Support NeoGAF

[openrob]

I have found the solution to my problem. It's thin enough I can place it behind the motherboard, it's 500w gold rated. For a 1u (server) PSU it's supposably really quiet (the fan doesn't even kick in until 50% power draw), it's modular so I can minimise amount of cables taking up space.

Perfect in every way... Except it's 15mm too tall grrrrr!!!

 

[ISee]

Hey guys,

I think it's time to upgrade some components in my rig. I want to get a new GPU and a new 1440p monitor. Maybe some new RAM. Here's what I have right now:

Your Current Specs: i5 3570K @ 3.4GHz / 8GB G.Skill NT Series DDR3-1333 / ASRock Z77 Extreme4 / Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB OC with Boost / 530W be quiet! Pure Power L7 80+ / Xigmatek Midgard / Crucial CT064M4SSD2 + 1000GB Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX
Budget: 500€ for the GPU + Germany
Main Use: Gaming 4, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 4, VR in the future 4.
Monitor Resolution: I currently have a 24" 1080p Dell U2312HM, but I want to upgrade to a 27" 1440p monitor, preferably with G-Sync
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Rise of the Tomb Raider @ 60FPS at full detail
Looking to reuse any parts?: I'd like to reuse as much as possible.
When will you build?: Soon
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, if necessary.

I've been looking into GPU's like the GTX 970 and 980. Is the 980 worth the 150€ premium over the 970? Should I buy one of those now or should I wait for Pascal / Polaris?

Thanks in advance for any input.

If your money budget allows you to go for the 980, then do it. About 20% more performance for 150 € is ok, because you have to look on the total cost of your system and not just the GPU cost alone.
Spending an extra 150 € for an i3 system to buy a gtx 980 over a 970 wouldn't be worth it, because the total GPU cost would probably nearly double the total cost of the CPU, RAM and motherboard. But for an i5 or i7 system? Yeah I think it is. And your i5 (a bit overclocked) is as fast as an i5 6600 (no overclock), so in my opinion even a 980 Ti is a possibility (if it's in your budget). You're also aiming to play in 1440p and every bit of extra GPU power will help you with that.
That said: prices for the r9 nano should drop soon and it may be the better alternative in the 500€ price range, but only NVIDIA offers a tomb Raider bundle atm, so this might be a stronger argument for you. But please do not expect to max out every single setting in Tomb Raider (even on a 980). Often enough some NVIDIA specific stuff like HBAO+ Ultra amd PCSS Ultra is even too much for a 980Ti. Tomb Raider is going to have some new form of voxel based ambient occlusion and we really have no idea how it will influence performance.

When it comes to ram, yes faster ram can definitely help in CPU bottleneck gaming situations. If you want to upgrade from 8GB to 16GB then consider going for ~2400mhz ddr3 ram modules, if you want to stay on 8GB of RAM then do not upgrade and pocket the cash.

Is it worth to buy a new GPU now? Pascal/Polaris will (probably) offer you a better price/performance ratio, so waiting is of course a possibility. But if you want to play games now on higher details/framerates because you are unsatisfied with your current gaming performance then go for it. A 970/980 won't be bad in 6 months.

 

[batman2million]

I posted this at Tom's hardware and didn't get a working response so I'm gonna try here.

I just built my new rig and I have a lot of little issues that I believe can be fixed via a BIOs updated. I'll try to keep them short. First things first:

Specs:
i7 6700k stock
Gigabyte gaming 7 z170 (rev 1.0) (Firmware F3)
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
SAMSUNG 950 PRO SERIES SSD PCIE M.2 512MB (Primary - Win 10 installed)
GTX 780 Stock
750W PSU - Corsair
Windows 10 Pro


1. My boot time is way too slow. The gigabyte screen flashes twice, then a blinking cursor shows up taking all together a good 25-30 seconds before Win 10 boots up. I have the OS installed in PCIE SSD.

2. Samsung magician is giving me read at 1900 mbs and write at 900mbs for the PCIe SSD. Is that correct? I'd assume it should be faster. And under "OS Optimization" is tell me my OS cannot be optimized.

3. I assumed I can fixed the problems by updating the BIOs. I tried to update it via Q-flash and got "invalid BIOs Image" via USB. I also tried with @BIOs. I did try to do it in increments, from F3-F4, but it wouldn't work. @BIOs would just keep flashing "writing" "erasing" at 0% and eventually fail. I also tried updating via dos and it just hangs there on loading bios image.
Got scared and didn't do it again. I've formatted it to FAT32 and put all three files on the root of the drive.

Let me know if there's any other information you guys might need.

 

[hooijdonk17]

When's the I need a New PC 2016 thread coming?



Back when, I was considering getting an R7 370 as an upgrade for my 7770, but the other day I started looking at recent benches and it seems quite dumb to buy one now that the GTX950 is out and beats it handily on every game? My only hesistance is that I haven't used an nVidia card in over a decade and I really don't feel comfortable switching over, I'm an animal of habit Would a 3GB R9 280, 3GB R9280X, or 4GB R9 380 be worth the money at this time? You guys told me the 2GB R9 380 is no good and broke my heart already.. Planning to game on 1080p, aiming for 60 fps, but not necesserily at Ultra detail.

 

[Mikeside]

I've just put everything in my Corsair 540

Holy shit, best case I've ever had. So nice having the PSU and all the cables separate to the main components. I just wish I could fit 3x 3.5" drives in there

 

[komplanen]

I just wish I could fit 3x 3.5" drives in there

Time to upgrade to bigger platter size

 

[knitoe]

I've just put everything in my Corsair 540

Holy shit, best case I've ever had. So nice having the PSU and all the cables separate to the main components. I just wish I could fit 3x 3.5" drives in there

I have 3x 3.5" drives in mine. The normal two at the bottom of the case. With the third, I stuff it in one of the 5.25" bays using styrofoam to keep it in place.

 

[SmartWaffles]

I posted this at Tom's hardware and didn't get a working response so I'm gonna try here.

I just built my new rig and I have a lot of little issues that I believe can be fixed via a BIOs updated. I'll try to keep them short. First things first:

Specs:
i7 6700k stock
Gigabyte gaming 7 z170 (rev 1.0) (Firmware F3)
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
SAMSUNG 950 PRO SERIES SSD PCIE M.2 512MB (Primary - Win 10 installed)
GTX 780 Stock
750W PSU - Corsair
Windows 10 Pro


1. My boot time is way too slow. The gigabyte screen flashes twice, then a blinking cursor shows up taking all together a good 25-30 seconds before Win 10 boots up. I have the OS installed in PCIE SSD.

2. Samsung magician is giving me read at 1900 mbs and write at 900mbs for the PCIe SSD. Is that correct? I'd assume it should be faster. And under "OS Optimization" is tell me my OS cannot be optimized.

3. I assumed I can fixed the problems by updating the BIOs. I tried to update it via Q-flash and got "invalid BIOs Image" via USB. I also tried with @BIOs. I did try to do it in increments, from F3-F4, but it wouldn't work. @BIOs would just keep flashing "writing" "erasing" at 0% and eventually fail. I also tried updating via dos and it just hangs there on loading bios image.
Got scared and didn't do it again. I've formatted it to FAT32 and put all three files on the root of the drive.

Let me know if there's any other information you guys might need.

I have a strong feeling this might be a motherboard issue, but I don't have a lot of experience with M.2 SSDs. Can you find a SATA SSD to see if there are still problems?

 

[DUFFMCWALIN]

Thanks all. My apartment is mostly carpet and I'm hesitant to put the tower directly on it. Do any of you use a tower stand or have an idea to prop that tower up a bit. Should I not worry about it? The carpet isn't super long, but still.

 

[j-wood]

I posted this in the windows 10 troubleshooting thread, but that doesn't seem to be super active anymore, figured I'd try in here.

My new PC i built last month seems to have some kind of memory leak going on.

Out of the blue, something crazy is happening with my ram and I cannot figure out what.

I have 16GB of DDR4. For some reason, my committed ram just keeps climbing higher and higher until eventually I'll be playing a game and I'll get a low memory warning.

The thing is, in resource monitor, it doesn't add up. I don't understand.

Anyone have any ideas what I can do? As you can see in the screen shot, right now I have 8.5GB committed, and this is after my PC has been running for a little over a day. As you can also see, if you now add up my in use/available values, they don't come close to 16GB anymore.

 

[PolishQ]

I posted this in the windows 10 troubleshooting thread, but that doesn't seem to be super active anymore, figured I'd try in here.

My new PC i built last month seems to have some kind of memory leak going on.

Out of the blue, something crazy is happening with my ram and I cannot figure out what.

I have 16GB of DDR4. For some reason, my committed ram just keeps climbing higher and higher until eventually I'll be playing a game and I'll get a low memory warning.

The thing is, in resource monitor, it doesn't add up. I don't understand.

Anyone have any ideas what I can do? As you can see in the screen shot, right now I have 8.5GB committed, and this is after my PC has been running for a little over a day. As you can also see, if you now add up my in use/available values, they don't come close to 16GB anymore.

I don't know what's going on, but the answer seems to lie in that orange "modified" section of the memory allocation bar.

 

[benedictm]

Well, here's what I recommend for now:

http://imgur.com/6OhVzhX
1 x Samsung SSD SM951-NVMe 512GB, M.2 (MZVPV512HDGL-00000)
1 x Intel Core i7-5820K, 6x 3.30GHz, boxed without cooler (BX80648I75820K)
1 x G.Skill RipJaws 4 blue DIMM kit 16GB, DDR4-3000, CL15-16-16-35 (F4-3000C15Q-16GRBB)
1 x Zotac GeForce GTX 970, 4GB GDDR5, 2x DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort (ZT-90101-10P)
1 x MSI X99A SLI Plus (7885-023R)
1 x Cryorig H5 universal (CR-5HA)
1 x Fractal Design Define S, noise-insulated (FD-CA-DEF-S-BK)
Total of all best prices: £ 1107.11

Depending on what existing parts you already have, this could be cheaper. The SM951 is newer and better than the XP941, and while at first glance this parts list costs more, you do get a CPU cooler that your old list didn't have, and a much nicer and better case for airflow and noise dampening.

Thanks very much for this - I think this looks great.

Just out of morbid curiosity I tried a build without Xeon but with a Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz and a Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard to get it under a £1000 (with a PSU as well). Everything else the same as yours so i think I will go one of those routes.

Thanks again for advice - much appreciated.

 

[knitoe]

Thanks all. My apartment is mostly carpet and I'm hesitant to put the tower directly on it. Do any of you use a tower stand or have an idea to prop that tower up a bit. Should I not worry about it? The carpet isn't super long, but still.

It's simple as just putting something flat underneath your case. A cut up cardboard box works fine.

 

[j-wood]

I don't know what's going on, but the answer seems to lie in that orange "modified" section of the memory allocation bar.

Right, but I have no idea what that is. Honestly, my desktop is mostly used for internet and gaming. Yesterday I did a fresh boot, played some fallout 4, checked GAF, and that was it. Closed all of it out, left steam running.

This morning that's what my committed was up to.

 

[PolishQ]

I posted this in the windows 10 troubleshooting thread, but that doesn't seem to be super active anymore, figured I'd try in here.

My new PC i built last month seems to have some kind of memory leak going on.

Out of the blue, something crazy is happening with my ram and I cannot figure out what.

I have 16GB of DDR4. For some reason, my committed ram just keeps climbing higher and higher until eventually I'll be playing a game and I'll get a low memory warning.

The thing is, in resource monitor, it doesn't add up. I don't understand.

Anyone have any ideas what I can do? As you can see in the screen shot, right now I have 8.5GB committed, and this is after my PC has been running for a little over a day. As you can also see, if you now add up my in use/available values, they don't come close to 16GB anymore.

Did you, by any chance, decrease the size of your pagefile? If so, try setting it back to "system managed".

 

[Mikeside]

I have 3x 3.5" drives in mine. The normal two at the bottom of the case. With the third, I stuff it in one of the 5.25" bays using styrofoam to keep it in place.

I'm ordering brackets to put it in the spare 5.25" bay.

I've already got a front panel with card readers & usb on it. It doesn't clip in properly which is annoying. I'm thinking of ripping the tool-free thing they have out and seeing if there are screws underneath.
Anybody else had this issue in the 540?



edit:

also, weird thing, I've got a little microphone icon on the top right of my desktop. it won't go away. I've tried ending processes in task manager & closing everything I can, but it remains. I can't interact with it in any way, my mouse just stays underneath it. Anybody know wtf this might be?

 

[j-wood]

Did you, by any chance, decrease the size of your pagefile? If so, try setting it back to "system managed".

I didn't manually. I am using a Samsung 850 evo and initially installed their tool and used the "lifespan" profile, until I realized the tool had compatibility issues with windows 10 so I uninstalled it.

That was over a month ago though and this issue just started last week. The pagefile is set to whatever default is, unless that tool changed it.

 

[DUFFMCWALIN]

It's simple as just putting something flat underneath your case. A cut up cardboard box works fine.

I like the no money part too. Awesome thank you.

 

[openrob]

Well, I bought the riser cable!
I guess maybe then I'll try to run my graphics card outside of my case over the weekend as proof of concept?
Has anyone ever seen any mods like that, with the card outside of the SFF case?

Where did you get them, as I need something like that for my build?

 

[industrian]

I didn't manually. I am using a Samsung 850 evo and initially installed their tool and used the "lifespan" profile, until I realized the tool had compatibility issues with windows 10 so I uninstalled it.

That was over a month ago though and this issue just started last week. The pagefile is set to whatever default is, unless that tool changed it.

I'd check if the tool changed it or not.

I quickly googled and found this. It may or may not help you: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1765186/memory-issues-installing-samsung-ssd.html

 

[j-wood]

So what should my page file size be set to? And should it stay on the SSD?

 

[industrian]

So what should my page file size be set to? And should it stay on the SSD?

When in doubt, let the system manage it.

If you don't know where to modify the settings: right click on This PC, choose Properties, Advanced System Settings > Performance Settings > Advanced.

 

[Shadowhaxor]

Thanks all. My apartment is mostly carpet and I'm hesitant to put the tower directly on it. Do any of you use a tower stand or have an idea to prop that tower up a bit. Should I not worry about it? The carpet isn't super long, but still.

I had the same problem. And while I'm planning on putting laminate in my office, that's a few months off. But I have a solution tha'ts under $20 bucks and looks fantastic.

Head over to Homedepot or Lowes and get a piece of shelving.

(1) 12 in. x 36 in. Laminate Decorative Shelf (comes in Black, White, Cherry, Brown). if you need a larger piece, they have that as well.
(4) General-Duty Swivel Caster (up to 40 pounds). If your case is heavier, get 1 more and place it in the middle.
(16) 1/2 wood screws. (20) if you add an extra wheel in the center.

Take the wheels and attach them to the corners of the shelfing, but not the absolute edge or you run the risk of splinting the wood. You'll need 4 screws per wheel.

Once you're done, that's it. You have a support off the carpet that supports up to 40 pounds. I currently have a R5 Define on mine and it's working like a champ. For $15 bucks, you get can PC off the floor, while looking stylish. Plus you can wheel the PC around if you need to do work on it, etc.

 

[DUFFMCWALIN]

I had the same problem. And while I'm planning on putting laminate in my office, that's a few months off. But I have a solution tha'ts under $20 bucks and looks fantastic.

Head over to Homedepot or Lowes and get a piece of shelving.

(1) 12 in. x 36 in. Laminate Decorative Shelf (comes in Black, White, Cherry, Brown). if you need a larger piece, they have that as well.
(4) General-Duty Swivel Caster (up to 40 pounds). If your case is heavier, get 1 more and place it in the middle.
(16) 1/2 wood screws. (20) if you add an extra wheel in the center.

Take the wheels and attach them to the corners of the shelfing, but not the absolute edge or you run the risk of splinting the wood. You'll need 4 screws per wheel.

Once you're done, that's it. You have a support off the carpet that supports up to 40 pounds. I currently have a R5 Define on mine and it's working like a champ. For $15 bucks, you get can PC off the floor, while looking stylish. Plus you can wheel the PC around if you need to do work on it, etc.

That's a really nifty way of making a platform. I like it. I could probably go get a decorative shelf that has a light finish like my desk. Thanks for the idea. I think I might go with it this weekend and use cardboard until then.

 

[ISee]

So what should my page file size be set to? And should it stay on the SSD?

Having it on a fast drive isn't a bad idea at all. When it comes to size, it was about one and a half times the size of the built-in memory a while ago. However, this is only partially correct today. With 2 GB of RAM, a 3 GB pagefile size makes sense. But a pagefile size of 24GB for 16GB of ram is overkill.
Personally I just let Windows 10 use the default pagefile options and have no issues (16gb of ram, ssd). If you want to use a specific value, take something between 2,5-4gb. This should be more than enough.

 

[RGM79]

The SM951 was an OEM-only product which is officially succeeded by the 950 Pro NVMe SSD which is intended for purchase by retail customers.

The SM951 comes with no end-user warranty like most OEM products, the 950 Pro has a 5-year warranty.

Thanks very much for this - I think this looks great.

Just out of morbid curiosity I tried a build without Xeon but with a Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz and a Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard to get it under a £1000 (with a PSU as well). Everything else the same as yours so i think I will go one of those routes.

Thanks again for advice - much appreciated.

Whoops, looks like my knowledge of M.2 SSDs is outdated. The 950 Pro 512GB is quite expensive at £252 though, so maybe he should drop down to the 256GB model at £132.

You may want to consider that. The lack of warranty on the SM951 may be an issue for you, but in any case the old XP941 isn't that good of a choice. As the hierarchy goes..

Anandtech found the XP941 to be quite fast, but still couldn't wholly recommend it over a standard SATA 6Gbps SSD. Their review of the SM951 was quite positive, they found the jump up in performance from the XP941 to the SM951 to be better than that of a standard SATA 6Gbps SSD to the XP941. And now, the SM951 NVMe edition is another slight upgrade on top of that.

When's the I need a New PC 2016 thread coming?



Back when, I was considering getting an R7 370 as an upgrade for my 7770, but the other day I started looking at recent benches and it seems quite dumb to buy one now that the GTX950 is out and beats it handily on every game? My only hesistance is that I haven't used an nVidia card in over a decade and I really don't feel comfortable switching over, I'm an animal of habit Would a 3GB R9 280, 3GB R9280X, or 4GB R9 380 be worth the money at this time? You guys told me the 2GB R9 380 is no good and broke my heart already.. Planning to game on 1080p, aiming for 60 fps, but not necesserily at Ultra detail.

Whether it's worth it depends on how much it costs. Again, could you tell us what country you're in and maybe link us to websites for retailers you will be shopping with?

edit: also, weird thing, I've got a little microphone icon on the top right of my desktop. it won't go away. I've tried ending processes in task manager & closing everything I can, but it remains. I can't interact with it in any way, my mouse just stays underneath it. Anybody know wtf this might be?

Maybe it's your monitor's on screen display? Take a picture?

 

[theRizzle]

I posted this at Tom's hardware and didn't get a working response so I'm gonna try here.

I just built my new rig and I have a lot of little issues that I believe can be fixed via a BIOs updated. I'll try to keep them short. First things first:

Specs:
i7 6700k stock
Gigabyte gaming 7 z170 (rev 1.0) (Firmware F3)
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200
SAMSUNG 950 PRO SERIES SSD PCIE M.2 512MB (Primary - Win 10 installed)
GTX 780 Stock
750W PSU - Corsair
Windows 10 Pro


1. My boot time is way too slow. The gigabyte screen flashes twice, then a blinking cursor shows up taking all together a good 25-30 seconds before Win 10 boots up. I have the OS installed in PCIE SSD.

2. Samsung magician is giving me read at 1900 mbs and write at 900mbs for the PCIe SSD. Is that correct? I'd assume it should be faster. And under "OS Optimization" is tell me my OS cannot be optimized.

3. I assumed I can fixed the problems by updating the BIOs. I tried to update it via Q-flash and got "invalid BIOs Image" via USB. I also tried with @BIOs. I did try to do it in increments, from F3-F4, but it wouldn't work. @BIOs would just keep flashing "writing" "erasing" at 0% and eventually fail. I also tried updating via dos and it just hangs there on loading bios image.
Got scared and didn't do it again. I've formatted it to FAT32 and put all three files on the root of the drive.

Let me know if there's any other information you guys might need.

I'm having a similar experience with my (also similar) new build (i7-6700k, Gigabyte Gaming 5-G170-N mobo, Samsung 950 M.2 SSD) actually. I am coming from a i7-2700k and a Corsair Force GT 250gb SSD and the boot time was much quicker on that machine. I was expecting it to be much quicker with this setup but I'd say I'm also around 20-30 seconds from cold boot to Windows.

 

[Mikeside]

Whoops, looks like my knowledge of M.2 SSDs is outdated. The 950 Pro 512GB is quite expensive at £252 though, so maybe he should drop down to the 256GB model at £132.

You may want to consider that. The lack of warranty on the SM951 may be an issue for you, but in any case the old XP941 isn't that good of a choice. As the hierarchy goes..

Anandtech found the XP941 to be quite fast, but still couldn't wholly recommend it over a standard SATA 6Gbps SSD. Their review of the SM951 was quite positive, they found the jump up in performance from the XP941 to the SM951 to be better than that of a standard SATA 6Gbps SSD to the XP941. And now, the SM951 NVMe edition is another slight upgrade on top of that.



Whether it's worth it depends on how much it costs. Again, could you tell us what country you're in and maybe link us to websites for retailers you will be shopping with?



Maybe it's your monitor's on screen display? Take a picture?

That's what I thought but it's on both my screens. I'll take a pic when i get home

 

[Hands of Stone]

Got a bit of a problem, I bought a cpu cooler (Hydro 212), had no problems installing it but when I went to turn on my PC, all it does is turn for a few seconds and turn off. Over and over again. No start up screen either just on and off.

Could it be the PSU?

Here are my specs



CPU: Intel Core i5-2310 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Samsung 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($314.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Rosewill Galaxy-01 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($52.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($14.88 @ OutletPC)

 

[theRizzle]

Got a bit of a problem, I bought a cpu cooler (Hydro 212), had no problems installing it but when I went to turn on my PC, all it does is turn for a few seconds and turn off. Over and over again. No start up screen either just on and off.

Could it be the PSU?

Here are my specs



CPU: Intel Core i5-2310 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Samsung 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($314.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Rosewill Galaxy-01 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($52.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($14.88 @ OutletPC)

Sounds like you forgot to plug the smaller power cable back into your motherboard.

 

[flyinpiranha]

So I couldn't wait, ordered the i7-6700k and have the Asus Z170-a mobo, for a slight overclock is the Coilermaster 212 sufficient? Its what I ordered along with the processor.

 

[scitek]

Is there a good, say, sub-$100 router that would net me decent wifi speeds from a gigabit internet connection? I'll have my desktop PC wired, but everything else likely won't be.

 

[opticalmace]

So I couldn't wait, ordered the i7-6700k and have the Asus Z170-a mobo, for a slight overclock is the Coilermaster 212 sufficient? Its what I ordered along with the processor.

212 evo? Yup, great cooler.

 

[Sleeping Lesson]

Is there a good, say, sub-$100 router that would net me decent wifi speeds from a gigabit internet connection? I'll have my desktop PC wired, but everything else likely won't be.

Honestly there's probably 100 different routers that would work. I use this Netgear AC Router with my 300 Mbps connection and get full bandwidth on AC-capable devices.

 

[BasicMath]

Hoping someone points me in the right direction.

My PC is rebooting. It's somewhat random but usually happens when there's a game running for an hour or so. There's no windows log or error for it beyond the "You didn't turn off your PC properly, dumbass" message windows spits out after the reboot.

Observations so far
-Temps look good. Low 50max on CPU. 65 on GPU. GPU fanless mode has been disabled so it should be better. Case airflow is great.
-PSU is 2 months old. A EVGA 850w P2. Has worked without issue. Until now?
-Crucial MX200 SSD was just added last week. And the problem DID start a few days after this addition.
-New installation of Windows with drivers etc up to date.

Kinda stuck here but my gut tells me to check the ssd. Problem is how.

 

[Hands of Stone]

Sounds like you forgot to plug the smaller power cable back into your motherboard.

First thing I checked and it was indeed plugged in. Anything else it could be?

 

[opticalmace]

Hoping someone points me in the right direction.

My PC is rebooting. It's somewhat random but usually happens when there's a game running for an hour or so. There's no windows log or error for it beyond the "You didn't turn off your PC properly, dumbass" message windows spits out after the reboot.

Observations so far
-Temps look good. Low 50max on CPU. 65 on GPU. GPU fanless mode has been disabled so it should be better. Case airflow is great.
-PSU is 2 months old. A EVGA 850w P2. Has worked without issue. Until now?
-Crucial MX200 SSD was just added last week. And the problem DID start a few days after this addition.
-New installation of Windows with drivers etc up to date.

Kinda stuck here but my gut tells me to check the ssd. Problem is how.

CPU overclocked?

My first guess would be PSU. Do you have another one you could use to test this?

 

[Sleeping Lesson]

-Crucial MX200 SSD was just added last week. And the problem DID start a few days after this addition.

I think you found your culprit. In my experience issues that occur soon after a change like this at almost always related. Check for firmware updates for your SSD, there have been issues with Crucial drives in the past that have been fixed with firmware (one of which I experienced myself and have had zero problem after updating the firmware).

 

[hooijdonk17]

Whether it's worth it depends on how much it costs. Again, could you tell us what country you're in and maybe link us to websites for retailers you will be shopping with?

Alright, alright. I currently live in Turkey. Some sites to look up prices for you then..

Computer e-tailers: Usually decent prices, I picked trustworthy ones.
http://www.istanbulbilisim.com.tr/
http://www.bizdehesapli.com/
http://www.smallman.com.tr/

Retail electronic chains: Usually pricier, but can have better stock.
http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/
http://www.gold.com.tr/
http://www.mediamarkt.com.tr/

General e-tailers: Good prices, poor stock, can sometimes have good discounts
http://www.hepsiburada.com/
http://www.sanalmarketim.com/
http://www.webdenal.com/
http://www.hizlial.com/
http://www.netsiparis.com/
http://www.incehesap.com/

Conversion note: 1 USD = 3 TRY (roughly)

 

[theRizzle]

First thing I checked and it was indeed plugged in. Anything else it could be?

Like you said, it could definitely be your PSU... but hopefully not! I'm assuming you had this system up and running fine until you installed the 212? In my experience when you have something like this happen after opening up and unplugging, it's usually a missed/loose connection (and the 4-pin power is almost ALWAYS the thing that gets missed, which is why I suggested it first).

 

[flyinpiranha]

212 evo? Yup, great cooler.

Cool, thanks!

 

[scitek]

Honestly there's probably 100 different routers that would work. I use this Netgear AC Router with my 300 Mbps connection and get full bandwidth on AC-capable devices.

Thanks very much for the quick reply. I am moving into a new place today with a very tight budget, and you just saved me some frustration.

 

[Hands of Stone]

Like you said, it could definitely be your PSU... but hopefully not! I'm assuming you had this system up and running fine until you installed the 212? In my experience when you have something like this happen after opening up and unplugging, it's usually a missed/loose connection (and the 4-pin power is almost ALWAYS the thing that gets missed, which is why I suggested it first).

Would you recommend a 600W PSU? That should be sufficient power wise yeah?

 

[Chris R]

So is a "Display Driver Has Stopped Working" warning showing up yet again a sign my GPU is on the way out?

I hacked my registry to try and add a TDR delay value, and I guess I'll need to find something that lets me underclock my nVidia card a bit. I really don't want to buy a new card before the next gen comes out, if this card dies I'll just play games my CPU can play and switch to the PS4 while I wait

 

[Shadowhaxor]

Honestly there's probably 100 different routers that would work. I use this Netgear AC Router with my 300 Mbps connection and get full bandwidth on AC-capable devices.

300Mbps? Good Lord.....

 

[Wowfunhappy]

There should really be some kind of warning in the OP that the recommended build spreadsheet is outdated.

 

[theRizzle]

Would you recommend a 600W PSU? That should be sufficient power wise yeah?

600W is probably better for your 970 since their minimum recommendation is 500W for that card I believe, but you should still be able to boot your PC with the 500W you have... unless it is in fact dead.

 

[Sleeping Lesson]

300Mbps? Good Lord.....

It's actually a bit frustrating because I'm smack-dab in the middle of the Google Fiber rollout area of Austin, but my apartment complex never signed up so I'm stuck with Time Warner. I guess I shouldn't complain with 300 Mbps.

 

[Tetraeon]

So the beast is built and I'm diving back in to make a few quick improvements on the cable organization side of things (I didn't do the best job initially and would like a cleaner look ideally)... while I have the thing open, I was wondering if any of you would recommend swapping out Intel's stock CPU cooler for something a bit nicer, or is the stock cooler completely fine provided my temps are good? I've got two case fans at the back of the case and one beneath the PSU, would it be more advantageous to spend that CPU cooler moolah on a few more case fans at the front to increase general airflow?

 

[hooijdonk17]

So the beast is built and I'm diving back in to make a few quick improvements on the cable organization side of things (I didn't do the best job initially and would like a cleaner look ideally)... while I have the thing open, I was wondering if any of you would recommend swapping out Intel's stock CPU cooler for something a bit nicer, or is the stock cooler completely fine provided my temps are good? I've got two case fans at the back of the case and one beneath the PSU, would it be more advantageous to spend that CPU cooler moolah on a few more case fans at the front to increase general airflow?

You have enough fans for airflow but one more at the front wouldn't hurt. Stock cooler at stock clockspeeds will always work fine but loud. I'd suggest getting a good cooler for comfort and overclocking headroom. I went with the Cooler Master T4, but if you can find the 212 EVO for cheap or the TX3 if you want to spend even less than me, you should be golden.