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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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nitewulf

Member
not sure if this is the right place to ask, but is there a fan-less/quiet, low power usage, small form factor build? or sites where i can order from?
 
What can you guys tell me about this build? My friend made it for me as between us, we have enough parts to bring it to $350 not including OS and peripherals.

However I have concerns this will be a giant loud thing that will take up space, raise my rooms temperature (no AC), and draw too much power compared to my small (weak) casual use PC which draws like 60w when i play things.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($339.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $980.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 13:02 EST-0500


We have the GPU, CPU, Fan, and Hard Drive.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm a little concerned with my PSU. It's a corsair TX750M. I've installed all my components, seems to be running fine, but the fan on the PSU looks like it's trying to spin up but it just buzzes and doesn't spin up. My load should be pretty low relative to the PSU's capacity. Only running a 95W CPU (AMD 1090T), two platter hard drives and a 560ti, 2 system fans. Should I be worried? I know that the Corsair units only spin up on load but I feel like it should at least start spinning.

If it's this one
http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/tx-series-modular-tx750-80-plus-bronze-certified-750-watt-high-performance-modular-power-supply

Then it's only going to spin at more than 225W. What happens when you play a game?

not sure if this is the right place to ask, but is there a fan-less/quiet, low power usage, small form factor build? or sites where i can order from?

Purpose of the build and budget?

What can you guys tell me about this build? My friend made it for me as between us, we have enough parts to bring it to $350 not including OS and peripherals.

However I have concerns this will be a giant loud thing that will take up space, raise my rooms temperature (no AC), and draw too much power compared to my small (weak) casual use PC which draws like 60w when i play things.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($339.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $980.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 13:02 EST-0500
We have the GPU, CPU, Fan, and Hard Drive.

Well are you going to SLI a 970, that wouldn't be advised with 3.5gb vram. Are you going to SLI in the future considering you chose a 750w PSU? Again I would recommend to always buy the single most powerful gpu and sell and upgrade later, unless you have money to SLI to begin with.

If now you are thinking to not SLI, then go for a quality 550/650W PSU, not corsair CX, CS, RM, range. Something like EVGA G2, Seasonic G, Corsair RMx.

Then switch to a mATX or even ITX case and Board.
And are you overclocking? Because choosing a non K CPU and Z series board doesn't make sense unless you are happy to overclock the non k CPU and lose access to a bunch of CPU power saving features and core temp monitoring.
 
Usually people tend to recommend either Samsung or Crucial SSDs, but in reality, if you are only used to HDDs any kind of SSD will feel significantly faster.
What storage option did you chose for the HP? And what are you planning on doing with that once you buy an SSD? In that setup RAID (assuming you want it for speed and not redundancy) has little advantage, as you would use your mechanical HDDs mostly to store files and not to install programs/games.



I guess your question about changing the RAM has thus been solved?



That would certainly be helpful.



Personally I find the fear of bottlenecks a bit ridiculous, but anyway: The C2Q for gaming is certainly on its last legs, but still, depending on the resolution and graphics settings a better GPU can provide ample benefits. I would argue, before you just throw it away, there is literally no harm in using it there. In fact you will likely see handsome benefits for doing so.

Now the alienware, due to its small case and PSU you are limited in choices. There are three things to consider for a new GPU: a) physical size b) power consumption c) fan configuration. Apparently you can fit some GTX 970s in it which would make this still a very capable system. But I will refer you to google for specifics.

Thanks for the reply... should I try over clocking the CPU in my X-51? Also and recommendations on a new wireless keyboard under $100?
 
Well are you going to SLI a 970, that wouldn't be advised with 3.5gb vram. Are you going to SLI in the future considering you chose a 750w PSU? Again I would recommend to always buy the single most powerful gpu and sell and upgrade later, unless you have money to SLI to begin with.

If now you are thinking to not SLI, then go for a quality 550/650W PSU, not corsair CX, CS, RM, range. Something like EVGA G2, Seasonic G, Corsair RMx.

Then switch to a mATX or even ITX case and Board.
And are you overclocking? Because choosing a non K CPU and Z series board doesn't make sense unless you are happy to overclock the non k CPU and lose access to a bunch of CPU power saving features and core temp monitoring.

Im not going to SLI or overclock. I want to use as little power as i can. So switch the motherboard, case, and psu?
 
Hey all,

I just ordered my 6600k on this deal! I plan on buying things piecemeal so I can find savings like this.

This was my first piece of the puzzle, so now I'm wondering which motherboard and ram to get? I know I'm leaning towards a 970 (like the MSI twin one).I want 16gb RAM. Which combo of RAM and Board should I be looking at for the 6600k and the 970?

Thanks!!
 

LilJoka

Member
Im not going to SLI or overclock. I want to use as little power as i can. So switch the motherboard, case, and psu?

Here's an example

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($106.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Toshiba 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($309.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1016.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 13:43 EST-0500
 
Need model numbers.



You can't overclock this dell PC unless it has a Z series board (chipset) which I believe it does not. You can check this with CPUz.

ore details on my X-51

Single Drive Dual Layer Blu-ra y Reader (BD-ROM, DVD RW, CD-R W)
1.5GB GDDR5 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660
330W External Power Supply
DW1506 Wireless-N WLAN Half Mi ni-Card
8GB (2 X 4GB) Dual Channel DDR 3 up to 1600MHz
Intel Core i7-3770 3.4GHz (8MB Cache) with Hyper-Threading a nd Turbo Boost Technology 2.0

I thought it had a better power supply, I wonder what next-gen cards I will be able to run in it... It has served me well for over 3 years.
 

LilJoka

Member
ore details on my X-51

Single Drive Dual Layer Blu-ra y Reader (BD-ROM, DVD RW, CD-R W)
1.5GB GDDR5 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660
330W External Power Supply
DW1506 Wireless-N WLAN Half Mi ni-Card
8GB (2 X 4GB) Dual Channel DDR 3 up to 1600MHz
Intel Core i7-3770 3.4GHz (8MB Cache) with Hyper-Threading a nd Turbo Boost Technology 2.0

I thought it had a better power supply, I wonder what next-gen cards I will be able to run in it... It has served me well for over 3 years.

I wouldn't be running a GTX 970 in that, GTX 960 would be OK.

Need the motherboard chipset version, download CPUz and check the mainboard tab. Pretty sure it's H series meaning it can't be overclocked.
 

Nesses

Member
In the process of an update...Ordering the Asus RoG Swift 34" when it gets released and my current GTX 680 won't be able to handle it, so here is what I selected.

I haven't updated since 2012, so its been awhile :)

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FGqjf7
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FGqjf7/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($378.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master GeminII S524 Ver 2 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII RANGER ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($353.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($353.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($131.16 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($145.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1667.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 14:17 EST-0500
 

LilJoka

Member
In the process of an update...Ordering the Asus RoG Swift 34" when it gets released and my current GTX 680 won't be able to handle it, so here is what I selected.

I haven't updated since 2012, so its been awhile :)

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FGqjf7
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/FGqjf7/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($378.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master GeminII S524 Ver 2 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII RANGER ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($353.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($353.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($131.16 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($145.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1667.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 14:17 EST-0500

970 SLI effectively means you will run lower setting and higher fps due to the VRAM is really 3.5GB, and a few new games are needing over 4GB for ultra textures. May want to consider this and instead just buy a 980Ti.
 

ClearData

Member
Quick question

I'm upgrading the CPU on my cousin's motherboard from an Athlon to a Phenom II. Should I clear the CMOS by removing the coin battery or should I let the system try to detect the hardware change and update itself during POST?

Motherboard is a Asrock 870 Extreme 3 IIRC.

Thanks.
 

LilJoka

Member
Quick question

I'm upgrading the CPU on my cousin's motherboard from an Athlon to a Phenom II. Should I clear the CMOS by removing the coin battery or should I let the system try to detect the hardware change and update itself during POST?

Motherboard is a Asrock 870 Extreme 3 IIRC.

Thanks.

It will do it itself.
 

Micerider

Member
What can you guys tell me about this build? My friend made it for me as between us, we have enough parts to bring it to $350 not including OS and peripherals.

However I have concerns this will be a giant loud thing that will take up space, raise my rooms temperature (no AC), and draw too much power compared to my small (weak) casual use PC which draws like 60w when i play things.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($339.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $980.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 13:02 EST-0500


We have the GPU, CPU, Fan, and Hard Drive.

I see you have planned for ddr4 2133mhz so it won't matter Now but just a friendly warning on the mobo as I discovered it painfully on my own: it has no options to modify VCCIO (voltage) and System Agent Voltage (VCCSA) is limited to either 1.05V or 1.20V. Not a huuggge deal, but in practice this meant that I couldn't get a stable DDR4 beyond 2800mhz (annoying, considering I have a 3200mhz set). Happy with it Otherwise...and I would actually recommend going for higher frequency ram still (2666 or 2800, it's not that much more expensive).
 

LilJoka

Member
I see you have planned for ddr4 2133mhz so it won't matter Now but just a friendly warning on the mobo as I discovered it painfully on my own: it has no options to modify VCCIO (voltage) and System Agent Voltage (VCCSA) is limited to either 1.05V or 1.20V. Not a huuggge deal, but in practice this meant that I couldn't get a stable DDR4 beyond 2800mhz (annoying, considering I have a 3200mhz set). Happy with it Otherwise...and I would actually recommend going for higher frequency ram still (2666 or 2800, it's not that much more expensive).

VCCSA 1.2v wasnt enough?
 

FireRises

Member
I'm looking to build a mini-itx machine using the coolermaster elite 130 case.

I've narrowed my options down to the following:

MSI 390X Gaming 8GB

or

Nvidia GTX 970

or

Sapphire Nitro 390


If I hunt for deals, they can be had in similar price ranges (well, 390x might be a used card). From what I read, the MSI will be a tight fit because it takes up 2.5 slots. The 390 draws more power/heat but should be manageable. The 970 is the quietest and more energy efficient. At 1080p, they're all close but with 8GB the 390s should be more future proofed.

I'd be gaming at 1080p and hopefully 1440p down the line. Whatever card I choose will be to hold me over for the next gen cards.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($69.84 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($142.57 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($309.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $883.11
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-21 14:54 EST-0500

Suggestions? Actually looking to knock the price down w/o sacrificing performance, if possible.
 
I wouldn't be running a GTX 970 in that, GTX 960 would be OK.

Need the motherboard chipset version, download CPUz and check the mainboard tab. Pretty sure it's H series meaning it can't be overclocked.

:( Why is that?

Guess I feel even better for buying a whole new PC, but there are plenty of people in the X-51 thread that say the 970 is a great match, though I was honestly expecting to put a next gen GeForce in there...
 

Nesses

Member
970 SLI effectively means you will run lower setting and higher fps due to the VRAM is really 3.5GB, and a few new games are needing over 4GB for ultra textures. May want to consider this and instead just buy a 980Ti.

Fair enough.

Any comments on the motherboard. I currently have an Asus and I'm happy with it. Not sure how they are now.
 

LilJoka

Member
:( Why is that?

Guess I feel even better for buying a whole new PC, but there are plenty of people in the X-51 thread that say the 970 is a great match, though I was honestly expecting to put a next gen GeForce in there...

Well it's cutting it close, really I want to see the Amps on the 12v rail to decide. If you can get a photo of the sticker on the side of the PSU that would help.

For sake of argument, if it actually produces 330W on the 12v rail:
CPU 77W
Factory overclocked GTX 970: ~230W.

So in my opinion it's cutting it close, but next gen would be more efficient.
 

J. Bravo

Member
I need a new video card so I can play stuff like fallout 4 and the division on low settings without stuttering. My gtx460 no longer runs everything haha. No more than $200 if possible. Thanks.
 

Drewsky

Member
Hey guys, getting my tax return soon and thinking about building a PC finally, something I've been mulling over for years. Just wanted to have some better minds check it out for me.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3HZNRB

Hows that? I'd like to be able to play stuff like Fallout 4 and The Witcher 3 on high settings with reasonable FPS like 30-60. That's a build I've had saved for a long time but noticed that I could go to a GTX 970 for cheaper than the R9290 I had in the build. Is that a good choice? Thanks for any recommendations/help.
 
It's $100 more, but you're getting a far stronger graphics card. Alternatively follow Smokey's advice if you want to wait for Nvidia's Pascal graphics cards. Also, seeing as you seem to be planning to buy your parts at NCIX, remember that they have a price matching policy. If you see the exact same item being sold for a lower price elsewhere, get them to match it and save yourself some more money.

This is really great. Thanks, I'll go with this.

Thought I'd follow up in the thread with some test results from the finished build based on RGM79's advice:

WPWNQIv.png


This seems pretty good to me!
 
I think it's time to upgrade my i5 2500 since I didn't spring for the unlocked version. I have a 970 and can reuse the case, power supply and hard drives. Willing to spend 700-800 CDN, what does GAF suggest? I only do 1080p gaming and surfing on it.
 
Crossposting from the LCD thread. Hoping someone here can help:

Is anyone using a Vizio M series 4k to run 1440p content from a PC? I've forced my PC to that resolution in the Nvidia control panel, and it looks a bit sharper but the info display on the TV still says 1080p. I'm wondering if the TV is taking the 1440p and downscaling to 1080p. Is there anyway to tell for sure? I'm running the video and audio from a DVI port through a HDMI adapter into the TV. My graphics card is pretty old, 560 ti, but I don't think that should matter.
 
Question if anyone can help me out with this.

So I upgraded my headphones to Sennheiser HD 558s. Love them so far. But the thing is that my last headset was USB (actual gaming headset). This one obviously isn't and it plugs into the audio out port on the motherboard. However, that was the spot for my external logitech speakers. Is there anywhere else I can plug the speakers in on the rear without plugging it in the front? I would ideally like to keep my wires behind the PC.
 

Afro

Member
Question if anyone can help me out with this.

So I upgraded my headphones to Sennheiser HD 558s. Love them so far. But the thing is that my last headset was USB (actual gaming headset). This one obviously isn't and it plugs into the audio out port on the motherboard. However, that was the spot for my external logitech speakers. Is there anywhere else I can plug the speakers in on the rear without plugging it in the front? I would ideally like to keep my wires behind the PC.

Do you have an optical (toslink) output on your motherboard? If so, you could possibly use that for your logitech speakers (and improve sound quality at the same time). You could buy a DAC, go from your motherboard to the DAC, then from the DAC to your speakers. Then you could use the green headphone jack on the motherboard for your headphones. Got a link to the speakers? Model name?
 

Dmax3901

Member
I did have a quick look at the OP, but I was looking to get the advice of you guys anyway.

I'm looking to get a new 24" 16:9 monitor for around $200 AUD.

I've been using a former housemates 16:10 24" for a year or two now. It's served me well but I think I wanna go back to ye olde 16:9.
 

Crisium

Member
I'm looking to build a mini-itx machine using the coolermaster elite 130 case.

I've narrowed my options down to the following:

MSI 390X Gaming 8GB

or

Nvidia GTX 970

or

Sapphire Nitro 390


If I hunt for deals, they can be had in similar price ranges (well, 390x might be a used card). From what I read, the MSI will be a tight fit because it takes up 2.5 slots. The 390 draws more power/heat but should be manageable. The 970 is the quietest and more energy efficient. At 1080p, they're all close but with 8GB the 390s should be more future proofed.

I'd be gaming at 1080p and hopefully 1440p down the line. Whatever card I choose will be to hold me over for the next gen cards.

If you are confident they all can fit your case and PSU, then get whichever is cheapest. If you intend to upgrade to next gen very early then it doesn't really matter about the finer differences imo since new cards are due this year. Also a used aftermarket 290 is also an option if you can find it for cheaper than any of the above.
 

FireRises

Member
If you are confident they all can fit your case and PSU, then get whichever is cheapest. If you intend to upgrade to next gen very early then it doesn't really matter about the finer differences imo since new cards are due this year. Also a used aftermarket 290 is also an option if you can find it for cheaper than any of the above.

thanks! Yeah the case supports up to 13.5" and 2 slot cards. I can get a cheap 290 used but I'm just weary of getting one that's been abused and will fail before I can flip it.
 
I need a new router.

I live in a small apartment, so I dont need crazy range, and pretty much everything but my phone is wired up anyway.

What would you guys recommend? Something I can get from MemoryExpress would be best, but any Canadian store is fine.
 

Walpurgis

Banned
Is your sister a post-secondary student? With valid student ID, the Microsoft Store (retail and online) offers education discounts. It's not that big of a discount, just 10% off the last time I checked, but they occasionally have good deals. Free returns and the ability to return online orders to the retail stores make them pretty nice to deal with in terms of customer service. Unfortunately it seems that all they currently have in the $400~500 price range right now are models with so-so Celeron processors.

Also, you may want to keep an eye on redflagdeals' hot deals forum for lower priced laptops. Check the latest posts here for Lenovo laptops with employee pricing discounts, and even consider refurbished laptops like this one. You won't find better specs for under $500, taxes included. They may be a few years old, but they have i5 processors, SSDs, and still run decently well considering that Intel has been making more advances in power savings than processor performance when it comes to the last couple of years of processor design.

Thanks for the advice! Unfortunately, my sister doesn't want refurbished anymore (I guess she didn't know what it meant). I really liked that ThinkPad and tried my best to sell her on it but she started asking questions like "how long was it used for", etc. so it didn't work out. :( She doesn't care about specs (I do though) and has threatened to just go to Costco and buy a laptop herself. That is something that I cannot allow to happen.

Someone responded in the laptop thread and recommended something to me so I will just copy my post.
That one looks good but how do you think this one compares?
http://www.costco.ca/Acer-Aspire-ES1-512-C1PS-Bilingual-Notebook,-N2840.product.100248102.html

The memory, processor and storage look the same but the price is different and Costco has top warranty. I've been doing a lot of searching just now and I haven't seen anyone saying anything bad about this laptop.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Acer-Aspire-E15-Start-ES1-512-P1SM-Notebook-Review.145508.0.html
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Acer-Aspire-ES1-512-C8JU.145441.0.html

What is your opinion on it? I know that there is more to laptops than what meets the eye (I almost fell for this one until I saw it on notebook reviews). Btw, my sister doesn't want used anymore.
I just noticed that it has one of the "so-so" Celeron processors that you mentioned. However, it seems to have the highest performance/price ratio at Costco. At least, that is how I interpret it based off RAM, storage and processor GHz. What are your thoughts?
 
Do you have an optical (toslink) output on your motherboard? If so, you could possibly use that for your logitech speakers (and improve sound quality at the same time). You could buy a DAC, go from your motherboard to the DAC, then from the DAC to your speakers. Then you could use the green headphone jack on the motherboard for your headphones. Got a link to the speakers? Model name?

These are the speakers I have:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-z313-2-1-channel-speaker-system-3-piece-black-silver/9427774.p?id=1218104302605&skuId=9427774

Also I'm running off a Maximus Hero VII motherboard. I do believe it has an optical port for it.
 

Muddimar

Member
Here is my build (altered off of another build on the pc picker site):

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bhj6TW


My only question, is it worth dropping the $600 for the 980ti, with the next gen so close? Should I hold off entirely? Or settle for a 970 at a cheaper price? I also have a 750TI I'm currently using, maybe that could push me through until Nvidia's next release?
 

inner-G

Banned
Here is my build (altered off of another build on the pc picker site):

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bhj6TW


My only question, is it worth dropping the $600 for the 980ti, with the next gen so close? Should I hold off entirely? Or settle for a 970 at a cheaper price? I also have a 750TI I'm currently using, maybe that could push me through until Nvidia's next release?
Thats the question everyone asks themselves.

I went with a 970 for now, and will wait to see what the 980ti pascal equivalent is like. What resolution are you gaming at? If you want 4K the 980ti/Titan is the way to go. For 1080p/1440p a 970 will handle most stuff really well.

I have the z170a Krait and a 6600k, and I'm playing stuff like Witcher 3 and GTAV in 1440p no problem
 

Muddimar

Member
Thats the question everyone asks themselves.

I went with a 970 for now, and will wait to see what the 980ti pascal equivalent is like. What resolution are you gaming at? If you want 4K the 980ti/Titan is the way to go. For 1080p/1440p a 970 will handle most stuff really well.

Ugh... sucks. I don't want to immediately be left behind on a new build.
 

Afro

Member
These are the speakers I have:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-z313-2-1-channel-speaker-system-3-piece-black-silver/9427774.p?id=1218104302605&skuId=9427774

Also I'm running off a Maximus Hero VII motherboard. I do believe it has an optical port for it.

You could use the headphone jack on the 'control pod' that connects to the subwoofer. You'd just need a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter for your 'phones. Not the best sound quality, but that would work.

If you want sound quality, use the optical port on your motherboard. You could get a DAC + Headphone amp combo for under $100.
 
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