boredandlazy
Member
Thanks, but are you able to tell me the reasons you think this?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Thanks, but are you able to tell me the reasons you think this?
Jzero
Member
You won't see that much of a difference for how much more you're paying. If you have the money go for it though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWgzA2C61z4
boredandlazy
Member
Bloodember
Member
If anyone is interested I have some computer parts for sale in the Buy/Sell/Trade thread.
Here's the link to my post. I'll be adding more as I get stuff pulled and cleaned.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=196008539&postcount=12570
Here's the link to my post. I'll be adding more as I get stuff pulled and cleaned.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=196008539&postcount=12570
Here you go. Windows 10 can be installed without being activated, but instead of a grace period before you are required to activate, Windows 10 will have reduced functionality and require a reboot every 6 hours.
There's the R9 380 and GTX 960, both of which start at $170~190 for the 4GB variants. Those first two links go to performance comparisons with the 7850. You get a decent performance boost, but it's not huge for the money you would be spending. Unfortunately there's a sizable performance gap between the GTX 960 / R9 380 and the GTX 970 / R9 390. No GPUs offer anything in between at the $250 price spot. If possible, spending $300 on an R9 390 or GTX 970 would be better use of your money and represent a bigger performance upgrade.
Maybe you should look around and see if you can find a used R9 290, R9 390, or GTX 970? I don't know how much a used R9 290 goes for now but it performs just a bit lower than the R9 390 and used to be as cheap as $230 new before they were discontinued. Sometimes a brand new entry level GTX 970 can be had for around $250 at a really good sale or discount, like whatever promotion jet.com is running. Occasionally there are cheap secondhand GTX 970 cards up for sale in gaf's B/S/T thread.
Is that the silver or dark gray case?Ended up building my pc that I had questioned about a few weeks ago. Been gaming with tomb raider, firewatch, and rocket league maxed put at 4k with pretty smooth framerates. Very happy with the build.
I was indecisive about which color to get, but ended up with the silver one. It's alright. :]
Kenzodielocke
Banned
Does it matter if my USB stick is NTFS or FAT32 for windows 10 installation ?
Doesn't matter.
The Windows 10 media creation tool should format the USB drive before putting the Windows installation files on it, I think. The old Windows 7 USB download tool did that.
Kenzodielocke
Banned
Also, I want to install Windows 10 on the SSD, so should I unwire the HDD for that, because of the bootloader data?
You should if an existing bootloader exists on the HDD, as the new Win 10 entry will end up being installed there which causes an issue of you remove the HDD at a later date.
When my pendrive is formatted as FAT32, windows installs in GPT/UEFI. Otherwise, it is MBR/BIOS.
Kenzodielocke
Banned
There is nothing installed on the system. I simply will unwire the HDD, no harm done by doing so ^^
That's weird. On my Asus X99, UEFI or MBR Windows install is based on which option I select to boot from the Bios.
Files are part of Windows i believe.
Either way try reinstall Windows and post here with your procedure and results.
Burgess_101
Member
I have an 8GB Corsair XMS3 piece of RAM free as my new server doesn't take it and I was thinking about putting it in my PC.
I have two 4GB Crucial Ballistix Tracers in my PC at the moment, will they play nice together?
I have two 4GB Crucial Ballistix Tracers in my PC at the moment, will they play nice together?
Try it and see. It's not going to break anything.
We need model numbers of both to help you further.
Burgess_101
Member
I would just test it but I wanted to make sure as it'll be a pain to move a fan off the heatsink to get to the DIMM.
EDIT: Upon further inspection I may be able to squeeze it in under the fan.
Whatever z97 you can find that you like the look of. They are getting harder to find.
What do you have now?
boredandlazy
Member
If a power supply calculator says that the worst case scenario would be 422W, is a 550W PSU perfect? Or should I be looking a bit higher(650 for example) for peak efficiency?
Whats the specs?
boredandlazy
Member
Well after all my budget posturing I've decided to go for the I7 6700 anyway.
The full specs will be:
Intel Core I7 6700 CPU 3.4Ghz
2x 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz RAM
1x Samsung EVO 850 500GB SSD
1x WD Blue 1TB 2.5" 5400rpm drive
ASRock H170M ITX/AC LGA1151 DDR4 mITX Motherboard
The case will have 1x 200mm fan, and 2x 80mm fan.
I currently don't have a GPU listed as I'm waiting for Pascal before buying a dedicated. But when I did my calculation I just put a 980ti in as safety measure. Although you'd hope Pascal might be more energy efficient.
Usually people tend to recommend either Samsung or Crucial SSDs, but in reality, if you are only used to HDDs any kind of SSD will feel significantly faster.
What storage option did you chose for the HP? And what are you planning on doing with that once you buy an SSD? In that setup RAID (assuming you want it for speed and not redundancy) has little advantage, as you would use your mechanical HDDs mostly to store files and not to install programs/games.
I guess your question about changing the RAM has thus been solved?
That would certainly be helpful.
Personally I find the fear of bottlenecks a bit ridiculous, but anyway: The C2Q for gaming is certainly on its last legs, but still, depending on the resolution and graphics settings a better GPU can provide ample benefits. I would argue, before you just throw it away, there is literally no harm in using it there. In fact you will likely see handsome benefits for doing so.
Now the alienware, due to its small case and PSU you are limited in choices. There are three things to consider for a new GPU: a) physical size b) power consumption c) fan configuration. Apparently you can fit some GTX 970s in it which would make this still a very capable system. But I will refer you to google for specifics.
Well after all my budget posturing I've decided to go for the I7 6700 anyway.
The full specs will be:
Intel Core I7 6700 CPU 3.4Ghz
2x 8GB DDR4 2133Mhz RAM
1x Samsung EVO 850 500GB SSD
1x WD Blue 1TB 2.5" 5400rpm drive
ASRock H170M ITX/AC LGA1151 DDR4 mITX Motherboard
The case will have 1x 200mm fan, and 2x 80mm fan.
I currently don't have a GPU listed as I'm waiting for Pascal before buying a dedicated. But when I did my calculation I just put a 980ti in as safety measure. Although you'd hope Pascal might be more energy efficient.
i7 6700 95W
980TI 300W
Rest 100W
500W is fine, go for 550/600/650W depending on model/features etc.
You want atleast 500W on the 12v rail, that's 500/12=42A. So as long as the PSU has atleast 42A on its 12v rails (combined if multiple 12V rails), then that PSU is sufficient. The rest depends on what you care about, bronze vs gold for higher efficiency, warranty, voltage regulation, modular.
John Wick
Member
Depends what your looking for and if your gonna overclock. I have the 5820K which has six cores and makes a massive difference in multi-threaded applications. I've given it a mild overclock at the moment. Down the line I'll push it to about 4.2ghz and it'll make a difference. Right now it's fast enough even at stock speeds. I personally would go for the 5820K.
John Wick
Member
I always buy a beefier PSU as it'll power your current and maybe next PC. I'd go minimum 750W.
boredandlazy
Member
Thanks, the one that I was set on buying is a Seasonic G-Series 550W 80PLUS . I was just under the impression that with PSU's you should aim for a fair amount of headroom for peak efficiency and I thought 550 might be cutting it a bit fine.
That PSU is fine. If you plan to overclock the GPU then I would get a 650W, something like the Corsair RMx650. Or if available SUPER FLOWER LEADEX PLATINUM 650W. Or EVGA G2 series.
You could run that list off a decent 450W really. My estimate is over exaggerated already. 65W CPU, 300W GPU, rest 20-30W is more accurate to true consumption.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
Question! I have an 8gig stick of this DDR3 ram:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231527
Eventually I'm going to buy another stick since I'm sure I'll need 16 eventually but I'm good with 8 for now. My question is, is the price more likely to go up or down for this? If it'll go up I'll buy it now, but I'm fine waiting if it'll drop eventually.
Eventually I'm going to buy another stick since I'm sure I'll need 16 eventually but I'm good with 8 for now. My question is, is the price more likely to go up or down for this? If it'll go up I'll buy it now, but I'm fine waiting if it'll drop eventually.
Muffin Awesome
Member
Be sure to post some pics post install, curious to see the result.
hendersonhank
Member
Can someone help me with memory?
I have an Asus P8Z68-V with i5-2500K @ 4.5ghz and 8gb of DDR3 1600. I've been wanting to bump up to 16gb for awhile. Another 8gb of 1600 is about $55, but I decided I might as well just do 16gb of 2133 at $80-90 after seeing the Digital Foundry piece that shows around an 8fps boost with the faster memory.
So my question is, what the hell is the difference in all these memory sticks I'm seeing on Amazon? For example, G.Skill Ares and G.Skill Sniper seem to have identical specs, 2x8gb, 2133, 1.6v, CL 10, but Ares is almost $10 less. Then there's another G.Skill Ares with CL 11 that actually costs more. Wtf? G.Skill site is useless for explaining the differences.
Do I need to worry about voltage? Does 1.6 just means it draws less power than the usual 1.65 sticks?
And finally, would I get better performance if instead of replacing my 2x4 (1600) with 2x8 (2133), I just added another 2x4 (1600)? I don't get the whole dual/quad channel stuff.
I have an Asus P8Z68-V with i5-2500K @ 4.5ghz and 8gb of DDR3 1600. I've been wanting to bump up to 16gb for awhile. Another 8gb of 1600 is about $55, but I decided I might as well just do 16gb of 2133 at $80-90 after seeing the Digital Foundry piece that shows around an 8fps boost with the faster memory.
So my question is, what the hell is the difference in all these memory sticks I'm seeing on Amazon? For example, G.Skill Ares and G.Skill Sniper seem to have identical specs, 2x8gb, 2133, 1.6v, CL 10, but Ares is almost $10 less. Then there's another G.Skill Ares with CL 11 that actually costs more. Wtf? G.Skill site is useless for explaining the differences.
Do I need to worry about voltage? Does 1.6 just means it draws less power than the usual 1.65 sticks?
And finally, would I get better performance if instead of replacing my 2x4 (1600) with 2x8 (2133), I just added another 2x4 (1600)? I don't get the whole dual/quad channel stuff.
Ended up building my pc that I had questioned about a few weeks ago. Been gaming with tomb raider, firewatch, and rocket league maxed put at 4k with pretty smooth framerates. Very happy with the build.
Lovely build. Great job, bet it runs so nice with the 2 980ti's!
I finished my build yesterday, same case as you. Only one 980ti for now though. Really happy with how it went.
Here's some pics. Apologies for the pants quality.
First 2 kits are the same as you noted, RRP price difference was only $3, thats due to the heatsink design (aesthetics).
Last kit is slower, its priced wrong, its Amazons fault, they arent exactly a proper component shop.
Lower the voltage the better.
Last point, no, 4 sticks would still be dual channel on you platform. Harder to get the RAM running at 2133Mhz with 4 modules vs 2. Also remember its not guaranteed to run at 2133Mhz, the Intel Memory Controller on the CPU needs to be up for the job, its rated for 1600Mhz. So be prepared to tweak the memory controller voltage at least if XMP fails.
Novum_Veritas
Member
Regarding RAM it is difficult to say, it can go up or down, depends of the situation if the world market and the raw materials prices.
I built my PC around three weeks ago and have experienced zero issues with it until today. I was browsing the internet until it just shut off and now won't turn on. The case lights and fans turn on, but it won't boot to the bios and my mouse/kb are not lighting up. How do I figure out what exactly has gone wrong.......
opticalmace
Member
Double check all connections, particularly power cables. Clear the CMOS (see manual).
Are you overclocking at all? Specs?
hendersonhank
Member
Awesome, thank you!
Made some changes to the rig. First, moved down the fan like you suggested:
Also took off the middle cage, moved the SSD to the bottom cage and the front fan to the highest slot.
I highlighted my fans with red circles and fan slots with blue ones. Should I get more fans? Now I get 30ºC when I start the PC but after a while it goes to 40/43 with 9 or 10 tabs opened on Chrome. I'm gonna buy some thermal paste this week and apply it.
John Wick
Member
Lovely build. Great job, bet it runs so nice with the 2 980ti's!
I finished my build yesterday, same case as you. Only one 980ti for now though. Really happy with how it went.
Here's some pics. Apologies for the pants quality.
How the fuck did you get the wiring so tidy? That looks mint!
On second examination I've got a lot more stuff in my PC but still that is a tidy build
Haha thank you! Took me a little while but to be fair the case helped out massively with the shroud covering the power supply and all its cables. It's my first pc build however so I'm really happy with it.
Made some changes to the rig. First, moved down the fan like you suggested:
Also took off the middle cage, moved the SSD to the bottom cage and the front fan to the highest slot.
I highlighted my fans with red circles and fan slots with blue ones. Should I get more fans? Now I get 30ºC when I start the PC but after a while it goes to 40/43 with 9 or 10 tabs opened on Chrome. I'm gonna buy some thermal paste this week and apply it.
Let's check some things
On the Hyper 212, did you apply the included thermal paste?
What method did you use to apply the paste?
Can you see the shiny sticker on the CPU fan, confirming it is blowing air over the Heatsink?
Did you tighten the hyper 212 screws as far as they go? They will hit metal stops where you can't go any further.
Lovely build. Great job, bet it runs so nice with the 2 980ti's!
I finished my build yesterday, same case as you. Only one 980ti for now though. Really happy with how it went.
Here's some pics. Apologies for the pants quality.
You are probably going to want a 1000w PSU if you go SLI 980 Ti (especially with an X99 CPU and the GB Xtreme).
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
drhankmccoyphd
Member
I'm a little concerned with my PSU. It's a corsair TX750M. I've installed all my components, seems to be running fine, but the fan on the PSU looks like it's trying to spin up but it just buzzes and doesn't spin up. My load should be pretty low relative to the PSU's capacity. Only running a 95W CPU (AMD 1090T), two platter hard drives and a 560ti, 2 system fans. Should I be worried? I know that the Corsair units only spin up on load but I feel like it should at least start spinning.
I will check all the connections and clear the CMOS a little later today.
I have not attempted overclocking yet(new PC building). Here are my specs:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/c93PMp
Thank you for the help!
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