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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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I think I'm having performance issues on my i5 6600. :-\

Cinebench R15 multicore benchmark gives about 380-400, whereas a friend of mine (and apparently many other people on the 'net, judging by a quick google search) gets around 600.
Results slightly improved disabling XMP, but there's still an apparently HUGE gap.

My system is i5 6600 on an Asus H170M-Plus mobo, with 16 GB HyperX 2133 DDR4 RAM (still waiting for the GPU to be delivered). Operating system is Windows 7 64 bit Home.
During benchmarks CPU is at 100% and clock seems to be 3.5 GHz (via HWInfo64).

Any suggestions?

Are you sure the CPU is never getting the Turbo freq. which is 3.9 Ghz? Check the bios if turbo mode is disabled. Even that doesn't explain the performance difference though. Update the bios also and try manual RAM settings.
 

Turrican3

Member
Are you sure the CPU is never getting the Turbo freq. which is 3.9 Ghz?
Thanks for the reply.

I'll recheck everything and take note of the CPU clock, because I think I made a mistake in the previous post (should be 3.3, not 3.5 GHz)

Bios is already updated at the latest version available on the Asus website.
Meanwhile, do you happen to have some suggestion for the manual RAM setup? Or do I simply cope with Kingston specifications?
 

knitoe

Member
Are you sure the CPU is never getting the Turbo freq. which is 3.9 Ghz? Check the bios if turbo mode is disabled. Even that doesn't explain the performance difference though. Update the bios also and try manual RAM settings.

Max turbo is only for 1 core, in this case 3.9GHz. If he's running a multi core bench that pushes all cores, it's going to be lower, 3.6GHz for 4 cores

And, yeah, make sure ram is running at the current speeds since he disable XMP ram profile.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I'll recheck everything and take note of the CPU clock, because I think I made a mistake in the previous post (should be 3.3, not 3.5 GHz)

Bios is already updated at the latest version available on the Asus website.
Meanwhile, do you happen to have some suggestion for the manual RAM setup? Or do I simply cope with Kingston specifications?

Yep just copy the Kingston specs.

Max turbo is only for 1 core, in this case 3.9GHz. If he's running a multi core bench that pushes all cores, it's going to be lower, 3.6GHz for 4 cores

And, yeah, make sure ram is running at the current speeds since he disable XMP ram profile.

Can't say about a Skylake i5 cause I don't own one but I'm pretty sure my 4690 is running all 4 cores at 3,9.
 

Turrican3

Member
running a multi core bench that pushes all cores, it's going to be lower, 3.6GHz for 4 cores
That's the thing I was unsure of, but now that you said it I'm more confident it is exactly what is happening.

But I'll check it again later so that I can confirm it.
 
This is the closest feeling an old geek like me can get to Christmas.

7uWrssA.jpg
 

Accoun

Member
So, I've asked on another forum for a build from $550 to $800 and got this (keep in mind price differences between US and Poland).

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI B150M PRO-VDH Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($35.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card ($144.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman Z3 Plus ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair VS 450W ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($15.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($86.49 @ OutletPC)
Total: $552.23
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-04 19:14 EDT-0400
(more or less: the case and the DVD drive weren't on the picker site, but the case was just the plusless version - no idea about the differences)

Any opinions? I can give link to the store's own part picker if someone would be willing to help, so that there was no misunderstandings about the price.

Also, I want a card that supports analog via DVI. I still have a CRT monitor and I want to still be able to use it. Someone said this card doesn't in the comments, but it does according to the specs?
 

LordAlu

Member
So, I've asked on another forum for a build from $550 to $800 and got this (keep in mind price differences between US and Poland).

(more or less: the case and the DVD drive weren't on the picker site, but the case was just the plusless version - no idea about the differences)

Any opinions? I can give link to the store's own part picker if someone would be willing to help, so that there was no misunderstandings about the price.

Also, I want a card that supports analog via DVI. I still have a CRT monitor and I want to still be able to use it. Someone said this card doesn't in the comments, but it does according to the specs?
If you can manage it, the i5-6500 shouldn't be too much more but its got a base clock of 3.2GHz rather than 2.7GHz. I'd probably see if you can find a board with four RAM slots too, just for future upgradeability.

I'm not a massive fan of the case or power supply - the Corsair VS series is average.

Otherwise it's fine. The graphics card does support a single analog device via a DVI-VGA adapter so you're okay there.
 

knitoe

Member
Nope, just set the "per core" ratios to 39, that's the result.

Increasing the multiplier ratio means overclocking. A 4690 default ratio is 35. With a non K CPU, Intel does allow you to increase multiplier by a few increments. With a K, you can set it much higher.
 
Increasing the multiplier ratio means overclocking. A 4690 default ratio is 35. With a non K CPU, Intel does allow you to increase multiplier by a few increments. With a K, you can set it much higher.

Not on haswell, max turbo ratio is the maximum you can set non K cpu ratios. I can try setting them on Auto instead of manual "per core" and I'm sure it will be the exact same as I linked above which is 3900 on all cores.

Read what DPB linked above.
 

knitoe

Member
Not on haswell, max turbo ratio is the maximum you can set non K cpu ratios. I can try setting them on Auto instead of manual "per core" and I'm sure it will be the exact same as I linked above which is 3900 on all cores.

Read what DPB linked above.

The article even says it's technically an overclock. If you are running at the Intel recommend stock settings, probably like the person you responded to earlier, you CPU will only run at 3.9Ghz on 1 core and 3.7GHz on 4 core.
 
The article even says it's technically an overclock. If you are running at the Intel recommend stock settings, probably like the person you responded to earlier, you CPU will only run at 3.9Ghz on 1 core and 3.7GHz on 4 core.

I don't think the MCE can be disabled at all so you won't get different core ratios or 3,7 on 4 cores. Yea you could consider it an overclock, doesn't change a lot.
 
Any reason why, when buying a used GTX 970, at the same price, one should go for one with an aftermarket cooling solution - the Accelero Twin Turbo II, specifically - over the MSI 970 GTX Gaming?

Do you know the base model of said GTX 970 with an aftermarket cooler attached? I usually try for things that are well-reviewed and are a known quantity - the MSI's Twin Frozr solution is also top-notch and looks great to boot.
 

Zabojnik

Member
Do you know the base model of said GTX 970 with an aftermarket cooler attached? I usually try for things that are well-reviewed and are a known quantity - the MSI's Twin Frozr solution is also top-notch and looks great to boot.

I'm presuming it must've been the stock Nvidia with the blower type cooler. Anyway, just thinking out loud, I'll probably go with the MSI Gaming, since there's quite a few of those up for sale around here. Haven't come across a used Twin Frozr yet, I'll look out for it, thanks.
 
I havent been a PC gamer since 2004 with FarCry and every year i think about getting back into it. I was in college and was poor and couldnt afford to upgrade my PC when that began to sag so i went full in on console gaming and havent been back to PC since.

I play a good amount of online multiplayer shooters (CoD, BF, whatever's new) and open world adventure/RPGs (Elder Scrolls titles, Witcher) and i've been super interested in games like Subnautica and Overwatch on the PC and my jealousy might tip me over (though i understand both those titles are coming to console)

I have no desire for higher than 1080p gaming (unless it's really that profound on a monitor 30" from your face. never experienced that - am i missing out?) but i'd love super high frame rates for my shooters and overall "smoothness" in games.


Things that have kept me from investing and building a PC...

1) Cheaters and hackers. I play a lot of online shooters and i've always heard i should stick to consoles for the competitive "safety" and playerbase.

2) Couch gaming. I love to relax and sit on the couch at times and until now (Steam Big Picture from what i understand) a PC in the living room wasn't a smooth solution.

3) Cost and upgrades. There never seemed a perfect time to get back in and I wasn't sure if a ~$1,000 USD gaming PC would really be THAT much better than current consoles (not the WiiU i know lol).

Things that have me interested in getting back into PC gaming...

1) The open ecosystem. Though that seems it might be changing now with MS's latest push.

2) Exclusive titles, early access games.

3) Ability to customize visuals. I'm a FPS junkie and would rather have 120FPS than 4k gaming any damn day.


Any thoughts, advice or suggestions? Should i be waiting for Pascal to drop before even thinking of building?

Any build recommendations for ~$1,000 USD sans monitor and/or minus the cost for a Pascal card when they're released.
 
Anyone want to recommend a good cheap ssd? Really only need it for my OS (Windows 10) and a guide to switch it to the new ssd. I don't have a product key

Edit: for desktop. 250gb should be good unless there is a 500gb comparable in price
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Any Bitfenix Prodigy owners can help - I have three drives in my current PC: a 250GB SSD boot drive, a 1TB SSD for games mostly, and a 1TB HDD as general storage and more games. All are getting pretty full, so I'd like to expand my storage.

Thinking a 2-3TB HDD, but I don't know if I have space in my chassis to mount it, and also I remember an issue with my motherboard (Gigabyte H77n-wifi) that had limitations to the sata ports, so I don't know if I have enough free 'good' ones - 4 current drives including the bluray drive which I use for ripping, so I'd need 5 to add another drive.

The alternative would be to switch my 1TB with a 3-4TB drive, and transfer everything across. Am I right in thinking I could just copy stuff across and then rename the drive to D: afterwards and steam etc should find the content fine?

Also I think my motherboard only has 2x 6Gb/s SATA III ports, and the remaining 4 are 3Gb/s. those slower ports will be fine for any HDDs right?


Any sweet spot for size? I'm thinking WD blue as the blacks seem expensive and if I'm stuck with 3Gb/s ports would I notice the speed difference? Eg I can get a 4TB WD Blue for pretty much the same price as a 2TB WD Black
 

rinse82

Member
Will I regret it if I skimp out and get a R9 380 instead of a 390 or a 970?

I'm still primarily a console gamer, and won't be doing a ton of gaming on the PC - just wondering if I can save a few bucks and go with a cheaper GPU.
 
Will I regret it if I skimp out and get a R9 380 instead of a 390 or a 970?

I'm still primarily a console gamer, and won't be doing a ton of gaming on the PC - just wondering if I can save a few bucks and go with a cheaper GPU.

Depends. You planning to go beyond 1080p/60fps?
 
I have everything except the motherboard and case. I wish the motherboard came sooner because I've just been sitting here with boxes of computer parts but it should be here tomorrow and I can start building. So excited. How long does the building process usually take?
 
I'm presuming it must've been the stock Nvidia with the blower type cooler. Anyway, just thinking out loud, I'll probably go with the MSI Gaming, since there's quite a few of those up for sale around here. Haven't come across a used Twin Frozr yet, I'll look out for it, thanks.

Um, the solution used in the MSI Gaming cards is the Twin Frozr solution. The card you were looking at is exactly what you want, unless you're looking for a better deal?

Also, call me weird, but I prefer my computer components new. Never know what happened to them.
 
I have everything except the motherboard and case. I wish the motherboard came sooner because I've just been sitting here with boxes of computer parts but it should be here tomorrow and I can start building. So excited. How long does the building process usually take?

If you've never built before, maybe a couple hours? Depends on if you run into any problems too. I guess 2-3 hours.
 
Any Bitfenix Prodigy owners can help - I have three drives in my current PC: a 250GB SSD boot drive, a 1TB SSD for games mostly, and a 1TB HDD as general storage and more games. All are getting pretty full, so I'd like to expand my storage.

Thinking a 2-3TB HDD, but I don't know if I have space in my chassis to mount it, and also I remember an issue with my motherboard (Gigabyte H77n-wifi) that had limitations to the sata ports, so I don't know if I have enough free 'good' ones - 4 current drives including the bluray drive which I use for ripping, so I'd need 5 to add another drive.

The alternative would be to switch my 1TB with a 3-4TB drive, and transfer everything across. Am I right in thinking I could just copy stuff across and then rename the drive to D: afterwards and steam etc should find the content fine?

Also I think my motherboard only has 2x 6Gb/s SATA III ports, and the remaining 4 are 3Gb/s. those slower ports will be fine for any HDDs right?


Any sweet spot for size? I'm thinking WD blue as the blacks seem expensive and if I'm stuck with 3Gb/s ports would I notice the speed difference? Eg I can get a 4TB WD Blue for pretty much the same price as a 2TB WD Black

As long as you have the ports, you can shove the SSD's in wherever the fit in the case- no need to use actual mounts. Just tape or zip-tie them in someplace that doesn't mess up heat/air flow too much.

Most drives come with some sort of free cloning utility, I prefer to use those rather than copy/re-letter. Some links always seem to break when you do that. However, if you don't have much installed, just the Steam directory say, it's easy to fix.

3 Gb/s ports are fine for HDDs.

WD seems to swap around specs of colors, but I believe current Blue drives are 5400 rpm? That's fine for bulk storage, but if you're say, loading games off of it, it will be noticeably slower than a 7200 rpm drive.
 
Those OEM keys you can get online for like a 1/4 price of retail, are they okay to get? Don't feel like splashing out 100 quid more on a copy of WIndows.
 

scurker

Member
So I'm looking to upgrade my case. I have a new build from a year ago, but I'm tired of my 18 month old pushing the buttons to turn it on and off. My current case is about 12+ years old at this point and has been great, but I think it's time to move on.

Some things I'm looking for:

* Power button on top/hidden
* At least 1 external 5.25 drive
* At least 2 front facing usb ports
* Ease of access
* ATX form factor
* (probably) mid-range tower
* Some sort of cable management (my current case, Lian LI PC-60 has none)

I don't necessarily have a set budget, other than probably less than $200. Any suggestions for some good cases?
 
Those OEM keys you can get online for like a 1/4 price of retail, are they okay to get? Don't feel like splashing out 100 quid more on a copy of WIndows.

Yup get the pro version if you can. Having control on your windows updates is a game changer imho if you are annoyed by the fully automatic updates on W10.
 

wwm0nkey

Member
So Ive had a 120gig ssd for about 2 years now, I'm seeing a sandisk 250gig for $60. I keep seeing SSD prices are going to fall hard by the end of the year, so should I wait or go get this one and clone my 120gig?
 

LordAlu

Member
So I'm looking to upgrade my case. I have a new build from a year ago, but I'm tired of my 18 month old pushing the buttons to turn it on and off. My current case is about 12+ years old at this point and has been great, but I think it's time to move on.

Some things I'm looking for:

* Power button on top/hidden
* At least 1 external 5.25 drive
* At least 2 front facing usb ports
* Ease of access
* ATX form factor
* (probably) mid-range tower
* Some sort of cable management (my current case, Lian LI PC-60 has none)

I don't necessarily have a set budget, other than probably less than $200. Any suggestions for some good cases?
Here's a few you could look at:
 
So Ive had a 120gig ssd for about 2 years now, I'm seeing a sandisk 250gig for $60. I keep seeing SSD prices are going to fall hard by the end of the year, so should I wait or go get this one and clone my 120gig?

If it's the Sandisk Ultra II that's a good budget SSD, I've used one. Not the fastest in terms of pure performance but it's hardly noticeable outside benchmarks so go for it.
 
No, but you might have to buy another windows license. The other non-OS drives you can keep as is.

Thank you! I'll give it a go and hopefully I won't have too many issues.

So I'm looking to upgrade my case. I have a new build from a year ago, but I'm tired of my 18 month old pushing the buttons to turn it on and off. My current case is about 12+ years old at this point and has been great, but I think it's time to move on.

Some things I'm looking for:

* Power button on top/hidden
* At least 1 external 5.25 drive
* At least 2 front facing usb ports
* Ease of access
* ATX form factor
* (probably) mid-range tower
* Some sort of cable management (my current case, Lian LI PC-60 has none)

I don't necessarily have a set budget, other than probably less than $200. Any suggestions for some good cases?

If you're not too fuss with the 5.25 drive, the NZXT s340 is amazing to build in. Looks great and the cable management makes me look like I've been doing it for years.
 
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