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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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havok75
Member
can a 350w psu run a gtx 970? I only ask because a 350w psu is what's in my msi case.
QuantumSquid
Member
Easily the second one. It's expensive but worth it for the Skylake i7, 16 GB RAM, and 980 Ti. You'll be able to play anything you want on good settings probably until 2018-2019.
Lashley
Why does he wear the mask!?
Second one it is. Wanted it to be future proof, it looks a beast too and should be VR ready
CharminUltra
Member
Hey fam, I have a quick question.
What's the difference between these two processors? Which one would be the better purchase?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BIWKNAK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUH1N4O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm planning to use them on this MOBO
What's the difference between these two processors? Which one would be the better purchase?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BIWKNAK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUH1N4O/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm planning to use them on this MOBO
Are you going to be using a separate graphics card?
Yes - Get this one.
No - Get this one.
The Athlon X4 860K performs better but has no internal graphics, so you need to get the A8-7600 if you don't have a graphics card.
I assume you already have the board, as otherwise we'd usually suggest avoiding the FM2+ or AM3+ platforms.
My computer just died on me. I opened up the case and see the LEDs on the mobo and gpu are on. When I try to turn on the computer the fans try to spin up for half a second before dieing. Pressing the power button again doesn't do anything. I tried flipping the switch on the PSU, leaving it off until the LEDs go out and then switching it back on. Same behavior with the fans the first time after switching the PSU off then on. I unplugged the RAM and gpu and nothing different. I tried the paperclip test and the PSU fan didn't switch on so I'm fairly certain it's the PSU. Does that sound right?
What are some recommended PSUs for an i5 + 970 build?
What are some recommended PSUs for an i5 + 970 build?
CharminUltra
Member
Oh? Can you explain why? I haven't built a PC since 2005 or 2006 so I'm super rusty and still researching my options.
Edit: my current budget (for the whole system) is around $600. What would you recommend for that price range?
If the paperclip test didn't work then yeah, probably something up with your PSU.
I'm a fan of the EVGA range - the GQ, GS or G2 power supplies are all great and are usually reasonably priced or available on rebate. The 550W or 650W versions would be fine for you.
The FM2+ and AM3+ ranges are old (the AM3+ range in particular), don't tend to perform as well as the Intel equivalent, and have a limited upgrade path.
If you could push the boat out slightly and you're not afraid of rebates:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($72.00 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($49.87 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.69 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($153.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $624.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-04 17:06 EDT-0400
If you can't be bothered with that though you could just drop the graphics card to a GTX 750Ti or the CPU to an Intel Core i3-6100.
Bear in mind Windows isn't included in the build.
CharminUltra
Member
Thank you very much! Really appreciate it.If the paperclip test didn't work then yeah, probably something up with your PSU.
I'm a fan of the EVGA range - the GQ, GS or G2 power supplies are all great and are usually reasonably priced or available on rebate. The 550W or 650W versions would be fine for you.
The FM2+ and AM3+ ranges are old (the AM3+ range in particular), don't tend to perform as well as the Intel equivalent, and have a limited upgrade path.
If you could push the boat out slightly and you're not afraid of rebates:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($72.00 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($49.87 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.69 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 2GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($153.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $624.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-04 17:06 EDT-0400
If you can't be bothered with that though you could just drop the graphics card to a GTX 750Ti or the CPU to an Intel Core i3-6100.
Elitist1945
Member
Anyone know of any good Equalizer Software for headphones? The Logitech app lowers my G933's volume dramatically. As in, when the app is uninstalled, the volume is much higher than when the app is installed and its quite annoying.
It's my first time doing the paperclip test but it seems like a safe bet that it's the PSU. Thanks for the EGVA recommendation. I checked online and the store near me doesn't have a GQ, GS or G2 in anything lower than 750W. I might just go with that in case I want to upgrade in the near future.
So, I'm looking for a new desktop computer for work(3D, video, heavy stuff) and games.
How is this build?
Motherboard: Asus X99-a USB 3.1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz
RAM: 16Gt(4x4Gt) HyperX Fury DDR4 2400 MHz, CL15
GPU: Asus GTX 980 STRIX, 4Gt GDDR5
SSD: Samsung 250GB 850 EVO
HD: 3Tt WD Black
Power: Silverstone 750W Strider Gold S
OS: win 10
~1920 €
any glaring mistakes?
How is this build?
Motherboard: Asus X99-a USB 3.1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz
RAM: 16Gt(4x4Gt) HyperX Fury DDR4 2400 MHz, CL15
GPU: Asus GTX 980 STRIX, 4Gt GDDR5
SSD: Samsung 250GB 850 EVO
HD: 3Tt WD Black
Power: Silverstone 750W Strider Gold S
OS: win 10
~1920 €
any glaring mistakes?
Thanks, switched to Ti model, price went up 250
I didn't list cooler and case, but was planning on getting these::
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14, LGA775/115x/1366 AM3/AM2/AM2+
Case: Fractal Design Define S Black Pearl
Motherboard: Asus X99-a USB 3.1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz
RAM: 16Gt(4x4Gt) HyperX Fury DDR4 2400 MHz, CL15
GPU: Asus Strix GTX 980 TI, DC 3, 6GB GDDR5, PCI-E 3.0
SSD: Samsung 250GB 850 EVO
HD: 3Tt WD Black
Power: Silverstone 750W Strider Gold S
OS: win 10
2 262
What about RAM, is there any benefits of getting 4x4Gb instead of 2x8Gb sticks?
Terbinator
Member
So I am looking for a second 980ti I have an inno3d reference card but finding a second one is proving difficult in the UK.
Can I say for instance buy a zotac reference and slightly the two different brands? I assume it wouldn't be a problem as the speeds etc are the same on both cards.
Also do we expect a 980ti price drop when the next cards arrive?
Can I say for instance buy a zotac reference and slightly the two different brands? I assume it wouldn't be a problem as the speeds etc are the same on both cards.
Also do we expect a 980ti price drop when the next cards arrive?
In all honesty there isn't that noteable a difference outside of memory benchmarks - performance in actual tasks will be relatively similar. But it is a quad channel platform, so you may as well go quad channelThanks, switched to Ti model, price went up 250
I didn't list cooler and case, but was planning on getting these::
Cooler: Noctua NH-D14, LGA775/115x/1366 AM3/AM2/AM2+
Case: Fractal Design Define S Black Pearl
Motherboard: Asus X99-a USB 3.1
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz
RAM: 16Gt(4x4Gt) HyperX Fury DDR4 2400 MHz, CL15
GPU: Asus Strix GTX 980 TI, DC 3, 6GB GDDR5, PCI-E 3.0
SSD: Samsung 250GB 850 EVO
HD: 3Tt WD Black
Power: Silverstone 750W Strider Gold S
OS: win 10
2 262
What about RAM, is there any benefits of getting 4x4Gb instead of 2x8Gb sticks?
Build looks stonking otherwise. It'll be one heck of a PC.
MikeE21286
Member
What's everyone's thoughts on this deal?
$420 after rebate:
i7 6700k with an MSI Z170A-G45 motherboard
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1242293-REG/intel_core_i7_6700k_4_0_ghz.html
$420 after rebate:
i7 6700k with an MSI Z170A-G45 motherboard
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1242293-REG/intel_core_i7_6700k_4_0_ghz.html
roadrunn3r
Member
Looks like a good deal. The lowest price on PCPP is $339.99 for the 6700K and $162.98 for the Z170A.
camequipped
Member
hey guys, might be a stupid question but I'm pretty new to building my own PC.
I'm looking to change my MB but will reuse the same CPU. Do I have to reformat all my drives for them to work on the new MB?
I have 2 SSDs and a SSHD currently. OS is on the first SSD, second SSD is used exclusively for games and the SSHD stores all my other crap. Most of my steam games are stored on the SSHD but steam itself is on the first SSD. Will Steam (origin etc) still be able to 'talk' to the other drives?
Hope I'm making sense and thanks.
I'm looking to change my MB but will reuse the same CPU. Do I have to reformat all my drives for them to work on the new MB?
I have 2 SSDs and a SSHD currently. OS is on the first SSD, second SSD is used exclusively for games and the SSHD stores all my other crap. Most of my steam games are stored on the SSHD but steam itself is on the first SSD. Will Steam (origin etc) still be able to 'talk' to the other drives?
Hope I'm making sense and thanks.
No, but you might have to buy another windows license. The other non-OS drives you can keep as is.
So I went and bought the EVO 212 and mounted it, checked temps running an i5 2500K at 4.0 and they were fantastic (mid 40s was about the average) while gaming. Overclocked to 4.5 following the steps of the video below and now my computer restarts every 20 minutes or so, once during L4D2 and another time while just on the Internet. Should I turn it down a bit? I had Core Temp running the entire time and never broke 60 C.
http://youtu.be/WMZoWOpry40 (Posted on mobile, if you can't reach on a desktop I'll repost it)
http://youtu.be/WMZoWOpry40 (Posted on mobile, if you can't reach on a desktop I'll repost it)
I'm using a Corsair PSU and it's been serving me well. Anything 750W+ should do. I know a lot of people swear by the EVO 212 from Cooler Master at a heat sink.
potatohead
Member
Don't take my advice very well as I don't generally overclock.
But when you overclock you also need to increase the CPU voltage via the motherboard generally.
It could be the CPU is just not getting enough juice if you just overclock without changing voltages.
If you do that and you're still crashing it's probably because the clock is just too high for that chip you have.
I bought the new PSU and swapped it in. Everything works now. At least it wasn't a more expensive problem.
Yeah, I raised the voltage to 1.35 V (like they guy says in the video). I know that a lot of people have their 2500K set to 4.5 so I don't think it's too high for it. I suppose I could try 4.3 though, can't be too big a difference.
So my friend wants to get a brand new PC. Someone we know did a build for him around $900 which is our friends budget. Wanted to check with you guys if he can improve onto this build:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Jsm3f7
Any help would be appreciated, thanks a lot.
Also, this would be more of a gaming PC.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Jsm3f7
Any help would be appreciated, thanks a lot.
Also, this would be more of a gaming PC.
Change the cpu to an i5 6600k, and get a Z170 board. The cpu will cost roughly the same, but the board will run maybe an extra $50. Im sure someone here can recommend a good cheap Z170 board.
Right now he has a 4690k with an un-overclokable mobo.
Mad Season
Banned
If you're gaming you do not want a 5400
Now is very good. Ddr4 ram is cheap, skylake has been out for a while and the price is back to normal. Ssd is cheap.
If necessary, just buy the computer and hold off on the gpu.
Soooo... is my GPU about to explode? I suddenly keep having these weird visual glitches while just browsing the web. Black rectangles popping in and out of view, parts of the screen appearing on the wrong side of the screen etc.
EDIT: Now that I think about it, while these more severe graphical glitches are only happening now, I have been having this weird problem when suddenly NVidias display drivers just crash and stop working for a few seconds (screen goes black and Sony Bravia TV announces "Scene selection has changed" or something) and then they work again (screen comes back to view). This only happens every now and then. Like, sometimes only once a month, sometimes a few times a day and then nothing for two months. It only started happening after I had to replace my last HDD when one broke (switched to SSD, if that is of any help solving this problem)
EDIT: Now that I think about it, while these more severe graphical glitches are only happening now, I have been having this weird problem when suddenly NVidias display drivers just crash and stop working for a few seconds (screen goes black and Sony Bravia TV announces "Scene selection has changed" or something) and then they work again (screen comes back to view). This only happens every now and then. Like, sometimes only once a month, sometimes a few times a day and then nothing for two months. It only started happening after I had to replace my last HDD when one broke (switched to SSD, if that is of any help solving this problem)
HarryDemeanor
Member
Are those glitches you list first only happening once a month too? Sounds like the card is dying to me.
Nah, just started happening now. Soon after posting that previous post, my computer froze and had to reboot. Now everything seems to be normal.
MrCunningham
Member
So I am building a new PC for a friend, and I haven't built a PC in over a year and I am not up to speed on prices/ performance.
This person that I am building this PC for wants a competent gaming PC that will last him for a few years, the current PC that he has uses the following specs:
I7-920 quad core at 2.66GHz
8GB of DDR3
Radeon 6950 with 1GB of RAM
2TB SSD
Right now he is looking to buy a new motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU and SSD. he wants to cannibalize his older PC and reuse his PC case and power supply. He has a 650W Corsair PSU that is only two years old, so it should be good to go.
So, what I want to know is...
Should I go with an i7 or i5? And are there any current higher end AMD CPU's worth looking into? What's the difference between a 6600k and 6500? Is there a peformance difference between a 6700K I7 and a 6600K? What other options are there?
Motherboard: I haven't decided yet. Will depend on the CPU.
RAM: Probably going with 32GB of DDR4. Not sure what brand to get, I haven't looked at the prices.
GPU: For some reason this guy likes to roll with AMD... so what about a 380, or 390? Fury and Fury X are out of his price range.
I guess need some general guidance on going from the previous system to the current one.
This person that I am building this PC for wants a competent gaming PC that will last him for a few years, the current PC that he has uses the following specs:
I7-920 quad core at 2.66GHz
8GB of DDR3
Radeon 6950 with 1GB of RAM
2TB SSD
Right now he is looking to buy a new motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU and SSD. he wants to cannibalize his older PC and reuse his PC case and power supply. He has a 650W Corsair PSU that is only two years old, so it should be good to go.
So, what I want to know is...
Should I go with an i7 or i5? And are there any current higher end AMD CPU's worth looking into? What's the difference between a 6600k and 6500? Is there a peformance difference between a 6700K I7 and a 6600K? What other options are there?
Motherboard: I haven't decided yet. Will depend on the CPU.
RAM: Probably going with 32GB of DDR4. Not sure what brand to get, I haven't looked at the prices.
GPU: For some reason this guy likes to roll with AMD... so what about a 380, or 390? Fury and Fury X are out of his price range.
I guess need some general guidance on going from the previous system to the current one.
You could go Skylake, you could go X99. 32GB RAM is overkill at the moment, so you could go 16GB with room to add more later.
It all depends on budget really. How much is he wanting to spend?
MrCunningham
Member
About a $1000 Canadian. But this not for a complete computer. Motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU and probably an SSD. X99 seems a little too pricey.
I think I'm having performance issues on my i5 6600. :-\
Cinebench R15 multicore benchmark gives about 380-400, whereas a friend of mine (and apparently many other people on the 'net, judging by a quick google search) gets around 600.
Results slightly improved disabling XMP, but there's still an apparently HUGE gap.
My system is i5 6600 on an Asus H170M-Plus mobo, with 16 GB HyperX 2133 DDR4 RAM (still waiting for the GPU to be delivered). Operating system is Windows 7 64 bit Home.
During benchmarks CPU is at 100% and clock seems to be 3.5 GHz (via HWInfo64).
Any suggestions?
Cinebench R15 multicore benchmark gives about 380-400, whereas a friend of mine (and apparently many other people on the 'net, judging by a quick google search) gets around 600.
Results slightly improved disabling XMP, but there's still an apparently HUGE gap.
My system is i5 6600 on an Asus H170M-Plus mobo, with 16 GB HyperX 2133 DDR4 RAM (still waiting for the GPU to be delivered). Operating system is Windows 7 64 bit Home.
During benchmarks CPU is at 100% and clock seems to be 3.5 GHz (via HWInfo64).
Any suggestions?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.98 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.98 @ DirectCanada)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($139.88 @ Canada Computers)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($89.99 @ NCIX)
Storage: Crucial BX200 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.96 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 380X 4GB Video Card ($332.50 @ Vuugo)
Total: $999.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-05 05:18 EDT-0400
Dear lord Canadian prices are ridiculous.
This should be good for you. If you friend isn't ever at all going to overclock, then you can drop the CPU down to the i5-6500, lose the cooler, drop the motherboard down a notch and then put the money into an R9 390 or even an R9 390X.
Did I mention Canadian prices are ridiculous?
Nvidia driver crash could be due to unstable OC, whether by user or straight from the manufacturer. If you card is OC, downclock it to the normal stock core and memory speeds for your GPU.
masterkajo
Member
I do have a Asus P8H67 Motherboard and 2x2GB Corsair RAM in dual channel. A friend gave me one of his old 4GB Kingston RAM. I put it in and my PC says I have 8GB of RAM now. But my questions is: Does it make a difference how I put in these RAM? I put both 2x2GB on Channel 2 and the 1x4GB on Channel 1B. Should I change this around?
Nah, it's fine as it is.
masterkajo
Member
Thanks for the quick reply!!
MrCunningham
Member
Yup, I know about the ridiculous prices. The Canadian dollar used to be on par with the US dollar (like 2012-2014), but it has been in a terrible state of flux over the last few years. It really sucks.
Thanks for the suggestions though. The $1000 price point is just a base price. When I asked my fiend how much he was willing to spend, he said around "$1000 - more or less".... So he might be flexible on the price and spend a bit more if needed. But I will take this and see what I can do to modify it a bit. But this is a good start. Thanks.
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