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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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DiscoDave

Member
Does anyone know if a max temp of 88 and average temp of low 80s are OK for a msi gtx 970 when running the valley benchmark?

Edit: ignore me im an idiot was looking at the top bar on afterburner. My max is actually 65.
 

Willing

Neo Member
The GTX 960 is newer and might be faster than the HD7950 Boost in some games, but the HD7950 can sometimes even be on par with the GTX 960. At 1080p gaming, Techpowerup puts the non boost HD7950 at 90% the performance of a GTX 960, and Anandtech's bench shows the HD7970 as being mostly equal if not generally faster. I couldn't exactly find any benchmarks that pit the HD7950 Boost against the GTX 960 in a head-to-head showdown, but I would wager that they are fairly evenly matched most of the time. Therefore I'd highly advise against upgrading to a GTX 960 because it's not much of an upgrade if at all for how much money it costs.

Is your HD7950 Boost having any issues running games at the settings you want to play at?.
Thanks for your reply! The 7950 Boost is serving me quite well so far, but I like to check up on things like this. With the weak euro compared to a couple of years ago, it seems like it is very hard for me to even achieve the same kind of performance/euro balance as I did when I got my current card!

It'll stay with me for a while still.
 

Flaxh

Member
If you want the ability to overclock, you'll want a Z170 motherboard. B150 is compatible and does work, but has fewer features and does not allow the option of overclocking. I would highly recommend a graphics card with 4GB of VRAM. Games at 1080p can already go over 2GB of VRAM usage at moderate to higher graphics settings. Lastly, I'd recommend a different power supply. Corsair's CX line is only so-so when it comes to build quality, they're the cheapest models that they offer.

Here's what I'd recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($117.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($188.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $790.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-09 13:08 EST-0500

It does cost more, but you are getting better parts.

Hello! My cousin is upgrading his PC and asked me for help choosing the new parts. I think he has some things that can translate to the new rig:

Monitor -> LG 24MP67 - http://www.lg.com/au/it-monitors/lg-24MP67
Case ----> CoolerMaster N300 KKN1 - http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/n300/
PSU -----> XFX Pro 550W 80+ Bronze - http://www.xfxforce.com/en-us/products/all-previous-psus/pro-series-550w-psu-p1-550s-xxb9
SSD -----> Crucial BX100 120GB - http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/ct120bx100ssd1

These parts plus the suggested build from that post should make a good PC, no? His current GPU is a R7 260X.
 

Crisium

Member
Hello! My cousin is upgrading his PC and asked me for help choosing the new parts. I think he has some things that can translate to the new rig:

Monitor -> LG 24MP67 - http://www.lg.com/au/it-monitors/lg-24MP67
Case ----> CoolerMaster N300 KKN1 - http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/n300/
PSU -----> XFX Pro 550W 80+ Bronze - http://www.xfxforce.com/en-us/products/all-previous-psus/pro-series-550w-psu-p1-550s-xxb9
SSD -----> Crucial BX100 120GB - http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/ct120bx100ssd1

These parts plus the suggested build from that post should make a good PC, no? His current GPU is a R7 260X.

As an alternate to the 380 that RGM79 posted, if you / your cousin are willing to do rebates there is a 380X for only $1 more than that 380 (after rebate, or else its $21 more) from Newegg:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-video-card-r9380x4255

If you don't value the rebate it's perhaps not worth it though, as there is only a single digit percentage performance difference.
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
So, better option?

-(2) 500GB SSD setup in a RAID 0
-(1) 1TB SSD alone.

This would be specifically for Steam games. Both options are roughly identical in pricing, just unsure if a RAID adds any real benefit for gaming.

Thanks!
 

kennah

Member
So, better option?

-(2) 500GB SSD setup in a RAID 0
-(1) 1TB SSD alone.

This would be specifically for Steam games. Both options are roughly identical in pricing, just unsure if a RAID adds any real benefit for gaming.

Thanks!

Single SSD. Less risk of failure
 

McHuj

Member
FFS, Newegg.

New Skylake CPU and MB arrive today. Memory gets sent as a separate shipment and won't arrive until Monday.
 
So, better option?

-(2) 500GB SSD setup in a RAID 0
-(1) 1TB SSD alone.

This would be specifically for Steam games. Both options are roughly identical in pricing, just unsure if a RAID adds any real benefit for gaming.

Thanks!
Even a single SSD has limited benefits in gaming. Your games will install and load faster but performance wise you will barely notice a difference. Would be a waste to run a RAID setup for games. You're going to need the extra space a lot more with game sizes these days, especially if you mod them.
 
Sorry if this question doesn't fit here...I'm not sure where else to ask without starting a new thread.

So I built my PC this last December; everything has been great! However, recently I've been having troubles with Chrome.

Whenever I wake my PC from "Sleep Mode" Chrome won't open. I'll click to open, I'll see the little loading circle for a few seconds, then nothing. Whenever I check my Task Manager it shows that Chrome is open...but it isn't :/.

I've tried reinstalling and that doesn't help. Resetting my PC allows me to open Chrome, but if I put it to sleep and try to open after waking, I get the same issues. So I have to reset my PC whenever I want to use Chrome.

Is this a known issue and are there any fixes? I will mention that I recently switched my Anti-Virus from Norton to Avast! Maybe my anti-virus settings are preventing Chrome from always opening?

Edit - I'm using Windows 10 btw.
 

joecanada

Member
If you want the ability

Here's what I'd recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($25.75 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($117.75 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R9 380 4GB PCS+ Video Card ($188.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($41.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $790.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-09 13:08 EST-0500

It does cost more, but you are getting better parts.

I'm looking for a new video card as well. Any reason you recommend the 380 over say a gtx 960?
Or say a 290 for similar price??
 

Crisium

Member
I'm looking for a new video card as well. Any reason you recommend the 380 over say a gtx 960?

Comparisons of the two generally show that the 380 is faster on average in games that don't favour either architecture. The main reasons to prefer a 960 generally come down to 1x6pin if you have a PSU restriction, HDMI 2.0 if you want to 4K@60Hz television support, or if you strongly value Nvidia features over AMD features. Another big negative against the 960 is the even faster 380X available, which further extends AMD's performance at this price point.

4GB 960, 380, and 380X:
http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/video-card/#c=208,310,355&r=4096&sort=a8&page=1

At the current prices the cheapest 380X there is a clear winner on the raw performance front. Here is a performance summary:
http://www.sweclockers.com/test/21303-amd-radeon-r9-380x/16#content

Also as you can see the 290, 970, 390 peformance tier is much faster than even the 380X so if you can stretch the budget or are willing to go used they are certainly worth it.
 

Mystic654

Member
I'm Basically done, Minus some Cable clean up.

1000

1000

1000



Water Temps:

1000


PC Temps:

1000


CPU Temps: 27C (My motherboard CPU temp has been off ever since I updated to Bios 1.20, Hopefully MSI will address it in the next update)
GPU Temps: 27C

My Rooms temps are a bit warmer then usually, due to sudden burst of warm temperatures outside.

----

Currently only issue I'm having is my capture card refuses to detect any kind of signal. Going get that replaced. Hopefully it's just faulty hardware.

Specs:

Code:
--------------
Main PC Parts
--------------

CPU: i7 5960x
Motherboard: MSI Godlike x99
Case: Case-Labs S8S (Standard Window (Left & Right) | Ventilated Flex-Bay | USB 3.0 Addon | PSU Mount | 120.2 Flex-Bay Addon | 36mm Ventilated Extended Top | 120.3 Drop
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum 64GB 2800MHz C14
Harddrives: 2x Samsung 850 Pro 1TB | 4x Western Digital Green 6TB
Graphics Card: MSI Nvidia GTX 980 Ti
Fans: 2x BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120mm PWM (Exhaust)
Drive: LG Blu-Ray 16x With USB 3.0 Enclosure
Network: ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter
OS: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit
Cable: 6x Darkside Braided Sata Cables (45cm)
Cable: Darkside PWM Fan extension cable (50 & 70 cm)
PSU: EVGA SuperNova 1000w P2
PSU Cable: CableMod Sleeving - Black + Cablemod Combs (Black)
Lighting: x4 Darkside Rigid RGB 30cm + Darkside RGB Controller with Remote + x4 RGB extension cable (50cm + 30cm)
Capture Card: Elgato HD60 Pro
Monitor: Dell: 27 Inche 1440p IPS Monitor
Keyboard: Logitech G910
Mouse: Logitech G502

-------------------
WaterCooling Parts
-------------------

Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black
Bitspower Matte Black Rotary Fitting "Q" PLUS - 360 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
Aquacomputer Passive Heatsink for Aquaero 6 - Black
Bitspower G1/4" Black Matte Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate for ID 3/8" OD 5/8
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue USB Fan-Controller, Graphic-LCD, Touch Control, IR Remote Control
Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal
Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5 Water Pumps - With Speed Control
EK-FC980 GTX TF5 Backplate Rev. 2 - Black (for MSI 980 Ti)
EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel (For MSI 980 Ti)
Bitspower Matt Black T-Block With Triple IG1/4"
Bitspower BP-MVV-MBK Mini-Valve - Matte Black
DEMCiflex 120mm Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Black
DEMCiflex 240mm Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Black
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
Bitspower Flow Indicator with Digital Flow Meter - Clear/Black/Matte Black
Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Rotary Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 60-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting Ultimate-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS - Black Carbon
HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS - Black Carbon
HardwareLabs Black Ice SR-2 240 MP
HardwareLabs Black Ice SR-2 120 MP
Darkside Flexible Tube 3/8″ ID, 5/8″ OD (10/16mm) -Blue UV
DazMode Protector
GELID Extreme Thermal Compound GC-Extreme
Distilled Water x3 Gallons
Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan (550-1850rpm) 58cfm - Black Edition PWM
 

Juanfp

Member
Maybe a will sound like a total noob. but what is triple buffering. I just read that is better to use than v-sync, so i went to the nvidia control panel ann put on triple buffering on the witcher 3 and desactive vsync in game. Now the game feels smoother when I play with 60 fps cap (cant reach 60 locked).
 

RGM79

Member
Does anyone know if a max temp of 88 and average temp of low 80s are OK for a msi gtx 970 when running the valley benchmark?

Edit: ignore me im an idiot was looking at the top bar on afterburner. My max is actually 65.

MSI makes a few different GTX 970 models, some run cooler than others. If your max is 65, then that's definitely fine. You don't need to worry unless it hits 80~90 degrees.

Hello! My cousin is upgrading his PC and asked me for help choosing the new parts. I think he has some things that can translate to the new rig:

Monitor -> LG 24MP67 - http://www.lg.com/au/it-monitors/lg-24MP67
Case ----> CoolerMaster N300 KKN1 - http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/n300/
PSU -----> XFX Pro 550W 80+ Bronze - http://www.xfxforce.com/en-us/products/all-previous-psus/pro-series-550w-psu-p1-550s-xxb9
SSD -----> Crucial BX100 120GB - http://eu.crucial.com/eur/en/ct120bx100ssd1

These parts plus the suggested build from that post should make a good PC, no? His current GPU is a R7 260X.

It'll be fine. If you don't mind telling me what country he's in, how much he wants to spend, and if there are any retailers he prefers to order from, I could put together a list for you to pass to him. Parts can vary in cost between countries, so the parts list that runs under $800 USD might actually cost more in the USD equivalent in other regions of the world.

As an alternate to the 380 that RGM79 posted, if you / your cousin are willing to do rebates there is a 380X for only $1 more than that 380 (after rebate, or else its $21 more) from Newegg:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-video-card-r9380x4255

If you don't value the rebate it's perhaps not worth it though, as there is only a single digit percentage performance difference.

Oh wow, that's a good deal, and very recent. It wasn't there when I checked for R9 380X prices before.

I'm looking for a new video card as well. Any reason you recommend the 380 over say a gtx 960?
Or say a 290 for similar price??

At the time that I put the parts list together, that specific R9 380 is a decent model and still cost less than the cheapest GTX 960 which was some crappy model with a reference cooler. There's also the R9 380X deal that Crisium helpfully pointed out above.

How much is the R9 290 you're talking about? What model is it? Is it still under warranty? An R9 290 would be quite a bit more powerful than a GTX 960 or R9 380.'

Figured I'd share just in case anyone has a use for this: On IGN Deals there was this $1000 XPS 8900 prebuilt PC for around $620.

Processor: 6th Generation Intel® Core™ i7-6700 Processor (8M Cache, up to 4.0 GHz)
Graphics Card: NVIDIA® GeForce® GT 730 2GB DDR3
Memory: 8GB Dual Channel DDR4 2133MHz (4GBx2)​

Promo code N?QJ$XPMJPDSX2

It's okay, I guess. You can put together a similar PC including Windows for a little bit more, and you don't get a super low wattage power supply or a proprietary case. For gaming purposes the GT 730 would be replaced, and if not gaming then the processor's integrated graphics would be good enough.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($33.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($87.95 @ OutletPC)
Total: $629.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-09 21:51 EST-0500
 

Flaxh

Member
MIt'll be fine. If you don't mind telling me what country he's in, how much he wants to spend, and if there are any retailers he prefers to order from, I could put together a list for you to pass to him. Parts can vary in cost between countries, so the parts list that runs under $800 USD might actually cost more in the USD equivalent in other regions of the world.

We're from Portugal.He's probably spending around 800€ on cpu, mobo and gpu because he has a 100€ voucher to use and he's gonna get the RAM that way.

There's a big difference between the US and PT prices yeah, specially with items like EVGA PSUs and the 980ti. The Gigabyte z170xp-sli costs around 150€ here :S

I recently discovered this spanish store called PCComponentes and I might start ordering everything from there.
 

RGM79

Member
We're from Portugal.He's probably spending around 800€ on cpu, mobo and gpu because he has a 100€ voucher to use and he's gonna get the RAM that way.

There's a big difference between the US and PT prices yeah, specially with items like EVGA PSUs and the 980ti. The Gigabyte z170xp-sli costs around 150€ here :S

I recently discovered this spanish store called PCComponentes and I might start ordering everything from there.

Alright. Do you think he'll be interested in overclocking? If not then he can opt for a slightly cheaper and lower performing non-overclockable processor and motherboard.

Sorry if this question doesn't fit here...I'm not sure where else to ask without starting a new thread.

So I built my PC this last December; everything has been great! However, recently I've been having troubles with Chrome.

Whenever I wake my PC from "Sleep Mode" Chrome won't open. I'll click to open, I'll see the little loading circle for a few seconds, then nothing. Whenever I check my Task Manager it shows that Chrome is open...but it isn't :/.

I've tried reinstalling and that doesn't help. Resetting my PC allows me to open Chrome, but if I put it to sleep and try to open after waking, I get the same issues. So I have to reset my PC whenever I want to use Chrome.

Is this a known issue and are there any fixes? I will mention that I recently switched my Anti-Virus from Norton to Avast! Maybe my anti-virus settings are preventing Chrome from always opening?

Edit - I'm using Windows 10 btw.

Have you tried killing Chrome.exe in task manager then trying to reload it? If you think Avast may be stopping Chrome from opening, exit Avast or right click on the tray icon and turn off the Avast shields, then see if Chrome still fails to open.

You can try posting in the gaf tech support thread to cast a wider net for help.
 

Flaxh

Member
Alright. Do you think he'll be interested in overclocking? If not then he can opt for a slightly cheaper and lower performing non-overclockable processor and motherboard.

I wouldn't say he's not interested but he doesn't really know how to overclock. Getting the "k" version was my suggestion because he'll probably spend less than 100€ and down the road he may change his mind and get that extra value from the CPU. It's something similar to what happened to me when I decided to buy the 3570k and I'm now getting to a point where I see value in OCing it.

This is specially true with the 2500k vs the non k version but I'm not that expert either.
 

mulac

Member
Random question; apologies - i'm about to move my current rig into a new case. i have a few hdd's internal + my win10 installation is sitting on a 60gb ssd card.

Question is: when I move the mobo, graphics card, everything into the new case - do I need to reinstall Windows10 or will it all stay the same when I plug the disks into the new case?
 

BorntoPlay

Member
I wouldn't say he's not interested but he doesn't really know how to overclock. Getting the "k" version was my suggestion because he'll probably spend less than 100€ and down the road he may change his mind and get that extra value from the CPU. It's something similar to what happened to me when I decided to buy the 3570k and I'm now getting to a point where I see value in OCing it.

This is specially true with the 2500k vs the non k version but I'm not that expert either.

You can overclock non-k skylake cpu with z170 boards, but is not as easy as a k version..
 

RGM79

Member
You can overclock non-k skylake cpu with z170 boards, but is not as easy as a k version..

Intel's cracking down on it and getting motherboard manufacturers to remove support for it, it seems. So long as he doesn't mind paying for it, I'd recommend the i5 6600K rather than the 6500 especially if he -might- overclock a few years down the line and not right away.

I wouldn't say he's not interested but he doesn't really know how to overclock. Getting the "k" version was my suggestion because he'll probably spend less than 100€ and down the road he may change his mind and get that extra value from the CPU. It's something similar to what happened to me when I decided to buy the 3570k and I'm now getting to a point where I see value in OCing it.

This is specially true with the 2500k vs the non k version but I'm not that expert either.

Here you go. The item names and numbers are visible in the picture.

byFyZQS.jpg


Random question; apologies - i'm about to move my current rig into a new case. i have a few hdd's internal + my win10 installation is sitting on a 60gb ssd card.

Question is: when I move the mobo, graphics card, everything into the new case - do I need to reinstall Windows10 or will it all stay the same when I plug the disks into the new case?

Windows doesn't care about the case, it doesn't interact or connect with it in any way. You won't need to reinstall anything.
 

sfried

Member
The parts are coming in quite well. I did a few changes to certain things, like choosing the new Corsair SF600 power supply instead of the Silverstone one (due to reliability issues with the latter), and also going with the Kingston HyperX Savage RAM due to its lower profile:

Current PCPartPicker list
  • CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
  • CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet CPU Cooler
  • Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
  • Memory: Kingston Savage 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory CAS14
  • Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive*
    Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
    Toshiba 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive*
  • Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 Nano 4GB Video Card White Edition
  • Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case
  • Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
  • Optical Drive: Panasonic ​​​UJ240 6x​ ​B​lu-ray​ B​ur​ner ​BD-​RE/​8x​ DVD​±RW

*I'm still currently contemplating about needing the M.2 SSD drive: One thing I really do want to take advantge of is the fast boot times it would allow (5 second boot times) if I have it. This makes me consider if I need the 4TB storage in the first place. The problem is, I intend to install ALL of my (150+) Steam games so I don't have to bother with uninstalling. I originally precured a 1TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD as being a replacement for my current build's 1TB HDD (I was planning on ghosting/cloning the entire contents of my current HDD on to it), then decided it might work better if I just utilize this SSD on my newest rig with a clean install.

In short, I feel undecisive if I really need to have my 1TB Samsung 850 EVO in here, or if the 4TB of storage seems redundant, or perhaps that having M.2 is a bit of an overkill. Then again, pretty much some parts feel like overkill (i7-6700k, perhaps at its factory turbo can still work alright for my rig), as I see the rise of people making ITX power builds using cases such as the fractal Node 202.
 

RGM79

Member
The parts are coming in quite well. I did a few changes to certain things, like choosing the new Corsair SF600 power supply instead of the Silverstone one (due to reliability issues with the latter), and also going with the Kingston HyperX Savage RAM due to its lower profile:

Current PCPartPicker list
  • CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
  • CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet CPU Cooler
  • Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
  • Memory: Kingston Savage 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory CAS14
  • Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive*
    Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
    Toshiba 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive*
  • Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 Nano 4GB Video Card White Edition
  • Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case
  • Power Supply: Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply
  • Optical Drive: Panasonic ​​​UJ240 6x​ ​B​lu-ray​ B​ur​ner ​BD-​RE/​8x​ DVD​±RW

*I'm still currently contemplating about needing the M.2 SSD drive: One thing I really do want to take advantge of is the fast boot times it would allow (5 second boot times) if I have it. This makes me consider if I need the 4TB storage in the first place. The problem is, I intend to install ALL of my (150+) Steam games so I don't have to bother with uninstalling. I originally precured a 1TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD as being a replacement for my current build's 1TB HDD (I was planning on ghosting/cloning the entire contents of my current HDD on to it), then decided it might work better if I just utilize this SSD on my newest rig with a clean install.

In short, I feel undecisive if I really need to have my 1TB Samsung 850 EVO in here, or if the 4TB of storage seems redundant, or perhaps that having M.2 is a bit of an overkill. Then again, pretty much some parts feel like overkill (i7-6700k, perhaps at its factory turbo can still work alright for my rig), as I see the rise of people making ITX power builds using cases such as the fractal Node 202.

Go all in. OS and a few of the most beneficial/important games on the M.2 drive, then the rest of the more important games on the 1TB SSD, then everything else including the stuff you never play can go on the 4TB drive.

Are you regretting how much you're paying, or just feeling cautious?
 

paskowitz

Member
I'm Basically done, Minus some Cable clean up.

1000

1000

1000



Water Temps:

1000


PC Temps:

1000


CPU Temps: 27C (My motherboard CPU temp has been off ever since I updated to Bios 1.20, Hopefully MSI will address it in the next update)
GPU Temps: 27C

My Rooms temps are a bit warmer then usually, due to sudden burst of warm temperatures outside.

----

Currently only issue I'm having is my capture card refuses to detect any kind of signal. Going get that replaced. Hopefully it's just faulty hardware.

Specs:

Code:
--------------
Main PC Parts
--------------

CPU: i7 5960x
Motherboard: MSI Godlike x99
Case: Case-Labs S8S (Standard Window (Left & Right) | Ventilated Flex-Bay | USB 3.0 Addon | PSU Mount | 120.2 Flex-Bay Addon | 36mm Ventilated Extended Top | 120.3 Drop
Ram: Corsair Dominator Platinum 64GB 2800MHz C14
Harddrives: 2x Samsung 850 Pro 1TB | 4x Western Digital Green 6TB
Graphics Card: MSI Nvidia GTX 980 Ti
Fans: 2x BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120mm PWM (Exhaust)
Drive: LG Blu-Ray 16x With USB 3.0 Enclosure
Network: ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter
OS: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit
Cable: 6x Darkside Braided Sata Cables (45cm)
Cable: Darkside PWM Fan extension cable (50 & 70 cm)
PSU: EVGA SuperNova 1000w P2
PSU Cable: CableMod Sleeving - Black + Cablemod Combs (Black)
Lighting: x4 Darkside Rigid RGB 30cm + Darkside RGB Controller with Remote + x4 RGB extension cable (50cm + 30cm)
Capture Card: Elgato HD60 Pro
Monitor: Dell: 27 Inche 1440p IPS Monitor
Keyboard: Logitech G910
Mouse: Logitech G502

-------------------
WaterCooling Parts
-------------------

Aquacomputer Front Faceplate for Aquaero 5/6 XT Aluminium - Black
Bitspower Matte Black Rotary Fitting "Q" PLUS - 360 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
Aquacomputer Passive Heatsink for Aquaero 6 - Black
Bitspower G1/4" Black Matte Compression Fitting CC3 Ultimate for ID 3/8" OD 5/8
Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT Blue USB Fan-Controller, Graphic-LCD, Touch Control, IR Remote Control
Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal
Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5 Water Pumps - With Speed Control
EK-FC980 GTX TF5 Backplate Rev. 2 - Black (for MSI 980 Ti)
EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel (For MSI 980 Ti)
Bitspower Matt Black T-Block With Triple IG1/4"
Bitspower BP-MVV-MBK Mini-Valve - Matte Black
DEMCiflex 120mm Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Black
DEMCiflex 240mm Magnetic Fan Dust Filter - Black
Bitspower Premium G1/4" Matte Black Stop Fitting
Bitspower Flow Indicator with Digital Flow Meter - Clear/Black/Matte Black
Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Male to Male Rotary Adapter
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Rotary Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 60-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 90-Degree Compression Fitting Ultimate-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary 45-Degree Compression Fitting-ID 3/8" OD 5/8" - V3
Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Dual Rotary Angle IG1/4" Extender
HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS - Black Carbon
HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS - Black Carbon
HardwareLabs Black Ice SR-2 240 MP
HardwareLabs Black Ice SR-2 120 MP
Darkside Flexible Tube 3/8″ ID, 5/8″ OD (10/16mm) -Blue UV
DazMode Protector
GELID Extreme Thermal Compound GC-Extreme
Distilled Water x3 Gallons
Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan (550-1850rpm) 58cfm - Black Edition PWM

That's nice, real nice. I assume you built your rig with more than games in mind?

Temps under load? CPU and GPU clocks?

Also, I see you on overclocked.net :p
 

BorntoPlay

Member
Intel's cracking down on it and getting motherboard manufacturers to remove support for it, it seems. So long as he doesn't mind paying for it, I'd recommend the i5 6600K rather than the 6500 especially if he -might- overclock a few years down the line and not right away.

If you never update you bios again, you can have overclock non-k cpu for years to come... but you are right, at this point is better to get a K version...
 

DiscoDave

Member
MSI makes a few different GTX 970 models, some run cooler than others. If your max is 65, then that's definitely fine. You don't need to worry unless it hits 80~90 degrees.

It's the twin frozr V model. Yea seen it get to 67 now. Will overclock the CPU and the 970 when I have a better PSU in there as 88 seems high for power doesn't it? (I take it that means percentage of PSU power on the top of the afterburner graphs).
 

sfried

Member
Go all in. OS and a few of the most beneficial/important games on the M.2 drive, then the rest of the more important games on the 1TB SSD, then everything else including the stuff you never play can go on the 4TB drive.

Are you regretting how much you're paying, or just feeling cautious?
A little bit of both. Truth be told I'm nearing the finish line (I only need to get my hands on that pesky i7-6700k at a somewhat discounted price), and I might have gone a bit overkill on storage. Then again, perhaps I simply want to alleviate having too many external USB hard drives connected to my device, though one must never underestimate to usefullness of having decentralized storage.

I might make my M.2 house most benefiial apps (Photoshop, PaintoolSAI, Clip Studio Paint and the like), with the 1TB for stuff like RotTR/GTV/Ryse and other 50GB AAA whatever games. Lower-profile games can still probably be played in HDD at pretty speedy loading times still.
 

joecanada

Member
Ah regarding 380 vs gt960 vs r9 290... I saw it on a forum so maybe the 290 had a special on when that discussion occurred (as they recommended looking for a 290)
It does appear the 290 is actually more in line pricewise to the gt970 so that makes more sense.
 

Dascu

Member
Looking to build a strong new PC but I'm wondering how many parts of my old desktop I could potentially still re-use.

I'm thinking about the case, the monitor, the motherboard and power supply in particular:

Gigabyte GZ-X1 Black, 4X 5,25", 2X 3,5"

Acer 21.5" Wide V223HQ 1920x1080 (16:9 HD), 10000:1, 5ms, VGA

Gigabyte GA-MA790GP-UD4H,Socket-AM2+/AM3 AMD 790GX+SB750, ATX, DDR2 , Firewire, GbLAN, HDMI, 2xPCI-Ex(2.0)x16

Corsair Powersupply 650W Black, ATX/EPS, 120mm Fan, 8xSATA, SLI

Do I throw all these in the trash, so to speak, or would one or the other part still be efficient when paired with new high-end CPU and GPU?
 

RGM79

Member
Looking to build a strong new PC but I'm wondering how many parts of my old desktop I could potentially still re-use.

I'm thinking about the case, the monitor, the motherboard and power supply in particular:



Do I throw all these in the trash, so to speak, or would one or the other part still be efficient when paired with new high-end CPU and GPU?

How much are you thinking of spending on a new PC? How much you can afford to spend can dictate whether you need to same money by reusing parts.

What model of Corsair PSU is it? The case is kinda cheap and limited, but still somewhat useful if you ever want to put different parts into it. Maybe for a spare PC. The motherboard is old and will limit what you can do with it. It won't really allow for a very powerful PC, so if anything you can leave it around for use in a spare PC or get rid of it. The monitor is definitely reusable.
 

Dascu

Member
How much are you thinking of spending on a new PC? How much you can afford to spend can dictate whether you need to same money by reusing parts.

What model of Corsair PSU is it? The case is kinda cheap and limited, but still somewhat useful if you ever want to put different parts into it. Maybe for a spare PC. The motherboard is old and will limit what you can do with it. It won't really allow for a very powerful PC, so if anything you can leave it around for use in a spare PC or get rid of it. The monitor is definitely reusable.

€700-800 preferably. I was indeed thinking of keeping the monitor and PSU for now while chucking out the rest. They're also items I can more easily replace later on anyway.

On that note, any recommendations on whether or not to wait for a few more months before buying new CPU/GPUs? I know this is a common question, but I wanted to know if there will be any substantial new releases before the summer.
 

rrs

Member
Any Gaf thoughts on an i5 6600k vs an i7 6700k as pertaining to a 4k gaming rig build? I'm leaning towards a Corsair Bulldog case and moving towards couch gaming on my 4k set.

I'd put the $100 difference towards a nicer cooler and go overclock the 6600K to the moon. 6700K can get 20% more speed for programs that can use hyperthreading but if you are going there take into consideration that a 5820K Haswell-E board can easily bring more future proofing than that thing ever could for a slightly increased price (depending on build)
 

tiijj

Member
I need some advice, I'm looking at the R7 370 and GTX 960. The R7 370 is around $60-80 cheaper than than GTX 960. Do you guys think the GTX 960 is worth the $60-80 difference?
 

finalflame

Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $389.99)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $39.95)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $149.99)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $103.19)
Storage: Mushkin Reactor 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $242.99)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card (Purchased For $609.99)
Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case (Purchased For $64.99)
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply (Purchased For $129.99)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Monitor: Acer XB271HU bmiprz 165Hz 27.0" Monitor (Purchased For $769.99)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00)
Headphones: Plantronics Gamecom 780 7.1 Channel Headset (Purchased For $0.00)
Other: KÛL ES-87 (Cherry MX Green) (Purchased)
Total: $2501.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-10 11:53 EST-0500

Already took the plunge. The prices listed aren't necessarily the lowest for each part -- i prioritized Amazon Prime for whatever I could and Newegg for the parts I couldn't get on Prime (just the XB271HU). Basically for me fast shipping > price.

I'll get all the PC components today and get to hook it up to my current DP2710LED Korean 1440p IPS panel, but HOPEFULLY the XB271HU arrives by the weekend (packaging now, fingers crossed). Gonna be my first experience with G-Sync and I am psyched :)
 

ACE 1991

Member
My friend now works at Intel and can get CPUs 50% off retail, he's looking into getting me an i5 6600K. Not sure if purchasing products for friends/family super frowned upon, though.
 

RGM79

Member
My friend now works at Intel and can get CPUs 50% off retail, he's looking into getting me an i5 6600K. Not sure if purchasing products for friends/family super frowned upon, though.

Lucky you. As far as I know, reselling for a profit is frowned upon, but not buying for friends and family.. as long as it's within reasonable limits. If they didn't want to have employees buying for other people, they would limit how many they can buy or just give them a temporary discount or coupon as opposed to a permanent employee discount.

€700-800 preferably. I was indeed thinking of keeping the monitor and PSU for now while chucking out the rest. They're also items I can more easily replace later on anyway.

On that note, any recommendations on whether or not to wait for a few more months before buying new CPU/GPUs? I know this is a common question, but I wanted to know if there will be any substantial new releases before the summer.

Nvidia's Pascal and AMD's Polaris are two new graphics card product lines coming this year, but I think the chances of them launching the mid to high end cards before the summer are slim. Intel's Kaby Lake line of processors are also sorta similarly far away, at best it'll be sometime in the second half of this year.

What country are you in? Do you have any retailers you prefer to order from?

I need some advice, I'm looking at the R7 370 and GTX 960. The R7 370 is around $60-80 cheaper than than GTX 960. Do you guys think the GTX 960 is worth the $60-80 difference?

Depends on what games you play and what settings or framerate you want to play at. The GTX 960 is more powerful, no question there. Depending on what your price range is, have you considered the GTX 750 Ti and 950, as well as the R9 380? The former two are Nvidia's counterpart to the R7 370 and the latter is AMD's competitor to the GTX 960.
 

Crisium

Member
I need some advice, I'm looking at the R7 370 and GTX 960. The R7 370 is around $60-80 cheaper than than GTX 960. Do you guys think the GTX 960 is worth the $60-80 difference?

In general I would go in this order of recommendation at that price range: 380, 960, 950, 370. That tends to be the average performance from fastest to slowest, although other factors may came into play if you have other considerations than performance.
 

tiijj

Member
Depends on what games you play and what settings or framerate you want to play at. The GTX 960 is more powerful, no question there. Depending on what your price range is, have you considered the GTX 750 Ti and 950, as well as the R9 380? The former two are Nvidia's counterpart to the R7 370 and the latter is AMD's competitor to the GTX 960.

In general I would go in this order of recommendation at that price range: 380, 960, 950, 370. That tends to be the average performance from fastest to slowest, although other factors may came into play if you have other considerations than performance.

Ok, thanks for the suggestions. I think the 380 might be good, it's a little bit cheaper than the 960. 950 might be good as well since it's in the middle in terms of price with the 960 and 370. I was thinking if I wanted to put more money on the gpu but I need to cut back on some of the other parts.

Thanks
 

joecanada

Member
In general I would go in this order of recommendation at that price range: 380, 960, 950, 370. That tends to be the average performance from fastest to slowest, although other factors may came into play if you have other considerations than performance.

If you did go 950 , is 950ti the best one? what are the benefits to the ti models?
 

Crisium

Member
If you did go 950 , is 950ti the best one? what are the benefits to the ti models?

There isn't a 950 Ti that I'm aware of. They come in a variety of clock speeds though since many are factory overclocked. So outside of preferring a certain size or a quieter cooler the best would generally be the fastest clocked. Though if you pay too much for a speed premium you're better off getting the 380 or 960 at that point.
 
What's a decent OC for a i5 6600k with a Cooler Master Evo? Mine's currently at 4.4, but I think I can go higher. I just don't want to make my system less stable by doing so.
 

joecanada

Member
There isn't a 950 Ti that I'm aware of. They come in a variety of clock speeds though since many are factory overclocked. So outside of preferring a certain size or a quieter cooler the best would generally be the fastest clocked. Though if you pay too much for a speed premium you're better off getting the 380 or 960 at that point.

oh crap I must have been looking at another model but thanks for the explanation makes sense.
 

RGM79

Member
Ok, thanks for the suggestions. I think the 380 might be good, it's a little bit cheaper than the 960. 950 might be good as well since it's in the middle in terms of price with the 960 and 370. I was thinking if I wanted to put more money on the gpu but I need to cut back on some of the other parts.

Thanks

What are your PC's specs? Planning some upgrades? What are you getting and how much do the parts cost, and what country are you in? Maybe we can figure out the best bang for your buck.

What's a decent OC for a i5 6600k with a Cooler Master Evo? Mine's currently at 4.4, but I think I can go higher. I just don't want to make my system less stable by doing so.
You could go to 4.5GHz or even 4.6GHz maybe. Stability depends on silicon lottery, voltage settings, and how comfortable you are with heat and noise.
 

clashfan

Member
Can someone recommend a good system builder? I was thinking about origin pc but I found some online reviews from people who said they are not that good...
 
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