opticalmace
Member
What's your budget? Also I don't think the 3450k exists. Could it be a 3570k? Or regular 3450?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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What's your budget? Also I don't think the 3450k exists. Could it be a 3570k? Or regular 3450?
I'll probably just move the whole thing at once if I can. I just put the heatsink on about 2 weeks ago, so I'm sure the thermal paste is still good. If it starts to look too cumbersome or wobbly, then I'll take it off and reseat it in the new case.
Could do could do. Ooh if I did that I could use my current processor for my itx build.
Yeah it's the 3570k. looking to spend around 500 no more than 600 though.
CrashPrime
Member
Build a stream box utilizing AVerMedia C985 and maintain a 390/970 setup for gaming.
If you are doing casual streaming (not partnered), don't worry about it, as you are probably only sending out 2000 kbps at 720p 30fps or so.
CrashPrime
Member
If you are taking a minimal loss on the 760, consider it a fee you paid to rent the hardware.
MSRP was $250, they still go for like $100. Depending on how long you had the 760 I'd say it's fine.
Everyone is a little too quick to ward people away from cards while waiting for Pascal. When it actually does get mainstream channel release (June?), the rumblings of the next card will start not-soon-after and the waiting game starts all over.
Looks like used 970s sell for anywhere between $250 and $300 depending on the exact model. My 760 sells for $100-$120. I figure a 970 would cost me about $165 all said and done.
If can turn around in a few months and sell the 970 for ~$225, and if the 1070s are ~$400, I'm only out ~$340 for a new 1070 in the future. Weird way of looking at things though.
Still on the fence about it.
Everyone's talking about Pascal, but I'm hearing very little about AMD's Polaris cards. Is that due to the higher marketshare for nvidia cards? Or is there something actively wrong with the Polaris stuff? From what I've looked at, the Polaris cards seem like they'll do pretty well, performance-wise.
Nobody knows. AMD and Nvidia have both said they're releasing new cards this year, but we don't know when or how powerful their 2016 cards will be. I'm erring on the pessimistic side, and personally I don't think we'll see anything noticeably more powerful than 980Ti/Fury X until the end of the year at the earliest, but you never know.
Yep, the DRM associated with 4K streaming and 4K Blu-Rays makes it inherently difficult to use them on PCs. There's also just a lack of demand. Virtually all 4K TVs have streaming services like Netflix built-in, and very few PCs even have optical drives any more.
Kudo
Member
Don't think there's anything wrong with Polaris, it's just that Nvidia is more popular.
Speaking for myself I tend to stay with one brand when it comes to GPUs as they both have their own problems in drivers and it's easier to just remember the problems of one side, that being Nvidia for me now.
PC-GAF, I have a question...
Background
I recently upgraded my GTX 570 SLI setup to a GTX 970. I'm also running a 2500K at 4.0GHz and 16GB RAM. I also use 2 monitors.
Issue/Question
With my SLI setup, I could easily play a game on one screen and watch 1080p video on the other screen (Twitch, Netflix, etc.). I've noticed since my upgrade that playing video on the other screen introduces graphics lag into my game.
Is this expected due to me not having SLI anymore? Is there any way for me to optimize this?
Also, I have my 570s laying around collecting dust. Would it help (or is it even possible to) put one back into the system to handle 'secondary' activities, such as video streaming? Also could be used for PhysX?
This is all assuming that the graphics card(s) are the issue and not CPU ability.
Thanks!
Background
I recently upgraded my GTX 570 SLI setup to a GTX 970. I'm also running a 2500K at 4.0GHz and 16GB RAM. I also use 2 monitors.
Issue/Question
With my SLI setup, I could easily play a game on one screen and watch 1080p video on the other screen (Twitch, Netflix, etc.). I've noticed since my upgrade that playing video on the other screen introduces graphics lag into my game.
Is this expected due to me not having SLI anymore? Is there any way for me to optimize this?
Also, I have my 570s laying around collecting dust. Would it help (or is it even possible to) put one back into the system to handle 'secondary' activities, such as video streaming? Also could be used for PhysX?
This is all assuming that the graphics card(s) are the issue and not CPU ability.
Thanks!
opticalmace
Member
Try reinstalling your graphics drivers. You shouldn't be having any problems with that. Also monitor your CPU and GPU usage (e.g. in afterburner, or otherwise) while playing and see what's maxing out.
LiLSnorpSnorp
Member
pc gaf, I need some help with my cpu cooler.
I have the Noctua NH-D14. the 120mm fan, which is over the cpu, is connected via the cpu fan header on the mobo. The 140mm fan, in the middle of the cooler, is connected via my cpu opt header. The 140mm fan isn't functioning correctly--sometimes it is working fine, other times it merely twitches, and most of the time it just doesn't spin.
I have a gigabyte x99 5p mobo, I went into the BIOS and found that both the fans are running at 0.75 PWM value /oC. Would it be safe to change these values to be higher for the fan connected via cpu opt? (I tried it...and the fan still didn't function, but quickly turned back down the value--want to try it long-term).
Any other suggestions?
Edit: okay, turned off fan control in BIOS and now it is working at full speed (silly of me not to do that first). Would it be safe to up it's voltage to 1.0 PWM? (or worth it? it is spinning at roughly 1250 rpm--I have an i75820k, default clock speeds). Also, is there any harm in turning off fan control for the 120mm fan (and having it run full speed) as well, the one directly over the CPU? Noise isn't an issue, it is pretty silent when both are full speed.
I have the Noctua NH-D14. the 120mm fan, which is over the cpu, is connected via the cpu fan header on the mobo. The 140mm fan, in the middle of the cooler, is connected via my cpu opt header. The 140mm fan isn't functioning correctly--sometimes it is working fine, other times it merely twitches, and most of the time it just doesn't spin.
I have a gigabyte x99 5p mobo, I went into the BIOS and found that both the fans are running at 0.75 PWM value /oC. Would it be safe to change these values to be higher for the fan connected via cpu opt? (I tried it...and the fan still didn't function, but quickly turned back down the value--want to try it long-term).
Any other suggestions?
Edit: okay, turned off fan control in BIOS and now it is working at full speed (silly of me not to do that first). Would it be safe to up it's voltage to 1.0 PWM? (or worth it? it is spinning at roughly 1250 rpm--I have an i75820k, default clock speeds). Also, is there any harm in turning off fan control for the 120mm fan (and having it run full speed) as well, the one directly over the CPU? Noise isn't an issue, it is pretty silent when both are full speed.
So I have been thinking about upgrading the PC Liquidmetal14 built for me in 2014.
It has an i5 Intel 3350P CPU, and a Nvidia GTX 760 GPU. Both of these have served me very well for the games I've played on them. We're getting closer to Summer so I'll be able to play more games when school is out for the kids (I'm a teacher).
My question is this.
Would it be worthwhile to just upgrade one of these, or should I wait until I can afford to upgrade both? I knew the my CPU was kind of a bottleneck when I bought it, but now, it seems everyone has 970s, so that might be a better bet.
Anyway, just curious. I'm still pretty clueless about this stuff.
It has an i5 Intel 3350P CPU, and a Nvidia GTX 760 GPU. Both of these have served me very well for the games I've played on them. We're getting closer to Summer so I'll be able to play more games when school is out for the kids (I'm a teacher).
My question is this.
Would it be worthwhile to just upgrade one of these, or should I wait until I can afford to upgrade both? I knew the my CPU was kind of a bottleneck when I bought it, but now, it seems everyone has 970s, so that might be a better bet.
Anyway, just curious. I'm still pretty clueless about this stuff.
I recently bought an ASUS Xonar DG sound card for my computer, and I can't get my motherboard (ASRock Z97 Extreme3) to recognize the sound card in any of the PCI slots. I disabled on-board audio in the BIOS, but I still can't get my computer to recognize that there is a card in the PCI slot at all. The card doesn't show up as anything in Device Manager, so I am at a loss. I'm running Windows 7 64 bit, which is supported by the Xonar DG, so that shouldn't be a problem. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations? Thanks!
Ravijn
Member
I had a similar issue with my Soundblaster card. It had something to do with a BIOS setting and the PCI lane speed. I believe I had to set it to X1 to get it to acknowledge the card.
electroflame
Member
Anyone have any advice for either a right-angle USB 3.0 header cable, or a bendable USB 3.0 header extension cable?
Basically the USB 3.0 header is at the bottom of my motherboard, and the super-huge, bulky 3.0 header won't fit (too large, interferes with the case). So I need something low-profile to fit in there to connect my USB 3.0 case header to.
Any ideas?
Basically the USB 3.0 header is at the bottom of my motherboard, and the super-huge, bulky 3.0 header won't fit (too large, interferes with the case). So I need something low-profile to fit in there to connect my USB 3.0 case header to.
Any ideas?
roadrunn3r
Member
That 3350P is still an Ivy bridge quad core @3.3 so not that bad yet but you would definitely notice the jump to a newer platform let's say Skylake + DDR4 in terms of min/max frames.
As for the GPU, a 970 or a 390 would be a great upgrade for you but then again new cards should be out soon so I would wait at least a month till we have more info. Or you upgrade the GPU now if you find a good deal and sell it later when the new cards are out. I dunno man, it's a bit of a difficult decision to make at this exact time.
I'm selling my GTX 980 and am planning on buying a 980 Ti.. now, which one should I get?
I'm considering the EVGA Classified, the EVGA ACX 2.0 FTW and the Gigabyte G1.
From what I've read, it sounds like the Classified is the better card to get, but some people mentioned that it's designed for water cooling. I'm not planning on water cooling, so would the FTW be the better choice?
Also, are there any good sites to go to for deals on these? I just missed a few Ti deals and can't find any that are in the $500-600 range. The lowest I can find right now is $619 after a rebate card.
I'm also looking into getting a 34" ultrawide eventually. I'd like Gsync or Freesync. Should I consider an AMD card since Freesync monitors are cheaper?
I'm considering the EVGA Classified, the EVGA ACX 2.0 FTW and the Gigabyte G1.
From what I've read, it sounds like the Classified is the better card to get, but some people mentioned that it's designed for water cooling. I'm not planning on water cooling, so would the FTW be the better choice?
Also, are there any good sites to go to for deals on these? I just missed a few Ti deals and can't find any that are in the $500-600 range. The lowest I can find right now is $619 after a rebate card.
I'm also looking into getting a 34" ultrawide eventually. I'd like Gsync or Freesync. Should I consider an AMD card since Freesync monitors are cheaper?
Hmm, I can't find any settings like that in my BIOS, and a few Google searches didn't bring up anything either. There no LEDs on the card itself, so I'm not sure if it's even getting power or not.
Make this decision after next week ok?
LiLSnorpSnorp
Member
I bought the acer x34 predator (100 hz, g-sync) off the MS store a few weeks ago. Beautiful monitor! I have had no issues with it (earlier models seemed to have some a lot of issues). It's really pricey tho. Even the freesync, 75 hz variant is almost $1k. Hard to get an ultrawide that's free sync/gsync at a lower price point. If I were you though, I would get a 980ti and g-sync monitor (like the x34 predator, I know asus also recently released a similar monitor). You can always get a cheaper 27inch 1080p ultrawide, I belive asus and acer have some at 144hz w/ gsync.
The sale prices are only for a few more days. I know that they're releasing the new line soon, but I'm not looking to spend more than around $600.
Is it likely that the prices on Ti's will tank after next week? Or after the new cards are released? I'm not sure that I would see a sale quick enough to warrant waiting.
The main reason for the upgrade is because I want to run at least a 34" ultrawide and possibly a second monitor (not an ultrawide) with it. I hear that a Ti is the minimum I'd want for that kind of set up.
I'm not sure which monitor I'll get. I'm not even sure that I'll get G-Sync. I think I'm probably going to wait a while longer on the monitor in hopes that prices drop or newer models come out. I may end up just going with something like that popular Dell model.
LiLSnorpSnorp
Member
The Dell is really nice, had a chance to see it in person. Go for it
Well, I'm pretty sure the sound card that I bought (ASUS Xonar DG) is jsut too old to be used in my build with my motherboard (ASRock Z97 Extreme3). The PCI slots are there, but for some reason it doesn't want to connect properly. I'm just gonna stop trying to mess around with it before I cause too much damage.
So, does anyone have any good sound card recommendations for <$100?
So, does anyone have any good sound card recommendations for <$100?
Looking to update my current HTPC. Want a boost for comfy couch gaming at 1080p. My 7850 is really struggling with new games. What I have now:
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz (not overclocked)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB
Case : nMEDIAPC HTPC 5000B HTPC Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX
Thinking I just want to upgrade my card to boost my performance. My case only allows for a card less than 9.5 inches long, so my options are somewhat limited. There are versions of the 970, 390 and 390X that I could get. Hoping to get something to keep me running for a few years and for the best bang for my buck.
Any input on these cards or recommendations for a different one? Would changing cards be all I really need to do? Thanks in advance.
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz (not overclocked)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB
Case : nMEDIAPC HTPC 5000B HTPC Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX
Thinking I just want to upgrade my card to boost my performance. My case only allows for a card less than 9.5 inches long, so my options are somewhat limited. There are versions of the 970, 390 and 390X that I could get. Hoping to get something to keep me running for a few years and for the best bang for my buck.
Any input on these cards or recommendations for a different one? Would changing cards be all I really need to do? Thanks in advance.
Optimusdouche
Banned
What do you guys think of this PC and what approximately would you pay for a 2 month old version of it? The prices next to it are put by the dude selling it.
Cpu: FX8320 @3.50GHZ £130
Ram: 20gb DDR3 1X 4gb 2X 8gb £44
Case : Corsair Carbide 200R £50= 2 FANS INCLUDED BUT CAN ADD MORE FANS TO THE CASE
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA- 990XA-UD3 = MAX 32GB OF RAM £80
HDD: 1TB WESTERN DIGITAL £22
: DVD RW 24x £15
:OS WINDOWS 10 64BIT INCLUDED
GRAPHICS CARD GTX 650TI GDDR5 £40
NETWORKING: WIFI USB 300MBPS £5
SU CORSAIR 750 CX SERIES £40
Cpu: FX8320 @3.50GHZ £130
Ram: 20gb DDR3 1X 4gb 2X 8gb £44
Case : Corsair Carbide 200R £50= 2 FANS INCLUDED BUT CAN ADD MORE FANS TO THE CASE
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA- 990XA-UD3 = MAX 32GB OF RAM £80
HDD: 1TB WESTERN DIGITAL £22
: DVD RW 24x £15
:OS WINDOWS 10 64BIT INCLUDED
GRAPHICS CARD GTX 650TI GDDR5 £40
NETWORKING: WIFI USB 300MBPS £5
SU CORSAIR 750 CX SERIES £40I want to reformat and do a clean install of Windows 10. I upgraded for free from 8.1. I'm not too sure what my 8.1 key was, is this a problem? How can I find it out? Ditto for Office.
EDIT: Never mind, I just found them after looking all afternoon. Figures as soon as I post I would!
EDIT: Never mind, I just found them after looking all afternoon. Figures as soon as I post I would!
roadrunn3r
Member
What do you need it for? Are you going to use a mic as well? What kind of speakers?
The Steinberg UR22 is better than any "gaming" card I've tried but it does cost a bit more. (149$)
What do you guys think of this PC and what approximately would you pay for a 2 month old version of it? The prices next to it are put by the dude selling it.
Cpu: FX8320 @3.50GHZ £130
Ram: 20gb DDR3 1X 4gb 2X 8gb £44
Case : Corsair Carbide 200R £50= 2 FANS INCLUDED BUT CAN ADD MORE FANS TO THE CASE
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA- 990XA-UD3 = MAX 32GB OF RAM £80
HDD: 1TB WESTERN DIGITAL £22
: DVD RW 24x £15
:OS WINDOWS 10 64BIT INCLUDED
GRAPHICS CARD GTX 650TI GDDR5 £40
NETWORKING: WIFI USB 300MBPS £5
Not a good deal to me, it's an old platform + old graphics card. If you are going to play only last gen games on it, it's fine I guess. (but even then you could do better building a budget PC by yourself)
I use it mainly for gaming and maybe possibly some streaming in the future. I'm using a Modmic 4.0 and a pair of Sennheiser 598 headphones, so I'm not sure if that limits the effectiveness of a sound card. I don't usually use speakers, the card is more just to reduce the background static in audio chat that i believe is from the on-board audio.
I just bought this GPU on Newegg http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5710#kf
As you can see the advertised clocks are Boost:1342 MHz/ Base: 1241 MHz in OC Mode
Boost:1317 MHz/ Base: 1216 MHz in Gaming Mode
I'm only getting 1102/1178 in Gaming Mode and 1127/1203 in OC Mode
I checked the box to make sure they sent me the right card and sure enough they did
What could possibly be wrong?
As you can see the advertised clocks are Boost:1342 MHz/ Base: 1241 MHz in OC Mode
Boost:1317 MHz/ Base: 1216 MHz in Gaming Mode
I'm only getting 1102/1178 in Gaming Mode and 1127/1203 in OC Mode
I checked the box to make sure they sent me the right card and sure enough they did
What could possibly be wrong?
digitalrelic
Banned
Selling my Asus ROG Swift PG279Q if anyone's interested:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=199582766&postcount=16452
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=199582766&postcount=16452
roadrunn3r
Member
That card would be perfect for you except for that Modmic which would need a XLR -> 3.5mm phantom power adapter. (def not cheap) Normal studio mics work well instead even budget ones so you either change your mic or just get a gaming sound card and be done with it. (can't help you with those though)
Optimusdouche
Banned
Okay thanks dude.
Fixed! Just in case anyone ever has this problem with the Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming 980 Ti, mine came with the LN2 BIOS button depressed.
SmartWaffles
Member
Try setting power management to prefer maximum performance in driver control panel, under 3D settings.
terrdactycalsrock
Member
Has anyone had any issues with the latest Nvidia driver? its version 364.72. Im a little gun shy after so many people had issues with the game ready driver for the division.
SmartWaffles
Member
The Netflix freezing issue and idling freezing issue are still not fixed so stay on 362.00.
Is 362.00 the most stable driver currently? I'm still on 355.82 and am thinking of updating :d
hooijdonk17
Member
I have a strange issue.. Ever since upgrading to a Zalman Z3 Plus case, the front USB ports have been acting weird. I would get intermittent disconnections and hardware errors for anything connected there through the USB2.0 port and only the USB3.0 appeared to work with any kind of reliability. As of late, even the USB 3.0 port has started to act up. Rear ports are all fine.
I'm wondering if this is either a PSU issue or maybe a board issue.. A power shortage could cause this I suppose, but I have enough juice in the system to reliably overclock my CPU to 4.1ghz from 3.3ghz.. As for the PSU, everything else including rear ports work fine. I've tried connecting the front ports to another USB connector, that did not help either.
Are there any BIOS settings I should check to resolve it? Legacy USB support or whatever?
System specs are below:
HiPower 500W ECO PSU
ASUS M5A97 R2.0 Mainboard
AMD FX 6100 CPU (@4.1GHz)
MSI Radeon 7700 GPU
Toshiba 3TB HDD
ASUS DVD-RW
It's more an annoyance than a problem.. but help would be nice.
I'm wondering if this is either a PSU issue or maybe a board issue.. A power shortage could cause this I suppose, but I have enough juice in the system to reliably overclock my CPU to 4.1ghz from 3.3ghz.. As for the PSU, everything else including rear ports work fine. I've tried connecting the front ports to another USB connector, that did not help either.
Are there any BIOS settings I should check to resolve it? Legacy USB support or whatever?
System specs are below:
HiPower 500W ECO PSU
ASUS M5A97 R2.0 Mainboard
AMD FX 6100 CPU (@4.1GHz)
MSI Radeon 7700 GPU
Toshiba 3TB HDD
ASUS DVD-RW
It's more an annoyance than a problem.. but help would be nice.
My dad asked me to build him a PC for photoshop uses. I put together a system:
- Intel Core i7 6700 (LGA 1151, 3.40GHz)
- Asus GT 730
- HyperX Fury Black 4x8GB RAM, DDR4-2133, DIMM 288
- some cheap LGA 1151 mainboard (might go mATX on this one)
- be quiet 500W
- Samsung 850 EVO Basic 1TB SSD
- LG disc drive
Haven't decided on a case yet. He wants 32GB RAM. I've built two systems before.
Any opinions/input?
- Intel Core i7 6700 (LGA 1151, 3.40GHz)
- Asus GT 730
- HyperX Fury Black 4x8GB RAM, DDR4-2133, DIMM 288
- some cheap LGA 1151 mainboard (might go mATX on this one)
- be quiet 500W
- Samsung 850 EVO Basic 1TB SSD
- LG disc drive
Haven't decided on a case yet. He wants 32GB RAM. I've built two systems before.
Any opinions/input?
hooijdonk17
Member
Windows 10 Settings app -> Update & Security -> Recovery -> Reset this PC/Get Started -> Remove Everything (Might ask for installation media or recovery drive)
CrashPrime
Member
Is there any disadvantage to leaving a bus powered USB drive plugged into an HTPC and not disconnecting when not being used?
Those prices are what he payed for the parts when he bought them new, right? Considering that it has been used and those prices are at retail I don't see any kind of deal on that in addition to it all being more or less obsolete tech.
Can a single 970 run 1440p well?
I could get either a Acer Predator XB270HU (27" 1440) or XB241H (24" 1080) for roughly the same price but I'm trying to figure out which would be better for a single 970.
Both are GSYNC, but I'm guessing the 1440 would be sub 60fps most of the time at high/ultra whereas it would be over 60fps with a 1080 panel. Does GSYNC even out that FPS gap? Am I better off just bumping the quality and FPS on a 1080 panel or is the jump to 1440 (and lower FPS/quality) make a huge difference?
I could get either a Acer Predator XB270HU (27" 1440) or XB241H (24" 1080) for roughly the same price but I'm trying to figure out which would be better for a single 970.
Both are GSYNC, but I'm guessing the 1440 would be sub 60fps most of the time at high/ultra whereas it would be over 60fps with a 1080 panel. Does GSYNC even out that FPS gap? Am I better off just bumping the quality and FPS on a 1080 panel or is the jump to 1440 (and lower FPS/quality) make a huge difference?
opticalmace
Member
At the same price? Get the 270HU for sure. It'll last you longer.
If you don't mind turning down graphics settings to some degree you can get by fine at 1440p with a 970 (depending on the games you like to play).
SmartWaffles
Member
362.00 is stable for me, the two after that are shitshow.
Scrap that graphics card, the integrated graphics of the i7 is perfectly capable of doing photoshop work, the disc drive is unnecessary too unless he has the needs to read optical discs. The rest sounds good, grab a decent H170 motherboard and you are good to go.
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