Bloodember
Member
You do know the g502 has adjustable weights right? Without the weights its really light. I use it as well, great mouse.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I have none of the weights in the mouse and still think it's heavy compared to other mice in the same class.
PeskyToaster
Member
Hmm, apparently I should wait for the new GPUs coming soon to buy one. Seems like a good idea to get a budget one now and then go for broke on the new ones since it seems the performance increases will be unusually good. My biggest question right now is what should I be looking for in a motherboard? I pretty much set on going with the i7 6700k cpu. I see a couple sites recommending the Asus Maximus VIII Hero. Don't know if it's overkill though.
Alright, so, my RAM DDR3 2133Mhz 16GB CL10DG.Skill KIT (2x8GB) 16GAB ARES arrived today and after installing it I noticed it ran at 1333 MHz. So I read up online and turned on XMB from the BIOS to set it at 2133, but the system doesn't boot and keeps loading the previous settings saying it has "experienced boot failures because of overclocking or changes of voltages". It can go up until 1600, though.
I have a Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3 and an i5 2500k. What's the issue? Is it the voltage? What can I do?
I have a Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3-B3 and an i5 2500k. What's the issue? Is it the voltage? What can I do?
CrashPrime
Member
Alienware Alpha/Steam Machines are really a bigtime value, holy cow.
I have been toying with a build of my own for a little while, and now I am seeing open box Alienwares for $380. That price is hard, and I do mean HARD to replicate.
1) 19v DC external PSU (accomplished with AM1H-ITX).
2) Wireless AC + BT (mini PCIe card fits the bill but for ~20$ extra).
3) 4130T CPU (in my opinion the hardest thing to get performance on-par with).
4) Very low TDP (done).
5) CPU/RAM/Storage upgrade path. (Add in the GPU upgrade path for the hobby build, but why at 4x and paired with a 5350?)
6) Ultra Small form-factor. (SilverStone RVZ02 is pretty slick for this form but still huge compared to the Dell err.. Alienware)
7) Controller bundled! (~$50 add-on).
The build I am (was?) attempting was a AM1 setup that also supports a DC adapter like the little Alienware.
AM1 5350, 750 Ti, ASRock AM1H-ITX mobo (4x PCIe, DC support), 120w Toshiba DC adapter, DDR3 1600mhz, 2.5" drive.
Best case for this setup seemed to be the SilverStone RVZ02 as it is a mini-itx that houses the SFX psu internally so there isn't a big hole where it should be if opting to use DC.
Pros
1) The fun of the build.
2) More robust BIOS features.
3) Room for 2x 2.5 and 1x 3.5 drives. If the case has to be bigger, at least it can be put to good use.
4) Could run with APU reducing the build to HTPC only duty at only 25w TDP(!!!!). Hint: I think this is where I am headed. (Dell 3050 and Acer Revo Build cover this type of service, albeit with almost zero upgrades possible)
Cons
1) AM1 upgrade path stops firmly at the 5350 right now. It is the top AM1 and I doubt we will see the socket used anymore. The 1150 motherboard doesn't offer overclocking but will support a variety of more powerful CPUs should they come down in price.
2) The PCIe port is 16x but electrically only 4x.
3) 5350 is not on the same level of performance of a 4130T. The 4130T is only 10w TDP more (5350 25w, 4130T 35w).
So I think after playing around, it might be time to send the 750 Ti back, and call it good with just using the APU and removing the thought of 3D gaming.
Costs:
Alienware Alpha i3 4130T open-box:
$380
Alienware Steam Machine i3 4130T:
$430
Hobby low-power HTPC
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock AM1H-ITX Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard ($48.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston Savage 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($30.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($37.50 @ Other World Computing)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Mini-PCI-Express Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $356.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
+Power Supply: ($11.38 @ Amazon)
+360 Wireless Controller + Adapter for Windows ($50)
-or-
+Steam Controller ($50)
$417.81
I have been toying with a build of my own for a little while, and now I am seeing open box Alienwares for $380. That price is hard, and I do mean HARD to replicate.
1) 19v DC external PSU (accomplished with AM1H-ITX).
2) Wireless AC + BT (mini PCIe card fits the bill but for ~20$ extra).
3) 4130T CPU (in my opinion the hardest thing to get performance on-par with).
4) Very low TDP (done).
5) CPU/RAM/Storage upgrade path. (Add in the GPU upgrade path for the hobby build, but why at 4x and paired with a 5350?)
6) Ultra Small form-factor. (SilverStone RVZ02 is pretty slick for this form but still huge compared to the Dell err.. Alienware)
7) Controller bundled! (~$50 add-on).
The build I am (was?) attempting was a AM1 setup that also supports a DC adapter like the little Alienware.
AM1 5350, 750 Ti, ASRock AM1H-ITX mobo (4x PCIe, DC support), 120w Toshiba DC adapter, DDR3 1600mhz, 2.5" drive.
Best case for this setup seemed to be the SilverStone RVZ02 as it is a mini-itx that houses the SFX psu internally so there isn't a big hole where it should be if opting to use DC.
Pros
1) The fun of the build.
2) More robust BIOS features.
3) Room for 2x 2.5 and 1x 3.5 drives. If the case has to be bigger, at least it can be put to good use.
4) Could run with APU reducing the build to HTPC only duty at only 25w TDP(!!!!). Hint: I think this is where I am headed. (Dell 3050 and Acer Revo Build cover this type of service, albeit with almost zero upgrades possible)
Cons
1) AM1 upgrade path stops firmly at the 5350 right now. It is the top AM1 and I doubt we will see the socket used anymore. The 1150 motherboard doesn't offer overclocking but will support a variety of more powerful CPUs should they come down in price.
2) The PCIe port is 16x but electrically only 4x.
3) 5350 is not on the same level of performance of a 4130T. The 4130T is only 10w TDP more (5350 25w, 4130T 35w).
So I think after playing around, it might be time to send the 750 Ti back, and call it good with just using the APU and removing the thought of 3D gaming.
Costs:
Alienware Alpha i3 4130T open-box:
$380
Alienware Steam Machine i3 4130T:
$430
Hobby low-power HTPC
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock AM1H-ITX Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard ($48.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: Kingston Savage 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($30.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Toshiba 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($37.50 @ Other World Computing)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Mini-PCI-Express Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $356.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
+Power Supply: ($11.38 @ Amazon)
+360 Wireless Controller + Adapter for Windows ($50)
-or-
+Steam Controller ($50)
$417.81
So I'm planning on building a new PC but I've heard I should wait till the end of the year for new GPUs to come out (bring a price drop to some other ones I'm assuming). However, I feel that I should upgrade a little bit now because my rig is pretty old (December 2011)
Current build:
GTX 560 Ti
i5 2500K @ 3.4 GHz (not OCing much because my temps are at 90+C right now so I have to fix this)
Asus P8P67 Pro
4 GB GSkill Ripjaws DDR3
Corsair 650W PSU
750 GB HDD
I also have a stock keyboard and a Logitech wireless mouse (non-gaming) from my old computer so I plan to upgrade those. Upgrading the RAM to 8 GB would be $20 but is there anything else I should do, keeping in mind that I plan a full rebuild later?
Current build:
GTX 560 Ti
i5 2500K @ 3.4 GHz (not OCing much because my temps are at 90+C right now so I have to fix this)
Asus P8P67 Pro
4 GB GSkill Ripjaws DDR3
Corsair 650W PSU
750 GB HDD
I also have a stock keyboard and a Logitech wireless mouse (non-gaming) from my old computer so I plan to upgrade those. Upgrading the RAM to 8 GB would be $20 but is there anything else I should do, keeping in mind that I plan a full rebuild later?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
A SSD, you can always bring it to the new build later.
IMO, if you fix the temp and then OC that CPU to 4.5 or sth, there is not much sense to upgrade anything else but the GPU.
hooijdonk17
Member
No one? :-(
cereal_killerxx
Junior Member
Is a 3570K still a capable gaming CPU?
PeskyToaster
Member
Here's what I have made so far.
I picked out a stop-gap GPU so I can get some stuff done while waiting for the newer stuff. I might get just a normal 1080p 60Hz monitor as well, especially while I have the older GPU in. I'm also not sure on the M.2 setup. The motherboard allows for it but if I could get a cheaper motherboard and skip over that I wouldn't mind. I'm coming from HDD land the usual SSD would be a huge upgrade. Any suggestions, tips, or glaring errors? Places I could cut costs?
I picked out a stop-gap GPU so I can get some stuff done while waiting for the newer stuff. I might get just a normal 1080p 60Hz monitor as well, especially while I have the older GPU in. I'm also not sure on the M.2 setup. The motherboard allows for it but if I could get a cheaper motherboard and skip over that I wouldn't mind. I'm coming from HDD land the usual SSD would be a huge upgrade. Any suggestions, tips, or glaring errors? Places I could cut costs?
CrashPrime
Member
Yes. Very much so. There is a reason people still rock 2500k. They can still get the gaming job done on 1080p games and beyond.
cereal_killerxx
Junior Member
Cool! I guess, I just need to upgrade my GPU then and I'll be set.
$400 for G-Sync isn't bad. I would skip the 850 M.2, and just get a SATA3 one. M.2 is not really worth unless you get the 950 Pro, and even then.. Only if you have a use case or like to spend money.
Same thing with the 32GB, if you have a use case go for it, otherwise it won't help you with gaming.
potatohead
Member
I have the same cooler for last 2 years, absolutely brilliant, even on load I can barely hear it and it doesn't really get any louder than on idle.
Whenever we've ever had to diagnose anything like this at work it is almost always (>95%) the fault of the case. The ports are usually badly shielded or wired, and in some cases we've even opened new cases only to find the ports have rust on them.
In all the other cases it has either been the USB device itself, which you can test by plugging those devices into your motherboard USB sockets and seeing if it happens then, or the actual board itself, but whenever that has happened you get no connectivity at all rather than it just being intermittent.
You could change that cooler for something like a H60 to save a little - we generally don't use Artic as they tend to break easily in transit, although that won't be an issue for you I guess. Could even use a 212 EVO for more savings. Maybe swap the board out for the Gigabyte Z170-HD3? There's little point in changing the EVO drive as the 2.5" one is only $3 cheaper - may as well keep that and have a spare SATA port for more drives later. I assume you have a need for 32GB RAM.
Not much else you can do. I'd change the case myself but I realise that's down to personal preference.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Roadrunner kindly recommended me some parts for an upgrade to my PC.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£149.99 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£73.32 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card (£167.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£51.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £443.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-19 02:02 GMT+0000
With this rig, when would I need to upgrade again to be able to play newer releases at high settings? 30fps minimum?
Anything I should maybe replace there with something better? Maybe the video card or CPU?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£149.99 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£73.32 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Superclocked Video Card (£167.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£51.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £443.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-19 02:02 GMT+0000
With this rig, when would I need to upgrade again to be able to play newer releases at high settings? 30fps minimum?
Anything I should maybe replace there with something better? Maybe the video card or CPU?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
What you are asking is a very hard question to answer.
Instead, I suggest you should take into consideration your budget and your current requirements and do your purchases accordingly. The people in this thread will try to max out the performance based on your budget for you.
Now, what is your budget and what is your requirement for your system?
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Budget, I'd say I could push £700-£900.
My requirements really is just being able to play the latest games at decent levels, so high settings 30fps like a console, and it being future proof, so it could play "PS4k" esque games for a few years to come before needing to upgrade anything.
Thanks/.
CMojicaAce
Member
Question: I'm looking to upgrade my ram to 16gb in the near future. I currently have 2 sticks of 4 gb each. Would I be better off buying two sticks of 8gb each or should I just buy 2 more 4gb sticks of the same type I already have? Or does it not really matter?
Corsair fans have gotten too loud(bearings went bad) I swap them out for these COUGAR CF-V12HP
These fans are super quiet and still outperform the H80i fans.
Mad Season
Banned
my son has the following computer setup:
i5 2500
SSD
8 GB RAM DD3
2GB Radeon Video card
For gaming purposes, I imagine the video card is the only thing I need to upgrade and what is the current bottleneck for gaming. What inexpensive video card would be a good upgrade? Not thinking anything crazy like a 980
i5 2500
SSD
8 GB RAM DD3
2GB Radeon Video card
For gaming purposes, I imagine the video card is the only thing I need to upgrade and what is the current bottleneck for gaming. What inexpensive video card would be a good upgrade? Not thinking anything crazy like a 980
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
What does your budget include? Do you need monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc? Do you have any leftover parts that can be reused?
Also, are you open for waiting a bit more? Newer cards are soon to be introduced and they may affect current pricing.
What is the exact model of that video card? And what's your budget?
CrashPrime
Member
Budget?
In my opinion value for dollar on that 2500 would be R9 390 or 970 for around $300
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Keeping monitor, keyboard and mouse from current rig, same with my DDR3 ram
I could wait
I've been told that the frequency doesn't really matter and that the CPU will bottleneck a newer GPU because it's so old.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Then I suggest you come back to this thread when the new cards arrive and we'll work something out then. We often recommend buying parts and building as soon as possible as prices can change rather fast.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
So the GTX 970 could drop below £200? As I don't mind paying that. Could get the motherboard, CPU and cooler later
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
I should be able to reuse my network cards etc?
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/VJRs6h
How long would this last me, playing games at console esque settings if I were to get it now? Would reuse my DDR3 ram, monitor etc
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/VJRs6h
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/VJRs6h/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£149.99 @ Novatech)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£59.95 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£73.32 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£268.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£51.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £604.23
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-31 18:28 BST+0100
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/VJRs6h
How long would this last me, playing games at console esque settings if I were to get it now? Would reuse my DDR3 ram, monitor etc
PCPartPicker part list: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/VJRs6h
Price breakdown by merchant: http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/VJRs6h/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (£149.99 @ Novatech)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£59.95 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£73.32 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card (£268.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£51.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £604.23
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-31 18:28 BST+0100
lordfuzzybutt
Member
That setup should outlast this console generation at higher settings and higher res, even the PS4K (if it and its rumored specs are real).
I would lose that cooler and just go with a cheap 212.
Also for a similar price point and performance, how about an AMD 390? It packs 8GBs VRAM as compared to 3.5 GBs of fast VRAM on the 970, so it should last longer than a 970. Also, consoles use AMD technology so going AMD is not a bad choice at all. The trend lately also shows that AMD is gaining ground on NVIDIA so it's all the more worth considering. I say this as a NVIDIA 980ti owner myself.
And yes, you should be able to use your network card.
Many people ITT, myself included, will tell you otherwise.
It's old, yes, but that CPU is a beast, hence the title of this thread.
Frequency matters a lot in CPU bound games.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Will look for an AMD 390 as well as a cheap 212 cooler.
Appreciate all the help
Pleased to hear it'll outlast the console generation too.Any specific cooler you'd recommend? Again, thanks a lot for your help.
So how's this setup, I may get the GPU when Pascal comes out so I can save some money
i5 2500K @ 4.5 GHz
MSi GTX 980 Ti
8 GB DDR3 RAM
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Corsair TX650
750 GB HDD
250 GB SSD
I may drop the stock cooler and add a Corsair H100i Liquid Cooler assuming it's compatible with my CM HAF 912 Mid-tower
i5 2500K @ 4.5 GHz
MSi GTX 980 Ti
8 GB DDR3 RAM
ASUS P8P67 Pro
Corsair TX650
750 GB HDD
250 GB SSD
I may drop the stock cooler and add a Corsair H100i Liquid Cooler assuming it's compatible with my CM HAF 912 Mid-tower
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Yeah the evo 212 is very good and cheap.Will look for an AMD 390 as well as a cheap 212 cooler.
Appreciate all the help
Any specific cooler you'd recommend? Again, thanks a lot for your help.
As long as you keep your expectations in check and not max out all the settings in games you will not be disappointed. For similar console settings you will be very fine.
No need to thank me at all. It's the purpose of this thread.
It's looking mighty fine.
Yes, absolutely drop the stock cooler, it can't handle that OC. Even a cheap evo 212 is fine. If you have the money then the H100i is very good. It should fit, the HAF 912 is huge, IIRC.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
electroflame
Member
I finally got everything set up and overclocked my new 5820k today. It's currently running at 4.0, which is a bit conservative, but is fine for what I need it for right now.
I believe the temps are fine, but I wanted to check. Currently it idles around 35C (but can go up to 40C if the room is warm), under load on Prime95 it hits around 60C, and under full load for an hour and a half on Aida64 it tops out at around 70C (with an average of around 65C).
Does that sound about right for an air-cooled processor? Obviously it varies based off of ambient room temperature, but the room temp floats around 22C to 24C so it's not overly warm in here (until summer, that is...).
I believe the temps are fine, but I wanted to check. Currently it idles around 35C (but can go up to 40C if the room is warm), under load on Prime95 it hits around 60C, and under full load for an hour and a half on Aida64 it tops out at around 70C (with an average of around 65C).
Does that sound about right for an air-cooled processor? Obviously it varies based off of ambient room temperature, but the room temp floats around 22C to 24C so it's not overly warm in here (until summer, that is...).
Felix Lighter
Member
Thank goodness this worked. I can tolerate my PC again. The front fans now run at a very quiet 760 RPM when idle and are controlled by Speedfan based on GPU temp just the way I wanted.
I have been using the Performance MX (now an MX Master) on a glass surface for years with none of your issues. Did you install the Logitech software and adjust the sensitivities? I sort of recall the default setting being a bit choppy until I turned up a slider or two.
Edit: Oh I missed the part about using on Wood...yea no idea how well it functions on that surface. I sort of recall the marketing stating it works well on glass(reason I jumped aboard), but not literally ANY surface. Think you may need a mousepad after all if the issues persist.
PeskyToaster
Member
Thanks guys. I'm gonna update my list with your suggestions and then get to some buying. Should be a fun little adventure.
Edit: I took some suggestions and settled on this . I switched to a different case, took out the M.2 SSD, and went with the other motherboard. The previous one had too many bells and whistles that I didn't need.
Looks better to me.
DeathByBacklog
Member
Am I screwed? Please advise.
So as I continue to try to fix the issues with my failed SATA drive... I get the new hard drives to plunk into my D-Link DNS 325 ShareCenter. And instead of swapping one drive out, allowing the one of the old drives to back up to it, I get this ingenious idea to pull both drives and just do a fresh install of the DNS 325 and new hard drives. That's not the problem though.
I now go to dock the old drives that I pulled out of the DNS 325, and it tells me that there's no file structure, and I have to format the drives in order to read them.
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!
Serious issue. These are my MAIN backups. Everything is on there. Photos, home videos, EVERYTHING. And the D-Link rep I am speaking to hasn't got a clue what I'm saying, or how to help.
So as I continue to try to fix the issues with my failed SATA drive... I get the new hard drives to plunk into my D-Link DNS 325 ShareCenter. And instead of swapping one drive out, allowing the one of the old drives to back up to it, I get this ingenious idea to pull both drives and just do a fresh install of the DNS 325 and new hard drives. That's not the problem though.
I now go to dock the old drives that I pulled out of the DNS 325, and it tells me that there's no file structure, and I have to format the drives in order to read them.
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!
Serious issue. These are my MAIN backups. Everything is on there. Photos, home videos, EVERYTHING. And the D-Link rep I am speaking to hasn't got a clue what I'm saying, or how to help.
Avoid the H100i. I had to get my H100i replaced twice. The clicking noise the pumps develop over time, the fact that I had to clean the radiator more constantly than any other cpu heater I have ever had, the higher temps, and the fact that it was noisier than the Noctua D15 all make the D15 a better option.
My H100i was push pull with upgraded fans too, so the stock fans were noisier with higher temps. So even with that unfair comparison, it still was worse at performance. I never looked back. It's only a temp diff of 3 degrees, but that's with the added silence, and the lack of fear regarding the 'clicking' turning into a faulty pump.
PeskyToaster
Member
Everything has been ordered. I downgraded on the monitor. I think when I get a new GPU I will also get a new monitor. Now the waiting game begins.
so i get an error message every now and then saying that my display driver has stopped responding and recovered. most of the time it's when i'm playing a game, doesn't matter which game, but when it does the game crashes or turns black and stops responding. doesn't matter if my driver is up to date or not, happens all the same. anyone have an inkling of an idea what's causing this?
specs:
biostar hi-fi z87x 3d
i5-4670k at stocktemps speeds (im dum)
msi gtx 970 oc'd a bit
550w seasonic psu
running dual monitors if that matters at all
could it be that the psu isn't strong enough?
specs:
biostar hi-fi z87x 3d
i5-4670k at stock
msi gtx 970 oc'd a bit
550w seasonic psu
running dual monitors if that matters at all
could it be that the psu isn't strong enough?
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
I had this happen to me before, like it was happening every day on my old laptop. It was probably just old.
Google how to make the wait time longer before it crashes. It is something like 2ms or something at default. You can change it in the registry to like 8 ms. You will still get the black screen but it won't completely lockup your system. It will just go black for like 2 seconds until the driver reboots.
it doesn't really lock up my system, it just freezes and both screens go black for maybe half a second before coming back up with the game locked up. everything else is fine afterwards.
- Status