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[BossDarkseid]

So the manufacter sent me a txt file with some new OC settings to enable in the bios via AI Tweaker...but colour me skeptical but kinda want to run them by here to see if it seems good, although I notice they don't mention CPU Core Voltage Offset (I think?) that someone mentioned as being a good idea the other day.

AI Tweaker

AI Overclock Tuner - XMP (Manual seems like it'd be easier, no? I mean unless XMP is needed but I don't see why it would be)

CPU Ratio - Sync All Cores

1 Core Ratio Limit - 43 (I've seen some people say their OCs go higher but i'm not too fussed, I'd rather be safe than bleeding edge)

Max CPU Cache Ratio - 30

AI Tweaker\External Digi+ Power Control - Press Enter
CPU loadline Calibration - Level 6
Press ESC

CPU Core Voltage - 1.230 (Everyone seems to have 1.3v is the way to go?)
CPU Cache Voltage - 1.20
CPU System Agent Voltage - 1.000
CPU SVID Support - Disabled
CPU Input Voltage - 1.90
DRAM SVID Support - Disabled
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) - 1.35
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) - 1.35
Spread Spectrum - Disabled

Any thoughts/tweaks/advice is welcome, thanks

Edit: I also have Aida64 and Asus RealBench to do any tests afterwards.

 

[ISee]

So the manufacter sent me a txt file with some new OC settings to enable in the bios via AI Tweaker...but colour me skeptical but kinda want to run them by here to see if it seems good, although I notice they don't mention CPU Core Voltage Offset (I think?) that someone mentioned as being a good idea the other day.

AI Tweaker

AI Overclock Tuner - XMP (Manual seems like it'd be easier, no? I mean unless XMP is needed but I don't see why it would be)

CPU Ratio - Sync All Cores

1 Core Ratio Limit - 43 (I've seen some people say their OCs go higher but i'm not too fussed, I'd rather be safe than bleeding edge)

Max CPU Cache Ratio - 30

AI Tweaker\External Digi+ Power Control - Press Enter
CPU loadline Calibration - Level 6
Press ESC

CPU Core Voltage - 1.230 (Everyone seems to have 1.3v is the way to go?)
CPU Cache Voltage - 1.20
CPU System Agent Voltage - 1.000
CPU SVID Support - Disabled
CPU Input Voltage - 1.90
DRAM SVID Support - Disabled
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) - 1.35
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) - 1.35
Spread Spectrum - Disabled

Any thoughts/tweaks/advice is welcome, thanks

As always this depends on your luck during the silicon lottery and your OC aim. Often an increase of core voltage is needed to reach the 'favored' oc levels. For example on my i5 3570k I can got to 4.3ghz max without having to apply more voltage (average level) others are able to reach 4.4ghz and some even 4.5ghz (the minority). On my Gigabyte gtx 980 g1 I can go up to 1435mhz and 7640 memory clock before having to increase voltage, others can go up to 1500mhz and 8000 memory clock (I can do that too, and benchmarks seems to be stable but some games have problems and the drivers crash).
In general 1.3v shouldn't harm your CPU (Intel, ivybridge+) and a good cooling solution (even air) is easily able to handle the increased temperature levels. But just raising the voltage before knowing the limits is pretty pointless and random. Maybe your cpu can handle the overclocked speeds without more voltage, or maybe you do not need 1.3v and 1.25v is already enough. You'll only find out by testing yourself, because there are no general go to levels.

 

[BossDarkseid]

I may be missing something but when they say cpu system agent voltage 1.000 all i see under ai tweaker in Bios is cpu system agent voltage offset? They want me to set that to 1.0000?

 

[knitoe]

So the manufacter sent me a txt file with some new OC settings to enable in the bios via AI Tweaker...but colour me skeptical but kinda want to run them by here to see if it seems good, although I notice they don't mention CPU Core Voltage Offset (I think?) that someone mentioned as being a good idea the other day.

AI Tweaker

AI Overclock Tuner - XMP (Manual seems like it'd be easier, no? I mean unless XMP is needed but I don't see why it would be)

CPU Ratio - Sync All Cores

1 Core Ratio Limit - 43 (I've seen some people say their OCs go higher but i'm not too fussed, I'd rather be safe than bleeding edge)

Max CPU Cache Ratio - 30

AI Tweaker\External Digi+ Power Control - Press Enter
CPU loadline Calibration - Level 6
Press ESC

CPU Core Voltage - 1.230 (Everyone seems to have 1.3v is the way to go?)
CPU Cache Voltage - 1.20
CPU System Agent Voltage - 1.000
CPU SVID Support - Disabled
CPU Input Voltage - 1.90
DRAM SVID Support - Disabled
DRAM Voltage (CHA, CHB) - 1.35
DRAM Voltage (CHC, CHD) - 1.35
Spread Spectrum - Disabled

Any thoughts/tweaks/advice is welcome, thanks

Edit: I also have Aida64 and Asus RealBench to do any tests afterwards.

By using XMP, it auto sets the ram frequency, blk and etc. if it works correctly, it's the simplest, but unfortunately, it doesn't always work and can cause random comuter hangs.

If you don't use offset, the core voltage will not decrease when not under load. It will run at the set voltage 24/7. So, once you figure out what voltage you need at X speed, use offset.

As for using 1.30V - 1.35V max, that's what you want see when stress testing under heavy load. Note that other settings also increase core voltage by certain %, like line calibration. So even though you are using 1.23V, it will be higher base on the lvl of those settings. Thus, stress test to see what the total voltage is.

And, the settings they tell you to use is probably 95% guarantee to work with ratio of 43. You most likely can run it higher.

 

[BossDarkseid]

By using XMP, it auto sets the ram frequency, blk and etc. if it works correctly, it's the simplest, but unfortunately, it doesn't always work and can cause random comuter hangs.

If you don't use offset, the core voltage will not decrease when not under load. It will run at the set voltage 24/7. So, once you figure out what voltage you need at X speed, use offset.

As for using 1.30V - 1.35V max, that's what you want see when stress testing under heavy load. Note that other settings also increase core voltage by certain %, like line calibration. So even though you are using 1.23V, it will be higher base on the lvl of those settings. Thus, stress test to see what the total voltage is.

And, the settings they tell you to use is probably 95% guarantee to work with ratio of 43. You most likely can run it higher.

Yeah, that's cool. To be honest I've really enjoyed tweaking around in the bios the last few days, it's a learning experience and oddly fun. When my friend built his "new" pc about a year ago he took apart his old PC to see how it was put together etc, I feel like I might do the same. I could find all the settings in bios apart from the sans Offset CPU System Agent Voltage option. Kinda weird.

Just trying to get some clarity on that as the last thing I want to do is say "Fuck it" and have the stress test running then to get a call/email saying "Don't do it!" as I am a picture of that i made a mistake kid.

 

[LilJoka]

Yeah, that's cool. To be honest I've really enjoyed tweaking around in the bios the last few days, it's a learning experience and oddly fun. When my friend built his "new" pc about a year ago he took apart his old PC to see how it was put together etc, I feel like I might do the same. I could find all the settings in bios apart from the sans Offset CPU System Agent Voltage option. Kinda weird.

Just trying to get some clarity on that as the last thing I want to do is say "Fuck it" and have the stress test running then to get a call/email saying "Don't do it!" as I am a picture of that i made a mistake kid.

Some people use less vcore more load line calibration and some more vcore and lower llc. I prefer the latter, makes the voltage scaling though the lower multipliers more stable. The first option can cause problems under little or no load.

You have to test it for yourself, every CPU is different.

Don't try overclocking ram and CPU at the same time.

Start with the CPU only, just play with CPU vcore and LLC. You should read up on LLC.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Some people use less vcore more load line calibration and some more vcore and lower llc. I prefer the latter, makes the voltage scaling though the lower multipliers more stable. The first option can cause problems under little or no load.

You have to test it for yourself, every CPU is different.

Don't try overclocking ram and CPU at the same time.

Start with the CPU only, just play with CPU vcore and LLC. You should read up on LLC.

Thanks! Reading an article/post or two on it now.

 

[JailDesigner]

I asked this some days ago and I want to know if things have changed (maybe I asked for an itx board then).

Are any m-atx skylake compatible motherboards available now?

I want to build a skylake cpu+gtx970/980 on a bitfenix phenom. Thanks in advance. I used to be aware of this things back in 2005 but now I feel old.

 

[LilJoka]

I asked this some days ago and I want to know if things have changed (maybe I asked for an itx board then).

Are any m-atx skylake compatible motherboards available now?

I want to build a skylake cpu+gtx970/980 on a bitfenix phenom. Thanks in advance. I used to be aware of this things back in 2005 but now I feel old.

There are ITX and mATX Z170 boards now.

 

[JailDesigner]

There are ITX and mATX Z170 boards now.

Oh I see, thanks. I'm going to order the case now and I will wait for january to ask for optimal components to fill it

 

[Shoyz]

From what I've read, it looks like the 'CRYORIG H7' cooler is comparable to the 212 EVO, but it looks a hundred times nicer.

But speaking of looking nice, I wish I had an unlimited budget to add a MSI Z170 Titanium, the nicest looking board of all time.

Well, until an air cooler goes on it (looking at amazon reviews). I wonder when such an outrageously expensive board is ever worth it.

 

[Shadowman16]

So after finally replacing my dead graphics card I'm finally using my PC again, I wanted to sort out another issue that I've been having for a few years now but never really looked into - I notice my PC gets kind of hot when playing games for a prolonged time, I opened my case and have been running it like that for a day or so as a test and it doesn't get hot, so the issue is heat getting stuck in the case.

Any suggestions as to the best way of solving this? I don't think its a ventilation issue, and I'm not sure if I have enough space left in the case to fit another fan to cool things down that way. Any suggestions would be appreciated

 

[Jharp]

Edit: ignore

 

[Coketruck]

I know this is kind of a weird request, but here goes:

I want to build a living room PC, primarily for gaming. Nothing incredibly high-end, just enough to play current and near-future games on high to very high graphics settings. I've already got a copy of Windows, a keyboard, mouse, and will be using my TV as a monitor.

Recently, a friend offered to give me his old office PC, because his firm was upgrading. The PC is a Dell Optiplex 390, built in 2013. From what I can tell from researching online, it has the following:

- Intel Quad Core i5 2400/3.10 GHz
- 4 GB DDR3 memory
- 1 PCIe x16 slot
- 3 PCI3 x1 slots

Is there any way I can turn this computer into something that fits my needs? I don't know much about building computers, but I assume I'll need another 4 GB of memory and a proper video card. Are there any other parts I would need? Thanks!

 

[RGM79]

I know this is kind of a weird request, but here goes:

I want to build a living room PC, primarily for gaming. Nothing incredibly high-end, just enough to play current and near-future games on high to very high graphics settings. I've already got a copy of Windows, a keyboard, mouse, and will be using my TV as a monitor.

Recently, a friend offered to give me his old office PC, because his firm was upgrading. The PC is a Dell Optiplex 390, built in 2013. From what I can tell from researching online, it has the following:

- Intel Quad Core i5 2400/3.10 GHz
- 4 GB DDR3 memory
- 1 PCIe x16 slot
- 3 PCI3 x1 slots

Is there any way I can turn this computer into something that fits my needs? I don't know much about building computers, but I assume I'll need another 4 GB of memory and a proper video card. Are there any other parts I would need? Thanks!

Which version of the Optiplex 390 do you have? If you have either of the smaller models, that will be difficult to work with due to the proprietary low wattage power supply.

 

[Jerm411]

So I'm a complete noob to PC building and in a lot of ways, PC gaming in general...

I was wanting to build one though and I'm just curious if there's a template or model out there for what I was wanting...basically I'm not looking for something that will produce a graphically tour de force, etc. I want a PC that can run games a lot of the Steam indies, MOBAs, RTS', MMOs, etc...and the occasional game like ARK or something of that nature and run them smooth.

I know this seems like a kind of vague or general idea but I'm hoping someone will see what I want and have some advice lol...

 

[Coketruck]

Which version of the Optiplex 390 do you have? If you have either of the smaller models, that will be difficult to work with due to the proprietary low wattage power supply.

Sorry, the MT version (the larger tower on the left side of that picture). Here's a link to a spec sheet I found for this model: http://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/optiplex-390-tech-guide.pdf

 

[Turrican3]

Hi guys, looking for advice on a new PC.
The old one isn't even worth mentioning: it's a trusty Core2 Duo dating back to 6 years ago... nothing to be reused here I guess, except an SSD that actually isn't even installed there.

So, here we go with the template.

Budget: around 5-600 euro, possibly less than that; I live in Italy, and I'd prefer not having to resort buying overseas
Main use: Gaming 4, Emulation maybe 2, Video Editing maybe 2, General Usage 3-4 (but I might just stuck with the old one for this). So basically a gaming PC ^_^
Resolution: console-style, HDready TV... so the idea is to be able to play current games at about 720p resolution (maybe 1080p should I decide to pick a new TV), but 60fps is a must. Not particularly interested in Supersampling and things like that
Parts reusing: I have a spare 120GB Samsung SSD, X360 wired pad, wireless mouse & keyboard (both USB).
Deadline: it would be nice if I could have everything ready to be assembled (I can do it by myself) before the end of the year
Overclocking: avoid if possible (I'd like to keep the thing as cool & quiet as possible)

PS: I'd like to go full digital (Steam, GOG, etc.) so I guess I can avoid picking a DVD drive... so if this can also save some space with the chassis I'd be totally fine with that: as I said, I basically want to build a PC able to run any currentgen multiplatform game 720p @60pfs, possibly 1080p @60fps should I pick a new TV... anyway, the smaller/cooler/quieter the better.

Thanks in advance

 

[Volotaire]

Hi!

I've got a project to work on to build a streaming capable PC (preferably 1080p) with a budget of about £800. I was wondering what improvements or changes could be made to my plan below. I would like the PC to be sustainable to stream for at least 3-4 years. Playing games at max settings is less of a priority with this machine. Emulation would be an advantage, specifically for Dolphin. The machine being optimal for video editing would also be an advantage. Given this, I thought a PC with a top end CPU would be advantageous for this build rather than the GPU. Portability is also a concern, so I tried to opt for a smaller Micro ATX case.

- Budget: £800, UK

- Main Use: As described above, streaming, emulation, gaming, video editing.

- Monitor Resolution: A 720p or 1080p projector.

- When will you build?: Can start purchasing: 11/01/16. Deadline: 27/01/16

- Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

Here are the components I have used as a framework for the moment:

Case: Fractal Design Node 804 Case or Bitfenix Prodigy M
Processor: Intel Core Skylake Processor i7-6700/3.4 GHz
CPU Heatsink: Cooler Master RR-212E-16PK-R1 Hyper 212 Evo
HDD: Western Digital Green WD30EZRX 3TB
GPU: MSI NVIDIA GTX 970 Gaming Twin Frozr HDMI DVI-I DP Graphics Card
Motherboard (Mini ATX): Asus Z170M-Plus Intel Z170
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 MHz
PSU: Corsair CXM Power Supply 600 W (Modular)
OS: Windows 10 Home 64Bit

No monitor is required.

Thanks in advance.

 

[shamanick]

I've put together a mid-range gaming PC that I think is pretty good. I'd like some advice about any bottlenecks or system problems that you experts can see. I'm happy to spend a little extra if it helps. Tell me what you think:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($296.00 @ shopRBC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.24 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: MSI H170A Gaming Pro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.25 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($85.08 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($429.98 @ NCIX)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($139.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Rosewill 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($93.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.08 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($122.00 @ shopRBC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($43.99 @ Canada Computers)
Monitor: Asus MG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor ($707.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($23.24 @ Vuugo)
Speakers: Logitech Z523 40W 2.1ch Speakers ($85.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $2481.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 11:05 EST-0500

 

[opticalmace]

I've put together a mid-range gaming PC that I think is pretty good. I'd like some advice about any bottlenecks or system problems that you experts can see. I'm happy to spend a little extra if it helps. Tell me what you think:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($296.00 @ shopRBC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.24 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: MSI H170A Gaming Pro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($173.25 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.88 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($85.08 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($429.98 @ NCIX)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($139.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Rosewill 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($93.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.08 @ Vuugo)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($122.00 @ shopRBC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($43.99 @ Canada Computers)
Monitor: Asus MG278Q 144Hz 27.0" Monitor ($707.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($23.24 @ Vuugo)
Speakers: Logitech Z523 40W 2.1ch Speakers ($85.98 @ DirectCanada)
Total: $2481.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 11:05 EST-0500

Some thoughts:
- for the small amount more, go for the 6600K and Z170 board.
- go for faster RAM, shouldn't be much more
- get an AMD card, such as the R9 390, so that you can use Freesync with that monitor.
- I'd go for a better PSU, maybe look into the EVGA G2 series
- I'm not a big fan of Seagate HDDs

 

[shamanick]

Some thoughts:
- for the small amount more, go for the 6600K and Z170 board.
- go for faster RAM, shouldn't be much more
- get an AMD card, such as the R9 390, so that you can use Freesync with that monitor.
- I'd go for a better PSU, maybe look into the EVGA G2 series
- I'm not a big fan of Seagate HDDs

Thanks for the advice. I was going to go Nvidia as I've had problems with AMD in the past. I thought this monitor was GSync so if not I will buy something comparable with GSync. Otherwise great advice, thanks a lot.

 

[RGM79]

Sorry, the MT version (the larger tower on the left side of that picture). Here's a link to a spec sheet I found for this model: http://www.dell.com/downloads/global/products/optix/en/optiplex-390-tech-guide.pdf

Alright, that's good. You're correct, a new graphics card and a total of 8GB of RAM would make it a decent middle range PC. However, after doing some research I'm confused but leaning towards no on a power supply upgrade for your 390, which would be needed to power higher end graphics cards. According to a chat I just had with a Dell representative, the 390 has a proprietary power supply and will not accept standard ATX power supplies. On the other hand, this person on the Dell forums reports that he was able to buy a standard ATX power supply from Best Buy and it worked in his case. Both pieces of information are at odds with each other, so I'd be hesistant to tell you to try a power supply upgrade unless you could return the power supply with minimal fuss.

The good news I do have is that your computer should be able to accept a graphics card like the GTX 750 Ti at best. This person was able to do what you're planning to do.

Hi!

I've got a project to work on to build a streaming capable PC (preferably 1080p) with a budget of about £800. I was wondering what improvements or changes could be made to my plan below. I would like the PC to be sustainable to stream for at least 3-4 years. Playing games at max settings is less of a priority with this machine. Emulation would be an advantage, specifically for Dolphin. The machine being optimal for video editing would also be an advantage. Given this, I thought a PC with a top end CPU would be advantageous for this build rather than the GPU. Portability is also a concern, so I tried to opt for a smaller Micro ATX case.

- Budget: £800, UK

- Main Use: As described above, streaming, emulation, gaming, video editing.

- Monitor Resolution: A 720p or 1080p projector.

- When will you build?: Can start purchasing: 11/01/16. Deadline: 27/01/16

- Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

Here are the components I have used as a framework for the moment:

Case: Fractal Design Node 804 Case or Bitfenix Prodigy M
Processor: Intel Core Skylake Processor i7-6700/3.4 GHz
CPU Heatsink: Cooler Master RR-212E-16PK-R1 Hyper 212 Evo
HDD: Western Digital Green WD30EZRX 3TB
GPU: MSI NVIDIA GTX 970 Gaming Twin Frozr HDMI DVI-I DP Graphics Card
Motherboard (Mini ATX): Asus Z170M-Plus Intel Z170
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 MHz
PSU: Corsair CXM Power Supply 600 W (Modular)
OS: Windows 10 Home 64Bit

No monitor is required.

Thanks in advance.

That's an alright parts list, but I would be concerned about putting the OS on the WD green drive. It's a slower drive with ~5200RPM speed and may prove to be a bottleneck, slowing down the OS and increasing loading times. Also, it's better to pair a K model overclockable processor with a Z170 motherboard. The i7 6700 you picked cannot be overclocked, you want the i7 6700K. Here what I recommend, based on your parts list:

http://imgur.com/Tmky8dz
1 x Toshiba DT01ACA 3TB, SATA 6Gb/s (DT01ACA300)
1 x Intel Core i7-6700K, 4x 4.00GHz, boxed without cooler (BX80662I76700K)
1 x GeIL Dragon RAM white IC DIMM kit 8GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-17-17-35 (GWW48GB3000C15DC)
1 x ASUS STRIX-R9380-DC2OC-4GD5-GAMING, Radeon R9 380, 4GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort (90YV08D2-M0NA00)
1 x ASUS Z170M-Plus (90MB0M60-M0EAY0)
1 x Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
1 x BitFenix Prodigy M black (BFC-PRM-300-KKXSK-RP)
1 x Cooler Master G650M 650W ATX 2.31 (RS-650-AMAAB1)
Total of all best prices: £ 783.59

 

[BossDarkseid]

Spent a while reading up on the things people recommended earlier, then very very carefully entered the settings into the AI Tweaker section of the bios, as I was told not to OC CPU + Ram at same time (makes sense). Save changes + restart.

Back to a random hang on the Asus logo screen.

Obviously I was able to revert to safe settings and things and boot to Win10 but does that give anyone any insight into what might be the problem? If it only hangs once any OC things have been done in the BIOS then...I mean it can't be THAT unstable can it?

The other thing I noticed that might...explain things to someone more knowledgeable than I is that even after "Load Optimized Defaults" it still hung on the Asus screen so I booted into the Bios again and changed the Dram frequency (or BLK, i think?) to 100:100, which is what made it work last time i had this problem (at the weekend...) and lo and behold it worked.

I don't know if that suggest something wrong with the ram or motherboard but...it's all I've got to go on at the moment.

And sorry for the many posts on the subject, but honestly I find it quite interesting and people here are more responsive + helpful as opposed to a website/manufacturer's customer support who usually pawn me off to another department.

 

[Z..]

Guys, what are the minimum specs I can go for and still have a machine capable of perfectly running Dolphin and PCSX2?

I was saving up for a 1000+, but I'll probably jump the gun and get something cheaper for myself this Xmas, though I'd like to spend as little as possible for now so I can keep saving for that big one.

 

[Granadier]

edit: edit

 

[LilJoka]

Spent a while reading up on the things people recommended earlier, then very very carefully entered the settings into the AI Tweaker section of the bios, as I was told not to OC CPU + Ram at same time (makes sense). Save changes + restart.

Back to a random hang on the Asus logo screen.

Obviously I was able to revert to safe settings and things and boot to Win10 but does that give anyone any insight into what might be the problem? If it only hangs once any OC things have been done in the BIOS then...I mean it can't be THAT unstable can it?

The other thing I noticed that might...explain things to someone more knowledgeable than I is that even after "Load Optimized Defaults" it still hung on the Asus screen so I booted into the Bios again and changed the Dram frequency (or BLK, i think?) to 100:100, which is what made it work last time i had this problem (at the weekend...) and lo and behold it worked.

I don't know if that suggest something wrong with the ram or motherboard but...it's all I've got to go on at the moment.

And sorry for the many posts on the subject, but honestly I find it quite interesting and people here are more responsive + helpful as opposed to a website/manufacturer's customer support who usually pawn me off to another department.

Just try something simple first like
All core multiplier x40
Bclk 100mhz
Bclk strap 1:1

And see if it boots.

What does load optimised defaults set the bclk strap to if not 100:100? Because it definitely should be that, this doesn't need adjusting.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Just try something simple first like
All core multiplier x40
Bclk 100mhz
Bclk strap 1:1

And see if it boots.

What does load optimised defaults set the bclk strap to if not 100:100? Because it definitely should be that, this doesn't need adjusting.

Err I think it just sets it to Auto. Which shouldn't really change anything but it's just weird. I'll try those settings and hopefully get back to you soon.

Edit: Set core multiplier to x40.
Bclk was already at 100, strap was on 1;1.

It boots. Which is both good and weird. this is like me learning to program and when it works and I don't know why being equally confusing to when it doesn't work at all.

However I wanted to use RealTemp or CPUZ to see the multiplier and at the moment CPU Z says x12.0 (12-34) and RealTemp says 100.00x12 at about 3.5% load...I assume to check if the multiplier was properly applied I would have to run some sort of stress test? Or would a game suit?

 

[LilJoka]

Err I think it just sets it to Auto. Which shouldn't really change anything but it's just weird. I'll try those settings and hopefully get back to you soon.

Edit: Set core multiplier to x40.
Bclk was already at 100, strap was on 1;1.

It boots. Which is both good and weird. this is like me learning to program and when it works and I don't know why being equally confusing to when it doesn't work at all.

However I wanted to use RealTemp or CPUZ to see the multiplier and at the moment CPU Z says x12.0 (12-34) and RealTemp says 100.00x12 at about 3.5% load...I assume to check if the multiplier was properly applied I would have to run some sort of stress test? Or would a game suit?

A lot of boards auto overclock slightly so, it's actually always better to manually set these things.

You need to stress the CPU to test it, you can use somethin like realbench, cinebench or aida64 stress test.

 

[BossDarkseid]

A lot of boards auto overclock slightly so, it's actually always better to manually set these things.

You need to stress the CPU to test it, you can use somethin like realbench, cinebench or aida64 stress test.

Cool. I'll probably set that up then go read something and calm down

I did launch dragon age origins, just as something random to see if the multiplier changed on CPU Z and RealTemp and both showed it going to x40 briefly before settling on about x21-22.

Edit: stress test with RealBench 2.4 is underway. Only doing a short one for now. Out of interest if it fails this somehow would it suggest I got a bad luck with the CPU?

Second Edit: Ran a 15min stress test via RealBench w/16gb RAM. 4x Result Hash Match! (whatever that means?) and it said Stress Test Passed at the end. Max temps were about 55-58. I figure I could run a 30 minute test in a bit, don't really have time for a much longer one now. Running a 30min test now. If people reccomend it i'll do a 1-2 hour one tomorrow.

 

[Unai]

So... I'm ready to finally upgrade the stock cooler of my i7 2700k and hopefully do some overclock later on. But I want a quiet cooler. What do you guys recommend? I was thinking about the H100i.

 

[Agraavan]

That's a decent sized case, you don't really have much to worry about, you won't even need an aftermarket CPU cooler unless you don't mind getting one for lower load temperatures and a bit quieter fan noise. Well, $500 is quite a lot for just a processor, motherboard, and maybe a CPU cooler. This will suit you just fine if you don't need the ability to overclock:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $293.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-14 22:47 EST-0500

Or if you don't mind spending up to $500 and a bit over, maybe go with brand new Skylake parts including RAM and CPU cooler.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($289.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $519.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-14 22:51 EST-0500

First of all, thank you for your quick reply.

Having said that, I'm a little confused here. Why were your first suggestion so "low tier" (are they?) items? Are those more compatible (power wise) with the rest of my rig? Wouldn't they became obsolete/outdated pretty quickly?

I ask that because the second recomendation is closer to the budget I mentioned earlier, but it include Memories also. Would it be "too much/overkill"? Could I just ignore the memories and keep mine as it is?

I'm sorry to make such questions, but I intend to keep the new pieces for some ~4 years (yeah, I'm that stingy), so I want to make sure I'm not gonna regret it sometime soon.

 

[Rand0m TAG]

anyone can recommend me a good monitor under $200 canadian?

 

[Mr. Robot]

I need some help guys with my PSU or GPU, i put an R9 390 on my pc and a EVGA 750w PSU, the first time i started the pc, the cpu and gpu fans turned on but i wasnt getting any video and it seemed like the mouse/kb didnt get any power, i tought it was the GPU so i took it out but it wasnt working neither, i switched out the ram sticks to the secondary slots and could boot with onboard video or using my older gpu, then i put the 390 again and couldnt boot... Now, the PSU is semi modular and comes with the MB CPU and GPU cables hardwired into the unit, i tried using the extra set of gpu cables and attached them to the PSU and the 390 GPU, and the computer seems to work fine everything gets powered and i can post to windows, or at least try to, since while i was messing with the settings using onboard video windows 10 showed me an "inaccessible boot device" error, im gonna try to reinstall Win10 when i get home but...
How can i know if its the PSU or the GPU that is causing trouble, i guess that its the PSU, but can it also be that my GPU is bad and is drawing more power than usual?

So I'm a complete noob to PC building and in a lot of ways, PC gaming in general...

I was wanting to build one though and I'm just curious if there's a template or model out there for what I was wanting...basically I'm not looking for something that will produce a graphically tour de force, etc. I want a PC that can run games a lot of the Steam indies, MOBAs, RTS', MMOs, etc...and the occasional game like ARK or something of that nature and run them smooth.

I know this seems like a kind of vague or general idea but I'm hoping someone will see what I want and have some advice lol...

That is pretty vague, do you have a budget? anyway, i would recommend an i3 + r9 280/gtx 960, i have an i3 and the advantage it has over the pentiums is that it can run games that require a quad core.

 

[OraleeWey]

A friend of mine is testing the waters right now. I came up with this. $550 gaming machine. He'll probably build in a month or so if he decides to come to USA. Otherwise, does anyone know a website to purchase parts in Mexico? Everything is so expensive out there.


Any concerns?


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 280X 3GB TurboDuo Video Card ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $470.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 14:42 EST-0500


Edit: $550 before mail in rebates

 

[Lys Skygge]

If you are over clocked, make sure you are stable! I had some problems manifest over time with an unstable overclock, one being system freezes and locks.

Yeah I just reverted to default settings for now. However, apparently Adobe Photoshop CCs update a few days ago was causing some crashes. They just released a new update last night so hopefully that'll help.

 

[Pacotez]

I was thinking about going for i3-4170+h97m and the Haz's PC Build Sheet suggests asrock motherboards.
Why asrock and not gigabyte or asus?

 

[RGM79]

First of all, thank you for your quick reply.

Having said that, I'm a little confused here. Why were your first suggestion so "low tier" (are they?) items? Are those more compatible (power wise) with the rest of my rig? Wouldn't they became obsolete/outdated pretty quickly?

I ask that because the second recomendation is closer to the budget I mentioned earlier, but it include Memories also. Would it be "too much/overkill"? Could I just ignore the memories and keep mine as it is?

I'm sorry to make such questions, but I intend to keep the new pieces for some ~4 years (yeah, I'm that stingy), so I want to make sure I'm not gonna regret it sometime soon.

No worries. They're not so much "low tier" as they are "cost effective". You said you had no plans to overclock, so those are some of the better choices for non-overclocking oriented parts there are. Of course, you could always choose to get the flagship i7 4790K processor and Z97 motherboard and not overclock them, but that sort of defeats the purpose of getting more expensive overclockable parts (they do offer slightly higher stock performance than the parts I suggested at first, though).

The second set of recommendations are for Intel's latest Skylake parts, and can be overclocked. For best results, they should be used with DDR4 RAM, so I don't recommend reusing your existing DDR3 RAM with it. There are some Skylake motherboards that accept DDR3 RAM, but it is unknown if there are any long term problems running DDR3 RAM with Skylake as Skylake is intended to be used with lower voltage DDR4 and DDR3L RAM. Also, DDR3 RAM may bottleneck Skylake processors, although this will depend heavily on what you're doing with the PC and other factors.

It's totally reasonable to expect to keep a decent processor and motherboard around for 4 years. A middle ground between the two earlier suggestions would be this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $407.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 15:07 EST-0500

anyone can recommend me a good monitor under $200 canadian?

Are there any specific features you're looking for? Size, etc?

I need some help guys with my PSU or GPU, i put an R9 390 on my pc and a EVGA 750w PSU, the first time i started the pc, the cpu and gpu fans turned on but i wasnt getting any video and it seemed like the mouse/kb didnt get any power, i tought it was the GPU so i took it out but it wasnt working neither, i switched out the ram sticks to the secondary slots and could boot with onboard video or using my older gpu, then i put the 390 again and couldnt boot... Now, the PSU is semi modular and comes with the MB CPU and GPU cables hardwired into the unit, i tried using the extra set of gpu cables and attached them to the PSU and the 390 GPU, and the computer seems to work fine everything gets powered and i can post to windows, or at least try to, since while i was messing with the settings using onboard video windows 10 showed me an "inaccessible boot device" error, im gonna try to reinstall Win10 when i get home but...
How can i know if its the PSU or the GPU that is causing trouble, i guess that its the PSU, but can it also be that my GPU is bad and is drawing more power than usual?

Sounds like your GPU was missing the extra power cables at first. The error message "inaccessible boot device" has nothing to do with the GPU, it has to do with the storage drive you have Windows on. It's possible that you may have accidentally changed some BIOS setting that has to do with storage drives, or you accidentally unplugged the drive itself. In any case, it doesn't sound like your GPU has any problems.

A friend of mine is testing the waters right now. I came up with this. $550 gaming machine. He'll probably build in a month or so if he decides to come to USA. Otherwise, does anyone know a website to purchase parts in Mexico? Everything is so expensive out there.

Any concerns?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 280X 3GB TurboDuo Video Card ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $470.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 14:42 EST-0500

Edit: $550 before mail in rebates

This should be a better performing build for a similar cost.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4170 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 380 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Total before rebates: $554.92
Total: $508.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 15:19 EST-0500

AMD's not recommended. An Intel i3 processor can provide better performance for most games.

 

[BossDarkseid]

After getting a 4ghz overclock...tomorrow I will run a 1hr test on it and providing it passes would it be good to start increasing the multiplier by one to see where my limit is in my current voltage? Then start looking into increasing voltage and llc (?) and running a stress test at each level.

Does that sound sensible?

 

[Rand0m TAG]

not looking for anything specific. just a good/decent gaming monitor for around 200$
size: 23"-24" nothing too big or small

wasnt satisfied with my samsung and want to upgrade it (about 3 years old)

how is this one:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236594&leaderboard=1

 

[opticalmace]

not looking for anything specific. just a good/decent gaming monitor for around 200$
size: 23"-24" nothing too big or small

wasnt satisfied with my samsung and want to upgrade it (about 3 years old)

What size and resolution is your samsung?

 

[OraleeWey]

This should be a better performing build for a similar cost.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4170 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($49.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 380 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Total before rebates: $554.92
Total: $508.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-15 15:19 EST-0500

AMD's not recommended. An Intel i3 processor can provide better performance for most games.

Sweet. Didn't know that about AMD. For future reference, are there any AMD CPU's that are worth it?

 

[Rand0m TAG]

What size and resolution is your samsung?

about 24". resolution isnt bad. just monitor quality is shit. flickers alot. color seems washed out. just not happy with it...

 

[Barzul]

So I upgraded yesterday from an i5 4570s 2.9ghz to an i7 4790k at 4.0Ghz. Holy cow if the difference in fps (looking at you Fallout 4) hasn't been been a bit mind blowing for me.

 

[opticalmace]

So I upgraded yesterday from an i5 4570s 2.9ghz to an i7 4790k at 4.0Ghz. Holy cow if the difference in fps hasn't been been a bit mind blowing for me.

Nice. What games? What are the rest of your specs?

edit: 1080p?

 

[Crisium]

Sweet. Didn't know that about AMD. For future reference, are there any AMD CPU's that are worth it?

None for gaming. For every game where a stock 8350 might equal a stock 2500K, there's games where AMD CPUs just lag behind and of course Intel always overclocks higher. Fingers crossed that Zen next year actually offers a reasonable alternative.

 

[Mr. Robot]

Sounds like your GPU was missing the extra power cables at first. The error message "inaccessible boot device" has nothing to do with the GPU, it has to do with the storage drive you have Windows on. It's possible that you may have accidentally changed some BIOS setting that has to do with storage drives, or you accidentally unplugged the drive itself. In any case, it doesn't sound like your GPU has any problems.

Thanks, it didn't occurred me that i may have unplugged the hdd, also what i meant was that the PSU comes with the hardwired 8pin + 6pin cables which i connected, but also comes with extra modular cables for xfire/sli, it's strange since everything powers but it just wont post with the hardwired cables, only the extra slots/cables on the psu seem to work with the gpu and boot to windows (to get the drive error).

 

[OraleeWey]

None for gaming. For every game where a stock 8350 might equal a stock 2500K, there's games where AMD CPUs just lag behind and of course Intel always overclocks higher. Fingers crossed that Zen next year actually offers a reasonable alternative.

Alright. Got it.

 

[LilJoka]

Cool. I'll probably set that up then go read something and calm down

I did launch dragon age origins, just as something random to see if the multiplier changed on CPU Z and RealTemp and both showed it going to x40 briefly before settling on about x21-22.

Edit: stress test with RealBench 2.4 is underway. Only doing a short one for now. Out of interest if it fails this somehow would it suggest I got a bad luck with the CPU?

Second Edit: Ran a 15min stress test via RealBench w/16gb RAM. 4x Result Hash Match! (whatever that means?) and it said Stress Test Passed at the end. Max temps were about 55-58. I figure I could run a 30 minute test in a bit, don't really have time for a much longer one now. Running a 30min test now. If people reccomend it i'll do a 1-2 hour one tomorrow.

What clock speed, what Vcore in CPUz under load and what are the temps?

 

[RGM79]

I was thinking about going for i3-4170+h97m and the Haz's PC Build Sheet suggests asrock motherboards.
Why asrock and not gigabyte or asus?

What's wrong with ASRock? Don't like their customer service? You can choose Gigabyte, Asus, or MSI if you prefer.

Sweet. Didn't know that about AMD. For future reference, are there any AMD CPU's that are worth it?

All of AMD's FX line are around 3 years old now and for gaming, it's not too competitive with Intel's offerings. If you were going to be using the PC strictly for multi-threaded work then it'd be a better bet than a dual core i3 processor, but otherwise not really. Some AMD APUs are a great choice for a low budget build without a graphics card because their integrated graphics are much more capable than Intel's integrated graphics, but otherwise no.

Thanks, it didn't occurred me that i may have unplugged the hdd, also what i meant was that the PSU comes with the hardwired 8pin + 6pin cables which i connected, but also comes with extra modular cables for xfire/sli, it's strange since everything powers but it just wont post with the hardwired cables, only the extra slots/cables on the psu seem to work with the gpu and boot to windows (to get the drive error).

The R9 390 can draw a lot of wattage. What PSU model do you have? It could be that trying to power the R9 390 with just the hardwired cables proved too much for that 12V line, using separate cables to power the R9 390 would have balanced the load across other 12V lines.