Ive been seeing this case all over the place lately. Is it the new go to case for big itx cases? Like the prodigy before it?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Ive been seeing this case all over the place lately. Is it the new go to case for big itx cases? Like the prodigy before it?
Bloodember
Member
No idea, it is big for an ITX case though. Not as big as my Corsair 800D though. I bought it because I thought it looked awesome in red and black, plus I was going ITX anyway. In person it looks just as awesome, pretty happy with the purchase, now I'll see if I like it after I have a system in it. It's actual release date is suppose to be tomorrow, but I did notice newegg.com had the full black one in stock last week. I ordered mine direct from NZXT.
Is there any reason to stay away from a smaller form factor case (was considering MicroATX)? I'm going to keep it fairly basic with one GPU, one SSD and one HDD. I was wondering if cooling was the major issue with going with a smaller case size. I've never built anything in smaller than a mid size case but am thinking of going with the smaller case this time around. I'm guessing one big factor is how much power you will need to run through the components you choose, and perhaps overclocking might play into this as well.
Bloodember
Member
No. The MATX and ITX motherboards are just as good as the ATX boards now. Cooling is not a problem in many of the newer cases.
Depends on the layout of the case. I have a Noctua-DH15 (which is massive) inside my Prodigy with an ITX motherboard. I also added another exhaust fan to the top and the airflow is amazing... Even with all 5 HDD bays full.
I'm running my 6700k at 4.4 and I'm sure it could go higher.
Got my NCASE M1 last week. Finally time to upgrade from this Phenom II X6 that's served me well past its due date.
What should I be looking for in a motherboard nowadays GAF? I'd like to be fairly near-future proof so USB-C / USB 3.1 is probably a requirement. Anything else? Is thunderbolt 3 a thing yet? Do most decent motherboards come with bluetooth support? I haven't really kept up.
What should I be looking for in a motherboard nowadays GAF? I'd like to be fairly near-future proof so USB-C / USB 3.1 is probably a requirement. Anything else? Is thunderbolt 3 a thing yet? Do most decent motherboards come with bluetooth support? I haven't really kept up.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Out of curiosity would undervolting be also something for other GPUs like a 7970? I have mine running at 1100mhz core and 1500mhz memory stable but it does reach 77°C like that and even with a custom fan-profile it can get a bit loud.
If so, how would I go about that? Core Voltage is locked out in MSI Afterburner.
This is good to know, thanks.
Also good to know. What card do you have in there?
iamsirjoshua
Member
After reading many of the posts here I just finished putting together my very first gaming PC. It's not going to blow anyone's mind, but I'm very proud of it!
Corsair Carbide Spec-02 case
Gigabyte Z97-HD3 MoBo
i5 4590 3.3GHz
GTX 970 4GB
8GB DDR3 RAM
250GB Samsung EVO SSD
750GB HDD (scrounged this from an older desktop)
Acer 24" 1080p 60Hz IPS monitor
Thanks to everyone for the inspiration and assistance. Felt amazing to load up Firewatch today and crush it at 1080/60. Not the most demanding game in the world, but more than my PS4 can manage for sure.
Corsair Carbide Spec-02 case
Gigabyte Z97-HD3 MoBo
i5 4590 3.3GHz
GTX 970 4GB
8GB DDR3 RAM
250GB Samsung EVO SSD
750GB HDD (scrounged this from an older desktop)
Acer 24" 1080p 60Hz IPS monitor
Thanks to everyone for the inspiration and assistance. Felt amazing to load up Firewatch today and crush it at 1080/60. Not the most demanding game in the world, but more than my PS4 can manage for sure.
A 970, but one of the short form factor ones. A Prodigy will fit a full-size GPU, but you have to remove a hard drive cage. Which is probably not an issue for most people, but I have 5 HDs in there so I need every single HD slot.
Congrats! It looks great. Enjoy it!
MisterNoisy
Member
Smaller form factors are awesome. If you know you aren't going to SLI/XFire, there's no reason to go ATX or larger. Cooling is a non-issue with so many SFF enthusiast cases out there.
soulassssns
Banned
I just upgraded from an A10 5800k system to a similar system to yours. Just waiting on the parts to arrive from Amazon.
Thermaltake Versa H25 case with EVGA 750 PSU
Gigabyte Z97M-DS3H (I like small mobos)
I5-4690K with Hyper 212 EVO cooler
16GB Gskill Ram
250gb Samsung 850 Evo SSD
2x 500 GB WD Blue HDD (from old system)
MSI GTX 760 2gb (possibly ordering a 970 but not sure yet)
That's a pretty aggressive overclock for stock volts as it is, so I doubt it. It's most likely at stock clocks. Stock Hawaii (290,390 series) cards are very good at it and it appears that Fiji (Fury) is too.
MSI Afterburner, Settings, General, "Unlock voltage control" and I'd suggest also "Unluck voltage monitoring".
VanillaCakeIsBurning
Member
I remember reading that using V-sync causes some substantial input delay.
Is there any truth to that or am I fine in turning it on in whatever game?
Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this kind of question.
Is there any truth to that or am I fine in turning it on in whatever game?
Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this kind of question.
diablos991
Can’t stump the diablos
It does add input delay. But it can vary depending on how many frames it is trying to sync.
With a GTX 950 or 960, you'd be playing most of the latest games at medium settings, perhaps high settings in a few cases if 1080p60 is your goal. I would drop from 16GB to 8GB of RAM and a cheaper power supply to get your parts list within your budget. I don't recommend you buy a 5400RPM drive, the 7200RPM model is cheaper and better performing.
If you are overclocking, keep in mind that you'll want to spend the additional money on an aftermarket cooler. You won't need to spend much, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($25 after $10 rebate) comes well recommend and should handle moderate overclocking fairly easily for its low price. Otherwise if you aren't overclocking, then I would recommend going with a cheaper B150 or H170 motherboard. I'll give you two example parts lists.
This is for overclocking:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($124.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($46.97 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($38.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $592.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 00:18 EST-0500
And here's the non-overclocking recommendation:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H170M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($38.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $600.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 00:21 EST-0500
I think the second build is better. A decent quad core processor will have less trouble than a dual core processor when it comes to achieving 60FPS in most games, and it won't be reliant on overclocking so no fiddling with settings and making it stable.
Finished switching over from AM3 to 1151. Updated my mobo's (MSI Z170A PC Mate) BIOS to latest version and all is working well. Temps on the i5-6600K are much, much lower than the Phenom II ever achieved with the same cooler (212 EVO). Is MSI's OC Genie 4 safe? I turned it on to check it out and this is what CPU-Z reads back:
The voltage will sometimes go up to 1.352v, but so far I haven't seen it go any higher.
Am I safe, GAF?
The voltage will sometimes go up to 1.352v, but so far I haven't seen it go any higher.
Am I safe, GAF?
VanillaCakeIsBurning
Member
So the fewer frames the less input delay it adds?
I'll try looking into this more. I'm curious as to how significant the delay is for something like a 60Hz monitor (I think that's the refresh rate for my monitor at least).
Finished switching over from AM3 to 1151. Updated my mobo's (MSI Z170A PC Mate) BIOS to latest version and all is working well. Temps on the i5-6600K are much, much lower than the Phenom II ever achieved with the same cooler (212 EVO). Is MSI's OC Genie 4 safe? I turned it on to check it out and this is what CPU-Z reads back:
The voltage will sometimes go up to 1.352v, but so far I haven't seen it go any higher.
Am I safe, GAF?
Use HWinfo, link in OP, and run a stress test. Look at your max core voltage and temps. Generally, if it's under 1.35V and 80C, it should be fine. In your case, if you do it manually, you should be able to get better speeds with a lower core voltage, and thus, better temps.
Tarin02543
Member
This continues to be a fantastic thread, so much usable information.
My build:
i7 3770
8GB RAM
GTX 760
2x SSD 256GB
IPS 1440p Acer
Built and upgraded around 2012-2014, runs everything great.
My next build will be around 2022.
My build:
i7 3770
8GB RAM
GTX 760
2x SSD 256GB
IPS 1440p Acer
Built and upgraded around 2012-2014, runs everything great.
My next build will be around 2022.
Finished switching over from AM3 to 1151. Updated my mobo's (MSI Z170A PC Mate) BIOS to latest version and all is working well. Temps on the i5-6600K are much, much lower than the Phenom II ever achieved with the same cooler (212 EVO). Is MSI's OC Genie 4 safe? I turned it on to check it out and this is what CPU-Z reads back:
The voltage will sometimes go up to 1.352v, but so far I haven't seen it go any higher.
Am I safe, GAF?
Way to much vcore for that tiny overclock.
Interesting, how well is that GTX 760 handling 1440p gaming?
I'm thinking about getting the R9 390 and have a few questions about processors.
How big a deal is having 8 CPU threads for gaming? I recall reading one person implying that with modern gaming 8 threads is pretty important, but I see many i5 builds out there.
With an R9 390 how big a deal is clock speed of a CPU? If I were to get an i5-6500 @ 3.2 GHz CPU would I be bottlenecking the GPU? I'm seeing builds for R9 390s on pcpartspicker with this CPU as well as the i5-4460 @ 3.2 GHz so I'm assuming they would not hold the card back.
If those processors would be sufficient for the R9 390, would there be no point of having a more powerful CPU like the i5-6600K @ 3.50 GHz (+overclock), aside from leaving some leeway for a future upgrade?
How big a deal is having 8 CPU threads for gaming? I recall reading one person implying that with modern gaming 8 threads is pretty important, but I see many i5 builds out there.
With an R9 390 how big a deal is clock speed of a CPU? If I were to get an i5-6500 @ 3.2 GHz CPU would I be bottlenecking the GPU? I'm seeing builds for R9 390s on pcpartspicker with this CPU as well as the i5-4460 @ 3.2 GHz so I'm assuming they would not hold the card back.
If those processors would be sufficient for the R9 390, would there be no point of having a more powerful CPU like the i5-6600K @ 3.50 GHz (+overclock), aside from leaving some leeway for a future upgrade?
Is the power limit increased via Crimson Software (via the Global Overdrive)?
I don't even know how to undervolt a GPU.
Silent_Ocarina
Member
Here's my current build. :]
It's the one on the left. And here are my components:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liqtech 240 111.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($152.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 270 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card
Case: NZXT H440 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $838.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 04:37 EST-0500
This was after my CPU upgrade. The RAM, case, motherboard, and CPU are new. I was originally going to go for an i7-6700k, but I figured I should really just save where I can. I believed the hyperthreading would be wasted on someone who mostly just games. I'm really, really, itching to upgrade that GPU, but I'm gonna wait for Pascal. I'm seriously considering getting the Vive, so I know I'll need to do it eventually. Unfortunately, my computer performance isn't that much different from when I had my FX-8320. I also overclocked my i5-6600k to 4.3 GHz, but the improvement I expected in general usage wasn't there.
Thanks to everyone in this thread! Building is so much fun to me. I wish I just had more expendable income so I can really go crazy!
It's the one on the left. And here are my components:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liqtech 240 111.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 6 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($152.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 270 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card
Case: NZXT H440 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $838.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-10 04:37 EST-0500
This was after my CPU upgrade. The RAM, case, motherboard, and CPU are new. I was originally going to go for an i7-6700k, but I figured I should really just save where I can. I believed the hyperthreading would be wasted on someone who mostly just games. I'm really, really, itching to upgrade that GPU, but I'm gonna wait for Pascal. I'm seriously considering getting the Vive, so I know I'll need to do it eventually. Unfortunately, my computer performance isn't that much different from when I had my FX-8320. I also overclocked my i5-6600k to 4.3 GHz, but the improvement I expected in general usage wasn't there.
Thanks to everyone in this thread! Building is so much fun to me. I wish I just had more expendable income so I can really go crazy!
Skyfireblaze
Member
It might seem like one but it's a Club3D 7970 Royal Queen and I simply set it to the same values as the Club3D 7970 Royal Ace: http://www.club-3d.com/index.php/products/reader.en/product/radeon-hd-7970-royalace.html
As far as I could tell the PCB and cooling solution between the Queen and Ace are 100% the same so I figured if I'm lucky it can take these clocks no problem and luckily it did
And for Afterburner, I presume since the card is not a MSI one I would have to set the voltage unlock to "MSI Extended"? Which values should I try at first for undervolting?
I can highly recommend http://www.jonnyguru.com for PSU reviews. Can't really help with your very specific question since I never owned a PSU in that watt range
CraigerGamer
Member
Anyone got a cheap, legal way to procure a windows key/download? Was hoping to avoid paying $100 if at all possible.
Bloodember
Member
Got my new system ordered. Here's what I decided on.
New parts
CPU: I7 6700K
Motherboard: Asrock Z170 Fatality ITX
RAM: G.Skill TridentZ DDR4 3000 32GB
Storage:Samsung 850 EVO 500gb M.2
WB Black 4TB
Cooling: NZXT Kraken X61
Case: NZXT Manta
Keyboard: Logitech G910
Mouse: Logitech G502
For graphics card cooling: NZXT Kraken X41 & NZXT KRG10
Parts from old computer
Gigabyte R9 290X
XFX 750 watt power supply
I don't like how hot my graphic card gets so I'm water cooling it. As for the keyboard and mouse, I have a Razer Black Widow ultimate and the Razer MMO Mouse. But hell new computer build so new keyboard and mouse so I decided to try out Logitech.
New parts
CPU: I7 6700K
Motherboard: Asrock Z170 Fatality ITX
RAM: G.Skill TridentZ DDR4 3000 32GB
Storage:Samsung 850 EVO 500gb M.2
WB Black 4TB
Cooling: NZXT Kraken X61
Case: NZXT Manta
Keyboard: Logitech G910
Mouse: Logitech G502
For graphics card cooling: NZXT Kraken X41 & NZXT KRG10
Parts from old computer
Gigabyte R9 290X
XFX 750 watt power supply
I don't like how hot my graphic card gets so I'm water cooling it. As for the keyboard and mouse, I have a Razer Black Widow ultimate and the Razer MMO Mouse. But hell new computer build so new keyboard and mouse so I decided to try out Logitech.
Whats the damage on all that?
Golgo 13
The Man With The Golden Dong
Hey guys/gals. Very much a computer newbie (I have seen the inside of my old PC a few times and helped a friend install a video card, but that's it) but I need a new PC for some school stuff and figured "why not make it a decent gaming PC while I'm at it"? So I did a quick Google Search and found this article regarding "best gaming desktop under $1000". Around $1000 is my budget, give or take a few hundred bucks.
The full article is at the end of the post, but here's the components.
Case Corsair Carbide Series Black 300R Mid-Tower
Processor Intel Core i7-4790K Quad-Core
Motherboard MSI ATX Z97 DDR3 2400 LGA 1150
Video Card Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 4GB
RAM Crucial 8GB Single
Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 750W B1 80+ BRONZE
Hard Drive Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache
CD Drive Asus 24x DVD-RW
Total Cost: $1030.70
Now, this would require self-assembly, but it sounds like I'd be saving myself about $300-$500 from something pre-assembled. I'm a reasonably intelligent person who can follow instructions -- could I probably do this myself with some YouTube help?
And yeah, I know I'd still need a keyboard/mouse, and an operating system (I have a monitor), and that's fine, I could dish out the extra dough for that.
My basic question is -- Is this a good setup and price? And how likely is it that I could do this myself with no experience?
Thanks for your feedback, guys.
PS-- Here's the full article
http://pcbuildsonabudget.com/best-gaming-pc-build-for-under-1000-dollars
The full article is at the end of the post, but here's the components.
Case Corsair Carbide Series Black 300R Mid-Tower
Processor Intel Core i7-4790K Quad-Core
Motherboard MSI ATX Z97 DDR3 2400 LGA 1150
Video Card Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 G1 4GB
RAM Crucial 8GB Single
Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 750W B1 80+ BRONZE
Hard Drive Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache
CD Drive Asus 24x DVD-RW
Total Cost: $1030.70
Now, this would require self-assembly, but it sounds like I'd be saving myself about $300-$500 from something pre-assembled. I'm a reasonably intelligent person who can follow instructions -- could I probably do this myself with some YouTube help?
And yeah, I know I'd still need a keyboard/mouse, and an operating system (I have a monitor), and that's fine, I could dish out the extra dough for that.
My basic question is -- Is this a good setup and price? And how likely is it that I could do this myself with no experience?
Thanks for your feedback, guys.
PS-- Here's the full article
http://pcbuildsonabudget.com/best-gaming-pc-build-for-under-1000-dollars
GamerKingFaiz
Member
Hi Guys, I need your opinions on the Intel NUC.
Currently I am running a Raspberry Pi as my Transmission server, Apache server, and Mumble server. I've been looking into getting the Plex Media Server (PMS) off my desktop because I already have to clean the dust out of my desktop every 2-3 weeks and leaving it on 24/7 would only make it accumulate dust faster).
Would this Intel NUC be a good option to host all of the current services I have on my Raspberry Pi as well as the PMS?
I assume it would be best to get a NAS to store all my media? Currently just have a USB 2.0 external HDD connected to the Raspberry Pi. (I wonder if a NAS would also solve the transfer bottleneck speeds on the Raspberry Pi)
Currently I am running a Raspberry Pi as my Transmission server, Apache server, and Mumble server. I've been looking into getting the Plex Media Server (PMS) off my desktop because I already have to clean the dust out of my desktop every 2-3 weeks and leaving it on 24/7 would only make it accumulate dust faster).
Would this Intel NUC be a good option to host all of the current services I have on my Raspberry Pi as well as the PMS?
I assume it would be best to get a NAS to store all my media? Currently just have a USB 2.0 external HDD connected to the Raspberry Pi. (I wonder if a NAS would also solve the transfer bottleneck speeds on the Raspberry Pi)
Yes, you can do +50% Power Limit in Crimson Software. Easy way to get better Nano performance.
You need MSI Afterburner if you want to lower voltage. Once open, MSI Afterburner, Settings, General, "Unlock voltage control" and I'd suggest also "Unluck voltage monitoring". Then you can change the slider. But you'd also want to monitor the clocks with the OSD, which is a whole 'nother animal. And set up a fan curve. It takes babysitting as I said.
The +50% Power Limit will likely be the bigger difference in performance, if it all seems too much.
Just do the +50% Power Limit when you get your Nano, and feel free to PM me if you want any advice on MSI Afterburner functionality to get just another few percentage more performance and I can walk you through.
It might seem like one but it's a Club3D 7970 Royal Queen and I simply set it to the same values as the Club3D 7970 Royal Ace: http://www.club-3d.com/index.php/products/reader.en/product/radeon-hd-7970-royalace.html
As far as I could tell the PCB and cooling solution between the Queen and Ace are 100% the same so I figured if I'm lucky it can take these clocks no problem and luckily it did
And for Afterburner, I presume since the card is not a MSI one I would have to set the voltage unlock to "MSI Extended"? Which values should I try at first for undervolting?
MSI Extended is fine.
Ok, that's a very good card because it is factory undervolted already. Yours is at 1.020V by default at 1100MHz. The original voltage of these cards was usually 1.075V or 1.062V and at a lower clockspeed. I don't think you have much to go. Try -15mv, if it keeps after a while, try -20mv or -25mv. I wouldn't go lower than that. If -15mv doesn't work you could try a smaller reduction or just give up.
The Intel NUC is orders of magnitude faster than a raspberry pi. If the software works on the hardware it should be nothing but an improvement
double0cinco
Banned
http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/219923/intel-pushes-cpu-microcode-update-which-cripples-overclocking-non-k-skylake-cpus.html
FYI, Intel is rolling out a microcode update to disable blk oc'ing of non-k chips on z-170 motherboards. Now what I don't know is if this will come solely through bios updates (which are easy to avoid), or if it could possibly come through windows updates. If the former, that would obviously be bad for people who do this already or were planning on it...
FYI, Intel is rolling out a microcode update to disable blk oc'ing of non-k chips on z-170 motherboards. Now what I don't know is if this will come solely through bios updates (which are easy to avoid), or if it could possibly come through windows updates. If the former, that would obviously be bad for people who do this already or were planning on it...
I got it yesterday, and got a good surprise!
They silently updated the PB278Q without changing the model # in the US. The one I got has the new OSD and buttons, indicating it is a PB278QR.
That means it's delay-free, AH-IPS instead of PLS and a true 8 bit panel instead of 6!
Feels like a steal for $408, GTAV and Witcher 3 look great on it.
Luckily I have a k, but damn that's shady/bogus.
Bluforce
Member
Opinions on the XFX TS 650W (P1-650G-TS3X)?
http://xfxforce.com/en-us/products/ts-series-gold-full-wired/ts-gold-series-650w-psu-p1-650g-ts3x
Is it a good choice?
i5 6600, no overclock, and a single good GPU later this year.
I'm selling parts of my old PC, and the buyer is interested in my actual PSU (XFX ProSeries 450W), so I have to replace it immediately with a better one.
http://xfxforce.com/en-us/products/ts-series-gold-full-wired/ts-gold-series-650w-psu-p1-650g-ts3x
Is it a good choice?
i5 6600, no overclock, and a single good GPU later this year.
I'm selling parts of my old PC, and the buyer is interested in my actual PSU (XFX ProSeries 450W), so I have to replace it immediately with a better one.
Bloodember
Member
Collateral22
Member
Right kinda nailed down a few things I have chosen for my build:
CPU: i5-6600k
Mobo: MSI Z170-A
HDD: Seagate 1TB 7200rpm
SSD: 120GB Kingston V300
CPU Cooler: Hyper Master 212 Evo
RAM: 8GB DDR4
Can't decide whether to go for a GTX 970 or an R9 390.
CPU: i5-6600k
Mobo: MSI Z170-A
HDD: Seagate 1TB 7200rpm
SSD: 120GB Kingston V300
CPU Cooler: Hyper Master 212 Evo
RAM: 8GB DDR4
Can't decide whether to go for a GTX 970 or an R9 390.
More than enough.
I run 550w, 3770k OC to 4.4, with a 780gtx, and its more than enough wattage.
7DollarHagane
Banned
I'm losing patience and want to buy a 970..
But that $300.. Has there been any good deals?
And I guess the msi is the best model?
But that $300.. Has there been any good deals?
And I guess the msi is the best model?
You can try the Neogaf Buy/Sell/Trade thread. It's under gaming community. You can probably get one from there (used) for a good price.
Skyfireblaze
Member
Okay thank you for the help, I will try that later
I guess FurMark is still the go-to testing for GPUs?And so I take it I made the steal I thought I did with that card? I bought it way back and purchased a 7950 for 220€ first which didn't overclock at all. Then just a week later I saw the Club3D 7970 Royal Queen for 240€, immediately bought it and exchanged the 7950. Another week later and the price went up to 280€ so I was happy
EDIT: The default voltage Afterburner shows after unlocking is 1113, could I try to set this to Royal Ace levels?
Personally recommend a 390 it beats the 970 in several scenarios.
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