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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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RGM79

Member
I'd recommend grabbing your Windows 10 key with "Produkey" and downloading the ISO from Microsoft to do a fresh install.

The Windows 10 reset feature is supposed to be improved over the reset function in Windows 8/8.1, but a clean installation wouldn't hurt. That said, versions of Windows 10 that were upgraded from 7/8/8.1 have a new activation scheme that registers a record with Microsoft. As long as Windows 10 was activated once on a set of hardware, a record is saved with Microsoft's servers so the next time around reinstalling Windows 10 on the same hardware won't require a product key (you can still manually input your key if you like), and it will automatically activate itself when it connects to the internet for the first time.
 

longdi

Banned
I will follow these steps to get W10 Pro 1151 ISO directly from MS site.

Go this page using IE11, hit F12 and change user agent string to Apple Safari(ipad) found in the emulation tab, and boom you can download the 1151 ISO without needing MS useless and slow upgrade agent.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Create bootable USB stick with Rufus portable exe.
https://rufus.akeo.ie/downloads/rufus-2.6p.exe

If you have W7/8 pro key from your old lap/desktop, then follow these steps to activate using your old keys.
http://www.zdnet.com/article/going-pro-how-to-upgrade-windows-10-home-without-hassles/

You can now clean install from your USB3 stick anytime, like the old days, but much faster. :D
 

LT Snoshado

Member
Here's my build that should be complete by the end of this week... Let me know what you guys think of it:

  • Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 ATX Case
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO Motherboard
  • Intel Core i7-6700K CPU
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW+
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 RAM (2666MHz)
  • Corsair CX 750M PSU
  • Samsung 840 EVO SSD (250GB)
  • Seagate 7200 RPM HDDs (2+1TB)
  • Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GTX
    CPU Cooler

I'm just getting back into gaming and will be using this PC for digital media as well (Photoshop, Illustrator, & video editing).
 

LilJoka

Member
Here's my build that should be complete by the end of this week... Let me know what you guys think of it:

  • Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 ATX Case
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO Motherboard
  • Intel Core i7-6700K CPU
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW+
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 RAM (2666MHz)
  • Corsair CX 750M PSU
  • Samsung 840 EVO SSD (250GB)
  • Seagate 7200 RPM HDDs (2+1TB)
  • Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GTX
    CPU Cooler

I'm just getting back into gaming and will be using this PC for digital media as well (Photoshop, Illustrator, & video editing).

Great parts choice, but really should have got a different PSU, the CX range is low end stuff.
 
Which is the better monitor GAF: Dell P2414H, Dell 2340H or HP 23xw? PWM free and panel quality are priorities, also glossy vs anti glare coating is fucking my mind.
 

LordAlu

Member
Here's my build that should be complete by the end of this week... Let me know what you guys think of it:

  • Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 ATX Case
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO Motherboard
  • Intel Core i7-6700K CPU
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW+
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 RAM (2666MHz)
  • Corsair CX 750M PSU
  • Samsung 840 EVO SSD (250GB)
  • Seagate 7200 RPM HDDs (2+1TB)
  • Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GTX
    CPU Cooler

I'm just getting back into gaming and will be using this PC for digital media as well (Photoshop, Illustrator, & video editing).
Whilst you'll be using it to get back into gaming, is the primary use of this PC for your digital work? You might want to look more at X99 for the extra cores/threads, so something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($374.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($183.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($81.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1471.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-24 04:11 EST-0500
 

LT Snoshado

Member
Great parts choice, but really should have got a different PSU, the CX range is low end stuff.

I should've clarified that I'm sort of upgrading my current rig by replacing the CPU, RAM, and motherboard.

Since you mentioned it though, I'll definitely check out some PSU alternatives!

Whilst you'll be using it to get back into gaming, is the primary use of this PC for your digital work? You might want to look more at X99 for the extra cores/threads...

For the time being, I think it'll be used more for gaming. Depending on what happens during the between now and June, that may change to no gaming and all work... or vice versa!
 

RGM79

Member
Here's my build that should be complete by the end of this week... Let me know what you guys think of it:

  • Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 ATX Case
  • ASUS ROG MAXIMUS VIII HERO Motherboard
  • Intel Core i7-6700K CPU
  • EVGA GeForce GTX 970 FTW+
  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB DDR4 RAM (2666MHz)
  • Corsair CX 750M PSU
  • Samsung 840 EVO SSD (250GB)
  • Seagate 7200 RPM HDDs (2+1TB)
  • Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GTX
    CPU Cooler

I'm just getting back into gaming and will be using this PC for digital media as well (Photoshop, Illustrator, & video editing).

It's very high end, but I hope you didn't get the 840 Evo brand new. It's old and discontinued, there are better SSDs. The CX750M isn't that great either, better quality power supplies can often be found for similar prices. How much are you paying for all that?

Edit: Didn't notice you already addressed those concerns.
 

LilJoka

Member
I should've clarified that I'm sort of upgrading my current rig by replacing the CPU, RAM, and motherboard.

Since you mentioned it though, I'll definitely check out some PSU alternatives!

For the time being, I think it'll be used more for gaming. Depending on what happens during the between now and June, that may change to no gaming and all work... or vice versa!

If you are re using parts then that makes sense.
 

LT Snoshado

Member
It's very high end, but I hope you didn't get the 840 Evo brand new. It's old and discontinued, there are better SSDs. The CX750M isn't that great either, better quality power supplies can often be found for similar prices. How much are you paying for all that?

Edit: Didn't notice you already addressed those concerns.

I believe my total for the motherboard, CPU, RAM, and CPU cooler was around $850-900.

You mention that there are better SSDs on the market these days? Have any suggestions?? I'm definitely going to pick up an M.2 drive in the next couple of months but wouldn't mind adding more SSD storage to my system either.

(Damn, the PSU I have seems to have gotten some very mixed..and bad reviews lol)
 

RGM79

Member
I believe my total for the motherboard, CPU, RAM, and CPU cooler was around $850-900.

You mention that there are better SSDs on the market these days? Have any suggestions?? I'm definitely going to pick up an M.2 drive in the next couple of months but wouldn't mind adding more SSD storage to my system either.

(Damn, the PSU I have seems to have gotten some very mixed..and bad reviews lol)

Around here we recommend the Samsung 850 Evo and Crucial BX100/MX100/MX200. If you don't mind the extra cost, the 850 Pro is very nice. As far as M.2 drives go, the Samsung 950 Pro is very high end and is one of the best ones you can get.

With those new parts, are you planning to overclock? You'd better be, otherwise the premium cost will be somewhat wasted as you could have gone with cheaper alternatives for same/similar performance levels.
 

Micerider

Member
So GAF, I caved in and decided to replace my old X51 (R1, with i5 3450 and GTX 660 OEM) as the upgradeability was really poor.

Still a "comfy couch" PC mostly, but I have a 5 meter HDMI cable to go allong to plug on the small 22" PC screen locked in a cupboard/desk in the living-room for the mouse-keyboard stuffs.

I was initially willing to wait for Pascal and Polaris to jump, but as it might be another half year before anything concrete, I decided to go regardless and to make minimal expense on the GPU for a later replacement as soon as the 14nm and 16nm GPU's are out in the mid-high end range. Luckily found a promotion on a 7970 (still quite on par with GTX 960 and r9 380 so more than decent in my eyes) for 90 EUR (crazy as this is even cheaper than a 750Ti or 260x).

Here goes :

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 SATA 6Gb/s 2 To
BitFenix Phenom M Micro-ATX (noir)
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250 Go
Intel Core i5-6600 (3.3 GHz)
G.Skill RipJaws 5 Series Noir 16 Go (2x 8 Go) DDR4 3200 MHz CL16
ASRock Z170M Pro4S
Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3 Go Lite RF


Decided to go with the "non-K" version of the 6600 as it had better price and availability than the K version and still has somewhat interesting OC potential with a Z170 chip (I however don't intend to OC initially, or very little, until I feel the "need" to, so further argument not to go for the "K" version).

Decided to go for High Frequency DDR4 too, as it's advantage in some memory intensive games like The Witcher 3 has been proven and I could get it for a mere 20 EUR more than the 2400 Mhz equivalent. Probably also better if I intend to keep the RAM for a revision of my rig a few years down the line.

So, it's already ordered but do you see any omission or inconsistency here?
 

LT Snoshado

Member
Around here we recommend the Samsung 850 Evo and Crucial BX100/MX100/MX200. If you don't mind the extra cost, the 850 Pro is very nice. As far as M.2 drives go, the Samsung 950 Pro is very high end and is one of the best ones you can get.

With those new parts, are you planning to overclock? You'd better be, otherwise the premium cost will be somewhat wasted as you could have gone with cheaper alternatives for same/similar performance levels.

Awesome! Thank you. I'm not too surprised to see that Samsung isn't the only SSD manufacturer worth buying anymore.

...and yes! I've always wanted to overclock but never had the right hardware to do so. Definitely looking forward to finding the limits of this system (and planning on picking up a second GTX 970 down the road, too!). Any good advice as far as where to start with overclocking info?
 

RGM79

Member
Awesome! Thank you. I'm not too surprised to see that Samsung isn't the only SSD manufacturer worth buying anymore.

...and yes! I've always wanted to overclock but never had the right hardware to do so. Definitely looking forward to finding the limits of this system (and planning on picking up a second GTX 970 down the road, too!). Any good advice as far as where to start with overclocking info?

I like overclock.net for their community-guides and feedback. Here's their best Skylake guide.
 

luffeN

Member
Can anyone recommend a 27 inch 144 hz display? I have a GTX 970. I currently have a Benq XL2411T. Not sure if TN or IPS. I game (Rocket League, Shooters, Grim Dawn) and work (translation programs, office stuff) on it. Budget "don't worry" aka I need good quality.
 
I was wondering as I have just put a new 3TB WD Red into my Ubuntuserver. How does extending a partition actually work?

How is the data stored across the two HDDs?

Also no RAID isn't really useful for me.
 

LilJoka

Member
I was wondering as I have just put a new 3TB WD Red into my Ubuntuserver. How does extending a partition actually work?

How is the data stored across the two HDDs?

Also no RAID isn't really useful for me.

If you are going to span 2 drives to appear as one, I advise against this, if you lose one disk you lose both. Just keep the drives seperate.

Although in Linux this might differ, something to check before proceeding.
 
If you are going to span 2 drives to appear as one, I advise against this, if you lose one disk you lose both. Just keep the drives seperate.

I thought so, it just makes it a bit of a pain for media use. Does extending a partition then make it a software RAID 0, or is that something different?

I think the plan is to install FreeNAS as a virtual machine. I just bought 8GB RAM to put in the server so combined with the 2GB I already have that should be enough to run both.
 
pcbuild5su0p.png


I think this is my final build, but I am not 100 % sure about the MB, maybe I should invest more, but don't know in which one.
 
The list that Tom's Hardware provides are generalized rankings, the GTX 770's performance can vary from game to game and according to drivers. The 2GB of VRAM can limit the GTX 770 in some situations. Also I don't like that it only has a 90 day warranty. It's your choice, though.

If you look at the individual games from the TechPowerUp review link (I know the linked review is for the R9 390, but the charts list multiple graphics cards), you'll see how well the GTX 770 performs against the R9 380, which is generally on par with the GTX 960. In some games like MGSV:TPP and Battlefield 4, the GTX 770 performs rather well and pulls ahead of the R9 380. In other titles like GTAV, The Witcher 3, and COD:AW, the GTX 770 is slower than the R9 380.

I'm not sure why the GTX 770 performs so poorly in GTAV from TPU's results. It shouldn't be that bad.

wow what the hell at that 770 GTA V performance! geez! well i'm thinking maybe a cpu upgrade to the 8320 from my 4100 would be a blow the doors off upgrade for $129. graphics card i guess i'm unsure now. the 770 looked solid, i'm coming from a 650ti and honestly i'd rather just stick with nvidia even though the r9 does seem sweet, i just kinda wanna keep things on the same pathway since i haven't really done any serious upgrading since building this my first pc. the 8320E version is $20 cheaper though, i don't want to overclock, think i should go with E?

lets see...at microcenter the 950 is $145 - $200....770 is $180 refurbished (sounded nice until i saw that gta V data which i def do wanna play....)...not sure if any other options are worth looking at...i kinda don't wanna switch to the r9 or anything just in case i have issues, i'm not planning on reinstalling my os or anything and doing both upgrades at once i kinda wanna limit the chances for unexpected problems lol. that's really annoying, like shit how can the 770 be so gad at GTA compared to those other cards where it's fairly comprable? wtf. it's not really worth it to me personally to spend north of $200 on a graphics card, my 650 was $130 3 years ago when i got it and i feel it worked out perfectly fine for my needs. i'm starting to think i should just jack up my CPU for now and wait for the new cards to come out to pick up a videocard, i feel like my cpu gets maxed out more than my video card does, as dated as my gpu might be
 
I guess I was just expecting more since it had been so long since I upgraded my CPU. That CPU was apart of my original build and every part had been replaced since then. Performance wise I haven't noticed any difference in games.

Yeah CPU advancements have been severely disappointing the last 3 years. I needed to upgrade my 3 year old i7-920 (3820) due to Rift, so I started looking around. Could build a new 6700k PC but the more I dug into it, it turns out I'd be looking at a 15-20% performance increase in benchmarks, even less in real world.

I ended up just buying a used Z420 workstation on ebay for $400 which is a 6-way E5-1650, 3 years old, and dropping in a new 970 card (my orig PC has a lot of problems and I didn't want to stick with it). Good enough for Rift for the next year. This 3 year old E5-1650 is benching 9125 physics score on Firemark, just barely below your 6600. That is ridiculous to me.

I'm really hoping Kaby Lake and Pascal are more impressive performance wise.
 

Salaadin

Member
Thinking of finally switching to a mechanical keyboard. I like having customizable backlighting, programmable keys, and media controls on the keyboard. Since I already use a Logitech mouse and have the gaming software already installed, I was looking at getting a Logitech keyboard. The G910 caught my eye but I wanted to run it by you guys first since there are a lot of options out there.

I was also considering the Corsair K95 RGB but Ive never owned Corsair products before so Im on the fence.
 

Yudoken

Member
This is a pc build for my friend, he liked my idea to build a small form factor pc for transportation but without less performance than a regular sized pc.
It's mainly for 1080p/high/ultra and 60fps gaming.
He already owns a pc which is heavily outdated and will gifted to his cousin.

Specs:
(PCparts picker didn't show up the mainboard, choosed the cheapest parts with idealo.de myself)

Mainboard: ASRock H110M-ITX

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 Sockel 1151

DDR4: 16GB (2x 8GB) Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4-RAM 2400 MHz PC4-19200 CL16 Kit

GPU: KFA2 GeForce GTX 970 EX OC Black Edition

SSD: 250GB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5 zoll

HDD: WD Elements Portable externe Festplatte 2TB

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP-100 Muscle

Case and psu: Fractal Design Node 2 with 450W psu

CPU = 225,01 €

Motherboard = 72,75 €

DDR4 Ram = 89,75 €

GPU = 329,80 €

SSD = 81,72€

HDD = 89,90 €

CPU Cooler = 35,94 €

Case with psu = 149,90 €

Total Price = about 1.074,92 € (prices changes and some delivery costs I didn't include for a few reasons)


What do you think?

Is there anything you would change?

I'm gonna order it tonight in 7 hours if there are no change recommendations.
Already changed the Radeon R9 380 to a 970 and the crucial ssd to a Samsung.

Before switching to the Fractal Design case I wanted to get him a SilverStone SST-ML08B case with a SilverStone SST-SX500-LG psu but I just saw the review of the Fractal Design Node 202 on Linus Tech Tips Vessel Channel and we came to the conclusion that the Fractal case looks more interesting and is cheaper than the Silverstone with the psu so we decided to go with Fractal.
 

bomblord1

Banned
This is a pc build for my friend, he liked my idea to build a small form factor pc for transportation but without less performance than a regular sized pc.
It's mainly for 1080p/high/ultra and 60fps gaming.
He already owns a pc which is heavily outdated and will gifted to his cousin.

Specs:
(PCparts picker didn't show up the mainboard, needed to do the pickign myself)

Mainboard: ASRock H110M-ITX

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 Sockel 1151

DDR4: 16GB (2x 8GB) Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR4-RAM 2400 MHz PC4-19200 CL16 Kit

GPU: KFA2 GeForce GTX 970 EX OC Black Edition

SSD: 250GB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5 zoll

HDD: WD Elements Portable externe Festplatte 2TB

CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP-100 Muscle

Case and psu: Fractal Design Node 2 with 450W psu

CPU = 225,01 €

Motherboard = 72,75 €

DDR4 Ram = 89,75 €

GPU = 329,80 €

SSD = 81,72€

HDD = 89,90 €

CPU Cooler = 35,94 €

Case with psu = 149,90 €

Total Price = about 1.074,92 € (prices changes and some delivery costs I didn't include for a few reasons)


What do you think?

Is there anything you would change?

I'm gonna order it tonight in 7 hours if there are no change recommendations.
Already changed the Radeon R9 380 to a 970 and the crucial ssd to a Samsung.

I also wanted to get him a SilverStone SST-ML08B with a SilverStone SST-SX500-LG but it cost more and didn't looked nicer than this case (just watched the revie w of teh Fractal case at it at Linus Tech tips Vessel Channel)

Link to the review

At a glance it looks good definitely no compromise. You could probably get it cheaper though by swapping out some parts. Once again this is at a glance I'll have to check to be sure...

Edit: Wait that's Euros lol looks good.
 

Yudoken

Member
At a glance it looks good definitely no compromise. You could probably get it cheaper though by swapping out some parts. Once again this is at a glance I'll have to check to be sure...

What would be good to swap out?
Thank you, I already build a couple of pc's and I appreciate any suggestions!
Also forgot to tell that we want to to build the external hdd into the pc, it's also cheaper than getting one without a case.
 

Smokey

Member
I'd recommend grabbing your Windows 10 key with "Produkey" and downloading the ISO from Microsoft to do a fresh install.

The Windows 10 reset feature is supposed to be improved over the reset function in Windows 8/8.1, but a clean installation wouldn't hurt. That said, versions of Windows 10 that were upgraded from 7/8/8.1 have a new activation scheme that registers a record with Microsoft. As long as Windows 10 was activated once on a set of hardware, a record is saved with Microsoft's servers so the next time around reinstalling Windows 10 on the same hardware won't require a product key (you can still manually input your key if you like), and it will automatically activate itself when it connects to the internet for the first time.

I'll mess around with it as is for a bit. Everything seems to be working proper for now, so I'll hold off, but will reference this if some issues come up. Thanks.

Maybe I should have got 3000mhz ddr4 over 2400mhz? Hmmm

You got a new rig?
 

Majine

Banned
Noob question: I'm thinking of replacing my PSU from a 500W to like a 750W for future planning, do you have to replace all the cable management or can I just slot the box in and re-hook everything up? Is it a per-brand thing?
 

Volotaire

Member
Noob question: I'm thinking of replacing my PSU from a 500W to like a 750W for future planning, do you have to replace all the cable management or can I just slot the box in and re-hook everything up? Is it a per-brand thing?

Was your old PSU fully modular? If so, and your new PSU is fully modular too, then you should be able to swap it in without removing the cables. Most modern fully modular PSU's use the same standard connections on the PSU.

If it was partly modular, and you are going to a partly modular PSU, then you would only be able to keep in the cables that are modular on your new PSU (usually PCIe and SATA power). You will have to take out the core power cables and replace them with your new PSU cables.

If you're going to a non modular system, you would not be able to.

Thee might be nuances to each PSU too.

I hope that helps. Please correct me if I was incorrect on any part of the explanation.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'll mess around with it as is for a bit. Everything seems to be working proper for now, so I'll hold off, but will reference this if some issues come up. Thanks.



You got a new rig?

Transitioning lol
Sold the 3960x rig for £500, case, water cooling, CPU, board and ram. Was just kind of loud and used too much power for just being a nas.

And got a skylake itx board with a G4400 as Intel is out of stock of 6700k's :(
So once I get the i7 in, ill be swapping the GTX 970 out the ITX i7 3770 rig into the skylake itx rig and keeping the 3770 rig as a nas.

In another note, I got the CL14 2400mhz ram to boot 11-11-11-32 1T at 2400mhz 1.35v. I think the G4400 just doesn't want to boot higher frequencies.
 

bomblord1

Banned
What would be good to swap out?
Thank you, I already build a couple of pc's and I appreciate any suggestions!
Also forgot to tell that we want to to build the external hdd into the pc, it's also cheaper than getting one without a case.

I didn't realize at first those prices were Euro's I actually can't comment on less expensive parts sorry lol.
 
Ouch, couple of pins bent totally the opposite way that might snap if you try to bend back.
I would still give it a shot, get a crafting knife or something like a thin blade with a point tip and you can try bend them back to match the overall pattern.

So I've bent a couple in the correct direction but still a while to go.

What happened?

I must have set the my CPU improperly when I was installing the new cooler and you see the end result.
 

DirtyLarry

Member
Simple Question.
Should I wait until closer to Oculus's release to build a new PC or will it not really matter?

I do not follow component releases like I once did. I know Nvidia has something coming out this year but I am not sure there is a release date. I believe the same for AMD). I also believe I read Intel may be releasing something as well but I am not 100% sure.

Cost is not really an issue so do not let that be the determining factor. I just want to make sure I have near the best technology offered at the time of OR's release.

My current PC lasted me 7 years however it has been showing its age the past year or so. I did upgrade my GPU once over those years as well. If I can get the same kind of mileage out of this new build, that would be fantastic, but not expected.
TIA,
DL
 
Simple Question.
Should I wait until closer to Oculus's release to build a new PC or will it not really matter?

I do not follow component releases like I once did. I know Nvidia has something coming out this year but I am not sure there is a release date. I believe the same for AMD). I also believe I read Intel may be releasing something as well but I am not 100% sure.

Cost is not really an issue so do not let that be the determining factor. I just want to make sure I have near the best technology offered at the time of OR's release.

My current PC lasted me 7 years however it has been showing its age the past year or so. I did upgrade my GPU once over those years as well. If I can get the same kind of mileage out of this new build, that would be fantastic, but not expected.
TIA,
DL

If you don't need to buy/upgrade right now, I would just wait. We might get the upper end Pascal card by that time, which would be a killer for VR. No guarantee though.

If you wanted to do some high-end gaming in the meantime, a 6700k/980 Ti system would be still be excellent mind you. Based on you saying you want the best for OR, your best bet is to wait and see if there's new stuff out by the time the Rift releases.
 
Thinking of finally switching to a mechanical keyboard. I like having customizable backlighting, programmable keys, and media controls on the keyboard. Since I already use a Logitech mouse and have the gaming software already installed, I was looking at getting a Logitech keyboard. The G910 caught my eye but I wanted to run it by you guys first since there are a lot of options out there.

I was also considering the Corsair K95 RGB but Ive never owned Corsair products before so Im on the fence.

I was coming here to ask the same thing about the G910 but I'm in a different boat.

I'm planning on building a gaming PC for the first time in the new few months but I'm coming from a MacBook Pro since 2009 so I'm starting completely fresh and from the ground up. Instead of buying everything at once, I thought I'd buy non-PC parts (keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers) beforehand.

I was looking at the G10 and this Logitech mouse so I wanted to get some opinions on both if anyone could provide some. I'd greatly appreciate it.
 
Simple Question.
Should I wait until closer to Oculus's release to build a new PC or will it not really matter?

I do not follow component releases like I once did. I know Nvidia has something coming out this year but I am not sure there is a release date. I believe the same for AMD). I also believe I read Intel may be releasing something as well but I am not 100% sure.

Cost is not really an issue so do not let that be the determining factor. I just want to make sure I have near the best technology offered at the time of OR's release.

My current PC lasted me 7 years however it has been showing its age the past year or so. I did upgrade my GPU once over those years as well. If I can get the same kind of mileage out of this new build, that would be fantastic, but not expected.
TIA,
DL

Did you already pre order Rift? Do you plan on buying a Vive or a Rift? First set of Rift preorders arrive in late March, but if you order now its up to July delivery.

If you are in the March/April window, you can build a capable system with just about any 3-year or newer CPU and a 970 (or 390) GPU for $800-1k and it'll last at least 12 months.

By mid year we should start seeing announcements of Kaby Lake CPUs from Intel and Pascal/Polaris from Nvidia/AMD. However, its almost certain that many of these offerings will be jacked up crazy price wise, and just waiting 6 months will probably save you 30-50% or more.

Basically its not a great time to upgrade right now while we are on the cusp of new rollouts, but then again those rollouts will likely be rare and pricey for a short period. We also really don't know how much better than current systems they will be, but expectations are they will be quite good since hardware has sorta stagnated performance wise for a year or two now.

FWIW I bought a used E6-1650 desktop, bought a new 970 GPU, slapped a $150 SSD into it, and I'll be ready for my March Oculus rift pre order. I don't even know how much I'll like VR, so I didn't want to blow a ton of money on something that may be the equivalent of a Wii for me. If I really love it I figure I can upgrade to 2016 tech later this year, but a 970 combo system should be more than enough for the first year of Oculus. I debated between a 970 and a 980, but the 970 I bought was $300 vs $550+ for a 980 ti and the performance gain wasn't double or anywhere near that. I also figure a 970 will sell really well for another 18 months, whereas a 980 may drop harder if some of the new cards come out at a similar performance for lower cost.
 

Lunar FC

Member
In attempt to get my computer running we broke my brothers in the process. It doesn't respond at all when pressing the power button.

We've done the paper clip test on the power supply and the fan starts.

His motherboard has power and reset buttons on it which light up when plugged into the power.

Our running theories are a processor issue or somehow the power button broke? Shouldn't the power button on the motherboard boot the whole system?
 
In attempt to get my computer running we broke my brothers in the process. It doesn't respond at all when pressing the power button.

We've done the paper clip test on the power supply and the fan starts.

His motherboard has power and reset buttons on it which light up when plugged into the power.

Our running theories are a processor issue or somehow the power button broke? Shouldn't the power button on the motherboard boot the whole system?

What did you guys do to his system?
 

Lunar FC

Member
What did you guys do to his system?

My computer kept just restarting endlessly so we put his power supply in mine to test if that was the issue (it wasnt) and when we put his power supply back into his rig the entire thing ia unresponsive. We're dumbfounded over here on the issue.
 
My computer kept just restarting endlessly so we put his power supply in mine to test if that was the issue (it wasnt) and when we put his power supply back into his rig the entire thing ia unresponsive. We're dumbfounded over here on the issue.

24-pin cable and 8-pin cable to the motherboard? PCI-E cable(s) to the video card plugged in?
 
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