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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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What clock speed, what Vcore in CPUz under load and what are the temps?

In the Asus RealBench stress tests (15min, 30min) it was default voltage, multiplayer of x40 and pretty sure no other settings changed. in the 15 min (16gb ram) it reached a high of about 55c. In the 30min test the high was 57c.

At the moment I have a game running (Dragon Age Origins again so hardly demanding nowadays) but CPU Z says core voltage is 1.19x (the x changes from 3 to 8, and occasionally hits 1.2. Core speed is 3999.1Mhz still on the x40 multiplier.

In the Cpu-Z report in the processors information section it says (in relation to temps and power) Temperature 37c (43c seems to have been my current max for a core in Dragon Age but it obviously fluctuates a little bit)...

Voltage 0 1.20 Volts (VID)
Voltage 1 1.20 Volts (IA)
Voltage 2 +0.00 Volts (GT Offset)
Voltage 3 +0.00 Volts (LLC/Ring Offset)
Voltage 4 +0.00 Volts (System Agent Offset)
 

Barzul

Member
Nice. What games? What are the rest of your specs?

edit: 1080p?
Well I only tested Witcher 3 and Fallout and the frame rate is for the most part locked 60 now. I didn't know what Novigrad at 60fps looked like till now.

Specs:

i7 4790k
GTX 970
16GB RAM
500gb Samsung SSD

I'd been looking to upgrade my CPU for a while so that it wouldn't be a bottleneck for when Pascal drops.
 

LilJoka

Member
In the Asus RealBench stress tests (15min, 30min) it was default voltage, multiplayer of x40 and pretty sure no other settings changed. in the 15 min (16gb ram) it reached a high of about 55c. In the 30min test the high was 57c.

At the moment I have a game running (Dragon Age Origins again so hardly demanding nowadays) but CPU Z says core voltage is 1.19x (the x changes from 3 to 8, and occasionally hits 1.2. Core speed is 3999.1Mhz still on the x40 multiplier.

In the Cpu-Z report in the processors information section it says (in relation to temps and power) Temperature 37c (43c seems to have been my current max for a core in Dragon Age but it obviously fluctuates a little bit)...

Voltage 0 1.20 Volts (VID)
Voltage 1 1.20 Volts (IA)
Voltage 2 +0.00 Volts (GT Offset)
Voltage 3 +0.00 Volts (LLC/Ring Offset)
Voltage 4 +0.00 Volts (System Agent Offset)

The most important thing to look at is the CPU Vcore in CPUz in real time whilst the stress test like RealBench is running, what was that reading?

Also remember that 4Ghz is pretty standard for these CPUs, by default some boards enable all core turbo to 4Ghz.

So no point testing this anymore, get the CPUz Vcore reading, start by setting the adaptive Vcore up to match that reading when under load. And increase multiplier to 42x.

Quick testing is all that needed, 10mins or so, until you find the right balance of temps, Vcore and speed. Then you do the 1hour or longer tests to stabilise.
 

Pacotez

Member
What's wrong with ASRock? Don't like their customer service? You can choose Gigabyte, Asus, or MSI if you prefer.

Nothing at all. Just wondering if there was any special feature or something. I found an asus and asrock ones for about the same price and with discounts.
 
The most important thing to look at is the CPU Vcore in CPUz in real time whilst the stress test like RealBench is running, what was that reading?

Also remember that 4Ghz is pretty standard for these CPUs, by default some boards enable all core turbo to 4Ghz.

So no point testing this anymore, get the CPUz Vcore reading, start by setting the adaptive Vcore up to match that reading when under load. And increase multiplier to 42x.

Quick testing is all that needed, 10mins or so, until you find the right balance of temps, Vcore and speed. Then you do the 1hour or longer tests to stabilise.

Ok so I did a quick 10m test in RealBench just to make sure of things. Core Voltage in CPU Z is 1.192 and seems pretty steady, and CPUZ has not crashed on me. RealTemp shows mid 50s on average for temperatures.

So my next job is so set the adaptive vCore (in Bios?) to 1.192? I will probably do that in the morning as it's getting on a bit. The core voltage has gone down to about 0.77x now that i've stopped the test.

Thanks
 

Morning19

Neo Member
So, about to start pulling triggers on my bigger pieces. Definitely going 980ti, and have pretty much everything I need but CPU, Mobo & RAM. I have done a little googling, but still can't find a good definitive answer to sway me either way in regards to the i7-4790k or the i5-6600k. The difference in dollars doesn't really matter to me, but to those that have used both, can you notice differences? Will the 6600k and DDR4 really be nice for the future? Or will the increased speed with the 4790k be worth it over the next 3 or 4 years. I know I can't go wrong either way, but just curious to he what Gaffers have to say.
 
So, about to start pulling triggers on my bigger pieces. Definitely going 980ti, and have pretty much everything I need but CPU, Mobo & RAM. I have done a little googling, but still can't find a good definitive answer to sway me either way in regards to the i7-4790k or the i5-6600k. The difference in dollars doesn't really matter to me, but to those that have used both, can you notice differences? Will the 6600k and DDR4 really be nice for the future? Or will the increased speed with the 4790k be worth it over the next 3 or 4 years. I know I can't go wrong either way, but just curious to he what Gaffers have to say.

Are you only going to be using it for gaming? Or also productivity software?

This link compares the 6600k and 4790k, both at 4.5ghz, in a variety of different games: http://www.purepc.pl/procesory/test_procesora_intel_core_i56600k_skylake_mocne_cztery_rdzenie?page=0,33
It's not in English but it's pretty comprehensible. Just check out the pages that start with "Test OC" and see how they compare in different games.
 

RGM79

Member

Jharp

Member
Alright, how about this one? I'm pretty hellbent on the i7, but people keep suggesting to me that it's not necessary and a waste of money. At the same time, I'm afraid anything less will act as a bottleneck or even hinder future upgrade possibilities.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LMZPwP
 

RGM79

Member
Alright, how about this one? I'm pretty hellbent on the i7, but people keep suggesting to me that it's not necessary and a waste of money. At the same time, I'm afraid anything less will act as a bottleneck or even hinder future upgrade possibilities.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LMZPwP

You can get 2400MHz RAM for a couple dollars more. Makes a difference in games like Fallout 4 and maybe some others. I still think the WD Black 2TB drive is expensive and not worth the price. And do you really need the DVD drive?

Should I get 120mm fans or 140mm ones for the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv itx case?

Where are you mounting them? I'd go for 140mm fans myself. In theory they're better than 120mm fans as they can either move more air than a 120mm fan if both are at the same fan speed, or move the same amount of air while making less noise if set to a lower fan speed. They can cost more than 120mm fans, though.
 
Where are you mounting them? I'd go for 140mm fans myself. In theory they're better than 120mm fans as they can either move more air than a 120mm fan if both are at the same fan speed, or move the same amount of air while making less noise if set to a lower fan speed. They can cost more than 120mm fans, though.
I plan on having 2 fans in the front and 1 in the back

I need to push in air for my GPU, I just don't want them to be loud as hell
 

Jharp

Member
You can get 2400MHz RAM for a couple dollars more. Makes a difference in games like Fallout 4 and maybe some others. I still think the WD Black 2TB drive is expensive and not worth the price. And do you really need the DVD drive?



Where are you mounting them? I'd go for 140mm fans myself. In theory they're better than 120mm fans as they can either move more air than a 120mm fan if both are at the same fan speed, or move the same amount of air while making less noise if set to a lower fan speed. They can cost more than 120mm fans, though.

Switched out for the 2400 RAM, and yeah, I do prefer the DVD drive. It'll get minimal use, but it will get use. Plus, it's so cheap.

As for the harddrive, the WD blacks seem to be the most well recommended ones. I'm currently using a 1TB Black and it's never given me any issues.
 

RGM79

Member
I plan on having 2 fans in the front and 1 in the back

I need to push in air for my GPU, I just don't want them to be loud as hell

Sorry, specific fan recommendations I don't really know, but yes, that sounds like it'd work well.

Switched out for the 2400 RAM, and yeah, I do prefer the DVD drive. It'll get minimal use, but it will get use. Plus, it's so cheap.

As for the harddrive, the WD blacks seem to be the most well recommended ones. I'm currently using a 1TB Black and it's never given me any issues.
Well, to each their own then. I've been using various Seagate models (500GB, 1TB, 2TB, and 3TB) and while I try not to recommend them, I haven't had any issues with them either.
 
Got a friend that wants to upgrade his store bought HP with a nice card to run some smaller games like Rust and WoW but his PSU is only a 300w and probably a cheap one at that. Does he have any options for video cards or would updating the PSU be first priority?
 

RGM79

Member
Got a friend that wants to upgrade his store bought HP with a nice card to run some smaller games like Rust and WoW but his PSU is only a 300w and probably a cheap one at that. Does he have any options for video cards or would updating the PSU be first priority?

Depends on his PC's specs, but a GTX 960 would be one of the best graphics cards he can get, assuming it has the correct power supply cables to plug into the graphics card. If not, then his next best bet would be to look for a GTX 750 Ti, there are some models of that graphics card that don't require power cables.

Anyone got a recommended mount kit for a 3.5 HDD to a 5.25 bay?

Are you looking for any special features? If not then any mount will do, it's literally just a piece of metal that holds a hard drive in place with screws costing no more than a few dollars. Otherwise there are more expensive hot-swappable models with features like front-loading quick release for the hard drive if you need to remove it often, simple key locks to prevent the hard drive from being removed by anyone who doesn't have the key, and carrying handles.
 

Teknoman

Member
Depends on his PC's specs, but a GTX 960 would be one of the best graphics cards he can get, assuming it has the correct power supply cables to plug into the graphics card. If not, then his next best bet would be to look for a GTX 750 Ti, there are some models of that graphics card that don't require power cables.



Are you looking for any special features? If not then any mount will do, it's literally just a piece of metal that holds a hard drive in place with screws costing no more than a few dollars. Otherwise there are more expensive hot-swappable models with features like front-loading quick release for the hard drive if you need to remove it often, simple key locks to prevent the hard drive from being removed by anyone who doesn't have the key, and carrying handles.

Nah nothing special. Just realized I didnt have anything to adapt an extra HDD I just bought lol. Thanks for the heads up though, glad I wont have to come out of pocket much. Once the hard drive is in, its pretty much going to stay there.
 

knitoe

Member
Ok so I did a quick 10m test in RealBench just to make sure of things. Core Voltage in CPU Z is 1.192 and seems pretty steady, and CPUZ has not crashed on me. RealTemp shows mid 50s on average for temperatures.

So my next job is so set the adaptive vCore (in Bios?) to 1.192? I will probably do that in the morning as it's getting on a bit. The core voltage has gone down to about 0.77x now that i've stopped the test.

Thanks

I would use HWinfo in sensor mode, link found in OP. It monitors all that info and much more while displaying their current, max and min for easy comparison. No need to run cpuz, realtemp and etc.
 

JGCD

Neo Member
Say I wanna build a computer (for gaming)
But I want it to be strong enough to use the oculus rift (which is sold out now so I need to wait for that anyway) what would my budget need to be?
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
Are rebates really limited by the "postage" date and date of purchase? I bought a card which ended up being backordered. This delayed shipping, which in turn took longer than the amount of time given by the rebate offer (15 days).

Would I not qualify for the rebate? That's really dumb. -_-
 
After months of awesome performance, my 970 is suddenly stuttering like crazy. Up to a full second freezes with stuck sound, and in general, stuttery framerates. Observed in Rocket League and MGSV -- games I've played for 20+ and 50+ hours with no issues.

Afterburner shows it's definitely not a heat issue. Doesn't seem to be dust, but I didn't take it all the way out. I just updated drivers. What the heck is going on? Ways to diagnose?
 

knitoe

Member
After months of awesome performance, my 970 is suddenly stuttering like crazy. Up to a full second freezes with stuck sound, and in general, stuttery framerates. Observed in Rocket League and MGSV -- games I've played for 20+ and 50+ hours with no issues.

Afterburner shows it's definitely not a heat issue. Doesn't seem to be dust, but I didn't take it all the way out. I just updated drivers. What the heck is going on? Ways to diagnose?

First thing I always ask, is the card overclock compare to a stock 970, by user or from the manufacturer? If yes, down lock to to stock and test.
 
Sooooo i just ordered another PSU from newegg again

I already posted my issue here with my pc just randomly shutting off even though my temp for my cpu and gpu are normal when it happens.
Everything would turn off but the mobo is red even though the green power is gone and my mobo would show the D0 error(MSI X99s mobo)



So currently I have the EVGA 850 G or GS version that has the seasonic stuff and ordered the EVGA 850 G2 version to replace it. It's gonna suck a lot because i have to do cable management again but does anyone know If i can just plug some cables from my g version to the g2 version without damaging or getting issues ?
 
Are rebates really limited by the "postage" date and date of purchase? I bought a card which ended up being backordered. This delayed shipping, which in turn took longer than the amount of time given by the rebate offer (15 days).

Would I not qualify for the rebate? That's really dumb. -_-

To put it as cynically as possible:

The goal of rebates is not to offer you free money. It's to maximize the returns of the vendor offering the rebate.

Rebates have always been annoying. That's part of their inherent design. The actual number of people who attempt to redeem a rebate is very small, relatively speaking. The hoops are there so few people jump through them.
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
To put it as cynically as possible:

The goal of rebates is not to offer you free money. It's to maximize the returns of the vendor offering the rebate.

Rebates have always been annoying. That's part of their inherent design. The actual number of people who attempt to redeem a rebate is very small, relatively speaking. The hoops are there so few people jump through them.
I know, which is why I avoided getting lots of items with rebates.

However, I would have expected a more reasonable time frame. >>
 
I would use HWinfo in sensor mode, link found in OP. It monitors all that info and much more while displaying their current, max and min for easy comparison. No need to run cpuz, realtemp and etc.

Cool. I will do that in a bit and do the adaptive v core stuff.

Edit: havent gone into bios yet(not near system) but would i set adaptive v core to just the value of v core under load?

Just double checking
 

SoulSpore

Member
Are rebates really limited by the "postage" date and date of purchase? I bought a card which ended up being backordered. This delayed shipping, which in turn took longer than the amount of time given by the rebate offer (15 days).

Would I not qualify for the rebate? That's really dumb. -_-

Sometimes if you contact the company handling the rebates, they might let your rebate qualify if you provide the packing list or copy of the tracking page info that shows your item has been shipped and received after the cutoff date.
 

knitoe

Member
Cool. I will do that in a bit and do the adaptive v core stuff.

Edit: havent gone into bios yet(not near system) but would i set adaptive v core to just the value of v core under load?
When using adaptive v core, it will give you the option of + or - to the VCore. What you need to do is added or subtract so it will be the same as VCore you test before. It will probably take you a few tries you get it correct. Let's say, you need 1.25V. You + 0.20V, but under testing, it's only showing 1.20V. Go back and make it +0.25V.
 
When using adaptive v core, it will give you the option of + or - to the VCore. What you need to do is added or subtract so it will be the same as VCore you test before. It will probably take you a few tries you get it correct. Let's say, you need 1.25V. You + 0.20V, but under testing, it's only showing 1.20V. Go back and make it +0.25V.

So, just to make sure I understand this right, I've downloaded the program you recc'd that was linked in the OP. For the cores it gives them all an average voltage in the 0.8xx range with a maximum in 1.06x or 1.07x. So if I go into bios and set to a x42 multiplier (currently at x40) and I need to set the adaptive vcore to what it was under load (which I'll do again now but I think was roughly 1.23 or something) it'd be +.15/16 etc?

Just making sure I understand the process right :p

Edit: So after a quick 10min stress test via RealBench...HWInfo reports maximum voltage on cores of 1.196-1.202v. Current voltage is typically in the 1.19x range. So I'll go into BIOS and set adaptive vCore to about...+0.20 and, providing it works, come back, do a test and check things?
 

manfestival

Member
Welp finally placed my order just now. Took a long time going back and forth and burned like 3 hours magically trying to make final revisions and etc. Ended up going with

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Qy2N8d
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Qy2N8d/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Sandisk Z400s 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $423.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-16 03:40 EST-0500

Only reason I went with the sandisk was because I read its performance was good and well the 850 was sold out on amazon but I got to save a few bucks there. Didnt exactly want to splurge on the 500. Maybe in the future. I also went with the fractal S cause I found the idea of a quiet case to be more appealing and I guess maybe I want the more minimalist look of it too. My current case is so ugly

Super excited and cannot wait. I also stuck with the xeon because as a friend told me... this processor will probably last me 5+ years with the way things are currently going.

I dont really have experience with SSD and im going from an amd x4 965 with a 7200HDD to... that line up. I imagine the world is gonna go by waaaaaaaaaay faster. super stoked except for the wait for everything to ship now.... the parts wont arrive till after the 22nd... merry christmas to me I suppose
 
Ok so I went into bios, set adaptive core voltage to +0.115 (the difference between "idle" voltage and the "full load/stress test" voltage) and set the multiplier to x42. That booted to Win10 ok but at the log on screen the mouse moved but Windows had frozen itself. On reboot it said overclocking failed so I went back into bios and moved the multiplier back down to x40.

Gonna do a 15 min stress test now(right?) to make sure things are good.

Edit: On reboot I only had to change the multiplier back down to x40, the adaptive core voltage is still set.

Ok after the stress test, no failures, and the maximum voltage via HWInfo is 1.13x-1.17x. So...i need to increase the adaptive voltage, right? I set the adaptive voltage at about 0.11 before so I think now...at about 0.18/0.19? Then if that is stable I can move onto further increasing the core multiplier?
 

pislit

Member
I've been reading all over the place with Skylake mobos overclocking non-K cpus, any gaffer with more technical know hows shed some light to this. Thinking of starting a new thread but this may be minor and not so great.
 

knitoe

Member
Ok so I went into bios, set adaptive core voltage to +0.115 (the difference between "idle" voltage and the "full load/stress test" voltage) and set the multiplier to x42. That booted to Win10 ok but at the log on screen the mouse moved but Windows had frozen itself. On reboot it said overclocking failed so I went back into bios and moved the multiplier back down to x40.

Gonna do a 15 min stress test now(right?) to make sure things are good.

Edit: On reboot I only had to change the multiplier back down to x40, the adaptive core voltage is still set.

Ok after the stress test, no failures, and the maximum voltage via HWInfo is 1.13x-1.17x. So...i need to increase the adaptive voltage, right? I set the adaptive voltage at about 0.11 before so I think now...at about 0.18/0.19? Then if that is stable I can move onto further increasing the core multiplier?
I would do it the other way. I would first try 4.3GHz. I would set it so VCore shows max 1.30V in HWinfo while stress testing. Make show to also keep temps below 80C. If it passes testing and temps check after 10-15 min, I would repeat with 4.4 GHz, then 4.5, 4.6 and so on. At some point, it won't pass and crash. Then, I would select .1GHz lower as my target speed. Next, I would work on lower the VCore voltage. I would decrease by 0.010 until it crashes again. Then, increase it by 0.005. That should be your ideal voltage and/or near it. If near, add 0.002V. Now, you should have the right speed and voltage.
 
I would do it the other way. I would first try 4.3GHz. I would set it so VCore shows max 1.30V in HWinfo while stress testing. Make show to also keep temps below 80C. If it passes after 10-15 min, I would repeat with 4.4 GHz, then 4.5, 4.6 and so on. At some point, it won't pass and crash. Then, I would select .1GHz lower as my target speed. Next, I would work on lower the VCore voltage. I would decrease by 0.100 until it crashes again. Then, increase it by 0.050. That should be your ideal voltage and/or near it. If near, add 0.020V. Now, you should have the right speed and voltage.

So work up to my target multiplier/speed, in increments I guess (or go to 4.3/4.4ghz straight off, as opposed to working in 100mhz increases), increasing the setting so the max voltage is about 1.3v at full load/stress, with temps being ok (they should be, but i'll pay attention to them). Then once at target speed, lower vcore by 0.1 increments until it crashes, then increase by 0.05 till it passes?

Sorry if i'm basically repeating what you typed. It's sometimes easier for me to understand it if I spell it out like that. So at the moment I'm on x40 + adaptive vCore of about 0.113, or thereabouts. I will change the multiplier to x43 + adaptive vCore so it would reach 1.3v under stress. Then if I can get x43 to pass stress test + not go nuts with temps, work on lowering the voltage until I find that sweet spot? So idle my max is, according to HWInfo, 1.102-1.163, so I'd increase it to about +0.200, which would be a shade over 1.3 but if that's stable I can work on reducing the voltage from there.
 

Vuze

Member
Say I wanna build a computer (for gaming)
But I want it to be strong enough to use the oculus rift (which is sold out now so I need to wait for that anyway) what would my budget need to be?
First, I'd highly advise against getting a Rift DK2 now if that's what you were about to order. Wait for the consumer version next year. Second, Oculus said a GTX970 or equivalent card is recommended for CV1 and obviously a modern CPU won't hurt, so if you have no parts at all, you are looking at 1000$+.

---

I'm thinking about upgrading my CPU for Christmas since I'm doing a lot of video rendering stuff currently and for the forseeable future. I'm currently using an i5 4570 @ 3,2GHz so I imagine an upgrade to, say, an i7 6700k that could probably be overclocked to 4,5GHz or more would benefit me.

Any personal experiences from people who did a similar upgrade? Can I just swap MB, CPU and RAM without having to do a fresh windows install (I'd really rather not have to do one)?

E: Wtf, just checked prices for the 6700k and it seems pretty well sold out and the shops which still have stock sell it for 450€+..... isn't 350 the MSRP? Damn, you'd think Intel would have supplied enough stock by now
 

knitoe

Member
So work up to my target multiplier/speed, in increments I guess (or go to 4.3/4.4ghz straight off, as opposed to working in 100mhz increases), increasing the setting so the max voltage is about 1.3v at full load/stress, with temps being ok (they should be, but i'll pay attention to them). Then once at target speed, lower vcore by 0.1 increments until it crashes, then increase by 0.05 till it passes?

Sorry if i'm basically repeating what you typed. It's sometimes easier for me to understand it if I spell it out like that. So at the moment I'm on x40 + adaptive vCore of about 0.113, or thereabouts. I will change the multiplier to x43 + adaptive vCore so it would reach 1.3v under stress. Then if I can get x43 to pass stress test + not go nuts with temps, work on lowering the voltage until I find that sweet spot? So idle my max is, according to HWInfo, 1.102-1.163, so I'd increase it to about +0.200, which would be a shade over 1.3 but if that's stable I can work on reducing the voltage from there.

Yes.

1) Start at 4.3GHz @ 1.30V while keeping temps under 80C. If it passes stress testing, increase speed 4.4GHz @ 1.30V and retest. If it continues to pass stress testing and temps, increase to 4.5 then 4.6 and so on. At some point, your PC will fail. The successful speed before that will be the one you will be using.

2) Now, work on lowering the VCore voltage. I edited the numbers, you should be decreasing by 0.010V, instead my typing error of 0.100V, until it crash under stress testing. Then, increase the by 0.005V. That should be the sweet spot or near the ideal VCore voltage. If it's near, you can increase by 0.001-0.004V more.
 
Yes.

1) Start at 4.3GHz @ 1.30V while keeping temps under 80C. If it passes stress testing, increase speed 4.4GHz @ 1.30V and retest. If it continues to pass stress testing and temps, increase to 4.5 then 4.6 and so on. At some point, your PC will fail. The successful speed before that will be the one you will be using.

2) Now, work on lowering the VCore voltage. I edited the numbers, you should be decreasing by 0.010V, instead my typing error of 0.100V, until it crash under stress testing. Then, increase the by 0.005V. That should be the sweet spot or near the ideal VCore voltage. If it's near, you can increase by 0.001-0.004V more.

Alright I'll get working on that now.

Edit: set it to x43 & +0.200, booted to Win10 and let me log in so gonna stress test. I am - very, slowly - understand this more. It's weirdly fun ::) Stress test complete. It passed! Max temp on any core was 62c but hte averages were more like high 40s, low 50s. However...the core voltage maximum is still in the 1.2 range, from 1.1226 to 1.256. Since I passed this test I guess I should increase the multiplier rather than increase the voltage if the voltage is not necessary atm?
 
I'm looking to upgrade my processor, but is anyone able to tell me how I find out if the processor I'm looking to get is compatible with my motherboard?

My motherboard is: foxconn flaming blade gti
The processor I'd like to get is: i7 4790K
 
I'm looking to upgrade my processor, but is anyone able to tell me how I find out if the processor I'm looking to get is compatible with my motherboard?

My motherboard is: foxconn flaming blade gti
The processor I'd like to get is: i7 4790K

No, it won't work. That motherboard only support 1st gen i7 CPU, the 4790k is 4th gen.
 
I'm gonna ask again if anyone knows that evga power supply and its cables are compatible if I use them with another evga version and wattage ?

I ordered a evga 850g2 psu and i currently use the same 850w but its a g(or gs) version of that same product

would it work or i should use the cables included which is the smartest and safest thing to do?
 

ISee

Member
I'm gonna ask again if anyone knows that evga power supply and its cables are compatible if I use them with another evga version and wattage ?

I ordered a evga 850g2 psu and i currently use the same 850w but its a g(or gs) version of that same product

would it work or i should use the cables included which is the smartest and safest thing to do?

It should work. Cables are standardized and interchangeable even between brands.
 
It should work. Cables are standardized and interchangeable even between brands.
really ? thanks ! although i do need to at least fix my cable management ! and use only the power cables from my old psu that are connected to my drives cuz it took me ages to manage those lol

Just gotta replace and use th vga and cpu/mobo power cables from my new one ;_; hopefully my pc doesn' turn off randomly now ;_;
 

LilJoka

Member
Ok so I did a quick 10m test in RealBench just to make sure of things. Core Voltage in CPU Z is 1.192 and seems pretty steady, and CPUZ has not crashed on me. RealTemp shows mid 50s on average for temperatures.

So my next job is so set the adaptive vCore (in Bios?) to 1.192? I will probably do that in the morning as it's getting on a bit. The core voltage has gone down to about 0.77x now that i've stopped the test.

Thanks

This is good, ideally you would record the CPUz Vcore with stock settings as your start off point, but im sure itll be very close to 1.2v as well.

Now what you want to do is set the multiplier to x42, and adaptive offset to +0.00v.
This will look in the BIOS for the recommended Vcore for a multiplier of x42, and add 0.00v to it. Now find the load Vcore in CPUz as before. If the Vcore is reading 1.27v for example, you can use a negative offset to 0.07v to bring it down to 1.2v. Tweak this until you can get x42 multipler to boot and run a stress test for 10mins.

Check the temps, see if you can push more clock speed and Vcore.

Repeat process.
 
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