Big Green Anus
Member
Wait, really? I really hope this is not true since it's embarrassing if that's the case.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Wait, really? I really hope this is not true since it's embarrassing if that's the case.
Not exactly, but somewhat close.
"For the PS4 and Xbox One, Microsoft and Sony both opted for a semi-custom AMD APU — a 28nm part fabricated by TSMC that features an eight-core Jaguar CPU, paired with a Radeon 7000-series GPU. (We’ll discuss the GPU in the next section.) The PS4 and Xbox One CPU is virtually identical, except the Xbox One is clocked at 1.75GHz, while the PS4 is at 1.6GHz.
The Jaguar CPU core itself isn’t particularly exciting. In PCs, Jaguar is used in AMD’s Kabini and Temash parts, which were aimed at laptops and tablets respectively. If you’re looking for a tangible comparison, CPUs based on the Jaguar core are roughly comparable to Intel’s Bay Trail Atom. With eight cores (as opposed to two or four in a regular Kabini-Temash setup), both the PS4 and Xbox One will have quite a lot of CPU power on tap."
The Jaguar CPU core itself isn’t particularly exciting. In PCs, Jaguar is used in AMD’s Kabini and Temash parts, which were aimed at laptops and tablets respectively. If you’re looking for a tangible comparison, CPUs based on the Jaguar core are roughly comparable to Intel’s Bay Trail Atom. With eight cores (as opposed to two or four in a regular Kabini-Temash setup), both the PS4 and Xbox One will have quite a lot of CPU power on tap."
I have an Asus X102BA Windows 8 netbook with a dual core Temash processor. Brand new out of the box, the performance was agonizingly slow and barely acceptable. Then again, that's two cores at 1.2GHz compared to 8 cores at 1.6~1.75GHz, so don't take what I just said as a fair comparison.
There are some tablets with very high end processors that would be considered stronger in terms of architecture, like Intel's Bay/Cherry Trail processors. It's hard to make a valid comparison, though. There's also Intel's low TDP Broadwell/Skylake Y model processors that should also be a better architecture for overall performance, maybe.
A safe thing to say would be that on a per-core basis, the IPC of the consoles' Jaguar core is not very impressive.
Okay managed to update the BIOS and... It's actually made it worse. I seriously don't know what to do. We've exhausted every option. Surely it must be the hardware?
Sorry bud, here you go
InWIN 503 MID TOWER GAMING CASE (WHITE)
Intel® Corei7 Quad Core Processor i7-6700 (3.4GHz) 8MB Cache
ASUS® Z170 PRO GAMING: ATX, LG1151, USB 3.1, SATA 6GBs
16GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2133MHz (2 x 8GB)
4GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 970 - DVI, HDMI, mDP - 3D Vision Ready
120GB HyperX SAVAGE SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (upto 560MB/sR | 360MB/sW)
1TB WD BLACK WD1003FZEX, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64MB CACHE (7200rpm)
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
Corsair H55 Hydro Series High Performance CPU Cooler
1x 120mm Black Case Fan (configured to extract from rear/roof)
Most of those parts aren't really known for being quiet. There's not much you can do beyond trying to set fan speeds as low as possible besides replacing some of the parts. What are temperatures like? You can use a program like HWMonitor to show you what temperatures all of the different parts are reporting.
Ah okay, its pretty loud tbh I expected it to kick in when gaming or rendering but its a pain in the arse. Tempretures seem fine, I will get screen shots up if you like.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Any ideas of what could be the culprit when it wont detect the CPU (that LED light that blinks in the mobo) after one crash?
awesomebro
Member
Okay someone please help me out before I break something. I have an i5 4460, 16GB 1866Mhz RAM and an R9 390 I downloaded GTAV and God it runs like shit. What I'm I doing wrong? I have an Acer H236HL connected via displayport.
Go ahead if you like. Any other issues with your new PC?
Specs? The error is definitely related to CPU? I wouldn't know exactly what the issue could be with so little information, but you may want to reseat the CPU.
We need more info than that. What settings are you playing on? Have you tried lower settings? I assume you're on the latest drivers for your R9 390?
How is it running, exactly? Low framerate? Stuttering? Instability and/or crashing?
industrian
will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
Okay, so I finally have a pcie wifi card. But it doesn't seem to fit.
It's as though the slot is too far forward, but I can't figure out why that would be. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
Have you tried putting it in another slot?
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
MSI z170 mortar
i5 6600K
Cryorig h7
G Skill ddr4 2400 2x8GB
(and a R9 390, but we are not testing with it installed)
This is my brother's new built, he just replaced the mobo with a new one that arrived today of the same model. He installed windows last week and then realized that DIMMs1 and 2 didn't work, today he put it back together again and it booted and loaded windows again since it was still on his SSD; then it crashed after a couple of minutes and now it wont post and there is a LED light that blinks in the mobo saying that it is CPU related.
We just reseated the CPU and checked for bent pins and found nothing. Right now we removed the battery and were planning on checking it after some hours just to make sure it had drained completely.
awesomebro
Member
It's stuttering with low frame rates (<30) on the lowest settings. I have the latest drivers for the R9 390.
Defective CPUs are pretty rare, but not totally impossible. That said, the last time you posted about his computer it seemed clear that the RAM slots were broken. It could be a bad motherboard again for all we know.
Sorry for the non-helpful comment, but the motherboard and CPU can be difficult to diagnose. Usually the only way is to swap out for alternative parts that are known to work.
Hmm, I wonder if your PC is overheating or not. Run the game with MSI Afterburner or GPU-Z in the background with the monitoring graphs open to keep track of your graphics card usage and temperatures. HWMonitor can help keep track of similar stats for the rest of your PC, but the free version doesn't do graphs.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
What re my alternatives if a jumper didn't come with the mobo?
My brother gave me his 7970 after he bought a 980 ti, so I just plugged it in beside my 7970 and am giving crossfire a go for the first time. It seems his GPU is overheating like crazy though, I guess they might need more spacing, but I really don't have room. (Although... why is it his card that's overheating when it's on the bottom? GPU fans suck air in right?)
DOT DASH DOT
Member
Could someone do me a favour and just explain how Riva Tuner works.....just by setting the frame rate counter for RT to work, does that completely override any FPS options selected in a game? For instance if v sync was engaged in game, how does that affect RT? Does RT use v sync when trying to keep a frame rate?
Possibly but its really hard to troubleshoot hardware in this case. You could try contacting the motherboard manufacturer, you really shouldnt be having these kind of issues.
Also you can try older BIOS versions.
You can use a flathead screwdriver to bridge the two pins temporarily.
Has the graphics card been cleaned of dust? Does the 7970 still overheat by itself? Have you checked to see the fan speed or whether the fans are obstructed or not spinning freely?
I'm not totally clear, but Rivatuner's framerate cap is not the same as vsync. Many people report that the framerate is a lot more consistent and stable than vsync. I would think that it overrides any game setting because I think rivatuner hooks into the graphics card driver, but I'm unsure and it may vary from game to game.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Thanks, will see leaving it all night draining will do anything
Just remove the battery and short the contacts in the battery holder with a screwdriver, the capacitors will drain within a minute.
Alright I checked your other post. Should I uninstall the USB 3.0 driver and the GPU driver? However, I don't know how I'll stress the system enough without my GPU to test the latency.
Static Jak
Member
Planning on a new build soon but picking out a motherboard is harder than I thought it would be this time round. All I'm really looking for is a reliable board with some potential overclocking in the future.
I've only used ASUS before but I wouldn't mind trying out MSI or Gigabyte too.
I've only used ASUS before but I wouldn't mind trying out MSI or Gigabyte too.
Jimnymebob
Member
Quick question:
Amazon UK are having a sale on for an ASUS computer with an i5 3.4GHz, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GeForce GTX745 (4G DDR3) later on today, and I was wondering if it'd be any good depending on the price it drops to.
I'm more bothered about frame rate than running everything on max settings, but how would this perform compared to current gen consoles? Could it match them thereabouts and keep 60fps?
Amazon UK are having a sale on for an ASUS computer with an i5 3.4GHz, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GeForce GTX745 (4G DDR3) later on today, and I was wondering if it'd be any good depending on the price it drops to.
I'm more bothered about frame rate than running everything on max settings, but how would this perform compared to current gen consoles? Could it match them thereabouts and keep 60fps?
So my current copy of win 8.1 is an enterprise license and therefore not eligible for the free upgrade. It was from my work since I did quite a bit of working from home and vpn'd in with my home computer.
However I no longer work there so I bought a retail copy of win 10. It's been a long time since I bought windows myself. Real cool how they do it now with a flash drive instead of DVD and a little card with the key on it. Very slick.
Anyways, since mine isn't one of the downloaded upgrade versions, should I do the clean install or is it safe to just upgrade the OS? I Usually do a clean install for new versions but I literally just did it 8 months ago from 7 to 8.1 and it sounds like the upgrade process is pretty good now?
Thoughts? Safe to upgrade or just stop being lazy and do a clean install?
However I no longer work there so I bought a retail copy of win 10. It's been a long time since I bought windows myself. Real cool how they do it now with a flash drive instead of DVD and a little card with the key on it. Very slick.
Anyways, since mine isn't one of the downloaded upgrade versions, should I do the clean install or is it safe to just upgrade the OS? I Usually do a clean install for new versions but I literally just did it 8 months ago from 7 to 8.1 and it sounds like the upgrade process is pretty good now?
Thoughts? Safe to upgrade or just stop being lazy and do a clean install?
opticalmace
Member
I did an upgrade and it seemed to go fine. If you run into issues you could always then do a clean install.
I did an upgrade and it seemed to go fine. If you run into issues you could always then do a clean install.
I like the way you think.
In retrospect it wouldn't be too bad this time. I have a 512 SSD that I use for my OS drive with most everythint else on a separatw drive. So no shuffling too much around this time. Just reinstalling some stuff.
What country are you in, and what's your budget? Z170? X99? Z97? What size are you looking for? What are the rest of your PC's potential specs?
drotahorror
Member
Just had a stupid moment.
Took my computer outside to dust it out with my electric duster. I was a bit rough carrying it in as I almost lost my grip on it trying to carry it back through the front door.
Plugged everything back up, pressed power button, nothing. Tooled around with the inside of it looking at where the case power button wires and all that stuff runs into the motherboard, everything looked cool.
Then I seen the PSU power button on the back which I don't think I've ever pressed before. It was in the O position. I quickly googled what the O and i position mean (confused me even though I've seen them a hundred times). Switched to the 'i', power's on!
I was happy.
Took my computer outside to dust it out with my electric duster. I was a bit rough carrying it in as I almost lost my grip on it trying to carry it back through the front door.
Plugged everything back up, pressed power button, nothing. Tooled around with the inside of it looking at where the case power button wires and all that stuff runs into the motherboard, everything looked cool.
Then I seen the PSU power button on the back which I don't think I've ever pressed before. It was in the O position. I quickly googled what the O and i position mean (confused me even though I've seen them a hundred times). Switched to the 'i', power's on!
I was happy.
Static Jak
Member
Ireland.
Around 700-800.
Z170 to go with a 6600k and probably 16GB ram. ATX.
Already have a GTX 970, Samsung SSD, and everything else. Just looking for a new CPU, RAM and Motherboard.
The Lamonster
Member
WD Blacks are supposed to be loud, right?
I have a brand new 3TB HDD and it's occasionally pretty noisy. Almost like the near-death clicks that are associated with a failing disc, which makes me nervous.
I have a brand new 3TB HDD and it's occasionally pretty noisy. Almost like the near-death clicks that are associated with a failing disc, which makes me nervous.
I have a 7200RPM Caviar Black and I can confirm it is loud indeed, like very loud.
But boy they are fast, by HDD standards. Games like Dying Light or Mad Max load very quickly and no late assets loading.
Crucial BX100 2.5" 250GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD). 5 STAR Top SSD on Amazon($85). 5 Eggs #1 seller on Newegg($85).
**Selling for $63 brand new and sealed, including shipping.
980 Reviews With 5 Stars
PayPal Gift or Buyer Pays Fees
Lower 48 States
Toss me a PM
Sold
The Lamonster
Member
ok phew, thanks! It's definitely a sexy beast.
If you are unsure, download softwares like HD Tune or CrystalDisk Info, they will tell you if your HDD is dying.
The Lamonster
Member
ok thanks, will do. I didn't realize this kind of thing existed.
Dutch Microwave
Member
I bought a new case (431 elite plus) and MSI 970 gtx 4g today,so had to pick the whole pc apart
After rebuilding it,turning it on,everything seems to work fine but I'm getting a long continuous beep which according to my Z68AP-D3 (rev 2) manual is supposed to represent badly connected GPU,but display works just fine(at least i got to win 7 login screen every time without random rebooting or anything),both 8 and 6 pin PSU cables are connected as well so cant be power issue either.(got a CTG600-80p psu)
Tried taking out RAMs but no luck with that either.
Any idea whats causing the beeping?
After rebuilding it,turning it on,everything seems to work fine but I'm getting a long continuous beep which according to my Z68AP-D3 (rev 2) manual is supposed to represent badly connected GPU,but display works just fine(at least i got to win 7 login screen every time without random rebooting or anything),both 8 and 6 pin PSU cables are connected as well so cant be power issue either.(got a CTG600-80p psu)
Tried taking out RAMs but no luck with that either.
Any idea whats causing the beeping?
Word of warning :
https://forum-en.msi.com/faq/article/printer/power-requirements-for-graphics-cards
I would not trust your PSU at all, never cheap out on the PSU, never, ever.
Go for reliable brands such as Seasonic, Antec, BeQuiet or EVGA among others.
I would suspect your PSU is not up to snuff. Don't rely on the output only.
Dutch Microwave
Member
Word of warning :
https://forum-en.msi.com/faq/article/printer/power-requirements-for-graphics-cards
I would not trust your PSU at all, never cheap out on the PSU, never, ever.
Go for reliable brands such as Seasonic, Antec, BeQuiet or EVGA among others.
I would suspect your PSU is not up to snuff. Don't rely on the output only.
NOOOO
I only checked for watts requirement yeah
As for the current psu,it had good reviews back when I bought it like 3 or 4 years ago but looks like its not enough anymore
Fuck I totally didnt need this additonal cost right now
Thanks anyway! I probably wouldnt have figured it out soon,at least I know the problem I guess
LegionAgent
Member
Guys, I need help urgently. I just installed a HyperX 8gb ram, for which I had to remove my motherboard. I unplugged all the cables and once it was done I just plugged it all again. The problem is, my pc isn't working anymore, specifically the GPU. It's fan starts spinning for 5 or 10 seconds and the stops, but the pc keeps running, with no signal on the monitor. I reinstalled the GPU twice and checked if the pins were correctly plugged, yet the problem persists. I have to do some important things for college, so I would really appreciate the help. My components are:
Motherboard: Gigabyte h61m-s1
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570k
Ram: kingston 4gb and kingston hyperx 8gb
GPU: MSI GTX 960 4GB
PSU: Corsair CX600M bronze
Motherboard: Gigabyte h61m-s1
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570k
Ram: kingston 4gb and kingston hyperx 8gb
GPU: MSI GTX 960 4GB
PSU: Corsair CX600M bronze
LegionAgent
Member
Sorry for the double post but it's not just my GPU, my entire PC stops after a couple of seconds. Maybe the HyperX is at fault? it should be compatible with my motherboard so I dont know whats happening
Have you tried reinstalling the old RAM to see if it makes a difference?
If all that's changed is the case and GPU, try putting your old GPU back in to see if it makes a difference.
LegionAgent
Member
I did, and it solved the problem....partially. It appears that the HyperX was the reason my PC was not booting up correctly, but even after going back to my old ram my GPU would not work correctly. Again, I reinstalled it a couple of times and check the pins where correctly plugged, but the problem persisted. My GPU has the letters "MSI" lighten up with white light each time the PC is on, and this are lighten up, but just as I said before, the fans run for a while and then stop, and the monitors does not display image at all.
I took my GPU out and connected my monitor to the mother board vga output, now the PC is working.
I seriously don't understand what happened. I get that the HyperX was not compatible, but why did my GPU just stopped working all of a sudden? I've had it for 2 months and a half, haven't overclocked or anything, much less tried SLI. Help please.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
we decided to just return both the CPU and the motherboard again simply because we have no way of telling at the moment which is it.
But this would be a second time for MSI z170 mortar, so if you are planning on getting one, my two cents are that you may want to think twice about it.
But this would be a second time for MSI z170 mortar, so if you are planning on getting one, my two cents are that you may want to think twice about it.
OK, so I put together this list. I plan to pull the trigger around Black Friday / Cyber Monday - just in case some ridiculous deal shows up.
I asked earlier about the MSI Z170 PC Mate, and while it seemed decent for its very low price, the lack of reviews scared me a bit. Plus the ASUS seems to just be of better quality.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($253.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($158.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $839.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-18 19:13 EST-0500
Some notes:
This will be replacing an almost 6 year old AMD Phenom II X4 build, so I will be reusing some parts.
- Case
- OCZ Modstream Pro 700W ATX power supply
- EVGA Nvidia GTX 960 4GB
- WD 1TB HDD - I still have over 400GB free on this and that's with a bunch of games sitting on there that I can delete, so I'm thinking the SSD will probably be the only storage I need.
The 960 was bought earlier this year to give my old machine a bit more life. I got it for well under $200 due to some gift cards and it has served its purpose admirably. I just finished Witcher 3 and it did pretty well. So I have decided to hold off until the next round of graphic cards are released before I upgrade it. I game at 1080P so it should do well for a while yet - even better in a Skylake system than an old AMD system.
I keep on flipping between this ASUS motherboard and similar offerings from Gigabyte, AZRock, and MSI. I think I'm overthinking it? I have always heard people speak well of ASUS in the motherboard space.
Any feedback is appreciated.
I asked earlier about the MSI Z170 PC Mate, and while it seemed decent for its very low price, the lack of reviews scared me a bit. Plus the ASUS seems to just be of better quality.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($253.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($158.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($52.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $839.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-18 19:13 EST-0500
Some notes:
This will be replacing an almost 6 year old AMD Phenom II X4 build, so I will be reusing some parts.
- Case
- OCZ Modstream Pro 700W ATX power supply
- EVGA Nvidia GTX 960 4GB
- WD 1TB HDD - I still have over 400GB free on this and that's with a bunch of games sitting on there that I can delete, so I'm thinking the SSD will probably be the only storage I need.
The 960 was bought earlier this year to give my old machine a bit more life. I got it for well under $200 due to some gift cards and it has served its purpose admirably. I just finished Witcher 3 and it did pretty well. So I have decided to hold off until the next round of graphic cards are released before I upgrade it. I game at 1080P so it should do well for a while yet - even better in a Skylake system than an old AMD system.
I keep on flipping between this ASUS motherboard and similar offerings from Gigabyte, AZRock, and MSI. I think I'm overthinking it? I have always heard people speak well of ASUS in the motherboard space.
Any feedback is appreciated.
OtakuReborn124
Neo Member
So it's about time for me to upgrade my PC, since Fallout 4's minimum specs have officially eclipsed my PC from 2011.
My question isn't actually about what to use for the new PC (since I'm waiting for 2016 to see new offerings from AMD). I actually would like to repurpose my existing desktop as a faux Steambox for my living room and with that, I'm looking into working with one of the smaller cases. My existing PC is using a Phenom II X6 1090T and a Radeon HD6870. I've looked at some cases and motherboards, but it seems that MicroATX is about as small as AM3 motherboards go, and I've never worked with MicroATX before.
I looked at a few cases and was wondering if anybody had any experience with either Fractal Design or Corsair for cases, since they kind of fit the image I was thinking about for the living room PC, specifically, this from Fractal Design and this from Corsair. In addition to that, is there anything I should know about assembling a microATX box that is different from a regular mid tower ATX or things I should be wary of. Finally, recommendations of some good AM3 microATX motherboards would also be helpful.
My question isn't actually about what to use for the new PC (since I'm waiting for 2016 to see new offerings from AMD). I actually would like to repurpose my existing desktop as a faux Steambox for my living room and with that, I'm looking into working with one of the smaller cases. My existing PC is using a Phenom II X6 1090T and a Radeon HD6870. I've looked at some cases and motherboards, but it seems that MicroATX is about as small as AM3 motherboards go, and I've never worked with MicroATX before.
I looked at a few cases and was wondering if anybody had any experience with either Fractal Design or Corsair for cases, since they kind of fit the image I was thinking about for the living room PC, specifically, this from Fractal Design and this from Corsair. In addition to that, is there anything I should know about assembling a microATX box that is different from a regular mid tower ATX or things I should be wary of. Finally, recommendations of some good AM3 microATX motherboards would also be helpful.
Wow, came here to ask the same question.
I'm in the same spot, but not so much left handed and I don't palm grip much.
I've narrowed it down to the Logitech G502 or the Deathadder. Don't need a ton of bells and whistles, but people who have tried both, which feels better?
adamantypants
Member
Dumb question, but I have to ask. Did you reinsert all power pins? I want to say most 960s need a 6+2 pin or 2x 6pin connectors.
As far as the RAM, if it fit in the slot, it should be compatible. Could just be a lemon.
If you're already not filling up an HDD, do you think you'd really need an SSD that large? You could save literally hundreds of dollars by getting a 512gb or even a 256gb SSD. Personally I would go for something like a 512gb SSD and put some of that cash into more RAM (I like the headroom, you don't need 16gb, yet).
industrian
will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
I have a 2TB WD Black and it's the loudest thing in my computer. It's normal. I think every user review on Newegg lists the noise as a negative.
I thought of that, but since I'm already over the 500GB on my 1 TB HD, I figured I would just spring for it. I don't want to deal with having some of my stuff on an SSD and others on my HDD if I don't have to. I'm lazy.
Also, lately my current system has been locking up and after a hard reboot, I get a "Disk read error occurred. Press CTRL-ALT-DEL to restart." before the Windows boot process. This message persists when I reboot until I open the case, unplug the SATA from the drive and plug it back in. After that the system boots up and functions more or less normally for a while (days or weeks) until the error occurs again and I have to go through that hassle again. Disk Management says the drive is healthy but something is definitely up.
I don't know if that is the drive or the motherboard failing. I'm guessing the drive. So I'd rather just shift everything over rather than depend on it even as a secondary drive.
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