Nope. Put pea size on CPU, attache the heatsinks and the thermal paste should spread overtime due to pressure.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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Nope. Put pea size on CPU, attache the heatsinks and the thermal paste should spread overtime due to pressure.
Vinterbird
Member
What's the most idiot proof guide to overclocking a CPU? Been reading the guide in the OP, and I'm confident I'll burn my house down if I venture into that.
Has any motherboard manufacturer built something for idiots that just want things to work, or is it a sizeable time investment if I want to prolong the useage of my CPU by overclocking it?
Has any motherboard manufacturer built something for idiots that just want things to work, or is it a sizeable time investment if I want to prolong the useage of my CPU by overclocking it?
I'm totally fine with that. I can update my GPU, but that'll probably tap me out for the time being. Can't swing for a new CPU too. Thanks.
MikeE21286
Member
That's what I meant, I just worded it poorly. Thanks!
What CPU?
Vinterbird
Member
2nd Generation Intel Core? i5 2500K 3.30GHz Socket LGA1155 - Retail.
MikeE21286
Member
what motherboard do you have?
I have a good video I can link you to if you have an ASUS board. I had never Oc'd a CPU successfully before I followed the video and went from stock to 4.4ghz with absolutely no issues.
Download Prime95 for CPU stress testing.
Download CPUz to monitor VCore (CPU Voltage) and speed.
Download Reatemp for CPU temps.
Find starting VCore:
Open Prime95 and CPUz
In Prime95 select to run a small fft torture test.
In CPUz record the peak Vcore in the first 10 seconds or so.
Set static Vcore:
Go into BIOS
Set Vcore to the the recorded Voltage from CPUz + 0.02v.
Find the Load Line Calibration (LLC) for the CPU and set to Medium/Middle level.
Boot into Windows, open CPUz, record the idle Vcore.
Open Prime95 and run the Small FFT test again.
Note the Vcore in CPUz.
Firstly, you want the idle vcore to be just above the load vcore. A higher LLC will mean cause the load vcore to go above the idle, and a lower LLC will allow the idle vcore to be higher than load vcore. Adjust the LLC level such that the idle vcore is above the load vcore, whilst using the highest LLC level you can.
Now we can begin.
Go into the BIOS, set the CPU Multiplier to 40 for 40x100Mhz = 4000Mhz or 4Ghz. 100Mhz is referring to the bclk. If the bclk is AUTO, set to 100Mhz.
See if it boots, if not raise the Vcore 0.02v.
If it boots, see if you can run 10mins Prime95 Small FFTs.
Now balance the temperatures/Vcore/CPU Multipler such that you dont exceed 1.4v CPU Vcore or 75c whilst running Prime95.
If temps are low, and Vcore is less than 1.4v, then try for a faster speed. Otherwise back off, or try a bit more Vcore for the same speed if you get an error/BSOD.
Once you find a good speed to aim for, its time to test it for properly.
Open Prime95, select Blend, enter the Memory to test as 2000Mb less than installed. Start the test. Run for as long as you like, i tend to run for a few hours.
If you notice temps are too high, abort the run and either reduce the Multiplier and Vcore and try to stabilise a lower frequency.
If Prime95 errors or you get a BSOD, increase Vcore if temps allow. Otherwise reduce the CPU Multiplier and aim for a lower OC.
Test until you found the lowest Vcore required for your OC whilst maintaining Prime95 stability.
Record the load Vcore from CPUz.
Once thats done, you can work on offset Vcore.
Here you insert an Offset to be applied to what the Mobo thinks the CPU requires in terms of Vcore for that speed.
Start with a +0.00v offset and then check the Vcore with Prime95 small FFT in CPUz.
Adjust the offset such that the load Vcore matches what you finished with in your stable prime95 test.
Vinterbird
Member
I have a Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P Intel Z68
Thanks. Will read through and give it a go!
trailmix16
Member
want to keep this one small. anyone have any suggestions for upgrades or does it look ok? im just going to be playing steam games.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.89 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.79 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($32.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $754.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 09:36 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.89 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.79 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB NITRO Dual-X OC Video Card ($179.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case ($32.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $754.51
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 09:36 EDT-0400
OkayRene
Member
Re-posting my PSU question from last night.
Don't see any issue with going with that PSU.
Looks fine. Only thing I would consider is going with the Node 304 and a compatible PSU, but that's only if you have some money to spare.
I'm looking at possibly getting a new computer for gaming this fall. I want to play Civ VI on it and my current laptop won't do. I'm thinking of getting a Steam Machine because I'm not into building my own and I don't need it to be a performance beast. I don't have anywhere for a dedicated PC to go except under my TV so it can't look like a PC. For these reasons, I thought a Steam Machine was the right thing for me.
1. Are we going to get new Steam Machines by October?
2. I don't need it to be a beast but I don't want it to be bare-bones either. What should I upgrade on a Steam Machine to make it better for games (especially games like Civ)?
1. Are we going to get new Steam Machines by October?
2. I don't need it to be a beast but I don't want it to be bare-bones either. What should I upgrade on a Steam Machine to make it better for games (especially games like Civ)?
roadrunn3r
Member
Any particular reason you aren't considering Skylake? A 6600K (if you are going to overclock) + high freq. DDR4 is a very noticeable upgrade from what you have. If money isn't an issue, an i7 6700K is the obvious choice and should give you an advantage over the i5 in some situations but overall the i5 is perfectly fine for gaming.
Depends on the Steam machine specs (usually you can upgrade the GPU) but if CIV VI is all you want to play, you shouldn't worry much. Civ has never been exactly a game with heavy requirements so even a used cheap Alienware Alpha should be fine.
I don't know much about processors. What's Skylake?
The 6700k isn't entirely out of my budget range, but considering I would have to purchase a new motherboard as well, the i5 4690K is at the sweet spot.
petran79
Banned
I was considering this CPU too but I had already 12 GB of 1600 MHZ DDR3 RAM, so it would be a waste without DDR4. So I decided to go for the i7 4790k instead
roadrunn3r
Member
The 4690K is haswell architecture, 6600K is the i5 equivalent of the newer Intel generation which is Skylake. There's no reason to choose an older platform unless you are getting at a much lower cost (which you don't seem to).
If the 4690K is your sweet spot, then the 6600K (skylake) is what you should go for. Are you going to overclock?
Yup, that's a good reason so it's fine.
Excellent. Thanks for the quick reply!
When talking about Prime95 temps, do people generally refer to the max temp one core reaches or the average between the cores?
Ah I see. The i5-6600K is £10 more than the 4690K on Amazon so it would be well worth spending the extra. I'm not looking to overclock at the moment but never say never!
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it
Max on a single core for me. Down to the user but this is safer.
roadrunn3r
Member
Ah I see. The i5-6600K is £10 more than the 4690K on Amazon so it would be well worth spending the extra. I'm not looking to overclock at the moment but never say never!
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it
Consider something like this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£197.96 @ More Computers)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£26.99 @ Novatech)
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£99.38 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£69.46 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£51.87 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £445.66
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 17:30 BST+0100
You have to add the graphics card and I suppose you already have a case and storage which you can reuse. If you are going to buy a graphics card, don't do it now cause the new generation is out in about a month.
Wow thanks! I notice the motherboard is a micro-ATX, would it fit in a standard sized case?
The previous instructions are too complicated for something so simple.
Just keep in mind to stay under 80C and max 1.35V core voltage.
1) Download HWinfo, to monitor CPU temps and core voltage, and Prime95, for stress testing.
2) In the Bios, set core voltage = MANUAL and enter 1.350V,
3) Start by entering a multiplier that increases the CPU speed to 4.0GHz which 99% of CPUs can at the voltage entered.
4) Enter Windows. Run HWinfo in "Sensor only mode." Now, test with Prime 95 small fft for about 15 min. If Prime 95 has no errors and temps are staying <80C. Continue.
5) Keep on increasing the multiplier by 1 and repeat #4 until it fails.
6) Once it fails, whether due to Windows crash, Prime errors and/or too high temps, go down 1 multiplier. Test for a few hours. If everything passes, that is your best OC speed for your setup. You can stop here if you want.
Now, if you want, you can work on lowering your core voltage, which also lowers the CPU temps, and/or use CPU Core OFFSET instead of MANUAL, which allows the CPU to use less voltages while idling.
To lower voltage:
A) Keep on decreasing the core voltage by .010 and test 15 min with Prime95. So, decrease 1.350V to 1.340V, 1.340V to 1.330V and etc. until it fails.
B) Increase voltage by .005V until it passes. Then, run for a few hours. Add more voltage if needed.
C) Now, you should have the best voltage number for you OC speed.
To work on OFFSET:
A) Start with + 0.050. Run HWinfo and Prime95. Look at the core voltage. The number will probably be different from what you found in #C.
B) So, you need to go back into the Bios, adjust + or - number to come to the correct amount. You will have to mess around a few times before you get a general feel on how much to add or subtract.
Just keep in mind to stay under 80C and max 1.35V core voltage.
1) Download HWinfo, to monitor CPU temps and core voltage, and Prime95, for stress testing.
2) In the Bios, set core voltage = MANUAL and enter 1.350V,
3) Start by entering a multiplier that increases the CPU speed to 4.0GHz which 99% of CPUs can at the voltage entered.
4) Enter Windows. Run HWinfo in "Sensor only mode." Now, test with Prime 95 small fft for about 15 min. If Prime 95 has no errors and temps are staying <80C. Continue.
5) Keep on increasing the multiplier by 1 and repeat #4 until it fails.
6) Once it fails, whether due to Windows crash, Prime errors and/or too high temps, go down 1 multiplier. Test for a few hours. If everything passes, that is your best OC speed for your setup. You can stop here if you want.
Now, if you want, you can work on lowering your core voltage, which also lowers the CPU temps, and/or use CPU Core OFFSET instead of MANUAL, which allows the CPU to use less voltages while idling.
To lower voltage:
A) Keep on decreasing the core voltage by .010 and test 15 min with Prime95. So, decrease 1.350V to 1.340V, 1.340V to 1.330V and etc. until it fails.
B) Increase voltage by .005V until it passes. Then, run for a few hours. Add more voltage if needed.
C) Now, you should have the best voltage number for you OC speed.
To work on OFFSET:
A) Start with + 0.050. Run HWinfo and Prime95. Look at the core voltage. The number will probably be different from what you found in #C.
B) So, you need to go back into the Bios, adjust + or - number to come to the correct amount. You will have to mess around a few times before you get a general feel on how much to add or subtract.
roadrunn3r
Member
Micro-ATX motherboards are fine even with ATX cases and for most people there's no real reason to get ATX motherboards anymore IMHO. Of course if you have a valid reason, just swap that for an ATX one which should be similar price wise.
Also you are welcome but no need to thank me, that's what this thread is for.
I have a old pc but can never get a stable oc with the 2600k i7, I tried ajdusting with auto letting the mb deal with the voltage and manually changing the voltage. I have it at auto and changed the clock speed of the cpu to 42 since that works the longest, anyone have suggestions? My mb is a gigabite GA-Z68XP-UD3P with a H100 cooler. I don't now what I'm doing in the bios.
man tried out my first 144hz monitor from benq (TN panel) and i think i'll have to return it
sometimes i like to sit high up on my chair on the edge if im doing something im excited about, and sometimes i like to lean back, slouched a bit when im tired
just doing that i can see some color shift, and idk if im just used to my old monitors colors but i find them really washed out on the BenQ, and thats with trying several different color profiles, calibration settings, etc.
man, it's absolutely killer in game though. that 144hz smoothness is so beautiful, but apparently my card doesnt downclock anymore at 144hz, have to set it to 120hz for it do so when im not gaming.
gonna stick with IPS from now on, but i can see why people love it so much. its like playing on a CRT it's so fast.
sometimes i like to sit high up on my chair on the edge if im doing something im excited about, and sometimes i like to lean back, slouched a bit when im tired
just doing that i can see some color shift, and idk if im just used to my old monitors colors but i find them really washed out on the BenQ, and thats with trying several different color profiles, calibration settings, etc.
man, it's absolutely killer in game though. that 144hz smoothness is so beautiful, but apparently my card doesnt downclock anymore at 144hz, have to set it to 120hz for it do so when im not gaming.
gonna stick with IPS from now on, but i can see why people love it so much. its like playing on a CRT it's so fast.
There are 144hz IPS monitors, but they are pricey.
Max temp reach by any core. On Intel CPUs, usually, 1 core will be 3-5C higher than the rest.
Only reason to setup LLC first is to avoid problems with offset vcore later.
Im a Manatee
Member
Silly question:
I already have a Hyper212 Evo on my 4790k. If I upgrade to an H100i/H80i, can i use the Hyper212 backplate? It would save me a lot of effort.
I already have a Hyper212 Evo on my 4790k. If I upgrade to an H100i/H80i, can i use the Hyper212 backplate? It would save me a lot of effort.
Hey guys, currently running 2x4GB Dual Channel kit, if I were to put a different dual channel kit, say a 2x8GB with different latency/timings, on the other pair of slots should I expect any trouble? From what I know if the new kit is higher clock it will run at the slower speed, that shouldn't be a problem. But I'm worried about potential mem timings across channels or other issues. So basically: is there an upgrade path for a 2nd different kit without throwing out the original one?
Itll work fine, just run them at the slowest and loosest timings of all the DIMMS.
Frankfurter
Member
You might just wanna hang on for a bit more. Chances you'll get a significantly better card in just a couple of weeks.
One more question since I don't yet have said second kit, and so can get informed meanwhile. Can you just use the XMP of the kit with higher timings and have it apply on the other or will it require tinkering with the values manually (which shouldn't be hard if it boils down to entering numbers by hand)?
Hoping my friends on GAF can help recommend me a monitor (perhaps more updated ones than the OP offers).
This won't strictly be for gaming, so I'm not looking for any 144 Hz monitors and the like.
Here's my criteria:
- 2560x1440 or 2560x1080
- Preferably 27 inches
- IPS
- Wide port selection
- Excellent color gamut
I have no clue how much I'm willing to spend so I'm open to suggestions. I was looking at various Dell and BenQ monitors but it's been a while since I've went monitor shopping so I'm not sure who makes the best displays these days.
This won't strictly be for gaming, so I'm not looking for any 144 Hz monitors and the like.
Here's my criteria:
- 2560x1440 or 2560x1080
- Preferably 27 inches
- IPS
- Wide port selection
- Excellent color gamut
I have no clue how much I'm willing to spend so I'm open to suggestions. I was looking at various Dell and BenQ monitors but it's been a while since I've went monitor shopping so I'm not sure who makes the best displays these days.
Never tried XMP in such a scenario. I would be doing this manually, its just the primary timings, frequency and ram voltage.
The best way to do it would be manually entering the setting before installing the ram. Then itll boot up next time with the best compatibility.
Those have different sockets (take different CPU lines), x99 takes Haswell-E, high end, more cores CPU. Z170 (or typically other mother boards with "1XX" in the name) are Skylake motherboards. None with as many physical cores as Haswell-E (yet?). Should be enough for video games. And probably better with heat/power consumption.
Thanks for all the help.
I just got great PC case for little less than 50€, perfect replacement for my current basic one that has very little space for GPU.
It is called "MS Industrial Black Widow" in my country [although it also goes under the names of iTek Sylent 07 in Italy and Sama Black Widow in others], Chinese case but very well made. It comes with very sleek design, sound proof panels, 3 preinstaled fans [with fan controller for off, low and high speeds], dust covers on all intakes, and tons of place for cable management. Only 2 slots for 3.5" HDDs, but that's enough for me [SSD + 3TB WD].
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9FLSDthVdI
It is really great bang for the buck.
It is called "MS Industrial Black Widow" in my country [although it also goes under the names of iTek Sylent 07 in Italy and Sama Black Widow in others], Chinese case but very well made. It comes with very sleek design, sound proof panels, 3 preinstaled fans [with fan controller for off, low and high speeds], dust covers on all intakes, and tons of place for cable management. Only 2 slots for 3.5" HDDs, but that's enough for me [SSD + 3TB WD].
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9FLSDthVdI
It is really great bang for the buck.
I recommend this one here.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VBNQJKU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It's pretty good for the price.
Shop around, you might find it for cheaper.
BoboBrazil
Member
Where are the 4k 120 or 144hz monitors?
legendaryskitch
Member
So I have a 770 now and I'm debating updating to a 1080. However I'm not sure if I should get a new monitor first or the card. I have a 8 year old monitor that's 1050 60hz and a 1080p tv that I use now. Seems like a GTX 1080 is definitely overkill at 1080p (ironically) should I get a 1440 144hz Gsync monitor first?
Most I saw mentioned is 4K75. Dunno if they are even available for sale.
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