Zabant
Member
I can wait.
It's probably BS but i'll be really salty if the '10X faster!' claims made by team green turn out to be true and i'm left stuck with the old shit.
Especially as I only buy new PC hardware around every 3 years.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
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I can wait.
It's probably BS but i'll be really salty if the '10X faster!' claims made by team green turn out to be true and i'm left stuck with the old shit.
Especially as I only buy new PC hardware around every 3 years.
opticalmace
Member
It won't be 10X faster. I would expect maybe 30% faster than Maxwell... just ballparking.
Zabant
Member
That's still a damn significant improvement. What would be your guess for a month? think we'll get them before E3?
opticalmace
Member
Some rumours say April, some say a bit later.
I'd say April-June is probably reasonable.
Haloid1177
Banned
Budget? What will it be used for?
No budget is planned atm. It is kind of throw a line out and see what snags. Documents, videos, light gaming for her and anything really. Not something to replace desktops though.
If you want a very cheap option then just get her a cheap laptop and take a hacksaw to it. Then tell her that it cost a fortune and spend the money saved on something nice for yourself.
It should be noted that I am single lololol
I got my last girlfriend a pair of slippers and a vibrator for Christmas. If she didn't like the slippers she could go and fuck herself.
*Grabs coat and runs*
What would GAF recommend for a small desktop profile (talking Apple Cube small here) microATX/itx casing that supports Skylake and perhaps a Fury X/Nano graphics card (though normal sized graphics cards also help)? I'm trying to see if its possible to build a new rig that's smaller than my current one.
What kind of motherboard and PSU would you guys recommend for such a setup?
What kind of motherboard and PSU would you guys recommend for such a setup?
There is nothing that small.
But. The Fractal node 304 is good. There are some other very small cases these days, even if they are super niche.
This will be handy to tell people who are getting into VR gaming, thanks! Were you playing vanilla Skyrim or were there mods installed?
Your only option is mITX form factor. Ideally the PSU should be as small as possible yet having modular cables, depending on the case. Have you decided what case you want? The Raijintek Metis comes to mind, but it's still a bit larger than the Apple Cube.
SirMossyBloke
Member
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread but it seems to be the closest.
I recently had to reinstall Windows and i've only just got around to overclocking again. However this time around everytime I try to overclock my mem clock and hit apply it just reverts back to +0. I'm only going as high as +300 but even lower clocks still reset it back to zero. Any ideas?
I recently had to reinstall Windows and i've only just got around to overclocking again. However this time around everytime I try to overclock my mem clock and hit apply it just reverts back to +0. I'm only going as high as +300 but even lower clocks still reset it back to zero. Any ideas?
MisterNoisy
Member
It looks like a bit of a challenge to build in, but maybe the Xigmatek Nebula? Super slick design, and it's about as compact/unobtrusive as a case is going to get. Downside is that it only uses one exhaust fan, with a meshed bottom for intake, so you might have to run push/pull on the Fury X radiator and even then run the fans kinda hard. Silverstone makes decent small (140mm long) PSUs and sells short cable sets for most of them.
Yeah, something like this Raijintek would be ideal. Although I would appreciate it if it were possible to have more USB 3.0 ports in there.
Perhaps I shouldn't have mentioned the Apple Cube; at least not in terms of size, but form factor (as in, a rig that would sit comfortably on your desktop that doesn't take up much space). I don't mind if it ends up bigger, but I guess my goal is to build a newer rig that takes up less space than my tower, without sacrificing functionality.
Hmm, that looks nice too! This might be another option should it drop in price.
Any suggestions for gaming-ready mITX boards, or small form-factor motherboards in general?
(multiple USB3.0 ports recommended)
I don't think there's any cases with more than 2 frontal USB 3.0 ports. Few motherboards have more than one of those internal headers for frontal USB 3.0 ports, and some even have none at all. If you're looking for more, there are things like front panel connectors that add USB 3.0 (and 3.1 and Type C) but whether there's room for that depends on what case you choose. One note about the Raijintek (and Xigmatek) mITX case, considering how compact they are, they do have flaws in terms of internal design. They often lack space for cable management and don't have a lot of options when it comes to cooling, meaning you have to pick parts and cooling carefully and you'll be limited if you wanted to overclock.
There's not a lot of mITX sized Z170 motherboards out there, but some do have gamer-oriented design and aesthetics. Here's a list of available models.
Thanks! I don't think I'll be overclocking my rig though, as I hear doing so wears down on CPU durability.
It stands to reason that it would, but CPUs are rarely defective and will last for at least a decade. Overclocking wouldn't really knock off that much of its lifespan, you'd probably be wanting a whole new PC before the processor ever died from heat and overwork.
It used to do so years and years ago but as long as your temperatures aren't too extreme you won't have any problems these days. CPUs are designed with minor overclocking in mind nowadays, hence the Intel Speed Boost thingummybob.
KillerMan91
Member
So what would be the best replacement for as cheap as possible to GTX 660 Ti? My current broke down during sex scene in witcher lol. Going to upgrade the whole computer probably next summer so now only looking for cheap replacement.
How cheap? Same level of performance?
KillerMan91
Member
Yeah. Same level.
I see. Some people always assume that they'd want to throw away their old rig as opposed to, say, repurosing it for some other task (such as making it their steam machine), but I suppose as long as I don't push it to its complete limits I won't melt anything. Still, I do want to have the "safety overhead" (in case of bad drivers or some sort of faulty software programing/memory leaks) just for good measure allowing me to have leeway. I actually do not intend to perform any more upgrades once I have this rig all assembled, so I would want it to last a decade at least before it would be repurposed for some other task. Let's just say this is a mighty big investment for me, and I'm not rich enough to buy a new part every time something breaks down.
The ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard seems to be along the lines I'm looking for! 6 x USB 3.0 ports + 2 on the front end of the casing. That's double the amount of USB 3.0 ports I have on my current rig!
I guess now I just need to play the waiting game on the other parts (AMD Nano/Fury X or some other graphics card that would fit and not produce a lot of heat), but I'm guessing the RAM should be available.
What would be the recommended specs for someone trying to do VR gaming with such a rig?
So far I have:
-SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 1TB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive (Bought)
Currently selected:
-Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac (The Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K6+ seems for more for people who like to do multi-SLI/Crossfire)
- Xigmatek Nebula C EN6329 or its black variant (should I go with the Fractal Design Node 304 Black or Raijintek Mentis instead for cooling concerns? I'm not much into the whole window bling factor though...)
-CORSAIR CX series CX600M 600W ATX12V PSU (Any other cheaper but equally reliable modular PSUs are welcome)
-Still need to decide on what kind of DDR4 RAM for price/performance/value. I plan to max out at 32GB from the get go since once assembled, don't plan on upgrading. Again, not really looking into overclocking.
-AMD Nano or Fury X (whichever become cheaper or has the better deal), although if nVidia has a small form factor of equal or better performance/cheaper, I'd gladly look into it.
-Intel Core i7-6700k 4.0/4.2GHz
My strategy is to buy each of the parts piece-by-piece over time. Which part should I save up for next?
Thanks for the suggestions guys! I was wondering also what would be a good price for a mid/high PC if I didn't want to spend all of that money?
I saw that you, IceIpor, have given me a setup with an i5 rather than an i7. What difference does that make?
Mithos
Gold Member
Looking into (even though I do not really want to) upgrading my:
GTX 660 Ti to a GTX 970 4gb or a R9 390 8gb, any thoughts on the two cardtypes?
The rest of my computer is.
GTX 660 Ti to a GTX 970 4gb or a R9 390 8gb, any thoughts on the two cardtypes?
The rest of my computer is.
Code:
CPU: Intel Core i7 930 @ 3.4Ghz (Bloomfield)
MOB: Asus P6T Deluxe V2
MEM: Corsair 12GB DDR3 (Intel i7 PC12800 Dominator 1600Mhz)
GFX: Asus GeForce GTX 660Ti 2GB GDDR5 (GTX660 TI-DC2-2GD5)
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro M850 (850w)i5/i7, there isn't much difference except less multi-thread support. So slower if you're planning on multimedia work like video editing. Technically, an i5 is less "future-proof" without knowing how future games will perform comparatively. Otherwise expect a 1-2% fps difference between the two in current games.
I'd suggest a budget around $1000 for mid-high if it's from scratch.
You can save some money if you already have a Windows license, or are willing to buy it from someone else for cheaper.
I lowered some specs in this one, trying to reach $1000 but it's still high.
Nostremitus's build looks fine as well, if you want a mini-ITX case. I prefer regular tower because of more space and upgrade room.
You can also use the builds from the OP, which is what I based most of the parts off of if you want to save more money.
The "Great Value" one (third one) is the best for mid-high settings, except replace the r280 with the r290/390 or 970.
If you're looking to buy new, then I think a GTX 950 or R7 370 is what you want. The former can be had starting in the $150 range and the latter from $120. Otherwise, consider looking around for a used graphics card?
Ten years? It's almost guaranteed that your PC wouldn't remain competitive for that long unless you do some upgrades at least halfway down the line.
We don't recommend buying a new PC piecemeal over a long period of time. It's best to save so you can buy most if not all of the parts at the same time. Buying parts early just means you're letting the warranty and return period run out earlier before you put everything together. Who knows, you might discover that a part you bought months ago turned out to be defective and you don't find out until you actually put together the PC. Depending on how long you decide to wait for, the price of parts could change as well. You don't really gain anything by buying something early and just letting it sit around, unless you got something at a ridiculously good bargain or like looking at it.
According to what a poster said just a page or two back, VR gaming can consume quite a bit of VRAM. Having 4GB of VRAM may not be enough, especially for ten years.
I'd advise against 32GB. You absolutely don't need that unless you're planning to do intensive workstation computation or other similarly stressing stuff. Having 16GB is already enough for the foreseeable future. If you really want to, consider buying a single 16GB stick of DDR4 and just add more RAM in the future. I know, "640K ought to be enough for anybody" were famous words that turned out to be wrong, but here you can just buy 1x16GB and add more as needed to save costs and not spend unnecessarily.
The Raijintek suffers similarly to the Xigmatek in the cooling department. Both cases have to rely on a single fan to exhaust warm air out of the case.
I'd look at another power supply, maybe. The Corsair CX line is rated for operation at only 30 degrees, there are other power supplies out there that can probably withstand heat a bit better, especially if you're looking at getting a compact case where airflow and heat may be an issue.
I could be wrong, but I think Nvidia has hinted at a compact competitor to the R9 Nano. Not sure though.
More of a potential hassle if you don't clean the drivers properly while switching from Nvidia to AMD or vice-versa so go for a 970.
Also, what is your current PSU? If it's less than 600W, I would strongly recommend the 970.
Otherwise, the r390 is more than a match for the 970, especially if you want to go higher resolution than 1080p.
opticalmace
Member
The driver thing is a non-issue, might take you 5-10 minutes max.
Hmm, I see what you mean. I don't really intend to keep updating the rig constantly to keep it top of the line. And I agree that waiting means having bought the other items "at a loss". I just thought it might be a viable option for me considering I've spent alot on my SSD already. Hearing about the venting problems though makes me want to reconsider...
I felt that maxing the RAM was just a way to make sure I don't need to open up the unit after its assembly.
I wasn't aware about VRAM playing a prominent role in VR. I am tempted to looking at the Titan X but as you mentioned, considering the type of CPU I have (AMD FX-4350), I might be better off looking for some deals on that R9 380 4GB like what you mentioned earlier.
I'm still a bit scared about the whole Windows 10/ghosting my HDD to SSD drive debacle. (From what I understand, it's tied to your motherboard, but I've also heard reports about it being tied to your HDD). I was intending on using my newly acquired SSD as my OS & Illustration Programs partition, while the current HDD would be formatted to act as a Games & Other Programs partition.
MisterNoisy
Member
If you're going to be using this machine for serious workstation stuff, then 32GB and an i7 might be worthwhile. That said, if this is a gaming/media machine, 16GB and the i5 6600K will be fine.
If you're using the Nebula, you won't have space above the CPU socket for a tall CPU cooler like the Hyper 212 - the PSU is right above the motherboard, so you'll want to look at a big low-profile cooler (and consider orienting the fan to pull from the bottom because of the case layout) like the Noctua NH-L12 or the Cryorig C1. Both will likely require the use of low profile RAM.
For reasons outlined above, if this is a gaming box, I'd recommend this 16GB Corsair LPX Vengeance kit because it won't interfere with your CPU cooler, and you get to save some bread.
I'd really recommend a better PSU - the EVGA SuperNova G2/P2 lines are outstanding, and this 650W model isn't terribly expensive. A (possibly better option) would be this Silverstone, since you can likely get a short cable set for it, which would make installation easier.
How noisy R9 390X is in reality? In tests, it seems it scores badly when it comes to noise, compared to Nvidia's GPUs.
My current plan is to get a GTX 970 but i'm still considering if i should for AMD, and noise is an important consideration.
I'm willing to drop another 100 to get a 390X even... just, is it worth it?
GTX970 and R9 390 seem to be about the same price here. Unfortunate there is no Nvidia GPU between GTX 970 and GTX 980, the latter costs too much.
My current plan is to get a GTX 970 but i'm still considering if i should for AMD, and noise is an important consideration.
I'm willing to drop another 100 to get a 390X even... just, is it worth it?
GTX970 and R9 390 seem to be about the same price here. Unfortunate there is no Nvidia GPU between GTX 970 and GTX 980, the latter costs too much.
Nostremitus
Member
I just ordered a Samuel 17 and a 140mmX15mm fan to try out in my Elite 130. I'll let you guys know how it cools when it comes in and I get it installed.
ZombieSupaStar
Member
2500K, 8 gigs of ram, 970, should I bother upgrading or just wait?
I am gaming at 1080p, would like max or mostly max games like Fallout 4, near 60fps etc.
I am gaming at 1080p, would like max or mostly max games like Fallout 4, near 60fps etc.
Thanks. I'll consider updating my wishlist.
I'd like to point out that I do have the added intention of making this "gaming box" my workstation (I also do illustration, and have a multi monitor setup in mind), so doing Photoshop or any drawing program that uses lots of layers would have me needing the extra RAM.
Do I really need 650W to 750W though?
Personally I'm waiting for those Sandia Coolers to come out since they seem to be very efficient at what they do.
MisterNoisy
Member
You're probably already there when it comes to Fallout 4. I wouldn't pre-emptively upgrade unless it's to add another 8GB of RAM (because that shit's cheap as fuck now).
Not really - that's just the one I hit - This 600W unit would likely be just fine too. The reason I put the Silverstone up was because of the availability of cheap short cable sets (trust me when I say that cable management in that space is going to be fun) and the short overall depth. I also tend to go a bit overkill with PSUs, since if it shits the bed in the wrong way, it torches the rest of your machine.
I see. My intention is to get it right the first time, and never open the box again! (I would much prefer it to be 500W since I'm shooting for efficiency, but I guess the combination i7 chips and Nano/Fury X eat a lot of the power, not to mention the USB 3.0 ports).
Since I am aiming for a workstation as well (as mentioned, I really just want to have it assembled and never have to be tinkered again in the long run), is there a Corsair 32GB combo that you recommend?
ZombieSupaStar
Member
Thanks, Ill have to double check my mobo, its a ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3, and if it can take 2 dimms of 8 gigs. currently use 2x4
MisterNoisy
Member
If you're looking for efficiency, buy big on the PSU - they're happiest at low temps and low (relative to max) power draw.
As for the RAM, there aren't a lot of 16GB per DIMM options on the AsRock QVL list.
Mithos
Gold Member
CoolerMaster Silent Pro M850 (850w)
Yeah doing a nice cleaning is no problem, already had to do it once on Win 10 directly after the Win7 -> Win 10 upgrade to be able to install the Nvidia drivers properly.
Question will be, will I regret not picking up an 8gb vram card down the line...
thanks i'll look into that
edit: none of those services really apply to me the local collection even that handles hazardous waste won't take electronics.
I found a comparable PSU unit from the same brand. Will this work as well?
I also found this DIYPC HTPC-Cube-Bk Mini ITX Tower that seems alright.
MisterNoisy
Member
I can't see why not.
killertofu
Member
This is gonna fry isn't it
Welp.
Just bought ...
i7 6700k
ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING
16GB DDR4 2800MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX
250GB Samsung 850 EVO
1TB Seagate
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB - ASUS Strix ..... hope the sag isn't too bad.
Going from ...
i5 2500k
GTX 670
8GB RAM
75 GB SSD & 500 GB WD Drive
Pretty pumped.
Also bought a radiator for the CPU ... little worried. Never worked with or had one before. I mean I know its nothing heavy duty like a full water cooled system, but still makes me nervous.
Just bought ...
i7 6700k
ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING
16GB DDR4 2800MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX
250GB Samsung 850 EVO
1TB Seagate
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB - ASUS Strix ..... hope the sag isn't too bad.
Going from ...
i5 2500k
GTX 670
8GB RAM
75 GB SSD & 500 GB WD Drive
Pretty pumped.
Also bought a radiator for the CPU ... little worried. Never worked with or had one before. I mean I know its nothing heavy duty like a full water cooled system, but still makes me nervous.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Just don't put it upside down like I did without knowing, and ended up performing half of what it should have.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
What is everyone's thoughts on a GTX 950 for gaming at 1680x1050? It seems to put the 960 in a really weird spot because it's not much worse for ~$50 less, whereas the next step up from the the 960 is a colossal 970.
Would I notice a significant upgrade going from a Radeon HD 6850 to a GTX 950? And would it handle games at PS4 levels?
Would I notice a significant upgrade going from a Radeon HD 6850 to a GTX 950? And would it handle games at PS4 levels?
It should do alright provided you're not looking for highest settings and 60FPS at the same time for triple-A games, but performance will vary by the game, of course.
Yes, the GTX 950 would be quite a large bump. By how much is uncertain, because there are few resources to compare graphics cards of years past in actual gameplay benchmarks. Normally we'd refer to something like Anandtech's bench for this, but they haven't recently released any reviews for anything that isn't a flagship class GPU.
Going by best estimates, the GTX 950 should perform similarly to the GTX 760 and as you can see here the GTX 760 is quite a large bump up from your 6850. That doesn't take into account drivers or game optimizations and the comparison is not exact in any way.
As for comparisons with the PS4, the weaker GTX 750 Ti is usually thought to be able to match or exceed console quality. Eurogamer has articles for GTAV and The Witcher 3 analyzing "console-level quality" and how well that works for PCs. Going off those articles the GTX 950 should be easily able to exceed PS4 quality settings, given a decent processor and that the PC port isn't poorly optimized.
Can somone help me out im about to buy a PC in a day or 2 and I can't decide whats best. I dont want to go to high on the price before christmas but I can upgrade early next year. With this in mind is it best to get a 4460 with a gtx 780 (best performance I could see for 180 UK Pounds). Or do I go for a i7 4790k with no card for now or I may stretch it to get a 750ti. Which is best first a better CPU or GPU. Will the 4460 be ok for 5 months? I will be playing mostly CPU intensive games (like total war) first though im fine if all games will be OK at 30fps with this CPU with hopefully maxed out at 1080p.
Any ideas the build is set in stone just undecided if I go a better CPU first or GPU with the type of games I have in mind playing, with a early next year upgrade. Also is the gtx 780 the best card for performance at its price range I dont mind going to 200 UK pounds for the card but no more than that as I will only upgrade mid next year anyway.
Any ideas the build is set in stone just undecided if I go a better CPU first or GPU with the type of games I have in mind playing, with a early next year upgrade. Also is the gtx 780 the best card for performance at its price range I dont mind going to 200 UK pounds for the card but no more than that as I will only upgrade mid next year anyway.
I'd recommend an i5 4690K or an Xeon 1231 V3 depending on your budget, whether you would be doing any overclocking, and how much you could spend on an upgrade next year. Tell us your budget and we'll see if we can't figure out a decent parts list for you.
In either case, it wouldn't make a lot of sense to buy an i5 4460 and then replace that in less than half a year for no reason. Considering how effective processors usually are and how much they cost, you should be buying for a higher end processor and upgrading the graphics card as needed, not the other way around. In any case, a processor like the i5 4460 is capable enough to hit fairly high framerates, but if you want to play maxed out settings at 1080p, you'll need a strong graphics card so something like the GTX 750 Ti won't meet your needs. The cheap GTX 780 does sound like a nice option if you're on a budget.
Anandtech's Total War Attila CPU benchmark comparison tool is great for what you want to see. You'll have no chance playing something like Total War on integrated graphics (unless you spring for the rare i5 5675C or i7 5775C), while to hit your desire of maxed out graphics at 1080p and 30FPS, you will probably want that GTX 780 at minimum unless you don't mind turning down graphics settings.
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