CraigerGamer
Member
The amount of heat and extra watts is my only issue with the card. I still went with the 390 but made sure the case had decent airflow.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Okay thank you for the help, I will try that laterI guess FurMark is still the go-to testing for GPUs?
And so I take it I made the steal I thought I did with that card? I bought it way back and purchased a 7950 for 220€ first which didn't overclock at all. Then just a week later I saw the Club3D 7970 Royal Queen for 240€, immediately bought it and exchanged the 7950. Another week later and the price went up to 280€ so I was happy
EDIT: The default voltage Afterburner shows after unlocking is 1113, could I try to set this to Royal Ace levels?
I would recommend never using FurMark ever as it is a power virus that uses your GPU in a way that no game ever will come close to and thus is fundamentally inaccurate and dangerous. Just play the games you play. Sometimes these are best as long term tests. Or run canned benchmarks in games or 3Dmark.
As for your voltage, I would enable monitoring in your On Screen Display to make sure what it is by default while actually gaming. The old coin miners would run 7970s for many hours at a time below 1.000V, but not always at such a high clockrate as yours. So that's why I'm recommending not really going below 1.000V.
Getting close to building from scratch. My wife does Photo Editing (Lightroom) on her old MBP, but it's really chugging. It's not her livelihood but she occasionally helps out with events like weddings and stuff. So it definitely matters to her.
Looking into Skylake. Is the i7 bump worth it for Photo Editing?
Looking into Skylake. Is the i7 bump worth it for Photo Editing?
First time builder here. Been wanting to do this for a couple years but either procrastinated or just got sidetracked. Can't depend on my laptop anymore as a primary PC. My goal is to build a solid Windows 7 desktop - gaming, streaming HD videos, all-purpose web/productivity, etc. I'll be starting at 1080p, but I don't know if maybe in a couple years I'd want to do 1440p (perhaps more for productivity than for gaming reasons).
Here's a tentative build from PCPartPicker w/ comments added next to each component:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($259.86 @ OutletPC) -- ordered from Jet.com w/ first-time buyer discount (~$195)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.88 @ OutletPC) -- got one for ~$15 a few months ago
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($90.88 @ OutletPC) -- my biggest area of concern/confusion
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($66.88 @ OutletPC) -- maybe I don't need 16GB to start, 8GB is $30 w/ code @ newegg now
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) -- for storage drive; I got a 240GB Seagate SSD pretty cheap last year that I'll use for boot/OS
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg) -- torn on R9 380 or 390; 390 a better investment for > 2-3 years?
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center) -- arbitrary pick here, thought about Corsair SPEC-02 yesterday during Amazon sale but many reviews mentioned it's cramped and makes cable mgmt difficult
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US) -- another kind of arbitrary pick, depends on GPU choice
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg) -- will probably jump on a blu-ray reader when a good sale hits, but not a priority for configuring the build
Total: $889.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 13:59 EST-0500
Not sure if 4690K is beyond my needs, but I do like the idea of overclocking in the future. As written above, choosing a motherboard is where I get lost. I mean, I understand the specs (Z97 for overclocking) and whatnot but reading reviews makes the decision more difficult. I have a USB wifi adapter for now but will probably look at adding a PCIe wifi card later on. In addition I may want to add USB 3.1 card in the future, so ATX seems the way to go for leaving room for these minor upgrades. Similarly, I'm a bit lost on cases and not sure what to look for specifically...other than making sure there's enough clearance for the Hyper 212 Plus (which has 159 mm height).
As mentioned above I'm not sure about the GPU. R9 390 certainly would be more 'future-proof' for gaming. Tom's Hardware has the R9 380 as the best choice for 'playable @ 1080p' and the R9 390 for 'playable at 1440p'. I'm willing to stretch to the 390 provided it's appropriate based on my goals/thoughts/etc.
I don't have a 1080p monitor yet - good deals seem frequent (this 23" Acer 1080P IPS monitor is on sale today for $120) so I'm not as concerned with locking that down ASAP. I do have a 1280x1024 monitor that I could use for initial setup/testing if need be. The 1280x1024 monitor will be used as a second display - combined with a 1080p screen that'll probably be enough desktop real estate for now. But, it's possible I'd jump on 1440p down the road.
Overall I'm trying not to get too bogged down in 'future-proofing', but I do want this build to provide enough juice for gaming for the next 3-4 years. I'm okay with turning down some settings to increase FPS, but perhaps not initially (which makes me lean toward the R9 390).
Thanks very much for reading, and look forward to your feedback.
Here's a tentative build from PCPartPicker w/ comments added next to each component:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($259.86 @ OutletPC) -- ordered from Jet.com w/ first-time buyer discount (~$195)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.88 @ OutletPC) -- got one for ~$15 a few months ago
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($90.88 @ OutletPC) -- my biggest area of concern/confusion
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($66.88 @ OutletPC) -- maybe I don't need 16GB to start, 8GB is $30 w/ code @ newegg now
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC) -- for storage drive; I got a 240GB Seagate SSD pretty cheap last year that I'll use for boot/OS
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg) -- torn on R9 380 or 390; 390 a better investment for > 2-3 years?
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center) -- arbitrary pick here, thought about Corsair SPEC-02 yesterday during Amazon sale but many reviews mentioned it's cramped and makes cable mgmt difficult
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US) -- another kind of arbitrary pick, depends on GPU choice
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg) -- will probably jump on a blu-ray reader when a good sale hits, but not a priority for configuring the build
Total: $889.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 13:59 EST-0500
Not sure if 4690K is beyond my needs, but I do like the idea of overclocking in the future. As written above, choosing a motherboard is where I get lost. I mean, I understand the specs (Z97 for overclocking) and whatnot but reading reviews makes the decision more difficult. I have a USB wifi adapter for now but will probably look at adding a PCIe wifi card later on. In addition I may want to add USB 3.1 card in the future, so ATX seems the way to go for leaving room for these minor upgrades. Similarly, I'm a bit lost on cases and not sure what to look for specifically...other than making sure there's enough clearance for the Hyper 212 Plus (which has 159 mm height).
As mentioned above I'm not sure about the GPU. R9 390 certainly would be more 'future-proof' for gaming. Tom's Hardware has the R9 380 as the best choice for 'playable @ 1080p' and the R9 390 for 'playable at 1440p'. I'm willing to stretch to the 390 provided it's appropriate based on my goals/thoughts/etc.
I don't have a 1080p monitor yet - good deals seem frequent (this 23" Acer 1080P IPS monitor is on sale today for $120) so I'm not as concerned with locking that down ASAP. I do have a 1280x1024 monitor that I could use for initial setup/testing if need be. The 1280x1024 monitor will be used as a second display - combined with a 1080p screen that'll probably be enough desktop real estate for now. But, it's possible I'd jump on 1440p down the road.
Overall I'm trying not to get too bogged down in 'future-proofing', but I do want this build to provide enough juice for gaming for the next 3-4 years. I'm okay with turning down some settings to increase FPS, but perhaps not initially (which makes me lean toward the R9 390).
Thanks very much for reading, and look forward to your feedback.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Interesting okay alright. I heard FurMark getting recommended every now and then but after my only time trying it with a 4850 I never tried it again because hearing the fans and seeing the temp monitor showing 102°C... I never closed any program quicker. Going by what you said I'm happy I never tried it again
And I'll dabble around then, thanks!
I guess aside from system freezes no harm can be done by undervolting through Afterburner right?There's just one odd thing, last night when I just enabled Voltage Monitoring and not Voltage Unlocking I could swear Afterburner said 0.800 while idle. I then disabled monitoring again and only just now enabled both for when I got the 1113 read-out while idle. Maybe I was just tired yesterday and the 0.800 was a fluke, I'll run a few games now and then set 1075 afterwards as a first try.
Realistically how much temp-drops could I expect?
And I'll dabble around then, thanks!
Realistically how much temp-drops could I expect?
GPU Driver crashes and possibly system freezes are the signs of instability, yes. It's possible that very extreme voltage lowering could put the chip at risk, but that's why you work gradually until you get instability and don't just try an unrealistic 1200MHz at 0.5V or something else completely irrational lol.
It will cause your GPU to use less Watts and thus less heat. I can't really say what it will do to temperature exactly but it will help.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Don't worry while I'm relatively new to the whole material I'm not going to try anything crazy here
I found out what happened with my voltage too, somehow I ticked "Force Constant Voltage" in Afterburner. And the last question I would have, any advice at what I should leave my power-level at? 0% and +20% both usually made zero difference for me.390 is radically faster. Both companies have this unusual gap, although it is slightly smaller on the AMD front now that the 380X is out. 380/380X to 390 or 960 -> 970 are massive performance leaps despite the closeness in model number.
http://tpucdn.com/reviews/Sapphire/R9_390_Nitro/images/perfrel_2560_1440.png
At any resolution it is worth getting the 390 over the lower cards if you can afford it.
Don't worry while I'm relatively new to the whole material I'm not going to try anything crazy here
I wouldn't raise Power Limit if you're undervolting, since the idea is to use less power. The only reason you do so on the Nano is to bypass its artificial wattage cap.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Ah interesting, got it, thanks for all the help I felt I learned quite a bit thanks to you
Ah interesting, got it, thanks for all the help I felt I learned quite a bit thanks to you
Here's my advice, use a moderate over volt like 20-30mV.
Max out power limit. If you hit the power limit fast, then back off the voltage.
Increase clocks and test with some Unigene Heaven and some games. Find max clocks.
If temperatures are less than 80c (how hot do these run??) then it's all good. Otherwise back off clocks and voltage a little until temps are in control.
The only limiting factor is temps, nothing is dangerous here.
There's no point backing off if temps are fine and you aren't hitting the power limit.
Doesn't the RVZ02 fit full size GPUs? Why the Nano? The ITX cards are gimped.
Yea, that's kind of my reasoning as well. Perhaps the 970 is worth considering, too. However, the 390 comes at a similar price (plus 8 GB VRAM, which may not be useful at 1080p but leaves the door slightly more ajar for higher res).
I believe Skyfireblaze is happy with his current performance but just wants to reduce temps and fan noise. The only way to do both is to undervolt. I think you're giving overclocking advice.
That's why I'd favour the 390 too, especially if you want 3 years. Similar price, slightly higher performance on average, and low risk of running into VRAM limitations (it's likely to run out of juice before 8GB, but can benefit from games that use anything over 3.5 or 4GB).
Skyfireblaze
Member
Exactly I'm 100% happy with my 175mhz overclock at stock voltage and it was super stable but the noise was getting a bit annoying, still thanks!
I thought I found my happy value of 1.131 V which gave me 72°C locked and low noise at 94% usage in BnS but it froze after 10 minutes. Trying 1.138 V now, default seems to be 1.163 V.
BorntoPlay
Member
i recently got a GTX 970 for $236, i'm tired of waiting...
BorntoPlay
Member
You are wrong, they recomend the Nvidia GeForce GTX 970 for "Maxed-Out" graphics, the R9 380 is only qualified as "playable" for 1080p...
PD: sorry for the double post...
After orignally looking into building a new PC in January (Thanks for the info gals and guys!), I did some research, read the thread some more, and have decided to bite the bullet tonight.
Here's the build I have. It's mainly for games (XCOM2 ), and I don't plan on OCing. I wan't sure between the i3 and the i5, but I figured I'd be a bit more future proof and go with an i5.
The video card is on sale, which is nice. Otherwise, I was eyeing a R9 380. I figure that if I go for a 380, I might have to get more than a 500w psu, but I don't know much about these things.
The SSD and the case I picked because of the favorable reviews, but everything in that list can be changed, so if anyone has opinions, please let me know!
My goal would be to pay the least amount possible, while keeping the micro atx form factor, the i5, a SSD and a wireless card.
[PCPartPicker part list](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/nwd6TW) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/nwd6TW/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54460) | $259.10 @ Vuugo
**Motherboard** | [ASRock H81M-DGS R2.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-h81mdgsr20) | $53.00 @ Vuugo
**Memory** | [Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/team-memory-ted38g1600c1101) | $45.98 @ Newegg Canada
**Storage** | [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam) | $118.98 @ DirectCanada
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42966kr) | $238.99 @ NCIX
**Case** | [Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-nse200kkn1) | $47.95 @ Vuugo
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100w10500kr) | $49.99 @ NCIX
**Wireless Network Adapter** | [TP-Link TL-WN781ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/tp-link-wireless-network-card-tlwn781nd) | $15.99 @ Canada Computers
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.98
| Mail-in rebates | -$70.00
| **Total** | **$829.98**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-02-10 15:49 EST-0500 |
Here's the build I have. It's mainly for games (XCOM2
), and I don't plan on OCing. I wan't sure between the i3 and the i5, but I figured I'd be a bit more future proof and go with an i5. The video card is on sale, which is nice. Otherwise, I was eyeing a R9 380. I figure that if I go for a 380, I might have to get more than a 500w psu, but I don't know much about these things.
The SSD and the case I picked because of the favorable reviews, but everything in that list can be changed, so if anyone has opinions, please let me know!
My goal would be to pay the least amount possible, while keeping the micro atx form factor, the i5, a SSD and a wireless card.
[PCPartPicker part list](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/nwd6TW) / [Price breakdown by merchant](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/nwd6TW/by_merchant/)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646i54460) | $259.10 @ Vuugo
**Motherboard** | [ASRock H81M-DGS R2.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/asrock-motherboard-h81mdgsr20) | $53.00 @ Vuugo
**Memory** | [Team Elite 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/team-memory-ted38g1600c1101) | $45.98 @ Newegg Canada
**Storage** | [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e250bam) | $118.98 @ DirectCanada
**Video Card** | [EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42966kr) | $238.99 @ NCIX
**Case** | [Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-nse200kkn1) | $47.95 @ Vuugo
**Power Supply** | [EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100w10500kr) | $49.99 @ NCIX
**Wireless Network Adapter** | [TP-Link TL-WN781ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter](http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/tp-link-wireless-network-card-tlwn781nd) | $15.99 @ Canada Computers
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.98
| Mail-in rebates | -$70.00
| **Total** | **$829.98**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2016-02-10 15:49 EST-0500 |
Uh...that's exactly what I said:
I didn't say, "Best choice for 'maxed out @ 1080p'".
BorntoPlay
Member
oh sorry, i got it wrong, my mistake...
Hey guys, so my mac mini is no longer doing the business for me, so I'm thinking of building a new PC. I will mostly be using it for some heavy Photoshop work, Zbrush and some light 3D work, and of course some gaming at 1080p would be nice. I will be using the second SSD as a scratch disk, though I'm not sure if I will actually need it with 32gb ram.
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor £299.99
Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler £67.98
Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard £108.99
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 Memory £178.54
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £62.99
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £49.65
Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply £79.99
MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card £276.98
£1125.11
I already bought the Phanteks Enthoo Pro case, and I have Windows 7 from my old PC. The extra rendering performance of the 980ti is tempting, but don't really want to pull the trigger on a 980ti with Pascal on the horizon; I can probably take the hit from the 970 when I decide to upgrade, and the 970 should be good enough for what I want to do at the moment. Thoughts? Shall I pull the trigger?
Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor £299.99
Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler £67.98
Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard £108.99
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 Memory £178.54
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £62.99
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £49.65
Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply £79.99
MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card £276.98
£1125.11
I already bought the Phanteks Enthoo Pro case, and I have Windows 7 from my old PC. The extra rendering performance of the 980ti is tempting, but don't really want to pull the trigger on a 980ti with Pascal on the horizon; I can probably take the hit from the 970 when I decide to upgrade, and the 970 should be good enough for what I want to do at the moment. Thoughts? Shall I pull the trigger?
Not seeing any obvious issues. I think 32gb of ram is a bit extreme even for heavy photoshop work but you know your needs on that better than I do. Also why not just get 1 SSD instead of 2? It should be cheaper per GB to do that.
Holy crap, look at this watercooled build in the Ncase M1. Freaking amazing.
http://youtu.be/JI2P1AYCEpU
http://youtu.be/JI2P1AYCEpU
D
Deleted member 325805
Unconfirmed Member
I'm looking for advice on an audio solution. I'm currently using a Creative XFI XtremeGamer sound card which is still good but it's 10+ years old and Creative told me directly it's not being fully supported any more and as such I'm having some issues with Windows 10 (some popping and mic noise in certain games). Using on board is not an option, while the sound is acceptable the mic quality is 10x worse. I'm looking for something in the £50ish price range, are there other options to a hardware sound card? If not what's a good, modern card being fully supported by the developer? I'm using a Sennheiser PC161 headset.
bobawesome
Member
To those of you with the Node 202, how's the build quality? I'm a little worried about my order after reading reviews where the tabs have broken off.
Hey guys/gals. Very much a computer newbie (I have seen the inside of my old PC a few times and helped a friend install a video card, but that's it) but I need a new PC for some school stuff and figured "why not make it a decent gaming PC while I'm at it"? So I did a quick Google Search and found this article regarding "best gaming desktop under $1000". Around $1000 is my budget, give or take a few hundred bucks.
The full article is at the end of the post, but here's the components.
Case Corsair Carbide Series Black 300R Mid-Tower
Processor Intel Core i7-4790K Quad-Core
Motherboard MSI ATX Z97 DDR3 2400 LGA 1150
Video Card Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 4GB
RAM Crucial 8GB Single
Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 750W B1 80+ BRONZE
Hard Drive Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache
CD Drive Asus 24x DVD-RW
Total Cost: $1030.70
Now, this would require self-assembly, but it sounds like I'd be saving myself about $300-$500 from something pre-assembled. I'm a reasonably intelligent person who can follow instructions -- could I probably do this myself with some YouTube help?
And yeah, I know I'd still need a keyboard/mouse, and an operating system (I have a monitor), and that's fine, I could dish out the extra dough for that.
My basic question is -- Is this a good setup and price? And how likely is it that I could do this myself with no experience?
Thanks for your feedback, guys.
PS-- Here's the full article
http://pcbuildsonabudget.com/best-gaming-pc-build-for-under-1000-dollars
Some of those parts aren't exactly the best choice, and depending on current pricing there's quite a few other choices to consider. In any case, here's a $1000 build for the best current pricing:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($86.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($66.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 390 8GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($274.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1008.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 21:42 EST-0500
Compared to the parts list from your link, mine includes a 250GB SSD, aftermarket CPU cooler capable of moderate overclocking, twice as much RAM, a slightly more cost-effective graphics card at about the same performance level as the GTX 970, and the newer and better B2 model power supply of the same brand. The case I picked is a step down from the 300R but still quite decent and will meet your needs just fine.
Yes, I would say that building a PC is not too difficult as long as you follow guides, even if you have no experience. If you have any questions about putting it together, you can always ask in this thread as well.
You can try the subreddit for windows licenses, or the Neogaf B/S/T thread. Here's my disclaimer on cheap Windows licenses from reddit:
Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around $15 USD or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for a bit more. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. The 7/8/8.1 keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10, but confirm with the seller to be sure, of course.
If convenient for you, you could resell the GTX 970 or 980 Ti whenever Pascal does launch. It seems a bit weird to have two Samsung SSDs of different capacities, and I wonder if 32GB is necessary, but I have no experience with 3D modelling. I would think that light 3D work doesn't need that much, though.
Do you plan to overclock? If not then the Noctua cooler is kinda overkill, but it is very effective as a quiet air cooler that can handle a lot of heat.
electroflame
Member
I've been following the thread for a while, but haven't gotten to the point where I need an upgrade until recently. I've never built a PC from scratch, but I've basically done everything required at some point (bar installing a CPU and CPU cooler). My current PC's processor is getting a bit too slow for my liking (i7-3770, non-K) in gaming/work, so I'm looking to upgrade. I'm currently on a heavily modified Dell that I've had for years, so I'm looking at a completely new machine, minus the graphics card.
Here's what I've got so far:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($403.11 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.64 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($7.51 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: EVGA Micro 2 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($257.51 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($123.61 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.73 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($107.48 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1027.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
The only thing I'm really iffy on is the motherboard. Ideally I'd wanted to stick with EVGA for their customer service, but a mini-ITX board seems small to me, especially with the CPU cooler potentially blocking/restricting access to the top PCI-E slot. The other motherboards they have for the 5820k's socket are E-ATX, which don't seem to be compatible with the Define 5 case.
I do plan on overclocking the 5820k to help make up for the 3.3GHz stock clock (somewhere around 4.0 would be my target) so I'm not entirely sure what I'd need for that.
I should mention that I currently use a sound card (a really old Creative one) but I'm kind of hoping I can get by without one now, as Creative's driver support is atrocious and I'd rather not deal with it (if I can get decent audio quality off the motherboard). My audio's currently hooked up via an optical cable to my reciever, so I'd at least need an optical connection on the motherboard.
I guess I'm really just looking for suggestions on what I can improve here, specifically the motherboard. My budget would be somewhere around $1,000, but that's not set in stone. I rarely do a full machine upgrade, so it's fine by me to go over a bit here, if needed.
Here's what I've got so far:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($403.11 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($31.64 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($7.51 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: EVGA Micro 2 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($257.51 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($123.61 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.73 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($107.48 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1027.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
The only thing I'm really iffy on is the motherboard. Ideally I'd wanted to stick with EVGA for their customer service, but a mini-ITX board seems small to me, especially with the CPU cooler potentially blocking/restricting access to the top PCI-E slot. The other motherboards they have for the 5820k's socket are E-ATX, which don't seem to be compatible with the Define 5 case.
I do plan on overclocking the 5820k to help make up for the 3.3GHz stock clock (somewhere around 4.0 would be my target) so I'm not entirely sure what I'd need for that.
I should mention that I currently use a sound card (a really old Creative one) but I'm kind of hoping I can get by without one now, as Creative's driver support is atrocious and I'd rather not deal with it (if I can get decent audio quality off the motherboard). My audio's currently hooked up via an optical cable to my reciever, so I'd at least need an optical connection on the motherboard.
I guess I'm really just looking for suggestions on what I can improve here, specifically the motherboard. My budget would be somewhere around $1,000, but that's not set in stone. I rarely do a full machine upgrade, so it's fine by me to go over a bit here, if needed.
IF this is true, then your 2500K won't be obsolete for some time. At least I'm not sure there are many games where an overclocked 2500K would be considered obsolete. That doesn't mean that new processors aren't better and don't provide a smoother gaming experience, though.
All three brands are quite trustworthy when it comes to SSDs. The Samsung 850 Evo represents some of the best performance for money, and so does the Crucial BX100/MX100/MX200. The Crucial BX200 is a bit of a disappointment because it's not an improvement over the BX100 in terms of performance, but it is priced somewhat enticingly low if you find out that your budget just can't fit the slightly higher end Samsung and Crucial models. As far as I know, most of Sandisk's offerings are fairly solid but perform somewhat less well compared to Crucial and Samsung's higher end models.
At a similar price range, I can recommend the MSI Z97 PC Mate ($87 after $10 rebate). Quite popular and has a lot of reviews, most of which are positive. That Gigabyte model you chose as a placeholder isn't bad either, both are decent entry level Z97 motherboards that should meet your needs just fine. Higher end motherboards come with more features, but you're not likely to need them if you can't name it.
The Corsair 200R is a nice low priced case as well, $45 is hard to beat and it covers all of the basics, including having enough room for the Hyper 212 Plus cooler. As cases have aesthetic and subjective value, you could look for others if you like. Do you have any preference for certain aesthetics or features like side windows, certain colors, or perhaps noise-muffling design?
A decent i5 processor is probably more than enough for her needs. As far as the differences between i5 and i7 processors go in terms of productivity applications, the i7 processors can have an edge in terms of how long it takes to do certain tasks, but it's not as if the i5 processors are horribly unsuitable. Both Skylake i5 and i7 processor lines are all quad core processors. The main difference is that the i7 has hyperthreading, which allows the quad core processor to act like it has 8 cores and process data a bit faster in certain situations.
This review article comparing Photoshop and Lightroom performance is for the older 4th generation Intel processors, but it illustrates the same differences you will see between the 6th generation Intel i5 and i7 processors. The i7 can accomplish the same task as the i5 but shave off some seconds here and there. As you said, photo editing is not her livelihood and it's not as though the i5 processor will feel anemic and underpowered, so I'd recommend looking into getting an i5 processor.
I'd advise not sticking with EVGA with the motherboard. Not that they're bad, but it's kind of silly to have a ill-fitting motherboard for the case and what you need. Plus, it's somewhat expensive. Some of your other choices can be swapped out for better priced alternatives. This is what I recommend:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($374.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI X99A SLI PLUS ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($211.06 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $906.01
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 22:42 EST-0500
All of this offers equal or better performance as your initial parts list, but for a lower price. Reviews for the motherboard, RAM, and power supply are very solid and largely positive. The Phanteks CPU cooler is larger than the 212 Evo and should be better able to accommodate the i7 5820K's heat. There's not much corner cutting here in terms of parts quality. I included the graphics card in there to show you that PCPartPicker confirms it will be compatible, and the motherboard includes optical S/PDIF support.
Hey, thanks for the reply. I've also come across that MSI board - seems comparable to the Gigabyte and a little cheaper. My other options seem to be:
ASRock Z97 Pro3, $100 - $20 rebate
ASRock Pro4, $113 - $10 rebate
ASRock Anniversary, $95 - $10 rebate
ASRock Fatal1ty, $130 - $20 rebate
Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3P, $90 (similar to the Z97-HD3 I linked, but has M.2 and one additional USB 3.0 header)
MSI Z97S SLI Krait, $130 - $10 rebate
That's mainly from filtering results on Newegg. I agree that I won't really utilize features of more expensive mobos (extra USB/SATA ports, extreme overclocking, more PCIe slots, etc.). At this point it feels like a crapshoot, but I don't know if there are other factors or differences between the manufacturers/models that I'm overlooking (probably not?).
Regarding the case, yea the 200R seems like a solid all-around budget case. Sadly just missed a deal on it, and it's $60+ other than at Micro Center ($45 + ~$17 shipping). I've looked around and tbh don't really see much else that is comparable in that range other than the Corsair Spec-01, 02, and 03. However, they don't appear to have enough clearance for the 159mm tall Hyper 212 Plus (max cooler heights 150mm/157mm/157mm, respectively, from Corsair product pages).
It would be nice to have a window, perhaps like the NZXT S340, but that's not essential. I'm not too picky with aesthetics otherwise, and I haven't researched noise muffling options/pricing. I do expect some noise with the build, hoping it's not unreasonable for the case price. If there are other similar options in the ~$60 range I'd consider them. There some are < $45 cases that are older, but the front USB ports are 2.0 (minor preference for 3.0). I'm not sure if there are any advantages to what newer cases offer compared to models that are 2+ years old (like the 200R).
Thanks again! (sorry for all the edits)
Thanks! I appreciate the advice and link.
Anybody here have personal experience with this motherboard?
Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H110 Micro ATX DDR4 Motherboard GA-H110M-A
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0165YUDTM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I've looked through the reviews everywhere and am still unsure of whether to go with it. I'm just looking for a good bang for your buck Micro ATX motherboard that won't cost me a lot more money for stuff I won't end up using. I'll only be using one GPU, two memory sticks, won't be OCing, etc.
How big a deal is it that the board only has one header for a case fan? I haven't even begun to look into cases yet but I imagine most people want to hook up more than one. Would simply using a fan splitter be sufficient as a work around?
Gigabyte LGA1151 Intel H110 Micro ATX DDR4 Motherboard GA-H110M-A
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0165YUDTM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I've looked through the reviews everywhere and am still unsure of whether to go with it. I'm just looking for a good bang for your buck Micro ATX motherboard that won't cost me a lot more money for stuff I won't end up using. I'll only be using one GPU, two memory sticks, won't be OCing, etc.
How big a deal is it that the board only has one header for a case fan? I haven't even begun to look into cases yet but I imagine most people want to hook up more than one. Would simply using a fan splitter be sufficient as a work around?
The ASRock Pro3 is decently cheap and appears to be more or less on par with the MSI PC Mate and Gigabyte HD3, just with fewer overall reviews. The Pro4 is a tiny step up from the Pro3 but at $105 is a bit expensive, it used to be in the $80~90 range in the past. The ASRock Anniversary is kind of barebones compared to the other motherboards, haven't really considered it and I don't think I'd pick it over the MSI PC Mate or Gigabyte HD3. The ASRock Fatality and MSI Z97S SLI Krait have good reviews and are a decent step up as a slightly higher end models, but I'm not sure it's worth it at the prices they're at. The Gigabyte HD3P is cheap, but I kinda doubt you'd be using the M.2 slot and the extra USB 3.0 header, you'd only need that if your case has more than two frontal USB 3.0 ports. It seems that the price of Z97 motherboards might be going up as some are around $10~30 more expensive than they used to be, at least from what I remember. I wonder if they're starting to stop production of Z97 motherboards.
Cases other than the Corsair 200R in a similar price range I usually end up recommending are the NZXT Source 210 Elite ($42~44), Bitfenix Comrade ($48~60). In the $60+ range there's the Corsair 300R ($60 after $10 rebate) and the NZXT S340 cases ($65~89). You might be interested in the Fractal Define R4, two of which are at an all time low of $65. They're somewhat older designs (still have USB 3.0) but are quite solid in terms of build quality and offer nice noise suppression/muffling due to soundproofing foam lining the interior of the case. There's also the NZXT H230 ($60~65) which is their noise-muffling case, but I don't know how well it stacks up the Fractal's lineup of Define noise-suppressing cases.
As far as I know, there haven't been any new cases released in the last while that are under $70 and worth looking at. There is the fairly recent Fractal Define S which I really like, but that's closer to $80~90 at the moment.
Do you absolutely need to spend as little as possible? I'd think paying a bit more for something more full-featured would be better so you don't feel hindered in the future by limited options and lack of expandability. A fan splitter will work, but depending on what case you have, it might be annoying having to route cables around into a splitter going into a single fan header.
Honestly, no. I already have a bad feeling about the motherboard and would feel silly spending close to a buck on the whole thing only to be disappointed by the motherboard. I think you probably woke me up on this one and I'll move on to looking for something I'd be a little more comfortable buying.
Well, what parts are you thinking of buying and what do you already have? How much do you have left to spend? I think I'd suggest a B150 or H170 motherboard for you, depending on what you're going to go with.
Hey PC GAF, as a tech noob I was hoping you could help me out here.
My ex (then boyfriend) built me a gaming pc about 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's about time I upgrade. Problem is I'm kind of lost where I should start and well, I can't really call my ex again and ask him what to do. My current specs are:
Intel Core i7-2600K @ 3.40Ghz
12GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 6950
From a little bit of googling I was able to figure out that my CPU is still decent and it's probably not worth the costs of upgrading. I'm thinking my GPU is definitely the weakest link here and I should upgrade that, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
As for budget, I really can't go over 400 unless it means I'm guaranteed to be able to play The Witcher 3 on ultra and 1080p/60fps. But somehow I think that's not possible without upgrading the rest as well anyway. What I want to know is if I can get a good performance improvement by not spending too much money. Like, is there a good budget card out there that's much better than my current GPU that would already make a huge difference? I'm not into downsampling/4k gaming or any of that anyway. I have a 120hz monitor and I would just like to be able to play games on high/ultra settings with at least 60fps again like old times .
Thanks in advance!
My ex (then boyfriend) built me a gaming pc about 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's about time I upgrade. Problem is I'm kind of lost where I should start and well, I can't really call my ex again and ask him what to do
. My current specs are:Intel Core i7-2600K @ 3.40Ghz
12GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 6950
From a little bit of googling I was able to figure out that my CPU is still decent and it's probably not worth the costs of upgrading. I'm thinking my GPU is definitely the weakest link here and I should upgrade that, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
As for budget, I really can't go over 400 unless it means I'm guaranteed to be able to play The Witcher 3 on ultra and 1080p/60fps. But somehow I think that's not possible without upgrading the rest as well anyway
. What I want to know is if I can get a good performance improvement by not spending too much money. Like, is there a good budget card out there that's much better than my current GPU that would already make a huge difference? I'm not into downsampling/4k gaming or any of that anyway. I have a 120hz monitor and I would just like to be able to play games on high/ultra settings with at least 60fps again like old times .Thanks in advance!
Overclock CPUHey PC GAF, as a tech noob I was hoping you could help me out here.
My ex (then boyfriend) built me a gaming pc about 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's about time I upgrade. Problem is I'm kind of lost where I should start and well, I can't really call my ex again and ask him what to do
Intel Core i7-2600K @ 3.40Ghz
12GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 6950
From a little bit of googling I was able to figure out that my CPU is still decent and it's probably not worth the costs of upgrading. I'm thinking my GPU is definitely the weakest link here and I should upgrade that, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
As for budget, I really can't go over 400 unless it means I'm guaranteed to be able to play The Witcher 3 on ultra and 1080p/60fps. But somehow I think that's not possible without upgrading the rest as well anyway
Thanks in advance!
Drop in a card that fits your budget like a 970
You'll definitely benefit much more from upgrading to a new GPU than anything. I'd recommend overclocking the i7, maybe add a good CPU cooler along with that and buy a GTX 970 or R9 390(X) depending on which brand you prefer or if you want to switch etcHey PC GAF, as a tech noob I was hoping you could help me out here.
My ex (then boyfriend) built me a gaming pc about 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's about time I upgrade. Problem is I'm kind of lost where I should start and well, I can't really call my ex again and ask him what to do
Intel Core i7-2600K @ 3.40Ghz
12GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 6950
From a little bit of googling I was able to figure out that my CPU is still decent and it's probably not worth the costs of upgrading. I'm thinking my GPU is definitely the weakest link here and I should upgrade that, but please correct me if I'm wrong.
As for budget, I really can't go over 400 unless it means I'm guaranteed to be able to play The Witcher 3 on ultra and 1080p/60fps. But somehow I think that's not possible without upgrading the rest as well anyway
Thanks in advance!
Thanks both, the 970 looks good. I can get it for €370 with Rise of the Tomb Raider. Can't afford it now but I'll start saving up
I'm not too sure about overclocking the cpu though... I've read guides on this before and decided to just let it go because I'm worried I'll screw it up. I don't even know how to do simple things like applying thermal paste and I've never seen my motherboard BIOS. If any of you knows a good guide that's idiot friendly, maybe I'll give it a try. I'm open to learning this kind of stuff but I don't want to risk ruining my cpu
.Multi -> 36Thanks both, the 970 looks good. I can get it for €370 with Rise of the Tomb Raider. Can't afford it now but I'll start saving up
I'm not too sure about overclocking the cpu though... I've read guides on this before and decided to just let it go because I'm worried I'll screw it up. I don't even know how to do simple things like applying thermal paste and I've never seen my motherboard BIOS. If any of you knows a good guide that's idiot friendly, maybe I'll give it a try. I'm open to learning this kind of stuff but I don't want to risk ruining my cpu
Voltage you want to read in Windows with CPU-Z at under 1.330V roughly (assuming you have a custom heatsink, otherwise something like 1.280V and 3.6Ghz - 3.8Hz (36 to 38 multiplier) would be something to aim for. Stress/load tools are in the downloads section of the OP.
http://www.techreaction.net/2011/01/04/3-step-overclocking-guide-–-sandy-bridge-v0-1beta/
I've just bought myself an Acer Predator XB270HU monitor, connected it up, calibrated it, activated Gsync and so on. Everything was perfect until I used Asus GPU Tweak to activate my normal overclock that I use for my 780. The moment I did that, though, the screen went black and won't turn back on.
If I restart the PC I can see the usual boot up screen, until Windows loads, at which point it goes black and the monitor goes into standby. If I boot into Safe Mode, it works perfectly fine.
I reconnected my old monitor and removed GPU Tweak. That didn't help. If I connect both monitors at the same time, my old monitor works fine showing half the desktop but the other monitor stays black. If I mirror them, the Acer changes to 1080p and turns on fine. But the moment I try to get it working independently, it turns off.
The heck did I do? Any ideas how to fix this?
If I restart the PC I can see the usual boot up screen, until Windows loads, at which point it goes black and the monitor goes into standby. If I boot into Safe Mode, it works perfectly fine.
I reconnected my old monitor and removed GPU Tweak. That didn't help. If I connect both monitors at the same time, my old monitor works fine showing half the desktop but the other monitor stays black. If I mirror them, the Acer changes to 1080p and turns on fine. But the moment I try to get it working independently, it turns off.
The heck did I do? Any ideas how to fix this?
I'd start with running DDU, and uninstalling ASUS GPU Tweak.
Reinstall using a single monitor and use Afterburner to OC
Some settings you can check: PCIE video over onboard, PCIE link at 100.0Mhz
Are you using a recent or thick enough DP cable? Maybe it's too long or there's a loose connection somewhere? Could be worth reseating the card/powerplugs and video cables.
I read your post before your edit and I'm sorry, it somehow slipped my mind that the OP already had a lot of info covered (I read it before I posted here, I promise!).
I only understood about 30% of your post so I'm gonna read up a lot more on OCing before I'm even going to attempt doing this
. Thanks though. Anyway my CPU temps are already at about 55C while idle so I think OCing isn't a very good idea before getting better cooling anyway . Maybe I'll play it safe and stick to just upgrading my GPU.Mr. Wonderful
Member
That article came with no context as to when we should expect this to happen, nor in what ways the processors will be slower. I don't think we can make the statement that the 2500K won't be obsolete for some time.
Fuck that, I will.
5-10% gains per tock, entire market shifting towards ULV AND Intel rescaling power targets for ALL chips = we won't be seeing any kinds of performance gains we were used to seeing. Just look at the past 6 years.
How slowly CPU performance and GPU performance has been inching is a travesty. Hopefully HBM2 will inject some life into the GPU side of things.
So my case came with a fan, and I installed another one in front, both plugged into the mobo
When I turn it on (nothing installed yet), the fan I installed starts spinning right away, but the back fan does a little spin, then stops, then starts spinning normally after like 5 seconds.
Is that normal? Ive only booted it to the 'reboot and select proper boot device' screen (it works and goes to windows install screen when I plug in the usb but I havent installed anything yet) so I dont know if a bios update or something is needed
When I turn it on (nothing installed yet), the fan I installed starts spinning right away, but the back fan does a little spin, then stops, then starts spinning normally after like 5 seconds.
Is that normal? Ive only booted it to the 'reboot and select proper boot device' screen (it works and goes to windows install screen when I plug in the usb but I havent installed anything yet) so I dont know if a bios update or something is needed
A fan self test where it spins up and then stops is pretty normal. Are you noticing it doing anything odd besides that?
Hands of Stone
Member
Any reason why a sata 3 data cable wouldn't work on a hard drive?
Also tried using it on my dvd drive and nothing.
Also tried using it on my dvd drive and nothing.
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