Thanks for the details and the recommendation! I think I will go with the Gigabyte-Z170XP-SLI then.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Thanks for the details and the recommendation! I think I will go with the Gigabyte-Z170XP-SLI then.
BorntoPlay
Member
You should go with a z170 motherboard, so you could get base clock overcloking: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard - $89.99
.
Oh, that was two months ago. Hmm, I didn't know you were planning to go to Microcenter for everything. Prices might be higher in that case because you don't get the benefit of lowest possible pricing as PCPartPicker shows you.
For the CPU and motherboard, you don't have much choice. They're out of stock for the cheapest Z97 mITX sized models. Anyway, you still want the i5 4690K ($220), buying a compatible motherboard will get you $20 off the cost of your order as shown at that link. The cheapest compatible motherboard is the ASRock H97M-ITX ($80 after $20 rebate). It does have wifi and generally good reviews, so there's that at least. I wouldn't normally pair that processor with an H97 motherboard, but there's not much else to go with and despite being H97, it is capable of some overclocking. Keep in mind that if you do feel like overclocking, getting a better CPU cooler would be advisable.
You should get this Crucial 1x8GB stick of RAM ($38). Not much to say, it's cheap and has excellent reviews, 4.8~5 out of 5 stars at both Newegg and Amazon after over 1800 reviews total. As for the SSD and case, my recommendations haven't changed. The Crucial BX100 250GB is available for $85, and the Cooler Master Elite 130 is $35 after $10 rebate. Finally, I recommend the EVGA W1 500 watt power supply ($40 after $5 rebate or $35 for the open box return). It's basic but not too bad, and it'll get the job done at a cheap price. It'll be more than enough to handle an i5 processor and your GTX 750 Ti.
You're looking at a total of ~$540 after taxes, but you stand to get back $35 back in rebates. If the open box return EVGA power supply doesn't look bad (and still has warranty coverage), then that's another $10 off your parts list.
Oh in that case, he should also add the 212 Evo CPU cooler back to the parts list, overclocking will be much better with that CPU heatsink.
Absoludacrous
Member
Let's say I wanted to go crazy and get a 980 or 980ti instead. Would any other component need to be changed?
Nothing, it's all compatible.
Theonik
Member
Kinda want a 980Ti, but I'm not sure when/what Pascal will bring to the table. I am not so much interested in game performance though that's a plus, but am after compute performance . Big Maxwell was good for that so if nVidia delivers on pascal and don't pull another 'Start by selling the x60/70 as the x80' thing it should be good.
Do we have any reliable rumours/news that would point in either direction?
Do we have any reliable rumours/news that would point in either direction?
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Sorry to do a bit of a cut and paste job, but the G-Sync thread doesn't seem to get much love and I've been having what could be a serious issue with my G-Sync display. I'm curious if anyone here has experienced something similar.
So I've got an ROG Swift that's about a year old. I bought it used and haven't had problems until relatively recently.
I power the monitor off rather than wait for it to go to sleep by itself. Sometimes, randomly and out of nowhere I'll hear the Windows 10 beeping sound as if a USB device has been plugged in or unplugged. In the morning, I'll power the monitor on and nothing will come up on the screen even after touching the mouse and keyboard. Keep in mind, I never shut down my PC. It never sleeps or hibernates or powers down because I use it as a PLEX server.
Sometimes, it does something weirder still. I'll power the monitor on and this is what I see.
Picture's worth a thousand words here. I couldn't explain it any other way. Basically, the display anomalies only factor into the what's displayed from my PC. Not the menu overlay. If I unplug the monitor and plug it back in (at the power source) everything comes back just fine.
So I guess I'm worried that something might be going bad. I've tried multiple (new) display port cables. Doesn't make a difference. What do you guys think?
So I've got an ROG Swift that's about a year old. I bought it used and haven't had problems until relatively recently.
I power the monitor off rather than wait for it to go to sleep by itself. Sometimes, randomly and out of nowhere I'll hear the Windows 10 beeping sound as if a USB device has been plugged in or unplugged. In the morning, I'll power the monitor on and nothing will come up on the screen even after touching the mouse and keyboard. Keep in mind, I never shut down my PC. It never sleeps or hibernates or powers down because I use it as a PLEX server.
Sometimes, it does something weirder still. I'll power the monitor on and this is what I see.
Picture's worth a thousand words here. I couldn't explain it any other way. Basically, the display anomalies only factor into the what's displayed from my PC. Not the menu overlay. If I unplug the monitor and plug it back in (at the power source) everything comes back just fine.
So I guess I'm worried that something might be going bad. I've tried multiple (new) display port cables. Doesn't make a difference. What do you guys think?
I'm thinking I messed up while overclocking my card. I've overclocked my CPU just fine to 4.4 GHz but I wanted to try using MSI afterburner for my Galaxy HOF+ 780 TI. It couldn't run 3DMark without the whole computer freezing up so I looked into changed the power settings and I wasn't able to with Afterburner. So I tried with Galaxy's own Xtreme Tuner Pro. Still freezing. Deciding that it was fine as is and that I would just take avantage of the Turbo button on the back (that I had actually forgotten about), I reset all the settings in Xtreme Tuner (I had already done this one Afterburner before trying out Xtreme Tuner).
I thought everything was fine but both Xtreme Tuner and Afterburner read my card's core clock as 548 MHz -- about half of what it should be (1020 or 1070 MHz). GPU Z reads 1020 MHz (its sensor reads 548).
What did I do wrong and how do I get everything back? While in a game Afterburner's OSD reads 549 MHz the entire time. The clock doesn't increase. GPU Z's Perfcap Reason reads as "Util" or Limited by GPU Utilization.
I have no idea what is going on. Before I did this both Xtreme Tuner and Afterburner both read Core Clock as 1000+.
EDIT: NEVERMIND. False alarm. I forgot that my Display Driver crashed and restarted along with Steam Big Picture and Dragon's Dogma and restarting my PC fixed it. Still performed a clean install of Nvidia drivers just to be on the safe side. I'll be back if it rears its ugly head again.
I thought everything was fine but both Xtreme Tuner and Afterburner read my card's core clock as 548 MHz -- about half of what it should be (1020 or 1070 MHz). GPU Z reads 1020 MHz (its sensor reads 548).
What did I do wrong and how do I get everything back? While in a game Afterburner's OSD reads 549 MHz the entire time. The clock doesn't increase. GPU Z's Perfcap Reason reads as "Util" or Limited by GPU Utilization.
I have no idea what is going on. Before I did this both Xtreme Tuner and Afterburner both read Core Clock as 1000+.
EDIT: NEVERMIND. False alarm. I forgot that my Display Driver crashed and restarted along with Steam Big Picture and Dragon's Dogma and restarting my PC fixed it. Still performed a clean install of Nvidia drivers just to be on the safe side. I'll be back if it rears its ugly head again.
It all depends on how close we are to something new and how long you can wait. New CPUs like Kaby Lake and Broadwell-E are at least six months off while AMD's Zen (which still has a lot of question marks) will take a year more or less.
For GPUs it might range from two/three months up to Q3 2016. AMD's Polaris might launch first out of all the next gen cards, but that'll be a low end chip. Supposedly the mid-high end cards should launch during the back to school period. Pascal still doesn't have a concrete launch period, but it'll most likely be similar to AMD's.
thx got some things to think about.
Osiris
I permanently banned my 6 year old daughter from using the PS4 for mistakenly sending grief reports as it's too hard to watch or talk to her
That feeling when nearly all of your parts arrive unexpectedly on a Saturday, except the case and PSU.., which probably won't arive until Monday. :/
I was happy waiting until Monday for it all when I thought that was the schedule, now though, it's torture!
I was happy waiting until Monday for it all when I thought that was the schedule, now though, it's torture!
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Thank you for doing so much researchOh, that was two months ago. Hmm, I didn't know you were planning to go to Microcenter for everything. Prices might be higher in that case because you don't get the benefit of lowest possible pricing as PCPartPicker shows you.
For the CPU and motherboard, you don't have much choice. They're out of stock for the cheapest Z97 mITX sized models. Anyway, you still want the i5 4690K ($220), buying a compatible motherboard will get you $20 off the cost of your order as shown at that link. The cheapest compatible motherboard is the ASRock H97M-ITX ($80 after $20 rebate). It does have wifi and generally good reviews, so there's that at least. I wouldn't normally pair that processor with an H97 motherboard, but there's not much else to go with and despite being H97, it is capable of some overclocking. Keep in mind that if you do feel like overclocking, getting a better CPU cooler would be advisable.
You should get this Crucial 1x8GB stick of RAM ($38). Not much to say, it's cheap and has excellent reviews, 4.8~5 out of 5 stars at both Newegg and Amazon after over 1800 reviews total. As for the SSD and case, my recommendations haven't changed. The Crucial BX100 250GB is available for $85, and the Cooler Master Elite 130 is $35 after $10 rebate. Finally, I recommend the EVGA W1 500 watt power supply ($40 after $5 rebate or $35 for the open box return). It's basic but not too bad, and it'll get the job done at a cheap price. It'll be more than enough to handle an i5 processor and your GTX 750 Ti.
You're looking at a total of ~$540 after taxes, but you stand to get back $35 back in rebates. If the open box return EVGA power supply doesn't look bad (and still has warranty coverage), then that's another $10 off your parts list.
. If I ended up going through PC part picker, would you still recommend the same components as you originally did? I know 2 months can be a long time when talking about parts.Edit: I'm actually having trouble finding the Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 motherboard you recommended anywhere unfortunately. What do you think of this one? It's an ASRock Z97 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-157-504.
Edit 2: Nevermind! I ended up ordering it. Half the stuff I ordered from Newegg and the other half from Micro Center.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/HNRMLk
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($121.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($35.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.01)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $542.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-16 12:39 EST-0500
SSD is from Micro Center. PCPartPicker couldn't find it there for some reason.
thecosmicfly
Banned
Hello there PCGAF. First I wanna apologise in advance if I miss out crucial details or ask/phrase anything stupidly. Ive never been the best when it comes to computer hardware and I get super paranoid about making any big changes in general, so I can understand if anyone gets frustrated with my layman ass questions.
Around 4-5 years ago I asked a friend to help me out with building my first custom PC using Overclockers UK, and Ive been more or less satisfied for a few years now. Only ever needed it to play mostly older games and a few new ones at moderate settings, online streaming etc. and havent really needed to dabble in new hardware since, but Im now starting to feel the limitations of my current amount of RAM and dealing with a 32-bit OS. Ive decided to stop being lazy and am getting round to finally upgrading my PC to 64-bit. The easiest way I figure to doing that would be to download the Windows 10 offer. As I said Im not a wiz when it comes to hardware/OS changes but I feel confident enough using some online guides to get all of this done, and upgrading the RAM to something like 8GB should be the simplest thing to do. So, whats the big issue then? Whats stopping me from doing this? A few things really.
When I purchased the PC my friend also recommended/ordered it to be overclocked as well, and thats a whole can of worms that I have zero clues about, so I dont know where to begin. I have so many questions and fears running through my head, such as; Where do I go on my PC/BIOS to find out how or what is overclocked?
Would I need to revert the overclock settings back before upgrading to Win10?
Would changing the RAM conflict with the overclock settings and break my PC?
On the other hand, Ive been debating if maybe it would be easier and simpler to just skip all of this and start a new PC build from scratch. Like I said other than the RAM and the 32-bit OS Ive been happy with what I have, but I wouldnt want to go through the effort of making those upgrades only to find that I'm wasting my computers potential, finding out a few months later that now my CPU or video card were significantly lagging behind in power and efficiency as well. Id welcome any opinions on what the best course of action to take would be.
Herere the current computer deets:
Motherboard:
Manufacturer ASUSTeK Computer INC.
Model M5A78L-M LX V2
CPU - AMD FX(tm)-4100 Quad-Core Processor
CPU Speed - 3.60 GHz
RAM - 4.00 GB (3.25 useable)
Graphics - AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series
Gaming graphics - 2431 MB Total (1024 MB dedicated graphics memory)
HDD - 519GB Free (931GB Total)
PSU 750W
Fake edit: found the email invoice from 2012, hopefully this helps as well. Feel free to point and laugh if necessary.
Goods Ordered (prices in GBP)
£214.97 x 1 - "Primo Custom" AMD 760G DDR3 Ready Barbones (Socket AM3+)
£116.66 x 1 - XFX HD 6870 1024MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
£54.16 x 1 - Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 1TB SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache - OEM (ST1000DM003)
£56.65 x 1 - OCZ ZS Series 750W '80 Plus Bronze' Power Supply
£24.99 x 1 - Xigmatek Asgard II Midi Tower Case - Black/Orange
Sub-Total: 385.79
Shipping: 0
VAT: 77.16
Total: 462.95
Thanks in advance.
Around 4-5 years ago I asked a friend to help me out with building my first custom PC using Overclockers UK, and Ive been more or less satisfied for a few years now. Only ever needed it to play mostly older games and a few new ones at moderate settings, online streaming etc. and havent really needed to dabble in new hardware since, but Im now starting to feel the limitations of my current amount of RAM and dealing with a 32-bit OS. Ive decided to stop being lazy and am getting round to finally upgrading my PC to 64-bit. The easiest way I figure to doing that would be to download the Windows 10 offer. As I said Im not a wiz when it comes to hardware/OS changes but I feel confident enough using some online guides to get all of this done, and upgrading the RAM to something like 8GB should be the simplest thing to do. So, whats the big issue then? Whats stopping me from doing this? A few things really.
When I purchased the PC my friend also recommended/ordered it to be overclocked as well, and thats a whole can of worms that I have zero clues about, so I dont know where to begin. I have so many questions and fears running through my head, such as; Where do I go on my PC/BIOS to find out how or what is overclocked?
Would I need to revert the overclock settings back before upgrading to Win10?
Would changing the RAM conflict with the overclock settings and break my PC?
On the other hand, Ive been debating if maybe it would be easier and simpler to just skip all of this and start a new PC build from scratch. Like I said other than the RAM and the 32-bit OS Ive been happy with what I have, but I wouldnt want to go through the effort of making those upgrades only to find that I'm wasting my computers potential, finding out a few months later that now my CPU or video card were significantly lagging behind in power and efficiency as well. Id welcome any opinions on what the best course of action to take would be.
Herere the current computer deets:
Motherboard:
Manufacturer ASUSTeK Computer INC.
Model M5A78L-M LX V2
CPU - AMD FX(tm)-4100 Quad-Core Processor
CPU Speed - 3.60 GHz
RAM - 4.00 GB (3.25 useable)
Graphics - AMD Radeon HD 6800 Series
Gaming graphics - 2431 MB Total (1024 MB dedicated graphics memory)
HDD - 519GB Free (931GB Total)
PSU 750W
Fake edit: found the email invoice from 2012, hopefully this helps as well. Feel free to point and laugh if necessary.
Goods Ordered (prices in GBP)
£214.97 x 1 - "Primo Custom" AMD 760G DDR3 Ready Barbones (Socket AM3+)
£116.66 x 1 - XFX HD 6870 1024MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
£54.16 x 1 - Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 1TB SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache - OEM (ST1000DM003)
£56.65 x 1 - OCZ ZS Series 750W '80 Plus Bronze' Power Supply
£24.99 x 1 - Xigmatek Asgard II Midi Tower Case - Black/Orange
Sub-Total: 385.79
Shipping: 0
VAT: 77.16
Total: 462.95
Thanks in advance.
Well, I finally got everything hooked up as far as my water cooler and new fans. Pretty impressed with the results now.
Rig:
i7-5820k @ 4.4ghz
MSI X99S Sli Plus
16gb 2400mhz RAM
MSI GTX 980
H100i GTX AIO
Corsair Carbide 500r
Notcua 120 mm NF-F12 x2 on radiator pushing out
Cougar Vortex PWM 120mm on exhaust
Corsair Air Series SP120 x2 on intake front
Temps before on Phanteks Air Cooler:
Idle: 35-43 C
Load: 75 C
Corsair AIO:
Idle: 27 C
Load: 54 C
This is nuts! Only thing I may change is the intake fans. The specs are really nice....but holy shit are these things loud!
Rig:
i7-5820k @ 4.4ghz
MSI X99S Sli Plus
16gb 2400mhz RAM
MSI GTX 980
H100i GTX AIO
Corsair Carbide 500r
Notcua 120 mm NF-F12 x2 on radiator pushing out
Cougar Vortex PWM 120mm on exhaust
Corsair Air Series SP120 x2 on intake front
Temps before on Phanteks Air Cooler:
Idle: 35-43 C
Load: 75 C
Corsair AIO:
Idle: 27 C
Load: 54 C
This is nuts! Only thing I may change is the intake fans. The specs are really nice....but holy shit are these things loud!
I finally caved and ordered:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($264.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $498
(plus a new Windows 10 license)
Really want to stream, and my old CPU just isn't cutting it. I'm going to wait for Pascal/Polaris to come out before upgrading my GPU if I can be patient enough. I'm still rocking my HD 6850. I'm hoping the new hardware bumps up my Witcher 3 FPS by like 5 for Blood and Wine when everything is on low, because it will probably come out before Polaris and that's about all I need to be content (for now).
But trying to resist the urge to spring for a new GPU is hard.
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($264.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $498
(plus a new Windows 10 license)
Really want to stream, and my old CPU just isn't cutting it. I'm going to wait for Pascal/Polaris to come out before upgrading my GPU if I can be patient enough. I'm still rocking my HD 6850. I'm hoping the new hardware bumps up my Witcher 3 FPS by like 5 for Blood and Wine when everything is on low, because it will probably come out before Polaris and that's about all I need to be content (for now).
But trying to resist the urge to spring for a new GPU is hard.
Dick Justice
Banned
After half an hour of paranoia and tension, I finally managed to upgrade my GPU (770 to 970) for the first time (a lot of that time was spent fiddling with the black clip holding the old GPU in place, and slotting the connectors into the 970 due to my cable setup).
Couple of things:
1) Alt-tabbing seems to be a bit slower than before (tested in GTA V). Is this a known thing with the 900 series? I was also getting slow alt-tabbing when the game was in windowed mode, but doing a full driver reinstall fixed that.
2) Got a grey screen when overclocking via Afterburner. I'm guessing this is due to an unstable overclock, but I remember that when that happened on my 770, it'd crash back to desktop and inform me of a kernel crash, instead of forcing me to switch the PC off via the power button.
3) Buzzing noise is still there when I play a game. Not sure if it goes away after a while like with my 770. I'm guessing now then that the noise is almost certainly coming from the PSU instead.
Couple of things:
1) Alt-tabbing seems to be a bit slower than before (tested in GTA V). Is this a known thing with the 900 series? I was also getting slow alt-tabbing when the game was in windowed mode, but doing a full driver reinstall fixed that.
2) Got a grey screen when overclocking via Afterburner. I'm guessing this is due to an unstable overclock, but I remember that when that happened on my 770, it'd crash back to desktop and inform me of a kernel crash, instead of forcing me to switch the PC off via the power button.
3) Buzzing noise is still there when I play a game. Not sure if it goes away after a while like with my 770. I'm guessing now then that the noise is almost certainly coming from the PSU instead.
Pretty much my experience from switching from an Evo 212 to an AIO. (Also have the h100i gtx). On the rad, I have 4 SP120 Quiet, 2 of them being PWM. Works great and is pretty quiet.
longdi
Banned
That is my experience with water cooling too.
I used to have really good dual tower heatsink (silver arrow) but i found even a thick 140mm AIO gives comparable performance (with louder fan noise of course). 2x120mm swiftech clearly beat the silver arrow for me (lower noise even) and helps to achieve higher overclocking.
I think with large dual tower heatsink, you really need a clear, short travel path for the cool air to enter and exhaust quickly. Otherwise a 2x120mm AIO will beat even the best Noctuas and the likes.
I used to have really good dual tower heatsink (silver arrow) but i found even a thick 140mm AIO gives comparable performance (with louder fan noise of course). 2x120mm swiftech clearly beat the silver arrow for me (lower noise even) and helps to achieve higher overclocking.
I think with large dual tower heatsink, you really need a clear, short travel path for the cool air to enter and exhaust quickly. Otherwise a 2x120mm AIO will beat even the best Noctuas and the likes.
opticalmace
Member
Overclock the cpu. Gpu score looks fine.I kinda expected a way higher score of my friends rig, is that a normal score with a i5 3570k and 980ti?
This is his rig, any recommendations what to do?
Dave_6
Member
I give up on trying to OC my G1 970. I'm new to OC a GPU but watched a couple of good videos and reading up on a few articles but mine (or me) just won't take it. Spent 3 hours last night barely bumping up the core using Valley as the benchmark, then doing the same with the memory only for it to crash this morning 30 secs into one lap of Assetto Corsa. The core and memory were only bumped up 150 each using Afterburner then letting Valley loop for nearly 20 mins. Maybe my card just doesn't like it...
ISee
Member
Just +150 to the core? +150 to the core is a lot!
No wonder it's not stable.
Aim a lot lower and do not listen to the crowd telling you how easy it is to oc the gigabyte g1 to insane levels like 1550mhz on the core. Most of it is extremely exaggerated, or they were just able to record one lucky stable benchmark run.
1. ) Try to find a stable core clock speed first (no memory increase, no increased power limit, no extra voltage, no artifacts, no crashes, no driver resets). Check your TDP if it is near 99%-100% you most probably need to increase your power limit to be able to hold the clock speed under heavy, steady load. But watch out increasing your power limit will most probably prevent your GPU from downclocking at 80°C to protect itself and temperatures may go above 80°C (not recommended at all! Temperatures over 80°C can and will harm your card.) To give you a number +70 to core clock without having to increase voltage is already good.
2.) If you want to go for an even higher clock speed, you'll have to increase your voltage. When it comes to voltage, the lower the better. And watch out as temperatures will rise when you start to increase voltage levels.
3.) Increase your memory clock. Watch out for artifacts and instability and keep in mind there is no way to check memory temperatures so do not aim for the absolute maximum. Artifacts are a good indication for overheating memory, but often enough you do not even notice any kind of problems till they're dead. +500mhz seems to be doable with Samsung ddr5 memory but again, people tend to report way too high numbers. (for whatever reason)
4.) Do not test with just one benchmark for stability/artifacts. Use 3D Mark, an unigine benchmark and a demanding game. The more testing, the better and do not be disappointed if your oc is stable in one game/benchmark and unstable in an other. That's the way it is.
Sorta. It's not awful, but it can be a bottleneck in some places. If that's what you already have then try overclocking to get more out of it. If you're thinking of buying one, I don't recommend it.
Thank you for doing so much research
Edit: I'm actually having trouble finding the Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 motherboard you recommended anywhere unfortunately. What do you think of this one? It's an ASRock Z97 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-157-504.
Edit 2: Nevermind! I ended up ordering it. Half the stuff I ordered from Newegg and the other half from Micro Center.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/HNRMLk
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($121.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($35.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.01)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($45.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $542.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-16 12:39 EST-0500
SSD is from Micro Center. PCPartPicker couldn't find it there for some reason.
Looks good to me. The Gigabyte motherboard shouldn't be that big of a deal, I recommended it because it was well-priced at the time two months ago. Reviews of the ASRock model are fine and I have recommended that exact model in the past to others.
See this guide for overclocking. No, you don't need to revert overclocking settings before upgrading to Windows 10. Overclocking is done via the BIOS menu and should be separate from Windows or any software running inside Windows. I'm not familiar with AMD overclocking so I can't say for sure, but I don't expect adding more RAM will change or conflict with overclocking settings.
If you were to build a new PC, how much would you want to spend? Reusing parts from your current PC would cut down on the cost of a wholly new PC, so at the very minimum you would probably want a new processor, motherboard, (more) RAM and perhaps a new graphics card.
1. No idea why. I would assume a different graphics card using the same drivers wouldn't change that. Are you sure you weren't in borderless fullscreen mode before?
2. What does this grey screen look like? Take a photo?
3. Perhaps it's coil whine? If you're not sure what that is, there are examples on youtube.
Dave_6
Member
Thanks, me being a noob at this is really showing huh? Lol. Is it better just start at +10 on the core and go up 10 each time or just back it down to +100 and start there? I've got the power limit at max (112) but I've yet to bump the voltage at all. I have 3DMark on Steam but I'll need to reinstall it.
ISee
Member
On a card that is considered to be good for overclocking (like the gigabyte g1) I like to take a good first step like +50mhz and then work my way up or down in reasonable steps (to save some time).
'Power Limit' is more or less a combination of wattage control and max. temperature control (if you do not separate them). So by increasing your power limit you allow your card to reach a higher temperature and to draw more juice/power before it has to throttle down. But I highly doubt that you have to increase it in the first place, so just setting it preemptively to 112% is a bit overkill. Just check your TDP (power consumption) with something like GPU-Z while benchmarking, if you're below 95% you're fine and increasing Power Limit isn't even necessary.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Cool
. I was half worried you'd come in and say "Not THAT one!" I'm really looking forward to putting it together.
Hawk269
Member
Listen to what was posted above. GPU overclocking does require Voltage increases if you want to really push the card. You can still get some decent increases without adding voltage, but the best OC is when you add voltage. Just monitor the temps and like the person above mentioned use various programs to test stability. Using Valley for 20min is really not enough time to really test.
Ultimately, it is the temps as you add voltage is what you are wanting to monitor as you run through various tests. Start by only adding to the Core, don't mess with memory until you find a stable Core OC at temps that are what you are comfortable with. Once you find a stable Core clock, then you work on memory.
Since it's used, can you return it or get it RMA'd?Sorry to do a bit of a cut and paste job, but the G-Sync thread doesn't seem to get much love and I've been having what could be a serious issue with my G-Sync display. I'm curious if anyone here has experienced something similar.
So I've got an ROG Swift that's about a year old. I bought it used and haven't had problems until relatively recently.
I power the monitor off rather than wait for it to go to sleep by itself. Sometimes, randomly and out of nowhere I'll hear the Windows 10 beeping sound as if a USB device has been plugged in or unplugged. In the morning, I'll power the monitor on and nothing will come up on the screen even after touching the mouse and keyboard. Keep in mind, I never shut down my PC. It never sleeps or hibernates or powers down because I use it as a PLEX server.
Sometimes, it does something weirder still. I'll power the monitor on and this is what I see.
Picture's worth a thousand words here. I couldn't explain it any other way. Basically, the display anomalies only factor into the what's displayed from my PC. Not the menu overlay. If I unplug the monitor and plug it back in (at the power source) everything comes back just fine.
So I guess I'm worried that something might be going bad. I've tried multiple (new) display port cables. Doesn't make a difference. What do you guys think?
This is what I'm looking at:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB SC Gaming w/ACX 2.0+
Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
Is this alright? I'm not to sure about the motherboard, so I'm open other suggestions.
I also want to reuse some stuff from my old PC. Will these be okay?
Power Supply: Corsair TX Series CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.3
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB SC Gaming w/ACX 2.0+
Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540
Is this alright? I'm not to sure about the motherboard, so I'm open other suggestions.
I also want to reuse some stuff from my old PC. Will these be okay?
Power Supply: Corsair TX Series CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.3
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
TheSpoiler
Member
So I'm in the market for a new CPU. The time has come to finally upgrade and get something far more serviceable.
Here are my current specs.
AMDFX-4300
650PSU
8GB
r9 290
My motherboard is a AMD 760G - GA-78LMT-USB3 Version 5.0. So I can only get stuff from here, I guess:
I'm not looking for something super heavy, but the FX4300 is barely hanging in there. What can I pick while keeping in the allotted wattage? Are CPUs easy to install?
Here are my current specs.
AMDFX-4300
650PSU
8GB
r9 290
My motherboard is a AMD 760G - GA-78LMT-USB3 Version 5.0. So I can only get stuff from here, I guess:
I'm not looking for something super heavy, but the FX4300 is barely hanging in there. What can I pick while keeping in the allotted wattage? Are CPUs easy to install?
3) Coil whine, use a global fps cap with something like MSI Afterburner/RTSS.
ISee
Member
I think you can't use your old ddr3 ram. You'll need new ddr4. The rest looks fine to me.
MAX PAYMENT
Member
Upgraded to a 980ti. What should I do with my 670? Dedicated for physx or directx 12 shit?
opticalmace
Member
Just sell it or put it in another rig if you are in need of one.
Sell it, it'll probably be slower for physx than the 980Ti.
thecosmicfly
Banned
Thanks, that's a big relief to hear. It's good to know that I don't have to do anything more complicated for the moment. Now I can begin to decide whether I want to upgrade to 8GB or 16GB, which actually leads into another query I had...
At the very least I want no less than 8GB, so I'm more than happy to go to 16GB or even higher. But that loops back to earlier where I said that I would only want to go beyond 8GB if it meant it wouldn't be a waste having all that extra RAM and never having any use for it (much like buying a 4-bedroom house whilst living alone). It's just a beyond my knowledge of what components are best to leave in and what needs replacing to get a prominent boost without rebuilding the whole PC at a high cost, and that's where I would need more help and reccommendations. If I could put a rough cap on what I'm willing to spend it would be at most £400, around what I spent the first time. That could mean replacing everything from the processor, motherboard, memory, graphics card and psu for £400 total or buying only the RAM and graphics card for £400, whichevers best for me in the long run. Just need some guidance on what to buy.
tl;dr it's a choice between only buying something like this or beefing most everything up along with the RAM for under £400.
Dick Justice
Banned
1. Solved the issue, the game's refresh rate was apparently set to 59hz, despite showing 60hz in the menu. Changed it in the ini file, and now alt-tabbing is fine.
2. Just a grey screen. That's it. But it hasn't happened again since reinstalling the drivers, so perhaps that was the cause of it.
3. I know it's coil whine, I was unsure about the source of it. Now that I've upgraded my GPU and am still getting it, it means my PSU is most likely the cause (Corsair TX650 V2).
Happens at 60fps. Very audible when I first play a game after booting up the PC, then goes away after a while.
Is there any consensus on which 980 ti is the "best" and the one worth getting?
I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting 2, to sli for as much 4k gaming as I can, but am still unsure. I think I'm leaning towards MSI's 980 ti 6g, as it seems to benchmark well, but am wish it was $50 cheaper.
I'm ready to pull the trigger on getting 2, to sli for as much 4k gaming as I can, but am still unsure. I think I'm leaning towards MSI's 980 ti 6g, as it seems to benchmark well, but am wish it was $50 cheaper.
This really depends on what you do. But just for games 8gb ought to be enough for quite a while to come. Also, presumably you should be able to continue using your IIRC 4gb you have already. So that would total you 12 GB Ram, which - outside some very specialized things - will be enough for almost anything right now.
Ya I should have checked. I have to get ddr4. Thanks.
I somehow missed this post, but congrats man! Years in the making and you finally made it happen. That's awesome. I'd love to take that same leap with you one day
I somehow missed this post, but congrats man! Years in the making and you finally made it happen. That's awesome. I'd love to take that same leap with you one day
It's too loud. I'm considering selling the whole thing and going Skylake.
manfestival
Member
So far I am loving my new computer that I built. Eventually jumped on a good deal for the 970 and my build is complete. Well especially now that I picked up a second monitor however I still dont know if I should go with IPS over TN.... is there any reason to ever actually go TN over IPS if you are willing to spend the extra money?
What sort of misgivings do you have about the motherboard? Are you looking for a specific feature or want something higher end?
The Corsair PSU will do just fine. It was a great power supply when it came out. As ISee said, your old DDR3 RAM will not do for Skylake.
What sort of games do you play and have you tried overclocking the FX-4300? I'd advise against buying another AMD FX processor now, it'd be better to either switch to Intel or wait for AMD's Zen processors. Either way, the old AM3+ platform is just not very capable these days.
Depends on the pricing. If you don't mind overclocking, any one can do very well. In this Techreport roundup review of a few different GTX 980 Ti models, the Asus Strix OC stood out at the top of the pack. You could get the Asus non-overclocked version for $630 after $20 rebate and overclock it yourself.
That said, I'd imagine any GTX 980 Ti overclocked to the same level would have the same if not extremely similar level of performance. Assuming they can overclock that high, the main difference between the graphics cards would then be size, aesthetics, noise, warranty support, etc.
HundredEyeMonk
Member
I got mine in on Thursday.
Have had 0 problems so far. BIOS is intuitive and very easy to use.
You can use the "Increase Performance 20%, 40%, etc etc" to easily overclock.
I am running my i5-6600k at 4.4Ghz stable (won't even boot at 4.5, so found my limit
). It tooks about 20 seconds to setup.lowhighkang_LHK
Member
Is this a good mechanical wireless keyboard:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UZZUFOQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If you think there is a better sounding/feeling wireless mechanical keyboard for roughly the same price, please recommend. I also don't want something too gaming focused, you know - with neon pink lights and dragon fire breath coming out of it's ass every time I hit a keystroke. Something sensible for both gaming and professional use.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UZZUFOQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
If you think there is a better sounding/feeling wireless mechanical keyboard for roughly the same price, please recommend. I also don't want something too gaming focused, you know - with neon pink lights and dragon fire breath coming out of it's ass every time I hit a keystroke. Something sensible for both gaming and professional use.
TheSpoiler
Member
That's a territory I'd not like to venture in. As for games, the games I want to play aren't incredibly intensive, and I'm really just using this until a decent Steam machine drops. I play stuff like SFV, Dragon's Dogma, and just a wide variety of games. I'm not looking to start pumping out the realistic graphics, but my CPU has been the bane of my existence since forever.
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