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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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Alright gafferinos, I had a spare mobo lying around, plugged it in and it worked, but it's old with no CPU cooler. I plugged the PSU back into my main and only the mobo connected, it boots up and dies. For sure it's the PSU. Fuck ya.

Well you are making progress and I'm still not sure if the motherboard is fucked. (it could be ofc) Try to boot with a single RAM stick, then the other stick.
 
Thanks for the help, I tried unplugging most things, fans won't even flicker. I think this PSU is garbage.

What do you guys think of this
http://m.canadacomputers.com/mobile/itemid/069556

If that's over kill there's also
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_1238_443&item_id=072476

First one seems like a good deal.

What's the paper clip trick? Am I supposed to see if it electrocutes me
Any objections to this PSU? It's on sale. Any better ones at the site I linked?
 
Sorry what? Here are some more examples. Beyond a certain point the diminishing returns make the difference incredibly negligible. The only time you usually see big performance gains from higher frequency ram is why you're dealing with an underperforming CPU.

gtav.jpg


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Pretty much every site that I can reference shows that beyond 2133 there's very little different in terms of gaming performance. For other things yes there is a more significant difference. Video editing? Go for it! Rendering? Go for it! Compiling? Sure. Compression? Sure. Gaming? It's really not necessary.

Regardless of performance differential there if almost no reason not to go with 3000+ RAM speeds. The price difference is negligible.
 
Hey, I'm back with another dumb question. My power button keeps sticking, because I spilt pop onto the top of the PC right before winter. After I got it back from the repair shop I never thought about it, until winter. I forgot to leave the heat on in my apartment one day of the power button has been sticking ever since. For example, its really hard to press down on now. And even then I'll press on it, it'll light my tower up for a split second and then turn back off. I have to just try my luck until it just decides to stay on.

A guy recommended that I clean it with a Q-tip dunked in a alcohol, but Im afraid that the alcohol will get inside my system and tear it up. Is this really good advice?
 
Regardless of performance differential there if almost no reason not to go with 3000+ RAM speeds. The price difference is negligible.

Heh. Me, I think I'll probably opt for the fastest and best-looking I can get beyond a DDR3-1600 or DDR4-2133 standard fare without ending up paying more than a 20% premium, if you ask me. DDR3-1866 and DDR4-2400 are barely a step up, but you should be able to get RAM with lower latencies than any "standard" part all things considered - and should work fine in pretty much everything. I only consider DDR3-1600/1866/2400 and DDR4-2133/2400/3000 these days, really... Either standard (for motherboards that don't do fast RAM), the "budget" end of OC RAM, or go the whole hog.
 

Dalius

Member
Hey GAF. I'm looking to build a new gaming PC! My PC is hooked up to my TV, so I think I'm going to try to go microATX this time.

Main purposes: gaming. Currently at 1080p, but I'm getting a new TV (most likely 4K) soon so I'd like to be able to play games at that res as well at 60FPS on the highest settings I can get out of my machine. I'll also potentially be doing some video rendering. I'll be using my GTX 970 from my current build & will be upgrading to Pascal for 4K/VR goodness. This is what I've got so far (all prices in $CAD):

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($477.62 @ Canada Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.15 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($105.12 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($117.15 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.16 @ NCIX)
Total: $921.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 02:25 EDT-0400

I've been having trouble deciding on a microATX motherboard and case. The ASUS Z170M-PLUS seems to be the best ASUS option for microATX ( I've been happy with my P8P67 Pro so I've been looking at another ASUS mobo). The ASUS Z170I Pro is a mini-ATX board - is there a point of getting mini over micro? Should I also look at ASRock and Gigabyte? I've read accounts of stability issues with ASRock over the years, and I've had a bad experience with a Gigabyte GPU in the past. For those reasons, I haven't been looking at those brands as much.

For cases, I'm looking for something quiet, nice airflow/cabling options and doesn't scream "I AM GAMER". The Cooler Master N200 has an okay design but some reviews have said it isn't as quiet. While it's not as subtle as I'd like, the Corsair Carbide Air 240 seems to have the cable management and airflow down but also complaints of build quality not being so great considering the price. I've read similar complaints about Fractal Design's microATX cases (although the Fractal Design Node 804 looks kinda nice).

Any comments to help me get over my indecisiveness over mobos and cases, as well as the rest of the specs, would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hey GAF. I'm looking to build a new gaming PC! My PC is hooked up to my TV, so I think I'm going to try to go microATX this time.

Main purposes: gaming. Currently at 1080p, but I'm getting a new TV (most likely 4K) soon so I'd like to be able to play games at that res as well at 60FPS on the highest settings I can get out of my machine. I'll also potentially be doing some video rendering. I'll be using my GTX 970 from my current build & will be upgrading to Pascal for 4K/VR goodness. This is what I've got so far (all prices in $CAD):

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($477.62 @ Canada Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.15 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($105.12 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($117.15 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.15 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($120.16 @ NCIX)
Total: $921.35
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 02:25 EDT-0400

I've been having trouble deciding on a microATX motherboard and case. The ASUS Z170M-PLUS seems to be the best ASUS option for microATX ( I've been happy with my P8P67 Pro so I've been looking at another ASUS mobo). The ASUS Z170I Pro is a mini-ATX board - is there a point of getting mini over micro? Should I also look at ASRock and Gigabyte? I've read accounts of stability issues with ASRock over the years, and I've had a bad experience with a Gigabyte GPU in the past. For those reasons, I haven't been looking at those brands as much.

For cases, I'm looking for something quiet, nice airflow/cabling options and doesn't scream "I AM GAMER". The Cooler Master N200 has an okay design but some reviews have said it isn't as quiet. While it's not as subtle as I'd like, the Corsair Carbide Air 240 seems to have the cable management and airflow down but also complaints of build quality not being so great considering the price. I've read similar complaints about Fractal Design's microATX cases (although the Fractal Design Node 804 looks kinda nice).

Any comments to help me get over my indecisiveness over mobos and cases, as well as the rest of the specs, would be greatly appreciated!

The difference between an i5-6600K and i7-6700K is slight. I think you're better off getting the i5 instead, since you lose not much performance in exchange for massive savings. (And you'll still be able to overclock it, so you might make up the difference anyway!)

CPU cooler looks fine. The bundled thermal paste is just OK for your needs, though the amount is small. If only there is a valid listing for the Cryorig H7 Universal on the Canadian PCPP... If you can get hold of it and it's not too much more expensive than the 212, go for it.

For the motherboard, I don't usually advise a mini-ITX board. Micro-ATX or larger for most computers that don't have a hard size limit, since they're easier to work with and have much better expandability than anything ITX. I'm thinking of a decent motherboard with a Z CPU since you're going for video encodes and things that want all the bandwidth - either this will work for ATX, and the thing you've picked is good for micro-ATX. Do consider if you want SLI in the future - most budget Z170s won't.

That RAM is the cheapest standard-profile DDR4-3000 RAM I can find that I'd buy, so keep the choice. Nice.

As a boot and app/game drive, that SSD seems to be a bit too much for my tastes. Usually, most cheaper, but modern SSDs should do the trick, even if they do poorly in synthetic benchmarks. This Sandisk, Corsair, or Kingston, what I currently use in my desktop should work more than fast enough. Note that the Kingston is probably the only drive in the trio that is MLC memory, but it's also SandForce-based - not that it's a problem, up to preference.

The HDD looks good. 7200RPM of 1TB HDD goodness should be great for pretty much everything, including most games, if you're inclined to install things there.

I'd lose some subtlety for better airflow... if I were you I'd pick the Corsair without hesitation for a micro-ATX case. Same for ATX boxes... just pick the one with the most airflow. It's better for your components :) (Oh, and do consider ease of building, too.)

You can get the RM650x for slightly cheaper, and your computer would still have an overkill PSU. They just upgraded the RMx warranty to 10 freaking years, and component quality inside is undoubtedly superior to the standard RM, which happen to have half the warranty and some not-so-good design choices instead.

Anyway, I've arrived at this. See what you like/don't like :)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($304.00 @ Amazon Canada)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($37.15 @ Vuugo)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($138.49 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($104.99 @ Canada Computers)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.25 @ shopRBC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (Purchased For $0.00)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.98 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.98 @ NCIX)
Total: $919.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 03:10 EDT-0400
 

LilJoka

Member
A PC in your home theatre setup should really be ITX. It's very unlikely you would utilise ATX expandability and similarily with mATX.

I have a lot more wattage than the above rig in a Fractal Node 304 with an ITX setup and don't have any cooling issues.

ITX builds take a little longer to build since you have to be a bit clever with cabling routing, which can mean trying various paths to get the optimum, but nothing more.

The advice in the above post was correct about 3/4 years ago in terms of cases/airflow.

Asus Z170I pro gamer is an awesome board.
 
A PC in your home theatre setup should really be ITX. It's very unlikely you would utilise ATX expandability and similarily with mATX.

I have a lot more wattage than the above rig in a Fractal Node 304 with an ITX setup and don't have any cooling issues.

ITX builds take a little longer to build since you have to be a bit clever with cabling routing, which can mean trying various paths to get the optimum, but nothing more.

The advice in the above post was correct about 3/4 years ago in terms of cases/airflow.

I'm not even sure if he'd be fine with an ITX rig, to be honest. Not a fan of these if it's going to be your primary PC. They can work, but usually expect a premium, and all the things that come with things being, well, small.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm not even sure if he'd be fine with an ITX rig, to be honest. Not a fan of these if it's going to be your primary PC. They can work, but usually expect a premium, and all the things that come with things being, well, small.

Depends on the ITX case. RVZ01 would need an SFX PSU that would drive up costs. But something like the Fractal Node 304 fits ATX PSUs.

You can fit a lot in a Node 304, I was considering a X99 ITX, 5820K, 16GB ram, GTX 980Ti, RM650x. That's more than enough for a primary PC. In this case, the board would command a premium compared to other ITX boards, but it means you can have a small PC for a very long time, which to me when in the lounge next to my Home theatre setup is more desirable.

Depends on what OP considers priority, if noise and size are a concern, go ITX. A system with multiple HDDs and GPUs will be noisy, something ITX doesn't cater for anyway.
 
Depends on the ITX case. RVZ01 would need an SFX PSU that would drive up costs. But something like the Fractal Node 304 fits ATX PSUs.

You can fit a lot in a Node 304, I was considering a X99 ITX, 5820K, 16GB ram, GTX 980Ti, RM650x. That's more than enough for a primary PC. In this case, the board would command a premium compared to other ITX boards, but it means you can have a small PC for a very long time, which to me when in the lounge next to my Home theatre setup is more desirable.

Depends on what OP considers priority, if noise and size are a concern, go ITX. A system with multiple HDDs and GPUs will be noisy, something ITX doesn't cater for anyway.

I guess we'll have to wait and see for OP's wants... I've always thought that size is secondary to everything else if there's no hard limit.
 

HowZatOZ

Banned
390X will still pack a punch, AMD cards age like fine wine. It's just your money is likely to get you so much more, since everything they've said about Polaris suggests they're going to be very aggressive with performance per dollar.
I can definitely see the lure of Polaris and whatever Nvidia have going but I'm starting to struggle with games and I'm interested in stopping that gap with a card I won't have to upgrade for sometime. I would definitely prefer moving to a fwb 2 or even 3 HBM2 card rather then the first batch.
Its s current card, you wont have an issue.
Sounds good, thanks for the help!
 

Firthy

Member
Hello! Long time Mac user here who is looking to build their first PC!

I would massively appreciate any help and guidance towards finding the parts best suitable to my needs, I have completed the questions from the OP and hope that this will enable you to get a good understanding of what I am looking for :)

Your Current Specs: This is my first PC, i’m currently using an i5 Late 2014 Macbook Pro as my main system.
Budget: I’m looking to spend around the £600 mark on the tower itself, monitors and accessories not included (UK)
Main Use: Photoshop daily for business, i’m a console gamer but would be looking to pick up some cheap games in the Steam sales etc, video editing. Must be (at least) dual screen capable.
Monitor Resolution: I will be buying two new monitors (dual screen), I have been looking at the Benq RL2455HM 24” as I would also be looking to use it for PS4 on occasion, but I am open to all suggestions!
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Photoshop absolutely must be able to run well, i’d like to be able to play games at PS4-level (LEGO worlds is one the kids are wanting to play, and i’ll be giving the PC it’s fair share too)
Looking to reuse any parts?: None.
When will you build?: ASAP, however it is my first build so will be using the video guide in the OP
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

I really like the look of the NZXT S340 case and would love to use it for my build, but it is not essential. I will also be looking for a nice quality keyboard and mouse if anyone has any suggestions that would be suitable for the type of use I require.

EDIT: Here is a pre-built tower I was originally looking to buy, could this suit my needs just fine or am I better looking to build one from scratch? http://www.ebuyer.com/735893-zoostorm-gaming-desktop-pc-7260-5191

Many thanks for all your help in advance, this is a whole new world to me!

Luke
 
Hello! Long time Mac user here who is looking to build their first PC!

I would massively appreciate any help and guidance towards finding the parts best suitable to my needs, I have completed the questions from the OP and hope that this will enable you to get a good understanding of what I am looking for :)

Your Current Specs: This is my first PC, i’m currently using an i5 Late 2014 Macbook Pro as my main system.
Budget: I’m looking to spend around the £600 mark on the tower itself, monitors and accessories not included (UK)
Main Use: Photoshop daily for business, i’m a console gamer but would be looking to pick up some cheap games in the Steam sales etc, video editing. Must be (at least) dual screen capable.
Monitor Resolution: I will be buying two new monitors (dual screen), I have been looking at the Benq RL2455HM 24” as I would also be looking to use it for PS4 on occasion, but I am open to all suggestions!
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Photoshop absolutely must be able to run well, i’d like to be able to play games at PS4-level (LEGO worlds is one the kids are wanting to play, and i’ll be giving the PC it’s fair share too)
Looking to reuse any parts?: None.
When will you build?: ASAP, however it is my first build so will be using the video guide in the OP
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

I really like the look of the NZXT S340 case and would love to use it for my build, but it is not essential. I will also be looking for a nice quality keyboard and mouse if anyone has any suggestions that would be suitable for the type of use I require.

EDIT: Here is a pre-built tower I was originally looking to buy, could this suit my needs just fine or am I better looking to build one from scratch? http://www.ebuyer.com/735893-zoostorm-gaming-desktop-pc-7260-5191

Many thanks for all your help in advance, this is a whole new world to me!

Luke

The linked model seems good-looking, but the power supply is the big unknown. Same for the motherboard. Without further knowledge, I'm not too sure on it.

So, basically, just enough video card to have at least something close to 2 Xbox Ones in processing power, and more stuff leaning on the CPU and RAM, while staying within a rather strict budget?

This is the best I could come up with for you, assuming UK pricing and ATX case.

Note that you won't be able to overclock your CPU beyond the max turbo with this CPU and motherboard combination. For overclocking, you want a 6600K/6700K and a Z170 motherboard. Do note that a Z170 motherboard will also allow you to use RAM at speeds faster than DDR4-2133 at their rated speeds.

I'm going to suggest a GTX 950 for your needs, as it should be more than enough GPU there for PS4-level gaming on your desktop, outside of shoddy port jobs.

First one, the "budget" build, with cost as a major concern. Things are just done to "have it work", especially with the RAM being just a stick of 8GB, so a big memory bandwidth penalty (though usually not a problem).
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz Quad-Core Processor (£152.99 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£45.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory (£25.12 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£44.98 @ Dabs)
Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£55.69 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 950 2GB Video Card (£119.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H24 ATX Mid Tower Case (£31.22 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£36.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £512.97
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 10:09 BST+0100

The second, for allowing overclocking. Cost is less of a concern on the CPU, cooler, motherboard, or power supply. Also went and made the GPU a GTX 960 4GB, but now we're significantly over budget, most of the blame being on the CPU, cooler, better motherboard, and the resulting upgrade on the PSU.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£200.99 @ Ebuyer)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (£26.49 @ Ebuyer)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£86.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (£31.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£44.98 @ Dabs)
Storage: Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£55.69 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card (£178.63 @ More Computers)
Case: Thermaltake Versa H24 ATX Mid Tower Case (£31.22 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£75.07 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £732.05
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-11 10:12 BST+0100

Feel free to change any part if you have a brand preference or something, so long as it's around the same performance/quality level.
 

catabarez

Member
Hey guys!

So I'm looking to upgrade my RAM to 2x8GB @ 2400 from my G.Skill Ripjaws 2x4GB @ 1333. The problem is that my Hyper 212 Evo covers the first slot and I want to be sure that the new RAM won't be too tall for the cooler. What should I get that is about the same size as my old RAM?
 
Hey guys!

So I'm looking to upgrade my RAM to 2x8GB @ 2400 from my G.Skill Ripjaws 2x4GB @ 1333. The problem is that my Hyper 212 Evo covers the first slot and I want to be sure that the new RAM won't be too tall for the cooler. What should I get that is about the same size as my old RAM?

Sounds nice! Though, gotta ask: DDR3, right? And what's the CPU and motherboard involved?

Either way, the possible options for standard-height DDR3-2400 are slim pickings, but among them, this, this, and this seems to be the best fit. (Heh, AMD sells memory...)
 
I got one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571

Looks like it only supports up to 2133.

Looks good, then. I'm only concerned when the limit is a low number, like DDR3-1333 or 1600.

That might be a validation limit (speeds higher than that aren't officially supported, but might work), but it could also be a hard limit. Either way, if you do get DDR3-2400 RAM and it somehow doesn't work at its rated speed, at least you should still be able to get it running at DDR3-2133 (usually RAM operates on the worst part of the entire system - chipset/motherboard and RAM considered.)

Real DDR3-2133 memory are comparatively overpriced, even on an absolute basis - since you can get DDR3-2400 for cheaper, might as well just buy a DDR3-2400. For best value it'd be the G.Skill I've linked there...
 

thenexus6

Member
Eh, I went into bios and changed CPU to silent and its basically no different to my ears. I guess I just have to get used to it.

Another thing I want to ask about is having more than one hard drive.

I have a 120GB SSD which I installed the OS and some programs. That is all fine.

I put a 1TB in for files and games. I went into settings and changed everythings location to B:. But the drive is really messy.. My SSD has "program files" and "prorgramfiles(x86)" folders, while my 1TB is just all random.

Another thing with the 1TB. I also purchased an album on iTunes, went into music and searched the music folder - no results.. I had to click on B: - search - then it showed up. So have I set something wrong up here?

I took screenshots in case none of this makes any sense! http://imgur.com/a/eWKVd
 

e90Mark

Member
Hey, I'm back with another dumb question. My power button keeps sticking, because I spilt pop onto the top of the PC right before winter. After I got it back from the repair shop I never thought about it, until winter. I forgot to leave the heat on in my apartment one day of the power button has been sticking ever since. For example, its really hard to press down on now. And even then I'll press on it, it'll light my tower up for a split second and then turn back off. I have to just try my luck until it just decides to stay on.

A guy recommended that I clean it with a Q-tip dunked in a alcohol, but Im afraid that the alcohol will get inside my system and tear it up. Is this really good advice?
This is what I was going to suggest when I read the first couple sentences. It will be fine, if you use something like 99% isopropyl.

Ideally, you'd take off the panel with the switch and clean the front and back of the switch.
 
PC Gaf, I need some assistance.

I'm trying to find some simple black PSU cable kits. I do not know how to sleeve my own cables. CableMod makes some nice ones, but they don't seem to be compatible with my PSU for whatever reason. (I don't know why honestly, maybe someone can help me there)

Anyone know of a place to find some nice sleeved cables for a Thermaltake 1250w PSU? Thermaletake does offer cables, but they don't offer black/black for whatever reason, and that's really what I want.
 
Build was a success. Now to overclock this thing.

What have people been able to get upto with their 6600K's?

I've heard that about 4.5-4.8 is a good target. Start from the max single core turbo + 100 MHz, and work your way up from there. Keep an eye on the voltages and temps - you don't want to end up overvolting like crazy just to get a stable CPU, and at some point the CPU is gonna throttle or error out.

So basically, up the multiplier, run relevant stability and stress tests until something goes wrong:
If error/crash, add more voltage
If over temp/throttle, reduce voltage (if auto voltage)
If persistently errors out when you add voltage to the point of overtemp, back off 100 MHz. The last level is the stable point, I think.

Most of it is in the CPU silicon lottery and the cooling available, though the motherboard and PSU also has some influence.

Man, all this overclocking talk makes me wish I had an i5-4690K, i7-4790K, or either of the Broadwell CPUs... I mean, the 4590 is still too fast for anything I can throw at it, but it sounds fun to OC.
 

Flintty

Member
A quick noob question about graphics cards (low end).

I currently have a Geforce GT 630 4GB DDR3 but have a spare GT 730 1GB DDR5 in the house. The simple part of me thinks my current one is better because of the memory but the other part thinks the 730 will be better because it's DDR5 and has more cuda cores (I think).

Help pls, GAF :)
 

LordAlu

Member
PC Gaf, I need some assistance.

I'm trying to find some simple black PSU cable kits. I do not know how to sleeve my own cables. CableMod makes some nice ones, but they don't seem to be compatible with my PSU for whatever reason. (I don't know why honestly, maybe someone can help me there)

Anyone know of a place to find some nice sleeved cables for a Thermaltake 1250w PSU? Thermaletake does offer cables, but they don't offer black/black for whatever reason, and that's really what I want.
It seems like there aren't any third-party ones available, so the next best thing would be to go for sleeved extensions, like this BitFenix Alchemy ATX extension:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...2493056&cm_re=bitfenix-_-12-493-056-_-Product

This way you can just have the nice sleeved extension bit showing so it'll look nice, whilst using the original connection to the PSU.

I'd also recommend getting some cable combs. They're pretty cheap and they line up your wires nice and straight, e.g.

HTB1qHfcIFXXXXXGXXXXq6xXFXXXG.jpg


A quick noob question about graphics cards (low end).

I currently have a Geforce GT 630 4GB DDR3 but have a spare GT 730 1GB DDR5 in the house. The simple part of me thinks my current one is better because of the memory but the other part thinks the 730 will be better because it's DDR5 and has more cuda cores (I think).

Help pls, GAF :)
The GT 730 outperforms the GT 630 quite a bit, and the extra VRAM will make little difference at the low-end as you're hitting the limits of the card itself long before the limits of the memory. Unless you're doing something that requires large amounts of VRAM like heavy gaming or rendering (for which I'd expect you'd have gotten a much better card in the first place) then the GT 730 is the one I'd use.
 
A quick noob question about graphics cards (low end).

I currently have a Geforce GT 630 4GB DDR3 but have a spare GT 730 1GB DDR5 in the house. The simple part of me thinks my current one is better because of the memory but the other part thinks the 730 will be better because it's DDR5 and has more cuda cores (I think).

Help pls, GAF :)

Most games will use up more than 1gb of gpu ram, so I would go with the 4gb card.
 

Flintty

Member
It seems like there aren't any third-party ones available, so the next best thing would be to go for sleeved extensions, like this BitFenix Alchemy ATX extension:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...2493056&cm_re=bitfenix-_-12-493-056-_-Product

This way you can just have the nice sleeved extension bit showing so it'll look nice, whilst using the original connection to the PSU.

I'd also recommend getting some cable combs. They're pretty cheap and they line up your wires nice and straight, e.g.

HTB1qHfcIFXXXXXGXXXXq6xXFXXXG.jpg



The GT 730 outperforms the GT 630 quite a bit, and the extra VRAM will make little difference at the low-end as you're hitting the limits of the card itself long before the limits of the memory. Unless you're doing something that requires large amounts of VRAM like heavy gaming or rendering (for which I'd expect you'd have gotten a much better card in the first place) then the GT 730 is the one I'd use.

Thanks. It's not for high end gaming at all. Marvel Heroes, Trove, Minecraft. Basic stuff :)
 
Any objections to this PSU? It's on sale. Any better ones at the site I linked?

i'm surprised no one's responded to you yet, but either of those are very good for the specs you listed. i'd lean toward the 750 B2 if you aren't overly anal about 80 PLUS ratings, just because it's $20 less for not much actual loss in PSU performance
 

THE:MILKMAN

Member
Anyone have a time frame for when the mid range/bang for buck Pascal/Polaris cards will be out?

Just checked HWinfo and my new i5 rig is running 19/20C temps (room temp basically) and barely using 25W browsing the net.

Really need a GPU to put it through its paces and am already inpatient for these new GPUs.
 

garath

Member
Looking to splurge a little on a great gaming monitor. I currently have a halfway decent 24" 1080p 60hz TN panel that gets the job done but I'd like to get something better without breaking the budget.

Preferences:

-144hz
-24-27"
-1080p
-$400 or less. Less the better.
-G-sync

I have:

i5 2500k @ 4.3
970
16gigs RAM

I can find some great 144hz viewsonic and benQ 27" monitors with freesync for $300-350 but I have nvidia so would like gsync.

As much as I'd like 27", best I've found in the budget is this Acer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C05C1OK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thoughts?

I'm in the US btw.
 
I'm looking to convert my existing desktop that I built 5 or 6 years ago (hard to recall at this point, but I built it when the i5 2500k first came out) into a low profile entertainment center PC.

I've been looking into small form factor ATX cases, but am having trouble finding one that I can guarantee will fit my heatsink and video card, listed below:

Video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127565
Heat sink: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Am I barking up the wrong tree here trying to find a case that will fit both of those but is also pretty low profile? Something a little bit smaller than an Xbox One is all I'm really looking for.
 

BryanGT

Member
Looking to splurge a little on a great gaming monitor. I currently have a halfway decent 24" 1080p 60hz TN panel that gets the job done but I'd like to get something better without breaking the budget.

Preferences:

-144hz
-24-27"
-1080p
-$400 or less. Less the better.
-G-sync

I have:

i5 2500k @ 4.3
970
16gigs RAM

I can find some great 144hz viewsonic and benQ 27" monitors with freesync for $300-350 but I have nvidia so would like gsync.

As much as I'd like 27", best I've found in the budget is this Acer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C05C1OK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thoughts?

I'm in the US btw.

Can you wait a month and pony up for the 27"? I have a similar setup with the ASUS RoG Swift and it's one of the best pieces of hardware I've ever owned. I got an open-box model from Newegg and it was much cheaper that way.
 

garath

Member
Can you wait a month and pony up for the 27"? I have a similar setup with the ASUS RoG Swift and it's one of the best pieces of hardware I've ever owned. I got an open-box model from Newegg and it was much cheaper that way.

There's a 27" version of the Acer coming? I can wait for sure but I really don't want to break $400 if I can avoid it. It's a little frustrating because the freesync competitors is much more affordable than g-sync. :(
 
I'm thinking about buying a new video card for Dark Souls 3. What's the best/cheapest 970 or 980 I could get?

I'm worried my processor might be too old as well. It's an I5-3570k 3.4 ghz If DS can run on this I won't bother replacing it.

Thanks.
 

Lebneney

Banned
Hey PC GAF, which is the better graphics card? The GTX 970 or the AMD R9 390? And which variant should I buy?

Disclaimer: I am familiar with computer terminology, but I don't understand the various choices on Amazon.
 

Aruarian Reflection

Chauffeur de la gdlk
Anybody familiar with Lightroom performance? I notice that my system chugs a bit with these huge 42 megapixel RAW files. I am running a 2011 system with i5 2500k, 8 GB RAM and a weak graphics card GTX 460. Would upgrading the CPU and RAM to 2016 parts do much to improve photo editing performance? (already planning on upgrading to Pascal for VR)
 
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