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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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mkenyon

Banned
Alright folks, one way or another my CPU socket on my ASRock P67 Pro3 MoBo is mangled. I need a new motherboard, and I'm unfortunately quite low on funds.

Parts: GTX 960, i5 3570k, 2x4GB GSkill DDR3-1600, Need 4 SATA slots for Hard drives and optical drive, and my case currently needs 3-4 Chassis fan slots and 1-2 CPU fan slots.

The pickings seem really slim at this point, and I'm kind of at a loss. Any suggestions are more than welcome.
**
Oh, I should mention I would rather not go with ASRock if possible. I've had 2 motherboards from them now and they both have given me endless grief.
Check out used parts at overclock.net, /r/hardwareswap, or hardocp b/s/t forum.

Should be able to pick up a P67/Z68/Z77 board for pretty cheap. I don't *think* I have any at home, but I'll check and post up later tonight if I do.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Zotac Premium Edition 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card ($150.00)
Case: DIYPC D480-BK ATX Mid Tower Case ($48.79 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($20.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $725.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-17 18:12 EST-0500


Friend needs a new pc. He offered me $150 for my 7970 (so that is covered). He is mainly buying for photoshop/illustrator use and to step foot into pc gaming. Any changes /recommendations? The case will support the monster size of the 7970. He didn't want anything fancy. Would like to keep around same price (anyway to maximize the total?)
 
This may be a stupid question, but what does it take to run 4k and everything maxed and 60fps on newer triple AAA games? Is there even a card that does that? rite now I have 2 980ti sli and it seems that even in games that support SLI I can't come anywhere near to hitting that. Cards seem to be working fine as in most games I get at least 60fps and everything maxed at 1080p when I run Unigine valley it seems to be hitting average of 160 fps. Rest of my PC is I7@4790@4.0ghz@32 GB ram@ 2 980ti SLI. So is there no cards that really offer what I'm askin? Sorry stil kind of new to PC gaming, and I don't have allot of knowledge about PCs in general, although I'm learning lol. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions
What games are you playing? Some lean heavier on the GPU or CPU when it comes to framerate, but the absolutely most demanding games cannot be maxed out at 4K and 60FPS at the moment, even on a twin GTX 980 Ti setup. HardOCP tested the strongest flagship graphics cards from AMD and Nvidia in SLI/crossfire and it still isn't enough.

Theoretically, what if you were to get, say, a Quadro M6000? Obviously wouldn't make any sense from a price/performance perspective, but if you were, say, Notch...
 
Check out used parts at overclock.net, /r/hardwareswap, or hardocp b/s/t forum.

Should be able to pick up a P67/Z68/Z77 board for pretty cheap. I don't *think* I have any at home, but I'll check and post up later tonight if I do.
Good plan, thanks for the ideas.
 

bomblord1

Banned
Looking to pick up a Z170 motherboard but can't quite decide between these:

Asus Maximus VIII Gene
https://www.asus.com/uk/Motherboards/MAXIMUS-VIII-GENE/
Asus Z170-Pro
http://www.asus.com/UK/Motherboards/Z170-PRO/

The price difference is literally £5 between them and I really like Asus motherboards as I've never had problems in the past. Can't seem to find much on the Pro since all the reviews seem to be for the Pro Gaming, which is not this model.

The Z170 seems like an all around board going by the listed specs on the site.

1. It's a Z170
2. Supports Higher OC on RAM
3. Faster USB 3.1 transfer speeds
4. "One click" OC'ing (whatever that means)

On top of a bunch of other claims like "superior surge protection" that the other doesn't have. If there is really only a 5 difference then go with the Z170
 

mkenyon

Banned
Out of curiosity, why have you selected those three in specific? Local store or something like that?

Definitely still the ASUS over the EVGA. But, there are less expensive X99 boards that would be a better buy in general.
 

Lonely1

Unconfirmed Member
Out of curiosity, why have you selected those three in specific? Local store or something like that?

Definitely still the ASUS over the EVGA. But, there are less expensive X99 boards that would be a better buy in general.

They are pretty much the only options from Amazon Mexico, where I currently have 10% of discount on any purchase. The EVGA is around $170 cheaper than the ASUS.

Thanks a lot for your input.
 

Kelsdesu

Member
I recently finished my rig (thanks GAF) and I have left over parts I never used ( a mid tower, power supply and motherboard). My question is: What you guys do with the parts besides sell them. I really want to use it for something. I just don't know what. Maybe a strait Linux machine.

I basically need to drop $230 for cheap parts to finish it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
At $170 cheaper, I'd go for the EVGA probably. Most of the BIOS issues have been worked out on it, and it's a pretty well received board.
 
You could get a sound card if you wanted, but you can just use this $13 adaptor to get S/PDIF optical from a header on your motherboard. Your motherboard does support S/PDIF, they just cheaped out and didn't include the connector at the back of the motherboard. The screenshot of the manual page you posted shows where to plug it in, and here's a picture of your motherboard with the actual port circled in red:

taihcI8.jpg

Is there anyway to buy these things in Germany other than importing it from Amazon.com? I've looked high and low and I can't find these things anywhere. Would love one to be able to connect my PS4 over optical :/
 
Sorry what? That's an optical out for your PC mobo.

Oh I meant a optical input like that. I have a In/Out one on my X-Fi but that is used for my headset. Currently I transmit audio from my PS4 to my PC via LINE-IN 3.5mm which sounds okay but I wager optical would sound better.
 
I just bought my first graphics card in about 8 years. I decided to go with the evga gtx ac asx 970 and it is quite loud.

I am using Nvidia game stream via the Shield Android TV while playing the new tomb raider game. The temperature is at around 80 degrees Celsius.

Are fans this loud normal?
 

Apoptomon

Member
Hi PC-GAF, apologies for long post and I'm not sure if this is really the right place to ask, but... Anyway I've been looking around for a new PC and so far I've been given two quotes (I'm not familiar enough with components to collect parts myself). I wanted an opinion on which was the better offer (they seem to have pros and cons both, but its all just letters and numbers to me):

Option 1 said:
CPU: i5-6400 2.7ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte H110m-H
RAM: 8gb Kingston DDR4
HDD: WD 1TB caviar blue
SSD: SanDisk SSD Plus 120gb
CD: LG 24x DVD+-R
GPU: MSI gtx960 4gb
PSU: casecom 700W PSU 80+
Case: Corsair carbide 200r
OS: Win 10 home 64bit
PRICE: AUD $1589

Option 2 said:
CPU: i5-6500 3.2ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170-hd3
RAM: 2x Corsair 8gb DDR4
CD: LG 24x DVD+-R/RW
GPU: Gigabyte gtx950 OC 2gb
PSU: coolermaster b2700W PSU 80+
Case: Corsair 230t
OS: Win 10 home 64bit
PRICE: AUD $1549
I'm told I can also use my existing HDD. I guess really what I'm not sure of is which CPU/GPU to go with. I'd be using it for gaming (eg MMOs, RPGs), Office, photoshop, etc. Any opinion would be appreciated.
 

Qblivion

Member
Who makes an affordable external sound card that isn't garbage? None of the ports on the motherboard work. Don't need anything fancy, just one that wont break and doesn't sound like butt.
 
My computer died recently and I'm the process of rebuilding it. I suspect the old motherboard died, because it just went dead one day and would not power up. I test two PSUs, both worked fine, but the computer still would not power on. I've now replaced the motherboard and am using a newer PSU. Everything powers on and fans spin, but I get no POST or video output. I've tried swapping/removing RAM, clearing CMOS, disconnecting hard drives, GPU, reseated CPU. I'm at my wits end. The only strange thing I can think of is that the latch on the CPU socket goes down without any effort and I can pull out the CPU even with the latch down. Can anyone help?
 
My computer died recently and I'm the process of rebuilding it. I suspect the old motherboard died, because it just went dead one day and would not power up. I test two PSUs, both worked fine, but the computer still would not power on. I've now replaced the motherboard and am using a newer PSU. Everything powers on and fans spin, but I get no POST or video output. I've tried swapping/removing RAM, clearing CMOS, disconnecting hard drives, GPU, reseated CPU. I'm at my wits end. The only strange thing I can think of is that the latch on the CPU socket goes down without any effort and I can pull out the CPU even with the latch down. Can anyone help?

You can pull the CPU out at will? That's kind of insane. That's definitely the problem. Could you provide a picture or something? Were you able to freely remove it on the old motherboard too? Did you have a cooler on it? I am confused.
 
You can pull the CPU out at will? That's kind of insane. That's definitely the problem. Could you provide a picture or something? Were you able to freely remove it on the old motherboard too? Did you have a cooler on it? I am confused.

Yeah, I thought it was really weird too. I have a Hyper 212 connected. The CPU was secure on the old mobo. On the new mobo, I dropped in the CPU, pushed down the latch, no effort. Then I go to move the cooler to make sure it's secure and the cooler comes off with the cpu attached to the bottom of it by the thermal paste.

edit: awesome, I just bent a bunch of pins on the cpu while removing it.
 
Hey guys, quick question that I don't know where to ask elsewhere:

MSI afterburner is reporting different GPU temperatures for my GTX 980 ti in the game overlay and the hardware monitor itself. In the actual hardware monitor my temps hover around the low 80s in-game, where as my overlay in-game sit at about 70-71. Is there a way to know which is correct? I'm assuming it's the low 80s in the hardware monitor that's correct but I'm confused as to why they're not consistent with each other.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Had to look at Z97 mobos again. Shoot me. All this budget trash and cost saving everywhere.
Who wants to kickstart a motherboard that is QA tested with reliable parts? I'd easily pay another $30.
Yeah, I thought it was really weird too. I have a Hyper 212 connected. The CPU was secure on the old mobo. On the new mobo, I dropped in the CPU, pushed down the latch, no effort. Then I go to move the cooler to make sure it's secure and the cooler comes off with the cpu attached to the bottom of it by the thermal paste.

edit: awesome, I just bent a bunch of pins on the cpu while removing it.
Well if your CPU has pins, time for a new one :p
Usually the latch needs to 'catch' and then it'll give pressure to lock. Pics would be good probably. And you can straighten CPU pins if the socket isn't damaged.
Hey guys, quick question that I don't know where to ask elsewhere:

MSI afterburner is reporting different GPU temperatures for my GTX 980 ti in the game overlay and the hardware monitor itself. In the actual hardware monitor my temps hover around the low 80s in-game, where as my overlay in-game sit at about 70-71. Is there a way to know which is correct? I'm assuming it's the low 80s in the hardware monitor that's correct but I'm confused as to why they're not consistent with each other.
Is one CORE and one CARD maybe?
 

Lonely1

Unconfirmed Member
A few questions. Is the x99 being phased out? There won't be support for Skylake CPu for the chipset? I like their feature sets better than Z170... Didn't noticed that the 6700K is not compatible before. Would an OC 5820k beat a 6700k, which presumably doens't overclock very well(?).
 

DiscoDave

Member
Can someone help me I have recently got myself a i5 2500k pc of someone a friend knows for a good price. I plan on getting a gtx 970 for it this week as it has a gtx 560 in at the moment. I was wondering that if I overclock the i5 in a couple of weeks will the PSU be enough for it. It's a 600 watt 80+ and also it has 8gb 1333 memory, will this slower memory affect how much I can overclock the CPU to. I was hoping to get 4.2 OC from the 2500k with a evo 212, will this PSU be enough and should I upgrade my memory first or is 1333 ok.
 

RGM79

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Total: $559.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-17 15:56 EST-0500

Looking for some input on on a psu. The 7970 says a minimum of 500. Can I safely go with a EVGA 210-GQ-0650-V1 650W or be extra safe and do EVGA 220-G2-0750-XR 80 PLUS GOLD 750W or FSP Group Hydro G Series HG750 750W ?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Total: $725.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-17 18:12 EST-0500

Friend needs a new pc. He offered me $150 for my 7970 (so that is covered). He is mainly buying for photoshop/illustrator use and to step foot into pc gaming. Any changes /recommendations? The case will support the monster size of the 7970. He didn't want anything fancy. Would like to keep around same price (anyway to maximize the total?)

Get the EVGA B2 750 watt ($57 after $20 rebate at Newegg), you won't find a better PSU for that much money.

Hmm, you know what, there's better parts and prices you can get, even if you choose to go with Newegg only. Here's what I recommend:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H-A Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Stealth 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($56.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $501.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 01:12 EST-0500

Is a DVD drive really needed?

Ok thank u, and that's crazy that a setup like that can't run GTA V maxed at 4K, that helps clarify things. I've noticed even with my setup at 1080p and everything maxed I drop down to like 45fps with certain games. I guess that depends how well optimized the game for PC as well? I've been having trouble with Tomb Raider to keep it stable 60fps with that setup and everything maxed, but I noticed in the ROTR forum that allot of people are having some issues with it. So it just depends on a game by game basis?
For the most part I do hold steady at 60fps or higher with everything maxed and 1080p

Yeah, some games are just better optimized, or don't need strong hardware. Of course, 1080p is easier to get a higher framerate in than 4K.
 
A few questions. Is the x99 being phased out? There won't be support for Skylake CPu for the chipset? I like their feature sets better than Z170... Didn't noticed that the 6700K is not compatible before. Would an OC 5820k beat a 6700k, which presumably doens't overclock very well(?).

X99 will support Broadwell-E when it releases later this year, so it's not getting phased out. It's on the enthusiast Intel line, different from the mainstream Z170 platform. The 6700k is a better overclocker and will beat the 5820k in single threaded tasks, but the 5820k has more cores.

Can someone help me I have recently got myself a i5 2500k pc of someone a friend knows for a good price. I plan on getting a gtx 970 for it this week as it has a gtx 560 in at the moment. I was wondering that if I overclock the i5 in a couple of weeks will the PSU be enough for it. It's a 600 watt 80+ and also it has 8gb 1333 memory, will this slower memory affect how much I can overclock the CPU to. I was hoping to get 4.2 OC from the 2500k with a evo 212, will this PSU be enough and should I upgrade my memory first or is 1333 ok.

600 watts is fine. As is the memory. You'll definitely be able to get 4.2 with a 212.
 

RGM79

Member
I just bought my first graphics card in about 8 years. I decided to go with the evga gtx ac asx 970 and it is quite loud.

I am using Nvidia game stream via the Shield Android TV while playing the new tomb raider game. The temperature is at around 80 degrees Celsius.

Are fans this loud normal?

What are your PC's specs? Sounds like it is getting too hot inside your case. Use HWInfo or HWMonitor to see how hot the rest of your PC is running.

Is there anyway to buy these things in Germany other than importing it from Amazon.com? I've looked high and low and I can't find these things anywhere. Would love one to be able to connect my PS4 over optical :/

Oh I meant a optical input like that. I have a In/Out one on my X-Fi but that is used for my headset. Currently I transmit audio from my PS4 to my PC via LINE-IN 3.5mm which sounds okay but I wager optical would sound better.

What are your PC's specs? Have to make sure your motherboard supports that first. Not sure if it's output or input only. I found this, but it has a single one star review.

Edit: I've got it. Use your sound card for PS4 optical input, and use your motherboard's optical output for your headset. No worries about input/output only, now you just need to figure out if your motherboard supports that S/PDIF bracket.

Hi PC-GAF, apologies for long post and I'm not sure if this is really the right place to ask, but... Anyway I've been looking around for a new PC and so far I've been given two quotes (I'm not familiar enough with components to collect parts myself). I wanted an opinion on which was the better offer (they seem to have pros and cons both, but its all just letters and numbers to me):

I'm told I can also use my existing HDD. I guess really what I'm not sure of is which CPU/GPU to go with. I'd be using it for gaming (eg MMOs, RPGs), Office, photoshop, etc. Any opinion would be appreciated.

Are these prebuilt PCs? Is someone offering to build these for you? Option two seems to be the better one.

Who makes an affordable external sound card that isn't garbage? None of the ports on the motherboard work. Don't need anything fancy, just one that wont break and doesn't sound like butt.

Asus Xonar series?

A few questions. Is the x99 being phased out? There won't be support for Skylake CPu for the chipset? I like their feature sets better than Z170... Didn't noticed that the 6700K is not compatible before. Would an OC 5820k beat a 6700k, which presumably doens't overclock very well(?).

No, X99 isn't being discontinued. Broadwell-E is coming to X99 sometime this year.. I think. Whether a 5820K beats a 6700K depends on what they're doing and at what clock speed they're running.

Can someone help me I have recently got myself a i5 2500k pc of someone a friend knows for a good price. I plan on getting a gtx 970 for it this week as it has a gtx 560 in at the moment. I was wondering that if I overclock the i5 in a couple of weeks will the PSU be enough for it. It's a 600 watt 80+ and also it has 8gb 1333 memory, will this slower memory affect how much I can overclock the CPU to. I was hoping to get 4.2 OC from the 2500k with a evo 212, will this PSU be enough and should I upgrade my memory first or is 1333 ok.

What model of power supply do you have? There's not much point in replacing your existing 8GB of 1333MHz RAM, unless you really don't mind spending the extra money.
 
Are there are cases that look like or mimic the Alienware Alpha on the market? Most cases just don't look that attractive to me. Including the Fractals. But I really love the design of the Alpha.
 

Apoptomon

Member
Are these prebuilt PCs? Is someone offering to build these for you? Option two seems to be the better one.
Thanks. And yeah those would be "custom prebuilds" I guess. I gave a couple of computer shops my current pc's specs and asked what they could build / recommend as a replacement.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks. And yeah those would be "custom prebuilds" I guess. I gave a couple of computer shops my current pc's specs and asked what they could build / recommend as a replacement.

If you could give them specified parts, would they be able to order and build it for you?
 

DiscoDave

Member
What are your PC's specs? Sounds like it is getting too hot inside your case. Use HWInfo or HWMonitor to see how hot the rest of your PC is running.





What are your PC's specs? Have to make sure your motherboard supports that first. Not sure if it's output or input only. I found this, but it has a single one star review.

Edit: I've got it. Use your sound card for PS4 optical input, and use your motherboard's optical output for your headset. No worries about input/output only, now you just need to figure out if your motherboard supports that S/PDIF bracket.



Are these prebuilt PCs? Is someone offering to build these for you? Option two seems to be the better one.



Asus Xonar series?



No, X99 isn't being discontinued. Broadwell-E is coming to X99 sometime this year.. I think. Whether a 5820K beats a 6700K depends on what they're doing and at what clock speed they're running.



What model of power supply do you have? There's not much point in replacing your existing 8GB of 1333MHz RAM, unless you really don't mind spending the extra money.

Yea something else was bothered about is the power supply it's a fsp-600 80epn I have never seen them before but did some reading online and it seems it's the actual manufacturer of some top brand power supplys. Don't really want to replace anything anything just yet but if the PSU is not any good I will replace that before I put a 970 in there.
 
I'm looking to upgrade the RAM on my old LGA1366 build (ASUS P6T Deluxe). Am I restricted at all on what DDR3 memory that it can use? I basically just wanted a cheap bump up from 6-8 GB for now.
 

RGM79

Member
Yea something else was bothered about is the power supply it's a fsp-600 80epn I have never seen them before but did some reading online and it seems it's the actual manufacturer of some top brand power supplys. Don't really want to replace anything anything just yet but if the PSU is not any good I will replace that before I put a 970 in there.

Hard to say, can't find many reviews for that specific model. It should hopefully be able to power your PC just fine if you upgrade to a GTX 970, 600 watts is enough as opticalmace says.

I honestly have no idea. What changes would you make?

To keep it simple, basically like option two but with a 4GB model of the GTX 960 or R9 380 instead.

I'm looking to upgrade the RAM on my old LGA1366 build (ASUS P6T Deluxe). Am I restricted at all on what DDR3 memory that it can use? I basically just wanted a cheap bump up from 6-8 GB for now.
Your motherboard's specs indicate what sort of RAM it supports. It says it'll take up to 24GB of RAM at speeds of up to 2000MHz, although 1333/1600/1866MHz is more common. What model of existing RAM do you have? For best compatibility and simplicity, just get more of what you already have.
 
According to tracking all my parts will arrive tomorrow.
Im scared GAF!

Time to utilize my natural ability to fuck things up to fuck up my first PC build =)

If work/time allows im even tempted to stream the trainwreck


Also i made an adjusted version of my build for a friend.
Is this gonna work?

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jY9Y4D
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jY9Y4D/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($111.88 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($314.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Raidmax ATX-321WB (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($40.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $862.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 02:51 EST-0500

No HDD until he has the extra $ to throw in a TB later on.
and hes throwing in win 10.
The only reason im asking is because theres this odd disclaimer at the bottom of the page that wasnt present on my build which states:



"Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders."

Ok?
 

Bluforce

Member
Yesterday I received my new PC parts.

Unfortunately, the heatsink of the i5 6600 make the same noise of a dragster.

It is broken :(

I'm replacing the entire CPU with a new one thanks to Amazon, but I'm still sad :/
 
After 10 years, I was going to build a new PC in December, but I really didn't have the budget.

I'm thinking about getting the following and then get a 980Ti in March:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($364.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($79.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($297.49 @ Micro Center)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($99.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1319.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 00:17 EST-0500

I'm not sure if I'm making the right decision regarding the case, motherboard, and CPU cooler. I'm just looking for something smallish, overclockable, but as silent as possible. (I want it ALL!) LOL

The reason I chose that motherboard is because of the form factor, it supports proper USB 3.1 Gen 2 (and it has a USB type C port too, lol), and seems to be a good board. It supports M.2 2280 drives right? I should check that before buying anything. Now that I think about it I should check the RAM sticks too, cause I have no idea if they're any good.

What I'm not sure though, is if the fan is if the Noctua is worth it. I've read that this brand is pretty good, but I haven't read about the NH-D15S before. This is the silent variant, with the displaced heatsink, and just one fan. I'd like to know if it is any good.

I'd consider water cooling, but aren't all pumps noisy, or eventually get noisy?

And the case, is there anything better in the same price range? I just want something silent, with decent cable management, good airflow, front ports, and small.
 

jediyoshi

Member
Can you add an SSD without reinstalling Windows? I remember I could add HDDs without reinstalling Windows.

Adding it as in just for more storage and not where Windows will now live? The process would be the same as an HDD. If you want Windows on it, technically you can clone it but it's not ideal or a fun process.
 
Adding it as in just for more storage and not where Windows will now live? The process would be the same as an HDD. If you want Windows on it, technically you can clone it but it's not ideal or a fun process.

Ah okay. I now have a 250GB SSD and in the future I want to add another 500GB. So I have to reinstall Windows again, even if Windows is installed on the 250GB SSD ?
 

knitoe

Member
Ah okay. I now have a 250GB SSD and in the future I want to add another 500GB. So I have to reinstall Windows again, even if Windows is installed on the 250GB SSD ?

No. If you are just adding it as another storage device, you don't have to do anything other then activate it, through Windows Disk Management, and format.
 

Zaph

Member
Anyone with a recent Corsair Hydro cooler care to comment on pump noise, and if it's improved at all?

I tried a H60 a few years ago and immediately went back to my Noctua due to the pump preventing my PC from being completely silent at idle (my gaming PC is my workstation several days a week). Changing my case over from a BitFenix Prodigy to a Air 240, and it doesn't look like my NH-U14S will fit, so looking into other options.
 
Anyone with a recent Corsair Hydro cooler care to comment on pump noise, and if it's improved at all?

I tried a H60 a few years ago and immediately went back to my Noctua due to the pump preventing my PC from being completely silent at idle (my gaming PC is my workstation several days a week). Changing my case over from a BitFenix Prodigy to a Air 240, and it doesn't look like my NH-U14S will fit, so looking into other options.

I'm using the H60 2nd edition, and the pump is not noisy or anything. Cooling temperatures are good too. So they seem to have improved the pump and cooling solution.
 
Repost for build reassurance:

Also i made an adjusted version of my build for a friend.
Is this gonna work?

PCPartPicker part list:http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jY9Y4D
Price breakdown by merchant:http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jY9Y4D/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.98 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: MSI Z170-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($111.88 @ OutletPC) 
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($64.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card ($314.99 @ Newegg) 
Case: Raidmax ATX-321WB (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Directron) 
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($40.98 @ Newegg) 
Total: $862.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-18 02:51 EST-0500

No HDD until he has the extra $ to throw in a TB later on.
and hes throwing in win 10.
The only reason im asking is because theres this odd disclaimer at the bottom of the page that wasnt present on my build which states:



"Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders."

Ok?
 
What are your PC's specs? Have to make sure your motherboard supports that first. Not sure if it's output or input only. I found this, but it has a single one star review.

Edit: I've got it. Use your sound card for PS4 optical input, and use your motherboard's optical output for your headset. No worries about input/output only, now you just need to figure out if your motherboard supports that S/PDIF bracket.

Thank you, no wonder I couldn't find them, the name is obtuse as hell o.o Though I have a ASRock z77 PRO 3 and upon closer inspection it wouldn't support that anyway:

ftp://europe.asrock.com/Manual/Z77 Pro3.pdf

It has a HDMI_SPDIF connector but the number of pins don't seem to match :/

Are there any recommended cheap soundcards with a optical input? I mean it wouldn't have to do much other than accepting the signal for my X-Fi to handle.
 

e90Mark

Member
Anyone with a recent Corsair Hydro cooler care to comment on pump noise, and if it's improved at all?

I tried a H60 a few years ago and immediately went back to my Noctua due to the pump preventing my PC from being completely silent at idle (my gaming PC is my workstation several days a week). Changing my case over from a BitFenix Prodigy to a Air 240, and it doesn't look like my NH-U14S will fit, so looking into other options.

I Have an h100i gtx in an air 240. I don't notice any loud pump noise and the case is generally quiet overall with 6 fans in it.
 
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