Shadowhaxor
Member
Going back on that, there's a few R9 380's that are $230 on this newegg link, 4GB versions as well. Definitely a better deal if you can do it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=BESTMATCH&Description=r9+380&N=-1&isNodeId=1
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Going back on that, there's a few R9 380's that are $230 on this newegg link, 4GB versions as well. Definitely a better deal if you can do it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=BESTMATCH&Description=r9+380&N=-1&isNodeId=1
Closest you are going to get is Corsair DOMINATOR Platinum Series which are silver and twice the price. You might as well just buy black ones.
I'm just looking at some gaming mouses (I think that's how you'd say it lol) and was wondering if the cheaper offerings on amazon (namely the ones that are £15 or less with loads of positive review) are good enough for someone who might do light gaming using keyboard/mouse but will predominately use controller?
Also, has anyone got suggestions on mid-range gaming headsets?
Thanks
Also, has anyone got suggestions on mid-range gaming headsets?
Thanks
opticalmace
Member
Why not 6600k?
To echo, any new build at this point should be LGA 1151 or 2011-v3. Going LGA 1150 on a new build doesn't make sense.
Overclock your Titan X. Look at 12GB VRAM in GPU-Z. Feel better.
yall going crazy lol
GAF I need some advice.
I bought two Benq xl2411z monitors from Newegg and one of them is a decent amount brighter than the other and seems to have some noise whenI play video on it.
Should I RMA it? Both monitors are the same settings and are hooked up via display port.
I'm not sure how much drift to expect between the same model of monitor.
I bought two Benq xl2411z monitors from Newegg and one of them is a decent amount brighter than the other and seems to have some noise whenI play video on it.
Should I RMA it? Both monitors are the same settings and are hooked up via display port.
I'm not sure how much drift to expect between the same model of monitor.
CreepingFear
Member
It's the heat and lack of sleep. Fuck my job. I have to get up at like 3:30 AM.
soulassssns
Banned
An i5 4690k will handle anything I will throw at it for the foreseeable future. Also cheaper comes to mind... If I go LGA 1151 then I have to purchase ram along with the cpu and mobo.
appaws
Banned
Yeah, those look good and would go with what I have in mind....but I'm not paying that. I'll probably have to go with black.
I already went with all chrome monsoon fittings and I have a sweet nickel EK block coming to replace my old XSPC one.
This Asus Z170P-P-D3 LGA1151 motherboard supposedly supports DDR3, but I don't think there are any reviews for it yet, professional or user.
That supports DDR3L, whereas he most likely has standard 1.5v DDR3.
I don't know where you are but Microcenter is offering i7 4790Ks for 280, i5 4690Ks for 200. Both in store pickup though. But that 4790K from Microcenter is only a little bit more than any of the other online retailers prices for the 4690K.
No, it says DDR3/DDR3L. If you look at that motherboard's QVL support list, it specifically lists DDR3 modules rated for up to 1.65V.
Microcenter selling the 5820k for $299 is the processor deal of the year.
Huh, I read that Z170 only supported DDR3L. Guess this mobo is deviating from Intel spec.
I'm only slightly tempted because I can get it right now instead of waiting who knows how many more days for Skylake, but I'm still sticking to my 6700K plans.
Yeah, I don't know where Microcenter gets their 4790Ks from but they always seem to be stupid cheap. I got mine for $250 a year ago. I thought it was a pricing error it was so low.
Skylake does have a DDR3 controller, but typically only DDR3L is supported because it's closer in voltage to DDR4, I heard.
In any case, it's not that big a deal, I suppose. I don't think anyone wants to be the guinea pig for that motherboard, even if it's interesting.
I would jump on it in an instant - especially seeing as it trades blows with the 6700K regarding gaming, and trashes it when you get to productivity stuff. After some pretty extensive research, I can't see any benefit to waiting for the 6700K, unless Skylake-E will use the same socket, and thus, provide an upgrade path.
ExpressGalaxy
Member
Does anyone have any recommendations or knowledge of any good deals on a ~$500 pre-built computer for parents who don't do anything other than browse the internet, listen to internet radio, watch youtube videos, and do occasional Word/Excel work?
I recently came across some excess cash and thought I'd surprise my parents by shipping them a new computer that they can open once they get home from work on Monday/Tuesday.
I recently came across some excess cash and thought I'd surprise my parents by shipping them a new computer that they can open once they get home from work on Monday/Tuesday.
Cheaper overall package I would guess with very little performance loss from what I'm seeing.
soulassssns
Banned
I am currently stationed in Lemoore CA and I'm pretty sure there isnt one all that close.
Shining Sunshine
Banned
opticalmace
Member
Agreed re: performance, though I'd go for the newer one just for the extra chipset features.
I see he said he already has ddr3 ram though, so that makes sense.
soulassssns
Banned
Correct, normally I'd just suck it up and upgrade but I literally just purchased 16gb of g skill DDR3 1866 which was one small purchase on an upgrade path to that i5 4690k prior to Intel releasing Skylake.
I guess I should pay closer attention to this thread from now on.
Re-posting, looking to finally probably order parts this weekend finances permitting. I had posted this in the last OT and it seemed fine, someone had recommended an APU but it would have been almost a wash after having to buy faster RAM and the performance drop was pretty noticeable. Just re-posting last minute in case anyone has any suggestions, this is my first build, then if everything goes well we're going to build a second beefier one later this year but I want to get my feet wet first.
InsaneLuchador
Member
Any thoughts, PC Gaf? Haven't built a PC in nearly eight years but want to celebrate a promotion at work.
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k) | $249.95 @ B&H
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $25.98 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-z170p) | $126.99 @ SuperBiiz
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f43000c15d8grbb) | $69.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct120bx100ssd1) | $64.99 @ Adorama
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $49.99 @ NCIX US
**Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx970gaming4g) | $334.99 @ B&H
**Power Supply** | [SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze) | $64.99 @ SuperBiiz
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $997.87
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| **Total** | **$987.87**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2015-08-14 00:03 EDT-0400 |
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i56600k) | $249.95 @ B&H
**CPU Cooler** | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) | $25.98 @ OutletPC
**Motherboard** | [Asus Z170-P ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-z170p) | $126.99 @ SuperBiiz
**Memory** | [G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f43000c15d8grbb) | $69.99 @ Newegg
**Storage** | [Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct120bx100ssd1) | $64.99 @ Adorama
**Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $49.99 @ NCIX US
**Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-gtx970gaming4g) | $334.99 @ B&H
**Power Supply** | [SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply](http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze) | $64.99 @ SuperBiiz
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $997.87
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| **Total** | **$987.87**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](http://pcpartpicker.com) 2015-08-14 00:03 EDT-0400 |
Nostremitus
Member
So the graphics card isn't producing the digital signal that is leaving it and traveling through the HDMI cable to the monitor? (Assuming it's connected via HDMI)
Bubbavelli
Banned
So i have some extra financial aid money coming in and Im contemplating going all out with a pc and getting Haz's "excellent" pc build. Would I be able to use the free copy of windows 10 from my laptop on this new rig? I've yet to redeem it
No, the only way the Windows 10 upgrade offer works is if you upgrade from an existing copy of Windows 7/8/8.1. You don't get a separate license of Windows 10 for free, you get to turn an existing Windows 7/8/8.1 license into a Windows 10 license.
If possible at all, double the size of the SSD and you can install some games on it, too. Makes a world of difference for some games. Looks perfectly fine otherwise.
DeliciousDoc
Member
im kind of confused about the new pc tech coming out soon. basically new tech, starting with skylake is incompatible with older mobos and ram? So basically, if i dont have a pc now (but have an image of my old pc on an external HD running windows 7) im better off to wait and buy everything using the new tech do i dont cut off any update paths in the future? looks like getting a decent rig (3rd one on the spreadsheet) is gonna cost me over 1200 (without a monitor, keyboard, mouse and speakers) so if i have to pay that much, i dont want something that will be obselete in 1-3 years. Am i better off waiting?
IMO the ideal PC for 1080p gaming for not crazy money would be roughly
- i5 k series chip so you can overclock
- 8GB ram
- 120GB SSD for Windows and apps
- 1TB HDD for storage and games etc
- GTX 970
- around 500W PSU
Making it quiet and/or making it small can add cost. I wouldn't go for any of the ones you list.
- Alienware has a poor GPU and you'll be wanting to upgrade pretty soon. Also bad value for money in the UK
- chillblast again poor value for money. once you add a K CPU, cooler, SSD and 970 the cost rockets up
- That specific CCL isn't bad, but isnt great. If you look at all of their desktop PCs, and filter by those with nvidia GTX970, the fist one at £799 is kind of the spec you're looking for, although the case is wrong for you.
Are you up for building yourself? I think you could just about squeeze that soec for £800 with careful choice of parts. Do you already have a copy of Windows? And do you need a keyboard/mouse in that budget?
Graphics cards work without drivers too.
I actually agree with you that a lot of our range isn't great (and there's far too many of them!). Heck, the cheapest K based system we have is £999 which is pretty ridiculous.
If you really don't want to build it yourself a lot of places will build it for you (including us) - I'd definitely recommend calling around to see what the various sites will do for you. That way you can get one to your specification rather than buying "off the shelf" so to speak. You'd be looking to see what they can do for a spec like this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (£178.00 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£24.95 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (£103.22 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory (£32.03 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£44.99 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£38.70 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB Video Card (£249.55 @ Aria PC)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case (£62.76 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: Fractal Design Integra M 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (£46.98 @ Novatech)
Total: £781.18
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-08-14 09:02 BST+0100
Bear in mind these are just the parts based on cheapest retail prices - most places that build will likely add a build fee but they may discount some of the items to hit a price point.
Hey guys, I know this isn't exactly the thread... But with no where else to go, I had to ask... (As I couldn't find a thread about repairing PC's.)
Anyone able to give me some help to see if my graphics card is dying or about to die?
This started happening today and I have 2 monitors, sort of, one's a wacom tablet. Now I have 2 scenarios, I get something like above if I DON'T have my tablet plugged in when booting up. If I do have my tablet when I boot up, then my main monitor looks and acts mostly normal while the tablet screen becomes all messed up.
I've tried to play games on the main monitor when it's normal and find that they play as normal with no graphical glitches, stuttering or anything, and no increase in temp from the usual. I feel that if the graphics card was about to go, wouldn't I be seeing graphical artifacts among other issues?
If you don't want to fill this thread, it is okay to just PM.
Anyone able to give me some help to see if my graphics card is dying or about to die?
This started happening today and I have 2 monitors, sort of, one's a wacom tablet. Now I have 2 scenarios, I get something like above if I DON'T have my tablet plugged in when booting up. If I do have my tablet when I boot up, then my main monitor looks and acts mostly normal while the tablet screen becomes all messed up.
I've tried to play games on the main monitor when it's normal and find that they play as normal with no graphical glitches, stuttering or anything, and no increase in temp from the usual. I feel that if the graphics card was about to go, wouldn't I be seeing graphical artifacts among other issues?
If you don't want to fill this thread, it is okay to just PM.
So you're a student. Why can't you get free Dreamspark OSs?
BTW, does anyone know (maybe from past CPU release experience) when we can expect to see the i7-6700k on sale in the U.S. (Newegg/Amazon)?
#notallschools
Obsolete means it doesn't do anything anymore. I think the 2500k proves that cpu obsolescence is a non issue and you can expect a few years out of any decent chip, especially with over clocking.
There will always be something better down the line. If you wait, hill always be waiting. Skylake just came out. It's a pretty safe bet that it will last someone a good 3 to 4 years. Gpus are meant to be changed often. Spend the 1200, save up for a new 300$ gpu in a couple years.
Enjoy the now, don't worry about the future.
So both the monitor and the Wacom are being sourced via one graphics card? It does sound like the graphics card could be experiencing some sort of issues.Hey guys, I know this isn't exactly the thread... But with no where else to go, I had to ask... (As I couldn't find a thread about repairing PC's.)
Anyone able to give me some help to see if my graphics card is dying or about to die?
This started happening today and I have 2 monitors, sort of, one's a wacom tablet. Now I have 2 scenarios, I get something like above if I DON'T have my tablet plugged in when booting up. If I do have my tablet when I boot up, then my main monitor looks and acts mostly normal while the tablet screen becomes all messed up.
I've tried to play games on the main monitor when it's normal and find that they play as normal with no graphical glitches, stuttering or anything, and no increase in temp from the usual. I feel that if the graphics card was about to go, wouldn't I be seeing graphical artifacts among other issues?
If you don't want to fill this thread, it is okay to just PM.
When was the last time you updated the drivers? I might try doing a clean install of the latest drivers and see if that clears up the issue.
Thanks a lot for the post
I didn't really want to build myself. I've read that it's pretty simple, but TBH I would rather save the time. Unless it's the only way to get what I want, then maybe I'll get my screwdrivers out!
I don't have a copy of windows. I have a keyboard, and will just buy a mouse. I also have a 360 wired controller that I use in my laptop.
Would a tower PC be able to stand beside a speaker and just be hooked up to the TV, I'm guessing by hdmi? If so would that ccl PC (I think it's the elite falcon IV) you mentioned be worth a buy? They also have a decent warranty that looks good.
Thanks a lot, was gonna buy that alienware so you've already helped. Cheers.
So I'm reading up on the whole 840 Evo thing since that's my current OS drive and it doesn't seem like Samsung ever really permanently fixed it, but just gave us some tools to "refresh" it every so often and firmware to do so automatically.
I'm thinking with the 850 Evo being ~177, both the 2.25" and M.2-2280, would it be smart to just get one of those as my main OS/gaming drive and then use the older 840 Evo as a secondary gaming drive only. Or are the performance losses with 840 negligible enough that I should probably just save the ~$200 and stick with it for little while longer?
I'm thinking with the 850 Evo being ~177, both the 2.25" and M.2-2280, would it be smart to just get one of those as my main OS/gaming drive and then use the older 840 Evo as a secondary gaming drive only. Or are the performance losses with 840 negligible enough that I should probably just save the ~$200 and stick with it for little while longer?
I can't believe it! I have managed to damage TWO of these Metro Vacuum DataVac cleaning kits! The first time I didn't use a converter, and it got too heated that it broke itself, but this time, I did use a converter and it didn't even last two minutes! These kits are so expensive and I must be doing something wrong since they break every time.
Are there some cheap cleaning kits out there, which aren't as expensive maybe?
Are there some cheap cleaning kits out there, which aren't as expensive maybe?
Hoover works (queue the static discharge parade).
sssstententen
Member
Almost no Mobo that I know of comes with a wireless adapter, prebuilts will sometimes come with them in the form of PCI/e cards. I may be wrong.
There are some great Pcie cards or usb adapters out there for varying prices. Or you could even go the route I did and use powerlines. pcpartpicker has a section for network adapters under the additional items/accessories/other categories I believe.
Drive by respondig, but the performance increases from an 840 to 850 would be pretry negligible for all but very specific uses. Standard gaming, any half decent SSD is gonna be great.
Thanks a lot, I'll see what they have at my local store and pick something with what's left of my budget, I don't think it matters much as my router is quite close to where I sit.
sssstententen
Member
If it's that close, can you not just wire an ethernet cable to it? You'd see much better ping and get the max out of your connection that way, and ethernet is incredibly cheap.
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