DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Well the water cooler doesn't have you working around a giant piece of metal.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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Well the water cooler doesn't have you working around a giant piece of metal.
Femmeworth
Banned
My case has a PWM hub. Do I need to plug the cooler's fan into that?
This is in the case's manual.
The cooler's manual just shows the fan being plugged into an unlabeled connector.
This is in the case's manual.
The cooler's manual just shows the fan being plugged into an unlabeled connector.
The heatsink itself is the second last piece to go on, and the 212 Evo's X bracket is easy enough to put into place.
It also helps to have the motherboard out of the case when installing most coolers. For me, it wasn't so much the size of the heatsink getting in the way rather than the case preventing me from getting a good hold or angle on mounting the parts.
You shouldn't be controlling the CPU heatsink fan manually, let the motherboard do that. You can plug every other case fan into the hub to control intake and exhaust fan airflow/noise as you want. All motherboards will have one fan header labeled "CPU FAN" or similar. Not plugging a fan or pump into that usually means the motherboard will complain about there not being a CPU fan on startup.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
There should be a fan connection on your Motherboard specifically labeled "CPU_FAN" That's where you plug it in. The port is usually up there by the RAM or on the other side of the CPU mount.
The hub should just be used for your various case fans (Or plug your fans directly into the various "SYS_FAN" connections on your motherboard.
Femmeworth
Banned
Thanks guys. Another minor issue, the I/O shield tabs are being a pain in the ass.
Yep. CM coolers are hard to install compare to others. Especially when you don't want to mess up your perfect amount of thermal grease=P
Femmeworth
Banned
Ended up breaking off the I/O shield tabs. PSU is installed and now I face the daunting task of plugging in all the cables and organizing them.
Optimus Lime
(L3) + (R3) | Spartan rage activated
Hey guys,
I just wanted to drop in and ask for your opinion on an upgrade path. I'm currently running this build from 2012:
i7 3930k @ 3.20GHz
116gb DDR3 RAM
Rampage IV Formula
2x GTX670 SLI
I want to be ready for Witcher 3, and I want to be able to max out everything again - I've had to wind my settings down for a lot of stuff recently, which has pushed me towards the convenience of console gaming. I'd like to be able to supersample, be ready for 4K, and push framerates far above 60fps.
I guess my question is... I want to get either two 970's or 980's - is the CPU going to be a bottleneck? I don't want to upgrade my cards, just to find that the CPU is a problem - if it's going to be, I'd rather wait until later in the year and do the whole thing at once.
Any thoughts, advice, or abuse would be awesome.
I just wanted to drop in and ask for your opinion on an upgrade path. I'm currently running this build from 2012:
i7 3930k @ 3.20GHz
116gb DDR3 RAM
Rampage IV Formula
2x GTX670 SLI
I want to be ready for Witcher 3, and I want to be able to max out everything again - I've had to wind my settings down for a lot of stuff recently, which has pushed me towards the convenience of console gaming. I'd like to be able to supersample, be ready for 4K, and push framerates far above 60fps.
I guess my question is... I want to get either two 970's or 980's - is the CPU going to be a bottleneck? I don't want to upgrade my cards, just to find that the CPU is a problem - if it's going to be, I'd rather wait until later in the year and do the whole thing at once.
Any thoughts, advice, or abuse would be awesome.
longdi
Banned
TW3 is coming in 3-4 months later?
Yeah, wait for AMD new 380/390X cards to see how first.
980s are way overpriced for the performance gains over 780s gen cards, never mind how much marketing makes you think they are godsend.
980s imho are really x60Ti level cards selling for x80 prices, just because Nvidia can!
Optimus Lime
(L3) + (R3) | Spartan rage activated
What about the CPU/Mobo? Is that going to be a problem once I drop in a new set of cards?
Optimus Lime
(L3) + (R3) | Spartan rage activated
Cool, so my performance woes are from the 2 x 2gb 670's?
I wasn't sure whether it was the cards, a CPU bottleneck or both.
longdi
Banned
It is likely the 2gb bottleneck and the lower CPU clock speed. Get that up to 4.2-4.3ghz easily and no more CPU bottleneck.
I am playing just COH2 at 1600p with max everything at FXAA and vram averages at 3.4gb and maxes at 3.99gb on a 290X! /eek
670 are weaker than 7970/280X btw.
Femmeworth
Banned
It lives! The BIOS is overwhelming as fuck though. I'm really not sure what to do next. >_> I should get some sleep before figuring out my next move. From what I can tell, things are okay. One thing I did goof up on is I plugged the case fans into the wrong connector, the one for the optional CPU fan.
Prophet Steve
Member
You won't have to do anything in the BIOS unless you want to overclock now, which you won't before you installed Windows. There are some settings that could be useful, that might let the thing boot a little bit faster, but you'll probably only need it when you run into problems.
You can just try to install Windows. If it won't allow you to do that, then it is time to get into the BIOS and look at the boot order.
Femmeworth
Banned
Ah. I was thinking I'd have to set up the hard drive in the BIOS first.
Plus they look nicer. I found the 212 a pig to install each and every time I've done it.
H60 next time I need a new cooler.
Prophet Steve
Member
Likely it all works out of the box. I had a motherboard that by default was assuming you would have multiple hard drives in a raid-configuration and I needed to change that, but that is an exception.
You'll set up the drives during the Windows installation. And if it can't recognize the Windows disc or drive you are using, then you'll likely have to look at the boot order in the BIOS.
Prophet Steve
Member
That's fine, but first check what the temperature on load is.
Reading the Prime95 wiki, it suggests I should stress test over 24 hours. I just did one minute of testing and the temp popped up to 52~
There is a part of me thinking the temp should be lower, especially compared to some of the reviews I read about the heatsink I am using. I'll test it for 24 hours using stock settings to see if I need to re-apply the thermal paste or something.
For an OC anything under 80c under Prime95 is golden.
24 hours is imo excessive. I'd give it 15-20 mins when trying to find your best OC frequency. Once you've got it, give it an hour of Prime. If it can do that it's probably grand.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Even though I always run it for 24 hours, I can definitely say that 1 hour isn't enough to tell final stability. At least let it run overnight.
You need to tell us what CPU and Board and what settings you are changing and what you are changing them to in the BIOS.
You need some basic tools to help you.
CPUz - Monitor CPU Vcore whilst running Prime95 - This is the most important value, state this at all time when replying to us.
HWMonitor/Realtemp or similar for CPU Temperatures
For Haswell CPUs, Prime95 v28.x can easily overheat the CPU due to use of AVX2 tests. Best to use alternatives such as Aida64, Realbench, X264 Stress Test, Unigene Heaven for the final testing. Or Prime95 v27.9.
Yeah, I should have lead with that information in the first place.
i7 2600K on an Asrock Extreme3 Gen3. I have Prime95, Open Hardware Monitor and CPUZ running to give me information
I was trying to set the core voltage to 1.35v and the CPU multiplier to 45.
I tried using one of Asrock's prepackaged OC defaults, which put the multiplier at 44 which seems to be working for now.
Image of what I'm running now:
OK, what you need to do now is load up Prime95 Small FFT torture test. Monitor the CPU Vcore in CPUz. This will now be your start point. If temperatures are way too high, then subtract 0.1v from the reading.
Go back into BIOS an set the Vcore to the value you have recorded in CPUz. Look for the Load Line Calibration setting and enable it, or set it to a medium level. The load line calibration prevents the CPU Vcore from dropping whilst under load.
Now go back to Prime95, check the CPUz Vcore is close to or matches the value you were aiming for. Adjust till it is close/matches.
Now this will be the start point. Continue testing, if the temps at the Vcore are not very high (less than 70c) try to increase the CPU multiplier & Vcore and test for 10 min stability. Balance the speed, Vcore/Temps now to find an optimum speed vs vcore/temps that is realistic. A realistic point will be a Vcore that is giving decent temperatures in Small FFT Test and is able to pass 10minutes testing.
Now stability test to find the minimum Vcore required to maintain stability. Finally test for long periods (few hours or however you see fit) and adjust Vcore to stabilise.
Grinchy
Banned
I almost wish I had just bought all my parts from Amazon instead of splitting between it and Newegg. I just ordered Saturday morning and the Amazon parts will be here Monday. I have no idea when the rest of the parts from Newegg are coming. And of course I'm hyped as hell to put this baby together.
I can't wait to finally be able to run Minecraft! (jk)
I can't wait to finally be able to run Minecraft! (jk)
It may be because I've been spoiled by Amazon Prime, but I've always found Newegg's shipping to be slow. Seems that every step of the process takes an extra day or 2 compared to buying from other places.
Grinchy
Banned
I even volunteered to be one of the $2.99 Rush Processing suckers this time. And I selected 3 business day shipping ($15 extra). But their prices were better and I got a combo deal. It's hard to complain about a couple/few extra days of shipping, but I'm hyped dammit!
But yeah, I've always found their shipping to be rather slow.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
I'm looking at getting a 144hz monitor, if I wanted to utilize that, would it be better for me to go with a GTX 980 or can I get away with getting a 970? It's still going to be at 1080p.
Prophet Steve
Member
I am lazy and also run p95 for only an hour or so. I know I shouldn't, but I am lazy. Haven't had trouble with my CPU stability though. GPU overclocking seems to be a bigger problem for me.
You can use a 970, just don't expect to be able to run every game at the full refresh rate.
You can use a 970, just don't expect to be able to run every game at the full refresh rate.
Your CPU is fine and will be for the rest of this generation of games and then some. You just need to OC it.
I'd look into upgrading the video cards, but wait until AMD shows their hand.
I put a CM hyper 212 evo in my new build today and the instructions don't even exist for 2011-v3. The backing plate isn't used, and I couldn't find any confirmation online, but temperatures are nice (low 30s) so I assume I've done it right.
dang, 116GB RAM?
Grinchy
Banned
I know, that's going to be a huge bottleneck. Gonna need 2 or 3 times that much soon.
GurgleBot20
Member
I'm having trouble installing windows using the OP's guide below:
First using an iso I downloaded from the site provided, I get this error message:
"The Selected file is not a valid ISO file. Please select a valid ISO file and try again"
After looking a bit online, I converted it into a different ISO using IMGBurn, but now I get it 99% before it tells me if can't copy over. I tried the solution that uses diskpart, but that didn't work either.
First using an iso I downloaded from the site provided, I get this error message:
"The Selected file is not a valid ISO file. Please select a valid ISO file and try again"
After looking a bit online, I converted it into a different ISO using IMGBurn, but now I get it 99% before it tells me if can't copy over. I tried the solution that uses diskpart, but that didn't work either.
metareferential
Member
Guys I'll be building a htpc/nas combo that has to be low-power and small factor to go along my main gaming pc as a multimedia device.
I know it doesn't really fit into the topic since it isn't gaming-oriented, but still.
Budget is not really an issue, but I'd like something that can run silently maybe even 24/7 without affecting my electricity bill.
I was looking at some AMD's quad-core like the AMD 5350 and maybe a motherboard that can run without having a big desktop PSU.
Suggestions?
Is a chromebox a good alternative?
EDIT: 300/500 $ budget
I know it doesn't really fit into the topic since it isn't gaming-oriented, but still.
Budget is not really an issue, but I'd like something that can run silently maybe even 24/7 without affecting my electricity bill.
I was looking at some AMD's quad-core like the AMD 5350 and maybe a motherboard that can run without having a big desktop PSU.
Suggestions?
Is a chromebox a good alternative?
EDIT: 300/500 $ budget
It'd help if we knew what amount of money you're looking to spend. Your budget has a pretty big impact on what we would suggest.
metareferential
Member
Ok GAF, got an interesting networking problem that hopefully you guys can help with. So I don't have any ethernet outlets for my desktop, and I can't run an ethernet cable directly to the tower. So initially, I bought a WiFi Adapter that works well, but loses the connection every hour or so. So I bought a powerline adapter, and my roommate has one hooked up as well, and it works fine for him. But for some reason, my ethernet connection is drastically slower than my wireless connection.
Here's my wired speedtest connection:
And here's wireless:
Any ideas? I can provide ipconfig if needed but don't wanna have a giant post
Any thoughts?
Tabasco
Member
Have you contacted your ISP about this?
They should tell you some troubleshooting tips. Alternatively, you can try updating the drivers for your modem and router to see if that helps.
opticalmace
Member
Increase vcore slightly. Are you using manual or offset mode?
Optimus Lime
(L3) + (R3) | Spartan rage activated
In 2012, I was not messing around with my build!
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