I bought Arctic Cooling MX-4 last month and it seems very good. Easily applied and brought my temps down a couple of degrees (from some slightly sloppy Silver 5 that was applied about 18 months ago)
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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I bought Arctic Cooling MX-4 last month and it seems very good. Easily applied and brought my temps down a couple of degrees (from some slightly sloppy Silver 5 that was applied about 18 months ago)
Delicious Waffles
Member
Couple of questions from someone pretty computer illiterate looking to build for the first time:
1. Can some explain to me like I'm a 5 year old what overclocking is and if it's necessary to do, depending on what you buy?
2. Due to where I'm putting my eventual PC, I'm not going to be able to run an ethernet cable to it for the time being so I'm going to have to get a Wi-Fi adapter. What would you recommend?
3. I was looking through some builds on PCPartPicker for ideas when I stumbled on one where the builder said to get a basic 1TB hard drive for games but, if you want fast boot times, get a SSD for the OS. Basically, you install the OS on the SSD and install your games on the 1TB hard drive, correct?
Any help for this noob would be greatly appreciated.
1. Can some explain to me like I'm a 5 year old what overclocking is and if it's necessary to do, depending on what you buy?
2. Due to where I'm putting my eventual PC, I'm not going to be able to run an ethernet cable to it for the time being so I'm going to have to get a Wi-Fi adapter. What would you recommend?
3. I was looking through some builds on PCPartPicker for ideas when I stumbled on one where the builder said to get a basic 1TB hard drive for games but, if you want fast boot times, get a SSD for the OS. Basically, you install the OS on the SSD and install your games on the 1TB hard drive, correct?
Any help for this noob would be greatly appreciated.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Couple of questions from someone pretty computer illiterate looking to build for the first time:
1. Can some explain to me like I'm a 5 year old what overclocking is and if it's necessary to do, depending on what you buy?
2. Due to where I'm putting my eventual PC, I'm not going to be able to run an ethernet cable to it for the time being so I'm going to have to get a Wi-Fi adapter. What would you recommend?
3. I was looking through some builds on PCPartPicker for ideas when I stumbled on one where the builder said to get a basic 1TB hard drive for games but, if you want fast boot times, get a SSD for the OS. Basically, you install the OS on the SSD and install your games on the 1TB hard drive, correct?
Any help for this noob would be greatly appreciated.
1. Overclocking means you're increasing the frequency ("speed") of the component so it runs better than stock. It's absolutely not necessary, but can net you substantial performance increases.
2. There's a ton of them, they're all more or less the same. Depending on the placement of your router, you may want an adapter that plugs in with a cable so you can move it around (as opposed to a "dongle" style adapter that will always be plugged into the back of the PC). Just look for something that's wireless N (or AC), and make sure it supports speeds at least as much as your internet is.
3. That is something a lot of people do, yes, but I recommend a larger SSD so you can install your OS AND games so load times are super short. I only use a hard drive for video files these days.
Delicious Waffles
Member
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. I greatly appreciate the answers.
Just a follow up question if you don't mind:
If you were to overclock, wouldn't that put considerably more strain on the part, causing it to burn out faster than normal or is it built to handle such speeds?
Sleeping Lesson
Member
Happy to answer any questions, that's what the thread's for!
Theoretically yes you are shortening the lifespan of the component. In practice, however, this is not much of a concern. People who are going to overclock are probably going to replace their CPU/GPU much sooner than it will die. There are of course cases when overclocking might put a component over the edge and kill it, but such a part was defective or near the end of its life anyway.
The rule of thumb is generally that if you're getting the performance you want at stock, there's no need to overclock. Some of us like to overclock just for the hell of it, though.
Haven't seen any of those for under $200 new. The Asus will get to like $209.
The BenQ is the best choice out of all of those, IMO. I did a lot of research and the higher price of the BenQ is worth it.
I have no experience with the Korean(?) monitors, so can't comment there.
Delicious Waffles
Member
I understand. I'll look into this more if I decide to overclock.
Thing is, I've been using a MacBook Pro since 2009 so all of this is new and confusing to me. I just want to make sure I get all the right parts and everything works smoothly, during and after the building process. Just don't want to rock the boat, so to speak.
Thanks again for the answers. Really appreciate it.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
You're welcome!
When you're ready to buy, post your build in here. Depending on what hardware you're getting, you may not need to overclock at all. For example, people getting Skylake i7 processors really won't benefit in the slightest when it comes to 99% of games.
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
Will directx 12 result in significant improvements on games utilizing it? How much percent in performance increase?
Delicious Waffles
Member
I think I will, thanks.
I have a friend that's supposed to help me pick out parts, which I'd get at a Microcenter nearby, and help build it but he's a bit of a scatterbrain so I don't know when he'll get around to it. That's why I've been looking at random builds on PCPartPicker, trying to get ideas. I got a decent sized budget ($1000-$1250) so there's a lot to choose from for the uninformed, haha.
Sleeping Lesson
Member
That budget will go FAR if you have a Microcenter to shop at. They consistently have the best prices on processors, and often have great deals on video cards.
Does a DX12 supported game even exist yet to properly answer?
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
I think so but not any major game. I am just curious to find out if the improvements will be marginal or significant
Delicious Waffles
Member
If you don't mind me asking, with that budget and where I'm shopping, if you were to build something from the ground up, what would you choose?
The only things I've bought (or plan on buying myself) were the keyboard, mouse, speakers, and monitor.
I'm just overwhelmed at this point so any focus on a particular build would be great.
opticalmace
Member
If you fill in the survey in the OP it'll be easier to come up with something.
DizzyCaffeine
Member
I'm planning a new build, and I really want to reuse some parts to cut down on costs. I have a Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W PSU that I've been using since 2011 with zero problems. Is it a bad idea to reuse it?
Sleeping Lesson
Member
I hear ya, there's so many parts with so many manufacturers and ambiguous product names.
On a high-level, if your primary goal for building is gaming, I would aim for a 980ti and a Skylake i5 CPU. Might be able to fit an i7 in there depending on whether or not you need to buy other certain things, but it's not necessary. 700 watt PSU, ~$100 motherboard, ~$50 case, 8 or 16 GB of DDR4 ram. You'll be able to find hundreds of builds that match this description on PCPartPicker.
For a budget I was thinking around the $500-$600 as soft maximum. Obviously would like to do it for less but I could be swayed to go even a little higher if there was a definite value in doing so.
Delicious Waffles
Member
Good thinking!
Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case / HDD (Hard Drive)
Current specs? Mid-2009 MacBook Pro. Pretty much, nothing. Clean slate!
Budget: Price Range + Country
$1000 - $1250. USA.
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, Streaming games in HD, 3D/Model work (and what program), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
Mainly gaming, from indie to AAA, and general usage.
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
Monitor I've been looking at is the ASUS VG248QE 24" 1080p 144Hz 3D Gaming LED Monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you?
I really don't know, game wise. I'm looking to run anything at around medium to high. As long as everything runs smoothly, I'm happy.
Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
I have no parts so yeah, buying everything new.
When will you build?: Do you have a deadline?
I want to actually build it in two weeks (2/13) since I start a week off then. Want to break it in.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)
I'm not sure.
-----------
Just a side note: I'm planning on buying everything at a local Microcenter. Also, I need an OS. I don't want to go the code/key route.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Threw this together $80 of it is the OS keep that in mind. Let me know what you think.
Hands of Stone
Member
How common is it for mobos to come with an out of date bios and having to manually update it? Found one for a decent price but I'd rather get a newer/pricier one if it means bypassing that hassle altogether.
It is very common for a motherboard's BIOS to be out of date. I don't think a single motherboard I have ever bought has been at the current BIOS revision, usually it is at least one behind. I had to update my new motherboard's BIOS to a crashing issue when navigating the BIOS.
Updating bios on new mobos is painless. For asus mobos you can drop the bios file anywhere on your hdd, navigate to it from the flash utility in the bios and update. Two minutes of work.
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
Delicious Waffles
Member
Thanks for this but, if possible, is there anyway to possibly select parts that could all be found at Microcenter? I have one near me so I'd like to just go there, pick everything up, and get started. Thanks again.
Mad Season
Banned
Ok all... I think I want to upgrade my systems a bit, now that taxes are coming in a week. Looking for advice please on what to upgrade.
Upgrades will be soley for gaming and potential twitch streaming. For example, streaming BF4 on twitch on same PC as I am playing on, has it chug a bit.
Current System Specs
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS GENE Z IV
System RAM: ( G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR)
Video Card: EVGA GTX 980 SC
CPU: i5 2500k (overclocked to 4.5ghz)
HD: SSD
Monitor: 24" BENQ
My guess is to upgrade the motherboard, ram and cpu. Based on the above and what I want to do, I imagine I should move to i7? Please assist
Upgrades will be soley for gaming and potential twitch streaming. For example, streaming BF4 on twitch on same PC as I am playing on, has it chug a bit.
Current System Specs
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS GENE Z IV
System RAM: ( G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR)
Video Card: EVGA GTX 980 SC
CPU: i5 2500k (overclocked to 4.5ghz)
HD: SSD
Monitor: 24" BENQ
My guess is to upgrade the motherboard, ram and cpu. Based on the above and what I want to do, I imagine I should move to i7? Please assist
Looks like the only thing listed there not available at Micro Center was the Mobo, PSU, RAM and Case
I was having trouble finding a PSU and RAM on part picker so here's a direct link
http://www.microcenter.com/product/457450/TR2_Series_600_Watt_ATX_Power_Supply
http://www.microcenter.com/product/459739/16GB_2_x_8GB_DDR4-2400_PC4-19200_CL15_Desktop_Memory_Kit
Rest
adamantypants
Member
On the flipside, if you're already set up without any issues or needing features, don't go rushing to update your BIOS. It's usually an easy and painless process, but when something goes wrong, it can go really wrong.
Q
Queen of Hunting
Unconfirmed Member
im looking at getting a new monitor soon, im looking to go above 1080p native for future stuff. im in the uk so advice on some great monitors would be appreciated and a reasonable price ofcourse but am willing to pay enough
Anyone help. I checked monitors above 1080p in op n they arebt avaliable in uk
Anyone have any experience with Adata RAM? Never heard of them, but the price is good. Also looking at the Kingston HyperX Fury but it's more costly, even with a price match. :c
Delicious Waffles
Member
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it.
What's the word on ram mhz? I'm going with the Asus Z97-E, any reason to go 2400?
It's not exactly a clear cut percentage increase when it comes to performance. Many things have to be taken into account in regards to the game engine, coding, optimizations, drivers, hardware support, and whatnot. DX12 provides a better framework for developers to produce more efficient games, but it's still largely dependent on various factors. Simply making a game with DX12 doesn't necessarily mean it's automatically better than DX11.1. Early on some DX11 games were crap and didn't run as well as some games in DX9 mode, I'm sure. As developers learn more about how to best make use of DX12, better looking and higher performing games will become more efficient than older games.
Antec has marketed a few different versions of the Earthwatts 650 watt model. Can you tell me which one you have? The label on the side of the power supply will be useful, if you can take a picture of it. As far as I can tell, there were several different EA-650 models with 80 plus/bronze/gold/platinum level power efficiency ratings.
Speaking in general it should be just fine to reuse your existing power supply. It doesn't seem like any of them were particularly bad in any way.
For right now, if you could spend perhaps $50 more, you would be at the perfect range to look for a GTX 980 Ti or AMD Fury X. We tend to recommend the former rather than the latter. Seeing as you have until April, you may want to wait for Nvidia's new Pascal line of graphics cards, perhaps more news will be available about the launch of those new models by then and you may want to hold off getting a graphics card.
Hard to say, it's up to the manufacturer and retailer for how often they receive new stock and refresh their old stock. If you have concerns about a specific model, look up recent user reviews to see if they mention what BIOS revision the motherboard comes with. Contacting the retailer to ask what BIOS revision the motherboard comes with is also an option.
Last time I checked, you were looking at a Z97 motherboard. You shouldn't run into any processor incompatibilities due to the BIOS being too old. It will be compatible out of the box with any compatible socket 1150 processor. Otherwise, updating the BIOS yourself is a slight hassle but not that big of a deal as long as you follow the steps.
The price is great, I'd jump on that deal. ADATA is generally trustworthy, I've recommended them in the past.
DDR3 performance doesn't matter too greatly as it's generally maybe only a 5~10% performance improvement in some specific situations, but occasionally there will be the odd game that does get influenced by RAM performance. Just in case you're wondering, 2133MHz isn't too far behind 2400MHz, so don't fret too much about the numbers or think that you absolutely need 2400MHz. Honestly for Z97 motherboards I'll recommend anything from 1866MHz to 2400MHz as long as the price is right and reviews/reliability is good.
Hey no problem but I would suggest getting a second opinion it's always good to have at least 1 with a large investment like that I can guarantee all the parts work together but someone might be able to give you a suggestion that you would like more.
Wowfunhappy
Member
Speaking of RAM speeds, I know it's not important for DDR3, but does it matter more for DDR4?
I currently have a single stick of 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz. I think RAM is going to be the next thing I upgrade. Should I get more 2133Mhz RAM, or should I replace the existing 8GB stick with a faster one?
(Don't want to get two 4gb sticks; I eventually plan to max out all the slots in this motherboard for 32GB. Eventually, as in, six years from now)
I currently have a single stick of 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz. I think RAM is going to be the next thing I upgrade. Should I get more 2133Mhz RAM, or should I replace the existing 8GB stick with a faster one?
(Don't want to get two 4gb sticks; I eventually plan to max out all the slots in this motherboard for 32GB. Eventually, as in, six years from now)
CraigerGamer
Member
Slick Deals has a Zotac GTX 970 on sale for $254.99. Do they get much cheaper than this?
That is a really good deal I'de jump on it if you are intending to buy a 970
DizzyCaffeine
Member
Oh wow, using my visa card it comes down to $250.49 and, best of all, no tax! I think I might bite on this, thanks for the heads up.
CraigerGamer
Member
I am glad to help.
Using this deal, how does this look? (Using Amazon Prime mostly for free shipping)
The Mobo is a combo with the i5-6600k
Pretty good machine for the price I think. Any suggestions on a case?
CraigerGamer
Member
DP. Sorry.
For air cooling: You really can't go wrong with the Cooler Master 212 Evo. It's the best selling(?) direct heatsink mount currently, and I was shocked at how well it kept my i7-6700k cool. Usually runs in the $30USD range.
For Radiated Water cooling: The Corsair H100i/series is a solid(and also popular choice). I just added one to my i7 build and it looks great and performs well(though surprisingly not all that much better than the 212 Evo!) Usually runs for ~$100-$110USD
Hands of Stone
Member
I'll definitely keep this advice in mind, thanks fellas.
Haha,I keep flip flopping between the 4590 ($170) and 4690K ($230). I sent in my defective mobo and I got Amazon credit for $75 so whereas before I was thinking the bundles for the 4560K was gonna be a bit too much ($330 or around there about), I'm basically getting a free mobo. I wanna order today too since payday is Friday and I'll be going straight to Micro Center.
Got the same card on a similar deal, runs beastly. Enjoy!
Pie and Beans
Look for me on the local news, I'll be the guy arrested for trying to burn down a Nintendo exec's house.
Ello PC Build GAF. I finished my new build at the start of this year and is handling like a dream so much help from those here that helped me pick stuff. As such however, my girlfriend has inherited my old PC and it needs some upgrades of its own for her uses.
The main point of contention is CPU heat as she wants to do some video render at some point and shit is running too hot at idle right now for comfort (40+). I've installed a big honking heatsink Deepcool Gammaxx 400 in my new rig and I'm familiar with how to install those, but theyve just gone mysteriously completely out of stock here in the UK.
Always wary of CPU coolers and them being TOO big for RAM and indeed even the case, so I need one to fit in this case:
Xigmatek Asgard - (185(W) x 475(D) x 408(H) mm, 0.6mm thickness SGCC)
and preferably not cause RAM slot problems. Motherboard is a H55M-S so standard Intel LGA1156.
Budget is £26 or a bit more.
Also either the cases built in front fan or a fan on my old graphics card (have ruled out CPU fan and back fan) causes an awful whirring on startup which eases off and seems fine for the rest of use.
The main point of contention is CPU heat as she wants to do some video render at some point and shit is running too hot at idle right now for comfort (40+). I've installed a big honking heatsink Deepcool Gammaxx 400 in my new rig and I'm familiar with how to install those, but theyve just gone mysteriously completely out of stock here in the UK.
Always wary of CPU coolers and them being TOO big for RAM and indeed even the case, so I need one to fit in this case:
Xigmatek Asgard - (185(W) x 475(D) x 408(H) mm, 0.6mm thickness SGCC)
and preferably not cause RAM slot problems. Motherboard is a H55M-S so standard Intel LGA1156.
Budget is £26 or a bit more.
Also either the cases built in front fan or a fan on my old graphics card (have ruled out CPU fan and back fan) causes an awful whirring on startup which eases off and seems fine for the rest of use.
Hands of Stone
Member
Finally decided on this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7807IK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Now to find a decent deal on another SSD.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K7807IK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Now to find a decent deal on another SSD.
Getting my a new PC for my birthday and I need some advice. It will primarily be used for gaming at 1080p or 720p. I don't plan on doing any overclocking. The parts I can re-use are a 6870 gpu, 4gb ddr3-1333 ram, and a 500gb harddrive. No OS is required because I can get it free through my university, and will be using the 50$ assembly and testing from NCIX. I am also Canadian, so prices are a little rough.
The budget for the build is a strict 900$ including taxes (13% HST), 50$ assembly/testing, and S/H. Which gives an effective budget of 750$ CAN.
This leaves me with several options that I've looked into.
(all builds using the same 500W PSU / Case)
1. core-i3 6100 skylake build, z170 mobo, with 8gb ram, a 120gb SSD, and an r7 370 2gb. (~$754)
1.1. same as above, with 4gb ram, no ssd, and a r9 380. (~$772)
1.2. core-i3 6100, h170 mobo, 8gb ram, 120gb ssd, r9 380 2gb (~$769)
2. core-i5 6500 with 8gb ram, z170 mobo, 120gb SSD, and reuse my 6870 video card (~$704)
3. amd 8320, re-use my 4gb ddr3-133 ram, 120gb ssd, r9 380 2gb (~$720)
3.1. same as above but with additional 4gb ram (~$750)
I know the 370 is an upgrade over the 6870, but it's not too substantial of one. The 380 would be a substantial upgrade, but it's a stretch to get it into an i3-6100 build at this budget. I could save about 30$ on the skylake builds by getting a cheaper H170(~120$) motherboard instead of a z170(~$150).
Would greatly appreciate any input/thoughts.
The budget for the build is a strict 900$ including taxes (13% HST), 50$ assembly/testing, and S/H. Which gives an effective budget of 750$ CAN.
This leaves me with several options that I've looked into.
(all builds using the same 500W PSU / Case)
1. core-i3 6100 skylake build, z170 mobo, with 8gb ram, a 120gb SSD, and an r7 370 2gb. (~$754)
1.1. same as above, with 4gb ram, no ssd, and a r9 380. (~$772)
1.2. core-i3 6100, h170 mobo, 8gb ram, 120gb ssd, r9 380 2gb (~$769)
2. core-i5 6500 with 8gb ram, z170 mobo, 120gb SSD, and reuse my 6870 video card (~$704)
3. amd 8320, re-use my 4gb ddr3-133 ram, 120gb ssd, r9 380 2gb (~$720)
3.1. same as above but with additional 4gb ram (~$750)
I know the 370 is an upgrade over the 6870, but it's not too substantial of one. The 380 would be a substantial upgrade, but it's a stretch to get it into an i3-6100 build at this budget. I could save about 30$ on the skylake builds by getting a cheaper H170(~120$) motherboard instead of a z170(~$150).
Would greatly appreciate any input/thoughts.
opticalmace
Member
What does the used market look like? Maybe you can get a Haswell quad core on a deal, then you could get a good video card new.
Does anyone have any suggestions to this build? For 4k gaming / VR. Also specifically wanting SSD only, not separate drives for OS / games /etc.
Trying to stay at or under $3,000... open to suggestions to alternative parts that would be better or cost saving. Also i'm pretty set on the case unless someone can sell me on a different one.. really like the phanteks.
This will be going in the living room as well. So the quieter the better.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($411.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($416.49 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($689.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($689.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($186.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $3060.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-01 19:10 EST-0500
Trying to stay at or under $3,000... open to suggestions to alternative parts that would be better or cost saving. Also i'm pretty set on the case unless someone can sell me on a different one.. really like the phanteks.
This will be going in the living room as well. So the quieter the better.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($411.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($416.49 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($689.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB HYBRID Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($689.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case ($184.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($186.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $3060.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-01 19:10 EST-0500
Theonik
Member
The 6600k is much cheaper and should perform pretty similarly for applications that don't use the extra threads and run a bit cooler at similar clock speeds.
But it really depends on your usecase.
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