BenQ is really great. I have two 144hz monitors from them and think they are the best of the non-variable sync high refresh monitors.
The 144hz would be worth.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I was looking into a new PC and thought the Alpha was best for my purposes. Is it really only possible to get a deal on these when Dell is offering a deal? I was thinking I should be able to at least grab one off eBay for a good price but they are pretty much charging prices for new equipment and the machine is gutted most of the time.
Take a look at the fine print, you may be able to get away with sending in a picture or photocopy of the UPC. If still not sure, ask both and see if one will take a copy.
Alienware Alpha is fairly proprietary as it's based on laptop parts and only Dell offers it, so there's not exactly an easy way to get it cheap.
Fractal Define R5 or Define S.
We primarily offer advice when it comes to PC building, so we don't really look for prebuilt PC deals that often. I can recommend that you keep an eye on the Slickdeals forum for computer bargains, like this i7 Haswell PC for $420 (unfortunately already expired).
On the other hand if you'd like to give PC building a try, then you can definitely get something that will meet your needs. For under $400 you can get OS, keyboard, mouse, and 8GB of RAM. I'd recommend these parts:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Pentium G4400 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Avexir Budget Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($26.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ TRION 150 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($61.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($24.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: XFX XT 400W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Logitech Wireless Combo MK270 Wireless Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($16.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $359.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-13 02:25 EDT-0400
If for whatever reason you prefer a wired keyboard and mouse, the wired edition of that Logitech set is selling about the same price. As for the RAM, 8GB is cheap enough that there's not much point in going with 4GB just to save money.
Are you able to unplug all drives except OS drive then choose to skip repair?
LyleLanley
Banned
I want to make my own PC again, anyone have a good recommendation for a good case for a living room PC? Ideally it would be something that can go in my media center but I could put it in in my bookshelf near my TV.
Depends on the hardware you want to put in it really, but I'm a fan of the Silverstone RVZ01.
LyleLanley
Banned
I haven't thought about it too much but I want something fairly powerful and I'm looking to spend up to about $1000-1500 but I'm flexible when it comes to that.
I assume you've got a standard 1080p TV - you could easily get something in budget for that:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($230.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: RAIJINTEK Pallas Black 56.5 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($32.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($134.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($87.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Momentus 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($294.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1059.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-13 05:09 EDT-0400
Or, if you wanted to go particularly high-end (and slightly over budget):
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($348.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: RAIJINTEK Pallas Black 56.5 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($32.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($87.10 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Momentus 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($619.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Silverstone RVZ02B HTPC Case ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Silverstone 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply ($117.99 @ Directron)
Total: $1541.02
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-13 05:06 EDT-0400
LyleLanley
Banned
Awesome, I shouldn't have any problems with these builds and that case you linked to before right?
Edit:
I'm an idiot and didn't see the case included in the build. I think I'm gonna go with your second build but with some more storage. It's been a while since I've made my own PC, is there anything else I need like thermal paste (I vaguely remember that coming with my last CPU I purchased and not something I got separately) or anything along those lines?
The cooler comes with some thermal paste so you'll be fine there. You'll need to get Windows for it, and install via USB. That's about it really though. It's a small case so when you build it take your time and cable tidy as you go along
Regarding more storage, the case can fit two 2.5" drives and one 3.5" drive. Make sure whatever storage you go for is 2.5" - whilst the case can support one 3.5" drive, it limits the size of the graphics card to basically nothing, so you wouldn't be able to fit a GPU if you used a 3.5" drive.
fifasnipe2224
Member
No I am not.
I was able to get an old HDD with a basic version of Windows 7 to work. The only thing I can get working is this water-downed Windows 7 is the task manager. From there I can browse the HDD for programs to launch, some of them work. I used Space Sniffer to scan my SSD (the one having the issue) and it seems all my files are still there. Weird that it is no longer booting up.
I am perfectly fine formatting the drive and reinstalling my OS. My only issue is I upgraded from Windows 7 to 10 and I do not have a 10 key. Not sure how i go about reinstalling my OS.
Also any ideas how I can wipe the old SSD in the limited Windows 7?
LyleLanley
Banned
The cooler comes with some thermal paste so you'll be fine there. You'll need to get Windows for it, and install via USB. That's about it really though. It's a small case so when you build it take your time and cable tidy as you go along
Regarding more storage, the case can fit two 2.5" drives and one 3.5" drive. Make sure whatever storage you go for is 2.5" - whilst the case can support one 3.5" drive, it limits the size of the graphics card to basically nothing, so you wouldn't be able to fit a GPU if you used a 3.5" drive.
Alright, I just had a great meeting at work so I'm looking to buy the thing today, is there any upgrade you'd make to that bottom build for an extra couple hundred bucks?
Hmm, I guess you could get the Zalman CNPS8900 Quiet cooler to have a quieter system. The Samsung SM951 NVME SSD is a much faster SSD, although you'd be unlikely to notice the speed difference that much. Plus if you want more storage you can always get the Samsung Spinpoint M9T 2TB.
That's pretty much it without going for a much larger case
Aruarian Reflection
Chauffeur de la gdlk
i7 6700k for $320 shipped on Ebay daily deal gogogogo (although I think it's taxed if you're in CA)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301881159030
I was contemplating a new build this summer but this shifted my timeframe by a few months =D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301881159030
I was contemplating a new build this summer but this shifted my timeframe by a few months =D
Burgess_101
Member
I need some new eyes on this issue because I am not sure if it is just my GPU is on the fritz.
I have a MSI R9 390 and since the 8th of April it has started to crash my PC. The GPU can't seem to hold a steady temperature. It happens in any game after a while. It happened first with Killer Instinct. Before the 8th I have been able to play the game for a long time with absolutely no issues but since the 8th it crashes in any game.
The temperature isn't able to keep stable anymore and just slowly keeps rising. Now my room is really hot and there isn't much I can do about it but even when I manage to keep it at a reasonable temperature it is the same. I have tried setting the GPU fan to 100% and it doesn't fix the issue.
I know the 390 is made to run pretty hot and from what I can tell around the internet the 80-85c temps I was usually getting in games is par for the course so I don't think I have just destroyed the GPU from heat.
Is it bad luck and the GPU has taken a turn for the worse? I have picked up a 390x (that I intend to send back when I get my 390 back from an RMA) that will arrive tomorrow. I am hoping that will fix the issue for the next month until I get my replacement back.
What do you guys think could be the issue though? I have thought about a lot of different possibilities but I can't really pinpoint it to just one. I tried cleaning my case from dust and what have you and whilst it has helped a little it has only made the card last a tiny bit longer before crashing.
I have a HAF XB with two Scythe Gentle Typhoons as my intake fans and a stock CM fan as the exhaust. My CPU runs at acceptable temperatures (for my room anyway). I have tried running the PC with out the top panel, same issue. Without any of the panels, same issue. My biggest thought was that it was my case frying the card but it worked for such a long time before this issue that it would lead me to believe that its just the GPU is dying.
EDIT: I had updated my drivers since the crash but I rolled them back (both through Windows and DDU) and no improvement.
I have a MSI R9 390 and since the 8th of April it has started to crash my PC. The GPU can't seem to hold a steady temperature. It happens in any game after a while. It happened first with Killer Instinct. Before the 8th I have been able to play the game for a long time with absolutely no issues but since the 8th it crashes in any game.
The temperature isn't able to keep stable anymore and just slowly keeps rising. Now my room is really hot and there isn't much I can do about it but even when I manage to keep it at a reasonable temperature it is the same. I have tried setting the GPU fan to 100% and it doesn't fix the issue.
I know the 390 is made to run pretty hot and from what I can tell around the internet the 80-85c temps I was usually getting in games is par for the course so I don't think I have just destroyed the GPU from heat.
Is it bad luck and the GPU has taken a turn for the worse? I have picked up a 390x (that I intend to send back when I get my 390 back from an RMA) that will arrive tomorrow. I am hoping that will fix the issue for the next month until I get my replacement back.
What do you guys think could be the issue though? I have thought about a lot of different possibilities but I can't really pinpoint it to just one. I tried cleaning my case from dust and what have you and whilst it has helped a little it has only made the card last a tiny bit longer before crashing.
I have a HAF XB with two Scythe Gentle Typhoons as my intake fans and a stock CM fan as the exhaust. My CPU runs at acceptable temperatures (for my room anyway). I have tried running the PC with out the top panel, same issue. Without any of the panels, same issue. My biggest thought was that it was my case frying the card but it worked for such a long time before this issue that it would lead me to believe that its just the GPU is dying.
EDIT: I had updated my drivers since the crash but I rolled them back (both through Windows and DDU) and no improvement.
Melchettsmoustache
Member
Well I ended up cancelling my HP Envy Intel® Core i7-6700 processor
NVIDIA Maxwell GTX980Ti 6Gb GDDR5 graphics
16Gb RAM
128Gb SSD + 2Tb (2000Gb) HDD storage
Bang & Olufsen audio
for the flowing from pcspecialist
InWIN 503 MID TOWER GAMING CASE (WHITE)
Processor (CPU) Intel® Corei7 Quad Core Processor i7-4790k (4.0GHz) 8MB (Special!!)
Motherboard GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD3H (gaming)
Memory (RAM) 16GB HyperX FURY DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card 6GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 980 Ti - DVI, HDMI, 3x DP - GeForce GTX VR Ready!
2nd Graphics Card NONE
1st Hard Disk 120GB HyperX SAVAGE 2.5" SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (upto 560MB/sR | 360MB/sW)
2nd Hard Disk 2TB SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 64MB CACHE
RAID NONE
1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive 24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM
2nd DVD/BLU-RAY Drive NONE
Memory Card Reader NONE
Power Supply CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
Processor Cooling PCS FrostFlow 120 Series High Performance Liquid Cooler
Thermal Paste STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
LED Lighting 60cm Blue LED Strip - To Compliment The Colours of Your Case
Fan Controller NONE
Extra Case Fans NONE
Sound Card ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking WIRELESS 802.11 AC1750 1,300Mbps/5GHz, 450Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD
The envy was delayed 2 weeks initially from the end of March and now to the start of May. I think the company selling it made a pigs ear of the deal and didn't mean to include the 980ti in their sale as its been replaced by different card now.
My only concern is moving from the i7 6700 3.4ghz skylake to the i7-4790k (4.0GHz) 8MB (Special!!) haswell (no idea why the spec says special) I'm hoping the faster haswell and the ability to OC will cover for the older tech.
Bought a AOC G2460PQ monitor as well.
Feels like a good day.
NVIDIA Maxwell GTX980Ti 6Gb GDDR5 graphics
16Gb RAM
128Gb SSD + 2Tb (2000Gb) HDD storage
Bang & Olufsen audio
for the flowing from pcspecialist
InWIN 503 MID TOWER GAMING CASE (WHITE)
Processor (CPU) Intel® Corei7 Quad Core Processor i7-4790k (4.0GHz) 8MB (Special!!)
Motherboard GIGABYTE GA-Z97X-UD3H (gaming)
Memory (RAM) 16GB HyperX FURY DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card 6GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 980 Ti - DVI, HDMI, 3x DP - GeForce GTX VR Ready!
2nd Graphics Card NONE
1st Hard Disk 120GB HyperX SAVAGE 2.5" SSD, SATA 6 Gb/s (upto 560MB/sR | 360MB/sW)
2nd Hard Disk 2TB SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 64MB CACHE
RAID NONE
1st DVD/BLU-RAY Drive 24x DUAL LAYER DVD WRITER ±R/±RW/RAM
2nd DVD/BLU-RAY Drive NONE
Memory Card Reader NONE
Power Supply CORSAIR 550W VS SERIES VS-550 POWER SUPPLY
Processor Cooling PCS FrostFlow 120 Series High Performance Liquid Cooler
Thermal Paste STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
LED Lighting 60cm Blue LED Strip - To Compliment The Colours of Your Case
Fan Controller NONE
Extra Case Fans NONE
Sound Card ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Wireless/Wired Networking WIRELESS 802.11 AC1750 1,300Mbps/5GHz, 450Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD
The envy was delayed 2 weeks initially from the end of March and now to the start of May. I think the company selling it made a pigs ear of the deal and didn't mean to include the 980ti in their sale as its been replaced by different card now.
My only concern is moving from the i7 6700 3.4ghz skylake to the i7-4790k (4.0GHz) 8MB (Special!!) haswell (no idea why the spec says special) I'm hoping the faster haswell and the ability to OC will cover for the older tech.
Bought a AOC G2460PQ monitor as well.
Feels like a good day.
So I'm looking to purchase a new monitor, but can't decide what would be best. I currently have, and usually purchase, AMD GPUs so free-sync is a consideration, but my main want is an Ultrawide aspect ratio of 21:9 with good color accuracy and black levels. I game quite a bit so the hardest thing is finding one with quick enough response times to not impede fast paced games. Any suggestions GAF?
lordfuzzybutt
Member
My i7 6700k is on the way, got hit with customs, but 160£ not too shabby
Damn good deal. Where did you get that?
Intel, still have buddies there who can do purchases for friends and family, it's 50% of the USD price, was £127 otherwise. £34 duty on top.
Z170I is ready to go
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Intel, still have buddies there who can do purchases for friends and family, it's 50% of the USD price, was £127 otherwise. £34 duty on top.
Z170I is ready to go
Nice. Yeah I remember you mentioning that. If I had that deal I would upgrade my rig in a heartbeat even if I don't really need to.
Yeh it's only reason I did it, definitely didn't need to haha. Money would be better put to the next gen GPUs.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Really curious to see the 980ti replacement. If somehow it manages to have at least 30% jump in perf I would probably jump. Quite unlikely.
I think it's possible due to the die shrink, it's the first time in a while we should expect good gains.
opticalmace
Member
That feeling when you have everything you need except for the CPU cooler. Dang amazon, ship it already.
draughn101
Member
Has anyone bought an open-box monitor from Newegg? I'm assuming these have been sent back. Can I expect dead pixels and edge lighting issues?
exmachina64
Banned
DerZuhälter;200769886 said:
Polaris and Pascal are both expected to debut at Computex in June. After that, it could be several months before they're reliably in stock. No one's able to reliably predict the status of GDDR5X at this point, but the yields for HBM2 are too low.
It's been the case for a while now that you wouldn't see HBM2 on the 1070 or 1080; that will probably debut on the Ti and/or Titan models.
Kaby Lake's not going to arrive for desktops until Q4 2016 and no one's expecting it to blow Skylake out of the water.
If my recent experience has taught me anything, buying open box/refurbs and having them shipped is a terrible idea.
draughn101
Member
Just wanted that verified, lol, thanks. Gonna grab the MX27AQ, and Im trying to pinch every penny, but it seems better to spend the extra $60 and get the warranty/better unit.
Dreams-Visions
Member
I'd just like to take a moment and stay that the Noctua cpu cooler has ensured that I will patron them again in the future.
Shit is splendid. < 30C idling on my 6700k @ 4.4.
75C loaded.
Shit is splendid. < 30C idling on my 6700k @ 4.4.
75C loaded.
adamantypants
Member
If all they're really doing is browsing or watching videos you can get away with a refurbished old office PC type workstation. They go for around $250-ish and will do just fine for light duty. You can even go the mini PC route and get one of those all-in-one Roku sized PCs for around $350 that's gonna get you performance comparable to a modern laptop.
99.999999999% of GAF will tell you that you should sell your first born for 144hz. I did at first but at the severe cost of image quality for the price. I play games optimized for 30fps and often times games won't even go past 60hz without coming apart at the seams. I don't play twitchy FPS games so I have absolutely no reason for 120hz+. If you were to ask me, I'd just go for the IPS display.
opticalmace
Member
Which model? I'm ordering a D15. Or trying to, dang shipping.
adamantypants
Member
Honestly it doesn't matter lol. My first build had a 90mm Noctua single tower cooler that kept my OCd 4670k under 80C at load. For reference, I had a D14 for like a month that kept the same PC at around 75ish under load. The D15 performs slightly better. My mITX build currently has a Noctua keeping my OCd g3258 steady at around 35C in a 11x9x3" case.
Currently though I have a Phanteks TC14PE keeping my CPU cool. It's quieter than the albeit with worse performance than the D15 but mostly just looks cool
Alright, not 100% sure if this is the right spot for this, but oh well, here we go.
It seems like I'm finally moving on from my Q6600 and DDR2 setup, but I'm keeping my GTX 670 and acquiring what I believe is an AMD AM3+ motherboard with some 8GBs of RAM from a friend for free. What's the best yet still somewhat cost-effective CPU I can plug in this thing? Seems like the 8350 might be a good choice at $160, don't know if anything that's better is really worth it for the platform.
I'm also unsure of the motherboard model at this point, so I don't know how well it'll overclock yet. I'm super familiar with overclocking my Q6600, but I haven't had an AMD CPU since the Athelon 64 (My previous PC before the Q6600).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It seems like I'm finally moving on from my Q6600 and DDR2 setup, but I'm keeping my GTX 670 and acquiring what I believe is an AMD AM3+ motherboard with some 8GBs of RAM from a friend for free. What's the best yet still somewhat cost-effective CPU I can plug in this thing? Seems like the 8350 might be a good choice at $160, don't know if anything that's better is really worth it for the platform.
I'm also unsure of the motherboard model at this point, so I don't know how well it'll overclock yet. I'm super familiar with overclocking my Q6600, but I haven't had an AMD CPU since the Athelon 64 (My previous PC before the Q6600).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I currently have the 8350 Black Edition and it is a pretty solid processor for the price. While not as efficient as it's Intel equivalents on a core by core basis, it plays games well enough and can perform well under multi-threaded applications. I can easily get the stock clock from 4.0Ghz to 4.8GHz without any fuss, but if you intend to do so I would highly recommend an aftermarket cooler.
Neato. I have Coolermaster 212 Evo so I think I should be alright on that front. Not looking forward to putting that sucker on another thing, but saves me a few bucks so why not?
Also looking forward to not having plex crash my PC when I try to stream something in 1080p. That'll be nice.
Gavin Robertson
Neo Member
8350 will gobble up Plex streams like a trooper, I use one in our Plex server, it's great bang for buck.
It was recommended to me to get a new-ish gpu as a stopgap to finally building a new pc next year. My pc is an i5-750, AMD 5850, and 8 gb of ram (built fall 2009 when these had just released). This was after talking with them about playing DS3 on it. They recommended a GTX 960, but I'm out of the loop for price vs performance (and am hesitant to spend much, because of the aforementioned plan for next year). While it would be a definite upgrade, is it the best option if I were to do it?
Consider the FX-8320E. It'll run a bit slower by default and cost a somewhat less, but if you're going to overclock it anyway then you can overclock it to get up to the same speed as the non-E models and it may not run as hot seeing as E models are binned (chosen at the factory) for running cooler due to lower voltages.
Best option depends on how much money you're comfortable with spending. Other than the GTX 960, there's the R9 380 and 380X which perform at a similar and somewhat higher level. The next step up from that would be the GTX 970 or R9 390 which are good value for playing most of the latest games at reasonably high settings at 1080p and 60FPS. Those graphics cards represent some of the better bang for buck.
There's also rumors of new graphics cards apparently due to release sometime soon. It may be worth waiting for those.
Keep in mind that whatever new graphics card you get now can always be carried over to the next PC, so don't worry too much about your old PC parts being a bottleneck. That said, if you don't have much to spend now then perhaps just wait (until the new generation of graphics cards come out at least) to see what you should do. Picking up a cheap secondhand R9 390 or GTX 970 is also an option.
If you want to play DS3 now and can't wait, look for a secondhand graphics card.
If cheap is all you want, then you can get cheap license keys from reddit. Here's my usual disclaimer:
Cheap Windows licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for cheap, around £10 or less. Windows 10 licenses are also available for a bit more. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Microsoft Technet or MSDNAA/Dreamspark. However you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are not approved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may refuse to give you support and/or deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it. That's not very likely, usually it only happens if the seller and the keys associated with them were caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. The 7/8/8.1 keys should be upgradeable to Windows 10.
Will do, it'll depend on the motherboard I suppose. I was likely going to be buying from newegg, where they're within like $20 of each other. Should I still go with the E do you think?
Excellent. That's what I love to hear.
opticalmace
Member
I think 1.4V is considered the upper limit for safe vcore with the 2500k. I would probably stop at 1.35V. Depends on your temps too.
Do some googling to be sure, but that's from memory. I would run my 2500k at 4.3Ghz at 1.28V or 1.30V (I forget which), kept the temps really low.
With that small of a price difference I would definitely go with the 8350. The 8320-E has a much lower base clock, which means lower total clock if you plan to overclock at some point anyways. And if you don't plan on overclocking, the 8350 will be faster at stock speeds
Makes sense. I'll probably go with the 8350 and see how far I can push it.
The temps seem to be around mid to high 40s. How is that?
opticalmace
Member
That must be at idle or low load, run it at full load and see what it is (I normally used prime95 with my 2500k).
What cooler by the way?
Hyper 212 Evo. I'll check the temps now.
- Status