-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Just FYI, it looks like you can get a 970 on jet.com for ~$255.
http://slickdeals.net/f/8476871-zotac-gtx-970-254-99?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBar
thanks man, I considered that but I've heard some horror stories regarding jet... I think I rather gamble my money elsewhere.
LQX
Member
Selling some older PC parts if anyone is interested PM me.
3570K, Mobo and Ram.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=196260671&postcount=12752
3570K, Mobo and Ram.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=196260671&postcount=12752
Yeah not thinking about that until way down the road yet. Thanks for the recommendation though.
lol, nice build man!
What's the best minimum processor state to use?
Default, 5% or whatever.
Whatever is cheapest since this is a stop gap card for you, although the 390X is a step faster. There's also a 390 (non-X) card new for cheaper than that 970 after rebate:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-video-card-r9390p8256
Dick Justice
Banned
Thanks.
So after reading about how upgrading to faster ram is a good way to eke some good performance gains out of my aging 2500K setup, I'm looking for the cheapest 2133 speed ram that will work in my motherboard. Is there any limitation here, or will any ram do? What ram do you guys recommend? This is the mobo I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138319
OriginofHysteria
Banned
So I jumped on the newegg deal for the Define R5 (89.99 for windowed) and I'm moving the parts out of my 760t for it. Question for those of you with this case and have an h100i or anything similar...do you mount the rad on the top or in the front? Trying to maximize airflow and sound dampening. Thanks!
Hidden One
Member
I'm trying out dual monitors for the first time and I need some info..
How do I play games on one screen and browse on the other without making the game pause on the screen I'm gaming on?
How do I play games on one screen and browse on the other without making the game pause on the screen I'm gaming on?
As far as I know you can't. I hate that the screen with the game has to minimize. A solution would be to play on windowed mode, I think.
Hidden One
Member
Ah I see..I've seen the stuff about window'd mode but I always thought you could play and just swap between the two whenever lol.
ThanksVision
Member
Hey guys, I've posted in here a couple times, but I'm still looking for any guidance from you pros.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $211)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $547.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-22 17:07 EST-0500
I think I'm basically done. I am not sure about my graphics card yet (either 390 or 970) or I might just wait until the next round of cards come and use this PC for all things non-gaming in the mean time.
Does this build look good to you guys? Anything else I would need? I guess more importantly, anything I can take away? Would love to see this go sub $500 without noticing any huge drops in performance.
I sincerely appreciate any help or tips--even if it's just you guys telling me to pull the trigger. Thank you!!!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $211)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.00 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $547.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-22 17:07 EST-0500
I think I'm basically done. I am not sure about my graphics card yet (either 390 or 970) or I might just wait until the next round of cards come and use this PC for all things non-gaming in the mean time.
Does this build look good to you guys? Anything else I would need? I guess more importantly, anything I can take away? Would love to see this go sub $500 without noticing any huge drops in performance.
I sincerely appreciate any help or tips--even if it's just you guys telling me to pull the trigger. Thank you!!!
Here you go:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $493.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-22 17:29 EST-0500
No drop in performance. 650W plenty enough to handle any single card, especially that Seasonic unit. The Phanteks case is better than the S340, IMO. Avexir is the only memory company that actually tests if their memory is faulty before sending it out.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($148.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $493.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-22 17:29 EST-0500
No drop in performance. 650W plenty enough to handle any single card, especially that Seasonic unit. The Phanteks case is better than the S340, IMO. Avexir is the only memory company that actually tests if their memory is faulty before sending it out.
How much RAM do you want? You could try manually overclocking the RAM you already have.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f32133c9d8gxl
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f32133c11d16gar
Maybe you should save up to upgrade to a new Skylake PC or whatever is coming after Skylake. Might be a better use of your money compared to somewhat minor improvements for your processor.
Both will work just fine. If you mount it in the front, set it up so the fans are drawing air into the case. If you mount it at the top, set it up so the fans are blowing air out of the case. Your processor will run slightly cooler if the radiator is in the front because it'll be getting cooler air from outside of the computer instead, but it's probably only a few degrees difference, nothing that makes a huge difference to CPU temperatures, it won't mean your processor will overheat if you mount the radiator up top.
dinosaur_hunter2
Member
Quick question:
I mainly game at 1080p. Now that I have a GTX980Ti, I wanted to try something better (or smoother), so which way I go? 1440p + Gsync or 4k? Of course, I know I'll have to buy a new monitor.
I mainly game at 1080p. Now that I have a GTX980Ti, I wanted to try something better (or smoother), so which way I go? 1440p + Gsync or 4k? Of course, I know I'll have to buy a new monitor.
DizzyCaffeine
Member
FWIW, I ordered the same card from Jet with zero problems. They also delivered it in 1 day, and I still don't understand why I got it so quickly.
Still too early for 4K. Lots of games struggle with the 980 Ti in 2-3 Way SLI. 120-144Hz refresh rate is way better than 4K @ 60Hz too.
1440p @ 120-144Hz is the sweet spot for top end right now, IMO.
RumblingRosco
Member
Hi all. You've help me so much in the past and I'm calling upon you once more.
I'm looking for a new monitor with the following characteristics, do you have any suggestions?:
Between 22"-26"
IPS display
1080p (1440p is gravy but not necessary)
Has an adjustable vertical height
Built-in speakers would be a big plus even if they suck
≤ $150
Use: office work, web-browsing, YouTube videos, Facebook
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Let me know if that price range is unachievable. I'm not anywhere near a Fry's by the way and I'm located in the central USA.
I'm looking for a new monitor with the following characteristics, do you have any suggestions?:
Between 22"-26"
IPS display
1080p (1440p is gravy but not necessary)
Has an adjustable vertical height
Built-in speakers would be a big plus even if they suck
≤ $150
Use: office work, web-browsing, YouTube videos, Facebook
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Let me know if that price range is unachievable. I'm not anywhere near a Fry's by the way and I'm located in the central USA.
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Is it possible to run DDR3 ram rated for 3200MHz in a motherboard that only supports up to 2000-1800MHz? PCPartspicker says they are compatible, but I figured I would ask here. I'm assuming the mobo will just downclock the RAM?
DDR3 will run at 1333 unless you set it to something else. When memory is advertised at a speed, that means they've binned it to be able to overclock it to that frequency.
1 & 2 - The PC wasn't assembled by me so I can't tell you exactly what they did but I'm almost sure they did a proper job with the paste. I'm not that experienced with hardware so I accepted the "help"
3 - Yes it is, confirmed it today
4 - Yes
Which thermal paste do you recommend? It's been almost 3 years since I bought my PC :/
As the users that usually read this thread have probably guessed by now I'm not the most informed person regarding hardware so I saw someone posting about energy options on windows and I took a look and found that mine was set to 100% as well.:/ I'm using Balanced now and temps dropped to 36-39 when using just Chrome and Discord. This week I'll disassemble my rig with a close friend who's also a gaffer and we'll change the thermal paste and clean the parts a bit more using a paint brush.
A Grizzly Bear
Member
I can't find a single 2x8GB ram kit that matches the QVL for the Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD3. How often do ram sticks just not work? I want to buy locally (MemoryExpress.ca).
Devilinthiscity
Member
So really new to this and I am using pcpartpicker because I have no idea what i'm doing.
Go easy on me, this is my first build.
So far these are the component I have:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Good? Bad? Decent? Really appreciate everyones input.
Go easy on me, this is my first build.
So far these are the component I have:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Good? Bad? Decent? Really appreciate everyones input.
Doubt you'll fit a H100i in any ITX case that isn't actually too big for being called an ITX case.
PSU too big, rig could run off a decent 550W.
Depending on the case you choose, assuming it's still ITX, you might be better off going for a Hyper 212 or similar air cooler.
opticalmace
Member
Not really, about 10% more pixels.
Those are different aspect ratios.
16:9=1920x1080
16:10=1920x1200
Check your monitor and see which ratio is native. Shouldn't be a performance difference.
Devilinthiscity
Member
Cool. Thanks for the input!
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Still in the planning stage of upgrading my PC.
Has anyone seen/used/heard anything about the ICYDOCK TOUGH ARMOR MB996SP-6SB?
Seems tight.
I'm planning on moving to a custom built external GPU enclosure using a pcie riser cable, so I'll have a little more open space in my SFF case. This seems like a nice addition! It obviously would not be seated in a 5.25in drive bay and I have yet to even take measurements and stuff just kinda thinking about it.
Right now I have my two SSDs in Raid0s that are ziptied together and attached to the frame, but my PC has 4 more SATA ports. 2 internal and 2 external.
This thing seems like a completely "dumb" enclosure, it just has 6 SATA slots on the back and two molex connectors. I have to wonder if I were to theoretically get it if I could seat my current drives in it and still have them act identically to the way they do now.
Figured I'd bump this since why the hell not.
also this morning i finished building a new keyboard.
\_(ツ
_/¯Yeah I know that much, mines a 16:10 one and I know higher resolutions are more demanding, curious if downgrading to a 16:9 monitor would net me any FPS gains.
It really doesn't matter. I'd get these
http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX57070
Nice low timings, and colour matches your motherboard
I currently have a new machine that I built a few months ago. It's a Skylake machine with 16GB RAM and a GTX 980.
I've been wondering if I should sell the 980 and get a 980 Ti or possibly another 980 and run SLI. I don't know how easily I could find a matching 980, though.
I'm interested in VR and eventually running a 34" ultrawide, possibly along with my current 2x 24" monitors. Would I need more power to run that? Should I just be happy with the 980? I got it for a pretty awesome deal, $400 when all said and done. I'm not a tweaker who has to have the top card and pushes it to it's limit, I'm happy if my games just run on great settings. However, with my interest in a bigger monitor and VR, I'm wondering if I need to upgrade.
I've been wondering if I should sell the 980 and get a 980 Ti or possibly another 980 and run SLI. I don't know how easily I could find a matching 980, though.
I'm interested in VR and eventually running a 34" ultrawide, possibly along with my current 2x 24" monitors. Would I need more power to run that? Should I just be happy with the 980? I got it for a pretty awesome deal, $400 when all said and done. I'm not a tweaker who has to have the top card and pushes it to it's limit, I'm happy if my games just run on great settings. However, with my interest in a bigger monitor and VR, I'm wondering if I need to upgrade.
I'm kicking around the idea of picking up a GTX 970 to replace my 570 SLI setup while 'The Division' is included with purchase.
What are the best 970 options right now? There are so many.
Edit - I'm also not opposed to the equivalent AMD offering. I've just been an Nvidia user forever.
What are the best 970 options right now? There are so many.
Edit - I'm also not opposed to the equivalent AMD offering. I've just been an Nvidia user forever.
DizzyCaffeine
Member
I need some help...
This weekend I built this computer:
i5 6600k
ASUS Z170-AR LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard
EVGA 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400 PC4-19200 CL15 Desktop Memory Kit
Samsung 850 EVO M.2 Series 500GB SATA III M.2 Internal Solid State Drive
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 970
Corsair CX600 PSU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Antec 900 Case
Everything went great. CPU is holding steady at 29 Celcius.
But installing Windows has been an absolute NIGHTMARE. I installed Windows 7 first, and it couldn't retrieve updates. I then tried installing Windows 8, and still couldn't retrieve updates. So I tried the Windows 10 free update program, and it either fails trying to retrieve updates before installing, or I get a error message the moment it's actually ready to install. WTF is going on? Could this in any way be related to the hardware?
I'm back on Windows 7 SP1 with zero updates. I'm just so tired of this crap....someone please tell me if this is all software related or if something could be faulty with the build.
This weekend I built this computer:
i5 6600k
ASUS Z170-AR LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard
EVGA 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400 PC4-19200 CL15 Desktop Memory Kit
Samsung 850 EVO M.2 Series 500GB SATA III M.2 Internal Solid State Drive
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 970
Corsair CX600 PSU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Antec 900 Case
Everything went great. CPU is holding steady at 29 Celcius.
But installing Windows has been an absolute NIGHTMARE. I installed Windows 7 first, and it couldn't retrieve updates. I then tried installing Windows 8, and still couldn't retrieve updates. So I tried the Windows 10 free update program, and it either fails trying to retrieve updates before installing, or I get a error message the moment it's actually ready to install. WTF is going on? Could this in any way be related to the hardware?
I'm back on Windows 7 SP1 with zero updates. I'm just so tired of this crap....someone please tell me if this is all software related or if something could be faulty with the build.
Wowfunhappy
Member
Huh? You have? Jet is great.
i'm getting a HDD error warning from my desktop. It was a Samsung 1TB.
I'm on the market for a new HDD, but I want something that will last. This has been my first HDD failure in 20+ years of pc usage. What are the best 1 or 2 TB drives. It seems every review brings up these HDDs failing regarding manufacturer. Is it the larger data per platter, or what?
I'm on the market for a new HDD, but I want something that will last. This has been my first HDD failure in 20+ years of pc usage. What are the best 1 or 2 TB drives. It seems every review brings up these HDDs failing regarding manufacturer. Is it the larger data per platter, or what?
Wowfunhappy
Member
I'm also curious about this. Would like to buy a pair of 2-4TB drives in the near future. I've read in the past that HGST has the best record, but now that they've been bought by WD...
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
I got a really cheap motherboard from them. The only thing I somewhat didn't like about the process was that they didn't say I was buying from another seller.
You know how Amazon has all those other stores that tell you when you buy an item that you are buying from that store. Jet didn't have that.
I still got my parts from the other seller faster than the parts from Newegg that I ordered at the same time.
I would definitely us Jet if you get some of their insane coupons like the first time you buy something coupon.
MisterNoisy
Member
So I derped and bought RAM well in advance of buying all the other parts for my most recent build, and the RAM I initially bought at super-sale prices wasn't compatible with my chosen motherboard. Because I bought it so far in advance I couldn't return it, so my loss is the gain of someone here. Check to make sure you can use it, but I'll ship it to the first person in the ConUS to quote this post.
4x4GB (16 GB total) DDR4 2666 CL15 Kingston HyperX:
4x4GB (16 GB total) DDR4 2666 CL15 Kingston HyperX:
Wowfunhappy
Member
So I derped and bought RAM well in advance of buying all the other parts for my most recent build, and the RAM I initially bought at super-sale prices wasn't compatible with my chosen motherboard. Because I bought it so far in advance I couldn't return it, so my loss is the gain of someone here. Check to make sure you can use it, but I'll ship it to the first person in the ConUS to quote this post.
4x4GB (16 GB total) DDR4 2666 CL15 Kingston HyperX:
I know I've gotten something from you before, but I could use it! Only one slot filled atm (8gb), and I've been looking to donate that to a family member.
MisterNoisy
Member
One of the more popular answers would be to stick with the 980 you have and wait for the new 'Pascal' lineup of cards set to release in the 2nd half of this year, which rumor tells will see a nice boost over the current line.
Unless you really are aching to blow cash for short-term gains, then bumping up to a 980ti will see some benefits(or a 980 SLI combo I guess). It's really up to you, but I suggest waiting, at least as news regarding the realities of Pascal starts to take shape. It's not like your current build should be hitting any real bottlenecks outside of some extreme cases.
That's a good idea. That may be best. I can't complain. I was going to get a 970 until I got that deal on the 980. I'm mostly just concerned with having enough power to run that monitor setup and VR, eventually.
Every manufacturer has some kind of failure rate. There's no such thing as a company that makes hard drives that all never fail. There are various reasons for hard drives failing. The most well known that I can recall is Seagate's 7200.11 line having bad firmware and IBM Deskstar drives having a design flaw that led to it eventually physically failing.
Around here, we generally recommend Western Digital Blue drives. WD Black is also available with longer warranty, but tends to be quite expensive for the capacity. Other times I'll also recommend Toshiba and Hitachi/HGST, they are generally decently priced and are okay to good for reliability and reviews.
Sounds like something's preventing you from getting updates. Can you explain further why you cannot get updates? Is there some kind of error message? Is Windows activated?
On this page, someone's linked to a cheap deal on a Zotac GTX 970. Otherwise, there are these two moderately higher end models, the MSI Gaming 4G and Gigabyte G1 Gaming. Both are $310 after rebate at Newegg. Both are factory overclocked and feature moderately higher speeds than the Zotac, but can still be overclocked a bit further if you wanna do some tweaking yourself. The MSI is somewhat quieter, being a twin fan model that can turn off its fans at low temperature to run silently. The triple fan Gigabyte model has a large cooler that has more headroom for handling heat from overclocking, but doesn't have that quiet fanless mode. Not to imply the MSI model can't handle more heat or the Gigabyte model is always loud, though. Look up some reviews if you want.
The R9 390 is the AMD competitor. Here's a list of them, the first bunch of cards on that list are quite good even being the cheaper models (except for XFX R9-390P-8BD6). AMD started a new promotion today that bundles the Hitman game with their R9 390 cards, and in general they come in somewhat cheaper than the GTX 970.
Jzero
Member
After missing a few things, I finally got my new build up and running.
Just got my all black Manta as well. Totally worth the price because it feels premium. It's a fingerprint magnet unfortunately .
MisterNoisy
Member
<3 the Manta. Very sharp!
Bloodember
Member
That it is, but it's awesome. Glad I decided to get it.
- Status