There is a method on mydigitalife forums to upgrade the OS to Windows 10 via fresh install and maintain activation. You may as well follow that instead.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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There is a method on mydigitalife forums to upgrade the OS to Windows 10 via fresh install and maintain activation. You may as well follow that instead.
Guess I'll ask here. What do you think about a setup like this? Would it work? It's been ages since I bought a PC so I'm not a specialist (espeacially in cooling/power area). Would you change soemthing? Is anything missing here? PC built with gaming in mind. Thanks in advance for any help.
Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz s.2011 Box
MSI X99S GAMING 9 AC s.2011
Corsair Hydro Series H105 (CW-9060016-WW)
Crucial Ballistix Tactical DDR3 UDIMM 16GB 1600MT/s (2x8GB)
ASUS GF GTX980Ti 6144MB 384bit PCI-E STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5
Crucial SSD MX200 500GB 2.5'' SATA3 7mm CT500MX200SSD1
Phanteks Enthoo Pro Black Window (PH-ES614P_BK)
Be quiet! Dark Power PRO 11 750W (DPP11 750W) BN252
Asus 27 PG278Q LED ROG SWIFT DP 144Hz G-sync
Creative Sound Blaster Z PCIe + mic
Intel Core i7-5820K 3,3 GHz s.2011 Box
MSI X99S GAMING 9 AC s.2011
Corsair Hydro Series H105 (CW-9060016-WW)
Crucial Ballistix Tactical DDR3 UDIMM 16GB 1600MT/s (2x8GB)
ASUS GF GTX980Ti 6144MB 384bit PCI-E STRIX-GTX980TI-DC3OC-6GD5
Crucial SSD MX200 500GB 2.5'' SATA3 7mm CT500MX200SSD1
Phanteks Enthoo Pro Black Window (PH-ES614P_BK)
Be quiet! Dark Power PRO 11 750W (DPP11 750W) BN252
Asus 27 PG278Q LED ROG SWIFT DP 144Hz G-sync
Creative Sound Blaster Z PCIe + mic
Eh I believe the mobo uses 4 x DDR4 RAM
Would you or anyone else here recommend a replacement?
The Lamonster
Member
Good to know, thanks. I hadn't thought about that. Still curious about my other questions:
I also put a couple case fans in there because it was recommended earlier in the thread. Is that necessary?
hey this looks pretty close to what I'm building...might steal some of these ideas, but I'll wait for some recommendations first because I don't know what I'm doing...
qa_engineer
Member
You need DDR4 ram if you're going with X99 (Haswell-E). Additionally the creative sound blaster card might be overkill, especially when most modern mobos come with decent to high quality sound processors. Everything else looks good and is similar to my build-- your video card is obviously better. If you're doing anything outside of gaming such as rendering, design work etc. then the benefits of the 5820K will be ever more present.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/h4ZnD3
qa_engineer
Member
I would go with the 260X. All numbers indicate that its the faster GPU http://gpuboss.com/gpus/Radeon-R7-360-vs-Radeon-R7-260X. You're looking at a GPU with comparable performance (on paper) to the PS4.
I understand, should I be concerned about it being an older card regarding support or older technology that uses a lot more power? Sorry if my questions are very noobish
Hey Im Patrick
Member
If you don't mind me asking, what are you trying to achieve? Do you need it for gaming? Video/Image editing or music production? If so, do you need 60fps 1080P? 4K? Etc.
qa_engineer
Member
They are essentially the same GPU, both are based on the Bonaire Pro/Tobago platform, and both are GCN 1.1 parts so the driver support and life cycle for the products are identical. In this case its going to be shorter given that they're budget components.
As for the power draw you can see in the link I provided that too is identical. The 260x draws in 15 more watts because of its higher clocks.
opticalmace
Member
Maybe something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231936&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Or possibly 4x8GB if you want 32GB.
Thank you very much for your help, I am going with the one you recommended
AetherZX
Member
So I'm about to order today, how is this build looking? Anything missing or needs to be addressed?
Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150
Team Vulcan 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB
Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/KrPbMp
Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150
Team Vulcan 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Asus Radeon R9 390 8GB
Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case
EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/KrPbMp
adamantypants
Member
It's a known issue with the G3258 and Windows 10. Intel pushed out a microcode update blocking overclocking on that processor with Windows 10. I literally just ran into this issue myself. ASRock has pushed out a bios update for that mobo to be compatible with Windows 10, but it blocks overclocking.
You have a few options.
-Update bios and upgrade to Windows 10 and lose overclocking.
-Update bios, upgrade to Windows 10, perform the G3258 Windows 10 fix and then roll back bios firmware to maintain overclock
-Don't update to windows 10
I personally just stuck to Windows 7 for the time being as I don't feel like I'm necessarily missing out on features yet.
I'd try to throw an SSD in there if budget permits
Hey Im Patrick
Member
If you can go 2X4 GB that would be better. Also, I would recommend WD over Seagate.
qa_engineer
Member
Pretty solid build for gaming and productivity. What wattage is that CPU? I ask because the 390X is a power hungry card. Your PSU should be sufficient but that's the only "concern" I have with your build.
Edit: Why not a dual channel memory kit?
No problem.
blazenumb1
Member
I apologize if I'm in the wrong place to ask this but I'm looking for some help on buying a computer.
I have pretty decent gaming set up from atari to current gen in my basement but I'm looking for a PC that can play emulators(from atari to gameucbe era) and pc games, nothing fancy. Want to hook this up through my tv and run through my surround sound system.
Any suggestions? Also not trying to spend a ton if possible.
I'm sure this a very noob question but I'm not a computer guy so any help is greatly appreciated.
I have pretty decent gaming set up from atari to current gen in my basement but I'm looking for a PC that can play emulators(from atari to gameucbe era) and pc games, nothing fancy. Want to hook this up through my tv and run through my surround sound system.
Any suggestions? Also not trying to spend a ton if possible.
I'm sure this a very noob question but I'm not a computer guy so any help is greatly appreciated.
qa_engineer
Member
Bro, we're here to help but we need more deets. How much are you trying to spend? how much space are you willing to take up (or how much space can you spare)? Apologies if you're a female but I call female friends "bro" as well.
edit: you're a guy
AetherZX
Member
What 390X?
Went with the suggestions of dual channel memory. Also going to see if I could squeeze in a SSD too, but I'm trying not to overbudget ( $800) though.
blazenumb1
Member
Thanks for the reply. I'm not looking to spend anymore than like $700. I can make room for the computer not an issue there although smaller the better.
Also, how did you know I was a guy(doesn't matter just curious)?
qa_engineer
Member
You ended your sentence with "I'm not a computer guy." Which of course I overlooked originally. Ha.
Your build:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/fh4hcf
blazenumb1
Member
To be honest all of the above with an exception of 4K maybe.
Thank you very much. 4x8GB might be an overkill though or is it worth it?
The Lamonster
Member
What's the difference between Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) and Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)?
Also, Crucial or Samsung for 500GB SSD?
Also, Crucial or Samsung for 500GB SSD?
Sounds like a normal name for a temporary file extraction from a self-extracting archive. Your anti-virus detected something?
Hi guys,
I think it´s about 10 years ago since I did my last PC Build. Coming from gaming on a PS4 right now I need a budget machine first and want to upgrade in 2016.
So my usage for the next few month would be just light usage. Maybe a bit of 3D construction with Solid Edge. Next year I want to be able to play games in 1080p 60fps.
I´m looking for this:
-Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Intel Z170 So.1151 Dual Channel DDR4 mATX Retail € 113,36*
-Intel Pentium G4400 2x 3.30GHz So.1151 BOX € 59,96*
-BitFenix Phenom M € 68,20*
-8GB HyperX FURY schwarz DDR4-2133 DIMM CL14 Dual Kit € 52,94*
-250GB Crucial BX100 2.5" (6.4cm) SATA 80,43€
-I already own a Corsair 550W power supply
Total: 374,89€ (German prices, sorry for €
The plan for 2016 is to ramp things up a little bit and go for a 6600k and a decent GPU and of course a new power supply if needed.
What do you think? Will this work out?
The parts all look fine. What country are you in?
Hmm, I think Corsair has a soundproofed version of their Carbide 300R case, and Cooler Master has their Silencio line of cases, see if you can find those available.
I ran into that issue less than 24 hours ago myself. The problem is that there is a CPU microcode update that prevents Windows 10 from being installed on systems with overclocked G3258 processors. Here's a link for more information, but basically what you want to do is temporarily revert the processor back to default speed, install Windows 10, and then disable the microcode update if you want to go back to your overclocked setup.
Warning: although it allows Windows 10 to install, do not set the G3258 to only run on one core, there are reports that people have been having issues reactivating the second core. Reverting the overclock settings is much safer.
I don't mean to question qa_engineer's build and expertise, but improvements can be made. Here's my version of the build.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($174.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $632.71
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-21 12:24 EDT-0400
It's $100 cheaper while having the same processor, better graphics card, and better SSD. It's also a bit heavier on rebates, but still costs less than the first build before rebates.
qa_engineer
Member
Awesome. I just threw something quickly together, but cheaper while retaining similar parts is always good.
The Lamonster
Member
Okay, I have the first draft of my build complete, but still have a few outstanding questions beyond the general 'how can this be improved' question:
1) What's the difference between Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) and Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)?
2) Do I need those two extra case fans?
3) Will the Noctua cooler get in the way of the RAM?
4) Am I missing anything?
5) Is anything overkill relative to the other parts?
6) Any tips/special instructions for the NCIXUS assembly?
Here's the goal: I want to have something future proof and idiot proof. I have the basic skill to upgrade easy things in the future like GPU or RAM, but don't want to have to upgrade anything very complicated. Hence, the higher end CPU, mobo, cooler etc. I want to order something fast, powerful and quiet, and when it arrives be able to turn it on and start using it...and be relatively maintenance free on the hardware side.
1) What's the difference between Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) and Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)?
2) Do I need those two extra case fans?
3) Will the Noctua cooler get in the way of the RAM?
4) Am I missing anything?
5) Is anything overkill relative to the other parts?
6) Any tips/special instructions for the NCIXUS assembly?
Here's the goal: I want to have something future proof and idiot proof. I have the basic skill to upgrade easy things in the future like GPU or RAM, but don't want to have to upgrade anything very complicated. Hence, the higher end CPU, mobo, cooler etc. I want to order something fast, powerful and quiet, and when it arrives be able to turn it on and start using it...and be relatively maintenance free on the hardware side.
Thx for the reply RGM79! I live in Germany. So swapping the CPU out will be no problem? Oh I think I have to buy a good heatsink too.
qa_engineer
Member
1) What's the difference between Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full (32/64-bit) and Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)?
OEM licenses are for system builders and are good for the initial install only. Should you have to reformat or reinstall the OS you'll need to get a new key from MS, this may require you to be in contact with their support people.
The full version is a personal use license and can be installed and reinstalled on a single machine, over and over again using the same key.
2) Do I need those two extra case fans?
No. The R5 case comes with two very good Fractal Design GP14 fans in black with white blades (1x front intake, 1x rear exhaust). If you're trying to cut costs you could perhaps remove the fans. The case supports one additional fan slot on the front exhaust, 2x fans near the PSU slot, 1x door fant, and up to 3x top mounted fans http://www.fractal-design.com/media/75502616-1583-4c2e-91b3-5d600a7f5806
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-gp-14
3) Will the Noctua cooler get in the way of the RAM?
Hard to tell, but Noctua coolers generally have really good clearance
4) Am I missing anything?
Any reason why you're going with an air cooler and not an AIO water cooler? I basically have the same setup but with a Corsair H100i GTX, which costs the same as the Noctua and ensures ram clearance, quiet operation, and cooler temps at load.
5) Is anything overkill relative to the other parts?
Seems pretty balanced to me
OEM licenses are for system builders and are good for the initial install only. Should you have to reformat or reinstall the OS you'll need to get a new key from MS, this may require you to be in contact with their support people.
The full version is a personal use license and can be installed and reinstalled on a single machine, over and over again using the same key.
2) Do I need those two extra case fans?
No. The R5 case comes with two very good Fractal Design GP14 fans in black with white blades (1x front intake, 1x rear exhaust). If you're trying to cut costs you could perhaps remove the fans. The case supports one additional fan slot on the front exhaust, 2x fans near the PSU slot, 1x door fant, and up to 3x top mounted fans http://www.fractal-design.com/media/75502616-1583-4c2e-91b3-5d600a7f5806
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-gp-14
3) Will the Noctua cooler get in the way of the RAM?
Hard to tell, but Noctua coolers generally have really good clearance
4) Am I missing anything?
Any reason why you're going with an air cooler and not an AIO water cooler? I basically have the same setup but with a Corsair H100i GTX, which costs the same as the Noctua and ensures ram clearance, quiet operation, and cooler temps at load.
5) Is anything overkill relative to the other parts?
Seems pretty balanced to me
metalmonstar
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($326.95 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($90.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($61.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ B&H)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($71.59 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1245.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-21 15:06 EDT-0400
Here is what I was looking at but it says the RAM may have issues due to voltage mismatch. Should I be concerned if so what are the alternatives?
Also any recommendations on a good internal capture card?
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($326.95 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Micro Center)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($90.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial BX100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($61.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ B&H)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card ($71.59 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1245.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-21 15:06 EDT-0400
Here is what I was looking at but it says the RAM may have issues due to voltage mismatch. Should I be concerned if so what are the alternatives?
Also any recommendations on a good internal capture card?
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks, this is helpful!
I'm going with the Noctua over a liquid cooler because I've read they are quieter and there's no risk of leaks. I won't be overclocking (or overclocking very much) so I probably won't need the power of liquid.
Here's my updated build based on your feedback:
Any thoughts, RGM79? Or is this pretty solid now?
It shouldn't be a problem.
I don't have any issues with it. I think you can save a bit of money if you get Windows 10 on disc instead of USB, though.
It's not a voltage mismatch, it just that high speed RAM usually requires higher voltage in order to run at that speed. It'll be fine and compatible.
I wouldn't recommend the Extreme4 motherboard, it has a relatively low score going by Newegg user reviews, something may be wrong with the quality control on that motherboard.
Instead of the Corsair H60, how about an air cooler? The Hyper 212 Evo should be more than enough for your needs, including overclocking.
Do you really need a sound card? If you do then feel free to add it back to the list, but motherboard audio is usually more than enough for most people in terms of both quality and features.
There are also a number of alternative parts you can go with with nearly the same or slightly lesser specifications that will lower costs and keep virtually the same performance. Here's my version of your build, it's within ±5% of the parts you had before at a much lower cost.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($326.95 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($73.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card ($307.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1063.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-21 16:57 EDT-0400
The Lamonster
Member
I definitely could, but it doesn't look like NCIXUS carries it :/
edit: err, they have the DVD OEM, which doesn't sound that attractive based on what qa_engineer said OEM meant. And it's $126.98 so not a huge price difference.
Remember, NCIXUS has a pricematch policy. If any other places carry an identical product (usually going by model number), tell them and they'll match the price or at least give you a counter-offer. Use PCPartPicker to see if any other places carry lower priced parts identical to the ones you selected and you can save a bit more.
I personally haven't had issues reinstalling Windows on PCs with OEM licenses. I understand if you prefer to be safe, though.
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks for the reminder; I do plan on price matching everything I can when I place the order later tonight.
After reading more about OEM vs. full, I should be fine with OEM. I won't be upgrading the motherboard or trying to install Windows on a different PC so it probably wouldn't make a difference.
Anybody has any good suggestions for a good keyboard?
I've been using Logitech Gaming keyboard for years (G15 at first and now a G510s)... My 510 is dying so I want to change it. I really like the LCD on it (I mostly use it for the clock to be honest lol) but I guess I could live without it (and I don't want to by another Logitech G super expensive keyboard anyway).
My only requirement I guess is to have a backlight (It's always super dark in my living room).
Any ideas?
I've been using Logitech Gaming keyboard for years (G15 at first and now a G510s)... My 510 is dying so I want to change it. I really like the LCD on it (I mostly use it for the clock to be honest lol) but I guess I could live without it (and I don't want to by another Logitech G super expensive keyboard anyway).
My only requirement I guess is to have a backlight (It's always super dark in my living room).
Any ideas?
How much are you looking to spend? Once I started using a mechanical keyboard (4-5 years ago) I haven't been able to go back. I've only owned 2, the Corsair K90 and now the K95 RGB and they have both been amazing. They have a good amount of features without looking to "gamer", have amazing build quality and all the buttons and features I need.
Song of the Turtle
Member
Thank you so much! Updating the bios worked nicely. I'm used to Win10 and there is no way I'm ever returning to 8.1. Overclocking isn't really my priority, but thanks for the advice (you too, RGM79).
The Lamonster
Member
I am in love with my Max Keyboard Nighthawk X8. It's mechanical and backlit with whatever color you want. Built like a tank and feels so good to use.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
I don't think people appreciate how lucky I was to find this, $10 for an IBM Model M in excellent condition. Made in like.... 1992. I was two years old when this was made and it still works flawlessly.
$10!
I've got quite a nice setup going now.
Monitor: Acer XB270 144hz/G-Sync/IPS/1440p
PC: i7-4790k/GTX780/8GB DDR3/250GB EVO 850
Chair: Herman Miller Aeron
KB/M: IBM Model M/Razor Naga
Comfy couch gaming is dead to me.
$10!
I've got quite a nice setup going now.
Monitor: Acer XB270 144hz/G-Sync/IPS/1440p
PC: i7-4790k/GTX780/8GB DDR3/250GB EVO 850
Chair: Herman Miller Aeron
KB/M: IBM Model M/Razor Naga
Comfy couch gaming is dead to me.
Diomedes
Member
Trying to set up and leak test my cooling loop before I install it. Have it together and ready, and can't get PSU (EVGA 750WG2 gold) to send power to SATA port cpnnected to the cooler. PSU works as it has been powering my desktop until I took it apart to upgrade.
Tried jumping the Green Power-on cable to several grounds and not getting any response. Searching around hasn't proved helpful yet. Best I've found is this pic that helps show me what is what even though it's for the 850W.
What could I try differently, or what am I doing wrong?
Tried jumping the Green Power-on cable to several grounds and not getting any response. Searching around hasn't proved helpful yet. Best I've found is this pic that helps show me what is what even though it's for the 850W.
What could I try differently, or what am I doing wrong?
The Lamonster
Member
vs
Thoughts?
Smushroomed
Banned
Best resources for recording pc games? Stuff like workflow and what programs to use?
opticalmace
Member
Depends on what you're using it for. If pure gaming, I would go skylake. If partially productivity, x99.
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Here's your parts list. You would only be replacing your current CPU, motherboard, and graphics card with this. You will be reusing everything else.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.99 @ B&H)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card ($636.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $966.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-22 02:33 EDT-0400
As I understand it, that GTX 980 Ti should just barely fit into your HAF 912 case, with a tiny bit of room to space. Alternatively you could opt for the slightly more expensive but also slightly smaller EVGA GTX 980 Ti models with the ACX cooler and may be easier to work with.
Make sure you're looking at the power cable from the right orientation? Are you sure the power supply isn't already on? The G2 has a fanless mode that keeps the fan off at low temperatures and low operating loads, so it may be on without you knowing about it.Trying to set up and leak test my cooling loop before I install it. Have it together and ready, and can't get PSU (EVGA 750WG2 gold) to send power to SATA port cpnnected to the cooler. PSU works as it has been powering my desktop until I took it apart to upgrade.
Tried jumping the Green Power-on cable to several grounds and not getting any response. Searching around hasn't proved helpful yet. Best I've found is this pic that helps show me what is what even though it's for the 850W.
What could I try differently, or what am I doing wrong?
Do you still have all the accessories that came with your power supply? There's this small plastic adaptor for the end of the 24 pin power cable that should definitely be able to turn on your PSU. See here and scroll all the way to the bottom of the page.
For games they should perform fairly close together. The i7 6700K might actually have an advantage sometimes due to the higher stock clock speed and the fact that not all games can take advantage of 6 cores (depends on the game, game engine, optimizations, etc) so in some scenarios, it's not impossible for the quad core 6700K to slightly edge out the hexa core 5820K.
For applications like video encoding, rendering, and computation where most applications and software can and usually do take advantage of more processing threads, the 5820K has the potential to come out on top. An overclocked 5820K can match and possibly exceed a stock speed i7 6700K there.
I'm no expert, but from what I think if you have an Nvidia card, you'll want to use Shadowplay? I recall hearing that it has much less overhead than other recording programs, so it won't impact gameplay performance and framerate as much while you record as you play.
cartoon_soldier
Member
Per above comment on silent CPU cases, So is this a good case then?
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/corsair-carbide-300r-cpu-cabinet/217159
Won't have any issues with air flow? I plan to update CPU, get 16GB RAM and a new GFX card (currently have 680)
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/corsair-carbide-300r-cpu-cabinet/217159
Won't have any issues with air flow? I plan to update CPU, get 16GB RAM and a new GFX card (currently have 680)
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