• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

Status
Not open for further replies.
It's supposed to depend on what kind of Windows license you have. Retail license copies can be transferred, but OEM licenses (bundled with prebuilt PCs, etc) aren't supposed to be able to be transferred. There's no harm in asking Microsoft support about it though. Of course, tell them it needs reactivation due to parts changing and that it is not a new pc.

It depends where you got windows from. If it was bundled with a store bought pc, then no (if you call). If you bought a retail, non-oem version, then yes, and you will need the key.

Thanks! It's a retail copy of Windows 7, so I'll give it a shot.
 

BorntoPlay

Member
hi guys, i have this opportunity to buy a evga gtx 970 SSC 4GB for $236, don't have a GPU right now so i'm using the Skylake iGPU... should i wait for pascal or take this offer?
 
So I'm finally trying to properly overclock my 3570k via turbo. I'm currently running Prime95 and CPU-Z reports a voltage of 1.048 V running at the default 3.6ghz.

If I got that correctly, I simply bump up the turbo multiplier in my EFI, to let's say 42 for 4.2ghz, run Prime95 again, note the new voltage and then set the voltage offset negatively so it matches 1.048 V again, right?

Afterwards I would of course check if the overclock is stable.

My temps are 65°C on the CPU side while Prime is running although my fan didn't kick up just yet.

EDIT: Okay I'm confused, after reading up on things again it seems that 1.1-1.2 V is normal for a 3570k, how come mine runs at 1.048 by default? o.o
 

inner-G

Banned
I got a DELL 1080p IPS monitor to go with my new rig and I'm underwhelmed. Coming from a 2013 iMac, the resolution just seems so low. I'm still in the return window on the monitor.

I have a 970, what do you all think about the ASUS PB278Q? It's a couple years old but looks like a good value for a WQHD IPS.

I don't play FPS or shoot for 60+ framerates, so I don't think I need g-sync.
 
I got a DELL 1080p IPS monitor to go with my new rig and I'm underwhelmed. Coming from a 2013 iMac, the resolution just seems so low. I'm still in the return window on the monitor.

I have a 970, what do you all think about the ASUS PB278Q? It's a couple years old but looks like a good value for a WQHD IPS.

I don't play FPS or shoot for 60+ framerates, so I don't think I need g-sync.

I can recommend the monitor, I had it myself, great quality.
 

sfried

Member
Is there a difference between the on, off, and auto settings for Hyperthreading? What settings should I leave it at if I do both gaming and video editing?

Also, any word on where I can get my hands on Corsair's new SF600 power supplies?
 

kuYuri

Member
Anyone out there know when Intel plans to solve the sky lake shortage ? I really want a 6700 i7 but it's basically sold out or marked up 10-20% plus shipping and at that point I may as well just get the 6700k ...

Do you live in the US? If you're near Micro Center, it's on sale for $369 until Friday, Newegg has it for $379 with a promo code today.
 
Well my overclocking endeavors were seemingly successful, 3570k running at 4.2ghz now while staying at 68°C with 1.064 V stabilized at a -0.035 V offset. I started with -0.050 and worked my way up till -0.035 which was the first value Prime 95 didn't crash at.

I assume that is a satisfying result?
 

LilJoka

Member
Well my overclocking endeavors were seemingly successful, 3570k running at 4.2ghz now while staying at 68°C with 1.064 V stabilized at a -0.035 V offset. I started with -0.050 and worked my way up till -0.035 which was the first value Prime 95 didn't crash at.

I assume that is a satisfying result?

Somewhat, but since you have a good chip and low temps, 4.3Ghz or 4.4Ghz should be within reaching distance.
Save the BIOS profile and continue pushing.

My 3770 sits at 4.23Ghz 1.09v, and will boot and be moderately stable at 4.4Ghz 1.12v. Couldnt be bothered to stabilise since i have a non-K chip, the high bclk of 107Mhz can cause lots of other problems with stability. But you should try with a K chip.
 

Oxn

Member
What are you looking at building and what purpose?

Not actually building but more of a converting

Using a z77 atx sabertooth now with a 3770k

Am going to buy a itx case. Inwin 901 to be more specific, and take the asrock z77 itx board from my htpc and put it all together in the smaller case. I just really want a smaller footprint. I dont sli anyways, and i can still use a full sized gpu and an AIO liquid cooler like i have been.
 

LilJoka

Member
Not actually building but more of a converting

Using a z77 atx sabertooth now with a 3770k

Am going to buy a itx case. Inwin 901 to be more specific, and take the asrock z77 itx board from my htpc and put it all together in the smaller case. I just really want a smaller footprint. I dont sli anyways, and i can still use a full sized gpu and an AIO liquid cooler like i have been.

Thought about going smaller? Node 304 will fit all that in a smaller case. Unless your going for the 901 for more aesthetics? I always like cramming as much power into the tiniest box nowadays.

Coolermaster 130 elite also.
 
Somewhat, but since you have a good chip and low temps, 4.3Ghz or 4.4Ghz should be within reaching distance.
Save the BIOS profile and continue pushing.

My 3770 sits at 4.23Ghz 1.09v, and will boot and be moderately stable at 4.4Ghz 1.12v. Couldnt be bothered to stabilise since i have a non-K chip, the high bclk of 107Mhz can cause lots of other problems with stability. But you should try with a K chip.

Wow okay so I assume my voltage levels are quite good? :eek: Note that I run In-place FFT tests in Prime since it said "Maximum power consumption" which made the most sense to me for testing when fiddling with voltage. And ah I see, yeah I heard that non K's can be quite the hassle :/

I'll try 4.4ghz tomorrow then without a voltage increase. Although I'm happy with my current values because I still want to have some headroom for summer where my ambient temperature can easily rise to 30°C and more :p
 

Oxn

Member
Thought about going smaller? Node 304 will fit all that in a smaller case. Unless your going for the 901 for more aesthetics? I always like cramming as much power into the tiniest box nowadays.

Coolermaster 130 elite also.

Yep the aesthetics was a huge selling point
 

sfried

Member
I am now debating to myself which card to get: AMD R9 Nano, Asus/XFX Fury (fan ventilated), or an R9 390.

I've been inclined to investigate attaining one of the fan blown Furys considering the power draw is still much less than a standard (water cooled) Fury X, and perhaps still even less power than a R9 390. That said, I might have to reposition my HDD elsewhere in the case.

The point is I've settled with the RVZ02B case from Silverstone, and going by this guy who went with the same case and even the same parts (sans CPU cooler and RAM), I'm wondering if it would be okay to aim for one of those tri-blower Furys as oppose to one fan from the Nano. Not only would it be a boon to performance, but would more fans = more adequate cooling for such a case?

I'm also thinking of aquiring a Corsair SF600 for my power supply, as I've heard the SilverStone SFX 600W tends to break down after a few months.
 

Oxn

Member
I am now debating to myself which card to get: AMD R9 Nano, Asus/XFX Fury (fan ventilated), or an R9 390.

I've been inclined to investigate attaining one of the fan blown Furys considering the power draw is still much less than a standard (water cooled) Fury X, and perhaps still even less power than a R9 390. That said, I might have to reposition my HDD elsewhere in the case.

The point is I've settled with the RVZ02B case from Silverstone, and going by this guy who went with the same case and even the same parts (sans CPU cooler and RAM), I'm wondering if it would be okay to aim for one of those tri-blower Furys as oppose to one fan from the Nano. Not only would it be a boon to performance, but would more fans = more adequate cooling for such a case?

I'm also thinking of aquiring a Corsair SF600 for my power supply, as I've heard the SilverStone SFX 600W tends to break down after a few months.

Ive been heavily looking at the nano ever since the price drop. It outperforms the Fury by a soight margin from all the benchmarks ive seen
 

Ellite25

Member
So I went ahead and bought a brand new Gigabyte G1 970 for $278. From what I had read around the web it's one of the better 970s out there and the deal was too good to pass up.

Also, I appreciate the user that responded to me about pascal vs. maxwell. Granted I didn't understand much of it lol decided I was ready to upgrade now so why not.
 

LilJoka

Member
Wow okay so I assume my voltage levels are quite good? :eek: Note that I run In-place FFT tests in Prime since it said "Maximum power consumption" which made the most sense to me for testing when fiddling with voltage. And ah I see, yeah I heard that non K's can be quite the hassle :/

I'll try 4.4ghz tomorrow then without a voltage increase. Although I'm happy with my current values because I still want to have some headroom for summer where my ambient temperature can easily rise to 30°C and more :p

In prime click blend then click custom and enter 70% of RAM to test.
You might need a little more voltage but probably not more than 1.15-1.20v.
That's fair about summer temps but remember nothing will push the temps as far as prime does.
 

bomblord1

Banned
I am now debating to myself which card to get: AMD R9 Nano, Asus/XFX Fury (fan ventilated), or an R9 390.

I've been inclined to investigate attaining one of the fan blown Furys considering the power draw is still much less than a standard (water cooled) Fury X, and perhaps still even less power than a R9 390. That said, I might have to reposition my HDD elsewhere in the case.

The point is I've settled with the RVZ02B case from Silverstone, and going by this guy who went with the same case and even the same parts (sans CPU cooler and RAM), I'm wondering if it would be okay to aim for one of those tri-blower Furys as oppose to one fan from the Nano. Not only would it be a boon to performance, but would more fans = more adequate cooling for such a case?

I'm also thinking of aquiring a Corsair SF600 for my power supply, as I've heard the SilverStone SFX 600W tends to break down after a few months.

The fan blown Fury is notably weaker than the Fury X and doesn't have the High Bandwidth Memory.

The R9 nano is basically just a tiny fury on a strict power threshold and air cooled. Looking up some OC'ing several sites just threw on a +50% power multiplier without even messing with the speed (its capable of reaching 1000mhz stock but doesn't to stay at it's power threshold) and got it to near fury levels. After the price drop it's $100-$150 less as well.
 

sfried

Member
The fan blown Fury is a fraction of the power of the Fury X (watercooled) and doesn't have the High Bandwidth Memory.

The R9 nano is basically just a tiny fury on a strict power threshold with a 50%+ power multiplier you can get it to near fury levels and it's $100-$150 less

Bare in mind I am not planning on overclocking any components in any form since it will wear down parts.

Also from what I've read the fan-blown Furys do have HBM. It all comes down to which manufacturer makes fans that have the least amount of coil whine and manage to keep the card cool.

Also
kdZ3k.png


I refuse to buy anything Fatal1ty branded.
Dear lord...

D-does that mean this ASRock motherboard I was aiming for is pure crap? I only liked it because it had a buttload of USB ports, but now I'm nervous...
 

diablos991

Can’t stump the diablos
Bare in mind I am not planning on overclocking any components in any form since it will wear down parts.

Also from what I've read the fan-blown Furys do have HBM. It all comes down to which manufacturer makes fans that have the least amount of coil whine and manage to keep the card cool.

Also

Dear lord...

D-does that mean this ASRock motherboard I was aiming for is pure crap? I only liked it because it had a buttload of USB ports, but now I'm nervous...

Don't be nervous. My Asrock Fatal1ty z97 board is the best board I have owned. The thing is truly fantastic when it comes to overclocking and has been perfectly stable for the past year. Looks great in the case too.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Bare in mind I am not planning on overclocking any components in any form since it will wear down parts.

Also from what I've read the fan-blown Furys do have HBM. It all comes down to which manufacturer makes fans that have the least amount of coil whine and manage to keep the card cool.

Also

Dear lord...

D-does that mean this ASRock motherboard I was aiming for is pure crap? I only liked it because it had a buttload of USB ports, but now I'm nervous...

It's not actually an overclock the Nano is capable of reaching 1000mhz stock but it doesn't just because AMD put it on a strict power budget.

Also none of the air cooled fury's have HBM that I'm aware of unless they launched a new product

AMD won't allow manufacturers to modify the watercooled HBM version. The only air cooled HBM card I'm aware of is the Nano.

Edit: Looks like i spoke too soon they did release an air cooled HBM card http://vrworld.com/2015/07/13/amd-launches-more-affordable-air-cooled-r9-fury/. It's still notably slower than the Fury X though
 

Oxn

Member
Bare in mind I am not planning on overclocking any components in any form since it will wear down parts.

Also from what I've read the fan-blown Furys do have HBM. It all comes down to which manufacturer makes fans that have the least amount of coil whine and manage to keep the card cool.

Also

Dear lord...

D-does that mean this ASRock motherboard I was aiming for is pure crap? I only liked it because it had a buttload of USB ports, but now I'm nervous...

Seriously dude dont get the Fury

Either nano or fury x

Scratch that just Nano if you want AmD and hbm

Otherwise go 980 ti if u want more power
 
In prime click blend then click custom and enter 70% of RAM to test.
You might need a little more voltage but probably not more than 1.15-1.20v.
That's fair about summer temps but remember nothing will push the temps as far as prime does.

Alright thank I'll keep that in mind and okay I'll see how I fare at 4.3ghz first.
 

Crisium

Member
Bare in mind I am not planning on overclocking any components in any form since it will wear down parts.

Also from what I've read the fan-blown Furys do have HBM. It all comes down to which manufacturer makes fans that have the least amount of coil whine and manage to keep the card cool.

If you are not interested in overclocking a Nano then you still definitely want to give it +50% power limit (this neither overclocks nor overvolts) to keep it operating closer to the full 1000Mhz. Then after testing and monitoring just that for a bit, try to undervolt it slightly. -24mv or -48mv to start (after a while you can try pushing all the way to -96v although this is less likely). Most Fiji's can be undervolted (the ASUS Fury is factory undervolted) and this draws less power and makes less heat so it can keep 1000MHz.

You may also want to use a custom fan curve as this can also help keep the clocks at full. Use MSI Afterburner (and its partner software RTSS) to monitor and undervolt and set a custom fan curve. Since the Nano is a dynamically clocked card it takes babysitting to get the most performance out of it.

Seriously dude dont get the Fury

Either nano or fury x

Scratch that just Nano if you want AmD and hbm

I have a Sapphire Fury Tri-X and it is insanely quiet. That's the biggest advantage it has over the Nano since it has a massive heatsink and triple fans. A Fury with a factory overclock should equal or slightly outperform a stock Nano if you do not babysit the Nano since it will average closer to mid-to-low 900s. I also have my Fury partially unlocked (3584->3840 Shaders) and slightly overclocked (1066/545 from 1000/500) and undervolved -48mv (which Tom's estimates shaves off over 30watts at load). I'm happy with it, and even if a Nano might be able to very slightly outperform it with the right work... it would undoubtedly be louder because this thing is dead silent.
 

sfried

Member
If you are not interested in overclocking a Nano then you still definitely want to give it +50% power limit (this neither overclocks nor overvolts) to keep it operating closer to the full 1000Mhz. Then after testing and monitoring just that for a bit, try to undervolt it slightly. -24mv or -48mv to start (after a while you can try pushing all the way to -96v although this is less likely). Most Fiji's can be undervolted (the ASUS Fury is factory undervolted) and this draws less power and makes less heat so it can keep 1000MHz.

You may also want to use a custom fan curve as this can also help keep the clocks at full. Use MSI Afterburner (and its partner software RTSS) to monitor and undervolt and set a custom fan curve. Since the Nano is a dynamically clocked card it takes babysitting to get the most performance out of it.

Wait...+50% power limit? -24mv/-48mv? A-are you sure this is not some form of overclocking? I don't want to void any warranties here. (This is my first custom build that I'm actually going to attempt to assemble myself, so I feel iffy about trying to change stock voltages.)

Also I'm not familiar with how to use MSI Afterburner so this fan curve thing is entirely new to me.

Here's what I'm actually building. Bare in mind I have a 500W PSU and its enclosed in an RVZ02B, a miniITX HTPC case. (I primarily chose the Nano because of heat/power draw/performance ratio. Also price as of late.)
 
So looking at trying to make a friend a build around $600 for just 1080/60 gaming. Got close but any suggestions you guys would make to bring down cost a bit.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($124.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($133.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($104.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($179.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $689.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-09 18:37 EST-0500
 
Got close but any suggestions you guys would make to bring down cost a bit.

A 950 instead of a 960? They are practically the same thing, roughly 10% higher performance for 50$ more.
As for the motherboard you could also get something cheaper for sure if you don't mind losing the overclocking ability.
 

Crisium

Member
Wait...+50% power limit? -24mv/-48mv? A-are you sure this is not some form of overclocking? I don't want to void any warranties here. (This is my first custom build that I'm actually going to attempt to assemble myself, so I feel iffy about trying to change stock voltages.)

Also I'm not familiar with how to use MSI Afterburner so this fan curve thing is entirely new to me.

Here's what I'm actually building. Bare in mind I have a 500W PSU and its enclosed in an RVZ02B, a miniITX HTPC case. (I primarily chose the Nano because of heat/power draw/performance ratio. Also price as of late.)


The Nano downclocks based on two things: wattage and temperature. Power Limit simply raises the artificially imposed AMD wattage limit. Undervolting in turn lowers wattage and thus temperatures. Slight Undervolting is actually healthy for a GPU and is the opposite path of aggressive overclocking in which you Overvolt. If you get stability issues then you have undervolted too far and then you simply back off with no damage done.

HardOCP found that their Nano at stock everything averaged only 913MHz. Simply raising the Power Limit to +50% increased the average to 963MHz. That was tackling AMD's arbitrary wattage limit. To tackle the temperature problem they set the fan to 100%, which is utterly obnoxious. But it gave it the full 1000MHz average:

http://hardocp.com/article/2015/12/...orm_factor_overclocking_review/2#.Vrp6LtAhGFk

An alternative and more audibly reasonable path to tackle the temperature problem is to undervolt. I'd suggest starting with -24mv, and trying -48mv if the former is stable but not giving the full 1000mhz. FYI you can only change voltage in multiples of .06mv. You may need a custom fan curve as well, but certainly you won't need the full 100%.

I think tweaking the Nano would be very fun. But at the very least giving +50% power limit is an easy solution to increase performance and doesn't even need MSI Afterburner. If you don't want any babysitting on it though I'd think a factory overclocked Fury may be a bit faster and also likely quieter, e.g. 1050Mhz Fury, but it asks for more money.
 

Pachinko

Member
Do you live in the US? If you're near Micro Center, it's on sale for $369 until Friday, Newegg has it for $379 with a promo code today.

Sadly no, In canada and there's a local store that does price matching I'm probably going to use to avoid having to wait as long for shipping.

I'm considering just getting the 6700K instead but it's 110$ extra here.

edit - just for fun -
What is more demanding?

21:9 1440p at 100hz

Or

16:9 4K at 60hz

Answer -
495072000 pixels a second (4K @ 60 HZ)

3360X1440@100 HZ = 483840000 pixels a second

4K is slightly more demanding.
 

diablos991

Can’t stump the diablos
What is more demanding?

21:9 1440p at 100hz

Or

16:9 4K at 60hz

By my calculations the 4K @ 60hz will be 0.47% more demanding.

Really close.

Totally different story if they are both at 60hz. With both at 60hz, 4K is 67.44% more demanding.
 

Oxn

Member
Thanks for the math.

Since it is practically equal, I guess outside of the price, it depends on if i want smoother or better density.
 

diablos991

Can’t stump the diablos
Thanks for the math.

Since it is practically equal, I guess outside of the price, it depends on if i want smoother or better density.

I would think the form factor of the display plays a part as well. Curved ultrawide looks pretty damn neat in person.
 

Crisium

Member
What is more demanding?

21:9 1440p at 100hz

Or

16:9 4K at 60hz

For gaming? Well it depends if you want to V-Sync at the full refresh rates. I'd wager a guess that you'd have a much harder time V-Syncing on a 3440x1440 display at 100Hz than on a 3840x2160 at 60Hz. Some games really struggle to hit high framerates due to CPU limitations regardless of your GPU and even despite lowering some settings. It's not as simple as calculating Pixels per second (for example there are games in which 4K 60fps is attainable but 2560x1440 100fps is not, let alone the more demanding 3440x1440.)

Even with a high end GPU neither will be possible without lowering settings in the latest demanding games.

And you can always change your refresh rate to 60Hz on the 21:9 3440x1440 display for V-Sync purposes though, so it is ultimately the far less demanding display for gaming.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom