"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Read this
http://www.overclock.net/t/1401976/the-gigabyte-z87-haswell-overclocking-oc-guide
You'll fin explanations to all the voltages and what they are for.
zyxwvu4321
Member
Got it. Thanks!
My friend wants to buy a PC for around $4-500 that can run WOW on or near Ultra max settings. How are these two options?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229362 <- Really interested in this one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227597
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883220688
Also are those upgrade-able?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229362 <- Really interested in this one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227597
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883220688
Also are those upgrade-able?
Generally we don't recommend pre-built computers in this thread. They are usually bad value and/or have nonsensical parts. Those machines you posted are pretty terrible if games are your priority and you want to upgrade in the future.
I'd recommend building something like the budget build in the opening post of this thread.
Hey all, I need help figuring out what's going on with my room/electrical system. My last PC fried from what I believe was static electricity. I don't know if its the carpet or the way the house is set up but I seem to generate more static electricity in this house (moved in 2 years ago) than anywhere else I've lived.
My new PC that I built a month ago is also reacting to the static electricity. For example, when I walked into the room and turned on a floor lamp that's connected to a DIFFERENT outlet than my desktop, I get a little shock when I touched the metal rod of the lamp. At the exact second that I did that, my computer woke up from sleep mode. I've also gotten a few curious reboots at random times, not sure if that's part of it.
The desktop is currently sitting on top of a wood cabinet that has 4 plastic wheels with metal connecting it to the cabinet while my keyboard, speakers, and mouse are sitting on a wooden desk positioned next to the cabinet. The PC is connected to a surger protector.
I'm really worried that I'm going to end up with another fried motherboard!
My new PC that I built a month ago is also reacting to the static electricity. For example, when I walked into the room and turned on a floor lamp that's connected to a DIFFERENT outlet than my desktop, I get a little shock when I touched the metal rod of the lamp. At the exact second that I did that, my computer woke up from sleep mode. I've also gotten a few curious reboots at random times, not sure if that's part of it.
The desktop is currently sitting on top of a wood cabinet that has 4 plastic wheels with metal connecting it to the cabinet while my keyboard, speakers, and mouse are sitting on a wooden desk positioned next to the cabinet. The PC is connected to a surger protector.
I'm really worried that I'm going to end up with another fried motherboard!
You should check the house wiring, sounds like something is not grounded properly, and that could be a danger to you not just your appliances. Surge protector may help somewhat, but it isnt the solution for you problem.
i've decided to just change the case and buy a DVD drive. despite reading all those links i just can't figure out how to make a bootable USB. doesn't make any sense to me but thanks for the help!
now i can't figure out how i will connect front panel ports to the motherboard (z97 gaming 5). i'm probably gonna get a corsair 200r now. same price as the NZXT S340. i know where the USB 3.0 ports go, i think i know where the power/restart/led pins go but cant figure out where the audio ports connect. i've tried downloading the motherboard manual and reading through it.
i'm so close to giving up on building this pc. since saturday i've been researching everything to do with building a pc and i mean for hours each day reading stuff and watching videos. maybe this is all just beyond me and i should stick with my ps4.
Look at page 1-24, under "JAUD1: Front Panel Audio Connector". The picture shows you with a red circle where the audio ports connect to the motherboard.
Try using Display Driver Uninstaller to remove all trace of old graphics drivers, then use the latest Nvidia graphics driver installer again.
I should have been clearer, I thought it is likely that it will. Intel P33/P43/P45 chipset motherboards released around the point when DDR3 was becoming mainstream could use either DDR2 or DDR3, depending on the model.
The problem is you can't do 144Hz over the version of HDMI that's built into mobo's.
ColonelSkills
Member
Hey GAF, need some thoughts.
I'm building a support machine in a mini-ITX form factor to go into my home theater setup and all that.
The device has four real purposes:
The case. (CM Elite 120)
The RAM (8 GBs of G.Skill Ripjaws I picked up on Black Friday)
The SSD (256GB 840 Evo, also a rad black friday deal.)
I'm out of pocket for that at around $180 or so. I was thinking for a PSU, getting a Corsair 430M.
(All video recordings will not be stored to the SSD. They will be pushed after completion to my NAS. Storage on deck for this guy is not a concern.)
My question is what do I need for a CPU and mobo for this. Keep in mind it needs to be mini-ITX.
My initial thought is let's go with an i3 4130. I am more familiar with Intel. I know this'll take care of purposes 1, 2, and 3 just fine. But will a dual core proc serve me well for the Steam decode AND the rebroadcast via something like OBS?
Should I go with an i5? Would I run into issues with the i3?
I am also far less familiar with AMD products, but would be open to such considerations if things like raw core count is important in this application and if someone has a suggestion for what socket and mobo to look at if not a flat out CPU recommendation from them.
I want to spend 250 dollars or less on the CPU and mobo combo, if I can get away with it. But the price concern is secondary. I'm trying to get the best bang for my buck here, and I legitimately don't know if I'm severely over/underballing what I need to accomplish the task and if my budget for those two components is realistic.
If anyone has a secondary streaming PC and could lend their thoughts, that'd be awesome.
Thanks.
I'm building a support machine in a mini-ITX form factor to go into my home theater setup and all that.
The device has four real purposes:
- HTPC. Will have a BR drive in it to take away the BR duties from the PS4. Vast majority of content is stored on my NAS. No real requirements for storage ON THE DEVICE really.
- Steam Client for in-home streaming. I have a powerful PC already, but it's in another location and I'd like to be able to use this small device as a client.
- Light Emulation. Whatever I can get away with on the hardware, really. Dolphin can do amazing things with little power these days, but if I have to stream that from the more capable PC, so be it.
- Video capture from consoles, and rebroadcast to hitbox/twitch/whatnot of both console and steam host computer output. At the same time, in some cases. (IE, decode the powerful PC stream, and then rebroadcast that video output.) . This is the most complicated task I can imagine it performing, and it's also where I'm at a loss for the power requirements I need.
The case. (CM Elite 120)
The RAM (8 GBs of G.Skill Ripjaws I picked up on Black Friday)
The SSD (256GB 840 Evo, also a rad black friday deal.)
I'm out of pocket for that at around $180 or so. I was thinking for a PSU, getting a Corsair 430M.
(All video recordings will not be stored to the SSD. They will be pushed after completion to my NAS. Storage on deck for this guy is not a concern.)
My question is what do I need for a CPU and mobo for this. Keep in mind it needs to be mini-ITX.
My initial thought is let's go with an i3 4130. I am more familiar with Intel. I know this'll take care of purposes 1, 2, and 3 just fine. But will a dual core proc serve me well for the Steam decode AND the rebroadcast via something like OBS?
Should I go with an i5? Would I run into issues with the i3?
I am also far less familiar with AMD products, but would be open to such considerations if things like raw core count is important in this application and if someone has a suggestion for what socket and mobo to look at if not a flat out CPU recommendation from them.
I want to spend 250 dollars or less on the CPU and mobo combo, if I can get away with it. But the price concern is secondary. I'm trying to get the best bang for my buck here, and I legitimately don't know if I'm severely over/underballing what I need to accomplish the task and if my budget for those two components is realistic.
If anyone has a secondary streaming PC and could lend their thoughts, that'd be awesome.
Thanks.
Hip Hop
Member
Even using the DVI D cable?
I got a new problem guys. Games make me restart my computer.
Tried Rise of Nations, froze in the intro.
CS GO freezes when I load level.
COD 4 almost let me get in a game, but it also froze.
So I'm assuming I can't play any games. Anyone know what I could try?
i5 3570k
HD 4000
8Gb RAM
I swear I was able to play games before I bought a GPU.
1080p.
Am I reading it right, it's not possible?
At least on my mobo, the only output for the integrated GPU is an HDMI port, and you can't get 144Hz @ 1080p using it. But maybe yours has dual link DVI or Displayport too?
With the games, maybe theres some sort of driver error? Just to clarify, you had a discrete GPU, took it out, and now the games won't run? I think there's some problem with the settings. Maybe uninstall them and reinstall.
Hip Hop
Member
Yeah, my motherboard has a dual link DVI cable. It just doesn't let me go beyond 60hz when I choose the refresh rate.
I uninstalled the HD4000 driver and it let me run the games now without it(with really bad performance).
I'm now installing the previous drivers too see if it makes a difference.
D
Deleted member 325805
Unconfirmed Member
HD Tune is showing lots of errors on my storage drive, I guess it's time to pull the trigger on that 500GB Samsung 840 Evo.
High temperatures doesn't mean it's dying, it probably just needs the heatsink and fan to be cleaned of dust.
Nostremitus
Member
Would a Blu Ray drive get too hot while watching videos to tape an SSD on top?
I have a CM Elite 130 with an Antec Khuler mounted in the front so there's only room for one 2.5 drive between it and the Mobo and the radiator blocks installation beneath the optical drive tray. As the Antec can only be installed as an exhaust, I mounted a 120mm fan on the side panel as an intake, so i can't mount a drive there. This basically leaves the top of the Blu Ray drive, or removing the smaller fan that's blowing across my motherboard and mounting it there.
Basically, I'm placing my storage drive(HDD) in the 2.5 slot between the mobo and AIO cooler, and am looking for a spot to mount my OS SSD.
Suggestions?
I have a CM Elite 130 with an Antec Khuler mounted in the front so there's only room for one 2.5 drive between it and the Mobo and the radiator blocks installation beneath the optical drive tray. As the Antec can only be installed as an exhaust, I mounted a 120mm fan on the side panel as an intake, so i can't mount a drive there. This basically leaves the top of the Blu Ray drive, or removing the smaller fan that's blowing across my motherboard and mounting it there.
Basically, I'm placing my storage drive(HDD) in the 2.5 slot between the mobo and AIO cooler, and am looking for a spot to mount my OS SSD.
Suggestions?
bearythebear
Member
So here's my issue:
I built a PC about 4 years ago with an i5-750 and 5850. The graphics card is making a weird clicking sounds whenever I play something (I think a bearing is loose or something). I feel like if I replace the card, I would also have to change the CPU, motherboard, and Power. At that point I might as well build a new PC. Nowadays I just play on a PS4, and use PC for DOTA, so I don't have a lot of motivation to build one right now.
Whats a good replacement GPU at a reasonable price that wouldn't require me to replace every component of my PC? I think I have 550W power.
I built a PC about 4 years ago with an i5-750 and 5850. The graphics card is making a weird clicking sounds whenever I play something (I think a bearing is loose or something). I feel like if I replace the card, I would also have to change the CPU, motherboard, and Power. At that point I might as well build a new PC. Nowadays I just play on a PS4, and use PC for DOTA, so I don't have a lot of motivation to build one right now.
Whats a good replacement GPU at a reasonable price that wouldn't require me to replace every component of my PC? I think I have 550W power.
Hi PC GAF. I just picked up a cheapy mobo from Fry's. It's the MSI Z87-GD65. Link to the MSI product page
It was only $29 bucks so I figure it probably sucks and from the OP it looks like the recommendation is to go with a Z97. I'm reading the product page and it looks like a lot of BS marketing crap, but I know pretty much nothing about PCs.
So my question is is the Z87 too old to be useful? Should I return it or should this be ok for a PC build?
It was only $29 bucks so I figure it probably sucks and from the OP it looks like the recommendation is to go with a Z97. I'm reading the product page and it looks like a lot of BS marketing crap, but I know pretty much nothing about PCs.
So my question is is the Z87 too old to be useful? Should I return it or should this be ok for a PC build?
Nostremitus
Member
...Did we move to a 2015 thread?
Depends what you wanna do with it. The newer Devils Canyon CPU's, the 4790s and 4690k, may not work with it, but the older regular Haswell CPU's, the 4770k and 4670k, will definitely work with it.
Budget?
The problem would be what CPU you use it with. It's an alright motherboard, but you would need a BIOS update to use it with the latest Intel CPUs.
Hi guys, I'm looking to give a late-life boost to my current PC, and quieten it in the same go. Currently have a 6950 (flashed to 6970) in a cheapo iCute case that has lasted for several PC builds now (this case goes way back to sli 7800GTs!) Relevant full specs: i5 2500k oc to 4ghz, 8gb RAM, Antec Neo 520w PSU, gaming 98% of the time on a 22" 1680x1050 monitor and very occasionally on a 140" 1080p projector. I'd rather 60fps to extra AA or higher res textures, if that changes your thoughts any.
The 6950 roars, with its single fan whenever it is under load - which is almost all of the time nowadays (even at 720p, Lords of The Fallen and Far Cry 4 make it scream.) So I'm looking to grab a new, quieter case and whack in a new GPU too. Budget is very small, as in smaller than just buying a PS4 or Xbone, so say ~$400AUD, but less is better.
From a cursory glance, it seems an R9 280 and something like the Fractal Design R4/5 would be the way to go.
Any other thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
The 6950 roars, with its single fan whenever it is under load - which is almost all of the time nowadays (even at 720p, Lords of The Fallen and Far Cry 4 make it scream.) So I'm looking to grab a new, quieter case and whack in a new GPU too. Budget is very small, as in smaller than just buying a PS4 or Xbone, so say ~$400AUD, but less is better.
From a cursory glance, it seems an R9 280 and something like the Fractal Design R4/5 would be the way to go.
Any other thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
Nostremitus
Member
Haha, if only! I recently resat and thermal pasted the fan and heat sink on the 6950, and also cleaned out the inside of the case. But alas, it's still noisier than I'd like and struggling to run games as nice as I'd like!
Thanks, though
Nostremitus
Member
Haha, if only! I recently resat and thermal pasted the fan and heat sink on the 6950, and also cleaned out the inside of the case. But alas, it's still noisier than I'd like and struggling to run games as nice as I'd like!
Thanks, though
LOL, yeah. It's the cheapest thing a person can do off the top. Some people go years without maintaining their PCs.
At that pricepoint, you may consider a 285 instead of the 280. The 280 looks stronger on paper, but the change from Tahiti to Tonga cores makes up the difference.
Some games it pulls ahead, other it doesn't. But on a few games (like Assassin's Creed IV) it outperforms the 280X.
Also, the 285 gets to use the new features in the Omega driver like VSR (downsampling) Only the 285, 290, 290X, and 295X2 get these features.
HolyBaikal
Banned
I put my 2500K computer into a new case again
And... it won't turn on. :<
It seemed to be okay.. and I was very gentle with it.
It doesn't give a "splash screen" or go into bios.
It uses an ASUS motherboard, and it was an expensive one that costed I think $200.
It gives me a 45 code error. I looked at some things and talked to people, and they said that the motherboard probably needs to be replaced...
And someone told me I should contact ASUS. So I'm going to do that soon. But I'm sad I might have lost my nice ASUS motherboard.
Could anyone please help me? Is there any way to test what might be wrong with my computer and save it so I don't have to replace the motherboard?
And... it won't turn on. :<
It seemed to be okay.. and I was very gentle with it.
It doesn't give a "splash screen" or go into bios.
It uses an ASUS motherboard, and it was an expensive one that costed I think $200.
It gives me a 45 code error. I looked at some things and talked to people, and they said that the motherboard probably needs to be replaced...
And someone told me I should contact ASUS. So I'm going to do that soon. But I'm sad I might have lost my nice ASUS motherboard.
Could anyone please help me? Is there any way to test what might be wrong with my computer and save it so I don't have to replace the motherboard?
Yeah the new features of the 285 make for a very compelling case, but unfortunately it looks like it's going to come in at too high of a price point (around $320, at least $80 more than a 280 on current prices) to be worthwhile for this mini upgrade. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. At this point I might just blow $50 on some new 120/140mm case fans, a new CPU cooler (still rocking the stock Intel!) and dealwithit.gif
Burgess_101
Member
Is the Western Digital 2TB desktop elements USB 3 external HDD any good? I really need more space on my PC and sadly I don't have any more SATA ports for an internal one.
Also if anybody has any German deals that would be appreciated, I'm from England and don't know the best places yet, the lowest price I've found is 83 with shipping.
Also if anybody has any German deals that would be appreciated, I'm from England and don't know the best places yet, the lowest price I've found is 83 with shipping.
Could be the case causing a short. Put the computer together outside of the case and see if it power on.
OminoMichelin
Member
So I finally decided to hook up my older 900p monitor along with the usual 1080p one, but I'm having some issues with eyefinity.
Basically, I can't figure out how to configure a different vertical resolution for the 2 of them. I only get 3 options in the configuration, so it either ends up being 900p (which looks horrible on the bigger monitor), or 1080p (which crops pixels vertically on the small one), or I get black bars which I cannot remove on the big monitor.
Is what I'm asking even possible with eyefinity? Couldn't find anything by googling,
Basically, I can't figure out how to configure a different vertical resolution for the 2 of them. I only get 3 options in the configuration, so it either ends up being 900p (which looks horrible on the bigger monitor), or 1080p (which crops pixels vertically on the small one), or I get black bars which I cannot remove on the big monitor.
Is what I'm asking even possible with eyefinity? Couldn't find anything by googling,
Reseat all parts and cables. Double check connections. From what I can tell from a short search, error 45 is likely related to hardware that failed to start up.
Here's a short article listing the main differences. Z87 isn't obsolete, it's just lacking some features that Z97 has. Performance-wise, Z87 is not inferior for graphical framerate or anything.
Instead of the Corsair CX430M for $45 after $10 rebate, you can get the Corsair CS550M for $40 after $20 rebate. It has higher capacity and is gold rated, as well as being semi-modular. Jonny Guru reviewed the CS550M favorably.
As for choice of CPU and motherboard, I can think of a few possible builds:
CPU: AMD A8-6600K 3.9GHz Quad-Core Processor ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+ Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $166.97
CPU: Intel Core i3-4360 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($129.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $212.97
CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($164.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $247.97
As for performance comparisons, let me refer to you some benchmarks that may be useful. I am mainly referring to the Handbrake and Cinebench scores:
A8-6600K (100W) VS A10-6800K (100W) - Handbrake and Cinebench performance near equal, A8-6600K is only $85 whereas the A10-6800K is $120, can't justify going with the A10. Same thing with the $140 A10-7850K, the 7850K puts up a slightly better fight than the 6800K but is too expensive for marginally better results. This is why I recommended the A8-6600K above.
Intel Core i3 4360 (54W) VS AMD A10-7850K (95W) - The i3 4360 has a decent sized lead over the top end AMD 7850K APU while using about half the wattage.
Intel Core i5 4570S VS A10-7850K - not the best comparison pr even very direct, but this i5 4570S should perform similarly to the i5 4440 I recommended you above. Here, the i5 has an even larger lead over the top end AMD 7850K APU.
I'd recommend going i3 or i5 for your purposes, due to better performance over what AMD can offer. That said.. I'm not sure whether the i3 will be adequate - the i5 probably will be. I have no experience concerning game streaming/broadcasting. I think the hardware you use to capture console video output will assist in processing, so for consoles video manipulating, the i3 system may be enough. The i5 build will meet your $250 budget, so it's worth considering.
I recently got a SSD and my other two HDDs have been spinning down frequently, they take 4 secs to spin up when I try to access them after a while. Is this normal?
I only have media and games on my other HDDs.
Is it bad for the HDDs to frequently spin up and down and should I force them to spin all day?
I only have media and games on my other HDDs.
Is it bad for the HDDs to frequently spin up and down and should I force them to spin all day?
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
You can do PCIe if you don't have native 6gb sata ports. M3z is selling some 840 Evo's for under 200 (500gb). Excellent deal to hop in on the SSD life.
You will need a sata power and sata CCC connector to your motherboards onboard sata port.
Do they work the same as normal SATA drives? Sure I've set one of those up before, checked my board and have 2x SATA 6gb, so just need the two cables and the SSD? (assume will have to balance in my case as they're all small?).
bearythebear
Member
Probably less than $200.
Hyper 212 if you don't plan to overclock or small overclock like 4.3Ghz.
Noctua D14 for big overclocks 4.8Ghz region.
It's exactly the same procedure as installing and setting up a HDD. Yes you just need SATA and SATA power cables. SATA power from the PSU and SATA cable to the motherboard SATA 6Gbps port.
Your case should have 2.5" mount points but if it doesn't it won't matter. SSDs are like flash drives they can be thrown anywhere in the case.
Thanks, I'm going for 4.5GHz on my i7, so the Hyper 212 should be sufficient?
Ah, excellent. Am I right in thinking the PSU normally has the power cables already? And never opened my case but balancing is all good (I remember the days I had no side on my PC and had HDD's/PSU/DVD/ writers hanging out the side).
It's very much on the edge, a good chip may be able to do it, but an average chip may need more voltage and produce more heat.
Imo get the D14. There might be some cheaper alternatives to the D14, where are you located?
Yes the PSU will have a power cable for the SSD, same cable for HDDs and DVDs.
Yeah don't need to balance a SSD as it's solid state, no moving parts.
It'll be easily sufficient.
Thanks. I'm in Canada and used PC Partpicker. The cheapest in stock is 89.99+8.39 CAD at newegg
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