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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
I'm putting together a new build and I want to go as high end as possible (without going completely overboard) except for the GPU. This is not going to be a gaming PC. Mostly heavy audio work and other CPU intensive stuff.
I have this so far (mostly by going off what's in the OP):
I'll be using the GPU and DVD drive from my old system.
There seems to be a nation wide shortage of the 6700K though. They are out of stock in all of Switzerland and there's no estimate anywhere on when new stock will arrive. Should I go with a Haswell? The 5820 or even the 5930? Are these potentially faster then the Skylake anyway? (Of course I'd have to change the board too etc.)
My other big concern here is quietness. I've read through everything in the OP and the recent posts here, but I would still appreciate some input from people who have experience with quieter builds. Some PSUs I've used in the past have turned out to be surprisingly noisy, even though it had not been mentioned anywhere online. How is the CM V750? Could I go with something quieter? Same with the CPU heatsink. I just wanna go as quiet as possible here. I picked the Fractal case based on user reviews and on what's in the OP. But again, if anyone has a better pick, I'm all ears.
I have this so far (mostly by going off what's in the OP):
I'll be using the GPU and DVD drive from my old system.
There seems to be a nation wide shortage of the 6700K though. They are out of stock in all of Switzerland and there's no estimate anywhere on when new stock will arrive. Should I go with a Haswell? The 5820 or even the 5930? Are these potentially faster then the Skylake anyway? (Of course I'd have to change the board too etc.)
My other big concern here is quietness. I've read through everything in the OP and the recent posts here, but I would still appreciate some input from people who have experience with quieter builds. Some PSUs I've used in the past have turned out to be surprisingly noisy, even though it had not been mentioned anywhere online. How is the CM V750? Could I go with something quieter? Same with the CPU heatsink. I just wanna go as quiet as possible here. I picked the Fractal case based on user reviews and on what's in the OP. But again, if anyone has a better pick, I'm all ears.
justsomeguy
Member
This is firing an awful lot of red flags for me.
Where did you see the message that your key isn't valid? How did you contact Microsoft support? Why would they be remoting in to your system? Do you have a transcript or any screenshots or a list of web addresses?
If you have any of that, or any more details of what happened (you mentioned LogMeIn) then I'll email around work and see if anyone else agrees with me that this sounds really suspicious - as if you've somehow been connected to someone who isn't MS support.
It did for me too at the time, but I never gave them any info (other than my Win 7 key) and I've ended up with a key that activated my system, so if they are criminals they're not the best.
I installed Win 7, activated it, upgraded to Win 10, confirmed that was activated and then clean installed Win 10 again (hitting 'skip' whenever it asked for a key). I installed all my drivers before letting it connect to the net to stop Windows update, and when I went to check (via the settings menu) if it had auto activated it said the key was not valid with 'Error code: 0xC004C003'.
I initially got in touch (via text chat) by going to the MS website and hitting 'customer support' in the grey box on this page, which forced me to log in to my MS account (for my 360, it's not linked to my PC).
The page he asked me to go to for remote access was this one: http://support.microsoft.com/help
I have the full logs from the text chat and from the Logmein app, if they would be useful, I could PM them to you.
I'm still suspicious myself as it seems too good to be true, but I can't see how I could have been compromised, I hadn't even been on the web from a new partition, clean install.
justsomeguy
Member
Ahhh ok - it seems pretty legit then, since they directed you via real Microsoft.com pages. I had the same wonder about how you'd even in the slightest bit get compromised - other than some dns hijack from another machine on your network or something extremely unlikely like that.
Red flag stand-down. Good customer service
Ahhh ok - it seems pretty legit then, since they directed you via real Microsoft.com pages. I had the same wonder about how you'd even in the slightest bit get compromised - other than some dns hijack from another machine on your network or something extremely unlikely like that.
Red flag stand-down. Good customer service
Thanks for the concern, I can stop worrying a bit now
MisterNoisy
Member
I'm putting together a new build and I want to go as high end as possible (without going completely overboard) except for the GPU. This is not going to be a gaming PC. Mostly heavy audio work and other CPU intensive stuff.
I have this so far (mostly by going off what's in the OP):
I'll be using the GPU and DVD drive from my old system.
There seems to be a nation wide shortage of the 6700K though. They are out of stock in all of Switzerland and there's no estimate anywhere on when new stock will arrive. Should I go with a Haswell? The 5820 or even the 5930? Are these potentially faster then the Skylake anyway? (Of course I'd have to change the board too etc.)
My other big concern here is quietness. I've read through everything in the OP and the recent posts here, but I would still appreciate some input from people who have experience with quieter builds. Some PSUs I've used in the past have turned out to be surprisingly noisy, even though it had not been mentioned anywhere online. How is the CM V750? Could I go with something quieter? Same with the CPU heatsink. I just wanna go as quiet as possible here. I picked the Fractal case based on user reviews and on what's in the OP. But again, if anyone has a better pick, I'm all ears.
I've never had an issue with a loud PSU, so I don't have much for you there. As for the CPU heatsink, the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 is the quietest one I've ever used. It's big, expensive and a pain in the ass to install, but when I first turned the PC on (assembled outside the case), I had to visually confirm that the fans were running.
I have an i5 4750k oc to 4ghz and 8gb ram. Currently using a 5870 1gb card though.
I'm starting to think about upgrading the card, want something substantial for cheap, $250 is as high as I'm looking to go.
I'm also wondering though if I'm better off just getting a ps4 though? Leaning against that though, so please recommend what a good next card would be in my price range? Is there something around the corner I should be waiting for?
I'm starting to think about upgrading the card, want something substantial for cheap, $250 is as high as I'm looking to go.
I'm also wondering though if I'm better off just getting a ps4 though? Leaning against that though, so please recommend what a good next card would be in my price range? Is there something around the corner I should be waiting for?
qa_engineer
Member
You have to seriously consider a couple things such as: Will I continue to be able to play PC games at reasonable settings? Does the PS4 offer the games or types of games I want to play?
I have both a PS4 and PC and it covers all of my gaming needs but if I had to choose upgrading my PC over PS4 thats a tough call.
I say get a PS4 then save up for an Nvidia or AMD HBM2 GPU
I don't think you can dual boot steam OS, not easily at least. You're better off running Steam in big picture mode.
The Lamonster
Member
I'm in the same boat as you - wait for the 6700K or go with the 5820K.I'm putting together a new build and I want to go as high end as possible (without going completely overboard) except for the GPU. This is not going to be a gaming PC. Mostly heavy audio work and other CPU intensive stuff.
I have this so far (mostly by going off what's in the OP):
I'll be using the GPU and DVD drive from my old system.
There seems to be a nation wide shortage of the 6700K though. They are out of stock in all of Switzerland and there's no estimate anywhere on when new stock will arrive. Should I go with a Haswell? The 5820 or even the 5930? Are these potentially faster then the Skylake anyway? (Of course I'd have to change the board too etc.)
My other big concern here is quietness. I've read through everything in the OP and the recent posts here, but I would still appreciate some input from people who have experience with quieter builds. Some PSUs I've used in the past have turned out to be surprisingly noisy, even though it had not been mentioned anywhere online. How is the CM V750? Could I go with something quieter? Same with the CPU heatsink. I just wanna go as quiet as possible here. I picked the Fractal case based on user reviews and on what's in the OP. But again, if anyone has a better pick, I'm all ears.
Curious why you are getting the XL case. I think all your parts would fit in the normal size.
MisterNoisy
Member
A 4GB R9 380 should be fine at 1080p and can be had for under $200. Alternately, if you're in the US, I have a 7950 I'm pulling from my smaller gaming/HTPC rig you can have for free.
Thanks, that sounds great. My browsing history shows I've already visited the official Dark Rock Pro 3 site, so I must have considered it already for my previous build. Definitely putting it on my list.
Good point! It's just the one listed in the OP and when I searched for it in my shop it came with glowing reviews, so I added it without thinking twice about it. But they do have the midi tower one as well, so I'll swap for that one! I wasn't even really sure if that would be my final case tbh, just added it to the list to get a sense of the total price.
So you can't get a 6700K where you are either?
The Lamonster
Member
Make sure you get the R5 to have the latest Define iteration.
I'm actually in a weird situation - planning to have NCIXUS assemble the PC for me so I'm limited to what they have in stock. Amazon US looks to have plenty 6700Ks; sounds like you're not in the US but maybe it's possible to import one?
From everything I've read though, the 5820K is an adequate substitute for the newer 6700K, especially if you plan on overclocking it. Unfortunately X99 boards seem to be more expensive than Z170 boards. I'm only looking at Asus, though.
Well, 8GB of VRAM is more common thing now, but it's still not really necessary. Games at 1080p won't really use more than 4GB for now. Console game development won't have much of a bearing on how much VRAM PC games will use up. A GTX 960 is already more than capable of cranking out graphics that will outperform XB1/PS4 but the car itself only has 2 or 4 GB of VRAM. Games at higher resolution like 1440p and 4K can and will make more use of VRAM, but even cards like the R9 390X aren't suited for 4K unless you're running a pair of them, and even then it's not quite ideal.
I'm not sure how well it works since I've never tried it, but it was always possible to dual-boot it with Windows since it's just a linux distribution. I guess you're not knowledgeable about it and wanted an official dual-booting option though? In that case you'll be pleased to know that SteamOS has had that feature since January 2014, including a Windows-based guided installer.
The Lamonster
Member
So if I'm going X99, my SSD should be M.2, right?
Any specific recommendations?
Any specific recommendations?
BrettWeir
Member
Is it worth it to build a new rig for the purpose of VR now that Skylake is out? From what I'm reading, people are having no issues running DK2 smooth using 4670k's.
My current specs are (Win10):
i5-4670k
R9 280x
16GB DDR3 1600
Asus Gryphon Z87
Was thinking about:
i5-6600k
R9 280x (keeping for now)
16GB DDR4 2666
Asus ROG Maximus VIII
GC will be upgraded next year. I'll admit that I have other motives in putting the i5 (etc) into a Silverstone case I have lying around for an HTPC, but really.....would there be much of a difference in performance? Enough to warrant around $500?
My current specs are (Win10):
i5-4670k
R9 280x
16GB DDR3 1600
Asus Gryphon Z87
Was thinking about:
i5-6600k
R9 280x (keeping for now)
16GB DDR4 2666
Asus ROG Maximus VIII
GC will be upgraded next year. I'll admit that I have other motives in putting the i5 (etc) into a Silverstone case I have lying around for an HTPC, but really.....would there be much of a difference in performance? Enough to warrant around $500?
Not really because you'll be gaining only around ~10% more performance for a cost of $500, but I guess if you wanted to move your existing parts into a second PC, that's a bit more justified. What will you be using your HTPC for? If it's games then feel free to use the i5 4670K, but if it's only for videos and the like, then even a Pentium will do that job just fine.
You could also buy a cheaper motherboard in place of the Maximus and save money there for no drop in performance.
No need for it to be M.2 unless you wanted the speed. As usual, I recommend looking at Samsung and Crucial for SSDs. Samsung has their SM951 but I'm not sure if that's really available if at all, but there is that new 950 Pro M.2 model. Crucial's BX100 and MX200 lines should be available in M.2 as well.
The Lamonster
Member
I am hoping to go from cold to Windows desktop in ~10 seconds. Is that possible with SATA or would it have to be M.2?
BrettWeir
Member
Thanks for the incredibly fast response! I'd just be using the HTPC to put my Bluray collection into. I wouldn't game on it. I could definitely see it being incredible overkill for a simple HTPC.
Maybe I should just invest in a decent monitor instead, even though my current card won't do Freesync.
Thanks again!
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
Hey guys what is the best video capture card in the market? What do you recommend? El gato??
It's possible with M.2 SSDs. In this review of the Samsung SM951, they were able to boot to Windows in 7~8 seconds. BIOS settings would also make a difference, you'd want to disable unnecessary features like any ports you don't use (serial, parallel, etc), enable faster booting options like skipping USB initialization, etc.
No problem.
abracadaver
Member
I want a 144hz monitor for CS:GO
I have an AMD R290 GPU
I heard IPS panels look way better than the TN panels but there is only 1 monitor available that is ips with freesync and the reviews are full of people that have light bleeding or dead pixels and had to replace the monitor multiple times. also the freesync is only from 30 - 90hz (its the asus monitor). Are TN panels really that bad? Or would getting a gsync monitor work as well? Or wait for a new monitor coming out in the future?
I have an AMD R290 GPU
I heard IPS panels look way better than the TN panels but there is only 1 monitor available that is ips with freesync and the reviews are full of people that have light bleeding or dead pixels and had to replace the monitor multiple times. also the freesync is only from 30 - 90hz (its the asus monitor). Are TN panels really that bad? Or would getting a gsync monitor work as well? Or wait for a new monitor coming out in the future?
Sorry, I'm not much of a monitor guy. I can tell you that G-Sync will not work for you though as it only works for Nvidia cards.
Unfortunately I can't import. I'm in Switzerland, which is not part of the EU, so I'd be paying crazy customs fees ordering something as expensive as a CPU from abroad.
What's the consensus in here, is the 5820K a decent substitute for the 6700K? And DDR4 RAM is only for Skylake, yeah?
Jag
Member
I'm looking for a decent 27" gaming monitor. IPS only and don't really care about Gsync, don't play many shooters.
Is this a decent gaming monitor for $279? CROSSOVER 2795 QHD AHIPS LED 27" 2560X1440 LG AH-IPS. I know it's a cheap Korean panel, but if it's a decent monitor, I don't really care. Just something that will look good on screen.
I was thinking about a Rog Swift, but the prices are still higher than I want to play. I'm running a new i5-6600k with a Geforce 970.
Is this a decent gaming monitor for $279? CROSSOVER 2795 QHD AHIPS LED 27" 2560X1440 LG AH-IPS. I know it's a cheap Korean panel, but if it's a decent monitor, I don't really care. Just something that will look good on screen.
I was thinking about a Rog Swift, but the prices are still higher than I want to play. I'm running a new i5-6600k with a Geforce 970.
The Lamonster
Member
Is this what a dead CPU looks like, or is this normal for something that's a few years old?
Trying to revive my dead PC and I am about to swap out the PSU...
Trying to revive my dead PC and I am about to swap out the PSU...
Gumbie
Member
Not sure what you mean by "dead cpu looks like". If you're talking about the gray substance that's just thermal paste.
zeroeffect
Member
Quick question guys. So, I've had these TDR error problems for months now. Only seems to pop up while gaming. I have an EVGA GTX 980 ACX 2.0 SC(factory overclocked no more) and it would give me the TDR errors in gaming sometimes. I got so tired of it I stopped playing games on my PC over the summer because I read Nvidia was having issues with Microsoft changing some things in Windows win W10 came out. I did so many tests on my hardware and couldn't find the issue. I RMA my card twice and the errors still happened. Checked RAM, CPU, mobo, psu, drivers, reformat, bios, etc. etc. etc. pretty much everything. Rig is only a year old at most.
When I underclocked all those GPUs they ran fine. I installed the newest driver and ran debug mode. Just like the previous GPUs it does not crash when I underclock. That's why I sent my previous 2 back to EVGA because I thought it was an unstable factory OC.
So my question to you guys what could the problem possibly be outside the GPU and PSU if underclock allows stability on you GPU? Is there anything else I'm missing here because I checked everything hardware related and I'm thinking EVGA's RMA department is just incompetent. I have a G-Series Seasonic 750w less than a year old. 9/10 times if a GPU is running stable when you underclock...it's usually GPU unless the higher power draw is causing a problem in the PSU. I'm not sure if it could be anything else. Just curious for opinions here because it pretty much narrows it down for me. Need it fixed before Fallout 4. Biggest headache ever to troubleshoot. Not uncommon for these errors to pop up when you overclock but my third gpu in a row with factory OC settings getting the errors until I underclock? Something ain't right especially since the first one ran fine until a few months back. So, I'm thinking either I'm getting really unlucky with GPUs or my PSU has a problem that's very hard to replicate. Thinking about replacing PSU but I really don't want to spend the money if I don't have to.
Also, I used PSU testers and put load on the PSU while doing it. Checked out fine on voltages. I'm aware these are not reliable but it's all I have to test to see if PSU is doing okay. If only I had the tools a PSU manufacturer had *sob*.
When I underclocked all those GPUs they ran fine. I installed the newest driver and ran debug mode. Just like the previous GPUs it does not crash when I underclock. That's why I sent my previous 2 back to EVGA because I thought it was an unstable factory OC.
So my question to you guys what could the problem possibly be outside the GPU and PSU if underclock allows stability on you GPU? Is there anything else I'm missing here because I checked everything hardware related and I'm thinking EVGA's RMA department is just incompetent. I have a G-Series Seasonic 750w less than a year old. 9/10 times if a GPU is running stable when you underclock...it's usually GPU unless the higher power draw is causing a problem in the PSU. I'm not sure if it could be anything else. Just curious for opinions here because it pretty much narrows it down for me. Need it fixed before Fallout 4. Biggest headache ever to troubleshoot. Not uncommon for these errors to pop up when you overclock but my third gpu in a row with factory OC settings getting the errors until I underclock? Something ain't right especially since the first one ran fine until a few months back. So, I'm thinking either I'm getting really unlucky with GPUs or my PSU has a problem that's very hard to replicate. Thinking about replacing PSU but I really don't want to spend the money if I don't have to.
Also, I used PSU testers and put load on the PSU while doing it. Checked out fine on voltages. I'm aware these are not reliable but it's all I have to test to see if PSU is doing okay. If only I had the tools a PSU manufacturer had *sob*.
The Lamonster
Member
So I need a new PC for gaming. The thing is that it's my first time building one and I have little knowledge about this stuff so I'm at a loss. My idea is to be able to play most games (if possible) comfortably at 1080p, 30FPS is fine. I have a budget of ~650 (Spain here).
Messing around I've come with this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (166.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (85.26 @ Amazon Espana)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (48.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (46.20 @ Amazon Espana)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 2GB Dual WindForce Video Card (160.95 @ Amazon Espana)
Case: Cooler Master N300 ATX Mid Tower Case (46.70 @ Amazon Espana)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (51.84 @ Amazon Espana)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer (16.49 @ Amazon Espana)
Total: 621.44
I'm not really sure about my motherboard and case choices, but I think the processor and GPU should be alright? I appreciate any kind of help, I want to get the most out of my budget.
Messing around I've come with this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (166.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (85.26 @ Amazon Espana)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (48.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (46.20 @ Amazon Espana)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 2GB Dual WindForce Video Card (160.95 @ Amazon Espana)
Case: Cooler Master N300 ATX Mid Tower Case (46.70 @ Amazon Espana)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply (51.84 @ Amazon Espana)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0 DVD/CD Writer (16.49 @ Amazon Espana)
Total: 621.44
I'm not really sure about my motherboard and case choices, but I think the processor and GPU should be alright? I appreciate any kind of help, I want to get the most out of my budget.
irfaanator
Banned
so Im wondering if this is the best place for this question. Based on advice given to me last time, I installed afterburner and have been keeping tabs on my gpu clock/mem speed and temp/fan. I've noticed that after I wake the computer up after sleep the gpu idles at 500 mhz and 1250 mhz clock when it's set to be at 300/150 mhz idle. I have no idea why it's idling at that high of a clock speed and its keeping the temp at 50 degs when it should be 10 degs colder if its at 300/150. Any reason why this is? I've heard this is due to video playback but it will idle at these speeds even when nothing is opened except afterburner
Your build isn't bad, but there are some things to tweak about it to make for a stronger PC and better use of your money.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (€166.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Motherboard: ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€52.70 @ Amazon Espana)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€39.99 @ Amazon Espana)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€46.20 @ Amazon Espana)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card (€217.00 @ Amazon Espana)
Case: Cooler Master N300 ATX Mid Tower Case (€46.70 @ Amazon Espana)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (€64.80 @ Amazon Espana)
Total: €633.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-23 22:00 CEST+0200
I made the following changes:
- cheaper motherboard model that is still adequate for your needs
- cheaper RAM that is rated for the same speed
- stronger graphics card to more comfortably meet your gaming requirements
- higher wattage power supply to better support any future upgrades you may make
- removed the DVD drive, as it's generally not required any more for computers, but you can add it back to the parts list if you like
Wowfunhappy
Member
So I just installed a Rosewill RNX-N300X Wireless PCI Card that MisterNoisy sent me (because he's awesome!). My computer now has antennas on the back of it, which I find completely hilarious for some reason I can't quite explain.
Unfortunately, the new card doesn't seem to be getting picked up by Windows at all, even after installing the drivers. What would the most common cause(s) of this be? I'm assuming I did something wrong.
Unfortunately, the new card doesn't seem to be getting picked up by Windows at all, even after installing the drivers. What would the most common cause(s) of this be? I'm assuming I did something wrong.
MisterNoisy
Member
Thanks! I'm just glad it arrived in one piece (USPS can be kinda rough on packages). Do the LEDs on the back of the card light up at all? Also, which version of Windows are you using?
Rebel Leader
THE POWER OF BUTTERSCOTCH BOTTOMS
My current specs:
I'm wondering what GPU and CPU I should get next. (which means I also may need a new PSU)
I was thinking of getting this R9 390
looking to spend around or less than $600
I'm wondering what GPU and CPU I should get next. (which means I also may need a new PSU)
I was thinking of getting this R9 390
looking to spend around or less than $600
Wowfunhappy
Member
Windows 10. Card does indeed not light up at all (hadn't realized it was supposed to).
MisterNoisy
Member
Hmm. Does a new adapter of any sort show up in the Device Manager?
Wowfunhappy
Member
Nope. I THINK I must have installed it wrong, although it slides in so easily, I'm not sure what I could have done...
MisterNoisy
Member
Maybe reboot and check your BIOS to make sure that there isn't a setting to disable Legacy PCI slots on the board?
Wowfunhappy
Member
Just checked--unless I'm missing something, there's no option to disable PCI. And I don't THINK I am because I literally went through every non-overclocking-related menu.
While I was in the BIOS, I DID check MSI's "Board Explorer" program. It doesn't list anything plugged in to the PCI slot at all...
MisterNoisy
Member
Maybe try the other PCI slot then - it could be a dead card, but it's never been used, so I hope that's not it.
Wowfunhappy
Member
No dice :/ In some ways I'm actually glad, since I would have been pretty annoyed if one of my PCI slots was broken.
So is the card just a dud then? That's mildly disappointing, although I guess I can't complain too much.
MisterNoisy
Member
Well crap in a hat. Sorry it didn't work out for you.
Wowfunhappy
Member
Well, thanks anyway.
In other news, does anyone have recommendations for wireless PCI cards? I actually do need one, and I think I'd prefer something internal over USB.
In other news, does anyone have recommendations for wireless PCI cards? I actually do need one, and I think I'd prefer something internal over USB.
MisterNoisy
Member
Well, thanks anyway.
In other news, does anyone have recommendations for wireless PCI cards? I actually do need one, and I think I'd prefer something internal over USB.
I'm using this TP-Link Archer T8E, and I couldn't be more happy with it. You have to manually install the Win 7-8.1 drivers using the Device Manager from the website, but it works great once you do.
Hello guys,
My last build was in 2011, 2500k/GTX580, though still performing like a beast, but I figured it's time for an upgrade to enjoy the beauty of PC games more lol.
Here are the parts that I currently in mind: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/h7dX6h
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($169.80 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($181.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($58.87 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($166.15 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 100Hz 34.0" Monitor
Keyboard: Logitech G910 Orion Spark Wired Gaming Keyboard ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2103.72
I'd appreciate it if you guys could give me suggestions on this part list. The reason I picked a 1000W PSU is because I may do SLI sometime in the future.
is it enough to just stick with the good ol' CM Hyper 212 as a CPU cooler?
also, which GTX 980Ti version should I get? as there are many versions on Amazon. I don't think I'll do any overclocking on my PC any time soon.
My last build was in 2011, 2500k/GTX580, though still performing like a beast, but I figured it's time for an upgrade to enjoy the beauty of PC games more lol.
Here are the parts that I currently in mind: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/h7dX6h
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($169.80 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($649.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Stryker (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($181.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($58.87 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($166.15 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer Predator X34 100Hz 34.0" Monitor
Keyboard: Logitech G910 Orion Spark Wired Gaming Keyboard ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $2103.72
I'd appreciate it if you guys could give me suggestions on this part list. The reason I picked a 1000W PSU is because I may do SLI sometime in the future.
is it enough to just stick with the good ol' CM Hyper 212 as a CPU cooler?
also, which GTX 980Ti version should I get? as there are many versions on Amazon. I don't think I'll do any overclocking on my PC any time soon.
LiquidMetal14
hide your water-based mammals
Selling my rig. Will only post this once in this thread.
http://m.neogaf.com/showpost.php?p=182710397
http://m.neogaf.com/showpost.php?p=182710397
Burgess_101
Member
My 27 inch monitor power supply blew for the second time and I am fed up with replacing it every year so I want to pick up a more reliable monitor.
So my current one is a DGM 27" IPS 2560x1440 monitor. I am kind of looking at one with freesync but I have a bit of an issue. I love the way my current monitor looks, the colours are fantastic, there is only one IPS 1440p freesync monitor that I can see and that disappointingly only goes up to 90hz with freesync. I can get a TN panel one that is of course cheaper and works at the full 144hz range but I worry about the panel type. Will I see a huge downgrade in quality?
I mean I don't really use it to watch anything on but its nice whilst I am typing away as I do majority of the time to have a nice looking image quality.
What are the opinions here on panel types? Will I notice a big difference between 90hz and 144hz? Is freesync worth it?
I am using an R9 390.
So my current one is a DGM 27" IPS 2560x1440 monitor. I am kind of looking at one with freesync but I have a bit of an issue. I love the way my current monitor looks, the colours are fantastic, there is only one IPS 1440p freesync monitor that I can see and that disappointingly only goes up to 90hz with freesync. I can get a TN panel one that is of course cheaper and works at the full 144hz range but I worry about the panel type. Will I see a huge downgrade in quality?
I mean I don't really use it to watch anything on but its nice whilst I am typing away as I do majority of the time to have a nice looking image quality.
What are the opinions here on panel types? Will I notice a big difference between 90hz and 144hz? Is freesync worth it?
I am using an R9 390.
So I am studying Game Design (3D Modelling, 3D Engines etc etc) at Uni currently but I am running Windows on my 2013 iMac via Bootcamp, as I am using 3DS Max and its only compatible with Windows. I don't feel the performance is optimal, 3DS Max will take for ever to load and render, Unreal Engine takes a good while to start up and load up files too.
I've decided to buy a PC via PCSpecialist in the UK as I am too scared to build one myself :/
Just wanted to run a spec through you guys, my budget is around £1200. I will be using it for 3DS Max, Zbrush, Unity and Unreal. In terms of gaming I have PS4 and Xbox One but I tend to do a bit of gaming, such as WoW, Civ, ESO, HoT, Diablo 3 etc.
Let me know what you think, if I am going overkill or need to change anything? Longevity is in mind, want it to last me through my studies and still be pretty good for gaming too.
Will be on a 1080p monitor but looking to get a 1440p soon.
Core i7-6700 3.4Ghz
16GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2133Ghz Ram
4GB Geforce GTX 970
120GB SSD
2TB HDD
Corsair 550W Power Supply
Corsair H55 Hydro Cooling
All comes at £1141.00
Thank you in advance!
I've decided to buy a PC via PCSpecialist in the UK as I am too scared to build one myself :/
Just wanted to run a spec through you guys, my budget is around £1200. I will be using it for 3DS Max, Zbrush, Unity and Unreal. In terms of gaming I have PS4 and Xbox One but I tend to do a bit of gaming, such as WoW, Civ, ESO, HoT, Diablo 3 etc.
Let me know what you think, if I am going overkill or need to change anything? Longevity is in mind, want it to last me through my studies and still be pretty good for gaming too.
Will be on a 1080p monitor but looking to get a 1440p soon.
Core i7-6700 3.4Ghz
16GB HyperX Fury DDR4 2133Ghz Ram
4GB Geforce GTX 970
120GB SSD
2TB HDD
Corsair 550W Power Supply
Corsair H55 Hydro Cooling
All comes at £1141.00
Thank you in advance!
TwistedFate
Member
Is it worth it to make an upgrade form 780 ti to 980 ti or should I just wait?
I'm in no particular rush for better hardware but with new mmo's starting to release soon I'd like to be able run them at highest settings
I'm in no particular rush for better hardware but with new mmo's starting to release soon I'd like to be able run them at highest settings
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