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[Lonely1]

Looks like your main concern is the exchange rate, is changing all the fund to dollar now and wait an option?

I would lose the 10% discount and old inventory price .

 

[Novum_Veritas]

Thanks that's handy I found this one: https://www.alternate.de/Digitus/7-...0-Soundkarte/html/product/692598?tk=7&lk=8583

Seems like it won't get much cheaper than 25€. If I go for an internal one, I can stick a 1x PCI-E card into my second PCI-E x16 slot right? Because I feel a sound-card won't fit right above my GFX card since it has a metal bracket. Then again I guess I could get a PCI one too.

Yeah, you can use any PCI-Express card at a PCI-E slot.
Should work even if it's 1x. Depends if your mainboard supports PCI input, what mainboard do you have?

 

[theRizzle]

I can do over $1,000, I just didn't want do like $1,100+. Just easier if I say the limit is a specific number, know what I mean?

But this is definitely great. Thank you so much for this. I'll spend some time looking at this (I'm like a retarded monkey when it comes to this stuff so I have to look it over, lol) and get back to you if this is what I go with. Again, thank you.

EDIT: Unless I'm missing something does this still need a CD/DVD drive? Or is there a way for me to install Windows without one?

No problem at all. RGM did most of the work but it's fun to do... so I guess it's not really work then is it?

As far as Windows, it's going to be just a serial number. Microsoft offers an ISO file to download here using their Media Creation Tool. You can use that to make a DVD if you want, but most people use the tool to create a bootable USB flash drive and install from there.

 

[mkenyon]

Is buying a Mobo now and CPU ~4-5 months from now a bad idea?

My position, I'm looking to upgrade my motherboard more than my CPU. I need SATA-III connectors for my SSDs, I'm also planning on buying a M.2 PCi-E disk for main drive. I have two GPUs so I would like to have as many PCie lanes as possible. Faster memory wouldn't hurt. My conclusion is that I'm looking into a X99 mother board.

The problem is that the current CPUs for the slot are nearly two years old! I don't feel comfortable in paying so much for older tech. The solution would seem obvious, wait until the new Broadwell-E CPUs release this summer. But the thing is, I don't live in the USA. The dollar has been in an upwards trajectory for the past two years and the retailer (Amazon Mexico) is honouring older exchanges rates on older inventory, plus a 10% discount with my bank for this month only. If I wait until June, I'm looking at expending considerably more unless we have a surge in oil prices.

In short, my options are:
1) Buy the motherboard, M.2 Drive and RAM sticks now, wait ~5 months for the CPU while the rest sits idle.
2) Buy all of above along with an old-ish i7-5930K (for the 40 PCIe connectors)
3) Settle with 6700k build, even though it wouldn't be as big as an upgrade from my 2600k build.
4) Keep riding my 2600k build for a few more years.

What would you guys do?

Broadwell-E will only be a 5-10% IPC increase. Nothing that's worth waiting for.

All the important tech can already be had on X99 and Haswell-E.

If you're not planning on using more than two video cards, there's not much of a reason to get anything other than the 5820K though. 6 cores, easily OCs to 4.5+.

 

[Vitanimus]

how applicable are the build prices in the OP to the UK? I'm currently rocking an i3-3220 and a 7850, and I have some money to spend so I figured the time is now to upgrade. I built my PC nearly 4 years ago. my computer isn't particularly slow, but I think the dual core is really holding me back and the 7850 isn't the best either.

 

[I_D]

I've been Googling around, and I can't quite find a definitive answer.

Does anybody know how many hard drives this thing can hold? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119265

I need space for 1 SSD, and 5 HDDs. Will this case work? I'm thinking I might be able to rig the optical drive slots if needed. If not, anybody know of anything similar?

 

[mkenyon]

how applicable are the build prices in the OP to the UK? I'm currently rocking an i3-3220 and a 7850, and I have some money to spend so I figured the time is now to upgrade. I built my PC nearly 4 years ago. my computer isn't particularly slow, but I think the dual core is really holding me back and the 7850 isn't the best either.

Assuming you can carry over most your parts, here's what you'd need. Left the GPU selection out. If you don't have an SSD, I'd definitely suggest adding one. 500MB SSDs can be had for pretty cheap these days.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£199.96 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£121.63 @ More Computers)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£58.46 @ More Computers)
Total: £406.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 21:53 GMT+0000

I've been Googling around, and I can't quite find a definitive answer.

Does anybody know how many hard drives this thing can hold? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119265

I need space for 1 SSD, and 5 HDDs. Will this case work? I'm thinking I might be able to rig the optical drive slots if needed. If not, anybody know of anything similar?

4 3.5" HDDs.

You want an ATX cube type case with room for 5 HDDs and 1 SSD? Or just any quality case that fits the criteria?

 

[luoapp]

I would lose the 10% discount and old inventory price .

I am pretty sure there will be decent promotions in 4-5 months time.

I am just saying, buying current old tech with cheap price, vs buying future new but expensive tech is always a choice you need to make, changing the money to dollar right now just takes the exchange rate out of equation.

 

[I_D]

Assuming you can carry over most your parts, here's what you'd need. Left the GPU selection out. If you don't have an SSD, I'd definitely suggest adding one. 500MB SSDs can be had for pretty cheap these days.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£199.96 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£121.63 @ More Computers)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£58.46 @ More Computers)
Total: £406.54
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 21:53 GMT+0000

4 3.5" HDDs.

You want an ATX cube type case with room for 5 HDDs and 1 SSD? Or just any quality case that fits the criteria?

I'm moving an old media pc into it. I have a bunch of external drives that I want to make internal. Because it's a media pc, a small case would be nice. I have no use for optical drives, which is why I think I can probably make it work.

Aside from being able to fit 5hdds and 1sdd, I don't have any major preferences. It'll have a 670 in it, so fans are kinda important, but not too major.

 

[EVA UNIT 01]

Am i gonna be cool with just having a 260gb SSD at first in a new build and then adding a TB later?

I realize i will be able to hold only the OS and a few games until I add it in but budget and all that.

 

[xplicitone]

So my house decided to flicker the power off/on twice within 5 minutes.

The first time, it restarted my computer. I logged in, Ok. A few minutes later, power flickered and it just turned it off, no restart.

Now when I try to turn it on, it's having the same problem it did a few days ago:

The PC turns on, fans are on, LEDS are on on the case, but Monitors/Keyboard/Mouse doesn't work and no lights on any of them as if they aren't powered. I can plug in a usb and charge my phone, but it doesn't power up my mouse, on that same port. You think my MoBo is getting bad??

 

[mkenyon]

I'm moving an old media pc into it. I have a bunch of external drives that I want to make internal. Because it's a media pc, a small case would be nice. I have no use for optical drives, which is why I think I can probably make it work.

Aside from being able to fit 5hdds and 1sdd, I don't have any major preferences. It'll have a 670 in it, so fans are kinda important, but not too major.

ATX motherboard though?

So my house decided to flicker the power off/on twice within 5 minutes.

The first time, it restarted my computer. I logged in, Ok. A few minutes later, power flickered and it just turned it off, no restart.

Now when I try to turn it on, it's having the same problem it did a few days ago:

The PC turns on, fans are on, LEDS are on on the case, but Monitors/Keyboard/Mouse doesn't work and no lights. I can plug in a usb and charge my phone, but it doesn't power up my mouse on that same port. You think my MoBo is getting bad??

Remove the CMOS battery on your motherboard, leave it out for a minute, then put it back in.

Am i gonna be cool with just having a 260gb SSD at first in a new build and then adding a TB later?

I realize i will be able to hold only the OS and a few games until I add it in but budget and all that.

No issues at all.,

 

[RGM79]

I can do over $1,000, I just didn't want do like $1,100+. Just easier if I say the limit is a specific number, know what I mean?

But this is definitely great. Thank you so much for this. I'll spend some time looking at this (I'm like a retarded monkey when it comes to this stuff so I have to look it over, lol) and get back to you if this is what I go with. Again, thank you.

EDIT: Unless I'm missing something does this still need a CD/DVD drive? Or is there a way for me to install Windows without one?

Windows can be installed via USB drive, Microsoft officially supports it. It's faster than installing from disc and you save the cost of needing to buy a DVD drive that you might not ever use. Here's a guide for downloading and creating a Windows installation USB drive. All you need is a spare 4GB or larger USB drive.

Finally building a new PC, but man it's been a day of surprises. It never occurred to me that a 3.5" HDD might be incompatible with every 3.5" disk mount in a case that has four of them. Thus the improvised angled mounting. I hope it won't hurt the drive.
Also, Noctua listed the ROG Impact VIII as compatible with the U12S, but the fit was so tight that I was sure the cooler would twist the sound card crooked on the mobo. Ended up installing the cooler sideways at least for now. It just barely clears everything that way.

SSD and PSU going in tomorrow. For the GPU I'm getting a cheap used GTX770 to tide me over, planning to upgrade to Pascal (980Ti caliber or faster) immediately when it's out.

I'm not sure what case that is, but I think you put in the hard drive backwards. The hard drive's ports should be facing the other direction?

Thanks that's handy I found this one: https://www.alternate.de/Digitus/7-...0-Soundkarte/html/product/692598?tk=7&lk=8583

Seems like it won't get much cheaper than 25€. If I go for an internal one, I can stick a 1x PCI-E card into my second PCI-E x16 slot right? Because I feel a sound-card won't fit right above my GFX card since it has a metal bracket. Then again I guess I could get a PCI one too.

Yeah, PCI-E is compatible regardless of x1 or x16, as long as it fits into the slot it will work. A PCI sound card is an option as well, but I'm not sure if there are any new ones that are still made for PCI slots. They might be older models.

I don't know anything about the Digitus brand, but if the reviews are good, go for it.

 

[xplicitone]

ATX motherboard though?


Remove the CMOS battery on your motherboard, leave it out for a minute, then put it back in.

No issues at all.,

Thanks, trying that now. If it doesn't work, could I possibly get a new CMOS battery and try that?

 

[mkenyon]

Thanks, trying that now. If it doesn't work, could I possibly get a new CMOS battery and try that?

Nah, new battery wouldn't change anything. Just completely clearing the CMOS often fixes little issues like that.

 

[xplicitone]

Nah, new battery wouldn't change anything. Just completely clearing the CMOS often fixes little issues like that.

Yes that worked, THANKS!!!!!!

 

[Skyfireblaze]

Yeah, you can use any PCI-Express card at a PCI-E slot.
Should work even if it's 1x. Depends if your mainboard supports PCI input, what mainboard do you have?

Alright that's what I wanted to know And I have ASRock Z77 Pro 3 which has one PCI-E 1x slot, one PCI-E 16x slot, one PCI-E 8x slot and three PCI slots so that should work too.

 

[Walpurgis]

I know that this isn't the thread but laptop gaf is dead so I'm trying my luck here.

Country where it will be purchased.
Canada
Maximum budget.
$400
Max size (can be in screen inches, dimensions, weight).
15.6 inches.
Planned usage (what kind of games or specific games it must run, if heavily gaming at all).
School work (i.e. Office) and internet browsing.
Ideally you'll point out what resolution and settings are your standard, based off of what I've laid out in the OP.
Resolution doesn't matter. I'm not sure about settings.
Whatever else you find relevant, misc. things such as desired battery life, screen resolution, fan noise, etc.
Ideally, the fan would run quiet and battery life would be at least 4 hours.

I've been searching online but I feel overwhelmed and I don't want to fall for any traps that laptop manufacturers pull (e.g. high ram but garbage something else).

Is there a place where I can get a custom-made laptop without an OS? Or are custom-made laptops more money?

 

[Out 1]

I'm replacing my trusty old 15-inch rMBP with a 12-inch Macbook (I need a glorified typewriter, basically). For obvious reasons, the new Mac cannot be my primary device. Thus, this mockup of a build. I need it mainly for video editing (nothing too intensive, like 10-bit 4K workflow), and playing some games.

url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Rk7JjX]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.87 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99M-GAMING 5 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($186.13 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($178.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Arctic White MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1187.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 17:34 EST-0500

I need a smaller form factor of mATX or mini ITX for relative portability, plus the case needs to be aesthetically pleasing. Though I'll ask a friend for help building it as I have no experience in this. Few questions:

1. Are my choices of MB, PSU and CPU cooler reasonable, or are there better alternatives? Ways to spend money more efficiently?
2. I've read good and bad things about this particular case (Prodigy M), so I'd be grateful for more opinions (heat distribution, cable management, ease of build).
3. Do I need faster RAM? 32gb?

p.s. the storage is only a placeholder, I haven't put any thought into that yet.

 

[inner-G]

I'm replacing my trusty old 15-inch rMBP with a 12-inch Macbook (I need a glorified typewriter, basically). For obvious reasons, the new Mac cannot be my primary device. Thus, this mockup of a build. I need it mainly for video editing (nothing too intensive, like 10-bit 4K workflow).

url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Rk7JjX]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.87 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99M-GAMING 5 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($186.13 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($178.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Arctic White MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1187.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 17:34 EST-0500

I need a smaller form factor of mATX or mini ITX for relative portability, plus the case needs to be aesthetically pleasing. Though I'll ask a friend for help building it as I have no experience in this. Few questions:

1. Are my choices of MB, PSU and CPU cooler reasonable, or are there better alternatives? Ways to spend money more efficiently?
2. I've read good and bad things about this particular case (Prodigy M), so I'd be grateful for more opinions (heat distribution, cable management, ease of build).
3. Do I need faster RAM? 32gb?

p.s. the storage is only a placeholder, I haven't put any thought into that yet.

Whatever you edit in, make sure your GPU supports it fully.

IIRC, FCPX can take more advantage of a AMD GPU, but Adobe stuff like After Effects/Premiere have acceleration for CUDA cores in Nvidia GPUs

 

[RGM79]

I know that this isn't the thread but laptop gaf is dead so I'm trying my luck here.

I've been searching online but I feel overwhelmed and I don't want to fall for any traps that laptop manufacturers pull (e.g. high ram but garbage something else).

Is there a place where I can get a custom-made laptop without an OS? Or are custom-made laptops more money?

Barebone laptops that you could add parts to used to be a more common thing, but it's not as popular now and it does get quite expensive. Does that $400 include taxes?

I'm moving an old media pc into it. I have a bunch of external drives that I want to make internal. Because it's a media pc, a small case would be nice. I have no use for optical drives, which is why I think I can probably make it work.

Aside from being able to fit 5hdds and 1sdd, I don't have any major preferences. It'll have a 670 in it, so fans are kinda important, but not too major.

What are your PC's specs? If we recommend anything, it'll have to be able to fit your motherboard, CPU cooler, power supply, and graphics card. Model numbers would be great for figuring out specifics.

 

[OldAsUrSock]

how applicable are the build prices in the OP to the UK? I'm currently rocking an i3-3220 and a 7850, and I have some money to spend so I figured the time is now to upgrade. I built my PC nearly 4 years ago. my computer isn't particularly slow, but I think the dual core is really holding me back and the 7850 isn't the best either.

7850 especially OC to 1200 should last until the new GPUs release

 

[Walpurgis]

Barebone laptops that you could add parts to used to be a more common thing, but it's not as popular now and it does get quite expensive. Does that $400 include taxes?

Yes, taxes included.

 

[Vitanimus]

7850 especially OC to 1200 should last until the new GPUs release

Oh really? would an upgrade to a 970 be an unnecessary investment?

 

[Out 1]

Whatever you edit in, make sure your GPU supports it fully.

IIRC, FCPX can take more advantage of a AMD GPU, but Adobe stuff like After Effects/Premiere have acceleration for CUDA cores in Nvidia GPUs

That's a good point, thank you. I mainly edit in Avid, but I should probably get Nvidia graphics just for AE and Premiere.

 

[RGM79]

I'm replacing my trusty old 15-inch rMBP with a 12-inch Macbook (I need a glorified typewriter, basically). For obvious reasons, the new Mac cannot be my primary device. Thus, this mockup of a build. I need it mainly for video editing (nothing too intensive, like 10-bit 4K workflow), and playing some games.

url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Rk7JjX]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L12 37.8 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.87 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99M-GAMING 5 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($186.13 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($178.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Arctic White MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1187.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 17:34 EST-0500

I need a smaller form factor of mATX or mini ITX for relative portability, plus the case needs to be aesthetically pleasing. Though I'll ask a friend for help building it as I have no experience in this. Few questions:

1. Are my choices of MB, PSU and CPU cooler reasonable, or are there better alternatives? Ways to spend money more efficiently?
2. I've read good and bad things about this particular case (Prodigy M), so I'd be grateful for more opinions (heat distribution, cable management, ease of build).
3. Do I need faster RAM? 32gb?

p.s. the storage is only a placeholder, I haven't put any thought into that yet.

There's some changes that can be made to better suit your build for price and performance. Here's my version of your parts list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock X99M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($168.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Redline 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($178.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Arctic White MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1115.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 19:11 EST-0500

• That Gigabyte motherboard you chose doesn't have a lot of good reviews. I picked an alternate one that has a few more reviews and tends to be more positive.
• The Cryorig H5 CPU cooler is more effective than that compact Noctua cooler, and costs less to boot.
• The Mushkin 4x4GB RAM kit is cheaper and faster than that 2x8GB kit of G.Skill RAM.
• No need for a small form factor PSU in the Prodigy M case. I chose something cheaper and better.

Some things to note: You seem to be buying the processor from Microcenter, so you should consider getting the motherboard from there as well. I believe they will knock $20 off your bill for buying any compatible motherboard and processor at the same time.

Alternatively stick with 2x8GB RAM if you feel you want to leave room to add more RAM in the future. I believe 16GB is already enough for your needs, though.

Edit: As far as I know, both Premiere and After Effects no longer only benefit from Nvidia graphics cards. AMD graphics cards will work. They don't quite accelerate the same features though, so to be more precise see here for what CUDA and OpenCL will do for Adobe Premiere. The article is a bit dated, so take a look at this as well, although I'm not certain what their sources are.

An Nvidia graphics card to recommend would be this Gigabyte GTX 960 4GB model for $190 after $20 rebate.

 

[OldAsUrSock]

Oh really? would an upgrade to a 970 be an unnecessary investment?

Depends. Do you want to run games at 970 level right now or wait until Q3 for better than 970? If you can't wait then it isn't a bad choice.

 

[bomblord1]

Finally building a new PC, but man it's been a day of surprises. It never occurred to me that a 3.5" HDD might be incompatible with every 3.5" disk mount in a case that has four of them. Thus the improvised angled mounting. I hope it won't hurt the drive.
Also, Noctua listed the ROG Impact VIII as compatible with the U12S, but the fit was so tight that I was sure the cooler would twist the sound card crooked on the mobo. Ended up installing the cooler sideways at least for now. It just barely clears everything that way.

SSD and PSU going in tomorrow. For the GPU I'm getting a cheap used GTX770 to tide me over, planning to upgrade to Pascal (980Ti caliber or faster) immediately when it's out.

My word that is a cooler xD. Anyway nice build.

 

[Out 1]

There's some changes that can be made to better suit your build for price and performance. Here's my version of your parts list:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($319.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Universal 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock X99M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($168.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Redline 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($178.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Arctic White MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($91.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1115.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 19:11 EST-0500

• That Gigabyte motherboard you chose doesn't have a lot of good reviews. I picked an alternate one that has a few more reviews and tends to be more positive.
• The Cryorig H5 CPU cooler is more effective than that compact Noctua cooler, and costs less to boot.
• The Mushkin 4x4GB RAM kit is cheaper and faster than that 2x8GB kit of G.Skill RAM.
• No need for a small form factor PSU in the Prodigy M case. I chose something cheaper and better.

Some things to note: You seem to be buying the processor from Microcenter, so you should consider getting the motherboard from there as well. I believe they will knock $20 off your bill for buying any compatible motherboard and processor at the same time.

Alternatively stick with 2x8GB RAM if you feel you want to leave room to add more RAM in the future. I believe 16GB is already enough for your needs, though.

Edit: As far as I know, both Premiere and After Effects no longer only benefit from Nvidia graphics cards. AMD graphics cards will work. They don't quite accelerate the same features though, so to be more precise see here for what CUDA and OpenCL will do for Adobe Premiere. The article is a bit dated, so take a look at this as well, although I'm not certain what their sources are.

An Nvidia graphics card to recommend would be this Gigabyte GTX 960 4GB model for $190 after $20 rebate.

thanks for taking the time. I took note of your suggestions and tweaked my list, though I'll probably stick to 2x8 just to keep my options open. thought that PSU might be an overkill.

I remembered Adobe having CUDA support, but if that's the case I'll keep AMD. I'd get either 390 or 970, but I don't feel like spending 300 on graphics when there are new GPUs around the corner.

 

[Bloodember]

I've been Googling around, and I can't quite find a definitive answer.

Does anybody know how many hard drives this thing can hold? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119265

I need space for 1 SSD, and 5 HDDs. Will this case work? I'm thinking I might be able to rig the optical drive slots if needed. If not, anybody know of anything similar?

The specs say 4 internal 3.5" bays and 4 3.5" external bays, so you have 8 bays for hdd's.

 

[Flaxh]

'll fit. When people say it doesn't fit, they're just looking at the numbers.. and they're not exactly wrong. The Ripjaws RAM is 40mm tall and the 212 Evo normally allows for only 37mm of space underneath the CPU cooler fan. The nice thing about the 212 Evo cooler is that the fan can be clipped on a bit higher to accommodate taller RAM underneath the fan, just like what this person did with his 212 Evo and Ripjaws RAM.

Looking at your PC's specs, you should be fine. The processor is not really outdated or anything, if you need more performance out of it, you should overclock it if it isn't already overclocked. With a new graphics card, it should meet that minimum requirement for VR just fine. The 9000 score requirement is a combination of both the processor and graphics performance.

I bought those RAMs today and installed them, thanks for the tip! Great price.

While I was installing I noted that the interior of my rig had a lot of dust and decided to clean it so I went back to the store and bought a can of compressed air and cleaned the filters and so on.

I decided to check temps to see if everything was ok as I got a little scarred with all that dust and I'm getting temps of 46ºC while using chrome and Discord only. Just tested TW3 with everything @Ultra locked 30FPS and the CPU hit around 65 while the max was 70ºC. Should I be worried? It seems too high for this CPU + Hyper 212 Evo. I've yet to replace the thermal paste after 32 months.

Here are some pictures of my rig:

Before: http://imgur.com/a/SZx3s

After: http://imgur.com/a/eZc31

I should probably look for a way to improve airflow.

 

[opticalmace]

I bought those RAMs today and installed them, thanks for the tip! Great price.

While I was installing I noted that the interior of my rig had a lot of dust and decided to clean it so I went back to the store and bought a can of compressed air and cleaned the filters and so on.

I decided to check temps to see if everything was ok as I got a little scarred with all that dust and I'm getting temps of 46ºC while using chrome and Discord only. Just tested TW3 with everything @Ultra locked 30FPS and the CPU hit around 65 while the max was 70ºC. Should I be worried? It seems too high for this CPU + Hyper 212 Evo. I've yet to replace the thermal paste after 32 months.

Here are some pictures of my rig:

Before: http://imgur.com/a/SZx3s

After: http://imgur.com/a/eZc31

I should probably look for a way to improve airflow.

70C is totally fine.

 

[Kieli]

So I'm upgrading from 8.1 to 10, and now I'm stuck on 32% for the last 4 hours.

?....

 

[RGM79]

I bought those RAMs today and installed them, thanks for the tip! Great price.

While I was installing I noted that the interior of my rig had a lot of dust and decided to clean it so I went back to the store and bought a can of compressed air and cleaned the filters and so on.

I decided to check temps to see if everything was ok as I got a little scarred with all that dust and I'm getting temps of 46ºC while using chrome and Discord only. Just tested TW3 with everything @Ultra locked 30FPS and the CPU hit around 65 while the max was 70ºC. Should I be worried? It seems too high for this CPU + Hyper 212 Evo. I've yet to replace the thermal paste after 32 months.

Here are some pictures of my rig:

Before: http://imgur.com/a/SZx3s

After: http://imgur.com/a/eZc31

I should probably look for a way to improve airflow.

Hmm, 46 degrees seems kinda high for just web browsing and a chat program. However, 65~70 degrees Celsius for games is nothing. That's very safe. You don't have to worry unless it's 80~90 degrees or higher.

When you installed the new RAM, did you take off the CPU cooler to get to the RAM slots? If it's been a while and you took it off, then you should apply new thermal paste.

So I'm upgrading from 8.1 to 10, and now I'm stuck on 32% for the last 4 hours.

?....

I had a computer at work that seemed to be stuck for ages during the Windows 10 upgrade. I left it on overnight and it was fine the next day, though.

 

[Jzero]

NVIDIA HBM cards can't come soon enough. I just returned my second artifact-y R9 Fury.

I wonder how much longer i have to wait though.

 

[Wowfunhappy]

EDIT: Unless I'm missing something does this still need a CD/DVD drive? Or is there a way for me to install Windows without one?

You don't need a dvd drive, but if you happen to want one, I can send it to you for the cost of shipping. Was using it up until a few months ago when I got a BluRay drive.

(Offer goes for everyone btw, I posted about it before and got no response. I should probably just throw it out, but it feels like a waist...)

 

[Broadbandito]

Best 970 to get?

and for some reason the zotac(s) do not include he division which is kind of pushing me away from them. They look like the best buys IMO though.

 

[EVA UNIT 01]

Best 970 to get?

and for some reason the zotac(s) do not include he division which is kind of pushing me away from them. They look like the best buys IMO though.

Wait what?
I have a Zotac 970 from newegg in my cart with the division...

Is it just this shop?

 

[andrerobot]

Thanks for reviewing my part list! I'll take a look at the other cases during the night.

Is there anything similar in terms of performance and noise to a D15, but with a smaller footprint? I'd go for water-cooling if there was something silent (no annoying pump noise).

Alright, I think I'll go with the following:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($364.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($79.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($297.49 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Nanoxia NXDS4B MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($80.00 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1932.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-19 02:27 EST-0500

I changed the case to a Deep Silence 4. I would have liked a Desire Mini instead of this, due to having more airflow (I think you can mount a 2x120 radiator on the front), but my OCD doesn't allow me to ignore that the lower drive rack wouldn't allow me to use long cards in the lower PCIE 16x slot.

I'm also going with a Noctua NH-U12S instead of a D15S, which seems to be decent.

Oh, the GPU I'll buy it later... I mean, I spend more time discussing games that playing them

 

[sfried]

Does anybody have experience with a Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet Slim CPU fan and a mATX/ITX motherboard? If anyone has, how much clearance is required for the RAM to fit just under it? I was thinking of getting some G-Skill Ripjaws V series DDR4 2400 RAM to fit underneath it (due to mobo orientation), but wasn't sure if the heat spreader would make the clearance.

 

[RGM79]

Alright, I think I'll go with the following:

I changed the case to a Deep Silence 4. I would have liked a Desire Mini instead of this, due to having more airflow (I think you can mount a 2x120 radiator on the front), but my OCD doesn't allow me to ignore that the lower drive rack wouldn't allow me to use long cards in the lower PCIE 16x slot.

I'm also going with a Noctua NH-U12S instead of a D15S, which seems to be decent.

Oh, the GPU I'll buy it later... I mean, I spend more time discussing games that playing them

Expensive, but it works. I know you said you'll buy the graphics card later, but I'll just say that $650 for that EVGA Superclocked+ model isn't great when the faster EVGA FTW+ is $640 at Amazon. No idea when you're buying.

Does anybody have experience with a Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet Slim CPU fan and a mATX/ITX motherboard? If anyone has, how much clearance is required for the RAM to fit just under it? I was thinking of getting some G-Skill Ripjaws V series DDR4 2400 RAM to fit underneath it (due to mobo orientation), but wasn't sure if the heat spreader would make the clearance.

If it does hang over a RAM slot, I don't think you'll be able to fit anything in that slot unless it's super low profile (~30mm?). That page is in Russian, but they did test it on a socket 1150 motherboard. Not sure if it's possible to rotate the cooler so the side without the heatpipe is facing the RAM slot, and even then I'm not sure if that gives enough clearance. Some motherboards might place their RAM slots slightly further away.

The Zalman cooler is 60mm tall.. I know Corsair LPX RAM is 31mm tall. Can't quite eyeball it to see if it'll work, it's too close to call. Maybe you'll even have to consider RAM that don't come with heatspreaders.

 

[Hidden One]

Guys I need help..My PC turns on but it won't boot up..I have no idea what to do

I built it back in July

 

[hooijdonk17]

Are there any $130-$150 mid-tier cards in the pipeline that would make buying an R7 370 a poor choice these days? Will there be Pascal/Polaris parts for this tier, or will they basically be rebrands again? I recently upgraded from a 900p monitor to a 1080p monitor and the 7770 1GB no longer cuts it..

 

[hooijdonk17]

Guys I need help..My PC turns on but it won't boot up..I have no idea what to do

I built it back in July

What do you mean by 'turn on' and 'boot up'? Do the fans spin? Do you get any video signal to the monitor? Do you see a POST screen? Does Windows start loading? Do you get any error codes? These might be beeps if you have a built in pc speaker, or flashes if you have a status led on the mainboard?

 

[Jirotrom]

Hey folks, I got an issue... When I turn on my lap top everything powers on except for the screen... Though when I hook the thing to my tv via hdmi... The screen shows up on the tv... Please tell me this just means the lcd is out. If so, does anyone know good options for replacement?

 

[Hidden One]

What do you mean by 'turn on' and 'boot up'? Do the fans spin? Do you get any video signal to the monitor? Do you see a POST screen? Does Windows start loading? Do you get any error codes? These might be beeps if you have a built in pc speaker, or flashes if you have a status led on the mainboard?

Like it boots up but I get no display on the monitor. The fans are spinning. I got a new monitor today and I was doing some trouble shooting to see if I could get rid of the slight ghosting I was getting. I went for a reboot and now nothing. I even hooked up my old monitor again and still the same problem. I have no idea what happened..

 

[xJavonta]

Hey folks, I got an issue... When I turn on my lap top everything powers on except for the screen... Though when I hook the thing to my tv via hdmi... The screen shows up on the tv... Please tell me this just means the lcd is out. If so, does anyone know good options for replacement?

Try plugging it into the tv and pulling up the display settings to see if the computer is detecting both the display and the TV

 

[Jirotrom]

Try plugging it into the tv and pulling up the display settings to see if the computer is detecting both the display and the TV

What confirms this? Thanks btw

 

[hooijdonk17]

Like it boots up but I get no display on the monitor. The fans are spinning. I got a new monitor today and I was doing some trouble shooting to see if I could get rid of the slight ghosting I was getting. I went for a reboot and now nothing. I even hooked up my old monitor again and still the same problem. I have no idea what happened..

Define 'boots up' please, does Windows (or whatever OS you use) load but you get no video signal? Do you get a clear POST beep and hard disk activity? Is the problem just that you get no video signal after changing monitors, or is the OS not loading at all?

 

[hooijdonk17]

What confirms this? Thanks btw

Right click desktop, select Screen Resolution, in the Display pulldown you should see 2 monitor options, not just the TV. If you see only one, try hitting Detect a couple of times to see if anything changes. If nothing works it's possible that your laptop LCD screen died.