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[MR ARCADE FOREVER]

Hi guys,
Do you recommend buying an anti-virus software?I only got windows defender on my computer.Any recommendations?

 

[Daffy Duck]

So do these temps seem too high for an I5-4690k at stock speeds with an aftermarket cooler?

I just tried the Battlfront Beta and the highest temp from CPUID measured 67oc the other temps on the other cores ranged from 60 to 66.

I was running at ultra at 1900x1200 on a 980Ti.
l
It's just this is the first demanding game I've ran since building the system, normal temps are around 30 and it's just dropped instantly when I left the game down to the low 30's like it normally is.

I also just had steam running and CPUID that was it, no browsers open.

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

Hi guys,
Do you recommend buying an anti-virus software?I only got windows defender on my computer.Any recommendations?

Avast, avira are good free ones.

Windows defender sucks donkey balls.

 

[Kezen]

So do these temps seem too high for an I5-4690k at stock speeds with an aftermarket cooler?

I just tried the Battlfront Beta and the highest temp from CPUID measured 67oc the other temps on the other cores ranged from 60 to 66.

I was running at ultra at 1900x1200 on a 980Ti.

It's just this is the first demanding game I've ran since building the system, normal temps are around 30.

I also just had steam running and CPUID that was it, no browsers open.

What's the cooler ? 66 is not dangerous for a CPU.

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

So do these temps seem too high for an I5-4690k at stock speeds with an aftermarket cooler?

I just tried the Battlfront Beta and the highest temp from CPUID measured 67oc the other temps on the other cores ranged from 60 to 66.

I was running at ultra at 1900x1200 on a 980Ti.

It's just this is the first demanding game I've ran since building the system, normal temps are around 30.

I also just had steam running and CPUID that was it, no browsers open.

It is not the best, but not bad either.

My 4670k, which is normally hotter than the 4690k, at 4.3 ghz with a cheap 212 evo has the same range on full load.

 

[Daffy Duck]

What's the cooler ? 66 is not dangerous for a CPU.

It's a Cryorig H5.

It is not the best, but not bad either.

My 4670k, which is normally hotter than the 4690k, at 4.3 ghz with a cheap 212 evo has the same range on full load.

So nothing to cause major worry then, or a need to reapply the thermal paste, as that's a job I'd rather avoid. >:E

 

[lordfuzzybutt]

It's a Cryorig H5.



So nothing to cause major worry then, or a need to reapply the thermal paste, as that's a job I'd rather avoid. >:E

It also depends on your ambient temp and airflow in the case. But you don't have to do anything, that temp is fine.
As long as it stays under low 70, nothing to worry about.

 

[Daffy Duck]

Brillian, thanks.

 

[CosmicQueso]

Holy crap liquid cooling is NO JOKE.

Just threw on a Corsair H60. It was way freakin easy. I tried doing a liquid cool install 10 or so years ago and it was a nightmare. This took 20 minutes.

CPU temps went from around 70 degrees centigrade or so to consistent 48.

Wish I would have done this years ago.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Holy crap liquid cooling is NO JOKE.

Just threw on a Corsair H60. It was way freakin easy. I tried doing a liquid cool install 10 or so years ago and it was a nightmare. This took 20 minutes.

CPU temps went from around 70 degrees centigrade or so to consistent 48.

Wish I would have done this years ago.

Sounds pretty sweet...I think i'm planning on getting the h80 or go whole hog and get h100 (where i'd be getting it from it doesn't make that much of a difference in price) but that's mightily impressive nonetheless.

 

[wrowa]

So, my girlfriend got her PC back after a 2 months insurance annoyance with quite a few components replaced (motherboard, CPU and PSU). Everything seems to be running fine, buuuut on start up there's always a warning by the Asus AI Suite complaining that the Vcore is at 1,8v. And I've frankly no idea what this means. She called the repair service but they say that she "can just ignore it"... But I don't feel quite confident just ignoring a warning message and red text though. So... can anyone explain to me what's happening there and if we should do something about it?

The CPU is a i7 4790 (@ 3.6Ghz).

 

[MR ARCADE FOREVER]

Avast, avira are good free ones.

Windows defender sucks donkey balls.

Thanks I just downloaded the free Avast version

 

[fred]

Hi guys,
Do you recommend buying an anti-virus software?I only got windows defender on my computer.Any recommendations?

ESET Smart Security is the best available at the moment imo. There isn't a free version available as far as I remember but BitTorrent will help you out if you don't mind being a pirate lol

 

[CosmicQueso]

Sounds pretty sweet...I think i'm planning on getting the h80 or go whole hog and get h100 (where i'd be getting it from it doesn't make that much of a difference in price) but that's mightily impressive nonetheless.

Add in how much quieter it is versus the stock fan and it's a very worthy upgrade imo.

 

[BossDarkseid]

Add in how much quieter it is versus the stock fan and it's a very worthy upgrade imo.

Yeah. It's not a make or beak it thing in terms of cost so really when I come to ordering it I'll just do a bit of research/make a decision.

 

[MR ARCADE FOREVER]

ESET Smart Security is the best available at the moment imo. There isn't a free version available as far as I remember but BitTorrent will help you out if you don't mind being a pirate lol

I do...I am in the US so no bit torrent for me :S

 

[Costia]

So, my girlfriend got her PC back after a 2 months insurance annoyance with quite a few components replaced (motherboard, CPU and PSU). Everything seems to be running fine, buuuut on start up there's always a warning by the Asus AI Suite complaining that the Vcore is at 1,8v. And I've frankly no idea what this means. She called the repair service but they say that she "can just ignore it"... But I don't feel quite confident just ignoring a warning message and red text though. So... can anyone explain to me what's happening there and if we should do something about it?

The CPU is a i7 4790 (@ 3.6Ghz).

Check the Vcore with CPU-Z.
1.8 is way too high, so it might be a mislabeled VCCin in the asus software.

 

[fred]

I do...I am in the US so no bit torrent for me :S

That's easily solved mate. That's what VPNs are for. You can download whatever you want anonymously. Your ISP will see that you're downloading SOMETHING but won't have a clue what it is thanks to the encryption. Will only cost $5-10 per month for internet freedom.

 

[Yoshichan]

Hey guys, one question - what is the power connector called that goes into Slim PS3 and PS4?

 

[kennah]

ESET Smart Security is the best available at the moment imo. There isn't a free version available as far as I remember but BitTorrent will help you out if you don't mind being a pirate lol

That's easily solved mate. That's what VPNs are for. You can download whatever you want anonymously. Your ISP will see that you're downloading SOMETHING but won't have a clue what it is thanks to the encryption. Will only cost $5-10 per month for internet freedom.

Please do not suggest people pirate software in this thread.

 

[Wowfunhappy]

Hey guys, so I have a bit of a weird hardware question.

I've been trying to install Hackintosh--a version of Mac OS X modified to work on non-Apple hardware--on my two-month-old Skylake machine. I've successfully done this before on other machines, but this one is particularly difficult, because OS X doesn't natively support the Z170A motherboard chip-set. Despite this, I know it's possible to get OS X working, because at least two other people with Skylake systems have managed to do it successfully. MY QUESTION ISN'T REALLY ABOUT HACKINTOSH OR OS X, so please don't stop reading!

The problem, it seems, is that on Z170A motherboards, OS X does not support USB or SATA. This means that I can't boot the OS X installer via my USB thumb drive, nor would I be able to install the OS to any of my SATA hard drives. Other people seem to have gotten around this problem via PCI adapters, but I don't really understand what this means.

So, my question is, what do I need to buy? I need to connect a drive to my motherboard via an interface other than USB or SATA (such as PCI), and I need to be able to boot from said drive.

For what it's worth, my motherboard is an MSI Z170A PC Mate. Other than the fact that I just prefer OS X, the reason installing it is so important is because I own a Mac Adobe Creative Suite 6, and I want to be able to use it on this computer.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks! I just don't know much about hardware...

 

[The Boat]

I got my baby today! Coming from a 10 year old PC is a gigantic change, played a bit of Battlefront earlier, runs fantastic! Thank you for the help, especially you RGM79, couldn't have done it without you! Went for the MX200 instead of the BX100 because it was less than €10 more expensive and from what I've read, it might last longer, so what the heck.

Sorry for the shitty pic!

Asus Z170-P
i7 6700K
AMD MSI R9 390 8GB GDDR5
8 GB DDR5 3000 MHz
Disco SSD Crucial MX200 250GB SATA III
Caixa ATX Cooler Master Silencio 652S
Fonte Seasonic M12II 620W Evo Edition 80+ Bronze
Cooler CPU Cryorig H5 Universal
Caixa ATX Cooler Master Silencio 652S

I'll overclock eventually, but for now I'm just getting my bearings. Everything is new!

 

[fred]

There's nothing better than turning on a new machine after being stuck with an old one for so long. I built my current PC in 2008 and am starting a new build next month on a Beast for VR gaming. Going to build the main rig in November and use the iGPU until May next year when I'll be getting either a Radeon R9 Fury X or a Pascal GPU when/if NVidia get off their arses and release the bloomin thing.

 

[Nostremitus]

I got my baby today! Coming from a 10 year old PC is a gigantic change, played a bit of Battlefront earlier, runs fantastic! Thank you for the help, especially you RGM79, couldn't have done it without you! Went for the MX200 instead of the BX100 because it was less than €10 more expensive and from what I've read, it might last longer, so what the heck.

Sorry for the shitty pic!


Asus Z170-P
i7 6700K
AMD MSI R9 390 8GB GDDR5
8 GB DDR5 3000 MHz
Disco SSD Crucial MX200 250GB SATA III
Caixa ATX Cooler Master Silencio 652S
Fonte Seasonic M12II 620W Evo Edition 80+ Bronze
Cooler CPU Cryorig H5 Universal
Caixa ATX Cooler Master Silencio 652S

I'll overclock eventually, but for now I'm just getting my bearings. Everything is new!

Congrats. Any shots of inside the case?

There's nothing better than turning on a new machine after being stuck with an old one for so long. I built my current PC in 2008 and am starting a new build next month on a Beast for VR gaming. Going to build the main rig in November and use the iGPU until May next year when I'll be getting either a Radeon R9 Fury X or a Pascal GPU when/if NVidia get off their arses and release the bloomin thing.

AMD's HBM2 cards may be out by then too.

 

[IcyRhythms]

I'm looking to possibly purchase a new router and switch.(need more than 4 ports)

Router must have wireless capability, be Gigabit, simple UI, and good security options. Any help would be appreciated as my Netgear from years ago is on its last leg.

EDIT

Would also prefer to spend $150 or less

 

[fred]

Yup, hopefully. Although my spending is probably going to be restricted to around 500 quid I think which is a bit of a bugger. Might have to see if I can find another 100 quid or so from somewhere. Beans on toast for a month or two should do it lololol

 

[hitgirl]

Got one of those $260 27" IPS 1440p monitors than can be overclocked to 100-120hz. What a damn deal, holy shit.

 

[CadetMahoney]

Ordered a Gigabyte GA-Z97-D3H (normal atx version) suggested in the OP, but it came with bent and even missing pins on the mobo. I didn't realize until I tried booting and even blew my PSU thinking it was that atx 12v 2x4 pin thing messing with it roff. Removed everything and took off the CPU (which is correct and fits). 100% sure I didn't bend the pins myself.

Sent it back to amazon and returns and ordered a replacement. If the replacement one comes back with missing/bent pins I will hulk smash.

Went for the MX200 instead of the BX100 because it was less than €10 more expensive and from what I've read, it might last longer, so what the heck.

How lond did your last ssd last?

I'm scared how these just quit with no warning signals or nothing.

 

[RGM79]

I'm looking to possibly purchase a new router and switch.(need more than 4 ports)

Router must have wireless capability, be Gigabit, simple UI, and good security options. Any help would be appreciated as my Netgear from years ago is on its last leg.

EDIT

Would also prefer to spend $150 or less

What sort of wireless capability do you need? Wireless N or AC? And what kind of wireless speeds do you need? Speaking in general, Asus networking equipment is quite nice.

Hey guys, one question - what is the power connector called that goes into Slim PS3 and PS4?

It's called a C7 or C8 connector.

 

[Iacobellis]

That is only 5 DIMMs.



MSI has the Z170M Mortar motherboard which is mostly black but has white and silver details. There aren't a lot of options for mATX. If you're willing to go with ATX size, then there's more like the MSI Krait and XPower models and the Asus Z170-A.

Is there supposed to be a release date for the Mortar? Newegg says out of stock.

 

[Ragingbegal]

I'm looking for some help as I consider building a PC for the first time.

Your Current Specs: I use a Chromebook, so everything will be brand new. I'll also need a copy of Windows and a monitor.
Budget: $1,600 USA. I can go above this if necessary, but the lower the better.
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming both classic and modern games. I'm more concerned about framerates than resolution, with a target of 60 FPS for most games. Also want it to be capable of VR. Aside from gaming, myself and my finance will be using it for work. Mostly Microsoft Office but some photoshop and light video editing.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p to start, but I may consider a higher resolution monitor down the road.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Targeting 60 FPS on everything. Want to run game at near max settings, though I'm fine with 1080p resolution.
Looking to reuse any parts?: Not applicable.
When will you build?: After Black Friday.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe, but I have no idea how to do this.

I came up with a preliminary build based on Haz's Enthusiast build in the OP. The main difference is I am targeting a Geforce 980Ti card, because I'd rather spend a little more on a GPU that will have a longer useful life and have read great things about the 980Ti. I also need the computer to have a wireless card because it will probably be located in our apartment away from the cable port and we don't want messy wires running around.

I've listed my preliminary components below. My main question is: are there other components in this build that I can replace with less expensive parts without significantly sacrificing performance? Such as the CPU, motherboard, and power supply? The more money I can free up in the cost of the build, the more I will have to spend on the software I need.

Thanks for any advice you guys and gals can give.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3NVCYJ
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3NVCYJ/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($248.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($92.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($639.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.65 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($39.95 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($93.75 @ OutletPC)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DGX 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-G300LX 802.11b/g PCI Wi-Fi Adapter ($10.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1693.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-11 02:21 EDT-0400

 

[Burgess_101]

I currently have 1333hz RAM OCed to 1600Mhz, if I buy the same RAM but in 1600Mhz, that would work fine right?

 

[cyen]

I currently have 1333hz RAM OCed to 1600Mhz, if I buy the same RAM but in 1600Mhz, that would work fine right?

It depends, how did you overclock it? By selecting 1600mhz in the bios or by changing the strap divider? If you just selected the 1600mhz option in bios it will probably work just fine, in the worst scenario both will work at 1333mhz if any problem arises.

 

[Burgess_101]

It depends, how did you overclock it? By selecting 1600mhz in the bios or by changing the strap divider? If you just selected the 1600mhz option in bios it will probably work just fine, in the worst scenario both will work at 1333mhz if any problem arises.

Through the BIOS. I figured it would be okay just wanted to make sure, 1333mhz is fine anyway if any problems arise. Just have to decide if 16GB is worth it now.

 

[The Boat]

Congrats. Any shots of inside the case?

Agh, no sorry!

How lond did your last ssd last?

I'm scared how these just quit with no warning signals or nothing.

It's my first ssd

 

[fred]

@Ragingbatal: You may want to switch to a Radeon R9 Fury X instead of a 980Ti for VR. Asynchronous Shaders at the hardware level are going to be worth their weight in gold when it comes to VR gaming, plus it's cheaper. And I may be remembering things wrong, so I will stand to be corrected, but it's 4K performance is better just in case you go for a 4K display during the next few years.

A Fury X is top of my list when I get my GPU next year unless NVidia get off their arses and release Pascal that outperforms it for a reasonable price before then.

 

[fifasnipe2224]

That is only 5 DIMMs.[/URL].

Yup. I have 2x4GBs and 3x2GBs.

 

[TheMink]

Hello, I just built my PC a few months ago, and I have been having a number of probelms that I have overcome. But this one I'm stumped, I moved houses and now it will literally not turn on. No light no nothing. I tried multiple ports, checked the power attachments on the motherboard, they all seem secure. Tried checking the actual power buttons connections and they seemed fine. And obviously I remembered the master power switch on the power supply itself.
Any suggestions??

 

[Kezen]

Hello, I just built my PC a few months ago, and I have been having a number of probelms that I have overcome. But this one I'm stumped, I moved houses and now it will literally not turn on. No light no nothing. I tried multiple ports, checked the power attachments on the motherboard, they all seem secure. Tried checking the actual power buttons connections and they seemed fine. And obviously I remembered the master power switch on the power supply itself.
Any suggestions??

1) Make sure it's plugged (obvious but sometimes you look for more convoluted reasons) with the proper power cord.
2) Okay, if your PSU is on and there is absolutely no light on your MB (usually there is one) then your PSU might have bitten the dust.

 

[TheMink]

1) Make sure it's plugged (obvious but sometimes you look for more convoluted reasons) with the proper power cord.
2) Okay, if your PSU is on and there is absolutely no light on your MB (usually there is one) then your PSU might have bitten the dust.

Ahh seriously? It's brand new 😭

 

[opticalmace]

Hello, I just built my PC a few months ago, and I have been having a number of probelms that I have overcome. But this one I'm stumped, I moved houses and now it will literally not turn on. No light no nothing. I tried multiple ports, checked the power attachments on the motherboard, they all seem secure. Tried checking the actual power buttons connections and they seemed fine. And obviously I remembered the master power switch on the power supply itself.
Any suggestions??

If it worked before moving then I'm guessing something came loose.. I would go back to basics, unplug everything you don't need, just mobo/cpu/ram and psu.

You're sure that power outlet works?

I'm guessing there's something simple you are overlooking.

 

[Kezen]

Ahh seriously? It's brand new 😭

What's your PSU exactly ? You know, brand new or not some PSUs are just worthless and will break easily.

Honestly it could also be your MB, do you have any other PC for testing ?

 

[TheMink]

If it worked before moving then I'm guessing something came loose.. I would go back to basics, unplug everything you don't need, just mobo/cpu/ram and psu.

You're sure that power outlet works?

I'm guessing there's something simple you are overlooking.

OK I'll try that.

What's your PSU exactly ? You know, brand new or not some PSUs are just worthless and will break easily.

Honestly it could also be your MB, do you have any other PC for testing ?

EVGA 750watt my Mobo is the ASRock Z97 Extreme 3

 

[Kezen]

OK I'll try that.



EVGA 750watt my Mobo is the ASRock Z97 Extreme 3

This is an excellent PSU, would be very surprising to see it failing like this.
Your MB is a likely culprit, not that Asrock is not reputable but sadly even well received motherboards sometimes break easily.

 

[Oxn]

This is an excellent PSU, would be very surprising to see it failing like this.
Your MB is a likely culprit, not that Asrock is not reputable but sadly even well received motherboards sometimes break easily.

Asrock sucks. I used them in my first 3 builds, but no more.

Got me a sabertooth z77 and have been happy to never use them again.

 

[TheMink]

This is an excellent PSU, would be very surprising to see it failing like this.
Your MB is a likely culprit, not that Asrock is not reputable but sadly even well received motherboards sometimes break easily.

Asrock sucks. I used them in my first 3 builds, but no more.

Got me a sabertooth z77 and have been happy to never use them again.

Well I can't figure it out. I'm going to try more stuff before I call time of death, but if I had to what mobo should I get?

 

[opticalmace]

Well I can't figure it out. I'm going to try more stuff before I call time of death, but if I had to what mobo should I get?

Before you think of replacing your motherboard, you could stop by a local computer shop and get them to test your PSU for you.

 

[Foddzy]

I'm having trouble getting my 5.1 sound system set up for gaming. I've got a 1440p monitor on dual DVI and a HDMI receiver with 5.1 speaker setup. I was having trouble getting surround sound with a sound card that had optical out so I connected one of the Nvidia 980's HDMI outputs directly to the receiver. Now the surround sound mostly seems to work but there is a "phantom" monitor off in the corner of my desktop that is a royal pain to deal with. I've been basically unable to play the Battlefront beta due to errant clicks in the phantom monitor field causing the game to lose focus, and suddenly I'm randomly clicking the desktop and out of game.

My receiver doesn't have component inputs for surround so I think I'm stuck with HDMI.

Is there some way to hook up HDMI surround sound for 1440p PC that doesn't result in that maddening phantom monitor?

 

[legacyzero]

Ok, help me out GAF?

My 670 is starting to show it's age. 2GB Vram doesn't feel like enough these days, especially since I love to max my games out with at least 60 frames most often, AND I love to downsample.

I keep hearing about the 970, but with the 3.5 VRAM issue and (from what I can tell) isn't that much of a jump from the 670, I'm looking for something that will give me at least 4 GB Vram, and a jump in performance that'll make it worth upgrading. What's GAF recommend?

 

[kiyomi]

Ok, help me out GAF?

My 670 is starting to show it's age. 2GB Vram doesn't feel like enough these days, especially since I love to max my games out with at least 60 frames most often, AND I love to downsample.

I keep hearing about the 970, but with the 3.5 VRAM issue and (from what I can tell) isn't that much of a jump from the 670, I'm looking for something that will give me at least 4 GB Vram, and a jump in performance that'll make it worth upgrading. What's GAF recommend?

970 isn't enough of a jump for you? http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1349?vs=1355

I dunno, I love my 970. It does everything I ask of it, which for the most part is run things maxed out, or as close as can reasonably be, at 1080/60. I don't really see the whole "3.5GB" thing an issue, but potentially it could do in the future, I guess...

An overclocked 970 can run at 980-like performance levels for significantly cheaper, when overclocked. However if you're freaked out by the whole "half a gig runs slower than the rest" business with the 970, you might want to look into a 980 or switch to AMD. The 390X is priced somewhere between the two and IIRC, performs in that range, too.

I think the 970 is still a really good card for the money, especially OC'ed. That's what I'd go for but it kinda just depends on how much you're willing to spend, and what system you already have in place, to some extent.