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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Optimus Lime

(L3) + (R3) | Spartan rage activated
Your CPU is fine and will be for the rest of this generation of games and then some. You just need to OC it.

I'd look into upgrading the video cards, but wait until AMD shows their hand.

That's what I'm thinking... now I just need to find an idiot's guide to overclocking and have a stiff drink...
 

LilJoka

Member
I took the advice in this thread regarding my attempt at OC. After nearly killing myself with a BIOS update, I was able to push the CPU to a modest 4.3. Anything higher results in a blue screen:



I would like to get to 4.5, any suggestions?

Try for 4.4Ghz first, give it an additional 0.05v than what you have in the BIOS for Vcore.

The bible for your setup is here, have a good read.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition
 

Ryne

Member
Increase vcore slightly. Are you using manual or offset mode?
Offset mode.
Try for 4.4Ghz first, give it an additional 0.05v than what you have in the BIOS for Vcore.

The bible for your setup is here, have a good read.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1198504/complete-overclocking-guide-sandy-bridge-ivy-bridge-asrock-edition
Yep, that is what I started looking at after your last post mostly went over my head. If I can get a stable 4.5 I'll be a happy camper.
 

LilJoka

Member
Offset mode.

Yep, that is what I started looking at after your last post mostly went over my head. If I can get a stable 4.5 I'll be a happy camper.

Your current OC is very reasonable, much better than your initial attempt, so good progress. If you read that page, youll get a grasp of what settings do and best way to tweak them. Combine all the tips and youll get a good overclock with minimal vcore hopefully.

Offset mode is a lot more tricky to get stable, so you may find going to a fixed vcore gives you more overclock headroom. The ideal OC uses offset though, that way the CPU speed and Vcore scale with CPU Load. Since you started with offset, just keep going that way for now. Afterwards if your curious try and see if you can push it more with a fixed vcore.
 

LilJoka

Member
Any thoughts?

Interference between different brands of powerline adaptor.

Ideally you have 1 brand of adaptors in the home. 1 connects to the Router. Then any powerline adaptors connected in other rooms all route to the single adaptor connected to the router.
 

Ryne

Member
Your current OC is very reasonable, much better than your initial attempt, so good progress. If you read that page, youll get a grasp of what settings do and best way to tweak them. Combine all the tips and youll get a good overclock with minimal vcore hopefully.

Offset mode is a lot more tricky to get stable, so you may find going to a fixed vcore gives you more overclock headroom. The ideal OC uses offset though, that way the CPU speed and Vcore scale with CPU Load. Since you started with offset, just keep going that way for now. Afterwards if your curious try and see if you can push it more with a fixed vcore.

Thanks for the input!

What should I push to get the higher OC? I put the offset to 0.010 and turbo to 0.008. Would changing the offset lead to better results? I keep crashing at 4.4 so I think If I get a stable 4.4 I'll stop.
 

Dwalls

Neo Member
So my silent pc build isn't as silent as I hoped. I messed up one single component and it's killing me. Through a process of elimination I've determined the stock fan on the coolermaster hyper 212 evo is a loud ass piece of shit even at 600 RPM. I never noticed on my previous system because everything in that was loud, but now that every component I have either isn't running a fan on idle or is running at super low rpms it's killing me. I know it's not the casefans because I can only hear those when I turn them on with the fan speed selector, I know it's not the psu or the graphics card because those fans stop when I'm idling, so I know it's the cpu fan. It's probably relative but it feels way too loud and I'm kind of dissapointed. Add to that the mounting brackets that are beyond terrible and I honestly can't recommend this cpu cooler to anyone anymore. What are some quiet ass aftermarket fans I can replace that thing with to fullfill my near silence dreams? It had some rubber stick on shit in the box that I didn't use because I didn't know where to place it, did I mess up and would that fix it or is it just a shitty fan?
 

knitoe

Member
Any thoughts?
Your powerline works through different circuits. Your friend's circuit may not have interference, but the one you are trying to use does seems so. Try a different power outlet which could be on a different circuit.

I tried powerline and ended use with major interference in my newly built house. In the end, I went going wifi, which was much faster, then drilled hole through the wall for a lan cable.
Thanks for the input!

What should I push to get the higher OC? I put the offset to 0.010 and turbo to 0.008. Would changing the offset lead to better results? I keep crashing at 4.4 so I think If I get a stable 4.4 I'll stop.
First, set voltage to manually and set a specific number. Find your stable voltage amount for X overclock speed. For example, it's stable at 1.35V for 4.4GHz. Then, use a offset number and test to get 1.35V while under load. Your can use HWinfo and Prime95 to test and monitor. If the offset number is less than you intended voltage, increase the number and vice versa until it matches your stable manual voltage number.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks for the input!

What should I push to get the higher OC? I put the offset to 0.010 and turbo to 0.008. Would changing the offset lead to better results? I keep crashing at 4.4 so I think If I get a stable 4.4 I'll stop.

More Vcore offset will help, this is the CPU Core Voltage, this is the most important voltage, generally more CPU Core Voltage will allow higher overclocks, at the cost of higher temperatures. The CPU will only scale to a certian point until each 100Mhz will require a larger bump in Vcore, this is generally referred to a overclock wall.

The point to stop overclocking is when you cannot increase Vcore anymore without the temperatures going way too high, like 75c+.
You may end up in a situation like this

4.3Ghz 1.28v 68c
4.4Ghz 1.32v 73c
4.5Ghz 1.37v 80c

Here 4.4Ghz would be the sweet spot and time to finalize the OC. You got to learn your chip first, here only VCore really matters, the rest of the optimization (voltage tweaks) can come afterwards (they tend not to allow more speed, but can mean the Vcore could be dropped a notch or 2 at most for the current speed).

So my silent pc build isn't as silent as I hoped. I messed up one single component and it's killing me. Through a process of elimination I've determined the stock fan on the coolermaster hyper 212 evo is a loud ass piece of shit even at 600 RPM. I never noticed on my previous system because everything in that was loud, but now that every component I have either isn't running a fan on idle or is running at super low rpms it's killing me. I know it's not the casefans because I can only hear those when I turn them on with the fan speed selector, I know it's not the psu or the graphics card because those fans stop when I'm idling, so I know it's the cpu fan. It's probably relative but it feels way too loud and I'm kind of dissapointed. Add to that the mounting brackets that are beyond terrible and I honestly can't recommend this cpu cooler to anyone anymore. What are some quiet ass aftermarket fans I can replace that thing with to fullfill my near silence dreams? It had some rubber stick on shit in the box that I didn't use because I didn't know where to place it, did I mess up and would that fix it or is it just a shitty fan?

Noctua is your best bet, expensive though. Im surprised though, ive got a few Hyper 212 Evos and im a silent freak, but dont have an issue with them.
 

Dwalls

Neo Member
Noctua is your best bet, expensive though. Im surprised though, ive got a few Hyper 212 Evos and im a silent freak, but dont have an issue with them.

I might be overstating the loudness but it still sticks out like a sore thumb in comparison to my other parts and I'd like to push the dB's down as far as I can. It probably doesn't help that I'm listening to it in the middle of a night in a room that's close to an anechoic chamber in terms of ambient noise. I"ll check out some Noctua fans though, if that doesn't work I'm willing to replace the entire cpu cooling system.
 

knitoe

Member
I might be overstating the loudness but it still sticks out like a sore thumb in comparison to my other parts and I'd like to push the dB's down as far as I can. It probably doesn't help that I'm listening to it in the middle of a night in a room that's close to an anechoic chamber in terms of ambient noise. I"ll check out some Noctua fans though, if that doesn't work I'm willing to replace the entire cpu cooling system.
The Noctua fans are quiet and offer great performance, but the colors are ugly. And, as I have stated before, the stock 212 fans are loud.
 

Ryne

Member
I went up to 1.45v to try and hit 4.4 ghz, and it still wasn't stable. Guess I missed out.

The temps really did not get that high though, all hovered around 60c
 

Chitown B

Member
I went up to 1.45v to try and hit 4.4 ghz, and it still wasn't stable. Guess I missed out.

The temps really did not get that high though, all hovered around 60c

I've been overclocking my A10-6800k (AMD, FM2 slot) lately.

It's base 4.1ghz, and unlocked. I have it at 4.7ghz and 1.45625 and it seems stable. Anything more and the system crashes or Steam crashes.
 

LilJoka

Member
I might be overstating the loudness but it still sticks out like a sore thumb in comparison to my other parts and I'd like to push the dB's down as far as I can. It probably doesn't help that I'm listening to it in the middle of a night in a room that's close to an anechoic chamber in terms of ambient noise. I"ll check out some Noctua fans though, if that doesn't work I'm willing to replace the entire cpu cooling system.

Just to check, you have reduced the CPU Fan speed to the lowest amount in BIOS and are using a CPU_FAN header?

I went up to 1.45v to try and hit 4.4 ghz, and it still wasn't stable. Guess I missed out.

The temps really did not get that high though, all hovered around 60c

Temps probably didnt go very high since most Prime95 worker threads error'ed out early so the CPU load didnt max out. If you use a stable clock speed like 4.2Ghz at high Vcore you will see how the Vcore causes temperatures to rise rapidly.

What is your RAM speed? Ram voltage and Ram timings?
 

Ryne

Member
I've been overclocking my A10-6800k (AMD, FM2 slot) lately.

It's base 4.1ghz, and unlocked. I have it at 4.7ghz and 1.45625 and it seems stable. Anything more and the system crashes or Steam crashes.

First time I tried myself, it's been a slightly annoying experience so far. However I've learned a lot so far!
 

Anustart

Member
Edit: Anyone know a way to install windows 8.1 to this new ssd? I just want to do it from my current windows installation. I have no disk drive on this computer so burning the iso is out. I could have sworn it was possible to convert the iso and do it that way, but I'm not finding it.
 

Ryne

Member
Temps probably didnt go very high since most Prime95 worker threads error'ed out early so the CPU load didnt max out. If you use a stable clock speed like 4.2Ghz at high Vcore you will see how the Vcore causes temperatures to rise rapidly.

What is your RAM speed? Ram voltage and Ram timings?

Ram speed is 1600, 1.5v and timings are 8-8-8-24.
 

AlanOC91

Member
Wow. So I've spent way too much money on my PC recently...

Purchased a second R9 290 (Sapphire Tri X) along with a new 1000 EVGA PSU to crossfire my setup.

Now I'm just after purchasing an ASUS PB287Q. In the back of my mind I feel like I may have jumped the gun a little but downsampled 4k benchmarks of games like Tomb Raider are looking very promising.

Does anyone have any personal experience with this monitor? Is it worth the money?
It should arrive sometime this week.
 

Dwalls

Neo Member
The Noctua fans are quiet and offer great performance, but the colors are ugly. And, as I have stated before, the stock 212 fans are loud.

I don't mind the colour scheme, my pc is a black box of quiet stashed in a corner of my room. The fan could be painted in a pink polkadot on green background colour and I wouldn't care. I guess I'll have a look at them.

Just to check, you have reduced the CPU Fan speed to the lowest amount in BIOS and are using a CPU_FAN header?

Yes, and yes. It spends most of its time at 600 rpm which seems to be the slowest it can go.
 

RGM79

Member
I put a CM hyper 212 evo in my new build today and the instructions don't even exist for 2011-v3. The backing plate isn't used, and I couldn't find any confirmation online, but temperatures are nice (low 30s) so I assume I've done it right.
Er.. for X99 you need to order a different backplate bracket for the Hyper 212 Evo. It only comes with a bracket for Intel sockets 775, 115X, 1366, and AMD.

That said, I wouldn't recommend a 212 Evo for X99 processors, the 140 watt TDP of Intel hexa and octo core processors is a bit too high for the Hyper 212 Evo, I'd say.

Like the others said, idle temperatures aren't important (unless they're really high), what you should find out are your load temperatures when playing games or running CPU intensive programs.

Edit: Anyone know a way to install windows 8.1 to this new ssd? I just want to do it from my current windows installation. I have no disk drive on this computer so burning the iso is out. I could have sworn it was possible to convert the iso and do it that way, but I'm not finding it.

You can't install Windows to another hard drive from within Windows. Do you have a USB drive? You can load the ISO to that to use as a Windows Installer.

http://www.howtogeek.com/178487/how-to-download-windows-8.x-and-create-a-bootable-dvd-usb-legally/
 

Ryne

Member
Thanks LilJoka, knitoe, and everyone who helped me, I think I can call my first OC a success. A modest 3.4 ghz to 4.4 ghz with my i7 2600k. Not sure if I have my patience to try any higher, ha

xJedlBT.jpg
 
Computer is up and running with Windows installed. Won't be able to do any stress testing until tomorrow. Don't want to leave it unsupervised. Gigabyte has a bunch of utility software on their site for the motherboard. Is any of it useful? http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5100&dl=1&RWD=0#utility

Bleh, the integrated GPU doesn't perform as well as I hoped it would. I figured it would be able to handle F.E.A.R. at max settings but alas.
 

RGM79

Member
Computer is up and running with Windows installed. Won't be able to do any stress testing until tomorrow. Don't want to leave it unsupervised. Gigabyte has a bunch of utility software on their site for the motherboard. Is any of it useful? http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5100&dl=1&RWD=0#utility

Bleh, the integrated GPU doesn't perform as well as I hoped it would. I figured it would be able to handle F.E.A.R. at max settings but alas.

A lot of it is pointless extras, stuff you don't even want. The only things I'd get are Intel Rapid Start Technology, On/Off Charge, and Live Update, most of which require the main APP Center utility.

F.E.A.R. 3? The HD4600 is a good improvement over older integrated graphics, but it's not that special.
 

Drpunch

Neo Member
Would like some thoughts on this build. Was made primarily from the OP and other recommendations but I'm pretty clueless as this is the first time I'm going to build a PC and buy parts separately.

[PCPartPicker part list](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/9yY6Lk) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/9yY6Lk/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k) | $368.32 @ TigerDirect Canada
**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060016ww) | $115.95 @ DirectCanada
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xud5h) | $209.95 @ Vuugo
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmz16gx3m2a2133c10) | $214.99 @ Memory Express
**Storage** | [Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct512mx100ssd1) | $209.99 @ Amazon Canada
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $62.95 @ Vuugo
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp42983kr) | $634.98 @ Newegg Canada
**Case** | [Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-case-phes614pbk) | $99.99 @ Amazon Canada
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs750amaag1s1) | $119.99 @ Newegg Canada
**Optical Drive** | [Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-drw24b1stblkbas) | $22.05 @ Vuugo
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-wn700615) | $109.99 @ Canada Computers
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2169.15
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-01 22:57 EST-0500 |

Will all this be compatible first of all and is there anything I should change/add? Will I need additional fans? I want to primarily game on this and have it last for a few years. I'm completely clueless, so any help or any resources (aside from whats in the OP) would be helpful. Thanks!
 

RGM79

Member
Would like some thoughts on this build. Was made primarily from the OP and other recommendations but I'm pretty clueless as this is the first time I'm going to build a PC and buy parts separately.

[PCPartPicker part list](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/9yY6Lk) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/9yY6Lk/by_merchant/)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i74790k) | $368.32 @ TigerDirect Canada
**CPU Cooler** | [Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060016ww) | $115.95 @ DirectCanada
**Motherboard** | [Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD5H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gaz97xud5h) | $209.95 @ Vuugo
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cmz16gx3m2a2133c10) | $214.99 @ Memory Express
**Storage** | [Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct512mx100ssd1) | $209.99 @ Amazon Canada
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $62.95 @ Vuugo
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-04gp42983kr) | $634.98 @ Newegg Canada
**Case** | [Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-case-phes614pbk) | $99.99 @ Amazon Canada
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs750amaag1s1) | $119.99 @ Newegg Canada
**Optical Drive** | [Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-drw24b1stblkbas) | $22.05 @ Vuugo
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit)](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-wn700615) | $109.99 @ Canada Computers
| | **Total**
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2169.15
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-01 22:57 EST-0500 |

Will all this be compatible first of all and is there anything I should change/add? Will I need additional fans? I want to primarily game on this and have it last for a few years. I'm completely clueless, so any help or any resources (aside from whats in the OP) would be helpful. Thanks!

I see quite a few places where you can save money and come out with little to no performance loss.

For purely games, the i5 4690K is preferred. You save about $100 and the only differences are 0.5GHz clock speed difference and the i7's hyperthreading, the 4690K and 4790K are both quad core processors and are very similar. Hyperthreading does not contribute to games very much when the processor is already a quad core, few games take advantage of extra processing threads, even for the foreseeable future. I'd only recommend the 4790K if you were doing other things that would take advantage of hyperthreading like video editing or 3D rendering. Single core performance is more important and the 4690K can overclock just as well as the 4790K, so the two processors perform nearly the same in most if not all games.

Spending that much on a cooler is a bit overkill. The Noctua NH-D14 ($90) or the Phanteks PH-TC14PE ($98) are great air coolers and will perform very well for your needs. Or if you only intend to do some moderate overclocking, there's the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($35) which is the price to performance king, letting many people overclock to about 4.5GHz.

You don't need to spend so much money on the motherboard, either. It's not as though more expensive motherboards are more reliable, they tend to come with extra features you may not actually need. For the majority of people, a motherboard under $150 (CAD) will do just fine, even for moderate overclocking. If you want reliability, there are certain motherboards marketed as having undergone testing to ensure that they work under stress well, like Gigabyte's black series.

Good call on the high speed RAM, but $214 is grossly overpriced. I substituted 16GB of G.Skill 2133MHz RAM instead for $150.

The GTX 980 is very expensive, but it is currently one of the best performing graphics cards you can buy, just not when it comes to price-to-performance ratio. If you want to stick with a GTX 980, I recommend this MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G ($629), it has a silent fan off running mode that I don't think the EVGA GTX 980 SC has.

Otherwise, if you can afford to wait, I think you may be better off waiting a few months. The R9 290/290X price drops haven't made their way from the US to Canada yet, and the R9 3xx line is expected to be released sometime in Q2 2015, which will provide more competition for the GTX 980.

The Phanteks Enthoo Pro is a very good case, but it is larger than most people will ever need. Still, $99 CAD is a good price when it costs $99 USD in the States. There are cheaper and/or smaller cases you could go with if you like. I like the Antec P100 ($79) myself, and I can also suggest the NZXT Source 210 Elite ($65).

That Cooler Master power supply is a good model, but also expensive. I assume you chose 750 watts either because you were following the guidelines or because you want to run dual graphics cards in the future. In that case, I recommend this XFX 750 watt model for $105. If you only intend to run a single graphics card, then you could go with a cheaper model like this Seasonic 620 watt model for $75.

You shouldn't need a DVD burner nowadays unless you have a specific need for it, seeing as how everything is delivered digitally now.

Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be purchased from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 USD or less, the sellers take paypal. These are fully working, unique Windows licenses from education programs like Technet or Dreamspark. Once you have the Windows key, you can easily get the official Windows installers from Microsoft. The downside is that you are dealing with persons selling the keys themselves, not Microsoft, so this is not an official or approved by Microsoft.

With my suggestions, you can save about $500.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($258.32 @ TigerDirect Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Memory Express)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($129.17 @ DirectCanada)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($155.89 @ DirectCanada)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($209.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.95 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB Twin Frozr Video Card ($629.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: XFX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($104.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $1651.25
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-02 01:12 EST-0500

Are you in the GVRD or GTA? You could pricematch many of these items from NCIX or Memory Express and save a little more, their policy is that they match and discount an additional 10% of the difference in price.
 

LilJoka

Member
Thanks LilJoka, knitoe, and everyone who helped me, I think I can call my first OC a success. A modest 3.4 ghz to 4.4 ghz with my i7 2600k. Not sure if I have my patience to try any higher, ha

Have you disabled CPU spread spectrum? I ask as the blck seems to be a little off 100Mhz, can usually be the spread spectrum adjusting it for EMC purposes. Can affect the OC Stability.

Otherwise good job that will last you a while now.

Computer is up and running with Windows installed. Won't be able to do any stress testing until tomorrow. Don't want to leave it unsupervised. Gigabyte has a bunch of utility software on their site for the motherboard. Is any of it useful? http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5100&dl=1&RWD=0#utility

Bleh, the integrated GPU doesn't perform as well as I hoped it would. I figured it would be able to handle F.E.A.R. at max settings but alas.

Do not install Gigabyte Utility software unless you absolutely require to.
 

H4r4kiri

Member
Hey,
what would you guys recommend for partitioning the HDD ? I got a 128gb SSD. How big should the OS Partition be ? Any tips ?
 

Rezae

Member
I know it's a small-time thing compared to most people, but I performed an upgrade on my PC for the first time in 5 years - replaced my 5770 with a 270x. I'm on a tight budget and truthfully I need a new CPU more than anything probably (Phenom II x3 435), but decided to do this "transitional" GPU upgrade before I save up for the bigger CPU/MB/SSD upgrade.

Even though my CPU is still a bottleneck in some things, it's crazy how nice of a bump I have in most games. Went from playing a lot of 1-3 year old games on medium and sometimes choppy FPS, to High with nearly all the bells and whistles and silky smooth framerates.
 

Dynoro

Member
Er.. for X99 you need to order a different backplate bracket for the Hyper 212 Evo. It only comes with a bracket for Intel sockets 775, 115X, 1366, and AMD.

That said, I wouldn't recommend a 212 Evo for X99 processors, the 140 watt TDP of Intel hexa and octo core processors is a bit too high for the Hyper 212 Evo, I'd say.

Like the others said, idle temperatures aren't important (unless they're really high), what you should find out are your load temperatures when playing games or running CPU intensive programs.
I better check when I get home. There's a mount around the CPU that the rest of the cooler screwed into, so I figured it was okay (definitely held firmly). I'm not sure how a backplate would work as there aren't any holes on the motherboard to get through to where the plate would be though.

I had checked the cooler for support beforehand at Coolermaster
 

nowarning

Member
Ok GAF, got an interesting networking problem that hopefully you guys can help with. So I don't have any ethernet outlets for my desktop, and I can't run an ethernet cable directly to the tower. So initially, I bought a WiFi Adapter that works well, but loses the connection every hour or so. So I bought a powerline adapter, and my roommate has one hooked up as well, and it works fine for him. But for some reason, my ethernet connection is drastically slower than my wireless connection.

snip

I have a similar setup at my house.

The router is on the ground floor and my PC is on the 3rd floor, using Wi-Fi I get about a 70Mb connection, but using 500Mb powerline plugs I get around a 10Mb connection.

I'm not sure about your house but distance, ring mains, interference on the line, the age of the wiring etc. come into play and have an effect. I've read mobile phone chargers can cause issues.

Mine is going quite a distance and it's an old house, so what I do is download on Wi-Fi, then if I'm going to play a game I will disable my Wi-Fi and use powerline adapters, they are still great for gaming online despite the low speed.

One of my friends I live with uses a pair also, same make but different model. We have no issues with them, mine is still slow with or without his plugged in. Hope some of that helps.
 

BasicMath

Member
I better check when I get home. There's a mount around the CPU that the rest of the cooler screwed into, so I figured it was okay (definitely held firmly). I'm not sure how a backplate would work as there aren't any holes on the motherboard to get through to where the plate would be though.

I had checked the cooler for support beforehand at Coolermaster
Yeah, x99 MOBOs already have a backplate installed. HSF solutions typically make use of it so you don't really need another.
 

Tabasco

Member
I ran a memtest overnight for nearly 7 hours and there hasn't been a single error with what looked like to be 5 tests.

It's basically safe to assume the RAM is fine, right?

I really hope the cause of the issues isn't the motherboard.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I better check when I get home. There's a mount around the CPU that the rest of the cooler screwed into, so I figured it was okay (definitely held firmly). I'm not sure how a backplate would work as there aren't any holes on the motherboard to get through to where the plate would be though.

I had checked the cooler for support beforehand at Coolermaster
Don't worry, it does support your socket. You can't even replace the backplate on 2011 as it is built into the motherboard.
 

RGM79

Member
I better check when I get home. There's a mount around the CPU that the rest of the cooler screwed into, so I figured it was okay (definitely held firmly). I'm not sure how a backplate would work as there aren't any holes on the motherboard to get through to where the plate would be though.

I had checked the cooler for support beforehand at Coolermaster

Don't worry, it does support your socket. You can't even replace the backplate on 2011 as it is built into the motherboard.

Yeah, x99 MOBOs already have a backplate installed. HSF solutions typically make use of it so you don't really need another.
Turns out I was totally wrong and mistaken, should have done the research. I've made a very stupid mistake in saying that. Disregard my "advice".
 

Ryne

Member
Have you disabled CPU spread spectrum? I ask as the blck seems to be a little off 100Mhz, can usually be the spread spectrum adjusting it for EMC purposes. Can affect the OC Stability.

Otherwise good job that will last you a while now.

Nope, I went ahead and looked in the bios, it appears I didn't disable it. I disabled it now.

Thanks again!
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
I'm looking to upgrade my 24" 1920x1200 monitor from back in 2008. It works fine, but I am really looking to get on board with a high-refresh rate monitor that has G-Sync.

Are the only real options available right now still just the Asus ROG Swift and Acer XB270H? Honestly, the 1920x1080 resolution of the Acer model doesn't bother me, but 27" is way too big for a 1080p monitor.

Anyone have any recommendations? When should we expect some of the models revealed at CES to go on sale?
 

reKon

Banned
I have ordered all the parts for my PC build (except for the video card). Just waiting on the CPU cooler to arrive. The ram, CPU cooler, case, and wireless keyboard were really free because I used Amazon gift card cash and I still have to get a rebate on the MOBO. I already own a 1 TB hard drive that I'll just move to this system. My future upgrade plans will be 1) Good GPU 2) More hard drive space as a need it 3) 1 TB good performance SSD after SSD prices drop to $150 or so that size:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $218.00)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $60.75)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $134.99)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $63.99)
Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (Purchased For $63.99)
Storage: Transcend SSD370 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $64.99)
Storage: Seagate 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($0.00)
Case: Silverstone ML07B HTPC Case (Purchased For $69.99)
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply (Purchased For $118.00)
Case Fan: Enermax UCTP12P 80.0 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $7.50)
Case Fan: Enermax UCTP12P 80.0 CFM 120mm Fan (Purchased For $7.50)
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad (Purchased For $19.99)
Total: $829.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-02 16:43 EST-0500


I'm 80% sure I'm going to buy the GTX 970 when the price falls bit in the future. Right now I just need a fast PC and I think the 4600 HD integrated graphics will still work well since this will be primarily for video streaming and internet browsing. I'm interested with doing some gaming on it with 16 GB ram just to see how it runs.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It will not run games well :(
I'm looking to upgrade my 24" 1920x1200 monitor from back in 2008. It works fine, but I am really looking to get on board with a high-refresh rate monitor that has G-Sync.

Are the only real options available right now still just the Asus ROG Swift and Acer XB270H? Honestly, the 1920x1080 resolution of the Acer model doesn't bother me, but 27" is way too big for a 1080p monitor.

Anyone have any recommendations? When should we expect some of the models revealed at CES to go on sale?
All the new ones were just announced at CES, and won't be out for a couple months.

There's a ton of different ones, from 2560x1440p IPS to ultrawide, all G-Sync, Freesync, or 120Hz+.

Just take a gander through the headlines here: http://www.blurbusters.com/
 

reKon

Banned
It will not run games well :(

All the new ones were just announced at CES, and won't be out for a couple months.

There's a ton of different ones, from 2560x1440p IPS to ultrawide, all G-Sync, Freesync, or 120Hz+.

Just take a gander through the headlines here: http://www.blurbusters.com/

I should have clarified. I'm talking abou source games like Left 4 Dead 2, Counter-Strike Go and such. It will be pretty awesome if it can actually run those at 1080P with decent settings relatively smoothly.

The only PC games I'm really going to care for are sports games, Starcraft II, RPGs (Witcher 3), and just maybe some battlefield if I feel like doing some high end FPS gaming. I'm in no rush to buy a GPU.
 
D

Deleted member 17706

Unconfirmed Member
It will not run games well :(

All the new ones were just announced at CES, and won't be out for a couple months.

There's a ton of different ones, from 2560x1440p IPS to ultrawide, all G-Sync, Freesync, or 120Hz+.

Just take a gander through the headlines here: http://www.blurbusters.com/

Very cool site. Hadn't seen it before.

On it, I discovered that BenQ had a cheaper G-Sync solution for a 24" 1080p monitor. The Amazon reviews indicate it's pretty good. I need to read some more reviews before making a decision, though.

Seems like it's a pretty solid monitor for the price ($550) and it even comes with built in HDMI and DVI ports in addition to DisplayPort.

As someone who really doesn't mind sticking to 1080p for a few more years, I think I may bite.
 

Jarsonot

Member
Hey y'all.

I've been thinking about building a rig, and now I'm thinking this is the year to do it.

I've read through a bit of the guides, and have gone to PCpartpicker to put a little something together... (in the U.S.)

I have a few questions. =)

Here's what I have so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core OEM/Tray Processor
CPU COOLER: Cooler Master Vortex Plus 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SOC FORCE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
RAM: G.Skill Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
SSD: A-Data Premier SP610 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
HD: Seagate Constellation ES.3 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card
CASE: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case
COOLING: no idea what I really need here
POWER SUPPLY: Antec 750W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply
OS: no idea, Windows, but what version?
SOUND: no idea really. not an audiophile, just need "good enough"

I'd like to build as future-proof of a rig as I can, for around $2000. Pretty much everything chosen up there is just me picking things I saw in the OP building guide. My understanding is GPU is most important, but I want to make sure I pick a MOBO, CPU, etc. that will withstand upgrading over the years, and I'd like to make sure everything's compatible and I'm not picking A) stupid things I don't need or B) cheap crap I'll regret.

Not too worried about a disc drive right now, figure I can always add one later if I decide I need one.

Looking at PCpartpicker, I still have yet to choose a Wired/wireless network adapter, a cooling system, and thermal compound.

I plan on using this mostly for games.

I appreciate any input, thank you!

EDIT: here's the PCpartpicker link:http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7MXsxr
 
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