May as well wait for the 6820K at this point.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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May as well wait for the 6820K at this point.
I hope not either lol. The reason I tried to orient it that way was because it was the same way the 24-pin connector was oriented, with the tabs on the outside. And one of the 2 4-pin connectors only had rounded ends so there was no clear way to orient it. I feel like the motherboard is still semi-functional since the heat sink fan and front panel power/LED connectors seem to work fine. Any way to know its a motherboard problem for sure?
Any chance you can swap graphic cards into a friend's PC?
I use Macrium Reflect. The free version works very well. Here's a guide if you need one.
Depends in your budget, whether you will be overclocking or not, what parts you have, etc. Corsair, NZXT rank up high when considering high end models.
Yes, that is most definitely GPU or PSU. What PSU model and brand do you have? What are your system specs and do you overclock your CPU/GPU? Some models marked "500W" don't actually supply that much wattage.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Looking at building an ITX for a relative using the least expensive bang-for-buck cpu/gpu.
I know the unlocked anniversary pentiums were stellar budget performers, but with Skylake I'm wondering if there's a new top dog?
I know the unlocked anniversary pentiums were stellar budget performers, but with Skylake I'm wondering if there's a new top dog?
So far, there isn't a Skylake equivalent for the Pentium G3258. If you're on a budget, you will probably want to stick with Haswell because a socket 1150 motherboard and DDR3 RAM will be cheaper than going with Skylake which requires a socket 1151 motherboard and DDR4.
Depending on what games your relative may play, it may or may not be a good idea to go with the G3258. Even when overclocked, some games just don't handle well on a dual core processor. I don't play the Witcher 3 or GTAV on my Pentium system overclocked to 4.6GHz because it simply doesn't deliver a decent enough framerate, there are too many drops and juddering to be enjoyable. Other games like Fallout 4 are alright and perform quite well.
My mistake. GPU I bought is ASUS GF GTX980Ti 6144MB 384bit PCI-E STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5.
Your Current Specs: shitty 8 years old HP PC
Budget: beside the parts I bought that I listed below I really dont want to spend much more
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD,
Monitor Resolution: WQHD 2560x1440
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:- current AAA's on ULTRA would be nice?
Looking to reuse any parts?: no?
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline? : before christmans.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz s.2011
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler - will this be okay?
Motherboard: MSI X99S GAMING 9 AC s.2011.
GPU: ASUS GF GTX980Ti 6144MB 384bit PCI-E STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5.
Memory: DDR4 16 GB, 4x4 or 2x8 , which company???
Storage: 256 gb SSD and a 2TB WD, but which one should I choose?
Case: NZXT Source 340 Black Window
Power Supply: ??? dunno here. Will Seasonic G-550 be okay ?
Monitor: Asus 27 PG279Q LED ROG SWIFT DP 164Hz G-sync.
I live in Poland and after buying ALL the bloded parts I really do not want to spend a lot more now but if I'd have to, than I will.
Can you link us to any local retailers that you prefer to shop at? It's difficult for us to recommend parts without knowing how much they cost.
As for the parts you haven't purchased yet, we can give you general guidelines. Yes, the NH-D15 is more than okay. For X99, you should go with 4x4GB for quad channel mode. Company doesn't matter too much as the quality of the RAM is more or less equal among most companies. As long as they have a good warranty policy (most of them offer lifetime warranty) then it's fine. What SSD and HDD you choose should be based on cost. Generally Crucial and Samsung are recommended around here for SSDs, while Western Digital, Hitachi/HGST, and Toshiba are for HDDs. The Seasonic power supply will work, but for a i7 5820K and GTX 980 Ti that you may overclock in the future, we'd recommend a 650 watt or better power supply to be on the safe side and offer enough room for future use. Here's a list of power supply quality.
Nothing1016
Member
Found this build on PC Part Picker and it seems to be pretty good. Like I said earlier, this would be my first build, so does anyone have any recommendations on how to improve?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TK6vJx
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/TK6vJx
Thank you very much! Every part so far i bought on http://www.proline.pl and I kinda wanna stick to them. I'm open for suggestions.
Horse Armour
Member
Is there a way of installing USB drivers to a Windows install without actually booting into that install? It's just that the USB ports are not working since changing my motherboard so I was just wondering if it's possible to install the drivers for them whilst being inside my new Windows installation on my other hard drive where the USB ports are working fine.
Garrett Hawke
Member
Thanks for replying! Here's everything:
This is my PSU:
Nothing is overclocked. It also happens at random times, last night I played AC: Syndicate for over an hour with no issues and then just today I was in Chrome and Spotify for 10 minutes and it happened.
I went with a 6600k, but I have another question.
I am seeing rather high (or at least so I think) vcore under load. Up to 1.3v, according to both CPU-Z and HW Monitor running at stock frequencies.
There does not seem to be any consensus on whether this is an issue.
The way I understand it 1.35v is generally the limit, and many suggest that keeping it even lower (which puts me dangerously close to the brink).
However, some say that Skylake can take much higher voltages than prior processors, with some operating with a "safe limit" of 1.40v.
So my question is: What is the max "safe" voltage for an i5 6600k?
I am seeing rather high (or at least so I think) vcore under load. Up to 1.3v, according to both CPU-Z and HW Monitor running at stock frequencies.
There does not seem to be any consensus on whether this is an issue.
The way I understand it 1.35v is generally the limit, and many suggest that keeping it even lower (which puts me dangerously close to the brink).
However, some say that Skylake can take much higher voltages than prior processors, with some operating with a "safe limit" of 1.40v.
So my question is: What is the max "safe" voltage for an i5 6600k?
Yeah I do check logical increments and other tech sites but sound is not a big factor for most of them and I don't know much about it either. For example, the variance in price for CPU coolers completely baffles me. I assume the standard one that comes with the CPU is not enough to cool its own CPU which means everyone pays extra for a piece that they do not need. How hard it is to cool CPU anyways? I always assumed GPU was the bottleneck and if you have a powerful enough CPU it can reduce its clock speed and emit less heat.
opticalmace
Member
What's your current card?
So SSD sale prices are pretty much going to stay the same for the rest of the holiday season right? I don't really see any crazy Black Friday prices.
Also, would adding a third hard drive cause significant extra power consumption? I've been rolling on 550w for the last couple years with no problems.
Also, would adding a third hard drive cause significant extra power consumption? I've been rolling on 550w for the last couple years with no problems.
A 970.
Finaika
Member
I've upgraded from a 970 to a 980 Ti, no regrets.
I had the 970 for less than a week.
My 6700K went up to 1.392v with no overclocking, maybe its similar with the 6600K.
Yeah, there's some things that can be changed to optimize for cost. Here's my version of your build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($33.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Deepcool TESSERACT WH ATX Mid Tower Case ($25.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX TS 650W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $661.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-20 13:32 EST-0500
Overall the parts list costs a bit less. The differences are that the i5 4590 processor is actually slightly faster (~5%) and the XFX 650 watt power supply is a bit better.
Nope, not as far as I know. Are you unable to boot into the old Windows installation? Are both USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports not working on that installation?
Well, it doesn't seem to be a problem with your power supply being worked too hard. Playing a game is much more intensive on power consumption than just web browsing and music playing, so it doesn't look like wattage is the issue here. Have you ever gotten a black screen while playing games? Or does it only happen at other times?
The next time your PC's screen goes black, try seeing if it is still responsive. Check your keyboard's numlock and caps lock keys. If the LEDs still turn on and off when you press them, that means the PC is still responding and running fine but somehow stopped outputting a video signal, in which case the graphics card or graphics driver would appear to be the problem. If the numlock and caps lock lights are stuck and don't change when you press them, then that means your PC froze/crashed/stopped responding and it may be a symptom of some other issue that will be harder to narrow down and troubleshoot.
Garrett Hawke
Member
Thanks, I'll report next time it happens! PC's been on for a good 3 or 4 hours now and I played an hour of Syndicate with no issues. It seems really random and intermittent. Sometimes it's been while playing, sometimes it will be when the computer is doing literally nothing, other times it'll be normal use (Chrome + Photoshop, Chrome + Spotify, etc).
opticalmace
Member
I think you could justify it. That is a lot of pixels.
Horse Armour
Member
I can boot in but USB ports don't work so I'm unable to install anything as I can't use the mouse and keyboard. Is there not a way of copying the USB driver files over to the correct directory as I thought that that was essentially what the driver installation wizard would be doing?
These are the best priced parts I can find to match your intended parts list.
Generally speaking, the higher the voltage, the hotter the processor will run, and in theory this reduces the lifespan of the processor. Processor lifespan is measured in years (potentially tens of years) and I have yet to hear of a processor burning itself out except for those intentionally run into the ground. How safe it is will depend on your cooling setup, whether you care about having it run warm, and if you don't mind potentially reducing the lifespan.
Well, 1.35V is considered somewhat high but tolerable for several years, while 1.4V is the limit that most people would go for, even when overclocking. That said, processors can be expected to last for many years even when overclocked. In the end, it's up to your own expectations and what you'll be doing with the PC in the future.
The stock cooler is capable of cooling the CPU that it comes with. It's just that some of the stronger higher end processors can produce quite a lot of heat, so aftermarket heatsinks are popular for better cooling and reduced noise levels. Overclocking is another thing, that's even more heat so a better cooler will do well to lower temperatures and keep noise levels down.
Yeah, a powerful enough processor doesn't need to run at maximum clock speed all the time. Features like Intel's speedstep and speed shift change the processor's speed to balance heat, energy consumption, and processing power. That said, games will always be one of those things that can tax a processor to its limits (unless you're playing a very old game on a very high end processor).
No idea about prices, I really only keep tabs on certain models of Samsung and Crucial SSDs. As for power consumption with a third hard drive, you'll be absolutely fine unless whatever PC you have is already pushing your PSU to the limit. Even the noisy and fast WD Black hard drives draw around 10 watts of power.
Kenzodielocke
Banned
I am planning to buy a new complete PC early 2016. i5 4690k + 980 gtx or i7 4690k + 970 gtx ?
opticalmace
Member
Well, the 980 is not a good proposition in terms of value (at that point you might as well go 980 Ti). But don't decide now anyway, decide about a week or two before you build -- things change often.
And depending on when early 2016 is to you, it might be getting close to Pascal... we'll have to see.
It's more involved than that. You need to tell Windows which driver to use, either by pointing it directly to that file or letting Windows search for it. I don't know what version of Windows you have, but the process has been the same for the last several years.
When you boot into the other installation, does Windows try to search for drivers and fails, or does it not bother to search at all? If it's the former, then it is possible that if you were to copy the files to the partition containing the other Windows installation that it could discover them when it looks for them.
It's still a little hard to believe that even your mouse and keyboard don't work, though. Windows should have some default drivers for those, and Windows has native support for USB 2.0 built into itself. It might be time to copy what you can salvage from that installation of Windows and move on.
Kenzodielocke
Banned
Yeah, I think I should wait until I have the money ready. Planning with a budget of ~ 1100
Wowfunhappy
Member
In Windows 10, how am I supposed to pair my bluetooth mouse and keyboard, when my mouse and keyboard have't been paired yet?
It's a bit of an issue.
It's a bit of an issue.
awesomebro
Member
I finally figured out my woes. I think it was Windows 10. Downgraded to 8.1 and all my games run fine.
shindoku21
Member
Is 1440p overkill for a 970 (+i5 2500k and 8gb)? Looking to buy a second monitor. I haven't really experienced any of the nice features (144hz, 1440p, IPS/VA, Gsync), so Im having a hard time weighing out what features I would like and need. The only game I'll be playing competitively is SFV when it comes out next year. I play shooters occasionally but not competitively. I watch a lot of media and do some light photo/video editing. Wish I could actually try out some of these features before buying a monitor.
opticalmace
Member
I think it depends on the games you play. I have a 970 and 2500k and game on a 144Hz 1440p monitor and I am happy with the performance. But I don't usually play new releases, and I don't mind turning some settings down. My local computer shop has a 144Hz monitor on demo, maybe yours does too.
I would take a careful look at how demanding the games are that you wish to play to decide.
Nothing1016
Member
Thanks! Overall how well would games run on this build? Mostly just wanna play at 1080/60fps for now.
Super weird issue. I bought and plugged in a new GeForce 730 to an older Dell machine. Upon trying to boot, the computer posts, and the "Starting Windows" text appears for Windows 7...but the animation above it never appears, and it stays on that screen forever.
Could lack of drivers be causing this? I've never run into a problem like this before. Plz halp :-(
Could lack of drivers be causing this? I've never run into a problem like this before. Plz halp :-(
You don't need drivers to boot with a new GPU, Windows has default generic drivers.
What was the old GPU?
Should work quite well at highish to ultra settings, depending on the game. There aren't really any games that an i5 4590 wouldn't be able to handle. The R9 390 should be able to deliver 60FPS for most games, and that is a nice price. Otherwise you could also consider a GTX 970, it and the R9 390 are usually on par with each other although one would cost a bit more than the deal on that R9 390. Not to steer you toward Nvidia if you're set on AMD, but some of Eurogamer's Digital Foundry articles on PC game performance tend to recommend Nvidia graphics cards because they offer smoother performance in some games (not just average framerate, but how far they dip during intensive moments).
What graphics card is it exactly? And what Dell PC is it? It might be a weak power supply.
So my laptop might have a hardware failure. It constantly fails to recognize my gpu, so I'm probably going to have to send it in, but before I do, I was going to try a clean install. I'm on Windows 8.1, but since Windows 10 is ready to go, I was wondering if now is alright to upgrade. Is there anything I will be missing if I switch? Does anyone know if the wii u pro still works? Is DS4forWindows compatible yet?
GeForce GT 730 1GB GDDR5. It's a very small card and it's going into an old Dell XPS 420, and there was a card with similar draw in there before. It just seems like it's posting fine, and Windows won't load with it, which is super weird.
Nvidia 8800 GT (which is technically stronger maybe but it doesn't have the ports we need).
Safe mode boot doesn't work. Stuck on classpnp.sys.
Edit: there was also a Radeon 6450 HD in there at some point. Uninstalled those drivers.
FrenchMovieTheme
Member
i notice the small form factor post in the OP hasn't been updated in a bit. i kind of want to get a PC to just use on my tv (been saying this for a while!). should i just go with an alienware instead of building? seems that all the good deals on these cards recently wouldn't fit in a console-ish size box :/
opticalmace
Member
Try the gaf buy and sell. Or maybe craigslist.
I'm sure someone is selling a 970 on gaf, see what they are charging (or check ebay).
Depends. If you truly want console size, you'll have to look at something like a Silverstone RVZ02. Otherwise if you don't mind somewhat larger cases or different style, there's the Silverstone RVZ01, ML07, or cube style cases like Cooler Master Elite 120 and 130, or the Fractal Node 304. All of those examples fit graphics cards that are quite long (~300mm) but some of them only take dual slot graphics cards.
I deal with refurbished business class laptops at work. Can't speak for Lenovo, but the HP Elitebook and Dell Latitude E6xxx laptops I work on every day feel sturdy and reliable to me. I have a Latitude E6430s myself. Most failures I've seen are physical, I've maybe only come across one or two with a bad motherboard. Most of the computers I work on were donated by local corporations looking to recycle their old work laptops.
need some help deciding on a lga 1511 motherboard. I've torn between:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157633&cm_re=z170-_-13-157-633-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128841&cm_re=z170-_-13-128-841-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157633&cm_re=z170-_-13-157-633-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128841&cm_re=z170-_-13-128-841-_-Product
killertofu
Member
Are there any decent big 3.5 hard drive deals for Black Friday? I guess the bigger the storage the better, it's just for storing media
Unless you really want that redeemable code for AC Syndicate, go with the Gigabyte model. It has more reviews and a higher average score. The negative reviews for the ASRock model tend to have common complaints against the RAM compatibility, front panel headers, and one angry post about all of the rear panel ports being USB 3.0 (troublesome if you don't have the USB 3.0 drivers installed.
Giant Panda
Member
- Your Current Specs: 5 year old HP laptop
- Budget: $1000 USA
- Main Use: Gaming is the only intensive use I would use the PC for
- Monitor Resolution: 1080p monitor
- Specific games: Recent games like Witcher 3 at 1080p/60fps on medium or high
- Looking to reuse any parts?: No
- When will you build?: Hopefully within a few months
- Will you be overclocking?: No
My attempt came in a little over budget: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dNNCTW
However, I know very little about anything outside of CPUs and GPUs, and even then my knowledge is limited. Does the GPU brand matter for example on the GTX 970? Is DDR4 worth it over DDR3? Does it matter what configuration the RAM sticks are in (1x8GB vs 2x4GB)? I know nothing about motherboards or power supplies.
SunhiLegend
Member
I decided to upgrade my PC this year, looking for advice on what's the best processor + motherboard I can get within my price range. My budget is around £120, I can't really afford to go much over that limit. Doesn't have to be new, most PC parts I've brought have been refurbished or used.
Current build.
AMD Phenom II X4 955
ASUSTeK Computer INC. M4A87TD EVO (AM3)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 (MSI)
8.00GB DDR3 RAM
I've been using a 6870 the last few years, was able to run last gen games very high 1080p but it just couldn't run current gen at reasonable settings. I was given a 760 for real cheap which should last me the next few years at higher than console settings, just need a new processor, it's been almost 6 years since I brought the 955.
Current build.
AMD Phenom II X4 955
ASUSTeK Computer INC. M4A87TD EVO (AM3)
2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 (MSI)
8.00GB DDR3 RAM
I've been using a 6870 the last few years, was able to run last gen games very high 1080p but it just couldn't run current gen at reasonable settings. I was given a 760 for real cheap which should last me the next few years at higher than console settings, just need a new processor, it's been almost 6 years since I brought the 955.
Glass Shark
Banned
Our family is outgrowing our house, so it looks like I'm going to have to move the gaming PC from out of the office into the living room.
Any recommendations for a good wireless keyboard/trackpad combo thing? I pretty much exclusively play games with a gamepad these days, and Big Picture will work for almost everything I need, but I want something to be able to navigate the Windows interface when I need to.
Any recommendations for a good wireless keyboard/trackpad combo thing? I pretty much exclusively play games with a gamepad these days, and Big Picture will work for almost everything I need, but I want something to be able to navigate the Windows interface when I need to.
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