Dusk Prophet
Member
Cheers man, you've been a massive help
Hopefully I don't blow up when I get round to putting it together
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Cheers man, you've been a massive help
Hopefully I don't blow up when I get round to putting it together
Nix my previous post , I have sound corruption in 3dMark as well. Ill get the cpu voltage out of the bios, one sec.
JoeyJungle
Banned
What mobo do you have? My PC was randomly having trouble booting past BIOS until the most recent bios update (F6, haven't tried the new beta BIOS). I have the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7.
edit: Whoops, missed your specs. Yeah, getting past post is almost definitely a BIOS issue. I was having it at stock settings, and it would just occur randomly.
Never had any of your other problems, though. Also, make sure that you change the FCLK in the BIOS. The default is 800 (Intel's recommendation for mobile mobo's, which was accidentally applied to desktop mobos as well). It should be 1000mhz for desktops. It's in the frequency settings, and the setting to change it was added in the latest BIOS (F6).
Here are the voltages being reported int he bios. I am running auto on everything right now.
Yup same MB. I am on the newest bios now. I had been on f6 the last two days. Everything seems to be working now, not freezing on boot at least, but I am getting major sound glitches when I play games.
Here are the voltages being reported int he bios. I am running auto on everything right now.
Yup same MB. I am on the newest bios now. I had been on f6 the last two days. Everything seems to be working now, not freezing on boot at least, but I am getting major sound glitches when I play games.
I've been having issues booting properly with my i7 6700K, by default the CPU voltage was at 1.3V and it would always freeze at the Windows logo just as it started to load. Changing it to 1.15V got me to the desktop, but it still wasn't totally stable. Not sure if we have the same issues, so I thought I'd just mention it in case you want to try.
JoeyJungle
Banned
Here are the voltages being reported int he bios. I am running auto on everything right now.
Yup same MB. I am on the newest bios now. I had been on f6 the last two days. Everything seems to be working now, not freezing on boot at least, but I am getting major sound glitches when I play games.
Are you having sound issues when watching videos? Or is it just when playing games?
Edit: Maybe try turning integrated audio back on? What was your reason for turning it off?
Wow you went down in voltage thats interesting. What is the normal voltage range on the cpu I cant seem to find it online.
I have a soundblaster Zx card so I dont have the integrated audio on. I am not even using that right now though, I am just using HDMI out on my GTX 670.
Thanks. Booted up and rolling smoothly! Well, after I re-seated the RAM, anyhow.
Check for Bios update. Crucial use to have problems with their SSD causing random problems. Look and see if there is a firmware update. Are you using XMP ram profile or manually selecting the settings? If the first, try the later.
On the latest bios, Crucial is as well (Checked that when i had crashing). I am using the auto setting right now that is for 2133 , xmp would be 3200 so I wasnt using that at the moment.
Depends on how fast the CPU is running. There's various power saving technologies that will lower CPU speed and voltage to save power and reduce heat, it ranges from 1.0~1.3V as far as I can tell.
I think there may even be something wrong with my processor, I've been tearing my hair out trying to troubleshoot my PC. I'm thinking of asking for an RMA on the processor.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Just found an open box EVGA 980ti Classified for 630 at Microcenter. Good steal?
Try manually entering your ram settings. Also, what does your CPU temps and VCore show in HWinfo, sensor mode?
So really weird
I've been fiddling with my fan setup to try and decrease temperatures, but all I seem to have done is INCREASE them somehow.
I've got:
1 x 140mm exhaust at the back
2 x 140mm excaust on the top
3 x 120mm slots on the front
The top one is the radiator for my h80i
The next two are 120mm intakes
When playing GTA V, my CPU temp is going into the low 60s, where before it wasn't reaching 59 even.
I've not ordered the h110i gtx that I'm going to get yet because I was hoping I'd have a good enough solution with the cooling I've got. Does anybody have any alternative suggestions?
I've been fiddling with my fan setup to try and decrease temperatures, but all I seem to have done is INCREASE them somehow.
I've got:
1 x 140mm exhaust at the back
2 x 140mm excaust on the top
3 x 120mm slots on the front
The top one is the radiator for my h80i
The next two are 120mm intakes
When playing GTA V, my CPU temp is going into the low 60s, where before it wasn't reaching 59 even.
I've not ordered the h110i gtx that I'm going to get yet because I was hoping I'd have a good enough solution with the cooling I've got. Does anybody have any alternative suggestions?
opticalmace
Member
Not really what you asked but why do you want to lower it anyway? 60C is nothing.
Is your video card blower or custom type? If custom, it's blowing hot air inside around your case. In that case, you would want the radiator fan to be setup so it pushes fresh cool outside air through the radiator. If you have it where it's sucking air out, your CPU temps will be much higher.
Regular prices are $680 with occasional drops to $650. If you don't mind the fact that it's open box and if it has good warranty coverage on it, it's not bad.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
I just wasn't sure if I wanted to grab that or the g1. The g1 was priced at 690 with tax.
I'd grab the Classified, but mainly because I'm cheap and I don't think the extra $60 for the Gigabyte G1 makes that much of a difference. I assume the G1 is brand new?
I've got a 4690k, I thought Haswell didn't love heat the way other recent Intels do?
What temp should I be worrying at?
It's custom, but I've got the radiator sucking air into the case from the front
opticalmace
Member
Worry at ~85C.
They'll run at up to around 90 degrees before they start throttling down to try and manage heat, I think. Your Corsair H80i is more than enough to deal with the i5 4690K's heat.
Hands of Stone
Member
qa_engineer
Member
Your wiring gives me anxiety.
At that price I would pay an extra 50 and get a new one. You're already paying 600+ what's another 50 dollars?
qa_engineer
Member
Double post
Tried different ram settings, no dice. Still have crackling in game. I dont seem to have any stability issues anymore though. It looks like this sound issue has happened to other people with Nvidia cards.
This is what was in hwinfo, the VID voltage was moving from 1.2X to 1.3X
Hands of Stone
Member
Hah, not my best work but the keep in mind this was mid dismantling, in both albums.
Maybe the most important pics of the CPU cooler allignment, does it seem too loosely fitted?
qa_engineer
Member
Hard to tell from the pics. Best thing to do is run your system and monitor for excessive heat or big fluctuations.
Tried different ram settings, no dice. Still have crackling in game. I dont seem to have any stability issues anymore though. It looks like this sound issue has happened to other people with Nvidia cards.
This is what was in hwinfo, the VID voltage was moving from 1.2X to 1.3X
Can you show HWinfo in Sensor Only mode? As for your sound issue, try reinstalling the Nvidia drivers using the Custom > Clean option.
QuantumSquid
Member
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Mk3x4D
So, this build good enough for 1080p 60fps on High settings in most current titles? Not looking to max out games with this, just looking for 60fps at 1920x1080 at Nvidia's "optimal settings" for the games I would play.
So, this build good enough for 1080p 60fps on High settings in most current titles? Not looking to max out games with this, just looking for 60fps at 1920x1080 at Nvidia's "optimal settings" for the games I would play.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
They didn't have a new one in stock. I had my sights set on the G1 though which was brand new. But the classy oc's well from what I heard so I went with that instead.
I mean I have 30 days with it and I won't feel as bad returning it since it was already open.
Depends on the games you'll play, but I'd imagine you'd only be able to reach 60FPS on medium settings on the very latest games. I'm not sure Nvidia's optimal settings for the GTX 960 would be high in most games?
Ally1987
Member
I have Asus X99-A and 5820K, and currently I'm at 4 ghz on air cooler with asus automatic oc. Want to oc to 4.5 ghz manualy, but I dont know how. I've tried some few times but it wasn't stable when stress testing. Can anyone tell me how and which setting in BIOS is should use?
edit: I tried with this in the bios
edit: I tried with this in the bios
QuantumSquid
Member
The games I'm looking to play are CS:GO, GTA V, Killing Floor 2, and Battlefield 4 in addition to such upcoming titles as Mirror's Edge Catalyst and Far Cry Primal. I fully expect to have to run FC
on Medium to get a solid 60 assuming its performance is comparable to FC4's, but with Mirror's Edge I think I can play with relatively high settings since it uses the same engine as BF4 and BF4 runs excellently on the 960.I've also been looking into the R9 380 and it seems like a pretty good option as well.
You need to increase CPU core voltage. Depending on your hardware, you want stay below 1.35V and 80C while stress testing. So, start by setting VCore to Manual > 1.35V and test. If passes, you can continue to lower the voltage, and thus, it will also lower temps. If it doesn't passed, you will need to try a lower speed. Once you find the perfect voltage for correct speed, use Offset instead of Manual. With Offset, VCore will lower will idling vs Manual stays at your setting 24/7.
The games I'm looking to play are CS:GO, GTA V, Killing Floor 2, and Battlefield 4 in addition to such upcoming titles as Mirror's Edge Catalyst and Far Cry Primal. I fully expect to have to run FC
I've also been looking into the R9 380 and it seems like a pretty good option as well.
For those games, the GTX 960 isn't bad at all. High-ish settings with maybe a few select options scaled back should net you a decently solid 60FPS.
Ally1987
Member
Okey, thanks. I'll try that.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Would it be possible to build a PC for around $350 that can handle Dolphin pretty well? I'm looking to make a retro emulation console and I'd like to play my PS2/GC games on it but if I have to spend $600 or something I'll just stick with a Raspberry Pi 2 and play 8/16 bit games.
You're missing the 4-pin end of the 20+4 motherboard cable here
You should also put the RAM in same coloured slots
Also, in this image with your old supply you have an 8-pin CPU cable running to the socket in the top left:
But I don't see an image in your after section showing it - did you plug that in as well?
NJDEN
Member
I want to overclock my CPU, but the last time I messed with such a thing was when I first got it. Does anyone have any good tutorials or resources before I get started?
i5-3570k
x61 Kraken Cooler
Z77x-UD3h
1300 Watt PSU
I'd like to keep this thing humming through at least Cannon Lake and hopefully a generation or two after that.
i5-3570k
x61 Kraken Cooler
Z77x-UD3h
1300 Watt PSU
I'd like to keep this thing humming through at least Cannon Lake and hopefully a generation or two after that.
Hey guys,
So, I have an interesting issue.
I've had the following build for about 7 months:
CPU: i5-4690k
MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX Gaming 5
GPU: Nvidia GTX 770
PSU: Corsair CX 750W
I've played Witcher 3 and dual-monitored it fine for a long time.
However, when I tried to play it recently, all of a sudden both screens lost output. When I plug both monitors into the integrated gpu, they work. So, I suspected that my gpu had died. However, I just borrowed a friend's old GTX 570 and that too does not show any output.
A bit of clarification on the output: I don't see anything straight from boot. No BIOS screen, or anything. I do see them when I use the integrated.
From doing some research, it may or may not be one of the PSU, Mobo (gulp,) or CPU (ugh double gulp)?
I haven't tested it out to see if the 570 or 770 works, but assuming that they're not dead, what do you guys think is the main reason?
So, I have an interesting issue.
I've had the following build for about 7 months:
CPU: i5-4690k
MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX Gaming 5
GPU: Nvidia GTX 770
PSU: Corsair CX 750W
I've played Witcher 3 and dual-monitored it fine for a long time.
However, when I tried to play it recently, all of a sudden both screens lost output. When I plug both monitors into the integrated gpu, they work. So, I suspected that my gpu had died. However, I just borrowed a friend's old GTX 570 and that too does not show any output.
A bit of clarification on the output: I don't see anything straight from boot. No BIOS screen, or anything. I do see them when I use the integrated.
From doing some research, it may or may not be one of the PSU, Mobo (gulp,) or CPU (ugh double gulp)?
I haven't tested it out to see if the 570 or 770 works, but assuming that they're not dead, what do you guys think is the main reason?
Silent_Ocarina
Member
All right, guys, I need some help. Here is my current build.
I'm looking to make an upgrade to an Intel CPU. How does this look?
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99-UD3P
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400
Case (gonna be using a friend's old case): NZXT H440
I plan to get a new graphics cards down the line, but much later. I think the CPU upgrade is substantial enough. I have some questions about this build, though:
1. How well do the new parts work with each other and with the old parts I will be carrying over? Is my cooler good enough?
2. How much of an upgrade over my old build is this one?
3. This isn't really concerning my new build, but it may affect whether or not I need a new PSU. A couple of days ago, my computer would start abnormally. Here's what happens:
- I press the Power Button.
- The computer turns on for less than a second, then shuts off again.
- After about 4 more seconds, it turns on and starts normally (with no additional input)
Does this indicate a problem with my PSU? How much of a problem is it? Will I need a new PSU to fix it immediately, or can I continue to use it despite how annoying it is? Thanks for all the help, guys. The components are literally in my Newegg shopping cart right now, just waiting for the NeoGAF stamp of approval!
I'm looking to make an upgrade to an Intel CPU. How does this look?
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99-UD3P
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400
Case (gonna be using a friend's old case): NZXT H440
I plan to get a new graphics cards down the line, but much later. I think the CPU upgrade is substantial enough. I have some questions about this build, though:
1. How well do the new parts work with each other and with the old parts I will be carrying over? Is my cooler good enough?
2. How much of an upgrade over my old build is this one?
3. This isn't really concerning my new build, but it may affect whether or not I need a new PSU. A couple of days ago, my computer would start abnormally. Here's what happens:
- I press the Power Button.
- The computer turns on for less than a second, then shuts off again.
- After about 4 more seconds, it turns on and starts normally (with no additional input)
Does this indicate a problem with my PSU? How much of a problem is it? Will I need a new PSU to fix it immediately, or can I continue to use it despite how annoying it is? Thanks for all the help, guys. The components are literally in my Newegg shopping cart right now, just waiting for the NeoGAF stamp of approval!
opticalmace
Member
Hm, try putting the video card in a different PCI-E slot and see if it works there or not.
Bad, those parts are incompatible. Skylake (your CPU) needs a Z170 platform, not X99. And you should go for the K version, i.e. the 6700K, so that you can overclock. It'll be a huge improvement over your old system CPU-wise. Also, go for faster ram, say DDR4-3000. G.Skill is quite competitive on price there.
About the rebooting, that's actually common on a lot of systems. I would not assume your PSU is defective because of that necessarily.
Silent_Ocarina
Member
Thanks for the reply! It's pretty late in NA, but I was so eager to place the order, so your advice is much appreciated. How are these components?
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000
Motherboard: Not sure what's better between GIGABYTE GA-Z170XP-SLI and GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-Gaming 6
I'm fine with the normal i7-6700. I don't plan on overclocking, really, and the K version is a bit too steep of a price increase for my tastes. I plan on getting a GTX 970 a few months from now (hopefully the price may drop by then), and I think overall that would be a nice upgrade from my current build. It's unfortunate that it's basically a new computer at that point, though, haha.
Also, my computer started having that reboot problem literally two days ago after three-ish years of starting perfectly fine, so that struck me as odd. But as long as it isn't harming my system in any way, I think I can live with it.
A PC based around the Pentium G3258 would actually be quite viable for PS2 and GC/Wii emulation. See these performance results for PS2 and Dolphin, both of which were done on an overclocked G3258 and a GTX 760 which is a middle range graphics card.
Do you have any existing computer parts to use in this build, or do you need a whole tower? Anything you already have such as a hard drive or case that can be put toward the parts list will help keep the budget low. Otherwise for an entire PC tower, I recommend something like this, which is still over your budget after counting rebates.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin ECO2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ NCIX US) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($104.80 @ Newegg)
Case: Enermax Thorex ATX Mid Tower Case ($24.00 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($23.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $364.61
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-23 04:12 EST-0500
If possible, also consider looking for used parts for the graphics card and case.
Try this Gigabyte oriented guide, as well as this more in-depth guide that also references Gigabyte.
The Gigabyte Gaming 6 model is the higher end model of the two, but I've been recommending the cheaper Z170XP-SLI model for most people as it should meet most users' needs just fine.
Hard to say but have a look at the board manual to see where the temp sensors are located and you'll be able to work it out. Sounds like chipset or maybe VRMs.
Using motherboard software will likely list the temps with real location names rather than generic names that hwmonitor provides.
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