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[killertofu]

So my 6TB Red Drive that WD sent me isn't being detected on my PC.

When I have it plugged in, my computer won't go past the Mobo Start Up Screen.

When I plug it in afterwards, its not detected by Disk Management. Other harddrives are detected.


This is really frustrating.

Not showing up in Disk Part.

 

[Cute Dragon Here]

Hey PC GAF, which is the better graphics card? The GTX 970 or the AMD R9 390? And which variant should I buy?

Disclaimer: I am familiar with computer terminology, but I don't understand the various choices on Amazon.

CPU and power supply?

Both are great choices for maxing out, or almost maxing out games at 1080p, and 1440p high. Don't think too much about the video RAM for now - either should have way too much for 1080p and 1440p in practice (I've noticed that mild RAM spill-over is fine).

The 970 would be better at DX11-based games, especially these with GameWorks, for the most part, as well as using less power overall - you should be able to get away with a lesser PSU of trustworthy model/brand, at least. The 390 demands more from the power supply and will put out more heat (GPU temps are just one part of the equation - 250W is still 250W!), but should fare a bit better in most DX12 games, but the two cards are pretty close. Can't go wrong with either! If you were asking me, though, I'd opt for the 970 if only because of driver features and stuff.

As for which variant, just get one that:
1. Is factory overclocked to a noticeable degree
2. Uses an open-air style cooler (not the NVIDIA reference blower, or especially the AMD reference cooker, in other words)
3. Looks fitting for your use case with regard to the rest of the system
4. Will work with your PSU's PCIe plug configuration (some cards want 2 8-pins, instead of 1 8pin, 2 6pin, or 1 8pin + 6pin)

For either card, the MSI Gaming variant of both cards are a good starting place to look at. Great looks, cooling, overclocking potential, though they eat slightly more power than the reference or Asus Strix (another variant to look for if you're into power-sipping) variants.

Either the MSI or Asus "high end" variants should be also dead silent when you're not playing a graphics-intensive game due to the fact that their fans spin down, so it's like you never had a video card I think EVGA does that too now, but do check to be sure.

So my 6TB Red Drive that WD sent me isn't being detected on my PC.

When I have it plugged in, my computer won't go past the Mobo Start Up Screen.

When I plug it in afterwards, its not detected by Disk Management. Other harddrives are detected.


This is really frustrating.

Not showing up in Disk Part.

Tried all motherboard ports and different cables? I'm thinking you have a dead drive.

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

I wouldn't recommend the 970 anymore. Even on 1080p, more and more games are using more than 4gb of ram. Xcom 2 being the most recent one that I played. I think I had it up around 6 gigs at one point.

A year ago, the 970 was probably the better choice.

The only reason I would get one is if a 390 won't fit in your case. Even then I would tell you to wait for the newer stuff to come out.

 

[Cute Dragon Here]

I wouldn't recommend the 970 anymore. Even on 1080p, more and more games are using more than 4gb of ram. Xcom 2 being the most recent one that I played. I think I had it up around 6 gigs at one point.

A year ago, the 970 was probably the better choice.

The only reason I would get one is if a 390 won't fit in your case. Even then I would tell you to wait for the newer stuff to come out.

Out of curiosity, what were you using to measure video RAM usage? I'm of the rule that "if you don't notice any significant, persistent stuttering, it's fine".

 

[Dalius]

The difference between an i5-6600K and i7-6700K is slight. I think you're better off getting the i5 instead, since you lose not much performance in exchange for massive savings. (And you'll still be able to overclock it, so you might make up the difference anyway!)

CPU cooler looks fine. The bundled thermal paste is just OK for your needs, though the amount is small. If only there is a valid listing for the Cryorig H7 Universal on the Canadian PCPP... If you can get hold of it and it's not too much more expensive than the 212, go for it.

For the motherboard, I don't usually advise a mini-ITX board. Micro-ATX or larger for most computers that don't have a hard size limit, since they're easier to work with and have much better expandability than anything ITX. I'm thinking of a decent motherboard with a Z CPU since you're going for video encodes and things that want all the bandwidth - either this will work for ATX, and the thing you've picked is good for micro-ATX. Do consider if you want SLI in the future - most budget Z170s won't.

That RAM is the cheapest standard-profile DDR4-3000 RAM I can find that I'd buy, so keep the choice. Nice.

As a boot and app/game drive, that SSD seems to be a bit too much for my tastes. Usually, most cheaper, but modern SSDs should do the trick, even if they do poorly in synthetic benchmarks. This Sandisk, Corsair, or Kingston, what I currently use in my desktop should work more than fast enough. Note that the Kingston is probably the only drive in the trio that is MLC memory, but it's also SandForce-based - not that it's a problem, up to preference.

The HDD looks good. 7200RPM of 1TB HDD goodness should be great for pretty much everything, including most games, if you're inclined to install things there.

I'd lose some subtlety for better airflow... if I were you I'd pick the Corsair without hesitation for a micro-ATX case. Same for ATX boxes... just pick the one with the most airflow. It's better for your components (Oh, and do consider ease of building, too.)

You can get the RM650x for slightly cheaper, and your computer would still have an overkill PSU. They just upgraded the RMx warranty to 10 freaking years, and component quality inside is undoubtedly superior to the standard RM, which happen to have half the warranty and some not-so-good design choices instead.

Anyway, I've arrived at this. See what you like/don't like

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($304.00 @ Amazon Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.15 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($138.49 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.25 @ shopRBC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.98 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $919.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 03:10 EDT-0400

Wow, that's a lot of information! Exactly the kind of feedback I wanted.

I agree about the 6600K vs 6700K, it doesn't look like a big enough bump in performance to warrant the ~$150 price difference. Also, that PSU does look better for the deal. I tend to overestimate how much power I'll need - my last build has a 1000W PSU and I doubt I've ever come anywhere close to hitting that. That's also a nice build you came up with - it's hard to argue with that price. Maybe going for a small ATX tower would be a better choice than a microATX - it would give me a much broader selection of motherboards & cases to chose from, at least.

Thanks very much for the feedback. You've given me quite a bit to think about. I'll definitely be back with the final results.

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

Out of curiosity, what were you using to measure video RAM usage? I'm of the rule that "if you don't notice any significant, persistent stuttering, it's fine".

MSI afterburner + rivatuner overlay.

I wasn't even using max settings on Xcom either. I think that was with fxaa instead of msaa. The base building seems to be poorly optimized.

 

[Aruarian Reflection]

The route I always go is make sure your Windows is genuine. Check the info under My Computer.

Then download the free Windows 10 thing from the msn.com homepage (I hate waiting for the pop-up if it isn't there). From there I do an upgrade to 10 and make sure the upgrade is activated and genuine. If it is activated you are now set!

Microsoft is actually pretty cool, because then your PC is now registered without he need for a key anymore. You can again use the free tool to make a bootable USB stick, do a fresh/clean install and when it asks for a key don't even bother. When you boot into Windows 10 after the install it knows your computer is genuine.

The only trouble you should have is if you switch out your motherboard. CPU, GPU, RAM, and hard drive changes should not affect genuine status.

That means I would upgrade Windows 7/8/whatever to 10 on the spinner (after making sure it was genuine), create the bootable USB drive on the spinner, make sure Windows 10 is genuine, replace the spinner with the SSD, fresh install, and be done.

Is there any way to preserve my Windows genuine status when switching to a new mobo?

 

[MadraptorMan]

Been playing around with making a new desktop here in Japan. Here's what I've come up with so far (keep in mind prices are going to be higher here no matter what):

CPU: i5 6600k (I really am considering going for the 6600 just to not deal with adding my own CPU cooler and stuff...but yeah I suppose I will OC in the future so oh well) -$270

GPU: Zotac GTX 980 Ti "Amp Edition" -$780

RAM: ADATA XPG v1.0 Series DD3 2133Mhz 16GB -$100

Mobo: GIGABYTE Intel Z170 GA-Z170XP-SLI -$150

HD: Crucial MX200 250GB (any reason not to go with MX200?) -$94

Case: Fractal Design XL R2 -$140

PSU: ANTEC 80Plus Bronze 650W -$65

CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (is there an equivalent option with pre-applied thermal paste?) -$38

What do you guys think? It would be my second gaming desktop I've ever made. I'm not that into OC'ing because it usually stresses me out, but I will probably OC very mildly if at all. I also get nervous about applying coolers/thermal paste more than any other part of the build.

 

[Cute Dragon Here]

MSI afterburner + rivatuner overlay.

I wasn't even using max settings on Xcom either. I think that was with fxaa instead of msaa. The base building seems to be poorly optimized.

Interesting, but if the game's sustained frame rate is low, it might be just that the video card is worked too hard. (is the GPU load 99%?)

Is there any way to preserve my Windows genuine status when switching to a new mobo?

Contact support. Keep in mind that if it's an OEM licence and it wasn't a Windows 10 digital entitlement, you can't transfer across different model motherboards, as that counts as a new PC.

Been playing around with making a new desktop here in Japan. Here's what I've come up with so far (keep in mind prices are going to be higher here no matter what):

CPU: i5 6600k (I really am considering going for the 6600 just to not deal with adding my own CPU cooler and stuff...but yeah I suppose I will OC in the future so oh well) -$270

GPU: Zotac GTX 980 Ti "Amp Edition" -$780

RAM: ADATA XPG v1.0 Series DD3 2133Mhz 16GB -$100

Mobo: GIGABYTE Intel Z170 GA-Z170XP-SLI -$150

HD: Crucial MX200 250GB (any reason not to go with MX200?) -$94

Case: Fractal Design XL R2 -$140

PSU: ANTEC 80Plus Bronze 650W -$65

CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (is there an equivalent option with pre-applied thermal paste?) -$38

What do you guys think? It would be my second gaming desktop I've ever made. I'm not that into OC'ing because it usually stresses me out, but I will probably OC very mildly if at all. I also get nervous about applying coolers/thermal paste more than any other part of the build.

I'm not a fan of Gigabyte, but that's just me. If you don't think you're going to OC, get a 6600 and a "normal" B150/H170 motherboard unless you still want OC RAM. Also make sure the DDR type matches... DDR3 won't work on something that wants DDR4!

Can you find Cryorig H7 Universal on sale?

 

[Lebneney]

Both are great choices for maxing out, or almost maxing out games at 1080p, and 1440p high. Don't think too much about the video RAM for now - either should have way too much for 1080p and 1440p in practice (I've noticed that mild RAM spill-over is fine).

Which would you say is more future proof? I've heard great things about both, but heard that I won't have to update as soon with the AMD.

Also, would you know which one runs hotter? I know it depends on the cooling system that I'm running, and the thermal design it has, but is there a general consensus?

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

Interesting, but if the game's sustained frame rate is low, it might be just that the video card is worked too hard. (is the GPU load 99%?)

I don't have a 970, so my fps was fine.

 

[MadraptorMan]

Interesting, but if the game's sustained frame rate is low, it might be just that the video card is worked too hard. (is the GPU load 99%?)



Contact support. Keep in mind that if it's an OEM licence and it wasn't a Windows 10 digital entitlement, you can't transfer across different model motherboards, as that counts as a new PC.



I'm not a fan of Gigabyte, but that's just me. If you don't think you're going to OC, get a 6600 and a "normal" B150/H170 motherboard unless you still want OC RAM. Also make sure the DDR type matches... DDR3 won't work on something that wants DDR4!

Can you find Cryorig H7 Universal on sale?

Wow, good find on that motherboard. I didn't even realize it was DDR4. Thank you! I'll look into the other stuff.

 

[DerZuhälter]

Goddamn. I need a new PC, my old rig, is really old, at isn't doing it anymore, but I feel like now is the worst time ever to upgrade. First things first this is the rig built in 2009 or 2010.

AMD X3 440 (Rana Core) stock, and 4th core is busted, tried unlocking it but system crashes when I do.
GTX 460 (Gigabyte OC) 1GB
8 GB RAM
GA-870A-USB3 Rev 3.0 so no AM3+ support

Feel stuck with the system, so need a complete overhaul. A new GFX with the CPU won't cut it and a new CPU on AM3 wouldn't make any sense. It made no sense at no point in time to be honest.

Now my obvious dilema is: 970 GTX is basically on the same price level as straight after release, due to the crumbling EUR v $ exchange price. Not gonna buy a card that's close to 18 months old for more than 300 EUR. Was waiting for HBM2 to be honest, but it seems to be so far off, apparently we are not even getting GDDR5X this year.
CPU-wise I'm also feeling burnt seeing gains between overclocked i5 2500K and i5 6600 as negligable.

I've got a PS4 6 months ago, so you know I felt burned by the PS4K rumors.

Should I wait even longer? Would be willing to wait to Christmas, but I guess there won't be anything of value out until then. Zen? Kaby Lake? Apollo Lake? What should I be excited for, if I don't plan to upgrade in another 3-5 years?

 

[exmachina64]

Goddamn. I need a new PC, my old rig, is really old, at isn't doing it anymore, but I feel like now is the worst time ever to upgrade. First things first this is the rig built in 2009 or 2010.

AMD X3 440 (Rana Core) stock, and 4th core is busted, tried unlocking it but system crashes when I do.
GTX 460 (Gigabyte OC) 1GB
8 GB RAM
GA-870A-USB3 Rev 3.0 so no AM3+ support

Feel stuck with the system, so need a complete overhaul. A new GFX with the CPU won't cut it and a new CPU on AM3 wouldn't make any sense. It made no sense at no point in time to be honest.

Now my obvious dilema is: 970 GTX is basically on the same price level as straight after release, due to the crumbling EUR v $ exchange price. Not gonna buy a card that's close to 18 months old for more than 300 EUR. Was waiting for HBM2 to be honest, but it seems to be so far off, apparently we are not even getting GDDR5X this year.
CPU-wise I'm also feeling burnt seeing gains between overclocked i5 2500K and i5 6600 as negligable.

I've got a PS4 6 months ago, so you know I felt burned by the PS4K rumors.

Should I wait even longer? Would be willing to wait to Christmas, but I guess there won't be anything of value out until then. Zen? Kaby Lake? Apollo Lake? What should I be excited for, if I don't plan to upgrade in another 3-5 years?

If you've got the money, I'd go ahead and upgrade to an Intel board with a 6600 and 16GB of RAM.

If the 970 is your ideal price point, it seems like a no-brainer to either get the 1070 or its Polaris equivalent.

Zen's performance should still be below Kaby Lake and Skylake, so I don't see a need for you to handicap yourself.

 

[Jimrpg]

I wouldn't recommend the 970 anymore. Even on 1080p, more and more games are using more than 4gb of ram. Xcom 2 being the most recent one that I played. I think I had it up around 6 gigs at one point.

A year ago, the 970 was probably the better choice.

The only reason I would get one is if a 390 won't fit in your case. Even then I would tell you to wait for the newer stuff to come out.

This. For example on The Division, I'm struggling a bit on 1440p and to keep it at 60fps, i've had to turn things to medium. It still looks great, but high/ultra looks amazing. Wait a couple of months for Pascal I think.

 

[Jimrpg]

I've got a media server related question.

I was looking at one of these NAS cloud storage -

I believe its on a cloud somewhere and I would be able to access all my files remotely.

Could I build my own media server and access my files that way? Reason I ask is that I commute alot and have two different homes so rather than dealing with a portable hard drive, I'd rather just consolidate stuff in one central location. Plus in one of my homes, I have multiple TVs where I can watch stuff.

Where/how do I start this, and what do I need to do to make it so I can access all my files remotely? I'd like it so that even my family from overseas can access my photos/videos.

Thanks.

It sounds like buying one of those WD NAS storage seem like the easier option, but sometimes ease of use means there's not as much flexibility, and I don't really want to rely on WD cloud software (unless somebody happily recommends it here).

EDIT: Of course for $161 for the WD NAS storage that price can't really be beat vs a PC media server, so I really need to weigh up the benefits of both.

 

[MarkMclovin]

Any idea if the 970 is due to get a price drop in the next 3 months or so? Is this what happens when a new gen of GPU's come out?

 

[ChuckNyce]

Would like to get some input on this deal. I scooped up the HP PC (980ti) deal and need something for gaming and then photo editing for my wife....

ASUS PB278Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 PLS/ IPS

$369.99

http://www.amazon.com/PB278Q-2560x1440-DisplayPort-Ergonomic-Back-lit/dp/B009C3M7H0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460423300&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+WQHD

I picked up that monitor a couple weeks ago actually when it was $402. I'm not a monitor aficionado but I think it's a really solid deal. I'm loving it for 1440p gaming. The extra real estate is great too since I work from home. Tilt, height adjustment, and the connectivity options are great too (hdmi, dvi, dp). Speakers are decent as well.

My only gripe with it is that I had a few instances where the display port wouldn't "wake up" if my computer had been put to sleep. I wasn't sure if it was my new rig or the monitor to blame, but most AMZ reviews blamed it on the monitor. Everything seems to be fine now but just a heads up.

 

[McHuj]

Anybody familiar with Lightroom performance? I notice that my system chugs a bit with these huge 42 megapixel RAW files. I am running a 2011 system with i5 2500k, 8 GB RAM and a weak graphics card GTX 460. Would upgrading the CPU and RAM to 2016 parts do much to improve photo editing performance? (already planning on upgrading to Pascal for VR)

The biggest upgrades would be a SSD for the photo catalog and maybe more RAM, GPU won't matter. CPU might make some difference, but Lightroom isn't very well optimized, imo.

 

[McHuj]

Any idea if the 970 is due to get a price drop in the next 3 months or so? Is this what happens when a new gen of GPU's come out?

Newegg has some for 279-290 today. There probably won't be an across the board cut, but daily deals and rebates as stock winds down.

 

[DerZuhälter]

If you've got the money, I'd go ahead and upgrade to an Intel board with a 6600 and 16GB of RAM.

If the 970 is your ideal price point, it seems like a no-brainer to either get the 1070 or its Polaris equivalent.

Zen's performance should still be below Kaby Lake and Skylake, so I don't see a need for you to handicap yourself.

Will the Polaris/Pascal release sync up with a new Intel architecture? And what about GDDR5X/HBM2. Are they out of the running to be introduced this year for new cards?

 

[Firthy]

The linked model seems good-looking, but the power supply is the big unknown. Same for the motherboard. Without further knowledge, I'm not too sure on it.

So, basically, just enough video card to have at least something close to 2 Xbox Ones in processing power, and more stuff leaning on the CPU and RAM, while staying within a rather strict budget?

This is the best I could come up with for you, assuming UK pricing and ATX case.

Note that you won't be able to overclock your CPU beyond the max turbo with this CPU and motherboard combination. For overclocking, you want a 6600K/6700K and a Z170 motherboard. Do note that a Z170 motherboard will also allow you to use RAM at speeds faster than DDR4-2133 at their rated speeds.

I'm going to suggest a GTX 950 for your needs, as it should be more than enough GPU there for PS4-level gaming on your desktop, outside of shoddy port jobs.

First one, the "budget" build, with cost as a major concern. Things are just done to "have it work", especially with the RAM being just a stick of 8GB, so a big memory bandwidth penalty (though usually not a problem).
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor (£152.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£45.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£25.12 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£44.98 @ Dabs)
Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£55.69 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card (£119.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H24 ATX Mid Tower Case (£31.22 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£36.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £512.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 10:09 BST+0100

The second, for allowing overclocking. Cost is less of a concern on the CPU, cooler, motherboard, or power supply. Also went and made the GPU a GTX 960 4GB, but now we're significantly over budget, most of the blame being on the CPU, cooler, better motherboard, and the resulting upgrade on the PSU.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£200.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£26.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£86.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£31.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£44.98 @ Dabs)
Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£55.69 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card (£178.63 @ More Computers)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H24 ATX Mid Tower Case (£31.22 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£75.07 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £732.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 10:12 BST+0100

Feel free to change any part if you have a brand preference or something, so long as it's around the same performance/quality level.

Massive thanks for your input, that has been a great help in me re-evaluating what I think I'm looking for (as well as giving more scope towards the budget!)

I have compiled a further list of components I believe to be suitable to me, i'll pop a few questions below the components list I have:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£200.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.99 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£146.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£58.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£68.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card (£164.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£58.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.74 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £796.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-12 13:14 BST+0100

* Is the £60 upgrade from the Z170A PC MATE to the GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 worth it?
* Will I need a 750W PSU (for possible future upgrades) or should I look at downsizing a little?
* Is there any large benefit between the GTX 960 2GB and 4GB that would be worth me upgrading?
- I will be using a 1TB External HDD so will only be using an SSD internally.

Many thanks for all your help!

 

[Vaga]

Feeling excited and anxious at the same time. It's been 9 years since the last time I've done this lol.

 

[xinek]

Hi everyone -- I'm looking to build a PC for comfy couch gaming. I'm usually a console gamer because of the simplicity, but the underwhelming performance of games and load times with current gen along with the PS4K announcement are inspiring me to build. I'd like it to be able to use it for at least 2-3 years before I have to upgrade something.

Budget: Not an issue
Main use: Gaming and Plex client (no transcoding). Probably some streaming video (Twitch and so on)
Monitor resolution: will be using a TV. Goals are reliable
SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Single player games with a DS4 or Steam controller, 1080p and 60 fps. Lower res and frame rate not acceptable -- I'll keep using the PS4 otherwise. FAST load times, please.
Looking to reuse any parts? Nope, first build EVER.
When will you build? Doesn't matter, anytime. Although I really want to play Dark Souls III on it soon!
Will you be overclocking? No?

Here's my first attempt:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.77 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Wired Network Adapter: TP-Link TG-3468 10/100/1000 Mbps PCI-Express x1 Network Adapter ($11.58 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad ($29.69 @ Amazon)
Total: $812.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-12 09:41 EDT-0400

Questions:
- Since the monitor is a TV, I'll never go over 1080p or 60 fps. So is there any reason to wait for the new graphics cards to come out, or is the one I've selected going to be good for a while?
- I'll be using Astro A40s sometimes -- does this mean I'll need a sound card?
- How can this build be the most energy efficient?
- Do I need a disc drive for any real reason?
- All video/audio from this PC will be sent to an A/V receiver, I'm guessing HDMI is the best. Any gotchas here?
- It will be in the living room, so it has to be quiet. It will be in a semi-enclosed cabinet, so additional airflow may be needed? Can I add my own sound dampening to pretty much any case?
- I didn't add a power supply or CPU cooler to the parts list -- doesn't that depend on what case you get, because some of them include it?

 

[Cute Dragon Here]

Massive thanks for your input, that has been a great help in me re-evaluating what I think I'm looking for (as well as giving more scope towards the budget!)

I have compiled a further list of components I believe to be suitable to me, i'll pop a few questions below the components list I have:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£200.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.99 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£146.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£58.98 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£68.99 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card (£164.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (£58.98 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£69.74 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £796.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-12 13:14 BST+0100

* Is the £60 upgrade from the Z170A PC MATE to the GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 worth it?
* Will I need a 750W PSU (for possible future upgrades) or should I look at downsizing a little?
* Is there any large benefit between the GTX 960 2GB and 4GB that would be worth me upgrading?
- I will be using a 1TB External HDD so will only be using an SSD internally.

Many thanks for all your help!

Depends if you want SLI support, better audio outputs, and all the ports in the rear. The second Ethernet port screams "excess", but that's just me.

Note that MSI and Asus have their equivalents to the Gigabyte you've listed.[/URL] I'm just not too much of a fan (or at least my dad's company), so make of it what you will. If you were asking me I'd probably lean towards the latter two, if only for the firmware (And don't tell anyone that I love the MSI's looks)

750W PSU should only be required if you SLI two 980 Tis, 390s, or something similar. If that's not the case, well, anything 500+W with a good 12V rail (at least 80% of rated capacity), 80+ Bronze, and 3-year warranty or better from a reputable brand should work. (Off the top of my head: Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic, Silverstone, Antec, XFX, and conditionally Cooler Master and Thermaltake)

The 4GB model of the GTX 960 should offer you significantly better high-percentile frame times (99% percentile frame time and minimum FPS) in certain games that use a lot of video RAM, exceeding the limits of a 2GB video card. For games that don't need that much VRAM, its improvements are slight, but for games that need that (or have a setting that soaks VRAM without otherwise affecting performance), the 4GB makes things a much smoother ride. Your call on whether the 4GB is worth it - usually, if the premium is not too big, why not?

(Remember that you can always overclock your GPU. It's easy as pie!)

Sounds great. The SSD still sounds a bit excessive to me though, but on the other hand, better warranty terms.

Hi everyone -- I'm looking to build a PC for comfy couch gaming. I'm usually a console gamer because of the simplicity, but the underwhelming performance of games and load times with current gen along with the PS4K announcement are inspiring me to build. I'd like it to be able to use it for at least 2-3 years before I have to upgrade something.

Budget: Not an issue
Main use: Gaming and Plex client (no transcoding). Probably some streaming video (Twitch and so on)
Monitor resolution: will be using a TV. Goals are reliable
SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Single player games with a DS4 or Steam controller, 1080p and 60 fps. Lower res and frame rate not acceptable -- I'll keep using the PS4 otherwise. FAST load times, please.
Looking to reuse any parts? Nope, first build EVER.
When will you build? Doesn't matter, anytime. Although I really want to play Dark Souls III on it soon!
Will you be overclocking? No?

Here's my first attempt:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.77 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Wired Network Adapter: TP-Link TG-3468 10/100/1000 Mbps PCI-Express x1 Network Adapter ($11.58 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad ($29.69 @ Amazon)
Total: $812.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-12 09:41 EDT-0400

Questions:
- Since the monitor is a TV, I'll never go over 1080p or 60 fps. So is there any reason to wait for the new graphics cards to come out, or is the one I've selected going to be good for a while?
- I'll be using Astro A40s sometimes -- does this mean I'll need a sound card?
- How can this build be the most energy efficient?
- Do I need a disc drive for any real reason?
- All video/audio from this PC will be sent to an A/V receiver, I'm guessing HDMI is the best. Any gotchas here?
- It will be in the living room, so it has to be quiet. It will be in a semi-enclosed cabinet, so additional airflow may be needed? Can I add my own sound dampening to pretty much any case?
- I didn't add a power supply or CPU cooler to the parts list -- doesn't that depend on what case you get, because some of them include it?

i3 and AMD video card? Either get an i5 or an NVIDIA equivalent video card (970). That CPU's gonna bottleneck the AMD like crazy in DX11 or CPU-heavy games.

What's the impedance of the headphones you have? If it's something like 32 ohms or something, you probably don't need a sound card. Even then, a motherboard with a headphones amp shouldn't be too expensive, especially when you consider that these motherboards generally feature a lot more things onboard, giving you more in a board. Things like 4 RAM slots, better component quality, heatsinks on VRMs... the works.

Energy efficient? Well, the 390 eats 100W more power worst-case compared to the 970. Neither card will work anywhere near their TDPs, but the average 970 should use less power than the average 970. If energy efficiency is a concern, get the 970 instead.

No, you shouldn't need a disc drive these days. A disc drive is cheap, though - less than $20, usually $15, should get you a DVD writer, with external ones not much more expensive than that. I usually just get one even though most people think they don't need it because sometimes I do run into situations where one is needed.

Skip the wired network adapter. You don't need one unless you have very specific needs.

Are you sure you need the wireless adapter? For best performance, wire a cable to the motherboard's Ethernet port.

Make sure your PC is set to output by default via the HDMI cable. Check the Sound Properties (right click volume icon at taskbar) for more information.

Getting a good motherboard with good fan controls (full voltage and PWM control for both 3-pin and 4-pin fans) is a must (this is where I lean towards higher-end Asuses and MSIs), as well as a semi-passive video card (so it's not loud when you're not playing a heavy video game) - most modern-style open air coolers from Asus and MSI (look for Strix and MSI Gaming labels) will shut down their fans when not too hot. I think EVGA, Zotac, and Palit do that too thesedays.

DO NOT RELY ON A FREE PSU WITH A CASE. Most good cases don't come with a PSU anyway. Most ATX and microATX cases will take any ATX supply within a length limit, but some ITX cases may require an SFX PSU. Since you never mentioned what form factor, I'll wait for your consideration.

CPU cooler? If you're not doing any OCing, it should be quiet until you are at load with an Intel stock cooler. It's hard to find a good cooler that isn't liquid cooled if you're going ITX, by the way. Check clearance!

 

[drhankmccoyphd]

My trusty wired 360 controller died last night after nearly a decade of service. Should I upgrade to a Xbox One controller (maybe an elite if I find one cheap)? I loved how the 360 pad worked with damn near everything which I can't say for the DS4. I'm wondering if the One has the same issue.

 

[BioHazard]

Can anyone take a look at my potential build?
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vLLRf7

Are there any glaring errors or problems, suggestions?

 

[draughn101]

I picked up that monitor a couple weeks ago actually when it was $402. I'm not a monitor aficionado but I think it's a really solid deal. I'm loving it for 1440p gaming. The extra real estate is great too since I work from home. Tilt, height adjustment, and the connectivity options are great too (hdmi, dvi, dp). Speakers are decent as well.

My only gripe with it is that I had a few instances where the display port wouldn't "wake up" if my computer had been put to sleep. I wasn't sure if it was my new rig or the monitor to blame, but most AMZ reviews blamed it on the monitor. Everything seems to be fine now but just a heads up.

Thanks for the info!! I went to Fry's to pick it up and they tried the, "Oh we don't have that but we have this $200 more expensive one" even after they told me over the phone that they had 3. So, I'm gonna browse and bit more and grab it off Amazon if nothing else sticks out.

Now Im looking at this Acer B6 Series B286HK 4k at Newegg for $329.99

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009659&ignorebbr=1

 

[Leezard]

Hi GAF PC gurus, I have a two year old and I'm looking for an answer on whether it would make sense to upgrade my CPU. I appreciate any answers.

Motherboard: ASRock H87M mATX

RAM: ADATA 8GB (2x4GB) CL9 1600MHz XPG

CPU: Intel Core i3 4340 3.6 GHz (Haswell)

PSU: CX 500M 80+ Bronze Modular

GPU: PowerColor Radeon R9 280X 3GB TurboDuo OC (AXR9 280X 3GBD5-T2DHE/OC)

I've been suspecting that my cpu might be a bottleneck, and when I recently checked sysreqlabs for Dark Souls 3 specs it said my cpu failed. I thought I'd give Dark Souls 3 a try anyway, but it's crashing all the time. Sometimes I get error messages about low memory, sometimes I get no error messages, sometimes it gives me a failed memory read error.

Nevertheless, I think it's an issue with my cpu. I'm thinking of upgrading to a i7-4790K since I saw what I thought was a good deal, it costs €250 (2490 SEK), which is almost €100 cheaper than any other Swedish site and around €10 more expensive than the i5-4690K.

Do you think this upgrade makes sense, or is it a waste of money?

There should be no issues with compability with the motherboard, right? Both are Socket 1150, and the motherboard has chipset Intel H87, which is among the compatible chipsets.

 

[garath]

So I've been looking at gaming monitors. Looking for a big step up compared to my 24" 60hz cheapish TN panel.

Right now with my budget of $400 I'm torn between 24" with gsync or 27" without. There seems to be bigger and better displays available without g-sync in my price range.

Is 144hz enough of a step up or will I really be hurting myself without gsync? Frankly I'm not even sure if nvidia would be my next card in a couple years (though historically it has been).

Looking at a few options:

No gsync:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8LTB3W/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWFNMJS/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0ZRQTM/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Gsync:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C05C1OK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Or if I completely break the bank (and my wife's trust)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUTW5LG/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thoughts? Gsync or bust? Or roll with the 27" 144hz?

 

[Bloodember]

Is there any way to preserve my Windows genuine status when switching to a new mobo?

If it's an upgrade from 8,8.1, or 7 just use the key from your previous version and it'll authenticate. If it's a 10 key, just use that key.

 

[draughn101]

So I've been looking at gaming monitors. Looking for a big step up compared to my 24" 60hz cheapish TN panel.

Thoughts? Gsync or bust? Or roll with the 27" 144hz?

I'm in the same boat. Let me know what you end up going with. I'm looking at 1440p in the least for my resolution tho. Thanks for all the links.

Tigerdirect has a 27" BenQ GW2765HT WQHD for 379.99...or $336 on Amazon.

 

[cHinzo]

Finally built my first rig this weekend with a combination of new and used parts to try to get the most out of my budget. Ended up spending €820 on the PC itself, €200 on the monitor and €30 on the keyboard for a total of €1050. A bit over budget, but in return I got a lot more 'future proof' stuff like an i7 Skylake CPU, a 970 GTX and a 144Hz monitor. The case was also awesome, with lots of room to work with and other stuff included like, magnetic dust filters, two 140 cm fans in front and one 120 cm fan with led in the rear, two USB 3.0 and two USB 2.0 ports on the front panel and seven of those mounting brackets for SSDs and HDDs. Was looking at the Phanteks Eclipse P400 and the Fractal Design Define S at first, but this case got so many features it was definitely worth it. Too bad the cables of the SeaSonic GPU were really short. Messed up the cable management, so no pics from the inside! :"D

PC

CPU: Intel Core i7 6700 3.4GHz
CPU Cooler: Cryorig M9i
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B150-HD3P
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB DDR4-2133Mhz Memory
GPU: EVGA 970 GTX 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0
PSU: SeaSonic S12II-620 Bronze 620W
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB Solid State Drive
Case: Sharkoon BW9000-W Black ATX Mid Tower Case

Monitor: BenQ XL2420Z 144Hz 1080p Monitor
Keyboard: Sharkoon K20
Mouse: Zowie EC2-A

Some pics:

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Hi GAF PC gurus, I have a two year old and I'm looking for an answer on whether it would make sense to upgrade my CPU. I appreciate any answers.

Motherboard: ASRock H87M mATX

RAM: ADATA 8GB (2x4GB) CL9 1600MHz XPG

CPU: Intel Core i3 4340 3.6 GHz (Haswell)

PSU: CX 500M 80+ Bronze Modular

GPU: PowerColor Radeon R9 280X 3GB TurboDuo OC (AXR9 280X 3GBD5-T2DHE/OC)

I've been suspecting that my cpu might be a bottleneck, and when I recently checked sysreqlabs for Dark Souls 3 specs it said my cpu failed. I thought I'd give Dark Souls 3 a try anyway, but it's crashing all the time. Sometimes I get error messages about low memory, sometimes I get no error messages, sometimes it gives me a failed memory read error.

Nevertheless, I think it's an issue with my cpu. I'm thinking of upgrading to a i7-4790K since I saw what I thought was a good deal, it costs €250 (2490 SEK), which is almost €100 cheaper than any other Swedish site and around €10 more expensive than the i5-4690K.

Do you think this upgrade makes sense, or is it a waste of money?

There should be no issues with compability with the motherboard, right? Both are Socket 1150, and the motherboard has chipset Intel H87, which is among the compatible chipsets.

Those DS3 problems are most likely because of the game, check out the PC performance thread, tons of people having the same issues with you.

But to answer your question, yes, it makes sense, the 4790K will demolish that i3 and more and more games are utilizing more threads now.

 

[Leezard]

Those DS3 problems are most likely because of the game, check out the PC performance thread, tons of people having the same issues with you.

But to answer your question, yes, it makes sense, the 4790K will demolish that i3 and more and more games are utilizing more threads now.

All right, thank you!

 

[Vaga]

All done here, stoked how quiet and cool it turned out.

 

[Flaxh]

All done here, stoked how quiet and cool it turned out.

Thoughts on the case? I'm considering buying one

 

[paskowitz]

If anyone is looking for some "reasonably" priced fast, fancy DDR3 RAM, Newegg currently has this Klevv kit at a good price. Normally this RAM is (insanely) priced above $200. I just ordered a set.

For anyone wondering about Klevv...

 

[fifasnipe2224]

I left my PC running while it was paused in a game for a bit. When I came back I had a blue screen. 'A critical process has dies.'
The real big issue now is I am getting a blue screen at every start up. The built in Windows 10 diagnostic is not completing correctly, I cannot load any of my previous Restore Points, and I am being told the issue is one drive more than what I have. Let me explain, if I have all four of my drivers in the issue is with Driver "H". If I have only my my driver in (with my OS) the issue is with driver "D".
Also the issue still happens ion safe mode.
Currents I am receiving a simple blue screen stating that Windows had was not able to launch properly with no further details given.
When I try to load from a restore point it tells me their is an issue with a driver. This driver letter is always one more that what I have. So if I have just my C drive then the issue is with my D drive. If I have all four of my drivers in (CDFG) then the issue is with my H drive.

 

[LilJoka]

I left my PC running while it was paused in a game for a bit. When I came back I had a blue screen. 'A critical process has dies.'
The real big issue now is I am getting a blue screen at every start up. The built in Windows 10 diagnostic is not completing correctly, I cannot load any of my previous Restore Points, and I am being told the issue is one drive more than what I have. Let me explain, if I have all four of my drivers in the issue is with Driver "H". If I have only my my driver in (with my OS) the issue is with driver "D".
Also the issue still happens ion safe mode.
Currents I am receiving a simple blue screen stating that Windows had was not able to launch properly with no further details given.
When I try to load from a restore point it tells me their is an issue with a driver. This driver letter is always one more that what I have. So if I have just my C drive then the issue is with my D drive. If I have all four of my drivers in (CDFG) then the issue is with my H drive.

Need more info
Can you boot with just the OS drive and use bsodviewer to check the dump file?

 

[garath]

For anyone following my quest for a new monitor where I debate size vs g-sync in the 1080p space for less than $400, I'm leaning toward skipping g-sync in favor of a feature rich 144hz 27" low latency monitor. Size matters?

I came across this review from Tom's about the benQ xl2720z - currently $360 on amazon.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/benq-xl2720z-gaming-monitor,3809-10.html

It is really encouraging to see it get such high marks.

Can't find a review on the newer viewsonic XG2701 unfortunately. The only thing it would have over the benQ anyways is AMD's freesync.

 

[fifasnipe2224]

Need more info
Can you boot with just the OS drive and use bsodviewer to check the dump file?

Nope. BSOD even with just the OS driver in.

 

[LilJoka]

Nope. BSOD even with just the OS driver in.

Then it's not related to the drive/s.

Does the BSOD give any info itself?

 

[Vaga]

Thoughts on the case? I'm considering buying one

Love it! Before it arrived I didn't expect to like it so much especially the cube shape but once everything was set I can't look away, it's just beautiful, being white with black interior has a lot to do with it. Lots of space, easy to maneuver inside, great airflow and the back compartment is perfect for hassle-free cable management. Side panels are rather flimsy when taken off, also the bottom is open but that can be easily fixed. Other than that feels pretty solid.

 

[Lucky Forward]

Any bargains out there in a low-end desktop PC without a monitor?

My brother and his wife each have their own laptops they use for work and personal stuff, but they're looking for an inexpensive desktop to have in their family room for internet browsing, email, and other light-duty things. I'm giving them an old 23-inch monitor I have lying around. They have no particular interest in gaming.

Are there currently any bargains in the under $400 range? I'd think a 500GB HDD would suffice. Do you think they would need more than 4GB RAM for casual use? Thanks.

 

[kuYuri]

Hi everyone -- I'm looking to build a PC for comfy couch gaming. I'm usually a console gamer because of the simplicity, but the underwhelming performance of games and load times with current gen along with the PS4K announcement are inspiring me to build. I'd like it to be able to use it for at least 2-3 years before I have to upgrade something.

Budget: Not an issue
Main use: Gaming and Plex client (no transcoding). Probably some streaming video (Twitch and so on)
Monitor resolution: will be using a TV. Goals are reliable
SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Single player games with a DS4 or Steam controller, 1080p and 60 fps. Lower res and frame rate not acceptable -- I'll keep using the PS4 otherwise. FAST load times, please.
Looking to reuse any parts? Nope, first build EVER.
When will you build? Doesn't matter, anytime. Although I really want to play Dark Souls III on it soon!
Will you be overclocking? No?

Here's my first attempt:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($51.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.77 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Wired Network Adapter: TP-Link TG-3468 10/100/1000 Mbps PCI-Express x1 Network Adapter ($11.58 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad ($29.69 @ Amazon)
Total: $812.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-12 09:41 EDT-0400

Questions:
- Since the monitor is a TV, I'll never go over 1080p or 60 fps. So is there any reason to wait for the new graphics cards to come out, or is the one I've selected going to be good for a while?
- I'll be using Astro A40s sometimes -- does this mean I'll need a sound card?
- How can this build be the most energy efficient?
- Do I need a disc drive for any real reason?
- All video/audio from this PC will be sent to an A/V receiver, I'm guessing HDMI is the best. Any gotchas here?
- It will be in the living room, so it has to be quiet. It will be in a semi-enclosed cabinet, so additional airflow may be needed? Can I add my own sound dampening to pretty much any case?
- I didn't add a power supply or CPU cooler to the parts list -- doesn't that depend on what case you get, because some of them include it?

If budget is not an issue, why not go for better? For gaming, an i5 processor will be more capable and recommended over an i3. Sure you can get 1080p/60fps in some games with that i3 combined with the above GPU, but an i5 will lead to a better experience with higher minimum and average framerates in games, less occurrence of stutter, and will be more useful for multitasking in Windows. Most games recommend a quad core like the i5 for higher end graphics. Since you're asking for better than console quality graphics, this is what's going to give it to you, along with the chosen GPU. Since you also mentioned streaming, an i7 might even be preferable for even better performance.

I would also recommend up to 16GB of RAM since it also contributes to multitasking and is not that much more compared to 8GB. It will also future proof your system a little more for upcoming games.

The power supplies that are typically included with some cases tend to be of lower quality. It is recommended to get a separate one from a reputable brand, such as EVGA or Corsair, as these are higher quality and are likely to last longer, along with better warranty coverage.

Here's a quick i5 build that I'm recommending, feel free to swap the i5 with an i7 for better performance. I also added the keyboard and wireless card since you had it on your list. I took out the wired card as it's not necessary since the motherboard already comes with a gigabit ethernet port. You can get Windows 10 keys from reddit for like $15 I hear. Optical drives aren't necessary, I personally like having one since I still occasionally use discs and it never hurts to have one. Up to you. One last thing, since you mentioned couch gaming, do you need a small case rather than a mid-tower? I can make adjustments to the build as necessary if so.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($203.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($107.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($88.00 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition w/ Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($105.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.10 @ Mac Mall)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($37.98 @ Mac Mall)
Keyboard: Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad ($32.17 @ Amazon)
Total: $1076.08
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-12 21:26 EDT-0400

 

[fifasnipe2224]

Then it's not related to the drive/s.

Does the BSOD give any info itself?

Here's what I got:https://imgur.com/a/tcVul

 

[Celcius]

Any suggestions on the best monitor for $200 or less? It would be mainly used for office stuff now and then probably 6 months later for some gaming as well, and needs to have hdmi.

I was looking at these 3:
24" 1080p TN 144hz Acer for $191: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KO4518I/?tag=neogaf0e-20

24" 1080p TN 60hz Asus for $149: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058UUR6E/?tag=neogaf0e-20

23" 1080p IPS 60hz Asus for $140: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236288

I've been using a 60 hz TN panel for the past 7 years so I'm not sure if IPS would be worth giving up a little response time and losing 1", or if the 144 hz is worth the 25% higher price tag. Any opinions?

 

[MKAllDay]

I am looking to get a new case. The only real requirements that I have are that it fit an ATX board and that I am able to mount the radiator/two 120mm fans of my Corsair H100i v2 internally on the top of the case (for me, this eliminates options like the NZXT S340 as it only as venting for one fan on top).

I was getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on the Phanteks Enthoo Pro but then the Phanteks Eclipse also appeared to check all the boxes at a lower price.

Does anyone have any reason why I should consider one of these Phanteks products over the other? Additionally, I am still open to other suggestions under $150 as long as they fit the two requirements I mentioned earlier.

 

[fifasnipe2224]

I'd suggest the 144hz option.
Also in regards to my issue: I can still get a command prompt open.