lordfuzzybutt
Member
I overclocked my i5-4670K to 4.0Ghz and did 10 runs (High) with IntelBurnTest. Should I push for 4.2?
Results:
That's a bit hot for 4ghz. What vcore did you use?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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That's a bit hot for 4ghz. What vcore did you use?
That's a pretty good price for an IPS monitor and reviews are excellent. Otherwise if you're interested in a larger monitor, there's this Asus VN248H-P ($111) which offers 23.8" of screen size for $11 more compared to that AOC's 21.5" screen. It is also an IPS monitor and if you look at the Newegg link, reviews are similarly excellent after a few hundred reviews.
As far as I can find, it's because the R9 270 cannot do that with a passive Displayport cable adaptor as it has technical limitations. Apparently it only allows a third monitor with an active displayport adaptor which is as you can guess, more expensive than a simple passive one. See the AMD Eyefinity FAQ here and examples of active DP cables here.
I overclocked my i5-4670K to 4.0Ghz and did 10 runs (High) with IntelBurnTest. Should I push for 4.2?
Results:
Quickly rerun the test once with HWinfo using "Sensor only" selected, link in the OP, and show us the result.
Silphonica
Banned
I'm planning to use it for a lot. I've used photoshop and video editors on low ram machines in the past with tolerable results. However there are more intensive things I want to delve into, like 3d modelling. And i'd rather just save a little extra for extra ram without having to worry about it.
I actually saw a fantastic deal on 64gb DDR4, if it's within my budget, i don't see why not.
VanillaCakeIsBurning
Member
I'm looking to put together a new computer but all of this is so mindboggling that I kind of feel like giving up.
I spent most of the day trying to look at different parts and I feel more confused than before I started.
I spent most of the day trying to look at different parts and I feel more confused than before I started.
Best thing to do is forget about the past. Learn about what's current. Everything revolves around the CPU. Learn about Haswell and Skylake. It will make things much easier for you. If you fill out the questions from the OP, I'm sure RGM79 will suggest a build for you based on your specifications. You build your PC, and slowly you'll understand more.
Yeah, that sounds totally reasonable.
There's a short questionnaire in the first post of this thread, fill it out and we can help you figure out what to get.
Burgess_101
Member
I meant to write unallocated space, can files be in those partitions?
I have worked with computers for a long time and I have never had this happen to me before. It is a learning experience I guess.
VanillaCakeIsBurning
Member
I guess I'll try that as I have no clue on how to proceed.
[Basic Desktop Questions]
Budget: 1000-1400 I guess + Canada
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming - 5
Monitor Resolution: 1600 x 900, don't really see a need to get a bigger one.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Need to run the latest stuff at 60fps at least. (PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA) don't think these things have anything to do with 60 FPS so I guess it doesn't matter.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Not reusing anything.
When will you build?: As soon as possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Never done it before so no.
As you can see I basically need a new gaming PC. Other things I have to add; from the videos I've seen + prices it seems like the GTX 960 or Radeon R9 380 would be good choices for the video card, the videos showed them mostly running things at 50-60 fps at 1080p (I guess at my res they will run a bit better since it's lower than 1080p).
I also need a SSD and HDD since I want to put Windows OS and games on the SSD for faster load times. Apparently this SSD is supposed to be pretty good.
For the CPU I read that intel CPUs are the best now, I basically need one of those ones that are good for gaming I guess. I'd also like 16GB of RAM but I don't know which ones good/bad.
Things I have absolutely zero clue about include the case/motherboard/power supply/disc drive that can read cd/dvd/blu ray (if those even exist). I'm not sure if that covers everything or not, there's so many parts it feels like I'm always forgetting about something.
Also I heard that sites like NCIX.com have some kind of service where they put the PC together for you then ship it to you if you buy all the parts there.
Is that recommended or should I receive the parts then take it to someone for them to put it together? I just want to know if online preassembling has a bad reputation or not if I have them build it or if it's better to have a local business do it.
I appreciate any help that anyone can give me.
Spent all night after work trying to isolate the reason behind my lack of getting to POST or any image displayed on my monitor screen.
My ASUS board lacks an internal speaker, and my case didn't include one so I couldn't tell by boot beeps what is happening. The ASUS board does have an Q-code display for errors however and while nothing dramatic was shown according to the manual(it stays on '32' - Post Memory Initialization?) it does seem like my Corsair RAM is likely the culprit.
I did run an XPS profile in Bios which increased my RAM speed to their designated values(3000mhz) vs the default underclocked 2133mhz. This is normal to do and recommended to switch on even in the manual. A bit of googling and I discovered various reports of people having similar boot errors as me after weeks of using this same RAM at those faster clock speeds. It's rare, but until I try different RAM out, it's impossible to say if I just had bad luck here.
Ordered Kingston replacements and will be RMA'ing the Corsair regardless. Mobo seems fine, PSU is working, and I even rebuilt my entire PC including reseating my Processor to check pins for faults(none). It has to be the RAM....and if not, I quit PC gaming altogether. This added expense and time commitment has been such a turnoff the past few days.
My ASUS board lacks an internal speaker, and my case didn't include one so I couldn't tell by boot beeps what is happening. The ASUS board does have an Q-code display for errors however and while nothing dramatic was shown according to the manual(it stays on '32' - Post Memory Initialization?) it does seem like my Corsair RAM is likely the culprit.
I did run an XPS profile in Bios which increased my RAM speed to their designated values(3000mhz) vs the default underclocked 2133mhz. This is normal to do and recommended to switch on even in the manual. A bit of googling and I discovered various reports of people having similar boot errors as me after weeks of using this same RAM at those faster clock speeds. It's rare, but until I try different RAM out, it's impossible to say if I just had bad luck here.
Ordered Kingston replacements and will be RMA'ing the Corsair regardless. Mobo seems fine, PSU is working, and I even rebuilt my entire PC including reseating my Processor to check pins for faults(none). It has to be the RAM....and if not, I quit PC gaming altogether. This added expense and time commitment has been such a turnoff the past few days.
Manp
Member
you sure ram are getting the right voltage for that clock? have you tried setting it manually?
that's the fun part lol
It's not promising, but it seems that from Newegg's user reviews, several others have noted hardware issues with the Asus Maximus VIII Hero motherboard failing days to months after putting together their computer. Go here, click on the reviews, then sort by "lowest rated". It's unfortunate, but overall the motherboard seems to have a poor review score average coming from Newegg customers.
Good luck with the replacement power supply and RAM.
You're right that you don't need quite as much GPU performance to reach 60FPS on your 1600x900 monitor compared to 1080p, but a stronger graphics card can keep maintaining a high enough framerate at the latest games than a weaker graphics card and won't need to be replaced/upgraded as quickly, and/or can do it at higher graphics settings.
Yes, Samsung SSDs are good in general and Intel CPUs are recommended. On your budget 16GB of RAM is definitely possible to get, we will figure out recommendations for you. As for the rest of the parts, this is where a website like ca.pcpartpicker.com comes in. It's handy for referencing prices and keeping track of parts lists.
Yes, NCIX offers assembly. If you're worried about sloppy assembly or the PC being shipped to you in a non-working state, the product page for their assembly service does state that they will "assemble your PC, then test to ensure that no parts were DOA (dead on arrival) before shipping to you". There's also user reviews and comments at the bottom of the page, most of which appear to be positive. It could save time if you just have the parts delivered for someone to locally assemble it for you, of course. If you have a friend willing to help you with it, that's even better as you can oversee the assembly and learn a bit more about PC hardware.
How does this parts list look? It meets all of your stated needs.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($278.26 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($115.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($110.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($113.26 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.26 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 380 4GB SOC Video Card ($297.95 @ Vuugo)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.88 @ Canada Computers)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($75.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($128.00 @ shopRBC)
Total: $1314.56
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-27 02:31 EST-0500
If I may ask, are you planning to watch blu-ray movies with this PC? You will need to get additional software for playing back blu-ray discs. Otherwise if you're just planning to rip movies, you won't need that.
If I can even boot into bios, I'd stick to 2133mhz just for stability and never touch any sense profile again, but I cannot get anything to display on my monitor at all after boot. For all I know the ram is fine but the bios is unhappy with whatever xmp has done and it can't recover no matter how many times I clear cmos. Ugh...
Seems it could be a Z170 issue, or ASUS, or Corsair based on all sorts of similar reports. Who knows right now...
NCIX's assembly option is great. Their cable management is ace and you don't need to worry about troubleshooting DOA parts. If you live in Vancouver or Toronto you can also just pick it up at your nearest store instead of shipping. I would recommend it. I have used it three times now (myself, cousin, father).
Absoludacrous
Member
Ok, so I asked for help a week or two back and got great advice, but haven't pulled the trigger yet. I've been going back and forth on whether I wanted to go a bit bigger, since this is the first time in over a decade I'll have a current pc. So here's where I stand right now, and will probably make the call later on today:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($399.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($651.56 @ B&H)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1508.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-27 03:59 EST-0500
Any thoughts before I finally dive in?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($399.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($651.56 @ B&H)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $1508.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-27 03:59 EST-0500
Any thoughts before I finally dive in?
Have you got it boot with just 1 stick of ram? Did you update to the latest bios?
EVA UNIT 01
Member
So first timer here.
Dont know anything really.
On the previous few pages bomblord gave me a solid looking build but I have to say this one looks more promising and features a 970.
Can someone re-review it for me and let me know if it will do what id like which is essentially run most of todays games at 1080/60 as well as run dolphin/and PS2 emulation.
And if possible also reccommend me a dvd drive as well as let me know where I should be getting my OS.
Thanks.
Hey PCtechGAF,
I have this fairly old PC (i5 2500k @4,4GHz/GeForce 560ti/8GB DDR3 RAM 1600MHz). The plan was to upgrade it when the next series of GPUs come out. My video card died this morning though, so right now I'm not sure what to do.
Should I get a budget card and wait till September for a proper replacement, or should I just get a GTX 970 now and be done with it?
I'm more inclined towards the first option, because I'm bothered by the idea of paying near full price for a card when we're so close to the launch of a new series... but I'm also worried my CPU might be a bottleneck for future mid-high end cards.
I have this fairly old PC (i5 2500k @4,4GHz/GeForce 560ti/8GB DDR3 RAM 1600MHz). The plan was to upgrade it when the next series of GPUs come out. My video card died this morning though, so right now I'm not sure what to do.
Should I get a budget card and wait till September for a proper replacement, or should I just get a GTX 970 now and be done with it?
I'm more inclined towards the first option, because I'm bothered by the idea of paying near full price for a card when we're so close to the launch of a new series... but I'm also worried my CPU might be a bottleneck for future mid-high end cards.
Burkatron81
Member
This doesn't seem right, for that budget you definitely should get a pc with a decent gpu and cpu.
If you're not afraid of getting a good used pc 2nd hand you can get way better parts than new.
You don't even need to build it, just look for a pc for a pc with an i5 cpu and a decent gpu on sites like craigslist.
I really can't help you choosing the parts because I live in Europe.
The biggest problem with that build is it's using an older CPU that doesn't support DDR4 ram. If you are deadset on a 970 you could swap it out in the build I gave you but it would increase the price GPU's can be put in any build that has a big enough PSU and an open PCI-E slot
You could check out the Buy Sell Trade Thread someone's selling a 970 fairly cheaply over there.
Seems like a lot of money. You could certainly get something that performs better and is much more "future-proof" than that, for example:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£164.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus B150M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£65.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£71.82 @ More Computers)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£49.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (£89.99 @ Novatech)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£28.50 @ Aria PC)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£44.17 @ Amazon UK)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£12.98 @ Novatech)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) (£74.94 @ Aria PC)
Total: £603.37
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-27 14:42 GMT+0000
You could even get rid of the graphics card for now and get a better board or an aftermarket CPU cooler. If you decided to get Windows via Reddit (see RGM's disclaimer regarding buying a Windows licence via Reddit) you could save even more or put that towards improvements.
VGA technically supports 1080p/60 however you're looking at the difference between a digital and analog signal. An HDMI running to the same monitor at the same resolution should technically give a better picture. It's a bit of an oversimplification but think of the difference between a .JPG and a .PNG of the same image (the difference isn't exactly that extreme but it can still be noticeable). I also believe HDMI supports a wider color gamut.
For more info I suggest this article http://www.cnet.com/news/hdmi-vs-displayport-vs-dvi-vs-vga-which-connection-to-choose/
Even ignoring all of that a newer monitor would more than likely give you a better picture just due to newer technologies like IPS and LED backlights.
I am using Asrocks optimized OC presets and my fan is in performance mode.
[Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO]
I am using Asrocks optimized OC presets and my fan is in performance mode.
Yikes! This is now dwindling my confidence that the RAM is the culprit, and rather it is just a junk mobo.
At least if I need to replace or get a new one, I am still within the refund/return window for RMA ease. Still, the prospect of reassembling everything on a new board while dealing with returns and exchanges then reaching out to MS to re-verify my copy of Win 10 on the swapped mobo...feh.
I guess I should start considering new mobo options. I'll read more newegg reviews on popular ones, thanks for your help. I guess I will know tonight for sure when the new ram arrives.
I am using Asrocks optimized OC presets and my fan is in performance mode.
[Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO]
I am using Asrocks optimized OC presets and my fan is in performance mode.
CPU-Z doesn't show much. Download and run HWinfo, link in OP, in "Sensor only". Then, run a stress test. HWinfo will show us your min, Max and current VCore, temps and etc.
Ok thanks. Really I have no complaints with VGA at the moment so I think I'll keep my monitor (Yeah less pollution!)
Sort of posted this problem in The Division thread, but apparently the new Nvidia drivers are causing my GPU to pop up the notification safely remove hardware and eject media. I have a 980Ti, Windows 10 Pro. Others are reporting the same issue, I'm surprised Nvidia didn't notice this obvious bug.
I was wondering if there is a way to remove it? Through brute force maybe?
I was wondering if there is a way to remove it? Through brute force maybe?
Lol, getting the same problem, same setup.
What are the easiest and best ways to reduce noise coming from my case? I record myself on a microphone and I need complete silence in the room.
I have a Fractal R3, so it already comes with sound-absorbing foam, but it's nowhere near enough. Any suggestions?
I have a Fractal R3, so it already comes with sound-absorbing foam, but it's nowhere near enough. Any suggestions?
This is my first time building a PC (technically I built one around Vista in 2007, but it was for a class). Built this PC for work, mainly for video processing and Photoshop work.
Bounced everything off of several people who have experience building gaming PCs, and got thumbs up from all of them.
This is my trial run, kind of, because I intend to build a personal gaming PC one day in the future.
How would this build stack up if I were to, hypothetically, mess around with a few games during my breaks?
Work PC:
Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Gigabyte Radeon R9 380 4GB SOC Video Card
Thermaltake SMART 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Bounced everything off of several people who have experience building gaming PCs, and got thumbs up from all of them.
This is my trial run, kind of, because I intend to build a personal gaming PC one day in the future.
How would this build stack up if I were to, hypothetically, mess around with a few games during my breaks?
Work PC:
Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Gigabyte Radeon R9 380 4GB SOC Video Card
Thermaltake SMART 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
I don't know about your temperatures but I can definitely tell you that maximizing an application with all that empty space is just wrong.
Edit: Thinking about this: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LcVc23 . Anything I could change to that is good $/performance that I'm not aware of? Would my current RAM and Power supply be fine for it?
Been mostly playing console and lower end PC games, but it's time for an upgrade.
Mostly need a solid CPU/Motherboard/Video Card recommendation (I think I'd prefer Intel for cpu), as well as what SSD is models are good. Also whether or not to stick with my current RAM (8gb), and power supply (550w modular) - models are on the pcpartpicker link below.
Your Current Specs: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Yz7Xxr
Budget: US. ~$600-700 for CPU/Motherboard/VideoCard/SSD/Power supply(if needed).
Main Use: Going to mostly be using for gaming, game design, and some emulation. I'd like to be able to play newer games over the next few years at 1080p/30fps locked, 60fps being nice. Don't care about it being "Ultra Quality"/all the visual bells and whistles.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Don't anticipate going higher than that anytime soon
When will you build?: Likely February, but I am in no hurry if it is worth waiting until March
Will you be overclocking?: Yes
Been mostly playing console and lower end PC games, but it's time for an upgrade.
Mostly need a solid CPU/Motherboard/Video Card recommendation (I think I'd prefer Intel for cpu), as well as what SSD is models are good. Also whether or not to stick with my current RAM (8gb), and power supply (550w modular) - models are on the pcpartpicker link below.
Your Current Specs: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Yz7Xxr
Budget: US. ~$600-700 for CPU/Motherboard/VideoCard/SSD/Power supply(if needed).
Main Use: Going to mostly be using for gaming, game design, and some emulation. I'd like to be able to play newer games over the next few years at 1080p/30fps locked, 60fps being nice. Don't care about it being "Ultra Quality"/all the visual bells and whistles.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p. Don't anticipate going higher than that anytime soon
When will you build?: Likely February, but I am in no hurry if it is worth waiting until March
Will you be overclocking?: Yes
something weird is happening .
Whenever i am downloading a game on steam and i am going on youtube to watch something or doing something other internet related , there is a 70% chance my PC BSOD.
Now i am not a PC tech wizard ,but even i doubt it is normal to get a BSOD like this .
i can safely rule out drivers as iv'e gone through 3 different drivers and the problem persists .
any help would be appreciated .
Whenever i am downloading a game on steam and i am going on youtube to watch something or doing something other internet related , there is a 70% chance my PC BSOD.
Now i am not a PC tech wizard ,but even i doubt it is normal to get a BSOD like this .
i can safely rule out drivers as iv'e gone through 3 different drivers and the problem persists .
any help would be appreciated .
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Thorgal:
Does the BSOD only happen when you're doing BOTH things (YouTube and downloading)? Also, is your Steam install directory on the same drive as your OS?
Does the BSOD only happen when you're doing BOTH things (YouTube and downloading)? Also, is your Steam install directory on the same drive as your OS?
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Do you perchance have a really fast internet connection?
Depends on what your definition is of really fast , but i definitely would not say it is slow .
edit : to be a bit clearer : one time it BSOD on me , another my PC locks up and i have to manually shut it down .
what does the BSOD say?
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Ok let me tell you why I'm asking. If you have a ton of bandwidth (I'm talking 300+ megabit down), you could actually outpace your drive's write speed. It seems less likely given you're using an SSD, but I have definitely had the issue before where my whole system locked up for a few seconds. Never got a BSOD though, and I think Steam will actually pause downloads to give your drive time to write now.
It disapears too fast to read ad i don't know where to find a log of it anywhere .
VanillaCakeIsBurning
Member
I really appreciate you picking out these parts for me. There's one thing I'm wondering about however. I noticed that for the power supply, Bluray/DVD/CD drive and the RAM that they aren't available on NCIX.com.
After looking at that assembly link you provided I'm convinced that the $50 is a pretty good value for putting all the parts together but I think that only works if I order all of the parts from them.
Is there a comparable power supply, Bluray/DVD/CD drive and RAM that you can recommend that are available on NCIX.com? I don't mind going over $1400 if necessary. I think if I can get those locked down then I can go for that assembly option which would be the best possible solution for me I think.
Again, I really appreciate the help I'm receiving here. It's really making this a smooth experience so far.
I don't have any immediate plans but I figured it would be nice to have if I want to watch Bluray movies or something later down the road. I'll keep the software note in mind as well.
It's good to hear that they're pretty reliable. If I'm buying a SSD and HDD, will they know to automatically install the OS on the SSD?
JoeyJungle
Banned
I can't believe I'm asking this, but what's a good colorimeter? I just got a new monitor
So I've had it with my Asus Maximus board the last few days. Trying to verify what is going on with this thing and why it refuses to POST has left me drained and at my wits end. I am just going to send it back to Amazon before the refund period closes and get a different brand (regardless if my new RAM works or not tonight). The Asus forums are rife with a massive thread detailing users experiencing the same issues as me.
Any thoughts on the Gigabyte G1 Z170 Gaming 7? I have a Gigabyte 970GTX and am unsure if there is ANY perks to staying within brand on use. That or MSI are my current considerations for my i7-6700k chip.
Also, when I swap the Mobo should I reinstall Win 10 all over again? I only just installed it 2 weeks back with the Asus mobo, so my OEM key is already used, but I assume Windows will require me to jump through hoops to prove that it is the same PC if I keep the current installation. Just unsure what to anticipate or what is recommended when swapping mobo on Win 10(I shouldn't have to purchase ANOTHER OEM key right??)
Finally, how problematic will it be to use different branded DDR4 RAM? Assuming my ASUS board is at fault for all my POST-less boot issues and not the RAM, I would now have a set of Kingston and Corsair(with similar timings 2666 vs 3000) that would be nice to pair together in the Mobo, but I fear problems with multiple brands.
Love to hear thoughts and sorry for the long rant. Sorry Asus, two-weeks of barely any use and the extreme errors I have gotten out of the blue are enough!!!
Any thoughts on the Gigabyte G1 Z170 Gaming 7? I have a Gigabyte 970GTX and am unsure if there is ANY perks to staying within brand on use. That or MSI are my current considerations for my i7-6700k chip.
Also, when I swap the Mobo should I reinstall Win 10 all over again? I only just installed it 2 weeks back with the Asus mobo, so my OEM key is already used, but I assume Windows will require me to jump through hoops to prove that it is the same PC if I keep the current installation. Just unsure what to anticipate or what is recommended when swapping mobo on Win 10(I shouldn't have to purchase ANOTHER OEM key right??)
Finally, how problematic will it be to use different branded DDR4 RAM? Assuming my ASUS board is at fault for all my POST-less boot issues and not the RAM, I would now have a set of Kingston and Corsair(with similar timings 2666 vs 3000) that would be nice to pair together in the Mobo, but I fear problems with multiple brands.
Love to hear thoughts and sorry for the long rant. Sorry Asus, two-weeks of barely any use and the extreme errors I have gotten out of the blue are enough!!!
As far as this goes as long as the timings and pins/type are the same there shouldn't be a problem
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