What clock speed, what Vcore in CPUz under load and what are the temps?
Well I only tested Witcher 3 and Fallout and the frame rate is for the most part locked 60 now. I didn't know what Novigrad at 60fps looked like till now.Nice. What games? What are the rest of your specs?
edit: 1080p?
In the Asus RealBench stress tests (15min, 30min) it was default voltage, multiplayer of x40 and pretty sure no other settings changed. in the 15 min (16gb ram) it reached a high of about 55c. In the 30min test the high was 57c.
At the moment I have a game running (Dragon Age Origins again so hardly demanding nowadays) but CPU Z says core voltage is 1.19x (the x changes from 3 to 8, and occasionally hits 1.2. Core speed is 3999.1Mhz still on the x40 multiplier.
In the Cpu-Z report in the processors information section it says (in relation to temps and power) Temperature 37c (43c seems to have been my current max for a core in Dragon Age but it obviously fluctuates a little bit)...
Voltage 0 1.20 Volts (VID)
Voltage 1 1.20 Volts (IA)
Voltage 2 +0.00 Volts (GT Offset)
Voltage 3 +0.00 Volts (LLC/Ring Offset)
Voltage 4 +0.00 Volts (System Agent Offset)
What's wrong with ASRock? Don't like their customer service? You can choose Gigabyte, Asus, or MSI if you prefer.
The most important thing to look at is the CPU Vcore in CPUz in real time whilst the stress test like RealBench is running, what was that reading?
Also remember that 4Ghz is pretty standard for these CPUs, by default some boards enable all core turbo to 4Ghz.
So no point testing this anymore, get the CPUz Vcore reading, start by setting the adaptive Vcore up to match that reading when under load. And increase multiplier to 42x.
Quick testing is all that needed, 10mins or so, until you find the right balance of temps, Vcore and speed. Then you do the 1hour or longer tests to stabilise.
Anyone have any Mini-ITX recommendations for around £60-80 ($100-125)?
So, about to start pulling triggers on my bigger pieces. Definitely going 980ti, and have pretty much everything I need but CPU, Mobo & RAM. I have done a little googling, but still can't find a good definitive answer to sway me either way in regards to the i7-4790k or the i5-6600k. The difference in dollars doesn't really matter to me, but to those that have used both, can you notice differences? Will the 6600k and DDR4 really be nice for the future? Or will the increased speed with the 4790k be worth it over the next 3 or 4 years. I know I can't go wrong either way, but just curious to he what Gaffers have to say.
Gaming. Streaming. Lightroom/Photoshop. Love photograhy as well as draw a bit so I figured I might as well start learning digitally. But yeah, that is about it.Are you only going to be using it for gaming? Or also productivity software?
Nothing at all. Just wondering if there was any special feature or something. I found an asus and asrock ones for about the same price and with discounts.
Alright, how about this one? I'm pretty hellbent on the i7, but people keep suggesting to me that it's not necessary and a waste of money. At the same time, I'm afraid anything less will act as a bottleneck or even hinder future upgrade possibilities.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LMZPwP
Should I get 120mm fans or 140mm ones for the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv itx case?
I plan on having 2 fans in the front and 1 in the backWhere are you mounting them? I'd go for 140mm fans myself. In theory they're better than 120mm fans as they can either move more air than a 120mm fan if both are at the same fan speed, or move the same amount of air while making less noise if set to a lower fan speed. They can cost more than 120mm fans, though.
You can get 2400MHz RAM for a couple dollars more. Makes a difference in games like Fallout 4 and maybe some others. I still think the WD Black 2TB drive is expensive and not worth the price. And do you really need the DVD drive?
Where are you mounting them? I'd go for 140mm fans myself. In theory they're better than 120mm fans as they can either move more air than a 120mm fan if both are at the same fan speed, or move the same amount of air while making less noise if set to a lower fan speed. They can cost more than 120mm fans, though.
I plan on having 2 fans in the front and 1 in the back
I need to push in air for my GPU, I just don't want them to be loud as hell
Well, to each their own then. I've been using various Seagate models (500GB, 1TB, 2TB, and 3TB) and while I try not to recommend them, I haven't had any issues with them either.Switched out for the 2400 RAM, and yeah, I do prefer the DVD drive. It'll get minimal use, but it will get use. Plus, it's so cheap.
As for the harddrive, the WD blacks seem to be the most well recommended ones. I'm currently using a 1TB Black and it's never given me any issues.
Got a friend that wants to upgrade his store bought HP with a nice card to run some smaller games like Rust and WoW but his PSU is only a 300w and probably a cheap one at that. Does he have any options for video cards or would updating the PSU be first priority?
Anyone got a recommended mount kit for a 3.5 HDD to a 5.25 bay?
Depends on his PC's specs, but a GTX 960 would be one of the best graphics cards he can get, assuming it has the correct power supply cables to plug into the graphics card. If not, then his next best bet would be to look for a GTX 750 Ti, there are some models of that graphics card that don't require power cables.
Are you looking for any special features? If not then any mount will do, it's literally just a piece of metal that holds a hard drive in place with screws costing no more than a few dollars. Otherwise there are more expensive hot-swappable models with features like front-loading quick release for the hard drive if you need to remove it often, simple key locks to prevent the hard drive from being removed by anyone who doesn't have the key, and carrying handles.
Ok so I did a quick 10m test in RealBench just to make sure of things. Core Voltage in CPU Z is 1.192 and seems pretty steady, and CPUZ has not crashed on me. RealTemp shows mid 50s on average for temperatures.
So my next job is so set the adaptive vCore (in Bios?) to 1.192? I will probably do that in the morning as it's getting on a bit. The core voltage has gone down to about 0.77x now that i've stopped the test.
Thanks
After months of awesome performance, my 970 is suddenly stuttering like crazy. Up to a full second freezes with stuck sound, and in general, stuttery framerates. Observed in Rocket League and MGSV -- games I've played for 20+ and 50+ hours with no issues.
Afterburner shows it's definitely not a heat issue. Doesn't seem to be dust, but I didn't take it all the way out. I just updated drivers. What the heck is going on? Ways to diagnose?
First thing I always ask, is the card overclock compare to a stock 970, by user or from the manufacturer? If yes, down lock to to stock and test.
Are rebates really limited by the "postage" date and date of purchase? I bought a card which ended up being backordered. This delayed shipping, which in turn took longer than the amount of time given by the rebate offer (15 days).
Would I not qualify for the rebate? That's really dumb. -_-
I know, which is why I avoided getting lots of items with rebates.To put it as cynically as possible:
The goal of rebates is not to offer you free money. It's to maximize the returns of the vendor offering the rebate.
Rebates have always been annoying. That's part of their inherent design. The actual number of people who attempt to redeem a rebate is very small, relatively speaking. The hoops are there so few people jump through them.
I would use HWinfo in sensor mode, link found in OP. It monitors all that info and much more while displaying their current, max and min for easy comparison. No need to run cpuz, realtemp and etc.
Are rebates really limited by the "postage" date and date of purchase? I bought a card which ended up being backordered. This delayed shipping, which in turn took longer than the amount of time given by the rebate offer (15 days).
Would I not qualify for the rebate? That's really dumb. -_-
When using adaptive v core, it will give you the option of + or - to the VCore. What you need to do is added or subtract so it will be the same as VCore you test before. It will probably take you a few tries you get it correct. Let's say, you need 1.25V. You + 0.20V, but under testing, it's only showing 1.20V. Go back and make it +0.25V.Cool. I will do that in a bit and do the adaptive v core stuff.
Edit: havent gone into bios yet(not near system) but would i set adaptive v core to just the value of v core under load?
When using adaptive v core, it will give you the option of + or - to the VCore. What you need to do is added or subtract so it will be the same as VCore you test before. It will probably take you a few tries you get it correct. Let's say, you need 1.25V. You + 0.20V, but under testing, it's only showing 1.20V. Go back and make it +0.25V.
I would do it the other way. I would first try 4.3GHz. I would set it so VCore shows max 1.30V in HWinfo while stress testing. Make show to also keep temps below 80C. If it passes testing and temps check after 10-15 min, I would repeat with 4.4 GHz, then 4.5, 4.6 and so on. At some point, it won't pass and crash. Then, I would select .1GHz lower as my target speed. Next, I would work on lower the VCore voltage. I would decrease by 0.010 until it crashes again. Then, increase it by 0.005. That should be your ideal voltage and/or near it. If near, add 0.002V. Now, you should have the right speed and voltage.Ok so I went into bios, set adaptive core voltage to +0.115 (the difference between "idle" voltage and the "full load/stress test" voltage) and set the multiplier to x42. That booted to Win10 ok but at the log on screen the mouse moved but Windows had frozen itself. On reboot it said overclocking failed so I went back into bios and moved the multiplier back down to x40.
Gonna do a 15 min stress test now(right?) to make sure things are good.
Edit: On reboot I only had to change the multiplier back down to x40, the adaptive core voltage is still set.
Ok after the stress test, no failures, and the maximum voltage via HWInfo is 1.13x-1.17x. So...i need to increase the adaptive voltage, right? I set the adaptive voltage at about 0.11 before so I think now...at about 0.18/0.19? Then if that is stable I can move onto further increasing the core multiplier?
I would do it the other way. I would first try 4.3GHz. I would set it so VCore shows max 1.30V in HWinfo while stress testing. Make show to also keep temps below 80C. If it passes after 10-15 min, I would repeat with 4.4 GHz, then 4.5, 4.6 and so on. At some point, it won't pass and crash. Then, I would select .1GHz lower as my target speed. Next, I would work on lower the VCore voltage. I would decrease by 0.100 until it crashes again. Then, increase it by 0.050. That should be your ideal voltage and/or near it. If near, add 0.020V. Now, you should have the right speed and voltage.
First, I'd highly advise against getting a Rift DK2 now if that's what you were about to order. Wait for the consumer version next year. Second, Oculus said a GTX970 or equivalent card is recommended for CV1 and obviously a modern CPU won't hurt, so if you have no parts at all, you are looking at 1000$+.Say I wanna build a computer (for gaming)
But I want it to be strong enough to use the oculus rift (which is sold out now so I need to wait for that anyway) what would my budget need to be?
So work up to my target multiplier/speed, in increments I guess (or go to 4.3/4.4ghz straight off, as opposed to working in 100mhz increases), increasing the setting so the max voltage is about 1.3v at full load/stress, with temps being ok (they should be, but i'll pay attention to them). Then once at target speed, lower vcore by 0.1 increments until it crashes, then increase by 0.05 till it passes?
Sorry if i'm basically repeating what you typed. It's sometimes easier for me to understand it if I spell it out like that. So at the moment I'm on x40 + adaptive vCore of about 0.113, or thereabouts. I will change the multiplier to x43 + adaptive vCore so it would reach 1.3v under stress. Then if I can get x43 to pass stress test + not go nuts with temps, work on lowering the voltage until I find that sweet spot? So idle my max is, according to HWInfo, 1.102-1.163, so I'd increase it to about +0.200, which would be a shade over 1.3 but if that's stable I can work on reducing the voltage from there.
Yes.
1) Start at 4.3GHz @ 1.30V while keeping temps under 80C. If it passes stress testing, increase speed 4.4GHz @ 1.30V and retest. If it continues to pass stress testing and temps, increase to 4.5 then 4.6 and so on. At some point, your PC will fail. The successful speed before that will be the one you will be using.
2) Now, work on lowering the VCore voltage. I edited the numbers, you should be decreasing by 0.010V, instead my typing error of 0.100V, until it crash under stress testing. Then, increase the by 0.005V. That should be the sweet spot or near the ideal VCore voltage. If it's near, you can increase by 0.001-0.004V more.
I'm looking to upgrade my processor, but is anyone able to tell me how I find out if the processor I'm looking to get is compatible with my motherboard?
My motherboard is: foxconn flaming blade gti
The processor I'd like to get is: i7 4790K
I'm gonna ask again if anyone knows that evga power supply and its cables are compatible if I use them with another evga version and wattage ?
I ordered a evga 850g2 psu and i currently use the same 850w but its a g(or gs) version of that same product
would it work or i should use the cables included which is the smartest and safest thing to do?
really ? thanks ! although i do need to at least fix my cable management ! and use only the power cables from my old psu that are connected to my drives cuz it took me ages to manage those lolIt should work. Cables are standardized and interchangeable even between brands.
Ok so I did a quick 10m test in RealBench just to make sure of things. Core Voltage in CPU Z is 1.192 and seems pretty steady, and CPUZ has not crashed on me. RealTemp shows mid 50s on average for temperatures.
So my next job is so set the adaptive vCore (in Bios?) to 1.192? I will probably do that in the morning as it's getting on a bit. The core voltage has gone down to about 0.77x now that i've stopped the test.
Thanks