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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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So the beast is built and I'm diving back in to make a few quick improvements on the cable organization side of things (I didn't do the best job initially and would like a cleaner look ideally)... while I have the thing open, I was wondering if any of you would recommend swapping out Intel's stock CPU cooler for something a bit nicer, or is the stock cooler completely fine provided my temps are good? I've got two case fans at the back of the case and one beneath the PSU, would it be more advantageous to spend that CPU cooler moolah on a few more case fans at the front to increase general airflow?

What CPU is it?
 

luoapp

Member
So the beast is built and I'm diving back in to make a few quick improvements on the cable organization side of things (I didn't do the best job initially and would like a cleaner look ideally)... while I have the thing open, I was wondering if any of you would recommend swapping out Intel's stock CPU cooler for something a bit nicer, or is the stock cooler completely fine provided my temps are good? I've got two case fans at the back of the case and one beneath the PSU, would it be more advantageous to spend that CPU cooler moolah on a few more case fans at the front to increase general airflow?

Why not just take a wait-and-see approach? Enjoying your shining new PC while keep an eye on the temp, then you can decide.
 

vicinity

Neo Member
Got a bit of a problem, I bought a cpu cooler (Hydro 212), had no problems installing it but when I went to turn on my PC, all it does is turn for a few seconds and turn off. Over and over again. No start up screen either just on and off.

Could it be the PSU?
Check and see if your cooler is touching any of the capacitors around the CPU socket.
 

BasicMath

Member
CPU overclocked?

My first guess would be PSU. Do you have another one you could use to test this?
CPU has a modest and stable over lock. I've had that OC longer than the PSU, SSD, GPU and some RAM.

I think you found your culprit. In my experience issues that occur soon after a change like this at almost always related. Check for firmware updates for your SSD, there have been issues with Crucial drives in the past that have been fixed with firmware (one of which I experienced myself and have had zero problem after updating the firmware).
Firmware was updated when I got the drive like a week or so ago. Best thing I can do is downgrade it to see if it works better. Is there any way to test the darn thing though?
 
CPU has a modest and stable over lock. I've had that OC longer than the PSU, SSD, GPU and some RAM.


Firmware was updated when I got the drive like a week or so ago. Best thing I can do is downgrade it to see if it works better. Is there any way to test the darn thing though?
I would return it to stock clocks just to exclude it as a possibility. Maybe run memtest86 to exclude ram problems.

Not sure about testing the ssd, I think there are some programs but I can't imagine an SSD would cause it to randomly reboot with no bsod or otherwise.
 

Agraavan

Member
Hello, guys.

I'm willing to change my MoBo and CPU, while keeping the rest of my rig, and I would apreciate some help:

Here are the items I'd like to keep:

Memory Ram:Corsair Vengeance 4x4gb
VGA: MSI GTX 680
Power Supply: Corsair 650w
I don't know the rest...

My current MoBo is the ASUS M4A79T Deluxe and I really can't remember the Processor, but it's an AMD that ran its course a long time ago.
I have no preference between brand, either on the MoBo or the Processor, all I know is that I want the best for my bucks and I intend to do some heavy gaming, streaming and watch some HD videos.
I don't have much of a notion of prices, but I may be looking for something around ~$500/700 range, for both items. What do you guys suggest? Will I have any problems with the items I wanna keep if, say, I change from AMD to Intel? If I change the MoBo will there be any kind of incompatibility?

Thank you, guys.

[...]

That's a decent sized case, you don't really have much to worry about, you won't even need an aftermarket CPU cooler unless you don't mind getting one for lower load temperatures and a bit quieter fan noise. Well, $500 is quite a lot for just a processor, motherboard, and maybe a CPU cooler. This will suit you just fine if you don't need the ability to overclock:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($242.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $293.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-14 22:47 EST-0500

Or if you don't mind spending up to $500 and a bit over, maybe go with brand new Skylake parts including RAM and CPU cooler.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($289.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $519.76
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-14 22:51 EST-0500

I think I'm gonna dip on the Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler, Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard, G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory and include an Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Compound AS5-3.5G - OEM on Newegg for a total of $532.45.
I'm not from the US, so it's better for me to buy everything in one place to pay a single shipping and a receiving charge at the hotel. Now all I have to do is control my anxiety because I'll only be able to order it in January.
Last, I sure am not gonna overclock since I don't even have a clue where to start or what it is exactly, but if somehow down the road I change my mind, will I be able to do it without further aquisitions?
I asked for help on the thread to buy new parts for my PC, but It couldn't be as easy as I imagined...

I was trying to buy them on NewEgg, but their policies are kind of rigid and don't allow the billing adress to be different from the shipping adress. Seeing how I'm not from the US and wanted the hardwares to be delivered to the Hotel I will be staying in Florida, that's a no go.

The alternative is to buy it from OutletPC and Amazon, but the sum would be higher, I would have to pay two separated shipping and two receiving fee at the hotel. Unfortunately, it will have to do. The simple question here is: is OutletPC reliable? I saw some commentaries about the online store that made me uneasy.
 

luoapp

Member
I asked for help on the thread to buy new parts for my PC, but It couldn't be as easy as I imagined...

I was trying to buy them on NewEgg, but their policies are kind of rigid and don't allow the billing adress to be different from the shipping adress.

I do this all the time, maybe that's because your billing is a foreign address?
 

Theonik

Member
Got a bit of a problem, I bought a cpu cooler (Hydro 212), had no problems installing it but when I went to turn on my PC, all it does is turn for a few seconds and turn off. Over and over again. No start up screen either just on and off.

Could it be the PSU?
Funny you should mention this. I just fixed a problem almost exactly like this. In my case it was the PSU. Power indicators on all my components powered on correctly but the system would immediately shut down after being powered on while the PSU would keep running.

I would try to see if you know anyone that can lend you a spare PSU to test it.
 

rtcn63

Member
Sounds like the cooler isn't making proper contact with the CPU, causing the motherboard to shut down the PC to prevent overheating.
 
Got a bit of a problem, I bought a cpu cooler (Hydro 212), had no problems installing it but when I went to turn on my PC, all it does is turn for a few seconds and turn off. Over and over again. No start up screen either just on and off.

Could it be the PSU?

Here are my specs



CPU: Intel Core i5-2310 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Samsung 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Memory: Samsung 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($314.99 @ Micro Center)
Case: Rosewill Galaxy-01 ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($52.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($14.88 @ OutletPC)

Sounds like the cooler isn't making proper contact with the CPU, causing the motherboard to shut down the PC to prevent overheating.
I concur with rtcn63.
 

Anth0ny

Member
I'm looking for 16GB of DDR4 RAM and I'm having a hell of a time trying to choose what... brand? I think?

zBlTaGu.png

I'm just looking at the top sellers at NCIX and I have no idea what any of this stuff means. Why do the prices fluctuate so much for the same amount of RAM? What's the difference between one brand of 16GB DDR4 RAM and another? What's the difference between DDR4 2133 MHZ and DDR4 2400 MHZ? I'm so confused :(

Should I just buy the cheapest one I can find? Or is there a price/performance sweet spot that someone can point out for me?

Thanks in advance :)
 
I'm looking for 16GB of DDR4 RAM and I'm having a hell of a time trying to choose what... brand? I think?



I'm just looking at the top sellers at NCIX and I have no idea what any of this stuff means. Why do the prices fluctuate so much for the same amount of RAM? What's the difference between one brand of 16GB DDR4 RAM and another? What's the difference between DDR4 2133 MHZ and DDR4 2400 MHZ? I'm so confused :(

Should I just buy the cheapest one I can find? Or is there a price/performance sweet spot that someone can point out for me?

Thanks in advance :)

Are you only looking at NCIX? If not, I'd look at this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

G.Skill has good value, go for DDR4-3000 (or 2800 or 3200, depending on prices). The higher the better, but past ~3000 you'll start to pay a premium. I assume you're on Skylake.
 

x3sphere

Member
I'm having a similar experience with my (also similar) new build (i7-6700k, Gigabyte Gaming 5-G170-N mobo, Samsung 950 M.2 SSD) actually. I am coming from a i7-2700k and a Corsair Force GT 250gb SSD and the boot time was much quicker on that machine. I was expecting it to be much quicker with this setup but I'd say I'm also around 20-30 seconds from cold boot to Windows.

I have the same slow booting issue on a 512GB 950 Pro with an Asus X99 Deluxe mobo.

The problem appears to be widespread from what I've seen, maybe future BIOS updates will improve it. Aside from the boot issue, the drive is ridiculously fast.
 

RGM79

Member
Alright, alright. I currently live in Turkey. Some sites to look up prices for you then..

Computer e-tailers: Usually decent prices, I picked trustworthy ones.
http://www.istanbulbilisim.com.tr/
http://www.bizdehesapli.com/
http://www.smallman.com.tr/

Retail electronic chains: Usually pricier, but can have better stock.
http://www.vatanbilgisayar.com/
http://www.gold.com.tr/
http://www.mediamarkt.com.tr/

General e-tailers: Good prices, poor stock, can sometimes have good discounts
http://www.hepsiburada.com/
http://www.sanalmarketim.com/
http://www.webdenal.com/
http://www.hizlial.com/
http://www.netsiparis.com/
http://www.incehesap.com/

Conversion note: 1 USD = 3 TRY (roughly)

How much would you like to spend? After searching around, it seems that these two are the best prices I can find for an R9 380 4GB model.

http://www.webdenal.com/sapphire-11242-13-41g_817980.html
http://www.bizdehesapli.com/sapphire-nitro-11242-13-41g-r9380-4gb-ddr5-256bit-urun-11242-13-41G
 

Agraavan

Member
Have you talked with Newegg customer service? There maybe some way around it.

Nope. Those were the answers:

"I apologize for the inconvenience but Newegg does not accepted international cards. It needs to be a card issued within the US.
Paypal is a no go either. You can purchase an American Express gift card or Visa gift card but the billing info needs to reflect a US address."
 

luoapp

Member
Nope. Those were the answers:

"I apologize for the inconvenience but Newegg does not accepted international cards. It needs to be a card issued within the US.
Paypal is a no go either. You can purchase an American Express gift card or Visa gift card but the billing info needs to reflect a US address."

bitcoin? lol
 

Anth0ny

Member
Are you only looking at NCIX? If not, I'd look at this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

G.Skill has good value, go for DDR4-3000 (or 2800 or 3200, depending on prices). The higher the better, but past ~3000 you'll start to pay a premium. I assume you're on Skylake.

Sounds good, thanks!

I'm slowly building this PC piece by piece. I was planning to grab either an i7 6700K or a i7 4790K. Haven't done much research yet but I'm guessing I should go with the 6700K?
 

RGM79

Member
Sounds good, thanks!

I'm slowly building this PC piece by piece. I was planning to grab either an i7 6700K or a i7 4790K. Haven't done much research yet but I'm guessing I should go with the 6700K?

If you're getting DDR4, you cannot use the i7 4790K as it is incompatible. What parts are you buying, and what parts do you already have? Do you have a parts list or a plan of what you want to buy?

Over how long a period are you intending to buy parts? If it's more than a month or two, we don't advise it. It's usually better to save up and buy most of your parts at once. When you buy PC components, there's a small chance that some parts could be defective. If you buy some parts early, all you're doing is wasting the warranty coverage and return period by letting it run out. If you find out the motherboard, RAM, graphics card or whatever is defective several weeks later, you will have already lost the chance for an easy exchange/return the parts with the retailer and you will have to deal with the manufacturer's warranty instead.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Hey, what do you guys use to watch for deals on PC parts? I've used techbargains for a while but for some reason they did a redesign and they appear to source a lot less sites now.
 

RGM79

Member
Hey, what do you guys use to watch for deals on PC parts? I've used techbargains for a while but for some reason they did a redesign and they appear to source a lot less sites now.

PCPartPicker is useful for seeing current prices from multiple retailers. They take rebates, bundle deals, and coupon codes into the cost of items as well. As a price index they also track the historical cost of things up to the last two years. Otherwise, the Slickdeals forum is handy for keeping current with the latest bargains and promotions, and I usually use retailmenot or google searching to find coupon codes.
 

theRizzle

Member
I have the same slow booting issue on a 512GB 950 Pro with an Asus X99 Deluxe mobo.

The problem appears to be widespread from what I've seen, maybe future BIOS updates will improve it. Aside from the boot issue, the drive is ridiculously fast.

Hmmm... interesting. I hadn't really done much looking into it as I wasn't even sure it was really an issue, just something that I noticed. I did see a couple posts from people mentioning the NVMe driver from the Samsung site as a possible reason for the slow boots. I'll give that a try when I get home and see how it goes.
 

Anth0ny

Member
If you're getting DDR4, you cannot use the i7 4790K as it is incompatible. What parts are you buying, and what parts do you already have? Do you have a parts list or a plan of what you want to buy?

Good thing I asked :)

Over how long a period are you intending to buy parts? If it's more than a month or two, we don't advise it. It's usually better to save up and buy most of your parts at once. When you buy PC components, there's a small chance that some parts could be defective. If you buy some parts early, all you're doing is wasting the warranty coverage and return period by letting it run out. If you find out the motherboard, RAM, graphics card or whatever is defective several weeks later, you will have already lost the chance for an easy exchange/return the parts with the retailer and you will have to deal with the manufacturer's warranty instead.

Yeah, I was going to spread them across no more than two months. I'll admit I never considering parts being defective or warranty running out. that makes a lot of sense >_<

I just bought a case (NZXT H440) and a SSD (Crucial BX200 240GB). The current plan is:

i7 6700K
GTX 980ti
16GB DDR4 RAM (2800 or 3000)
not sure what MOBO yet but I know it has to be DDR4 compatible
Power Supply + Heat Sink (still gotta do research on that too)

Please point out anything stupid :)
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
Better monitor connection: HDMI 1.4b or Displayport 1.2?

My monitor and Mobo support both and I have no clue which to use...
 
Any people in here with their Steam libraries on an SSD? How much of a quality of life improvement would you say it makes for you? I'd love to do an SSD for my upcoming build, but would want at least 512GB if I"m going to think about having my game library on it too.
 
Any thoughts on this rig for $600. Can the motherboard support an upgrade in graphics card once some of the new ones come out? (Will add an SSD after purchase)

Processor: AMD FX 8150 8 core 3.60GHZ
Video Card: AMD RADEON HD 7950 3GB
RAM: 12GB
HDD: 2TB
SOUND CARD: HIGH DEFINITION S.C.
KILLER BLUETOOTH AND CARD READER
USB 3.0
BLURAY ROM DRIVE
LIQUID COOLED
2 LARGE RED LED FANS SUPER QUIET
WINDOWS 7 BUT FREE W10 UPGRADE.
 
I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but is there an estimated release for Pascal? I'm thinking of getting a 980ti if Pascal isn't coming until the end of the year.

Disclaimer: I play at 1080p 144hz (ideally). With no plans of doing VR or 4K anytime soon.
 
Any thoughts on this rig for $600. Can the motherboard support an upgrade in graphics card once some of the new ones come out? (Will add an SSD after purchase)

Processor: AMD FX 8150 8 core 3.60GHZ
Video Card: AMD RADEON HD 7950 3GB
RAM: 12GB
HDD: 2TB
SOUND CARD: HIGH DEFINITION S.C.
KILLER BLUETOOTH AND CARD READER
USB 3.0
BLURAY ROM DRIVE
LIQUID COOLED
2 LARGE RED LED FANS SUPER QUIET
WINDOWS 7 BUT FREE W10 UPGRADE.
Not good, skip.

I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but is there an estimated release for Pascal? I'm thinking of getting a 980ti and just reselling if Pascal isn't coming until the end of the year.

Disclaimer: I play at 1080p 144hz (ideally). With no plans of doing VR or 4K anytime soon.
I think May~June ish, based on just random rumours. Can't say for certain of course.
 

e90Mark

Member
Any people in here with their Steam libraries on an SSD? How much of a quality of life improvement would you say it makes for you? I'd love to do an SSD for my upcoming build, but would want at least 512GB if I"m going to think about having my game library on it too.
I have my most played games on my second SSD. Load times are a lot better, I think that's about it though.
I'm sure this has been asked a million times, but is there an estimated release for Pascal? I'm thinking of getting a 980ti if Pascal isn't coming until the end of the year.

Disclaimer: I play at 1080p 144hz (ideally). With no plans of doing VR or 4K anytime soon.

Q2/Q3 is still the estimate.
 

RGM79

Member
Better monitor connection: HDMI 1.4b or Displayport 1.2?

My monitor and Mobo support both and I have no clue which to use...
Does your monitor have speakers? I'd probably go with DP unless you want sound from the monitor speakers, in which case you want HDMI.

Any people in here with their Steam libraries on an SSD? How much of a quality of life improvement would you say it makes for you? I'd love to do an SSD for my upcoming build, but would want at least 512GB if I"m going to think about having my game library on it too.

I do, It makes games load very quickly. Quite nice for large games like GTAV, there's quite a lot of loading screens in the online portion of the game because of the need to connect to other players and to be moved around the map.

For around $150, you can get a decent 480~512GB SSD like a Samsung 850 Evo.

Any thoughts on this rig for $600. Can the motherboard support an upgrade in graphics card once some of the new ones come out? (Will add an SSD after purchase)

Processor: AMD FX 8150 8 core 3.60GHZ
Video Card: AMD RADEON HD 7950 3GB
RAM: 12GB
HDD: 2TB
SOUND CARD: HIGH DEFINITION S.C.
KILLER BLUETOOTH AND CARD READER
USB 3.0
BLURAY ROM DRIVE
LIQUID COOLED
2 LARGE RED LED FANS SUPER QUIET
WINDOWS 7 BUT FREE W10 UPGRADE.
It's sorta okay for used, but it's not that well performing. It will support the latest graphics cards and an SSD, but the CPU is a bottleneck.
 
I have my most played games on my second SSD. Load times are a lot better, I think that's about it though.


Q2/Q3 is still the estimate.

You have your steam library across multiple disks? I thought that was difficult to do when I looked into it a while ago.

Does your monitor have speakers? I'd probably go with DP unless you want sound from the monitor speakers, in which case you want HDMI.



I do, It makes games load very quickly. Quite nice for large games like GTAV, there's quite a lot of loading screens in the online portion of the game because of the need to connect to other players and to be moved around the map.

For around $150, you can get a decent 480~512GB SSD like a Samsung 850 Evo.


It's sorta okay for used, but it's not that well performing. It will support the latest graphics cards and an SSD, but the CPU is a bottleneck.

I'm targeting a 1K budget that includes OS, K/M and monitor, so that'd be a big chunk.
 

theRizzle

Member
Any people in here with their Steam libraries on an SSD? How much of a quality of life improvement would you say it makes for you? I'd love to do an SSD for my upcoming build, but would want at least 512GB if I"m going to think about having my game library on it too.

Steam allows you to have multiple "libraries" now so I have my most played/currently played games on my SSD, and then everything else on a WD Black drive (which is fast enough for most things honestly). I just transfer between them as needed and don't have any issues.
 

RayStorm

Member
My Asus Z170I is also quite slow to boot with a Samsung SM951 M2 (in the non-NVMe version). Though addmitedly it was not really fast either without it and with 2 ordinary SATA SSDs (that are still present). But it certainly takes quite some time for the BIOS to actually show up. Much longer than I have ever seen a PC take in fact.
 

RayStorm

Member
Steam allows you to have multiple "libraries" now so I have my most played/currently played games on my SSD, and then everything else on a WD Black drive (which is fast enough for most things honestly). I just transfer between them as needed and don't have any issues.

Steam does not natively support transfering installations of games between disks, does it? You still have to do that manually via windows explorer, right?
 
One more question...(on the opposite price range) I am pricing out a rig and wondering if it would be cheaper to put the thing together myself. I can pretty much match everything but the cooling system.

What sort of cooling would you need for:

Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
Asus X99-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Radion R9 Fury X
 

LilJoka

Member
One more question...(on the opposite price range) I am pricing out a rig and wondering if it would be cheaper to put the thing together myself. I can pretty much match everything but the cooling system.

What sort of cooling would you need for:

Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor
Asus X99-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
Radion R9 Fury X

In terms of CPU and Case?
Looking to go air? Noise a concern?
Overclocking CPU/GPU?
 
In terms of CPU and Case?
Looking to go air? Noise a concern?
Overclocking CPU/GPU?
Case is Corsair Vengeance C70 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case

The pre-built has a single 120mm Liquid Cooler for CPUs (that's the language used). From what I have read the air coolers are better, but would, say the Corsair H60 still work? I doubt I will overclock right away but perhaps sometime in the future. Would this still keep the temp in a safe range if/when I do decide to overclock?
 

Gavin Robertson

Neo Member
A little advice? I've got a bit of money coming so I'm considering upgrading my machine. My 3570k handles anything I throw at it without issue, but my 7950 is starting to show it's age. Jumping back to Nvidia is almost a certainty, and I'm tempted to go big with a 980ti, but that would mean a new PSU too, I only have a 600w supply. However, since I only play at 1080p, I think it might be overkill? Maybe a 980 would be fine? Or do I wait a few months for the next gen and the (inevitable?) price drop or latest new shiny thing?
 

inner-G

Banned
A little advice? I've got a bit of money coming so I'm considering upgrading my machine. My 3570k handles anything I throw at it without issue, but my 7950 is starting to show it's age. Jumping back to Nvidia is almost a certainty, and I'm tempted to go big with a 980ti, but that would mean a new PSU too, I only have a 600w supply. However, since I only play at 1080p, I think it might be overkill? Maybe a 980 would be fine? Or do I wait a few months for the next gen and the (inevitable?) price drop or latest new shiny thing?

for 1080p, you could get by on a 970 until pascal
 

e90Mark

Member
A little advice? I've got a bit of money coming so I'm considering upgrading my machine. My 3570k handles anything I throw at it without issue, but my 7950 is starting to show it's age. Jumping back to Nvidia is almost a certainty, and I'm tempted to go big with a 980ti, but that would mean a new PSU too, I only have a 600w supply. However, since I only play at 1080p, I think it might be overkill? Maybe a 980 would be fine? Or do I wait a few months for the next gen and the (inevitable?) price drop or latest new shiny thing?

What 600w PSU do you have? 600 is the recommended for the 980ti.

http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-980-ti/specifications
 
A little advice? I've got a bit of money coming so I'm considering upgrading my machine. My 3570k handles anything I throw at it without issue, but my 7950 is starting to show it's age. Jumping back to Nvidia is almost a certainty, and I'm tempted to go big with a 980ti, but that would mean a new PSU too, I only have a 600w supply. However, since I only play at 1080p, I think it might be overkill? Maybe a 980 would be fine? Or do I wait a few months for the next gen and the (inevitable?) price drop or latest new shiny thing?

600W is fine for a 980 Ti.
 

rtcn63

Member
First- what PSU do you have? Model and make. A good one should be able to handle the TI, at full GPU stress the system should be using 3-400W http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/nvidia_geforce_gtx_980_ti_review,8.html

Let's have a look at how much power draw we measure with this graphics card installed. The methodology: We have a device constantly monitoring the power draw from the PC. We simply stress the GPU, not the processor. The before and after wattage will tell us roughly how much power a graphics card is consuming under load. Our test system is based on an eight-core Intel Core i7-5960X Extreme Edition setup on the X99 chipset platform. This setup is clocked to 4.40 GHz on all CPU cores. Next to that we have energy saving functions disabled for this motherboard and processor (to ensure consistent benchmark results). We'll be calculating the GPU power consumption here, not the total PC power consumption.

Measured power consumption

System in IDLE = 92 Watts
System Wattage with GPU in FULL Stress = 332 Watts
Difference (GPU load) = 240 Watts
Add average IDLE wattage ~10 Watts
Subjective obtained GPU power consumption = ~ 250 Watts
 

RGM79

Member
Steam does not natively support transfering installations of games between disks, does it? You still have to do that manually via windows explorer, right?

Yep. To transfer between disks and libraries, you need to copy over the files, then uninstall the game via steam, then "reinstall" the game by telling it to redownload to the new location you just copied the game files to. Steam will recognize that the game files are already there and verify the files.

A little advice? I've got a bit of money coming so I'm considering upgrading my machine. My 3570k handles anything I throw at it without issue, but my 7950 is starting to show it's age. Jumping back to Nvidia is almost a certainty, and I'm tempted to go big with a 980ti, but that would mean a new PSU too, I only have a 600w supply. However, since I only play at 1080p, I think it might be overkill? Maybe a 980 would be fine? Or do I wait a few months for the next gen and the (inevitable?) price drop or latest new shiny thing?

The GTX 970 would be the better bet for good price to performance. You probably won't need to upgrade your power supply at all, but what model of power supply do you have, and how old is it?
 
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