LegionAgent
Member
I did. Reinstalled and replugged all connectors like 5 times. I'm running out of ideas.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I did. Reinstalled and replugged all connectors like 5 times. I'm running out of ideas.
Might be a grounding issue? You mentioned taking the mobo out and putting it back in. If the motherboard isn't properly mounted it could cause a grounding issue.
LegionAgent
Member
Well, I'm using my PC as of now, is just the GPU that's not working, was working fine until I took the motherboard out to install the HyperX, that's when it all went down. Now that I took the HyperX out everything's just running smoothly, except for the GPU. Might try your suggestion later, thanks.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Do you have other cards to test if the PCI-e ports are working?
---
edit: shm, I never did test if it was a grounding issue with the case in my brothers PC. That could also cause it to not detect the CPU, right?
Wanted to get some opinions on an SSD. I currently have a Sandisk 120GB one that I picked up at Best Buy. It's been fine, but it's obviously a bit small, so I'm looking to upgrade.
Newegg has this Mushkin 1TB one on sale for $250, and I was wondering if anyone has any opinions on it, or Mushkin SSDs in general?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6596&cm_re=mushkin_1tb-_-20-226-596-_-Product
Newegg has this Mushkin 1TB one on sale for $250, and I was wondering if anyone has any opinions on it, or Mushkin SSDs in general?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...6596&cm_re=mushkin_1tb-_-20-226-596-_-Product
LegionAgent
Member
Sadly, I don't
LegionAgent
Member
Sorry double post again.
Can you guys tell me if my problem with the new RAM is becasue of compatibility or if it's because the RAM has problems? I have a Gigabyte h61m-s1 motherboard and the RAM in question is de Kingston HyperX Fury 8GB 1333MHz DDR3 CL9 DIMM.
Can you guys tell me if my problem with the new RAM is becasue of compatibility or if it's because the RAM has problems? I have a Gigabyte h61m-s1 motherboard and the RAM in question is de Kingston HyperX Fury 8GB 1333MHz DDR3 CL9 DIMM.
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm
Is my current psu good enough for a 980Ti hybrid?
Is my current psu good enough for a 980Ti hybrid?
Hawk269
Member
Hey all. I was wondering if anyone is using a Nvidia GPU with a TV Set/4k set and what settings you are using for the video output?
I have my Xbox One, PS4, Xbox 360 and PC hooked up to my Denon Receiver, which all feeds into my HDMI 2 Input on my Panasonic 4k TV Set. The 3 gaming systems are set to Limited for the video output and my gamma/colors/black level are excellent. But my PC, which is also on Limited seems very dark in all games/desktop etc. Color and such look great on consoles and PC, but just seems like the PC is overly dark.
So just curious if those with a Nvidia card and using a TV, what do you have your settings in the Video Output Settings in the NV Control panel?
Thanks for any help guys/gals.
I have my Xbox One, PS4, Xbox 360 and PC hooked up to my Denon Receiver, which all feeds into my HDMI 2 Input on my Panasonic 4k TV Set. The 3 gaming systems are set to Limited for the video output and my gamma/colors/black level are excellent. But my PC, which is also on Limited seems very dark in all games/desktop etc. Color and such look great on consoles and PC, but just seems like the PC is overly dark.
So just curious if those with a Nvidia card and using a TV, what do you have your settings in the Video Output Settings in the NV Control panel?
Thanks for any help guys/gals.
Yes. Normally I'd say with a 550W just be careful if you plan a max overclock of both the CPU and GPU and have multiple drives. But then again this is Seasonic who doesn't have trouble running at 90%+ of rated Watts like some other brands.
You can try that.
You could even try removing all unnecessary parts for example:
Remove the WLAN PCIE Card
Remove the GPU and use nbaord GPU
Remove all HDDs except the boot disk
Remove all USB peripherals except mouse and keyboard (You can remove them once DPC Latency is open)
Check the latency now.
You can leave the PC idle to test latency, you dont need to stress it, thats what LatencyMon is for.
I already bought the bolded ones but I seriously dunno what to do when it comes to other parts. So much changed in PC parts department since I last bought a PC for myself and I'm getting more and more confused.
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz s.2011
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler - will this be okay?
Motherboard: MSI X99S GAMING 9 AC s.2011.
GPU: ASUS GF GTX980Ti 6144MB 384bit PCI-E STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5.
Memory: DDR4 16 GB, 4x4 or 2x8 , which company???
Storage: 256 gb SSD and a 2TB WD, but which one should I choose?
Case: NZXT Source 340 Black Window
Power Supply: ??? dunno here. Will Seasonic G-550 be okay ?
Monitor: Asus 27 PG279Q LED ROG SWIFT DP 164Hz G-sync.
I appreciate all the help I can get here.
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz s.2011
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler - will this be okay?
Motherboard: MSI X99S GAMING 9 AC s.2011.
GPU: ASUS GF GTX980Ti 6144MB 384bit PCI-E STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5.
Memory: DDR4 16 GB, 4x4 or 2x8 , which company???
Storage: 256 gb SSD and a 2TB WD, but which one should I choose?
Case: NZXT Source 340 Black Window
Power Supply: ??? dunno here. Will Seasonic G-550 be okay ?
Monitor: Asus 27 PG279Q LED ROG SWIFT DP 164Hz G-sync.
I appreciate all the help I can get here.
Hey PC GAF! It's that time again.
I'm in the process of wanting to upgrade my graphics card. I currently have a Radeon HD 6800 series card which I purchased in 2012. I think back then it was a mid-range card, so I am guessing by today's standards it is rather low!
My budget is around £150-200 max, and with that in mind I have been looking at possibly a GTX 960, which go for around £160. Is this a suitable card to upgrade to for that price? My experience is with ATI cards, so my knowledge on nVidia is near zero!
I currently have a Asus P8Z77-V LX2 motherboard that I am also hoping will be suitable for a GTX 960.
Any advice would be most appreciated.
Thanks!
I'm in the process of wanting to upgrade my graphics card. I currently have a Radeon HD 6800 series card which I purchased in 2012. I think back then it was a mid-range card, so I am guessing by today's standards it is rather low!
My budget is around £150-200 max, and with that in mind I have been looking at possibly a GTX 960, which go for around £160. Is this a suitable card to upgrade to for that price? My experience is with ATI cards, so my knowledge on nVidia is near zero!
I currently have a Asus P8Z77-V LX2 motherboard that I am also hoping will be suitable for a GTX 960.
Any advice would be most appreciated.
Thanks!
CoachKevin
Member
Amazon has a SanDisk Ultra II 960GB SATA III SSD on sale today for $220.
I just bought a Samsung Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III SSD, but think it might be worth returning it for this one? Is there a huge performance difference?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I just bought a Samsung Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III SSD, but think it might be worth returning it for this one? Is there a huge performance difference?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABHVQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
The leaked AMD R9 380X comes out very soon and should be under £200 - it's rumoured to be positioned between the GTX 960 and GTX 970, but we'll have to wait for reviews to see.
Olliewilldie
Neo Member
Bit of a crystal ball question really but I am planning on buying a load of new components now / this week / next week but just wondering if it's worth waiting.
I tend to get a lot of my stuff from Amazon.co.uk and being an american company they seem to love this black friday malarky.
Basically my question is did anyone pay attention last year to see if many PC components get discounted?
Many thanks as always you helpful bunch.
I tend to get a lot of my stuff from Amazon.co.uk and being an american company they seem to love this black friday malarky.
Basically my question is did anyone pay attention last year to see if many PC components get discounted?
Many thanks as always you helpful bunch.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
There is no worth mentioning difference, so go with the best price.
CoachKevin
Member
I did a closer look and the speeds are the same if not better on the Sandisk. Totally worth the extra $60 for twice the space.
I might go with this one instead of that Mushkin 1TB one I posted up earlier. I've got a 120GB Sandisk that's been running strong for the past couple years, so I trust them. Sure, I'm losing out on 40GB for $30, but I don't know much about Mushkin and plan to use this as my primary drive.
EDIT: Went ahead and bit the bullet on the Sandisk. Amazon's same-day shipping pushed me over the edge.
LegionAgent
Member
I still need help in this matter, please.
Are there any preferred retailers you prefer to shop with? Skinflint.co.uk is a good price comparison shopping website, but I have no idea if their retailers include Ireland.
Can you try the GPU in another PCI-E slot? Or even a different PC? As for the RAM, try the latest BIOS update for your motherboard. Other than that, there's not much else you can do.
That's unfortunate. Better luck with your next set of parts.
Hi Gaf, I was wondering what do you think about the Corsair Carbide Series 330R case for a quiet living room pc. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJNDGFG/?tag=neogaf0e-20 (75$ at amazon)
Fractal Design Define S was suggested before (72$ at superbiiz) but I would really prefer working with amazon instead of superbiiz.
I will run an Intel i7 5775C and Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB in it.
Thanks
Fractal Design Define S was suggested before (72$ at superbiiz) but I would really prefer working with amazon instead of superbiiz.
I will run an Intel i7 5775C and Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB in it.
Thanks
If you're worried about motherboard reliability, keep in mind that the Z170-A only has a 3/5 score on Newegg with most negative reviews having common complaints. However, it has a decent 4/5 star rating on Amazon. Otherwise, I'd recommend the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI which seems to have a more reliable average review score. Also, you can save $100 or so without sacrificing much performance, with the parts below:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($117.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 960GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($299.99 @ B&H)
Total: $747.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-19 11:19 EST-0500
Keep in mind that the Corsair Air 240 is made for water cooling. It's not that you can't use an air cooler in it, it just has very limited space for one, and compact air coolers aren't very good if you plan to do any overclocking.
Otherwise I like the Node 804. I've been eyeing that case to use as a home file server.
It's not what we usually recommend (Crucial, Samsung) but it uses the same controller as the Crucial BX100 which we do recommend a lot here. Going off Anandtech's review, it seems to be a solid choice, nothing really wrong with it. I'd feel safe recommending it.
What country are you in and what's your budget? You can also fill out the questions from the first post of this thread to help us get an idea of what you want.
You didn't list a graphics card, was that accidentally left off?
Going by benchmarks, the Samsung 850 Evo is a faster drive than the Sandisk Ultra II. Both would be quite fast compared to a hard drive though, and it would be hard to tell the difference between both SSDs in normal use. If you want to return the Samsung to get the larger Sandisk and it wasn't a hassle, that'd be understandable.
The 330R is the result of Corsair redesigning one of their lower end cases (300R) for silence. While not bad, Anandtech review of the 330R says the Nanoxia cases that I recommended it to you before tend to do a better job of silence.If you want to save money then the 330R is decent, but if you value silence and don't mind paying a bit more, Amazon has the Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 for $90. Do you just prefer to order from Amazon only or are other retailers ok?
I see, thanks. I guess I'll pass this and wait for black friday/cyber monday deals on nanoxia or fractal design. I don't mind ordering from newegg as well but amazon's customer service and prime shipping are quite large bonuses to overcome. I especially try to avoid mail-in rebates even if I have to pay slightly more in the end.
I have one other question. The price of the CPU cooler you suggested increased by 10% and it is even more expensive in amazon (stock fluctuates as well). Do you have any other suggestions?
Kenzodielocke
Banned
General question, should I prioritize the CPU or GPU in terms of pricing ?
Depends on your overall budget and what you want to do with the PC.
It's better and easier to buy a strong CPU that will last for years and and upgrade the graphics card as needed than to buy a strong graphics card and a weak CPU to upgrade later.
Graphics cards remain compatible for many many years as they all use the same PCI-E slots with backward compatible specs. On the other hand, Intel refreshes their consumer desktop processors every year or so and every 2 or 3 generations (~2 years), they will switch to a new and different motherboard CPU socket that is incompatible with existing processors. It's also easier to replace the graphics card than it is for processors.
Given that you can spend $250 USD and get a strong processor that will last around 5 years (especially with overclocking), it generally makes more sense to get a capable processor and upgrade the graphics card as needed.
Yeah, give me some time and I'll rework the parts list for Amazon, Newegg, and silence. Are there any other considerations that need to be factored in for the PC?
No need to rush since I will wait for the black friday/cyber monday deals in any case. I did buy a 970 from the newegg deal on ebay for 250$ (http://www.ebay.com/itm/291618154246?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT). I am pretty sure it is not the best 970 out there but considering I will probably get a new gpu in a couple of years it should be enough. PSU seems strong enough to power a new mid-range (970 equivalent) card in 2 years, right?
Cheap GPU means more leeway for expensive parts but I got an xbox elite controller as well so I really should not exceed 1000$ in total.
Sorry, I know this was not what you wanted to hear. No joy taken in announcing such news.
The good thing about a PSU is that it can be future proofed easily, in fact this is one the only part you can future proof to a great degree on PC.
Get yourself a nice 650w quality PSU and you will be able to reuse it for years.
I still have my Corsair HX650w from 2010. Still going strong and never waned.
Sounds like you've got a plan then. Nothing wrong with that GTX 970, it should be fine. It doesn't seem to have the zero fan speed silent mode that other GTX 970 models have, though.
Yeah, a 650 watt power supply is more than enough for your needs and then some.
Hey guys, just built a new PC and having some problems. Parts list as follows:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($146.30 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.75 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VH236H 23.0" Monitor ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1897.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-19 16:26 EST-0500
I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't seem to be recognizing any monitors. Power LED is on and all system fans including heatsink are running. Optical drive is also working, but there's no other indication that the entire system is working. Tried with HDMI through the graphics card, and then removed the graphics card and tried with the motherboard HDMI. Same result.
Double checked all the connections, tried to clear the RTC RAM (though I'm not sure if I did this correctly since the motherboard manual was unclear) and it's still the same. Anywhere I should go from here? Thanks.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($254.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($146.30 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.75 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VH236H 23.0" Monitor ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1897.75
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-19 16:26 EST-0500
I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't seem to be recognizing any monitors. Power LED is on and all system fans including heatsink are running. Optical drive is also working, but there's no other indication that the entire system is working. Tried with HDMI through the graphics card, and then removed the graphics card and tried with the motherboard HDMI. Same result.
Double checked all the connections, tried to clear the RTC RAM (though I'm not sure if I did this correctly since the motherboard manual was unclear) and it's still the same. Anywhere I should go from here? Thanks.
opticalmace
Member
Do you have another monitor you could hook it up to (or even TV)? Try a different cable or different port, perhaps.
Yup tried with another monitor (TV) and used a different HDMI cable along with a DVI to HDMI cable. Same result with everything.
Is the 8 pin CPU power cable plugged in? Any status LEDs on, blinking, or off?
According to page 1-34 in your manual (page 46 of the PDF), there are status LEDs placed all over the motherboard. As the computer boots up, each LED will flash as the motherboard passes through the POST process. If the motherboard stalls on the test as it powers on, the LED that remains lit should be the one that it is having a problem with.
The 8-pin connector was in the form of 2 4-pin connectors from the power supply. It made for a very tight fit and I kind of felt like I was applying too much pressure at times. Here's what it looks like:
The only LED that's on is the Power LED at the bottom of the motherboard which stays on as long as the power supply is connected to an outlet.
EDIT: Yeah, I'm not getting any POST LEDs. I guess that means it's failing to POST. Is there anything I can do about that?
hockeypuck
Member
Is your 8-pin upside down? I think I see a gap, which shouldn't be there. I have the same motherboard and the same CPU. My power supply is a Seasonic, but the 8-pin should be similar enough. My 8-pin tab is the opposite of yours:The 8-pin connector was in the form of 2 4-pin connectors from the power supply. It made for a very tight fit and I kind of felt like I was applying too much pressure at times. Here's what it looks like:
The only LED that's on is the Power LED at the bottom of the motherboard which stays on as long as the power supply is connected to an outlet.
Hmm, changed them out and they actually fit a lot better the other way but still the same result.
Yeah, the plan is buying the parts you suggested as cheap as possible
I don't think I will really need the zero fan mode, I don't even have a monitor for basic web browsing. I'll keep using my laptop (MSI GS70) for everything other than gaming.Nothing1016
Member
Does anyone have any recommendations on builds? This is gonna be my first build and I'm looking for something to run games at 1080/60 but don't mind if it falls under as long as I can lock games at 30. Not really interested in overclocking or 1440p, 4K at the moment.
My budget is around $850 + or - $100. I posted in this thread a while back but I have been leaning back and forth over builds. gonna take gaf's advice
My budget is around $850 + or - $100. I posted in this thread a while back but I have been leaning back and forth over builds.
gonna take gaf's adviceLegionAgent
Member
Okay so RAM is definitely the problem, but my GPU still doesn't work. I'm seriously worried. The lights on it turn on and all, but my monitor displays "no signal" no matter what I do.
Harbinger of War
Member
Hey all, I was hoping someone could tell me whether or not this is normal behavior from my GPU.
I just got an R9 380 as a replacement from MSI after RMAing my 7870. Everything seems fine so far, but I can't help but notice constant minor clock fluctuations during general computer usage. With the 7870, the core clocks would generally jump from 300 Mhz at idle to 450 Mhz while watching videos. With the 380, they're much more all over the place:
I fired up a game real quick (Sonic Racing Transformed) and noticed that the core was fluctuating between 730-780 Mhz, whereas my 7870 would maintain its max clock speed throughout.
These seem like power-saving measures for when the GPU isn't at full load, and I just wanted to confirm that this was the case. Like I said, I'm coming from a 7870 that never had these types of fluctuations, so I wanna make sure there isn't anything to worry about here.
I just got an R9 380 as a replacement from MSI after RMAing my 7870. Everything seems fine so far, but I can't help but notice constant minor clock fluctuations during general computer usage. With the 7870, the core clocks would generally jump from 300 Mhz at idle to 450 Mhz while watching videos. With the 380, they're much more all over the place:
I fired up a game real quick (Sonic Racing Transformed) and noticed that the core was fluctuating between 730-780 Mhz, whereas my 7870 would maintain its max clock speed throughout.
These seem like power-saving measures for when the GPU isn't at full load, and I just wanted to confirm that this was the case. Like I said, I'm coming from a 7870 that never had these types of fluctuations, so I wanna make sure there isn't anything to worry about here.
Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely take it under consideration. I did look up a review of the BX200 SSD over at Anandtech and they were not too thrilled with it. Have you seen that review? ( http://www.anandtech.com/show/9756/...-960gb-ssd-review-crucials-first-tlc-nand-ssd )
On a related note, what are everyone's thoughts on me having only a 1TB SSD as my storage with no HDD. Around the internet some think that isn't that good of an idea since I would be doing a lot of writing to the SSD in that case which will shorten its lifespan. Some seem to prefer having only the OS and applications on the SSD but having everything else (like game saves I imagine) on a regular hard drive. Is this what is recommended or is the lifespan something I shouldn't worry about too much?
CoachKevin
Member
What is the go-to hard drive cloning app for Windows 10? Getting a new SSD and would like to just do a clone and then pop it in.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
OtakuReborn124
Neo Member
Ironic, considering the name, but good to know.
On that subject, what should I be looking for in a liquid cooling system? I've traditionally been on air cooled systems so I'm not sure what to look for or what brands to avoid.
Chairman Yang
if he talks about books, you better damn well listen
My processor is an i5 2500 (not 2500K unfortunately). If I use a GTX 970, will I be bottlenecked in lots of games or should I be okay to get 1080p/60 FPS in most of them?
opticalmace
Member
That'd be fine. And whenever you upgrade, you'll see a nice little boost when you transfer the 970 over.
Thinking of going from a i5 2500k at 4.5 to a i7 5820k. Havent decided if I want to pull the trigger or not, I know the performance will basically be the same but I feel like maybe the 2500k is creeping up on its end and maybe a 5820k could last me another 5 years like the 2500k has.
Any thoughts from this thread?
Any thoughts from this thread?
I hope you haven't accidentally killed your motherboard by plugging it in the wrong way. There are locking tabs on both the cable end and the motherboard port, the two should match and click together. There's a specific reason why the plastic connector has some square and some rounded ends, it's to help facilitate the plug being inserted one way only because certain pins carry different voltages.
Yeah, the plan is buying the parts you suggested as cheap as possible
Well, the silent fan mode is something I thought you might prefer since you wanted a quiet PC. Choosing loud components to go into a "sound muffling" computer case doesn't do a lot to keep noise down.
You don't have to follow my exact part recommendations exactly to the letter, there are other parts that are also similarly good and may be available for a cheaper price. Prices change, and what I do is select the best prices I can find at the moment when people ask for parts lists.
Garrett Hawke
Member
For the past few weeks my PC has been randomly shutting itself down. Except not properly, it just happens at random times wherein the screen will go black but the light will still be on on the case and I can still hear the fans going. Screen just goes completely black with no output and no way to get it back without pushing the restart button. I don't know how to find out what's turning it off or anything. :/
Is it possible my GPU isn't getting enough power? I have a 500W PSU for my 970 and it just powers it.
Is it possible my GPU isn't getting enough power? I have a 500W PSU for my 970 and it just powers it.
I have read it, and their consensus is that while it's not a clear improvement over the BX100 in all areas, it's still a decent SSD:
Random and sequential write speeds both suffer, and sequential writes were hurt relatively more as compared with the BX100. Sequential read speeds were fine, and elsewhere things aren't quite bad enough to make it a one-legged stool. The most acute weaknesses are in areas that are less important to typical desktop usage. Peak performance is much better than sustained performance and reads speeds are much better than write speeds, so for interactive use the BX200 will be much more responsive than most of our tests indicate.
The main disappointment is that it's not that much improved, the main difference compared to the BX100 is technical rather than in performance. Crucial wants to replace the BX100 already, so when I looked up the prices, they were cheaper than the BX100 slightly. As always, what I recommend is a guideline, you can choose whatever you want in the end, so feel free to pick another SSD instead if you prefer. I saw the BX200 at $300 being a better deal than the 850 Evo for $346, that's all.
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