Neat rig, maybe get a recording of the noise. Have you tried powering the fans from an external 12v source?
Changed some stuff up with my computer. I added a pcie wifi card that is red and matches my build and prepped the case for my arriving 980. I wanted to simplify my build a bit so I removed the rear intake and push/pull intake, then placed my h100i as a top exhaust in push with the fans. I planned to use Noctuas on the radiator but once I got them in I noticed a loud motor noise, after some tested I noticed all fans I plug into my CPU fan headers have this motor noise for some reason. The corsairs have less of it so I just went with those instead. I then moved the 140mm fans I had as exhaust and use them as an intake. Oh and a few months ago I drilled out the top right drive bay in the 350D.
Build blog - http://imgur.com/a/4B2DX
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V. sexy. That's a Corsair Obsidian Series 450D, right? I'm considering getting one of these cases for mine.
Thanks! It's actually the matx 350d, really recommended. Small form factor but lots of room to work in.
Thanks! I have not, when I plug them into a motherboard header though the buzz is gone. It's hardly noticeable buzz, I'd probably have a hard time even catching it on a recording. It's not audible from even 1" away. I'm guessing it has something to do with voltage, fan throttling, or bios monitoring when running it through either CPU header which adds the noise.
Can someone help me find a decent case and a motherboard for 200$ total? I'm not really into fancy cases just a good quality black one. I have the i5 3570k. I'm not sure which ones are good.
Question for you guys.
Put together my dads computer. It will run fine for like 10 minutes and then freeze, it's done this a few times. I tried to run a refresh through Windows 8.1 install disc and it said it there was a problem refreshing your PC. Nothing through the Windows 8.1 refresh/repair from the install disc are working.
Any ideas? It was fine for all the driver installations. I downloaded speedfan/cpuz and everything looked apporpriate. My only thought is something might be wrong w/ the SSD and I should just format the drive again and hope reinstall Windows.
Any ideas?
1. There is always something new coming. Always.So I have been kicking around upgrading for a while now. Currently have a very trusty core2quad gaming pc that I mostly built in 2007, but upgraded the video card in 2010, and bought a 120gb SSD a few weeks ago. It's getting to the point where there are DX11 games that just won't run (Evolve Beta), or I have compatibility issues due to using legacy 4890 drivers in Win 8.1 (Transistor).
The thing is, I'm generally against buying anything technology related mid-cycle. I'm mostly wondering how I should be considering processor/architecture lifecycles when it comes to buying new PC parts. I feel inclined just to wait it out if a new architecture is coming out in the next 6 months, though maybe I'm looking at this wrong. I understand that you could play the waiting game forever, and maybe I need to accept that I won't ever get the sort of extreme value again that my current PC has given me.
I understand intel will be potentially introducing Skylake as early as the middle of this year. Since I have no immediate need for a new PC, but would like to upgrade this year, would it be worth waiting? My PC is mostly used for gaming.
You should be able to use it, contrary to what everything says. You may need to give MS a call and get a second verification key, but it should work.How does Windows 8.1 key licenses work? I just installed a new motherboard/cpu (amd to intel) and I'm guessing I need a new activation key?
Probably the ram, dont ever bother with Windows repair.
Make a memtest86+ bootable USB an run it. See if it reports any RAM errors. Then if errors are reported test the RAM modules individually.
I've never actually ran it. I'm running memtest right now. How many passes do you go through before you think it's stable? Google tells me a lot of people use a lot of different #'s for being good.
I find that DOA Ram usually errors pretty fast, within an hour at most.
RAM incorrectly configured can take a lot longer to error.
Run for an hour atleast id say. And yeah some tests are better than others within it.
If you get no errors the next thing woul be the OS Drive, possibly a bad SSD, so here you can try a reinstall.
Exactly what software & drivers have been installed since fresh install?
Same speeds, buzzing is still there at all speeds on five fans I tested when plugged into either CPU header.
It cost me $120, w/ a $20 MIR on top of that. So, basically, I'd entertain looking at something a little higher end if I could get a comparable (or better) discount.
In theory, I can just wait for stock, but that could cost me that MIR and another $35 from other parts, so... yeah.
I'm building a video editing PC for my dad who just informed me that he's using our old PC from... 2008...
I have a budget of about $600 (excluding software licenses) and already have the hard drives figured out for storage.
There will be no gaming done on this PC, but adobe video editing software might benefit from discreet graphics?
This PC won't be upgraded for another 6 years, so I don't mind picking up outdated sockets.
What am I looking for in a build here? I'm assuming that this will definitely need a (150GB+) SSD for bluray authoring. This might also be a rare example where hyperthreading helps.
Is there any type of SSD test software like memtest? I'm feeling like it's the SSD and not the ram. First stick tested had 0 errors.
Hmm you can try using something like HDTune to check the SMART Statistics of the SSD.
Does the PC hard lock or BSOD?
Hard lock. I'm not familiar with HDTune. Let me google that.
edit: Downloaded it and got it installed after it froze twice on restarts, ugh. Running the error scan now. If this comes back clean, then it must be the mobo?
I liked this a lot more when I built PCs and everything just worked![]()
Very much doubt its the mobo. Sounds more like SSD so far to me to. I mean even if SMART stats show its ok, id go ahead and use a spare drive to rule it out.
Changed some stuff up with my computer. I added a pcie wifi card that is red and matches my build and prepped the case for my arriving 980. I wanted to simplify my build a bit so I removed the rear intake and push/pull intake, then placed my h100i as a top exhaust in push with the fans. I planned to use Noctuas on the radiator but once I got them in I noticed a loud motor noise, after some tested I noticed all fans I plug into my CPU fan headers have this motor noise for some reason. The corsairs have less of it so I just went with those instead. I then moved the 140mm fans I had as exhaust and use them as an intake. Oh and a few months ago I drilled out the top right drive bay in the 350D.
Build blog - http://imgur.com/a/4B2DX
![]()
Hi guys.
Is this a good deal for someone looking for ram?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0050119O0/ref=pe_160751_60460801_em_1p_0_ti
It's a good price and high speed. The exact same model is selling for £70 elsewhere, and out of stock.
Hi guys.
Is this a good deal for someone looking for ram?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0050119O0/ref=pe_160751_60460801_em_1p_0_ti
Save a few quid and grab this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00J8E91T0/ extra speed makes little difference.
Ok.
"machine_check_exception". Google tells me this is just a generic hardware error.
What does that mean?
In my case it was RAM.
CPU and RAM was OC'ed for nearly a year, everything was running fine, but over a month ago I had the machine check exception twice. Reduced my DDR frequency to 1600 and sharepened timings instead, working fine so far.
1333 CL 9 @ 1800 CL9 was probably too much.
Ok.
Just ran it for a little while with the different HD, no issues. Turned off, turned on and froze within 2 minutes with a hard lock. BUT, this time though, I got a BSOD about 5 seconds later? It had a "" so I assume this is the new BSOD. It also said:
"machine_check_exception". Google tells me this is just a generic hardware error.
What does that mean?
I feel like the ram has been ruled out, the fact that I've had had this with the new SSD and an old 7200 HD that it isn't the SSD/HD? So hard lock freezes is CPU/MOBO?
Use bsod viewer, double click the bsod entry and screenshot everything and post here
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
Do you have a sound card?
Any peripherals except m&k?
Anything extra on top of the basics to use windows?
Full specs?
Machine check exception can be CPU instability. Go into bios and load optimised defaults.
Ran the Intel Processor Diagnostic Tool. It passed, no issues.
It has to be the MOBO at this point, right?
Which cooler exactly?NoRéN;145884838 said:Anyone here with a corsair 200r case and a liquid cup cooler? Want to make sure about fit and compatibility.
well, i was gonna build my first pc but i've decided not go ahead with the purchase. just don't feel comfortable spending over £1000 on something I don't feel confident building. Maybe another time.
Ideally you will want to backup and reformat the old Windows drive, and that means reinstalling your programs.Complete novice upgrade question here:
I just got a small SSD which I will be installing in my desktop computer as my OS drive (running 8.1) once I get back to school. I intend to keep the old 1 TB hard drive running Windows 7 in the computer as the bulk storage drive. My question is this: since the SSD is running a different OS than is installed on the bulk drive, do I need to reinstall all my games and other programs on the bulk drive to be able to access them through the 8.1 OS?
Thanks.
Edit: It's compatible with a DH67BL mobo, right?
H60 or the H75. According to the Corsair site, they are compatible with the case but I wanted to see if anyone had any first hand experience with this combination of case and cooler.Which cooler exactly?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($131.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $181.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-03 13:48 EST-0500
The ASUS LK is my main choice in that price range but I could only see an open box one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ignorebbr=1&cm_re=Z77-_-13-131-837R-_-Product
the Extreme4 isn't a perfect board, ASRock told some lies around it, but it's still far from a bad board. A hyper 212 would be a good buy too. Would let you overclock the motherboard.
Edit - this Biostar board is also good http://www.outletpc.com/zu3768-bios...ontent=Biostar+-+Motherboards > Intel LGA1155
An H60 should be no bother to fit, plenty of forum posts on it from a quick Google.
The 2013 revision of the H60 made it a good little AIO too.