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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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daxy

Member
I don't know where else to ask this, but here goes.

I've got a Gigabyte 970 G1 (rev 1.1), ASIC quality of 79.8 and Samsung memory. On the surface, it would seem it should overclock well. Bumped power limit to 112%. Memory, as expected, overclocks really well and runs fine even at values over 8000 MHz, I stopped testing at +550. However, running Unigine Valley I'm getting artifacting from just +80 to core clock speeds. GPU-Z's readout is also telling me TDP never goes higher than 75%. I'm surprised that core clock doesn't want to go much higher than this as +120-150 seems to be safe overclocks for many other 970 G1's and I don't appear to be stressing the GPU very much going by the power consumption.

Am I doing something wrong? Or did the silicon lottery fuck me over somewhere that's not reflected in numerical values? This is the first time I've delved into overclocking my GPU so I'm a bit out of my element. If relevant, PSU is a Cooler Master V650 (80+ gold).
 

mcmmaster

Member
I'm thinking of upgrading my old build from 3-4 years ago to a 1400p build, i'm not that well versed in PC hardware so any assistance would be appreciated.

Basically just want to know what parts of my build would need upgrading for a 1400p set up. I know the GPU is in much need of an upgrade and i'm not that sure on what card to go for, maybe GTX 980, but is their anything else that would need updating?

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z68X-UD5
Memory: 16GB DDR3 1333mhz (4x4GB)
GPU: GTX 680 (2GB)
PSU: 650W Corsair TX

Thanks
 

ISee

Member
Anyone here knows how to clone a W10 installation in a hdd to a ssd?
Also, should I do it? Or should I clean install on the new drive? There seems to be some problems with cloning.

Cloning isn't an issue today.
When it comes to tools: most companies offer free, good working programs. They are easy to use and reliable.


Intel Data Migration Software

Samsung Data Migration Software
OCZ Toolbox


In case there is no 'free' software provided by your ssd manufacturer you can use the Arconis True Image Software. Normally it costs 50€ but there is also a 30 days trial offer. More then enough time to clone one system drive.

There are also some free tool out there.
 

inner-G

Banned
I'm about to have a meltdown GAF.

Mobo #3 isn't working. (MSI z170a krait)

CPU/DRAM LEDs alternately blink but no post. Tried RAM in any/all slots

I might cave and take it to a shop to have them get it running :( My fingers hurt and I'm going crazy
 

Clunker

Member
1) you don't need to have any concerns here

2) both will be fine, yes they are regular PCs

3) Intel nuc is excellent device, especially if you get one with built in IR, that is a perfect HTPC with either an external disk or network storage access. But Nuc is no good for gaming.

Alpha definitely is a good choice here.

Nothing has changed in terms of building PCs, you might want to look at Thin mini ITX builds.
Cool, thanks for the input - any opinions on which build of the Alienware Alpha to go with? I'm not sure if I should go for the $599 model with 8GB and 1TB drive or instead go for the stock $499 and spend the money on a new SSD instead.

Also, any good recs for a wireless keyboard/trackpad combo unit? I think I saw one linked in the OP but any other suggestions would be great.
 
So- I am selling my gaming laptop. Going to build a new desktop for gaming. The Warden, I mean wife, has green lit me so I am a go. I am trying to keep with one vendor and can't use Newegg because they have an office in Tennessee and I don't want to play sales tax. I am also okay with Amazon since I get free 2-day shipping with Prime.

Here is what I came up with using the spreadsheet in the OP. Using NCIX US as preferred vendor:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor $251.08

Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $39.99

Motherboard:Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $124.99

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory $74.99

Storage: A-Data Premier Pro SP900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $57.98
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $59.88

Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card $659.99

Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case $40.99

Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $89.99

Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer $26.98

OS: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-kw900140 Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) $89.99

$1516.85

Thoughts? I'd like to keep it around $1500.

And I want to not have to find a tweak guide for every game I play to get decent FPS. I play primarily flight simulators- DCS A10, ARMA 3, etc.

EDIT: Also, I'm not familiar with gsync? Do I need a specific monitor to have it enabled, does it provide value, etc?

EDIT EDIT: Is it worth the extra $50 to get the i5-6600 over the i5-4690k?
At your budget you should definitely go Skylake, get the 6600k. I'd do a build but I'm on mobile right now.
 
I'm thinking of upgrading my old build from 3-4 years ago to a 1400p build, i'm not that well versed in PC hardware so any assistance would be appreciated.

Basically just want to know what parts of my build would need upgrading for a 1400p set up. I know the GPU is in much need of an upgrade and i'm not that sure on what card to go for, maybe GTX 980, but is their anything else that would need updating?

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z68X-UD5
Memory: 16GB DDR3 1333mhz (4x4GB)
GPU: GTX 680 (2GB)
PSU: 650W Corsair TX

Thanks

I'm in a similar boat as you, but opted to keep my 2600K after exploring Skylake. For gaming, there just isn't much benefit in upgrading from the 2600K to the 6700K. I'd personally skip the 980 and go 980ti. Everything else looks reasonable to me if you're just gaming.
 
I'm thinking of upgrading my old build from 3-4 years ago to a 1400p build, i'm not that well versed in PC hardware so any assistance would be appreciated.

Basically just want to know what parts of my build would need upgrading for a 1400p set up. I know the GPU is in much need of an upgrade and i'm not that sure on what card to go for, maybe GTX 980, but is their anything else that would need updating?

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z68X-UD5
Memory: 16GB DDR3 1333mhz (4x4GB)
GPU: GTX 680 (2GB)
PSU: 650W Corsair TX

Thanks
All you really need to do is buy a 980 Ti and overclock your CPU if you haven't already.
 

mcmmaster

Member
I'm in a similar boat as you, but opted to keep my 2600K after exploring Skylake. For gaming, there just isn't much benefit in upgrading from the 2600K to the 6700K. I'd personally skip the 980 and go 980ti. Everything else looks reasonable to me if you're just gaming.

All you really need to do is buy a 980 Ti and overclock your CPU if you haven't already.

Nice, was worrying about having to cash out in multiple areas but if I can get away with just upgrading the GPU then sweet. I did have a gander at the 980 Ti so i'll likely go for it now, my CPU is overclocked to 4.4Ghz so that should be set.

Thanks again, now to browse some 1400p monitors.
 
At your budget you should definitely go Skylake, get the 6600k. I'd do a build but I'm on mobile right now.


I was thinking the same thing. Here is what I came up with:

PartPicker List

CPU: i5-6600k
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000
Storage: A-Data Premier Pro SP900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive and Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card
Case: Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer

Comes to $1582, tax included. All on Amazon, free 2 day shipping.

I've had some help on here about sourcing a cheaper version of Windows 8 Pro I can upgrade to 10, so I dropped the $100 OS cost. So the total is about $130 over my last post, but I gain the 6600K and DDR4 RAM.
 

kami_sama

Member
Cloning isn't an issue today.
When it comes to tools: most companies offer free, good working programs. They are easy to use and reliable.


Intel Data Migration Software

Samsung Data Migration Software
OCZ Toolbox


In case there is no 'free' software provided by your ssd manufacturer you can use the Arconis True Image Software. Normally it costs 50€ but there is also a 30 days trial offer. More then enough time to clone one system drive.

There are also some free tool out there.

Thank you. I suppose I'm going to use the Samsung one, as the ssd is from them.
I though Windows made some things different if you used an hdd or an ssd, like not defragmenting, for example.
 
Okay, I ended up squeezing some bucks out of my intended budget with some Amazon gift cards I had lying around.

I'm about to pull the trigger on this. Anything I'm not taking into account in terms of incompatibilities, bad future-proofing, etc.?

- EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC Gaming ACX 2.0+ Cooling Graphics Card (04G-P4-3975-KR)
- Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H170 ATX DDR4 Motherboard GA-H170-D3HP
- Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E500B/AM)
- Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K 3.50 GHz, 6 M Processor Cache 6 for LGA 1151 (BX80662I56600K)
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)
- G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4 17000) Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-2133C15D-16GVR
- Arctic Silver Ceramique Premium High Density Thermal Compound 2.7g (Do I actually need to buy this separately, or can I assume it will ship with my CPU and/or cooler?)

I'm reusing my case, power supply, optical drive, and additional hard drives.
 
I'm about to have a meltdown GAF.

Mobo #3 isn't working. (MSI z170a krait)

CPU/DRAM LEDs alternately blink but no post. Tried RAM in any/all slots

I might cave and take it to a shop to have them get it running :( My fingers hurt and I'm going crazy

Would laugh if it wasn't your motherboards the whole time.
 
- Arctic Silver Ceramique Premium High Density Thermal Compound 2.7g (Do I actually need to buy this separately, or can I assume it will ship with my CPU and/or cooler?)

I'm reusing my case, power supply, optical drive, and additional hard drives.

There is some thermal paste that comes with the cm Hyper 212 Evo, though I don't know how good it is. Like you, I bought my own.
 

ISee

Member
I don't know where else to ask this, but here goes.

I've got a Gigabyte 970 G1 (rev 1.1), ASIC quality of 79.8 and Samsung memory. On the surface, it would seem it should overclock well. Bumped power limit to 112%. Memory, as expected, overclocks really well and runs fine even at values over 8000 MHz, I stopped testing at +550. However, running Unigine Valley I'm getting artifacting from just +80 to core clock speeds. GPU-Z's readout is also telling me TDP never goes higher than 75%. I'm surprised that core clock doesn't want to go much higher than this as +120-150 seems to be safe overclocks for many other 970 G1's and I don't appear to be stressing the GPU very much going by the power consumption.

Am I doing something wrong? Or did the silicon lottery fuck me over somewhere that's not reflected in numerical values? This is the first time I've delved into overclocking my GPU so I'm a bit out of my element. If relevant, PSU is a Cooler Master V650 (80+ gold).

Forget about ASIC quality, it's more or less useless. Also do not look at what other people post on forums or show on YT as stable overclocks. Often enough it's not true or they just managed to record a lucky, stable run. +150mhz is an amazing increase and not standard at all (without further voltage tweaking). Artifacts and driver resets are always an indication for unstable overclocking, so yes your OC isn't stable at all.

Your increased Power Limit doesn't allow for more overclocking because it doesn't seem to hold you back in the first place. 'Power Limit' is more or less a combination of wattage control and max. temperature control (if you do not separate them). So by increasing your power limit you allow your card to reach a higher temperature and to draw more juice before it has to throttle down. But as you said your TDP doesn't even go over 75%, so going from 100% to 112% isn't even necessary.

So what's the problem then?
1.) Could be your memory. Again do not listen to what people claim to be able to achieve, most of it is exaggerated.
Artifacts tend to appear because of overheating memory. Memory chips do not report their temperatures, so you really have no clue about their condition and often enough you do not even notice any kind of problems till they're dead.
2.)It's really your core clock and you 'simply' need to increase voltage. But watch out, an increase in voltage will increase temperatures and it may harm your card especially your card longevity. Many overclockers claim that even +87mv isn't dangerous at all, still less voltage is always preferable and just going for the maximum value isn't the way to go.

In general, when you try to overclock:
1. ) Try to find a stable clock speed first (no memory increase, no increased power limit, no extra voltage, no artifacts, no crashes, no driver resets). Check your TDP if it is near 99%-100% you most probably need to increase your power limit to be able to hold the clock speed under heavy, steady load. But watch out increasing your power limit will most probably prevent your GPU from downclocking at 80°C to protect itself and temperatures may go above 80°C (not recommended at all! Temperatures over 80°C can and will harm your card.)

2.) If you want to go for an even higher clock speed, you'll have to increase your voltage. When it comes to voltage, the lower the better.

3.) Increase your memory clock. Again watch out for artifacts and instability and keep in mind there is no way to check memory temperatures so do not aim for the absolute maximum.

4.) Do not test with just one benchmark for stability/artifacts. Use 3D Mark, an ungine benchmark and a demanding game. The more testing, the better and do not be disappointed if your oc is stable in one game/benchmark and unstable in an other.

Thank you. I suppose I'm going to use the Samsung one, as the ssd is from them.
I though Windows made some things different if you used an hdd or an ssd, like not defragmenting, for example.

That's right Win 10 will auto disable defragmentation for SSDs and if you bought a samsung SSD then using their software is 100% the way to go. It works very well.
 

Mattdaddy

Gold Member
My old ass gaming pc has been shutting off cold turkey while gaming lately. I mean just BAM all goes black like someone pulled the cord out of the wall. I can then reboot fine like nothing happened, but it only does it while gaming. Is my power supply dying?? Or yall think it could be something else?

I was just going to get a new power supply but wanted to double check your thoughts first.
 
Looks good but this one has better specs on paper. I'm looking to buy it as a second.

http://us.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.QR0AA.001

Yeah but it costs significantly (at least for me) more for just being a slight bit better on paper. I tend to get what is a good value rather than what is a great part..

The AOC looks really boss too :)



Not saying they're all like that, but I tried to save money and buy an AOC IPS before and it had terrible backlight bleed.

Well.. Every brand has good and bad monitors.. I've done a lot of review reading on this, and ended up ordering it tonight. I'll let you all know my experience with it.
 

ISee

Member
My old ass gaming pc has been shutting off cold turkey while gaming lately. I mean just BAM all goes black like someone pulled the cord out of the wall. I can then reboot fine like nothing happened, but it only does it while gaming. Is my power supply dying?? Or yall think it could be something else?

I was just going to get a new power supply but wanted to double check your thoughts first.

Just while gaming? Yeah most probably your power supply.
 

e90Mark

Member
Well, board #2 ran Windows for a while, so I think the parts are good. I have 2400 ram which may be being weird in the z170 boards

Have you checked if the RAM you got was in the QVL (qualified vendors list) for the mobo(s)? This generally doesn't matter, but I guess it's one less variable.

Default speed is 2133 and the RAM won't run at 2400 without the XMP profile.
 

Mattdaddy

Gold Member
Just while gaming? Yeah most probably your power supply.

Yeah I mean I don't do a lot of other system heavy things, mainly just surf the web and use MS Office... but its fine doing any of those. But when I'm trying to game it just dies (after anywhere from 30 min to a few hours of playing). Getting pretty frequent with it too.
 
Well, board #2 ran Windows for a while, so I think the parts are good. I have 2400 ram which may be being weird in the z170 boards

I literally bought the cheapest z170 board I could find and it starts at 2133 even though I had 2666 memory. Your ram speed is always going to be 2133 until you change it.

You could try underclocking your cpu and ram and seeing if it will load windows.
 

Quote

Member
My EVGA 980 Ti has terrible coil whine with 70fps+ and after gaming a bit on more intensive games like MGS5, a random blue horizontal line will quickly flash in different places. I've checked temps and the GPU never goes over 65c

Is there any chance that both of these issues are from my PSU? I have a pretty old (5+ years) PSU that is probably 750 watt. I have a couple fans and AOI cooler.
 

ISee

Member
Yeah I mean I don't do a lot of other system heavy things, mainly just surf the web and use MS Office... but its fine doing any of those. But when I'm trying to game it just dies (after anywhere from 30 min to a few hours of playing). Getting pretty frequent with it too.

A hard shutdown is happening to prevent damage or because the PSU isn't able to supply enough power for the whole rig to run. So your CPU could be overheating or something on your mainboard etc. so checking for temperatures and cleaning heatpipes and coolers isn't a bad idea. But in most cases it's the PSU.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks a lot for the recs! Is there an Nvidia card that is comparable in price and performance?

The GTX 970 would be the equivalent, but decent models with a nice cooler go for around $30 more. This Zotac model for $304 is the cheapest I'd recommend. Otherwise this EVGA GTX 970 model for $310 after $25 rebate is better in terms of clock speed and features (silent fan mode).

Anyone here knows how to clone a W10 installation in a hdd to a ssd?
Also, should I do it? Or should I clean install on the new drive? There seems to be some problems with cloning.

I've used this guide, it's worked for me and a few other people in this thread.
 

Mattdaddy

Gold Member
A hard shutdown is happening to prevent damage or because the PSU isn't able to supply enough power for the whole rig to run. So your CPU could be overheating or something on your mainboard etc. so checking for temperatures and cleaning heatpipes and coolers isn't a bad idea. But in most cases it's the PSU.

Awesome ill check that out, thanks
 

ISee

Member
My EVGA 980 Ti has terrible coil whine with 70fps+ and after gaming a bit on more intensive games like MGS5, a random blue horizontal line will quickly flash in different places. I've checked temps and the GPU never goes over 65c

Is there any chance that both of these issues are from my PSU? I have a pretty old (5+ years) PSU that is probably 750 watt. I have a couple fans and AOI cooler.

Coil whine can be PSU related, but the current GPU generation (and this goes for AMD and NVIDIA) seems to be prone to coil whine (independent of manufacturer, PSU or general card quality) especially during high fps situations. You could try to change your PSU or even exchange your card but there is no guarantee. In general coil whine won't damage your system or gpu.

The random blue line on the other side doesn't sound good at all. Did you OC your card? If so, try to go back to stock clocks.
 
Okay, I ended up squeezing some bucks out of my intended budget with some Amazon gift cards I had lying around.

I'm about to pull the trigger on this. Anything I'm not taking into account in terms of incompatibilities, bad future-proofing, etc.?

- EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC Gaming ACX 2.0+ Cooling Graphics Card (04G-P4-3975-KR)
- Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H170 ATX DDR4 Motherboard GA-H170-D3HP
- Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E500B/AM)
- Intel Boxed Core I5-6600K 3.50 GHz, 6 M Processor Cache 6 for LGA 1151 (BX80662I56600K)
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)
- G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2133 (PC4 17000) Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-2133C15D-16GVR
- Arctic Silver Ceramique Premium High Density Thermal Compound 2.7g (Do I actually need to buy this separately, or can I assume it will ship with my CPU and/or cooler?)

I'm reusing my case, power supply, optical drive, and additional hard drives.
Get a Z170 motherboard so you can overclock. Also get faster ram, maybe 2800 or 3000.
 

Risev1

Member
Hey guys. So I'm planning on ordering the 980ti soon, and I'm still rocking an I7-3770k CPU since about 3 years ago. I never got into overclocking my CPU, but I'm wondering if it's worth it at all? what sort of fps boost am I looking at if I OC'd to about 4.4/4.5? I'm talking about games like Witcher 3 and Far Cry 4.

Is it worth overclocking my CPU, or running at stock speeds is enough?
 

Exuro

Member
Thoughts on the i5 6600k vs i7 4790k? I really want to upgrade from my i7 920 and am stuck between these two. The first I can get for $225 while the later $280. With the skylake processor I'd need to get 8GB ddr4 ram as well. I don't do any video editing but I have been doing a bit of blender rendering lately and I'm not sure how beneficial the extra threads are. Playing games of course too with a gtx 770. I'd get the 6700k but its crazy expensive right now.
 

Mohasus

Member
Question about the H100i.

Doing some tests with Intel XTU and the difference between quiet mode and max speed -not performance mode- was only 3ºC and a ton of noise (64ºC vs 67ºC), is this normal or I messed up the installation of the WC somehow?

Actually, I'll try some stress test now, as the benchmark is kinda short (a couple of minutes I think).
 

shira

Member
Just a simple question
JjvFqqI.png

- I have 3 monitors with USB ports.
- will they act as USB 2.0 hubs if I connect them to my PC

Not sure if I need to buy a dedicated hub or just a few USB-B cable
 
I know there are a million build questions in here but this is the first PC I've built in a long time, so how does this look (I needed another monitor but it'll probably be hooked up to my tv most of the time)?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($74.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($94.80 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Chaser A71 ATX Full Tower Case ($117.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($159.00 @ B&H)
Total: $1361.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 20:15 EST-0500


Does anyone think I need to throw a couple of case fans in as well?
 

RGM79

Member
Thoughts on the i5 6600k vs i7 4790k? I really want to upgrade from my i7 920 and am stuck between these two. The first I can get for $225 while the later $280. With the skylake processor I'd need to get 8GB ddr4 ram as well. I don't do any video editing but I have been doing a bit of blender rendering lately and I'm not sure how beneficial the extra threads are. Playing games of course too with a gtx 770. I'd get the 6700k but its crazy expensive right now.

What are your complete current specs? How much do you have to spend and where are you buying the parts? With the money saved from the cheaper i5 6600K, there would be enough to get 8GB of DDR4, assuming USD.

Question about the H100i.

Doing some tests with Intel XTU and the difference between quiet mode and max speed -not performance mode- was only 3ºC and a ton of noise (64ºC vs 67ºC), is this normal or I messed up the installation of the WC somehow?

Actually, I'll try some stress test now, as the benchmark is kinda short (a couple of minutes I think).

Guru3D and Bit-Tech also only found a 3 degree C difference when testing quiet and maximum modes. Hardware Secrets found a 4 degree C difference. I don't think the louder fan noise is worth running it in max mode.

Just a simple question
JjvFqqI.png

- I have 3 monitors with USB ports.
- will they act as USB 2.0 hubs if I connect them to my PC

Not sure if I need to buy a dedicated hub or just a few USB-B cable

Yes, they are USB hubs. All you need to do is connect the monitors to your PC via USB 2.0 A-B cables.

I know there are a million build questions in here but this is the first PC I've built in a long time, so how does this look (I needed another monitor but it'll probably be hooked up to my tv most of the time)?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($74.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($164.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($94.80 @ Amazon)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Chaser A71 ATX Full Tower Case ($117.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0" Monitor ($159.00 @ B&H)
Total: $1361.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 20:15 EST-0500

Does anyone think I need to throw a couple of case fans in as well?

If interested in overclocking, I suggest you move up to the i5 6600K. Otherwise the i5 6500 is also unofficially capable of overclocking, but it's not as user-friendly as overclocking with a K model processor. There are also some other slight changes to be made if you want greater performance for the price. This is what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($263.48 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($115.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.59 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case ($70.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.50 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer V246HQL Cbd 60Hz 23.6" Monitor ($110.16 @ Amazon)
Total: $1232.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 20:49 EST-0500

That costs over $100 less while getting you mostly equal if not slightly better parts. The processor is faster, the cooler is not quite as good but still more than enough for overclocking, the motherboard should be more than adequate for your needs and the GQ power supply is newer and arguably better quality than the older G1 model you were looking at. The monitor is also quite a bit cheaper while remaining very similar. You say you needed another monitor, this saves you enough money to get a two of the Acer V246HQL monitor.
 
If interested in overclocking, I suggest you move up to the i5 6600K. Otherwise the i5 6500 is also unofficially capable of overclocking, but it's not as user-friendly as overclocking with a K model processor. There are also some other slight changes to be made if you want greater performance for the price. This is what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($263.48 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($115.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.59 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case ($70.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($61.50 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer V246HQL Cbd 60Hz 23.6" Monitor ($110.16 @ Amazon)
Total: $1232.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 20:49 EST-0500

That costs over $100 less while getting you mostly equal if not slightly better parts. The processor is faster, the cooler is not quite as good but still more than enough for overclocking, the motherboard should be more than adequate for your needs and the GQ power supply is newer and arguably better quality than the older G1 model you were looking at. The monitor is also quite a bit cheaper while remaining very similar. You say you needed another monitor, this saves you enough money to get a two of the Acer V246HQL monitor.


Oh wow this is exactly what I needed! Thank you very much!
 

inner-G

Banned
Thoughts on the i5 6600k vs i7 4790k? I really want to upgrade from my i7 920 and am stuck between these two. The first I can get for $225 while the later $280. With the skylake processor I'd need to get 8GB ddr4 ram as well. I don't do any video editing but I have been doing a bit of blender rendering lately and I'm not sure how beneficial the extra threads are. Playing games of course too with a gtx 770. I'd get the 6700k but its crazy expensive right now.
I've been driving myself nuts trying to get a Skylake build going. I've built 4 of my own PCs before and never had issues.

If I could get my money back and do it over again I'd get Haswell. There seem to be tons of problems with memory an booting on the z170 chipset for Skylake
 
I just bit the bullet. Tossed in a 120mm fan 4 pack and some Arctic Silver as well.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($263.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: A-Data Premier Pro SP900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($57.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($617.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.78 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1402.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 21:44 EST-0500
 

Exuro

Member
What are your complete current specs? How much do you have to spend and where are you buying the parts? With the money saved from the cheaper i5 6600K, there would be enough to get 8GB of DDR4, assuming USD.
US and I buy from anywhere online. Currently I'm using Jet as I can get $50 off most things with their 20% coupon. My question is more suited towards the benefits of hyperthreading for 3d rendering and other applications, and if its worth going for an older socket vs the skylake. I'd need to get a motherboard as well. The only spec that would remain the same is my gtx 770 gpu and hdd/sdds. I've got 8gb ddr3 memory and know that Id need to upgrade that. I guess I dont know if its worth for a cheaper newer architecture or older with hyperthreading.
 

RGM79

Member
I just bit the bullet. Tossed in a 120mm fan 4 pack and some Arctic Silver as well.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($263.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($153.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: A-Data Premier Pro SP900 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($57.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($617.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($17.78 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1402.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 21:44 EST-0500

Sorry, I must have missed your posts earlier. Did you order it all from Amazon? If you spent a bit less on the motherboard, you could have had a faster and larger 250GB SSD, but otherwise it looks like a good build.

US and I buy from anywhere online. Currently I'm using Jet as I can get $50 off most things with their 20% coupon. My question is more suited towards the benefits of hyperthreading for 3d rendering and other applications, and if its worth going for an older socket vs the skylake. I'd need to get a motherboard as well. The only spec that would remain the same is my gtx 770 gpu and hdd/sdds. I've got 8gb ddr3 memory and know that Id need to upgrade that. I guess I dont know if its worth for a cheaper newer architecture or older with hyperthreading.

Well even if you were to go with the older socket and i7 4790K, such a processor and motherboard would offer you enough performance to last through the next 3+ years (by that time Skylake and socket 1151 are anticipated to have been discontinued and replaced), so future upgradability isn't that big of an issue. What a socket 1151 motherboard would likely offer you is newer tech like DDR4 (perhaps small speed increase in CPU-stressing programs and some games), USB 3.1 and USB type C, and M.2 support.

Well, 8GB of DDR3 likely isn't that much of a problem. Is it a bottleneck for your 3D modelling and rendering? It shouldn't be holding back game performance that much.
 

Exuro

Member
Sorry, I must have missed your posts earlier. Did you order it all from Amazon? If you spent a bit less on the motherboard, you could have had a faster and larger 250GB SSD, but otherwise it looks like a good build.



Well even if you were to go with the older socket and i7 4790K, such a processor and motherboard would offer you enough performance to last through the next 3+ years (by that time Skylake and socket 1151 are anticipated to have been discontinued and replaced), so future upgradability isn't that big of an issue. What a socket 1151 motherboard would likely offer you is newer tech like DDR4 (perhaps small speed increase in CPU-stressing programs and some games), USB 3.1 and USB type C, and M.2 support.

Well, 8GB of DDR3 likely isn't that much of a problem. Is it a bottleneck for your 3D modelling and rendering? It shouldn't be holding back game performance that much.
Oh I meant if I went with Skylake I'd need new ram. It looks like I'd only need to spend around $40-$50 for 8gb which means it would be the same price to go 6600k compared to the 4970k. I assume motherboards are around the same price for both, so there doesn't seem to be a clear advantage price wise. Makes it tricky to decide, seems like it comes down to slightly better performance in lower thread count games or hyperthreading?
 

Ecto311

Member
You guys tried pricing the parts to microcenter? I have one about 2 hours from me and their prices make it worth the drive for sure. I don't know about shipping vs newegg or Amazon but it might be something to consider.
 
Sorry, I must have missed your posts earlier. Did you order it all from Amazon? If you spent a bit less on the motherboard, you could have had a faster and larger 250GB SSD, but otherwise it looks like a good build.


Turns out my Amazon card has expired and my order was cancelled.

Since I have this brief moment in time- what motherboard and ssd would you replace it with?
 
Yeah I mean I don't do a lot of other system heavy things, mainly just surf the web and use MS Office... but its fine doing any of those. But when I'm trying to game it just dies (after anywhere from 30 min to a few hours of playing). Getting pretty frequent with it too.

Have you monitored cpu temperatures? It could also be a thermal emergency shutdown.
 

RGM79

Member
Turns out my Amazon card has expired and my order was cancelled.

Since I have this brief moment in time- what motherboard and ssd would you replace it with?

How does this look?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($263.48 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.01 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.62 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($125.99)
Total: $1452.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-11 00:43 EST-0500

I don't know how much your parts list cost to order from Amazon, so I'm not sure if this is better or worse.

You guys tried pricing the parts to microcenter? I have one about 2 hours from me and their prices make it worth the drive for sure. I don't know about shipping vs newegg or Amazon but it might be something to consider.

Their processor deals are pretty decent. So are the motherboard and processor bundles.
 
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