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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.

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I am buying a new graphics card but the 980 is too expensive for me right now so I'm making the decision of getting the MSI 970 4GB. Anyone have any experience with this card? I looked up a lot of reviews and benchmarks and it's right for me, just wondering if there may be some other 970 aftermarket card that may be better or an AMD card? I have used Nvidia for years and wouldn't mind switching to AMD if there is a better choice.
 

ruttyboy

Member
Been struggling with the BIOS options of my new PC a little bit, things have moved on a lot since my last PC nine years ago. Can anybody help clear up a couple of things? My motherboard is this Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3-EU (and I've got a 6700k and DDR4-3000 RAM with an M.2 PCIe SSD in case that matters).

BIOS/UEFI
I first installed Windows 7 to upgrade to 10, in order to do so I chose 'Other O/S' and switched on 'Legacy USB' etc.

However, once 10 is installed and I choose 'Windows 8/10' in the BIOS it no longer boots past the BIOS or recognises the DVD or HDD. After a bit of investigation I think this is because, due to the upgrade, I have an installation of Win 10 that is configured for 'old' BIOS and so when switching to UEFI (assuming this is what the 'Windows 8/10' function does) it no longer functions.

Do I just need to do a clean install of 10 with it set to 'Windows 8/10' and the legacy stuff disabled before hand?

High Precision Event Timer
My research on the web about this is inconclusive with some people saying it should be switched on, some saying it creates stuttering so should be off. Is there a correct answer?

Audio DSP
This is disabled by default, but I suspect I should turn it on? My motherboard lists its audio features as:

Code:
Realtek® ALC1150 codec
    TI Burr Brown® OPA2134 operational amplifier
    Support for Sound Blaster X-Fi MB3
    High Definition Audio
    2/4/5.1/7.1-channel
    Support for S/PDIF Out

What gain is there from switching it on, if any?

Platform Power Management
No idea about this one, it's disabled at the moment, should I turn it on, and if so, which of the sub options should I enable? The manual says:

Code:
Platform Power Management
Enables or disables the Active State Power Management function (ASPM). (Default: Disabled)

PEG ASPM
Allows you to configure the ASPM mode for the device connected to the CPU PEG bus. This item is configurable only when Platform Power Management is set to Enabled. (Default: Enabled)

PCH ASPM
Allows you to configure the ASPM mode for the device connected to Chipset's PCI Express bus. This item is configurable only when Platform Power Management is set to Enabled. (Default: Enabled)

DMI Link ASPM Control
Allows you to configure the ASPM mode for both CPU side and Chipset side of the DMI link. This item is configurable only when Platform Power Management is set to Enabled. (Default: Enabled)


Any help gratefully received on this! I hate how the manual for the BIOS tells you only what the name of the thing you can switch on and off is, not why you would want to.
 
Do Be Quiet PSUs have a reputation for the Drive ports breaking?

PC wouldn't boot up because it couldn't find the storage with Windows on it, fixed it by switching the PSU port the SSD was plugged into to the spare one. Will need a new PSU if it happens again assuming the now unused port is fucked.
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Been struggling with the BIOS options of my new PC a little bit, things have moved on a lot since my last PC nine years ago. Can anybody help clear up a couple of things? My motherboard is this Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3-EU (and I've got a 6700k and DDR4-3000 RAM with an M.2 PCIe SSD in case that matters).

Audio DSP
This is disabled by default, but I suspect I should turn it on? My motherboard lists its audio features as:

Code:
Realtek® ALC1150 codec
    TI Burr Brown® OPA2134 operational amplifier
    Support for Sound Blaster X-Fi MB3
    High Definition Audio
    2/4/5.1/7.1-channel
    Support for S/PDIF Out

What gain is there from switching it on, if any?

Can't help you on the other stuff, but on my Gaming-5 board, turning on Audio DSP made the drivers for the Realtek 1150 stop working.
 

ruttyboy

Member
Can't help you on the other stuff, but on my Gaming-5 board, turning on Audio DSP made the drivers for the Realtek 1150 stop working.

Good to know, thanks. I suspect it might be for the Gaming 7 and above which seem to have discrete sound 'processors' advertised, while the 3 and 5 it just refers to a 'codec', but I really don't know much about audio.
 
For games they should perform fairly close together. The i7 6700K might actually have an advantage sometimes due to the higher stock clock speed and the fact that not all games can take advantage of 6 cores (depends on the game, game engine, optimizations, etc) so in some scenarios, it's not impossible for the quad core 6700K to slightly edge out the hexa core 5820K.


Single threaded performance between 6700K and 5820K if not overclocked = 6700K gets the nod.

However, since we're moving towards a DX12 future where multi-threaded performance is king, the 5820K will outshine it. Also, if you modestly OC the 5820K to 4ghz and above its simply on a whole different level. the 5820K with my Corsair AIO H100i GTX can hit 4.5 ghz no problem, but I keep it humming nicely at more "modest" 4.3 ghz.
 
Single threaded performance between 6700K and 5820K if not overclocked = 6700K gets the nod.

However, since we're moving towards a DX12 future where multi-threaded performance is king, the 5820K will outshine it. Also, if you modestly OC the 5820K to 4ghz and above its simply on a whole different level. the 5820K with my Corsair AIO H100i GTX can hit 4.5 ghz no problem, but I keep it humming nicely at more "modest" 4.3 ghz.
How do the two motherboards compare, ignoring the CPUs?

Do both setups support DX12?
 
How do the two motherboards compare, ignoring the CPUs?

Do both setups support DX12?


Both are new product offerings so if the mobo supports either the Haswell-E or Skylake architectures, in addition to current generation GPUs then you're all set for at least a couple years. I've never owned an MSi mobo so I can't speak to their quality, but I do own a MSi GPU and its very well built. If thats any indication then either would be a good choice.

I tend to stick with ASUS mobos as I have experience with them and have come to trust their quality. Same applies to Corsair memory.

Re: DX12

If you have a current generation CPU and GPU and are running Windows 10, then you should be DX12 compliant.
 

diamount

Banned
So I bought a CM Quickfire TK keyboard a week or so ago, and the main blacklight has already failed - that is pretty fucking annoying. Anyone else experience that?
 

kennah

Member
So I bought a CM Quickfire TK keyboard a week or so ago, and the main blacklight has already failed - that is pretty fucking annoying. Anyone else experience that?
Are you sure it isn't just turned off with the hot keys? My storm quick fire has that option.
 
Mmmm, found this baby for 5000 SEK ($590) on the Swedish equivalent of Craigslist. Keep in mind prices in Scandinavia are exorbitant -- this would be double the cost if new.

This should be a very decent rig if I upgraded the GPU, no?

Case: Corsair Carbide 200R
MB: MSI B85M-E45
CPU: Intel Core i7 4790 3.6 GHz
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
RAM: Crucial 1600 MHz 2x4GB
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB
SSD: Samsung 120GB
HDD: Seagate Desktop SSHD 1TB
PSU: Cooler Master B600 600W
Samsung DVD-reader

OS: Windows 8.1 with free upgrade to Windows 10
 
I'm looking to do an htpc build (2nd pc) but all i have is a gigabyte LGA 1155 MOBO. Would it be a good idea to get an old 1155 cpu on ebay? Or should i try to sell the MOBO for a newer chipset and go from there? Trying to minimize costs but still have a decent build.
 

RGM79

Member
Per above comment on silent CPU cases, So is this a good case then?

http://www.snapdeal.com/product/corsair-carbide-300r-cpu-cabinet/217159

Won't have any issues with air flow? I plan to update CPU, get 16GB RAM and a new GFX card (currently have 680)

Sorry, I mixed up the model numbers. The silent version of the 300R is called the 330R. Airflow seems ok, but actual performance and cooling will depend on what parts you have and how you set up the fans.

So, what's the news about graphics cards these days?

I still have not gotten a DX11 card yet. ;-;

If you want to get a new graphics card, tell us what's your budget, system specs, and desired performance.

Been struggling with the BIOS options of my new PC a little bit, things have moved on a lot since my last PC nine years ago. Can anybody help clear up a couple of things? My motherboard is this Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3-EU (and I've got a 6700k and DDR4-3000 RAM with an M.2 PCIe SSD in case that matters).

BIOS/UEFI
I first installed Windows 7 to upgrade to 10, in order to do so I chose 'Other O/S' and switched on 'Legacy USB' etc.

However, once 10 is installed and I choose 'Windows 8/10' in the BIOS it no longer boots past the BIOS or recognises the DVD or HDD. After a bit of investigation I think this is because, due to the upgrade, I have an installation of Win 10 that is configured for 'old' BIOS and so when switching to UEFI (assuming this is what the 'Windows 8/10' function does) it no longer functions.

Do I just need to do a clean install of 10 with it set to 'Windows 8/10' and the legacy stuff disabled before hand?

High Precision Event Timer
My research on the web about this is inconclusive with some people saying it should be switched on, some saying it creates stuttering so should be off. Is there a correct answer?

Audio DSP
This is disabled by default, but I suspect I should turn it on? My motherboard lists its audio features as:

Code:
Realtek® ALC1150 codec
    TI Burr Brown® OPA2134 operational amplifier
    Support for Sound Blaster X-Fi MB3
    High Definition Audio
    2/4/5.1/7.1-channel
    Support for S/PDIF Out

What gain is there from switching it on, if any?

Platform Power Management
No idea about this one, it's disabled at the moment, should I turn it on, and if so, which of the sub options should I enable? The manual says:

Code:
Platform Power Management
Enables or disables the Active State Power Management function (ASPM). (Default: Disabled)

PEG ASPM
Allows you to configure the ASPM mode for the device connected to the CPU PEG bus. This item is configurable only when Platform Power Management is set to Enabled. (Default: Enabled)

PCH ASPM
Allows you to configure the ASPM mode for the device connected to Chipset's PCI Express bus. This item is configurable only when Platform Power Management is set to Enabled. (Default: Enabled)

DMI Link ASPM Control
Allows you to configure the ASPM mode for both CPU side and Chipset side of the DMI link. This item is configurable only when Platform Power Management is set to Enabled. (Default: Enabled)

Any help gratefully received on this! I hate how the manual for the BIOS tells you only what the name of the thing you can switch on and off is, not why you would want to.

Yes, doing a clean installation of Windows 10 will fix that specific issue.

For some of your BIOS options, you may be able to find an answer in this BIOS option guide. Unfortunately some of the more specific options, I don't really know. HPET may be something you'll have to try yourself to see how well it works for you. I assume DSP stands for digital signal processing. ASPM would seem to be a power saving feature.

Do Be Quiet PSUs have a reputation for the Drive ports breaking?

PC wouldn't boot up because it couldn't find the storage with Windows on it, fixed it by switching the PSU port the SSD was plugged into to the spare one. Will need a new PSU if it happens again assuming the now unused port is fucked.

Is there a possibility that the plug just came loose? Can you check it?

Single threaded performance between 6700K and 5820K if not overclocked = 6700K gets the nod.

However, since we're moving towards a DX12 future where multi-threaded performance is king, the 5820K will outshine it. Also, if you modestly OC the 5820K to 4ghz and above its simply on a whole different level. the 5820K with my Corsair AIO H100i GTX can hit 4.5 ghz no problem, but I keep it humming nicely at more "modest" 4.3 ghz.

True, I just hope they deliver on DX12 promises of multi-threaded optimizations. IIRC DX11 advertised better support for multi-threaded processing as well.

I'm looking to do an htpc build (2nd pc) but all i have is a gigabyte LGA 1155 MOBO. Would it be a good idea to get an old 1155 cpu on ebay? Or should i try to sell the MOBO for a newer chipset and go from there? Trying to minimize costs but still have a decent build.

Depends on how much it costs and how much you can spend, obviously. Without knowing anything, it's hard to say. Socket 1155 isn't obsolete in terms of performance, as long as you get a decent processor.

Used to activate it via F1, now that only brings up the default windows hotkey.

I have that keyboard. To turn on the backlight, you need to press FN+F1. You might have just had FN lock on when you were only pressing F1 to toggle the backlight. You can set the FN lock mode by holding down on the FN key for ~3 seconds.
 

gamma

Member
Are the recommended builds in the OP still valid? I'm looking to build a PC for a friend. Budget is ~500€. I'd need CPU, MB, RAM, SSD, PSU and a case. He doesn't game so an iGPU would suffice.
 
Depends on how much it costs and how much you can spend, obviously. Without knowing anything, it's hard to say. Socket 1155 isn't obsolete in terms of performance, as long as you get a decent processor.

.

Thanks, I have a ga-z77x-ud3h.
Basically is there any reason i should sell the lga 1155 mobo to get a new one, or am i better off getting a 1155 cpu? I guess I'd like to keep the cpu cost under $150, but ideally as cheap as possible while still performing well. I'll mostly be using this Pc for steam streaming and running mame emulators if that helps.
 

RGM79

Member
Are the recommended builds in the OP still valid? I'm looking to build a PC for a friend. Budget is ~500€. I'd need CPU, MB, RAM, SSD, PSU and a case. He doesn't game so an iGPU would suffice.

What country are you in? Any specific retailers you'd prefer to order from?

Thanks, I have a ga-z77x-ud3h.
Basically is there any reason i should sell the lga 1155 mobo to get a new one, or am i better off getting a 1155 cpu? I guess I'd like to keep the cpu cost under $150, but ideally as cheap as possible while still performing well. I'll mostly be using this Pc for steam streaming and running mame emulators if that helps.

If you want to spend less, then there isn't really any reason unless you can trade or resell your motherboard to get a new motherboard at minimal cost to you. I think you can get by with an i3 processor if you want something cheaper, but i5 would be preferable for the extra performance.
 

RGM79

Member
I'm curious about the answer to this too.

Most sites/forums I glanced at today said 2x8GB is better because the CPU is reading less lines or something.

If going with Z170 or Z97, 2x8GB is preferable for dual channel mode and leaving room to upgrade. If going with X99, 4x4GB is preferable for quad channel mode. X99 still supports running two sticks in dual channel though, and most X99 ATX boards have eight RAM slots for room to upgrade.

Germany. Retailers would be up to my friend but lets assume it doesnt matter. Thanks!

He's mainly looking for a fast browsing/office/media machine.

This should be more than adequate for your needs.

1 x Crucial BX100 250GB, SATA (CT250BX100SSD1)
1 x Intel Pentium G4400, 2x 3.30GHz, boxed (BX80662G4400)
1 x G.Skill Value 4 DIMM 4GB, DDR4-2400, CL15-15-15-35 (F4-2400C15S-4GNT)
2 x Gigabyte GA-B150-HD3P
1 x Cooler Master N300 mit Sichtfenster (NSE-300-KWN1)
1 x EVGA 430W ATX 2.3 (100-W1-0430-KR)
1 x Microsoft: Windows 10 Home 64Bit, DSP/SB (deutsch) (PC) (KW9-00146)
Summe aller Bestpreise: € 499,33

I wasn't sure if you needed Windows or not, but I included it anyway to show that it'd be possible to fit it into your budget. If it's not needed, then your friend could opt for an i3 or i5 processor instead, or perhaps different parts like another case if the design of that one isn't to their liking.

Edit: Didn't notice Tacklemacain already got you a good suggestion. His build is great if your friend is looking to save money. My parts list offers more performance but costs more, of course.
 

ruttyboy

Member
Yes, doing a clean installation of Windows 10 will fix that specific issue.

For some of your BIOS options, you may be able to find an answer in this BIOS option guide. Unfortunately some of the more specific options, I don't really know. HPET may be something you'll have to try yourself to see how well it works for you. I assume DSP stands for digital signal processing. ASPM would seem to be a power saving feature.

Thanks RGM.
 
I currently have a single GTX 780 and play games at 1080p/60 on a 24" monitor.

I plan on getting a 27" monitor soon and want to game at 1440p/60. I like playing at max or close to it. Should I start to look at upgrading my 780 or should I be fine? I can't SLI due to my mini-itx board.
 
I currently have a single GTX 780 and play games at 1080p/60 on a 24" monitor.

I plan on getting a 27" monitor soon and want to game at 1440p/60. I like playing at max or close to it. Should I start to look at upgrading my 780 or should I be fine? I can't SLI due to my mini-itx board.

I would see how it goes with the 780, and if you're not satisfied then upgrade. You might find that it holds out on you until Pascal next year. If not, then you could always grab something from Maxwell. If you mainly play older games and don't mind turning down some settings I think a 780 could work out.
 
I would see how it goes with the 780, and if you're not satisfied then upgrade. You might find that it holds out on you until Pascal next year. If not, then you could always grab something from Maxwell. If you mainly play older games and don't mind turning down some settings I think a 780 could work out.

Ok thanks. I think I'll try to hold out and wait for Pascal. No need to upgrade twice within a year. I'll just turn down some settings if needed.
 
If going with Z170 or Z97, 2x8GB is preferable for dual channel mode and leaving room to upgrade. If going with X99, 4x4GB is preferable for quad channel mode. X99 still supports running two sticks in dual channel though, and most X99 ATX boards have eight RAM slots for room to upgrade.
Well I'm leaning toward the 5920K/X99 because NCIXUS only offers the 6700K in a bundle with the MSI Z170A Gaming M7 board and I've heard better things about Asus boards. Also it looks like their stock of that bundle is really slim and I don't want to delay getting my PC even longer.

Anyway, found this article which helped clear some things up. Basically, the tester found that quad channel is still technically better, but you'd be hard pressed to find a task where it actually makes a significant difference.

I'll still go quad channel though, because why not? Thanks for sparking the light for me to investigate further, though!
 
Mmmm, found this baby for 5000 SEK ($590) on the Swedish equivalent of Craigslist. Keep in mind prices in Scandinavia are exorbitant -- this would be double the cost if new.

This should be a very decent rig if I upgraded the GPU, no?

Case: Corsair Carbide 200R
MB: MSI B85M-E45
CPU: Intel Core i7 4790 3.6 GHz
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
RAM: Crucial 1600 MHz 2x4GB
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB
SSD: Samsung 120GB
HDD: Seagate Desktop SSHD 1TB
PSU: Cooler Master B600 600W
Samsung DVD-reader

OS: Windows 8.1 with free upgrade to Windows 10

I got a fairly equivalent setup for 400$ in US about 2 months ago and I get that was a steal, only difference were brands, case, I have an Asus strix 760 and i4770k.

It ran everything old great at 1080p maxed and even MGS V the phantom pain at 1080p with everything maxed except post processing and those pesky volumetric clouds.

If the markup is high that sounds reasonable, maybe some others with better knowledge can chime in on the near future but my experience so far with my setup has been positive.
 

v0yce

Member
Bit off topic but are the Alienware Alpha i3s worth the $399 they're asking on Amazon?

I have a bunch of Amazon credit and as a console only gamer I'd be interested in some PC exclusives and goofing around with emulators. Can the i3 handle Dolphin and PS2 emulation?
 
Here's an interesting question, though - on an X99 platform, would you be better off using dual channel 3600MHz DDR4 or quad channel 2800MHz DDR4?


edit: actually I'm not sure if the motherboard I'm looking at even supports 3600MHz...
 

RGM79

Member
Here's an interesting question, though - on an X99 platform, would you be better off using dual channel 3600MHz DDR4 or quad channel 2800MHz DDR4?

edit: actually I'm not sure if the motherboard I'm looking at even supports 3600MHz...

Depends on what you're doing. Few to no games are bottlenecked by RAM, so it barely matters for gaming performance.

Bit off topic but are the Alienware Alpha i3s worth the $399 they're asking on Amazon?

I have a bunch of Amazon credit and as a console only gamer I'd be interested in some PC exclusives and goofing around with emulators. Can the i3 handle Dolphin and PS2 emulation?

It can, just don't expect anything too amazing (like those people playing Wii/GC/PS2 games at higher graphics settings than original) and just know that it may struggle with some games.

An i5 processor is generally recommended for Dolphin and PCSX2, but even the Pentium G3258 isn't too bad when it comes to games with either emulator [1][2] because both Dolphin's FAQ and PCSX2's FAQ state that they really only need two CPU cores. Therefore, an i3 processor should be just fine.
 

gamma

Member

Thanks! I think I'd rather go with the Skylake build though. The system should last him a while and since Skylake just came out it's perfect timing.

This should be more than adequate for your needs.
1 x Crucial BX100 250GB, SATA (CT250BX100SSD1)
1 x Intel Pentium G4400, 2x 3.30GHz, boxed (BX80662G4400)
1 x G.Skill Value 4 DIMM 4GB, DDR4-2400, CL15-15-15-35 (F4-2400C15S-4GNT)
2 x Gigabyte GA-B150-HD3P
1 x Cooler Master N300 mit Sichtfenster (NSE-300-KWN1)
1 x EVGA 430W ATX 2.3 (100-W1-0430-KR)
1 x Microsoft: Windows 10 Home 64Bit, DSP/SB (deutsch) (PC) (KW9-00146)
Summe aller Bestpreise: € 499,33

I wasn't sure if you needed Windows or not, but I included it anyway to show that it'd be possible to fit it into your budget. If it's not needed, then your friend could opt for an i3 or i5 processor instead, or perhaps different parts like another case if the design of that one isn't to their liking.

Edit: Didn't notice Tacklemacain already got you a good suggestion. His build is great if your friend is looking to save money. My parts list offers more performance but costs more, of course.

Thank you, I had a similar build in mind. Would a G4500 or maybe an i3 be worth it for the extra clock speed and iGPU?
 

Rootbeer

Banned
Ugh so disappointed in my timing. After finalizing my build I could not find two key components from my preferred retailers (waited two days for stock to come in too) and so I ordered them both from NCIXUS.com because they were listed on pcpartpicker.

A day after I placed the order... now suddenly they are both in stock on both newegg and amazon with faster shipping. Meanwhile NCIXUS has not even shipped and tells me they will ship by Monday.

And their website is SLOW as molasses, I've never seen the like in 2015 for an e-retailer. Bleh.

So, I don't know how many of you have used them but I'm kind of regretting it right now. Just hope I get the items before the second week of November.
 

Arrrammis

Member
So, I'm looking at starting my first complete PC build, and I'm not sure where to start looking at parts. I've looked around at the recommended stuff in the OP and on Reddit, and I'm starting to get a clearer picture. That said, I'm still not totally sure what to do for the actual build and a monitor. I'd like to spend <$1200 between the build and the monitor, any recommendations? I'm in the USA if vendors make a huge difference.

Also, you guys are just awesome. Thanks for all this great info!
 
Why are all the SSDs in the OP SATA? I don't know much about M.2 SSDs but the read/write speeds are impressive.

Yet, I don't see other types of SSDs in many builds, so what am I missing?
 
Why are all the SSDs in the OP SATA? I don't know much about M.2 SSDs but the read/write speeds are impressive.

Yet, I don't see other types of SSDs in many builds, so what am I missing?

They are faster than SATA but you have to keep an eye open on your mobo specifications since it is often the case that they share lanes with PCIe or other things that would be disabled if you are using the M.2 port. Building from scratch is a good investment, but before Haswell-E and Skylake came out M.2 ports already built on mobos were not the common thing, so i guess it is just a matter of time.
 

BBboy20

Member
If you want to get a new graphics card, tell us what's your budget, system specs, and desired performance.
I was deadset on getting a 970 this spring but other things came about. Finding out the Doom 4 beta is coming soon, I was reminded I have not upgraded yet (was suppose to do so when Witcher 3 came out but I have yet to beat Witcher 1), so, since this is long over due, I was wondering any new developments have occurred in the world of GFX cards that I might consider or evaluate before getting a 970. Is it still the best-bang-for-your-buck card despite the 3.5VRAM?

I've been almost ready for DX11+ games since 2011 thanks to my Intel i2500k CPU and 8GB RAM since I've come to discover everything else seems ready for the foreseeable future despite how old my CPU is going by reading about current CPU developments earlier this year.
 

MrOogieBoogie

BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Why won't my fans turn off when I set my PC to sleep mode?

My motherboard is a Biostar TZ68+ if it matters, and I am running Windows 10.
 

RGM79

Member
Thanks! I think I'd rather go with the Skylake build though. The system should last him a while and since Skylake just came out it's perfect timing.

Thank you, I had a similar build in mind. Would a G4500 or maybe an i3 be worth it for the extra clock speed and iGPU?

If he's just using it for what you said earlier, then the G4500 or i3 processor isn't really needed. Older generation Intel processors can already do 4K video with little problem on their integrated graphics already. The G4500 is only a very tiny step up from the G4400, it's within 5% of the same performance. The i3 would be a bigger boost in performance, and if your friend is worried about performance while having a bunch of apps open at the same time, then yes I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to go up to the i3 processor as it'll handle that a bit better than the Pentium.

I was deadset on getting a 970 this spring but other things came about. Finding out the Doom 4 beta is coming soon, I was reminded I have not upgraded yet (was suppose to do so when Witcher 3 came out but I have yet to beat Witcher 1), so, since this is long over due, I was wondering any new developments have occurred in the world of GFX cards that I might consider or evaluate before getting a 970. Is it still the best-bang-for-your-buck card despite the 3.5VRAM?

I've been almost ready for DX11+ games since 2011 thanks to my Intel i2500k CPU and 8GB RAM since I've come to discover everything else seems ready for the foreseeable future despite how old my CPU is going by reading about current CPU developments earlier this year.

Yes, the GTX 970 is still quite good. Otherwise consider the R9 390. Nothing new has come out to change that, and Nvidia won't be releasing any new graphics cards until sometime in the middle of next year.
 

BBboy20

Member
Yes, the GTX 970 is still quite good. Otherwise consider the R9 390. Nothing new has come out to change that, and Nvidia won't be releasing any new graphics cards until sometime in the middle of next year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9cKZiJw6Pk

So 8GB of VRAM was accomplished in today's line-ups recently? I remember reading all the debates about rather more VRAM was necessary for the future considering people were talking about PC versions were going to eventually eat it all up once devs really get used to making current consoles. I'm not a resolution guy so maybe additional VRAM is unnecessary for the forseeable future.
 

xkramz

Member
i have a lga1155 MB and i5-3470

i want to upgrade to a i7-3770K but i cant find it anywhere. any help with this?

or any i7 ivybridge (preferably unlocked version )
 

ruttyboy

Member
Had a very strange thing happen last night. I reinstalled Windows 10 and it's supposed to automatically remember my hardware config and activate without me doing anything. I went to check and it said my key wasn't valid and it had been 'blocked' and I should either talk to whoever I bought the key from or buy a new one. I wasn't going to spend another £100 because their software is buggy so I had a text chat with someone called Juanito at MS Support. He asked for the Windows 7 key I had used to upgrade, was reticent to do so, but figured, if all this goes wrong my Win7 key is outdated and useless anyway. He remoted into my PC and looked at a few screens, but nothing I hadn't already told him (can they look at things without me seeing it on my screen in Win10?). After a while someone else remoted in at the same time (presumably a colleague), then after a lot of inactivity he asked this:

J: hello sir can you give please a phone no. for documentation purporses

Me: Why do you need my phone number?

J: for documentation purposes only sir

J: also including full first name

J: we are making documentation for the assistance that we are doing to you cvomputer

Me: I'm logged into my MS account, surely you can use that or get the info from there? I'm very nervous about giving out my personal information.

J: just trust me please ,


After which I sat there for a bit deciding what to do and he went and pasted a key into my system and a notepad file for me before going silent. I awkwardly made my excuses and closed the chat window and Logmein.

So, I think I've ended up with a Windows 10 key for nothing and with no explanation. Is there a way to find out whether it's a retail or OEM key?

Still, I was expecting them to tell me to go buy a key, so for them to resolve it with the minimum of fuss, and fairly quickly too, was a very pleasant surprise.
 

LilJoka

Member
Had a very strange thing happen last night. I reinstalled Windows 10 and it's supposed to automatically remember my hardware config and activate without me doing anything. I went to check and it said my key wasn't valid and it had been 'blocked' and I should either talk to whoever I bought the key from or buy a new one. I wasn't going to spend another £100 because their software is buggy so I had a text chat with someone called Juanito at MS Support. He asked for the Windows 7 key I had used to upgrade, was reticent to do so, but figured, if all this goes wrong my Win7 key is outdated and useless anyway. He remoted into my PC and looked at a few screens, but nothing I hadn't already told him (can they look at things without me seeing it on my screen in Win10?). After a while someone else remoted in at the same time (presumably a colleague), then after a lot of inactivity he asked this:




After which I sat there for a bit deciding what to do and he went and pasted a key into my system and a notepad file for me before going silent. I awkwardly made my excuses and closed the chat window and Logmein.

So, I think I've ended up with a Windows 10 key for nothing and with no explanation. Is there a way to find out whether it's a retail or OEM key?

Still, I was expecting them to tell me to go buy a key, so for them to resolve it with the minimum of fuss, and fairly quickly too, was a very pleasant surprise.

You can download a PID checker to identify the key type.
 

kennah

Member
i have a lga1155 MB and i5-3470

i want to upgrade to a i7-3770K but i cant find it anywhere. any help with this?

or any i7 ivybridge (preferably unlocked version )
Discontinued processor is discontinued. Look for one that is used locally. It's also the highest chip that can go in to socket 1155, so they don't come up for sale very often.
 
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