Just yesterday I was looking for a similar small case (ATX support, but no drive bays) and went with the Corsair 400Q. May not suit your needs if you're planning on installing a lot of hard drives though.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Just yesterday I was looking for a similar small case (ATX support, but no drive bays) and went with the Corsair 400Q. May not suit your needs if you're planning on installing a lot of hard drives though.
CrashPrime
Member
My advice is to drop the 750 on whatever highest sku pascal card you can snag. Using those funds on 2 cards won't benefit you as much as 1 card at that price.
That said, I am using todays and previous markets to assume that to be the case. There just might be a pascal magic bullet solution that makes it cost effective. It hasn't happened before tho.
Also don't fool yourself saying you can go "SLI later, for cheaper". The high end cards hold their value more than they should. My 670's sold for way more than they should have. The R9 390 was a no brainer.
I'll try asking again:
So, I need more RAM (I have the DDR3 G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM 1600MHz 4GB (2x2GB) CL7-8-7-24 1.5v) since 4GB aren't quite enough for recent games and also Photoshop.
What's the best course of action? Add more or replace it? Any recommendations?
So, I need more RAM (I have the DDR3 G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM 1600MHz 4GB (2x2GB) CL7-8-7-24 1.5v) since 4GB aren't quite enough for recent games and also Photoshop.
What's the best course of action? Add more or replace it? Any recommendations?
DeathByBacklog
Member
That is a RIDICULOUSLY sexy comp. Wow. I'd buy that if they sold it anywhere but that's a custom build right?
Ok...I over did it. I know I over did it. But I should at least not have to worry about having to buy any hard drives for a while. I went comparison shopping for those blues. Then stumbled across the Reds and researched how those are ideal for NAS systems. So I kinda locked into that. Then went the extra bit and bought the 4TB ones instead. Just under $550 Canadian (what the hell have I done?). BUT I reasoned it this way...
- bought it off of Dell using eBates current promo of 13% back.
- also signed up as a Dell Advantage member so I'll get an additional 5% back to use up in 90 days.
- I'll have 1 Green to replace the dying Seagate, with a second to back up to.
- I won't have to worry about filling up my NAS anytime soon. I've doubled the existing capacity while I only had 75% of the existing drives used.
- all the reviews I read/watched spoke very highly of the Reds and that they truly are the best drives to use in a NAS.
So um...yeah...that's how I reasoned it. Going to also call Dell and see if I can get any kind of a deal on them as they weren't on sale. Have to wait a couple of hours for the order to show up in there system. When I asked if there was a good chance for a discount, the rep did explain they would have to see what they're mark up was on them. *fingers crossed*
lordfuzzybutt
Member
What is your motherboard?
Should have worded that better. I meant to say that since I have $750, buying 2 high end cards would really be like buying one, since the birthday money would pretty much cover the cost of one card. Pretty much I'd either buy 2 high end pascal cards(whatever the pascal equivalent of the 980 is...unless the Ti comes out at the same time, which I doubt) and put them in SLI or just one high end pascal card.
Sorry, I copypasted the wrong RAM from another build, lol.
I have the DDR3 G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM 1600MHz 4GB (2x2GB) CL7-8-7-24 1.5v and the mobo is the Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3.
I might be wrong but I think that the max frequency you can achieve is 2133MHz so you can get 2x 8GB 2133MHz and replace those dimms.
EDIT: Pretty much confirmed here.
Hi guys! Using this thread i bought my first pc. Gtx 980 ti ( MSI ), i7 5930k, 32 ( or was it 64 ) ddr4 ram on an asus x99 motherboard.
Being a huge leap from my budget laptop past, i was expecting things to work 60 fps 4k everything on ultra. Some games do, but division for example runs at 20 fps like that, eww.
What settings could i turn off at 4k that have a huge impact on performance and at the same time don't add enough graphical niceness in comparison? Or do you guys think 60 fps 4k itself is bottlenecking the system?
Also, I'm very new to overclocking, do you guys advise i overclock any of the components?
Being a huge leap from my budget laptop past, i was expecting things to work 60 fps 4k everything on ultra. Some games do, but division for example runs at 20 fps like that, eww.
What settings could i turn off at 4k that have a huge impact on performance and at the same time don't add enough graphical niceness in comparison? Or do you guys think 60 fps 4k itself is bottlenecking the system?
Also, I'm very new to overclocking, do you guys advise i overclock any of the components?
Any recommendations? I'm a bit out of the loop.
Also, I don't want to invest a lot of money in DDR3 right now so I'd rather not get close to 100.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
What country are you in?
OneEightZero
aka ThreeOneFour
GAF, is this a good deal for upgrading on my PC?
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P1_14-127-844-_-03182016&Index=1
I currently have an R7 200 series card.
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P1_14-127-844-_-03182016&Index=1
I currently have an R7 200 series card.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
That's hard to say without knowing what that card is. If it is a 280 or above then no.
What's the rest of your spec?
Italy.
Right now I'm looking at:
RAM DDR3 2133Mhz 16GB CL10D G.Skill KIT (2x8GB) 16GAB ARES (€70)
RAM DDR3 2133Mhz 16GB CL11 G.Skill KIT (2x8GB) 16GZL RipjawsZ (€85)
RAM DDR3 2133Mhz 16GB CL9 G.Skill KIT (2x8GB) 16GXH RipjawsX (€87)
RAM DDR3 2133Mhz 16GB CL9D G.Skill KIT (2x8GB) 16GTX TridentX (€89)
And I have no idea which one's worth the price or if there's anything better in the €50-80 price range.
Or if there's that much of a difference between 2133 and 1866Mhz to begin with.
OneEightZero
aka ThreeOneFour
R7 250X.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Those are ok. Personally, I will go with the ARES kit, mainly because they are cheapest and low profile so if you want to slap in a custom CPU cooler they won't get in the way.
The speed difference should be negligible.
electroflame
Member
Heh, that's a lot of space, but Reds should be just fine for what you want (probably better than you actually need). The added warranty on them is a bonus, though.
Good luck! If you still need help with the actual imaging, let me know.
And even the ARES kit would be better than a 1866MHz with better latency?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
From various benches I see, it should be faster than 1866 CL8. Though not by much.
This 960 only has 2GB vram, which is really getting not enough nowadays. What's your budget and the rest of the spec? Mainly the PSU, there might be some better choice.
I see, thanks.
So, just to be clear, adding those 1600 2x2gb to these would be detrimental, right?
And since I have another build with 1333 2x2gb, what about that? Add the 1600 or replace?
DeathByBacklog
Member
Yeah like I said. I over did it. But if it means not having to buy new drives for my NAS for a very, very long time...I'm ok with that. And I called Dell. Cheap bastards would give me no additional deal. I'm sure if it was for Seagates like they pimp in their systems, they'd be all over it. Ah well. Likely wouldn't have got much of a discount anyway.
I'll definitely contact you before I start. I imagine it'll be a week or so before those drives come in. I'll have to back up my NAS first before proceeding with backing up the Seagate. But as soon as I'm ready, I'll check in with you. Thanks for all your help so far.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
My suggestion is that add the new 16GBs 2133 RAM to that build and slap those 2 1600 to the build with the 1333 ram. They will just run at 1333 altogether. If that mobo allows, you can overclock it to run at 1600, with a little extra voltage.
Ok, thanks for the help.
What brand and model of parts do you already have? We should make sure all the parts are compatible with each other before giving recommendations, especially physical fit. Some mITX cases only take compact power supplies, and I have no idea what "full length" GPU you mean as some of them go up to 320mm in length.
If 120GB is all you need, sure. If you don't mind spending a bit more, there are some okay 240~256GB SSDs for a couple dollars more like the OCZ Trion 150 ($64) or Sandisk SSD Plus ($64). Both of them won't win any speed records, but they're just fine for average users and you get twice as much storage for a better cost.
Thanks to Flaxh for the reminder that the OCZ Trion isn't bad.
I have a 290 Tri-X OC which I think is around 310mm in length and a Power and Cooling Silencer Mk II 950W High Performance PSU; these are the only components I'm saving and looking to reuse, thanks!
EDIT: also had a look at some prices and miniITX seems way more pricy than microATX so I think that's a better fit?
Looks decent. However, if you feel like upgrading your PC sometime soon, perhaps consider getting an Intel processor and motherboard instead?
I think mATX will be easier to work with. I figure that 950 watt power supply must be kinda big as well. What sort of case are you looking for? There's normal tower style designs, but also cube style PCs and more compact HTPC looking cases. For now, here's a processor, motherboard, and RAM kit to consider.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($267.35 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($120.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($81.00 @ shopRBC)
Total: $468.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-18 15:03 EDT-0400
Just for posterity... uninstall kb2670838 and the problem will be solved.
For whatever reason this apparently causes Aero to break if you run a screen in portrait mode in Windows 7 and Microsoft has apparently not fixed it and obviously won't. Sometimes...
It's working now and all the tearing is gone from my portrait monitor.
A cube-style case would be preferable, thanks for the suggestions! Would you not recommend a 6600k then? I suppose it's $100+ more for little gain?
Not really. Just a Phanteks Enthoo case with a bunch of added LED lights and white cabling. Watch the build video I linked in the original post for all the details.
Its been about 3 years since this pc was built for me and I need some help figuring out how to upgrade to the best possible result while staying within budget.
Your Current Specs:
CPU : intel core i5 3470
RAM: 4x 4gb ddr3
Motherboard : ms 7752
GPU: geforce gtx 650 ti
PSU: cooler master extreme 2 625w
Case : zalman z11 plus
HDD : intel 60 gb ssd, 1tb hard drive
Budget: 1600 canadian ( I dont have to spend that much its just my limit)
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming (4) General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (3)
Monitor Resolution: I mostly just default to whatever the games and system itself recommend unless it makes me eyes feel weird.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: hd twitch streams, dota 2, Skyrim and similar open world games with moderate levels of graphical modding.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Id like to not have to replace absolutely everything but am unsure what will be good for another 2-3 years( will do a complete new build then) and what is most in need of being swapped out for a newer counterpart now to make sure I can keep my pc able to best suit my needs going forward.
When will you build?: End of march/ early april. Hoping to take advantage of easter deals should they pop up but will survive paying full price for things.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Since I don't know what I can keep/ what needs to be replaced I haven't picked out anything and just need general help. Sorry.
Your Current Specs:
CPU : intel core i5 3470
RAM: 4x 4gb ddr3
Motherboard : ms 7752
GPU: geforce gtx 650 ti
PSU: cooler master extreme 2 625w
Case : zalman z11 plus
HDD : intel 60 gb ssd, 1tb hard drive
Budget: 1600 canadian ( I dont have to spend that much its just my limit)
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming (4) General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (3)
Monitor Resolution: I mostly just default to whatever the games and system itself recommend unless it makes me eyes feel weird.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: hd twitch streams, dota 2, Skyrim and similar open world games with moderate levels of graphical modding.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Id like to not have to replace absolutely everything but am unsure what will be good for another 2-3 years( will do a complete new build then) and what is most in need of being swapped out for a newer counterpart now to make sure I can keep my pc able to best suit my needs going forward.
When will you build?: End of march/ early april. Hoping to take advantage of easter deals should they pop up but will survive paying full price for things.
Will you be overclocking?: No
Since I don't know what I can keep/ what needs to be replaced I haven't picked out anything and just need general help. Sorry.
Broadbandito
Member
no one?
DeathByBacklog
Member
Ah yes. But he still had to buy the components and put it together. Didn't just come off the shelf that way. I guess I should have clarified.
If it fit into your budget, I'd recommend it, especially if you were interested in overclocking. However, going with an i5 6600K would mean you would ideally also get an aftermarket CPU cooler (required as the 6600K doesn't come with a standard Intel cooler), a Z170 motherboard (for overclocking), and higher speed RAM (not necessary, but nice to have). All of that will drive up costs, and if you weren't interested in overclocking then there's not a huge difference moving up to the i5 6600K. Here's what the non overclocking parts look like:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($267.35 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($120.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($81.00 @ shopRBC)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($96.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $565.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-18 15:53 EDT-0400
And here's what an i5 6600K parts list looks like. It's already over budget by a bit and the parts choices sorta aren't optimal.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($325.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Vortex Plus 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.86 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($131.50 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($81.00 @ shopRBC)
Case: Corsair Air 240 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($96.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $665.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-18 16:18 EDT-0400
Hmm, what would I need to add to the 6600k build for it to be optimal? For $100 more it may be worth it for the over clocking. Thanks! Case is a stunner BTW :O
Unrelated question, but I need to wipe a HDD before selling it off, I want to use my laptop to wipe it but it's only got 1 drive bay, if I take the drive with the windows install out to do the wipe it won't mess with the windows install in any way would it? Like I can just put it back no problem after the other HDD wipe? Dumb question I know.
Anyone have some feedback?
Its literally a thin, long strip of thermal pad that go over 10 small chips which I assume are VRAM. The last chip was only going to be covered by like half of its surface...so now there is like a small line going down between thermal pads that cover said chip due to putting an extra piece where the piece ripped. Will that be fine?
The best use of your money would be a new graphics card. You may want to wait for the upcoming new GPUs if your current PC's performance doesn't bother you too much. Nvidia's Pascal and AMD's Polaris are slated to launch sometime this year (not sure when so likely not within the next 2 months). If you can't wait, you could consider looking at a graphics card like an R9 390 or GTX 970. If the new graphics cards seem very good, then you could try selling what graphics card you have and upgrade then.
The i5 6600K parts list is a bit "unoptimized" because I didn't really do a thorough check to see if there might be any better parts choices for build quality and pricing and whatnot. I'm a bit busy at the moment and need to go out soon.
You can use a program like Darik's Boot and Nuke to erase a hard drive. It doesn't need to be run from Windows, so as you say, you can swap the drive into your laptop, then run DBAN from a disc or USB drive to erase the hard drive.
Only Netflix? Nothing else causes this? Is it just the browser freezing or is Windows freezing?
Got a picture? If it's just a rubbery thermal pad, don't worry too much about it, it's not that big a deal as long as you can cover the spot that's exposed and fit the metal heatsink back on properly.
I put both side of the metal shroud on already
Anyways yes its a thin, grey looking piece of thermal pad. It covers a bunch of chips I guess to transfer the heat to the metal backplate/shroud. I did plate an extra piece where the corner ripped a little. I was just worried having that "tear" from the two frankensteined pieces wasnt gonna do anything bad.
If you look at this image: http://images.bit-tech.net/content_...-amd-radeon-r9-295x2/r9-295x2-9-1280x1024.jpg
This other one (with out thermal pads..see small chips): http://images.bit-tech.net/content_...-amd-radeon-r9-295x2/r9-295x2-8-1280x1024.jpg
You see the 2 grey strips in the middle? One the one on the right, the top corner ripped off (dont know how) and from what I could see only 50% of the last chip would be covered. So I put another piece where it was missing to cover the whole thing.
Maybe as long as its covered, I should be good. What could possibly go wrong if that last chip is not covered well? Overheating? Video issues? Down throttling of GPU? Or anything worse?
Are you using windows 10 and the Netflix app? If so then it doesn't work properly. I can't even get anything to play as I'm greeted with an error code.
Need some help troubleshooting a problem with my PC.
I was playing a game the other day, and the PC went to a grey screen with some lines and the audio was looping with a "bzzzt" sound. The only way I could do anything was a hard reset. I thought at first it was maybe some graphical settings, so I turned some things down and ended up with the same problem. I downloaded HWMonitor and noticed that my CPU was running about 50-60C under normal conditions, so I figured it was overheating. I bought and installed a Cooler Master 212 EVO (was using just the stock Intel cooler), and got it to boot again. Temperatures had dropped down into the 30-40C range under normal conditions. I loaded my game back up and it seemed to be running fine. Then I tried to alt-tab o check something and it locked up, and now the system won't turn on again.
My mobo is a BIOSTAR TZ77B (bought in 2012) and it's getting to the postcode 62 (or 29 if it's upside down), and that's all I've got. It won't even pop up the BIOS screen at all. I looked at the manual, and that postcode is not listed, so I'm not entirely sure what to do from here.
Any help would be appreciated.
EDIT: I took out the graphics card and just plugged into the onboard, and now I can boot just fine. To me, this means that it's either the graphics card or the PCIE slot itself. How would I go about testing that? I don't have another card to put in there.
I was playing a game the other day, and the PC went to a grey screen with some lines and the audio was looping with a "bzzzt" sound. The only way I could do anything was a hard reset. I thought at first it was maybe some graphical settings, so I turned some things down and ended up with the same problem. I downloaded HWMonitor and noticed that my CPU was running about 50-60C under normal conditions, so I figured it was overheating. I bought and installed a Cooler Master 212 EVO (was using just the stock Intel cooler), and got it to boot again. Temperatures had dropped down into the 30-40C range under normal conditions. I loaded my game back up and it seemed to be running fine. Then I tried to alt-tab o check something and it locked up, and now the system won't turn on again.
My mobo is a BIOSTAR TZ77B (bought in 2012) and it's getting to the postcode 62 (or 29 if it's upside down), and that's all I've got. It won't even pop up the BIOS screen at all. I looked at the manual, and that postcode is not listed, so I'm not entirely sure what to do from here.
Any help would be appreciated.
EDIT: I took out the graphics card and just plugged into the onboard, and now I can boot just fine. To me, this means that it's either the graphics card or the PCIE slot itself. How would I go about testing that? I don't have another card to put in there.
Kinda cross post from BST, but I'm selling a 6600k that was used for 2 months for, $220 shipped.
4k 60fps is super hard to do on a single card setup for 2016 AAA games. No problem wanting to game at 4k, but you would have a better experience at 1440p.
4k 60fps is super hard to do on a single card setup for 2016 AAA games. No problem wanting to game at 4k, but you would have a better experience at 1440p.
Reposting for new page.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Is there a website or a program that can tell me if I can upgrade parts in my PC/Laptop without replacing the motherboard?
Wanting to play PC games more often, but my laptop is pretty low end, and my computer is mid tier for gaming but runs them really slow for whatever reason (I probably suck at keeping them clean and healthy or whatever)
Basically, any advice for a newbie looking to get into PC gaming more? Doesn't have to be high end, console equivalent graphics would be fine.
If I was to build a PC my budget would be about 400-500, but wouldn't be doing it until a few months time.
Wanting to play PC games more often, but my laptop is pretty low end, and my computer is mid tier for gaming but runs them really slow for whatever reason (I probably suck at keeping them clean and healthy or whatever)
Basically, any advice for a newbie looking to get into PC gaming more? Doesn't have to be high end, console equivalent graphics would be fine.
If I was to build a PC my budget would be about 400-500, but wouldn't be doing it until a few months time.
roadrunn3r
Member
You could start by posting what the specs of your current PC are. As for low budget builds they are possible but it surely is better to spend those 500$ for an upgrade (if it makes sense based on what you already have) than for a whole new build which would be very low spec.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
No problem, thanks a lot for the help!
I'll be in NYC for a week starting tomorrow, and I'm thinking of picking up some parts for a new PC. I haven't kept up with new CPUs and stuff, though. The last time I built a PC was 5~6 years ago.
I'm going to pick up a GTX 970, but I'm also looking for a new motherboard, a new CPU and some memory sticks.
Considering that I'm going with the GTX 970, what would be some good parts to go with it? I mean - I'm aiming for a machine that can play most stuff, but I'm not really after top of the line stuff.
Thanks for the help, guys
I'm going to pick up a GTX 970, but I'm also looking for a new motherboard, a new CPU and some memory sticks.
Considering that I'm going with the GTX 970, what would be some good parts to go with it? I mean - I'm aiming for a machine that can play most stuff, but I'm not really after top of the line stuff.
Thanks for the help, guys
roadrunn3r
Member
5 years old tbh, so pretty outdated:
I appreciate the help, I'm a total PC noob.
You could reuse your DDR3 RAM, HDD and case so you can go Haswell and only need a CPU, motherboard, GPU and PSU.
Assuming 500$ budget total, something like a Core i5-4460 for around 175$, an H97 or B85 mobo for 65$ and that leaves around 250$ for the GPU and PSU which would be enough for a GTX 960 (or R9 380). Wait for someone like RGM79 to post you actual Partpicker links as I'm not too familiar with best prices and such. That would be quite an improvement from what you have actually and allow you to play at higher than console settings in any game.
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