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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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So my 560ti and 965BE are getting a bit long in the tooth for me. Looking at going in for a new build.

I spent the last couple of days scouring the OP, digging into this thread and reading reviews. What are thoughts on this:



Is that PSU good enough to handle overclockicking? Any other outstanding issues?

I'm trying to keep my budget to as close to $1,000 USD as possible.

Shouldn't be a problem but might hinder your future GPU upgrades, depending on what you might get by then, I always overbudget PSUs for future proof but again, PSUs are not expensive to replace so yeah you can roll with that.
 

RGM79

Member
Performance is ok it just gets super hot and loud.
Right, forgot about that. I'm guessing you have a reference style R9 290? With the single fan and a boxy shroud. Well, your other option is to get an aftermarket cooler for your R9 290. Arctic Cooling and Gelid offer graphics card coolers but I don't know how much they cost in Australia. Otherwise there's the option of buying an adaptor bracket like the NZXT G10 or Corsair HG10 which allow you to attach all-in-one CPU water coolers to a graphics card. It's possible that replacing the graphics card cooler will void the warranty, however. Whether it does or not will depend on what brand it is, each manufacturer has a slightly different warranty policy.

So question on swapping over to a new computer build and Windows 10. What's the easiest way to do this on a computer that was upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10. I was thinking install the new mb, cpu, and ram then launch Windows 10 and run the reset tool maybe? Since I upgraded from Windows 7 , what key do I use to try and register Windows 10 if I need to do a fresh install?
Technically, you might not be able to. Someone else asked that question just a few days ago, and this is what I said:

Your free upgrade has been tied to that computer. You can try contacting Microsoft support for help transferring the Windows 10 license if you want to push the issue. My understanding is that Microsoft considers those free licenses of Windows 10 to be "digital entitlement" and not transferable like normal Windows 10 licenses bought from a store.​

So my 560ti and 965BE are getting a bit long in the tooth for me. Looking at going in for a new build.

I spent the last couple of days scouring the OP, digging into this thread and reading reviews. What are thoughts on this:



Is that PSU good enough to handle overclockicking? Any other outstanding issues?

I'm trying to keep my budget to as close to $1,000 USD as possible.

That parts list is alright, but it's not exactly the best for price to performance. Here's what I recommend.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.01 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($308.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($43.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $997.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-12 23:15 EST-0500
 
Is a GTX 950 still a huge upgrade from an integrated Intel HD 4000 laptop chip? Just weighing the options here.

How much of a problem would the 2 GB part of the GTX 950 be?
 
I have an old razer deathadder that has served me fine but for a while now middle button(click not scroll) stops working for few hours, sometimes short sometimes longer. Today it didn't work for 10 hours and I thought it was gone ,ready to pick up a new mouse but it started working again. Anyone got idea what it could be? Just sign of it's upcoming death or? I'm still tempted to buy a new mouse but money is really tight right now so if it still works, and I've been happy with it for 8 years... Tried opening it to clean etc but screws got stripped few years ago when I tried doing the same so yeah..

I think this might be the death of your Deathadder... When the money's there, investigate the Zowie EC2A. It's very similar in shape and built to last. Runs for about $60.
 

Dmax3901

Member
Right, forgot about that. I'm guessing you have a reference style R9 290? With the single fan and a boxy shroud. Well, your other option is to get an aftermarket cooler for your R9 290. Arctic Cooling and Gelid offer graphics card coolers but I don't know how much they cost in Australia. Otherwise there's the option of buying an adaptor bracket like the NZXT G10 or Corsair HG10 which allow you to attach all-in-one CPU water coolers to a graphics card. It's possible that replacing the graphics card cooler will void the warranty, however. Whether it does or not will depend on what brand it is, each manufacturer has a slightly different warranty policy.

Yeah single fan. This one:

417183-amd-radeon-r9-290.jpg


Gonna look into those coolers, thanks!
 
Shouldn't be a problem but might hinder your future GPU upgrades, depending on what you might get by then, I always overbudget PSUs for future proof but again, PSUs are not expensive to replace so yeah you can roll with that.

Alright - I moved up to an EVGA 650W PSU. Just in case I upgrade my GPU before Battlefield 5 comes out.


That parts list is alright, but it's not exactly the best for price to performance. Here's what I recommend.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.01 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($308.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($43.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $997.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-12 23:15 EST-0500

Nice - thanks for this. I originally had a lot of these in my list but upgraded and adjusted after researching. Samsung SSD being much better than Crucial, CPU Cooler/Case having a better aesthetic look, etc.
 

RGM79

Member
Alright - I moved up to an EVGA 650W PSU. Just in case I upgrade my GPU before Battlefield 5 comes out.

Nice - thanks for this. I originally had a lot of these in my list but upgraded and adjusted after researching. Samsung SSD being much better than Crucial, CPU Cooler/Case having a better aesthetic look, etc.

Well, if you can't live without those parts, consider saving money by getting a cheap Windows license off Reddit. Here's my usual disclaimer on that:

Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around $15 USD or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for a bit more. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. The 7/8/8.1 keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.​

That said, the Geminii cooler you're looking at isn't as good as the larger Hyper 212 Evo in case you're interested in overclocking or worried about temperatures.
 

RGM79

Member
Is a GTX 950 still a huge upgrade from an integrated Intel HD 4000 laptop chip? Just weighing the options here.

How much of a problem would the 2 GB part of the GTX 950 be?
Yes, it is. The 2GB issue isn't that great when you consider that it'll be playing the latest games on medium settings or so, and the lower the settings the less VRAM usage there will be. What sort of games are you looking forward to playing?
 
D

Deleted member 30609

Unconfirmed Member
So I built my PC to the spec posted earlier in this thread (http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/TLxrdC), and it all seems to be working okay *except* for the graphics card.

So these questions must be common, so I'll try to be specific. When the GPU is plugged in, I don't get any video output and nothing beeps.

The graphics card, a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X, seems to be getting power (the fans are spinning). I tried both slots on my motherboard that would support it, and both times it prevented any image from being output to the monitor over DVI and HDMI. I'm connecting power to it using a 6+2 power cable and a 6-slot power cable. I've tried different variations of the power cords in the available GPU power slots. All times the fans on the GPU turn on.

Otherwise, when I remove the card I can boot just fine. The CPU, memory and SSD are recognised in the BIOS menu.

Sadly, I don't have another PC to test the card in.

Any thoughts?
 
So I built my PC to the spec posted earlier in this thread (http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/TLxrdC), and it all seems to be working okay *except* for the graphics card.

So these questions must be common, so I'll try to be specific. When the GPU is plugged in, I don't get any video output and nothing beeps.

The graphics card, a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X, seems to be getting power (the fans are spinning). I tried both slots on my motherboard that would support it, and both times it prevented any image from being output to the monitor over DVI and HDMI. I'm connecting power to it using a 6+2 power cable and a 6-slot power cable. I've tried different variations of the power cords in the available GPU power slots. All times the fans on the GPU turn on.

Otherwise, when I remove the card I can boot just fine. The CPU, memory and SSD are recognised in the BIOS menu.

Sadly, I don't have another PC to test the card in.

Any thoughts?

Are you sure your monitor cable is connected to the graphics card's DVI/HDMI slot, not the motherboards?
 

komplanen

Member
So I built my PC to the spec posted earlier in this thread (http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/TLxrdC), and it all seems to be working okay *except* for the graphics card.

So these questions must be common, so I'll try to be specific. When the GPU is plugged in, I don't get any video output and nothing beeps.

The graphics card, a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X, seems to be getting power (the fans are spinning). I tried both slots on my motherboard that would support it, and both times it prevented any image from being output to the monitor over DVI and HDMI. I'm connecting power to it using a 6+2 power cable and a 6-slot power cable. I've tried different variations of the power cords in the available GPU power slots. All times the fans on the GPU turn on.

Otherwise, when I remove the card I can boot just fine. The CPU, memory and SSD are recognised in the BIOS menu.

Sadly, I don't have another PC to test the card in.

Any thoughts?

Are you connecting the HDMI and/or DVI cable to the GPU directly and not just the motherboard? (I know, a long shot :-3)

Without GPU, go to the BIOS and load default settings (typically found in the last screen where you exit and save). Try again.
 

StuffRuff

Member
In what scenarios do you notice the coil whine?

On my MSI 970 I only noticed it when booting up games (when the FPS would go sky high). After setting a global FPS cap the coil whine went away.

Yeah similarily to you, ususally when games are ramping up in FPS. At idle and low GPU power the card is near silent! I'll look into FPS capping and see if that can't solve my own coil whine, thanks.
 

FLAguy954

Junior Member
Holy shit! Have any of you seen this insanely expensive build from Reddit?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5960X 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($999.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus RAMPAGE V EXTREME/U3 EATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($479.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($449.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($419.99 @ Micro Center)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($419.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB K|NGP|N ACX 2.0+ Video Card (4-Way SLI) ($1200.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB K|NGP|N ACX 2.0+ Video Card (4-Way SLI) ($1200.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB K|NGP|N ACX 2.0+ Video Card (4-Way SLI) ($1200.00)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB K|NGP|N ACX 2.0+ Video Card (4-Way SLI) ($1200.00)
Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex 2000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($400.00)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($130.65 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 100Hz 34.0" Monitor ($1157.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 100Hz 34.0" Monitor ($1157.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 100Hz 34.0" Monitor ($1157.99 @ NCIX US)
Monitor: Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 165Hz 27.0" Monitor ($799.00 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Razer Orbweaver Elite Mechanical Gaming Keypad Wired Gaming Keyboard ($163.32 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Ducky DK9087 Shine 3 TKL Blue LED Backlit (Red Cherry MX) Wired Standard Keyboard ($185.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse ($57.99 @ Best Buy)
Headphones: Sennheiser HD800 Headphones ($1298.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Roccat Bungee (Purchased For $53.46)
Other: ASUS (RT-AC68U (Purchased For $174.87)
Other: Aquaero 6 XT (Purchased For $200.00)
Other: Phobya UV LED x 10 (Purchased For $300.00)
Other: Razer Firefly mat (Purchased For $59.99)
Other: Monsoon hardline UV Blue tubes x 2 (Purchased For $50.00)
Other: Mayhems Aurora 2 Concentrate X 4 (Purchased For $70.00)
Other: Mayhems Clear Blue UV Dye (Purchased For $10.00)
Other: Mayhems Blue Dye (Purchased For $10.00)
Other: Corsair Air Series SP 140 LED Blue High Static Pressure Fan Cooling x 18 (Purchased For $244.62)
Other: Noctua 140 mm NF-A14 PWM x 18 (Purchased For $531.00)
Other: Aquacomputer D5 Pump + Aquabus x 3 (Purchased For $300.00)
Other: EK-FB ASUS R5E Monoblock - Nickel (Purchased For $200.00)
Other: EK-FC 980 Ti Classy KPE - Nickel x 4 (Purchased For $579.39)
Other: EK-RES X3 250 x 2 (Purchased For $115.40)
Other: EVGA 4 way SLI bridge (Purchased For $50.00)
Other: INWIN S FRAME + Modding ($1000.00)
Other: Woo Audio 22 Tube Amp (Purchased For $1995.00)
Other: Woo Audio WDS- 1 DAC (Purchased For $1199.00)
Other: Woo Audio Headphone Stand (Purchased For $79.00)
Other: Cambridge Azur 851A (Purchased For $1849.00)
Other: Herman Miller Embody (Purchased For $1229.00)
Other: Ergotron MX Wall Mount LCD Arm (Purchased For $158.46)
Other: Bowers and Willkins CM5 S2 (Purchased For $2400.00)
Other: Moon Audio Blue Dragon 6m XLR Balanced cable (Purchased For $500.00)
Other: Bluewalker PowerWalker VFI 10000P/RT LCD (Purchased For $2098.00)
Other: Server Rack (Purchased For $265.71)
Other: Netgear GS516TP, Switch (Purchased For $409.48)
Other: Sharkoon 5-Bay RAID-Station (Purchased For $208.95)
Other: Western Digital WD2001FFSX 2 TB x 5 (Purchased For $782.25)
Other: Server ( MSI Board, i5 CPU, Samsung SSD, Corsair PSU ) (Purchased For $600.00)
Other: Aquarium + Bubble machine (Purchased For $200.00)
Other: EK WB Watercooling fittings and fan cables (Purchased For $1200.00)
Other: Speaker wall mount (Purchased For $200.00)
Other: Flow sensor "high flow" G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT ultra and poweradjust (Purchased For $39.80)
Other: Custom Power Cables (Purchased For $300.00)
Other: Watercool - MO-RA 3 9x140 PRO x 2 (Purchased For $600.00)
Total: $34341.25
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-13 03:59 EST-0500
 
D

Deleted member 30609

Unconfirmed Member
Are you sure your monitor cable is connected to the graphics card's DVI/HDMI slot, not the motherboards?

Are you connecting the HDMI and/or DVI cable to the GPU directly and not just the motherboard? (I know, a long shot :-3)

Without GPU, go to the BIOS and load default settings (typically found in the last screen where you exit and save). Try again.

lmao, this is almost certainly the problem. Will check and report back.
 

StuffRuff

Member
Thanks for that. My sound card is right above my current GPU. I'm assuming in terms of height, the extra size will be downwards rather than upwards?



Does your coil whine occur when going above 60fps, or generally? From what I can tell, my current 770 only has coil whine when the framerate goes really high (when vsync is off), but I also get a slightly different sounding whine from the PSU (at least I think that's the source), which I can only hear in one ear, probably because it's at a higher frequency. PSU is a Corsair TX V2 650w.

As above, its really only when FPS ramps up in games and even then its not overly noticeable. Nothing as bad as the R9 390 Nitro I had before it. My PSU is the corsair TX650 for what its worth.


The things I would do with unlimited cash lol
 
D

Deleted member 30609

Unconfirmed Member
lmao, this is almost certainly the problem. Will check and report back.

Yep. I just needed to plug the cable into the GPU, not the motherboard. I'm fired. But also relieved.
 
How likely is it when a PSU goes, it takes other components with it?

Last year my PC just cut of randomly, playing JC3. I had recently enabled OC genie on my MSI motherboard and I had been leaving the game running a little longer than usual.

When I opened the case, it was quite warmer than usual, nothing crazy hot or burning though.

Havent really messed with the thing since. I have no spare PSU to test but I think that at the very least, that is dead.
 

kami_sama

Member
That's right Win 10 will auto disable defragmentation for SSDs and if you bought a samsung SSD then using their software is 100% the way to go. It works very well.

I've used this guide, it's worked for me and a few other people in this thread.

In the end it was a nightmare cloning to the ssd. I had some problems in the partitions on the hdd, and I ended up doing a clean install.

Thank you both for the help, though.
 

komplanen

Member
Yep. I just needed to plug the cable into the GPU, not the motherboard. I'm fired. But also relieved.

I almost didn't suggest that thinking it might sound like I was talking to a bag of rocks :) We're all new once though and even experienced people make mistakes.

How likely is it when a PSU goes, it takes other components with it?

Last year my PC just cut of randomly, playing JC3. I had recently enabled OC genie on my MSI motherboard and I had been leaving the game running a little longer than usual.

When I opened the case, it was quite warmer than usual, nothing crazy hot or burning though.

Havent really messed with the thing since. I have no spare PSU to test but I think that at the very least, that is dead.

It's no where near unheard of, but in most cases it's just the PSU that breaks. I repaired dozens and dozens of such computers in one of my previous job and never did I see components being broken if a PSU shat itself just like that out of the blue. Thunderstorms etc are a different story.
 

ISee

Member
In the end it was a nightmare cloning to the ssd. I had some problems in the partitions on the ssd, and I ended up doing a clean install.

Thank you both for the help, though.

Oh, sorry to hear that. Didn't expect that.
At least it's working now. Have fun.
 

kami_sama

Member
Oh, sorry to hear that. Didn't expect that.
At least it's working now. Have fun.

Correction, it had problems on the hdd, the ssd was clean :p
But yeah, ended up going to bed at 3am yesterday. It had problems with the efi partition and the data one. Most probably because I uninstalled Mint badly.
 

The_Poet

Banned
I am completely out of the loop in terms of CPU news.

Whats in the horizon in terms of the next Intel processors? Are they worth waiting for? When are they due to come out?
 
I am completely out of the loop in terms of CPU news.

Whats in the horizon in terms of the next Intel processors? Are they worth waiting for? When are they due to come out?

The newest Intel processor just came out several months ago and you will not have a new series any time soon.
 

Mikeside

Member
I've bought myself a Corsair 540 and a GTX 980ti, upgrading from my 970 so I can fully enjoy my 1440p monitor and be ready for a Vive when it comes out.

I also have 32gb for decent RAM that I got on a deal and an i5 4690k

the question is, would it be worth changing up my Asus Z97 Gaming 9 AC motherboard for something newer, or am I just being silly for even looking at that right now?




Anybody with the Corsair 540, did you feel the need to put additional fans in it, and what would you recommend, or does it come with sufficient cooling?
 

Impulsor

Member
I need and opinion an my machine.

Built it myself and OCed it a bit. Got it in June, last year.

MoBo: MSI Z97 Gaming 5
CPU: i7 4790K @ 4.4ghz OC fixed.
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 High Performance Liquid Cooling kit.
GPU: Asus Nvidia GTX 980ti - 300 Mhz Memory clock OC and a 210 Mhz GPU clock OC.
RAM: 32 Gb Corsair 1866c9 vengeance pro
SSD: 256gb Samsung EVO
HDD: 1 TB Seagate Barracuda 7200 rpm.
PSU: Thermaltake 750W Toughpower 80+ GOLD
Case: Corsair Obsidian 450D

For whatever it's worth, I use a 34404x1440p 34" IPS monitor with a complementary 1080p 23" monitor on the side, just to keep stuff open like movies for when I farm in rpg games or whatever, or guides.

So glad I made the investment, it is being the msot incredible gaming experience I have ever had.

whenever pascal comes out, and depending on how big the performance gap is, I might go for one.
 

KooopaKid

Banned
Is this set-up ok?

Your Current Specs: Intel I5 6600K 3.5 Ghz / 8G DDR3 1600 Mhz / Gigabyte Z97 HD3 / GTX 960 2Go
Budget: 1000€ (France)
Main Use: Light Gaming: 4, Gaming: 4, Video Editing: 5, Cubase: 5.
Monitor Resolution: No new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Cubase, Sony Vegas, HD playback, (Witcher III if possible as a bonus)
Is 30FPS acceptable? Yes.
 

Kayant

Member
the question is, would it be worth changing up my Asus Z97 Gaming 9 AC motherboard for something newer, or am I just being silly for even looking at that right now?
New boards are for Z170 so you would need a new processor so it's not really worth the cost for the upgrade imo. Looking at your motherboard I don't see any real reason to upgrade. If you want to add Usb 3.1 type c you can get an add on card or get a cable I think from 3.0 Type A to 3.1 Type C.
 

Impulsor

Member
Is this set-up ok?

Your Current Specs: Intel I5 6600K 3.5 Ghz / 8G DDR3 1600 Mhz / Gigabyte Z97 HD3 / GTX 960 2Go
Budget: 1000€ + France
Main Use: Light Gaming: 4, Gaming: 4, Video Editing: 5, Cubase: 5.
Monitor Resolution: No new monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Cubase, Sony Vegas, HD playback, (Witcher III if possible as a bonus)
Is 30FPS acceptable? Yes.

Hell no!

What does + France mean?
 

Chris_C

Member
I got a 970 in December and have pretty much become a PCbgamer as a result. End of the month I'm swapping my i5 4570 (non-k) for an i7 4790k that I plan to overclock to 4.5Ghz. I have an Asus Gryphon Z80 (is that a decent board?) With a flashed bios, hoping it should keep me in 1080p/60 gaming at high/ultra until Pascal.
 
I got a 970 in December and have pretty much become a PCbgamer as a result. End of the month I'm swapping my i5 4570 (non-k) for an i7 4790k that I plan to overclock to 4.5Ghz. I have an Asus Gryphon Z80 (is that a decent board?) With a flashed bios, hoping it should keep me in 1080p/60 gaming at high/ultra until Pascal.

That is a good board and yes that route will keep you going for quite a long time yet.
 

Mikeside

Member
New boards are for Z170 so you would need a new processor so it's not really worth the cost for the upgrade imo. Looking at your motherboard I don't see any real reason to upgrade. If you want to add Usb 3.1 type c you can get an add on card or get a cable I think from 3.0 Type A to 3.1 Type C.



I'm not bothered about USB C right now, and as you say, I'll just get a PCI card if so.


thanks, I was being stupid!
 

delaneya

Member
After a while of not having a PC, had to sell it for room in the house. I think its time I tried doing some pc gaming from the sofa.

Your Current Specs: None have a laptop
Budget: £500
Main Use: Gaming/Emulation
Monitor Resolution: Going to use TV

Was thinking i5-4690 with 8gb of ram and 1 tb hdd. For GPU I am swinging for a GTX 960.
Not 100% sure what to do about mouse keyboard issue right now.

Whats your thoughts?
Maxing stuff out is not important. Will prob play Elite.
 

Rosur

Member
Kaby Lake is coming around the same time as Pascal (H2).

Will it be worth getting a Kaby Lake CPU or worth waiting for Cannonlake as have said I'll get an upgrade when cannonlake came out before cannonlake got delayed? (currently have a I5-4690k)

Though will be upgrading my 970 to 1070 with Pascal 4GB card.
 

komplanen

Member
Will it be worth getting a Kaby Lake CPU or worth waiting for Cannonlake as have said I'll get an upgrade when cannonlake came out before cannonlake got delayed? (currently have a I5-4690k)

Though will be upgrading my 970 to 1070 with Pascal 4GB card.

It is extremely unlikely you'd have any real need to upgrade to Kaby Lake from your current CPU. There could be games that use plenty of cores and thus make you wish you had an i7 but that is beyond the point (and also not that likely for now).

Is the R9 380 2GB a terrible choice compared to the 4GB version?

Yes it is. Buy a GPU with 4GB of memory unless you are buying something like a cheap "I just need something" level of card like a GTX950 and the likes.
 

Volotaire

Member
I have a question about the Toshiba’s DT01ACA300 3TB Drive.

I'm quite tempted to purchase it because of its low price, but user reviews seem a bit over the place for its long run reliability and failure rate?

Should I look to WD instead or are the reports over exaggerated?
 

e90Mark

Member
Pretty sure, he/she could easy afford to replace with them once they are out. Waiting is only for people on a budget. The only thing is no M.2 SSDs in the build.
Pretty sure that was a joke post, haha.
Anybody with the Corsair 540, did you feel the need to put additional fans in it, and what would you recommend, or does it come with sufficient cooling?
You probably don't need any more fans, it is an Air afterall, but you could upgrade to the Quiet editions of the AF/SP 140/120 from Corsair.
 
Well, if you can't live without those parts, consider saving money by getting a cheap Windows license off Reddit. Here's my usual disclaimer on that:

Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around $15 USD or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for a bit more. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. The 7/8/8.1 keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.​

That said, the Geminii cooler you're looking at isn't as good as the larger Hyper 212 Evo in case you're interested in overclocking or worried about temperatures.

Nice - good looks.

Yeah, I have the Cooler Master 212 on my current CPU and it's been amazing at keeping it overclocked for the past couple of years. Never an issue.

I'll keep doing research into the best mix of cooling and looks for the new build. Thanks for bringing it up.
 

komplanen

Member
I have a question about the Toshiba’s DT01ACA300 3TB Drive.

I'm quite tempted to purchase it because of its low price, but user reviews seem a bit over the place for its long run reliability and failure rate?

Should I look to WD instead or are the reports over exaggerated?

HGST > WD
 
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