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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Is the Mac on retina display?
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
What kind of display do you have at work? It may be that it is just that much better. There are imacs with 5K monitors.
Small thing that probably isn't going to fix the issue you're experiencing, but just check it in case:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-au/windows/make-text-easier-read-cleartype#1TC=windows-7
killertofu
Member
Yeah it's a 5k.
Still, this PC is also a Hackintosh and whenever I boot into that it just looks smoother. Am I just seeing things?
opticalmace
Member
There are some text rendering options in Windows that can affect things... but it's probably just being spoiled by the 5k display.
afreaknamedpete
Member
Just completed my first PC build and I did not expect it to take like 6 hours after trying to decipher the spartan instructions included with the motherboard and troubleshooting monitor issues. I have no idea how people do elegant cable management; the inside of the case looks like wire spaghetti and diarrhea. The I/Os are misalinged between my case and my motherboard, and all the power cords are at least a foot too long for no reason. Nothing's blowing up yet, and the fans are working, so I'm gonna tentatively not worry about it too much.
On the hand, I got a bunch of coupons from wine courtesy of Newegg. Feel free to PM if you want 100 bucks off 160 worth of suspicious wine from a shady website!
On the hand, I got a bunch of coupons from wine courtesy of Newegg. Feel free to PM if you want 100 bucks off 160 worth of suspicious wine from a shady website!
Pics?
Zip ties, Gorilla Glue Tape, quality PSU, quality case. Seriously though, get some good tape. Sometimes you need to keep cables down and there is no zip tie spot... tape!
I'll pass on the wine...
The IO being misaligned probably has to do with placement of the motherboard standoffs, the little brass things that prop up the motherboard. Occasionally it is possible that manufacturing tolerances and defects mean that certain fits can be slightly off, though..
Cable management inside a small case like the CM Elite 130 is difficult, you survived well for a first time builder, though. The smaller the case, the less room there is to stick cables around and have them done neatly, so without more planning and expenses, the Elite 130 is generally almost always a mess of spaghetti on the inside. If you don't mind, tying cables up and tucking them out of the way of airflow may help temperatures in the long run.
afreaknamedpete
Member
I'm too demoralized to open the case today, though I may try to realign stuff tomorrow. I have all the power cables in the top of the case, where the HDD enclosures sit. Though they're all spilling out every which way, so I'm worried the tension will erode the wire covering or damage the copper. So there's this big empty air filled cavity near the front of the case that should be good for air management though.
This is a common issue which is especially apparent when viewing things like high quality PDF proofs - OSX seems to handle raster and vector scaling a lot better than Windows regardless of software used.
I don't think there is a fix-all solution and is one of the reasons we advise clients to approve proofs on a Mac if possible.
Buy a better monitor
(You could try the Cleartype configuration tool, but no amount of software changes will look like 4 times the amount of pixels. If you had a 5k monitor on a PC and a standard monitor on a Mac the latter would look more aliased)
The Lamonster
Member
If I wanted to upgrade my GPU in a few years, would it be better to go SLI or replace the card with something modern? I realize it'd be cheaper to go SLI, but would I see more of an improvement by simply replacing the one card?
Only SLI / CF within a short timeframe. Better to replace if you plan to wait longer.
The Lamonster
Member
Depends on how good the SLI support is versus how much better the new single card is. Speaking in general, we don't recommend SLI/crossfire unless it's absolutely needed for reasons of reliability and ease of use. That isn't to say that SLI or crossfire is poorly supported today, just that multiple GPU performance is currently highly dependent on driver support and how the game is coded. DX12 may change that, but there are too many unknowns to be able to tell you definitely what to do 3 years from now.
The Lamonster
Member
Finally ready to build my first computer! Thanks to everyone for the advice on parts these last few weeks.
(not pictured: two Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans that are arriving later today)
The tools:
Just one question - should I lay down cardboard to build on? Is it a bad idea to build on that metal rim on the counter? This is my basement kitchen and easily the most well-lit place in my house. The counter height is perfect, too.
(not pictured: two Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans that are arriving later today)
The tools:
Just one question - should I lay down cardboard to build on? Is it a bad idea to build on that metal rim on the counter? This is my basement kitchen and easily the most well-lit place in my house. The counter height is perfect, too.
I usually build on top of the motherboard box until it's time to put it inside the case. It's perfectly fine.
If you are worried about damaging any components with static, you can plug your PSU into a power outlet and set it near your working area (switched off), then just touch the metal exterior of the PSU every so often.
If you are worried about damaging any components with static, you can plug your PSU into a power outlet and set it near your working area (switched off), then just touch the metal exterior of the PSU every so often.
The Lamonster
Member
So CPU->RAM->cooler->mobo in case? The Noctua is so big I almost want to get the motherboard in the case first so it doesn't make it too cumbersome...
cpu first, then ram, you might try to install some of the heatsink components too but it may be easier to install after the mobo is screwed into the case. your heatsink is pretty big and it may obstruct your ability to screw the mobo into the case if you put it on before it's inside. you'll have to use your judgement there.
I'm reading a lot of negative comments about the ASUS Z-170 A MOBO... Anyone have any experience with this? Or maybe recommend an alternative? I'm looking to get one possibly today since it was recommended in the OP, but not so sure now.
So i have finally decided to pull the trigger on a new PC build. I think the timing is good especially with black-friday coming up and the potential to get some good deals.
My primary use case for this PC will be gaming, web surfing and software development. I plan to install Windows 10 on one SSD and Linux Mint on the other.
Here is the machine:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($369.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($88.62 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($122.40 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1473.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-05 10:52 EST-0500
I decided to go for a small form factor and the Node 304 in my opinion is the best of the mini-itx cases. Unfortunately the 304 has a PSU requirement of max 160mm in length - less if you have modular cables. I found the silverstone strider to fit that requirement at 140mm in length, though i would appreciate any recommendations you folks have.
I live about 5 minutes from microcenter so I plan on buying the CPU+Motherboard from them, everything else would be dependent on who is cheapest between Newegg, Amazon and Microcenter.
My primary use case for this PC will be gaming, web surfing and software development. I plan to install Windows 10 on one SSD and Linux Mint on the other.
Here is the machine:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($369.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($154.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($88.62 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($122.40 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1473.63
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-05 10:52 EST-0500
I decided to go for a small form factor and the Node 304 in my opinion is the best of the mini-itx cases. Unfortunately the 304 has a PSU requirement of max 160mm in length - less if you have modular cables. I found the silverstone strider to fit that requirement at 140mm in length, though i would appreciate any recommendations you folks have.
I live about 5 minutes from microcenter so I plan on buying the CPU+Motherboard from them, everything else would be dependent on who is cheapest between Newegg, Amazon and Microcenter.
The Lamonster
Member
Newegg motherboard reviews are all over the place. That board is typically regarded as a fantastic value. 3/5 eggs on Newegg but 4/5 stars on Amazon. Personally I went for the next step up ($195) and ordered the Asus Z170-Pro which is a much newer board. No reviews for it yet though, so there's always a risk.
Micro Center will price match Newegg and Amazon. Although with Amazon you wouldn't have to pay any tax.
shadow2810
Member
In my case I found it's much easier to install the heatsink first. The noctua was so big that it covered up the fan connectors, so it was really difficuly to connect the fan to mobo after it's inside the case. Screwing was fine since my screwdriver was long enough.
The Lamonster
Member
hmmm thanks for the info. I do have a nice 6" magnetic screwdriver.
That is good to know. I do have $500 in amazon points though I'm not sure if i should use it now or keep growing it and use it for pascal in a years time.
Joe Shlabotnik
Banned
No issues with mine after a month but, you know, sample of one.
BobbyColtrane
Member
I have an HTPC that I want to get rid of, what is the best way of doing that?
Post on Craigslist or Ebay as a complete system? Or part it out? Anything else you guys would recommend?
Post on Craigslist or Ebay as a complete system? Or part it out? Anything else you guys would recommend?
opticalmace
Member
I'd try the gaf buy and sell. Parting out might net you some more money but will take more time. Depends on how modern it is. If it's recent stuff I would be more inclined to part it out (more $$). If it's older I'd just sell it all together, most likely.
What are the specs? Maybe you could sell it to a friend or family member at a discount.
I'm selling my Strix for a good price to a friend who can't afford to buy a new one and i'm currently considering the MSI 970 or the 970 G1. They are the same price on Amazon and both come with Assassin's Creed Syndicate, from what i've heard the MSI is quieter and the Gigabyte performs slightly better. Compared to my Asus both are slightly faster, which shouldn't be noticeable, but my main problem with the Strix is the annoying loud noise it produces when the fans kick in. Now the G1 produces a similar amount of noise, but i find it a bit quieter and the sound of it less annoying, while the MSI is way quieter than both. G1 is also slightly faster (it's pretty similar to a stock 980 iirc) and comes with a backplate, while the MSI doesn't have one. So basically
G1
+ fastest card of the bunch
+ Comes with a backplate
+ Better OC capabilities
- Louder than the MSI
- Seems to have throttling issues, at least when overclocked
- Longest card of the bunch (not really a problem in my Fractal R4)
MSI
+ Quieter than the G1
+ Smallest of the bunch
+ Amazing looking card (but who cares, it's in a case)
- Slightly slower than the G1
- Doesn't have a backplate
Price is not a factor because, like i said, they're exactly the same price. Which one do i buy gaf?
EDIT: They dropped the price for the EVGA 970 SSC ACX 2.0+, now it's the same as the other two. Is this better? Step-up possibility and better customer service would be nice.
G1
+ fastest card of the bunch
+ Comes with a backplate
+ Better OC capabilities
- Louder than the MSI
- Seems to have throttling issues, at least when overclocked
- Longest card of the bunch (not really a problem in my Fractal R4)
MSI
+ Quieter than the G1
+ Smallest of the bunch
+ Amazing looking card (but who cares, it's in a case)
- Slightly slower than the G1
- Doesn't have a backplate
Price is not a factor because, like i said, they're exactly the same price. Which one do i buy gaf?
EDIT: They dropped the price for the EVGA 970 SSC ACX 2.0+, now it's the same as the other two. Is this better? Step-up possibility and better customer service would be nice.
Lys Skygge
Member
So I notice the Intel i7 6700k keeps going up in price. Should I pull the trigger on it now at $369.99 or should I risk the price going up even more and wait and see if it comes down in the next week or two?
DOT DASH DOT
Member
Guys is it possible to output video from my Nvidia GPU HDMI, and audio from the Intergrated HDMI port? I need to split them.......
I don't see why not, have you tried it?
Possibly the integrated output will be disabled but maybe not, something to try if you can.
DOT DASH DOT
Member
No not yet, it was just to sound out the idea really, getting a 4KTV and my amp won't pass 4K60 with 422 or 444 chroma, so I'll have to bypass straight to the TV, but I still want uncompressed 5.1 audio through my amp.
I wonder if a powered hdmi splitter could do the job, the amp won't like the video on the signal but should still play the audio. What amp is it?
But I wouldn't rush to buy anything, definitely try it first. You may have an option in the bios to enable multi GPU output support. Make sure pcie GPU is set as primary however. If this works it'll be as simple as using extended displays with 1080p output on the onboard GPU and setting it as the default playback device.
What is the advantage of z170 vs the B150? I'm looking at 2 pcs from newegg to buy. I know for sure I'm replacing the power supply and ram already and plan on upgrading the video card in a few months anyway so between these 2 with that in mind is it ok to get:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=83-227-641
Or should I just spend the extra and get:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=83-227-623
I've already purchase 16gb 3000 ripjaws ram and a 750w power supply. The video card doesn't matter. Basically I just want a skylake chipset that will be good for gaming.
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=83-227-641
Or should I just spend the extra and get:
http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=83-227-623
I've already purchase 16gb 3000 ripjaws ram and a 750w power supply. The video card doesn't matter. Basically I just want a skylake chipset that will be good for gaming.
DOT DASH DOT
Member
I'm not sure tbh, I guess it's possible, but can't imagine a powered HDMI 2.0 splitter would be very cheap. It's a Sony STN-1040, it had a firmware update last year for one of the inputs to accept HDMI 2.0, but from what i remember it's only 4:2:0, which is a shame, but understandable. It's gonna be a case of trying it when I've got the TV, as my setup is pretty complicated. Cheers for the advice though.
It's not an Nvidia promotion, it has nothing to do with Nvidia. I highly doubt you can get a game that isn't listed under the promotion.
The chipset won't affect gaming performance directly. B150 has fewer features than Z170 and you mainly lose the ability to manually overclock the processor, among other things. See this chart for the differences.
Are you sure you want to buy a prebuilt PC just to upgrade it? Why not build your own and not have to waste money rebuying a different PSU and RAM?
The chipset won't affect gaming performance directly. B150 has fewer features than Z170 and you mainly lose the ability to manually overclock the processor, among other things. See this chart for the differences.
Are you sure you want to buy a prebuilt PC just to upgrade it? Why not build your own and not have to waste money rebuying a different PSU and RAM?
Thanks for the quick reply. I already have the psu and got a good deal on the ram. I'm just not confident enough to not screw anything up building it myself. I can do the assembly fine but after that I'm not sure what to do with bios. It's been like 6 years since I built my last one and had help with the final portion. Has that part gotten easier? I honestly don't remember what to do once it's assembled/before installing windows. Once I get the hardware assembled how easy is the set up nowadays and would I save that much in the long run?
I'm not worried about overclocking but it seems the B150 has more downsides than just that.
Damn.
The Lamonster
Member
Would having a second monitor decrease my fps in games? How exactly does that work? If I have one game running fullscreen on one monitor, does my mouse go over to the other monitor on windows desktop or something?
shadow2810
Member
I don't think so, or you can just simply disable the second monitor when playing game just in case. Also cursor won't go over to second monitor when in fullscreen mode.
The Lamonster
Member
Okay cool. Thanks
I plan on using this guide:
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_To_Assemble_A_Desktop_PC/Software
edit: this one is a little more concise: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/274745-31-step-step-guide-building
Hi guys, back in here for a quick question: I currently have my system set to IGP instead of my 960 because I was having stuttering issues within my rendering program. That is, trying to draw the frame buffer while attempting to GPU render at the same time was giving my system grief. Changing it to the IGP solved those issues.
However, since Fallout 4 comes out next week, do I need to move my VGA back to the video card or would leaving it on the IGP be okay?
However, since Fallout 4 comes out next week, do I need to move my VGA back to the video card or would leaving it on the IGP be okay?
No, a second monitor will not decrease your FPS unless you also have a game running on it as well. Running a second monitor displaying anything that isn't intensive (game graphics for example) is easy and the graphics card barely breaks a sweat. You can have a browser or video running on the second monitor and there won't be much of a performance impact, if at all. Whether your mouse freely moves to the other monitor or not depends on the game in question and the fullscreen graphics window setting. Usually setting a game to fullscreen will lock your mouse cursor to the monitor that the game is running fullscreen on. Setting borderless fullscreen can allow the mouse cursor to move to the other screen, but clicking on something on the non-game monitor may cause the game to minimize or at least lose focus.
Usually the default BIOS settings are fine and you don't have to change anything in there unless needed. BIOS settings can vary between motherboards, but it's not all that difficult. All you need to do is put the Windows install CD/USB in and press a certain key when your computer starts up, and the Windows installer will start. How much you save depends on which prebuilt PC you buy and how much the rest of your upgrade parts cost. It's almost certainly around $100~200 cheaper to buy and build a PC with the parts you want rather than buying a lower end PC and then upgrading it with the parts you do want. How much exactly depends on how much you're spending of course. Example here, that build is more or less equivalent to the $930 PC in terms of performance. Don't forget that you're also paying for the better power supply and RAM on top of how much the prebuilt PC costs.
Going off the Newegg specs, there doesn't seem to be any way to tell exactly what model of motherboard (or power supply) these prebuilt computers have. Given the fact that prebuilt computer sellers are usually trying to turn a profit, they're likely to be low end or cheap parts.. not always, though. It's impossible to say how reliable the parts they chose are if we don't know anything about them.
B150 loses some USB 3.0 ports and some capabilities, but it's often still already adequate enough for most end users. It's not that I wouldn't recommend B150 motherboards, but if you're worried about lesser performance, it's fine. Both computers have the same i5 6600K processor, both should function and perform nearly the same.
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