Elitist1945
Member
I'm looking at 980ti cards and since I know fuck all I don't understand why there's so many different kinds, what the differences are, which is best, etc.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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lostsupper
Banned
If you're considering delidding (and you should be), here's a kickstarter for a delidding tool to make the process much easier:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/119374257/rockit-88-intel-cpu-delid-tool
Right now the only competitor is der8auer's Delid-Die-Mate, which is quite a bit more expensive.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/119374257/rockit-88-intel-cpu-delid-tool
Right now the only competitor is der8auer's Delid-Die-Mate, which is quite a bit more expensive.
Broadbandito
Member
Ok, I'm kinda lost in trying to figure out what is happening to my PC.
I recently changed cases and gpus. When I play games and use the pc it is fine. When I watch netflix the pc randomly decides to freeze after an episode, after 3 episodes, after 6 etc. etc. . This happens almost every night. Wtf is happening?
I have a msi 970 ME
I recently changed cases and gpus. When I play games and use the pc it is fine. When I watch netflix the pc randomly decides to freeze after an episode, after 3 episodes, after 6 etc. etc. . This happens almost every night. Wtf is happening?
I have a msi 970 ME
Thank you! Updated part list:
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/HRTzbv
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£199.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£27.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£125.55 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£34.71 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£34.71 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Sandisk Z400s 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£56.16 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: *Toshiba Product SeriesT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.52 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card (£269.98 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (£56.00 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£74.54 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) (£57.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £975.14
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-17 19:34 GMT+0000
Go for the M.2 SSD, faster and means 2 less cables to lay. Always handy in an ITX build.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£199.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£27.99 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£125.55 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory (£69.98 @ Novatech)
Storage: Crucial MX200 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£72.63 @ Ebuyer)
Storage: *Toshiba Product Series
T01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£37.52 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card (£269.98 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (£56.00 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£74.54 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) (£57.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £992.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-17 19:55 GMT+0000
Note that you will have to remove the PSU bracket to fit the PSU, i have the RM650x in my Node 304. To secure it, i zip tie the 24pin ATX cable to the PSU fan grill at the bottom of the case. That will allow the PSU to move back and allow the GPU to fit without fouling the PSU cabling.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Ok with the drive in the USB dock, I tried checking the drive for errors. It was running fine, then the drive just disconnected about a third of the way in. Those benchmark tests I posted earlier was with the drive in the dock. And the drive is in the dock, nothing shows up in the Health tab.
I'll plug the drive back into the motherboard and check the Health tab that way.
Sooo, I've decided to finally build another rig (current PC is almost 10 years old at this point). Can anyone offer any suggestions or thoughts on the build below?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($619.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Lian-Li PC-V359WX MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($189.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1629.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-17 15:59 EDT-0400
Current things I'm debating is the case and the gpu. I LOVE the Lian Li but a more affordable option that I'm looking at is the Corsair 240 -
Lian Li
Corsair 240
For the GPU I'm debating on 970 as a stop gap or just rolling with the 980ti seeing as how Pascal is on the horizon. Leaning towards 980ti and I can just use EVGA's step up program if I feel the need...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($244.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($61.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked+ ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($619.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Lian-Li PC-V359WX MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($189.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1629.91
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-17 15:59 EDT-0400
Current things I'm debating is the case and the gpu. I LOVE the Lian Li but a more affordable option that I'm looking at is the Corsair 240 -
Lian Li
Corsair 240
For the GPU I'm debating on 970 as a stop gap or just rolling with the 980ti seeing as how Pascal is on the horizon. Leaning towards 980ti and I can just use EVGA's step up program if I feel the need...
Mad Season
Banned
For those that tweak fan settings in the bios, you usually have the option for standard, turbo, performance, or silent. You then have an option for manual settings with a high and low threshold. For those of you who overclock, which setting do you use? And if you use the manual setting, what are your thresholds set at?
What's the step up program?
http://www.evga.com/support/stepup/
You've got 90 days from the date of your original GPU purchase to "step up" to a more expensive card if you'd like. You send in your current card, pay the difference for the newer card (plus shipping), and they ship you the new card.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Ah yes...now I remember why I got the docking station. HD Tune won't work properly when the drive is plugged into the computer. It just takes forever to load, then just freezes if I attempt to do anything with it, if I eventually do get it to load.
hmmmm, maybe I'll do this and upgrade to pascal if that May 27 release date ends up not being accurate.
Yea it's a pretty neat safety net - one of the reasons I've always bought EVGA cards though I've never actually taken advantage of the step up program. I believe other Nvidia card manufacturers have similar programs as well though, not sure.
Much appreciated. Think I prefer the case you suggested as well.
Can we have the drive model number? Im still suspecting a dying HDD, the poor performance from the USB dock would explain that too.
Note that you will have to remove the PSU bracket to fit the PSU, i have the RM650x in my Node 304. To secure it, i zip tie the 24pin ATX cable to the PSU fan grill at the bottom of the case. That will allow the PSU to move back and allow the GPU to fit without fouling the PSU cabling.
You should use Silent, or Manual with a low fan curves. I have my speeds fixed at 700rpm for 70c peak CPU temp while gaming.
Whilst testing the OC, fan curve disabled, 100% fan speed.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Really starting to think that now too. Which is good, as I've never replaced a motherboard and was seriously concerned with getting one off eBay (dell no longer carries them) only to f it all up and running things during the install.
The SATA drive in question is
Seagate Barracuda
2TB
Model #ST2000CM001
I just took a moment to power down the comp and swap that drive with a Western Digital Caviar SE 250GB Model #2500JD-75HBB0. The computer powered on no problem. Booted up quickly. HD Tune booted up no problem and I was able to check the health of that drive without anything freezing, or locking right up. Here's the results of that one...
So assuming it is the drive, what's my best course of action of getting these files backed up without making things any worse then they are. The biggest problem being it just dropping out without any sign it's about to do so.
Really starting to think that now too. Which is good, as I've never replaced a motherboard and was seriously concerned with getting one off eBay (dell no longer carries them) only to f it all up and running things during the install.
The SATA drive in question is
Seagate Barracuda
2TB
Model #ST2000CM001
I just took a moment to power down the comp and swap that drive with a Western Digital Caviar SE 250GB Model #2500JD-75HBB0. The computer powered on no problem. Booted up quickly. HD Tune booted up no problem and I was able to check the health of that drive without anything freezing, or locking right up. Here's the results of that one...
So assuming it is the drive, what's my best course of action of getting these files backed up without making things any worse then they are. The biggest problem being it just dropping out without any sign it's about to do so.
See, this drive looks healthy, C4 and C5 are the important ones. If the board was dead, then it would struggle to boot with any HDD/SSD plugged in.
The best way to do this in my experience is use an OS that cant write to NTFS, only can read -> Like OSX, this is how i recovered a flakey 1TB WD Black. Some linux Distro may also be of help.
Otherwise you got no option but to keep trying to copy files off using Windows.
J
JoJo UK
Unconfirmed Member
First off I want to say thanks to the guys who have helped me so far, I still haven't purchased a new monitor but I've have decided against a 27".
What I need to decide is go for 144Hz @ 1080p or 60Hz @ 1440p.
I mainly play fps so I know how great 144 would be however I doubt I will be able to get to 144 without sacrificing too much quality. My question is ultimately what do you guys think is more realistic, maintaining 60fps @ 1440p or 90/120/144fps @ 1080p?
Thanks guys!
EDIT: Sorry setup below:
970
i5 4670 @ 3.4
8GB
What I need to decide is go for 144Hz @ 1080p or 60Hz @ 1440p.
I mainly play fps so I know how great 144 would be however I doubt I will be able to get to 144 without sacrificing too much quality. My question is ultimately what do you guys think is more realistic, maintaining 60fps @ 1440p or 90/120/144fps @ 1080p?
Thanks guys!
EDIT: Sorry setup below:
970
i5 4670 @ 3.4
8GB
DeathByBacklog
Member
Hurray! It's not the mobo!!!
1) what is OSX
2) where can I find it and what does it cost
3) how do I set it up? I'd have to be installed on a different comp or drive right? With no other operating system on it?
Whats your GPU? Which FPS do you usually play? So I can find some benchmarks to find out whats better.
J
JoJo UK
Unconfirmed Member
Sorry mate, amended previous post with specs, usually play the likes of Battlefield/Battlefront/Division, also intending to play QB when released, playing Primal and Syndicate atm.
Your rig is similar to mine. Looking at benchmarks on guru3d it looks like the GTX970 is capable of 52FPS on SW:B and 40FPS on Division in a WQHD resolution, so you'd probably play at 60FPS if you drop some settings from Ultra to High or Medium. Getting 1080p 120+hz would require you to lower graphics settings a lot.
It looks like it's a matter of how much you value getting that high refresh rate.
No way. its very clean and minimalist, as is the case with most corsair cases (pun intended?). I thought about getting that case but it doesn't have sound deadening materials so it was a deal breaker. Went with the Fractal Define R5 blackout edition instead.
Edit: The pictures don't do that case any justice. See it in person and you'll see its got plenty of room and was designed for people who want tons of room for cooling.
The 370 is inexpensive so its a good stop gap measure.
Contemplated that case in black as I like so much about it except the vertical drives. I still use an optical blu ray drive and not a fan of them being vertical.
Elitist1945
Member
How large are the differences between a 980 and a TI? Because the 980 is much cheaper.
J
JoJo UK
Unconfirmed Member
Thanks man, I love the idea of pushing past 60fps but I ll not be getting a new gfx for a good long while.
Song of the Turtle
Member
Quick question: are Blu-ray drives region locked? I want to import some Blu-rays from the US but I'd rather buy a new drive for my PC than getting another player (I'm in Germany).
Gen.Grievous
Member
980 Ti actually runs on a different chip and is much better than the 980. Of the two the 980 is actually less interesting in terms of performance per dollar.
Elitist1945
Member
Interesting. Also does anyone know if theres a way to see Canadian prices on Nvidia's website? Because there's no way a 980ti is $649 here haha.
OSX as in Mac OS X. Not simple to just install to a PC but easy if you have access to a Mac.
You could try look into Ubuntu and mount the HDD in read only mode maybe.
Have you disabled the according things in control panel/device manager/network adapters/[Actual devices]/power management? If you turn off the check mark at "Allow this device to wake the computer" it should work and does for me.
But I also disabled all USB-controllers, Human Interface Devices and mice/pointing devices from being allowed to wake the computer. And perhaps if yours are so equipped do the same for bluetooth etc.?
Gen.Grievous
Member
If you don't mind waiting for a few months you might be able to get Ti level of performance for 980 prices.
980ti generally generally sells at 875 - 1000CAD depending on the manufacturer.
Elitist1945
Member
According to Google that 649 would cost me 843 CAD which is cheaper than what I've found on online Canadian stores. Plus it comes with The Division. Might bite on that.
JakkuFurosu
Member
Thank you for the help Flaxh.
I am still short a gfx card and OS, so say 100$ for OS that brings me to around my total budget @ $786 but im short a gfx card.
I only nag you guys cause you all know better then me whats good to cut and whats not.
Well, it's Thursday and I finally got the monitor. Gsync and pivot/landscape combined woorks fine, different refresh rates and resolutions are no problem either. The 21,5" size is just a fantastic fit for the 27" primary display in terms of verticality.
Unfortunately there seems to be a bug in Windows 7 concerning multi-monitor-setups where a monitor is connected via DP, so I can't use aero anymore but whatever. Will update to Win10 at some point anyway.
Horrible quality phone pic just for the sake of it:
One question however: What's the best way to make the output look the same on both monitors in terms of color vibrance etc? I played around with the OSD of the Lenovo a bit (which shockingly is much better than that of the once-800$ Acer lol) and it looks fine but I can still see the differences. I assume a hardware solution would be best but it's probably expensive...
You would get charged duty at the border, and shipping will be expensive as well. You probably won't end up saving anything.
Elitist1945
Member
God damnit.
electroflame
Member
Yeah, so it looks like you've just got to try and get the files off. Unfortunately, there's few things more nerve-wracking than trying to get files off a flaky/dying drive.
It seems like it's a small drive, so you're in luck there. If it's really bad you can try to use CloneZilla to clone what it can to another drive. From there it'll be easier as you can safely copy whatever can be salvaged.
Personally, I use Macrium Reflect for this kind of stuff. It should be able to handle cloning the failing/flaky drive (and if you burn the WinPE disk and use that, it has a pretty user-friendly interface). It's easier to use than CloneZilla (which can be pretty scary, especially when selecting the hard drives), but CloneZilla may be more reliable, depending on how mangled the sectors are.
Alternatively, you could always mount the drive with a USB dock and try and pull the files off the old fashioned way. That might be dangerous, though, as I've had a dying drive become unreadable doing it that way (the drive was still cloneable with CloneZilla, though, thankfully).
What seems to be the problem? I've got pretty much the same setup as you (vertical monitor on the other side, though) and Aero works fine. One monitor (the vertical one) is DisplayPort, as well.
Celcius
°Temp. member
There are reference cards and non-reference cards.
Reference cards use the stock blower-style cooler with the green Gefore GTX on the side of the card. They exhaust heat out of the rear of the computer.
Non-reference type cards use 2 or 3 fans and blow air back into the case. There are also different manufacturers and each one will have their own unique design.
Non-reference cards tend to run cooler and quieter, whereas with a reference card you don't have to worry about it blowing the heat back into your case and affecting other component temps. Also, reference cards are available as soon as the gpu launches but non-reference cards can take a while to become available, based on the manufacturer and the particular card. Reference cards are usually a good choice if you plan on going SLI, as all of the heat from both cards would be exhausted out the back of the case.
There are also stock versus pre-overclocked cards. You can easily overclock a stock card to match or surpass a pre-overclocked card, but some people don't want to overclock and would rather have the company do it for them (and pay a few dollars extra).
These are the basics of the differences between models.
Elitist1945
Member
I'm pretty set on a 980ti to be honest, as I wanted to build my PC this month. Are these prices as good as I'm gonna find at the moment? If so I'll bite on that NCIX deal.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Ok. Thanks for clarifying that.
Not so small unfortunately. The drive in question is 2TB with all but about 250 gigs not used up. I've been adding files to it for over three years now. Having it in the USB dock seems like the best scenario as it messes up everything else when it's installed to the motherboard.
So should I copy files over, or transfer? Does it make a difference? Any way to make the whole drive just readable through Windows 7. That way I won't risk overwriting anything (assuming it can still be copied in "read only" mode).
electroflame
Member
Ah, I thought it was a small drive. In that case, larger drives complicate things (since copying the whole drive takes significantly longer). Given that the drive's dying already, I'm not aware of any huge differences between moving and copying the files. Were it me, I'd be copying the files (not moving them), in case the copy/move operation gets interrupted by the drive flaking out.
If it's in the USB dock, it should already be readable. Given that you have finite shots at getting all your files off, I'd try to use Macrium Reflect to image the hard drive via the USB dock (USB 3 would help quite a bit here). If you can boot into Windows, you can do the image in Windows, if it's easier. Basically you're just making an image of the dying drive and saving it to some other hard drive (that will have enough room, obviously!). If you can get the hard drive imaged, you can mount that image as a virtual hard drive, and extract the files out of that (bypassing the dying drive). It'd be safer than running multiple copy operations on a dying drive, in my opinion.
However, before doing that, if you have "system critical" files that you absolutely can not lose get those off the hard drive first. Doing the image should be fairly safe, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
Are you building it for VR? Id wait for Pascal if so
Elitist1945
Member
No, I didn't plan on getting VR for my PC. I've read the 980ti is good for 1440p/4K gaming and thats what I'd be wanting to take advantage of.
Huh, interesting. Well, Aero isn't available in the settings anymore. I rebooted the whole PC, restarted display services as proposed to other people having issues with Aero and tried default themes. Not sure what's wrong, everything was fine before I connected the second display. Maybe it's related to the display orientation mode, I'll try some more stuff tomorrow.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Check! Copy, don't move.
If it's in the USB dock, it should already be readable. Given that you have finite shots at getting all your files off, I'd try to use Macrium Reflect to image the hard drive via the USB dock (USB 3 would help quite a bit here).[/quote]
Is Macrium Reflect free and fully functional?
Ok you lost me here. I can boot to windows no problem. The OS is on the SSD. This drive is the secondary storage drive that came with the comp (where I put pretty much everything else). What do you mean by making an image (yep...kind of a noob) if not just selecting all the files and copying over to the new drive? Clearly you don't mean that if you're talking about mounting the image.
Yeah no system critical files. But definitely some things I want to be able to keep. So I'll look for those first.
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