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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Not really, multi-threaded gains are still fairly minimal especially given a high base clock/IPC, hence title
Alright, finally got my system built. I ran the Asus RealBench stress test for 15 minutes and I got a CPU max of 84C and a GPU max of 60C (if I remember correctly...). CPU and GPU both idle at 33C. I know the CPU temps are high, but is it something I should be worried about? I'll need to double check to see if the CPU is throttling, but I think it's not.
CPU is a Xeon E3-1241 with stock cooler and GPU is 960. Inside an ITX case, so it's pretty cramped in there for airflow.
CPU is a Xeon E3-1241 with stock cooler and GPU is 960. Inside an ITX case, so it's pretty cramped in there for airflow.
Asus Realbench is a pack of several programs run together for stress testing, some of them use the AVX instruction set. By design, Haswell processors will step up the CPU voltage slightly when AVX instructions are being used and that can lead to unrealistically high temperatures that you likely won't see during normal use, especially for games.
I doubt the CPU will ever get that hot when playing games, even the ones that can stress the CPU more than usual like GTAV. It should be safe. Try playing some games that you will be playing a lot and keep an eye on temperatures. The stock cooler isn't great, but it should be enough to keep the CPU from overheating. If your case doesn't have enough fan ventilation or proper airflow, you may see throttling with the stock Intel cooler.
Thanks for the help. I only have Arkham City installed right now, don't know if that's CPU heavy or not, but CPU reaches 65C and GPU 60C. Doesn't seem so bad. Maybe down the road when the stock cooler gets dirty and slow, I'll replace it with something better.
I'm currently using the stock cooler and looking to replace it because temps are a bit too high for my liking (70-80 when playing something like The Witcher 3). Not looking to do an overclock.
I'm not interested in water coolers and pre-applied is not a must, I can do it if most coolers don't come pre-applied with it. I see a lot of recommendations for the EVO 212, but I can't find it in stock here.
Is there anything comparable for that price? How's the Noctua NH-D15 for higher priced coolers?
Burgess_101
Member
On a similar note I have been wondering about the temps of my R9 390. My room is hot pretty much 24/7 (no idea why). I have an overclock on my 390 and it runs at around 80c when I am playing games, is that alright? I know these cards run pretty hot as it is, fans don't even kick in under 60c.
I haven't really noticed any issues but it is something I have been wondering about.
Hey, what's up everybody. I had a quick question maybe someone could help me out. I have an Oculus on order, and I'm just tying to make sure my PC is ready for it. They said as long as you get a 3DMark Score of above 9000 you're fine.. And if I pair my FX-8370 with an R9-290X the bench is at around 12000... This should be fine, right? I'm confused, lol. I have a 770 GTX in there now. It's aight.
FRACTAL DESIGN NODE 304 Mini ITX Case
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-6600K (3.5GHz) 6MB Cache
ASUS® Z170I PRO GAMING: Mini-ITX, LG1151, USB 3.1, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM) 16GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2666MHz (2 x 8GB Kit)
1st Hard Disk 1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
1st PCI-E SSD Drive NONE
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
I've got a 970 to put in it, wanted to keep cost down as I have x51 that I have learnt the USB 3.0 is not compatible with oculus. This build gives me a few options for the future.
Intel® Corei5 Quad Core Processor i5-6600K (3.5GHz) 6MB Cache
ASUS® Z170I PRO GAMING: Mini-ITX, LG1151, USB 3.1, SATA 6GBs
Memory (RAM) 16GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2666MHz (2 x 8GB Kit)
1st Hard Disk 1TB 3.5" SATA-III 6GB/s HDD 7200RPM 32MB CACHE
1st PCI-E SSD Drive NONE
CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
I've got a 970 to put in it, wanted to keep cost down as I have x51 that I have learnt the USB 3.0 is not compatible with oculus. This build gives me a few options for the future.
You really going to build a PC in 2016 without an SSD?
Fair enough. I'm personally just so hooked on the speed of an SSD that I just could not imagine a PC without one
HundredEyeMonk
Member
Hey thanks man!
That mobo/cpu also has a $5-off combo as well on New Egg. I actually saved about $100 by going to Newegg as well.. I had to pay $2.99 for 3-7 Day shipping, instead of free 2 day at Amazon. But prices were much better than Amazon. I'm in no rush so I can wait the extra few days.
I also forgot to toss in a wireless adapter- no way to run an Ethernet cable to computer room (no easy way I should say).
Thanks again for your help. Finally got it all ordered and ready to go.
PCPartPicker has Microcenter as a retailer, so you can price parts from there. Like a lot of brick and mortar stores, they usually aren't the cheapest, but they'll usually have pretty good deals on the latest processors.
I picked up my processor, mobo, and case from Microcenter. A few months ago they were also the cheapest for my 144hz monitor and graphics card. They are definitely worth checking out.
What country are you in that you can't find the Hyper 212 Evo in stock? The NH-D15 is an excellent cooler, but it is also rather large, so we need to make sure it'll fit your case. What are your PC's specs? What case do you have?
No problem.
Tezzeractor
Member
Hey guys. I'm having a bit of difficult time. I've recently put together my first custom PC and I'm ready to install the OS. I want to use the same copy of Windows from my old PC, but I'm confused as to what I should do. What I'm using now is a Windows 10 free upgrade from a Windows 7 retail copy. I've been doing a lot of research and I've gotten a lot of mixed messages about what is possible for me.
Some sources have told me that it is not feasible to activate a clean Windows 10 install on new hardware with a Windows 10 free upgrade key. I've also read that it is possible so long as my copy wasn't an OEM (which it wasn't). I just have to get in contact with Microsoft customer support and "explain the situation". I'd like to avoid having to do this if I can, especially after reading some users' experience with it. Some claimed they were told they needed to buy a new license.
Alternatively, I read that it's possible for me to install Windows 7 on my new PC, then upgrade it to 10 again, so long as I do this before the free upgrade offer expires. Again I'm not sure though. The instructions say I need to remove the existing Windows 10 from my old PC. There were no instructions on how to do this however, and my Google searching was fruitless. I'm also worried about activating 7 on my new PC. Will it say the key is already in use? Are my Win 7 and Win 10 keys linked? Does deactivating one deactivate the other? Is my Windows 7 key gone for good now that I have upgraded? Will Microsoft support try to make me buy a new key?
Needless to say, this is stressing me out more than it should, and I could really use some help. Is there anyone that has experience with this situation? What exactly is the path of least resistance for me? And also, are my customer support fears completely unfounded?
Some sources have told me that it is not feasible to activate a clean Windows 10 install on new hardware with a Windows 10 free upgrade key. I've also read that it is possible so long as my copy wasn't an OEM (which it wasn't). I just have to get in contact with Microsoft customer support and "explain the situation". I'd like to avoid having to do this if I can, especially after reading some users' experience with it. Some claimed they were told they needed to buy a new license.
Alternatively, I read that it's possible for me to install Windows 7 on my new PC, then upgrade it to 10 again, so long as I do this before the free upgrade offer expires. Again I'm not sure though. The instructions say I need to remove the existing Windows 10 from my old PC. There were no instructions on how to do this however, and my Google searching was fruitless. I'm also worried about activating 7 on my new PC. Will it say the key is already in use? Are my Win 7 and Win 10 keys linked? Does deactivating one deactivate the other? Is my Windows 7 key gone for good now that I have upgraded? Will Microsoft support try to make me buy a new key?
Needless to say, this is stressing me out more than it should, and I could really use some help. Is there anyone that has experience with this situation? What exactly is the path of least resistance for me? And also, are my customer support fears completely unfounded?
^^^
Since you are one of the two people alive who don't have an OEM Windows lisence, it's kinda expected to get mixed messages.
If I was you I'd just create a Windows 10 installer, install with it and the product key you have originally, and then contact Microsoft via phone if the OS doesn't activate properly.
Since you are one of the two people alive who don't have an OEM Windows lisence, it's kinda expected to get mixed messages.
If I was you I'd just create a Windows 10 installer, install with it and the product key you have originally, and then contact Microsoft via phone if the OS doesn't activate properly.
Tezzeractor
Member
Is it that unpopular to have anything other than OEM? I didn't have any control over mine because it was a gift, but I wouldn't've thought it was so extreme.
Stilton Disco
Member
Hey, got some help before with a new build not working, just going into a boot loop with Windows 10. Checked with an Ubuntu USB, which worked fine from the stick but also wouldn't instal, then I replaced the harddrive, but that didn't work, checked the RAM with memtest86 for a full 8hrs/7 passes and that was fine too. Which left me with either the CPU, GPU, PSU or motherboard at fault.
So today I could finally 'borrow' a rgb monitor cable at work, and could remove the GPU dice I didn't need to use HDMI. Windows has now installed and booted perfectly!
So he GPU was the problem, I hope!
Im currently updating Windows, which is almost done.
So my question is, would this likely be a driver conflict? And if so, how would I go about sorting that out? Or at least try to get it working?
It's an AMD R7 265, which I do have a disc for, I've just found!
Or, how do I find out if it's faulty hardware, without borking it again?
So today I could finally 'borrow' a rgb monitor cable at work, and could remove the GPU dice I didn't need to use HDMI. Windows has now installed and booted perfectly!
So he GPU was the problem, I hope!
Im currently updating Windows, which is almost done.
So my question is, would this likely be a driver conflict? And if so, how would I go about sorting that out? Or at least try to get it working?
It's an AMD R7 265, which I do have a disc for, I've just found!
Or, how do I find out if it's faulty hardware, without borking it again?
People who buy computers and laptops from the store have OEM licenses, people who build gaming PC's typically buy OEM licenses (which at some point Microsoft sold as 'system builder' package).
The regular retail license is better in terms of activating it etc, but also typically at least 2x more expensive and the actual OS is always the same. OEM licenses can be transferred against their terms if you know what you're doing.
Stilton Disco
Member
Ok, I got 25% into preparing updates for instal, then it crashed. So what's at fault here? Motherboard, PSU, or CPU? What should I get replaced? Or all three to be safe?
And it just crashed on the Windows loading screen again. This time with a load of multi coloured static bars in a checkered pattern across the top few centimetres of the screen.
And it just crashed on the Windows loading screen again. This time with a load of multi coloured static bars in a checkered pattern across the top few centimetres of the screen.
Does your MOBO have two storage controllers? What HDD or SSD do you have?
I would
-one stick of ram
-no gpu
-update the BIOS
-format hdd
-install windows
if nothing wrong, then keep adding GPU and RAM back. If shit goes wrong, try different memory modules and different slots, try the other storage controller etc
Also what CPU cooler do you have? There used to be an annoying problem where some coolers could be set too tight and that would mess with one pin's connection on the mobo from the cpu.
Alright so I think I'm going to go for the 6600k over the 4790k. Is this good for ram/mobo? I can get 20% off up to $50 using a coupon so separate orders for the cpu itself to maximize savings.
https://jet.com/product/INTEL-BX806...Ts-6MB-LGA-1/9dea21469fd44d27bbff019eb554c937
https://jet.com/product/ASRock-Z97M...Intel-Mother/8433009532d54caf8472150321573233
https://jet.com/product/Kingston-Hy...-SDRAM-2133-/cf5cf0d6ad7140a3a10a2ebc6ab1390e
Also whats good for cooling? I currently have a cooler master 212 on my i7 920 but I'd like to move down to a smaller case and am not sure if that will fit well. Is water cooling pretty straight forward these days for a cpu? Actually I wonder if my cooler will fit on the newer socket.
edit: yeah it fits 1366 which is my socket and 1156, and apparently 1156, 1150 and 1151 are the same sizing. Thats good. I'll throw my stock cooler on the 920 and move the other cooler over. sweet.
https://jet.com/product/INTEL-BX806...Ts-6MB-LGA-1/9dea21469fd44d27bbff019eb554c937
https://jet.com/product/ASRock-Z97M...Intel-Mother/8433009532d54caf8472150321573233
https://jet.com/product/Kingston-Hy...-SDRAM-2133-/cf5cf0d6ad7140a3a10a2ebc6ab1390e
Also whats good for cooling? I currently have a cooler master 212 on my i7 920 but I'd like to move down to a smaller case and am not sure if that will fit well. Is water cooling pretty straight forward these days for a cpu? Actually I wonder if my cooler will fit on the newer socket.
edit: yeah it fits 1366 which is my socket and 1156, and apparently 1156, 1150 and 1151 are the same sizing. Thats good. I'll throw my stock cooler on the 920 and move the other cooler over. sweet.
opticalmace
Member
Did you reinstall your GPU? Based on the checkered pattern I think the GPU is probably defective. Do the problems go away still when you go to onboard video?
I am being forced to upgrade from my working old pc forced updates has made software I use not compatible with my pc dell optiplex gx270 windows xp. Never built pc never gamed on pc I have collected small library in case day arrived. Not looking to build best pc build only something that will allow me to run modern operating system and allow me to play outrun 2006 coast to coast batman arkham games bioshocks la noire I do not have a hd monitor my budget is $600 duggestions please.
Stilton Disco
Member
I tried all of that already with the GPU in, none of it makes a difference, and the RAM checked out fine with memtest86.
I thought the GPU being taken out solved it, but it worked fine for half an hour and then fucked up and keeps fucking up like it did before.
The cooler is just the standard Intel cooler that came with my i5 4460.
Nope, it was never put back in. The problem took longer to occur, but still happened, and now it's gone back to crashing the moment it gets to the Windows load screen.
That CPU is not compatible with that motherboard.
What are your CPU temps if you go into BIOS SETUP and check them from there?
The i5 6600K is not compatible with Z97 motherboards. You want a Z170 motherboard. I recommend the Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI.
This should meet your needs just fine, if you don't mind reusing your existing hard drives.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin ECO2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card ($199.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($43.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $616.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-11 12:07 EST-0500
yeah whoops, got it mixed up with the 4790k combo. Will edit in a bit.
Stilton Disco
Member
After 5mins it seems to have stabilised at 86F/30C. Though it might still be rising slowly.
I have no idea what that means.
If that's your CPU temp then it means it's all good.
Stilton Disco
Member
Ok, that's good. Also it did seem fine from memtest86, and ran Ubuntu from USB without a hitch.
Right, so it's either the PSU, or the motherboard. They're both from Amazon, so send them both back for replacements just to be safe?
Kenzodielocke
Banned
When do you guys start to overclock the CPU ?
Considering how easy it is these days, I'd probably just send them both in if I was you.
What are my options for cooling my PC/GPU other than liquid cooling the entire pc?
I already have a Asetek 550LC 120mm Watercooler for my CPU which seems to be working pretty well but my GPU is always getting too hot. Im using a NZXT Source 340 Mid-Tower case that only came with the top fan so I picked up 2 more fans and installed them on the front for intake and made the top fan an exhaust. Do I have any other options or does anyone recommend a better solution?
I already have a Asetek 550LC 120mm Watercooler for my CPU which seems to be working pretty well but my GPU is always getting too hot. Im using a NZXT Source 340 Mid-Tower case that only came with the top fan so I picked up 2 more fans and installed them on the front for intake and made the top fan an exhaust. Do I have any other options or does anyone recommend a better solution?
Immediately after purchase. There's no reason to wait, really. Fearing some adverse effect on the CPU's lifecycle from OC is like going on a run with your new running shoes but not running as fast as you can because you're afraid of wearing the shoes faster.
Could I get an opinion on this build? I'm going for a small form factor PC with a budget of $1000 and am building it around an R9 Nano. Wanted to make sure everything here looks ok (does to me at least)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CsZR23
Specs
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz $219.99
MOBO: ASRock B150M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard $80.98
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory $47.89
SSD: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $44.99
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 Nano 4GB Video Card $594.98
Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case $38.99
PSU: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $30.98
Total: $1048.80
I think I can probably get the price down a little further by watching deals and bundling but this is a good starting point.
Idea is high performance in a (relatively) small package. A little bit about my thought process. It's a small form factor PC so I don't want to risk (or worry about) OC'ing so non-k series CPU and MOBO not made for OC'ing saved me a little money. 120GB SSD is just a placeholder it's enough to get my going till I can buy a larger HDD to install games on.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CsZR23
Specs
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz $219.99
MOBO: ASRock B150M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard $80.98
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory $47.89
SSD: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $44.99
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 Nano 4GB Video Card $594.98
Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case $38.99
PSU: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $30.98
Total: $1048.80
I think I can probably get the price down a little further by watching deals and bundling but this is a good starting point.
Idea is high performance in a (relatively) small package. A little bit about my thought process. It's a small form factor PC so I don't want to risk (or worry about) OC'ing so non-k series CPU and MOBO not made for OC'ing saved me a little money. 120GB SSD is just a placeholder it's enough to get my going till I can buy a larger HDD to install games on.
You could check if any of those All-In-One closed loop water cooling sets work with your GPU.
Corsair and NZXT both sell brackets that you install on your GPU so it can take a 120mm water cooling unit meant for the CPU.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=nzxt+bracket
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MY3TS2C/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I would never cut it so close with a PSU. There's very little or no chance of you ever upgrading that build to anything beefier.
MoFoJones99
Member
Hey everyone. For those of you that have a Asus board, I have a question: Whenever I boot up a game, the CPU Q-LED will switch on and remain solid until I close the game and return to Windows. Why is that? I have an Asus Z170-A motherboard, btw.
So I stupidly ordered a Corsair 600C, which is Full-tower monolith of a case that is way too large for my single GPU purposes(I didn't do any measurements as I thought it was a mid-tower). It's too large to fit inside my PC desk shelf space, so it needs to sit on the carpet on its peg legs(hope that won't be a problem).
Since I already opened the box and installed everything, am I screwed out of getting a return from Amazon for something smaller? I have never returned anything to them, but I really want a case that fits my shelf under the desk. I have all the parts and screws of course, its just that obviously the box is opened.
Since I already opened the box and installed everything, am I screwed out of getting a return from Amazon for something smaller? I have never returned anything to them, but I really want a case that fits my shelf under the desk. I have all the parts and screws of course, its just that obviously the box is opened.
Well the case won't fit anything larger. And that's about 200 watts over what I really HAVE to have. Do you expect more power hungry small form factor cards to come out in the future?
Thanks. I like the number of usb ports in the back and usb c is a nice addition. Is the ram I picked good or is there another set you prefer?
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