GetDigitized
Member
It's like £140 on eBay =< , everywhere else is oos. It seems not many midr-range keyboard come with wrist rests. The best I've found are Roccat Ryos or Isku.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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It's like £140 on eBay =< , everywhere else is oos. It seems not many midr-range keyboard come with wrist rests. The best I've found are Roccat Ryos or Isku.
Hm
Could run a hdmi splitter then hdmi over cat5e anti clockwise (from your standing position) tacked against the bottom of the wall towards the tv?
HDMI over Cat5e? You've just blown my mind. That would be a lot thinner than the huge 50' HDMI cable. I assume then you repeat the process on the other side? Only downside is it would go under the carpet past the stairs.
Edit- just realized you said anti-clockwise. I like this idea. You sir are a genius.
Yep on the TV side you will have a cat5e to HDMI. Just buy a powered version of HDMI over Cat5e baluns.
I run a 30m extension like this.
Yes anti clockwise
Next best thing then is to get the keyboard you like the look of most and pick up a Glorius Wrist Rest.
deletethis123
Banned
PC Gaf, what do you recommend I do to make my build more quiet?
I have a 5930K with an H80i and a bitfenix Phenom as well as a bitfenix 230mm fan at the bottom.
I have said fan blowing air inside, and the CPU cooler blowing air outside (using stock corsair fans) through the back. I had some slim fans at the top but they were too noisy.
I'm thinking of switching the fans for some noctuas or bequiets, and changing the 230mm fan for a PWM controlled fan. I had some scythe slip stream fans at the top, I could change them for some rosewills but have removed them for now.
I have a 5930K with an H80i and a bitfenix Phenom as well as a bitfenix 230mm fan at the bottom.
I have said fan blowing air inside, and the CPU cooler blowing air outside (using stock corsair fans) through the back. I had some slim fans at the top but they were too noisy.
I'm thinking of switching the fans for some noctuas or bequiets, and changing the 230mm fan for a PWM controlled fan. I had some scythe slip stream fans at the top, I could change them for some rosewills but have removed them for now.
So im using Win 10.
I have a keyboard and mouse that has lights in them. So when i got to shut down my computer, the lights in the mouse and keyboard will stay on. Anyone know how i can fix that?
It only happens on win 10. On win 7 it doesnt.
I fixed it at one point, but then i reformatted my computer and it does it again, but i forgot how to fix/
I have a keyboard and mouse that has lights in them. So when i got to shut down my computer, the lights in the mouse and keyboard will stay on. Anyone know how i can fix that?
It only happens on win 10. On win 7 it doesnt.
I fixed it at one point, but then i reformatted my computer and it does it again, but i forgot how to fix/
Thank you for the additional tip, man. Will check.
Mad Season
Banned
I ran out of USB ports. Can anyone recommend something to add more USB ports to my system?
High end gaming pc
High end gaming pc
Also no bay for an optical drive, if that matters to him. I'm probably getting a define s myself soon.
LightofRohan
Member
Gahh, so I read online that I could install my OS to my new SSD, but then reconnect my SATA drive after words as a second HDD and it will retain the data that is on there. I got the ssd with the new OS working but I connected my old sata and it is not even recgonizing it in bios... Now what.
Not sure where to ask this so I'll drop in here.
Just upgraded to a GTX 970, had issues with my PC restarting under strain, figured it was my PSU. Replaced with an EVGA 550W which seems to have sorted it. But I still have one issue since the upgrade.
Boot up takes a good while. Instead of a couple seconds at the bootup screen (pre-windows) it's now a minute or so. And the other problem is I can no longer get to the BIOS etc. by pressing the corresponding key. No response. What might be causing this? What can I do to troubleshoot/fix?
Just upgraded to a GTX 970, had issues with my PC restarting under strain, figured it was my PSU. Replaced with an EVGA 550W which seems to have sorted it. But I still have one issue since the upgrade.
Boot up takes a good while. Instead of a couple seconds at the bootup screen (pre-windows) it's now a minute or so. And the other problem is I can no longer get to the BIOS etc. by pressing the corresponding key. No response. What might be causing this? What can I do to troubleshoot/fix?
deletethis123
Banned
I had some issues getting to BIOS and it was the keyboard in my case. Try using another one, maybe? (it's a fancy mechanical keyboard with things under the function layer, so that might be the cause for me, perhaps for you as well?)
As for a slow boot, I guess it's either the HDD or your Windows install. If it's an HDD, try using one of those tools to check your HDD's health.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Let's see... the settings that are actually available for setting the voltage are:
CPU Core Voltage
CPU Cache Voltage
CPU System Agent Voltage Offset
CPU Analog I/O Voltage Offset
CPU Digital I/O Voltage Offset
CPU Input Voltage
DRAM Voltage
PCH VLX Voltage
PCH Core Voltage
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB
Only the DRAM voltage is set to 1.65V; everything else is auto.
Since I can't get it to boot at all, stably, at DDR3-2666 even with very loose timings (~CL16), I guess I'm at the edge of my RAM's potential. I'm now trying to see if I can actually just push in tighter timings.
I've run Prime95 for an hour and it seems to be stable. I think I'll probably leave it running overnight the next time around once I've arrived at a setting that seems Windows, IBT, and benchmark-stable. (Prime95 testing just takes its sweet time... no matter how you put it, 10 hours is very long.)
Powered USB hub, if bandwidth isn't an issue or a plugin card, either using motherboard slots or on board USB headers.
Checked for anything simple, like a bad cord, or not plugged, or if the cord is in securely? That shouldn't happen.
https://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/ plenty of gray market keys here, don't think you'll be finding win7 OEM keys cheaper brand new elsewhere online
I never overclocked haswell but read up on
CPU System Agent Voltage Offset
CPU Analog I/O Voltage Offset
CPU Digital I/O Voltage Offset
Those are related to the IMC and mem oc.
Remember the IMC is only rated to 1600mhz, so ram speeds above it mean you need to tune the IMC voltages.
I hope this is the right thread to ask this question!
So, I attempted to build my first PC last night. Connected everything, went to boot it, and I just get a continuous reboot. The CD drive powers up, fans run, and then it shuts off after about five seconds and tries to reboot itself over and over. I'm going to take it to the Micro Center near me later today to have them look at it, but I thought I'd get some suggestions from GAF first to see if it's just an easy fix. I'm praying I didn't somehow fry the motherboard/ram/cpu.
Here's my parts list:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5"
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX
So, I attempted to build my first PC last night. Connected everything, went to boot it, and I just get a continuous reboot. The CD drive powers up, fans run, and then it shuts off after about five seconds and tries to reboot itself over and over. I'm going to take it to the Micro Center near me later today to have them look at it, but I thought I'd get some suggestions from GAF first to see if it's just an easy fix. I'm praying I didn't somehow fry the motherboard/ram/cpu.
Here's my parts list:
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5"
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX
If you can get some closeup pictures of how everything is connected as well as some overviews, someone might be able to spot it if it is a visible issue.
I like this case a bunch. Probably going to use it in my build.
https://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefsbkw
Could be a few things, try some quick steps to locate the problem.
Try booting with only one of your RAM sticks (try both) to see if one is faulty.
Try removing your gpu and booting on the integrated to see if your problem comes from some lack of power.
Elitist1945
Member
So I ran the memtest thing, and it didn't pick up any errors. It still only said I had 8GB of RAM though (I have 2x8 installed), so I still don't know if that means its a stick issue or a mobo issue.
Currently have a 3570k in an original bitfenix prodigy (mini itx? Micro atx?) and wondering about my upgrade options to replace motherboard/CPU/ram. I run a plex server in the background and want something suited to VR framerates. So at minimum I think I'd go from an i5 to an i7 this time. The simplest solution would appear to be a 6700k, but would a 5820k or whatever broadwell-e brings be a better alternative? My worry there is that they seem to be clocked lower than the standard 4/8 i7s so might possibly perform less well in some games.
Price is flexible but I wouldn't go for the top end - would be looking at 6700k, 5820k, 6800k, possibly the next notch up on the 6 core chips if there is a clear benefit without too much added cost.
Price is flexible but I wouldn't go for the top end - would be looking at 6700k, 5820k, 6800k, possibly the next notch up on the 6 core chips if there is a clear benefit without too much added cost.
Fate_Shirou
Member
So, I'm going be buying a msi gtx 980 ti le. Should I get extended warranty from newegg for it? It's extra 60 dollars
Gen.Grievous
Member
MSI usually gives you three years I think so not worth it.
I don't think it's necessary, but Amazon has the card for the same price as Newegg and they charge less for their warranties.
http://amzn.com/B0106QZE62
Fate_Shirou
Member
But with amazon I have to pay taxes and I'm in NY and it's 9%
Ah, no problem. But yeah, I don't think you need it unless you really hate dealing with manufacturer warranties and have the money to spend.
Fate_Shirou
Member
yeah, you both are right it's better to save the 60 dollars. Thanks for your inputs on this.
opticalmace
Member
I'm overclocking my 6700k. With a fixed voltage it's fine, but offset is being problematic.
I need to run a negative offset, but to get the load vcore where I want it, it makes the vcore really low on idle, to the point of instability or not booting at all. Any suggestions?
Board is a Gigabyte Z170X-UD3.
I need to run a negative offset, but to get the load vcore where I want it, it makes the vcore really low on idle, to the point of instability or not booting at all. Any suggestions?
Board is a Gigabyte Z170X-UD3.
MikeE21286
Member
What's everyone's thoughts on this for $285? I'm thinking of upgrading from a 2500k/12gb DDR3 system and am wondering if this is a worthwhile upgrade and good deal
Intel Core i5-6500 Skylake Quad-Core 3.2GHz CPU
ASUS Z170-P 1151 ATX MOBO, GeiL EVO POTENZA 16GB DDR4 2400 MEM
$285 at Newegg
http://slickdeals.net/f/8690531-int...8813&utm_campaign=tu4&src=da_mgmt_v2_18229338
Intel Core i5-6500 Skylake Quad-Core 3.2GHz CPU
ASUS Z170-P 1151 ATX MOBO, GeiL EVO POTENZA 16GB DDR4 2400 MEM
$285 at Newegg
http://slickdeals.net/f/8690531-int...8813&utm_campaign=tu4&src=da_mgmt_v2_18229338
VlaudTheImpaler
tl;dr
Alright, so as I am trying to fix a VR related issue with stuttering in some games I checked my system window in control panel to post my specs and I saw that it says I only have 16 GBs of ram and I know that I installed 2 sticks of 16 GB ram. Does this mean that my computer isn't utilizing all 32 GBs of ram? How do I fix this?
MikeE21286
Member
Maybe one of the sticks isn't seated properly?
Hey Im Patrick
Member
Riing from thermaltake are nice. I have both 120mm and 140mm.
I believe the SP and AF fans from corsair also have an LED version.
lostsupper
Banned
LLC.
VlaudTheImpaler
tl;dr
Well I am scheduled to clean it today so I will check that. Give me a few minutes.
Thing is though that I could have sworn I had both of them working at one point. I know for a fact that they both show up in my BIOS.
roadrunn3r
Member
It's not a bad deal, just a little strange one. That CPU could be a K model given the Z170 otherwise they could have gone with a cheaper motherboard which would have been perfectly fine.
Good to know. I'll check these out.
I just helped my friend build a new computer since his old motherboard was fried. Haven't done this in years so it was fun getting back into it. I also picked up a fully modular power supply to exchange with my non-modular one.
MikeE21286
Member
Hmm. Yeah if it's an OC tailored mobo and the non-K version that doesn't make sense. Sounds like a wait then. Thanks
Separate to my precious question - how small can you get a mini itx motherboard build? If I upgrade my prodigy, I'd have a 'spare' 3570k with 16GB ram. Probably wouldn't get much for selling it so I could repurpose it as a compact media server/HTPC. Would want it to run quiet and be very small. Wouldn't need a discrete GPU.
Theonik
Member
Try increasing loadline calibration. Better boards will deal with this better. Make sure to study how LLC is implemented in your board first though.
Z170 is the higher end chipset but one of the main things you pay for is OC on K CPUs. Without a K CPU you can save money by buying a chaper chipset at no real compromise. Though having said that the Z chipset allows you to upgrade to a newer K CPU later if they are good.
Just got a new PC and unfortunately there is no front mic port and my headset cord isn't long enough to reach the back port and wear them. What's the best solution for this, headset to USB converter? Extension cable for the current connectors?
opticalmace
Member
I have LLC on high, there are only a few settings and Tweaktown showed that high is the better way to go.
edit: after some googling, it seems that someone recommended only using 'normal' LLC instead of high when using offset. I'll give it a shot.
Problem though is that to get the voltage I want at 4.5GHz (which I know is stable fixed), I have to request an offset of something like -0.04 or -0.05V. At post it leaves the CPU starved (due to I guess C1E or EIST) and won't boot, which is annoying.
I wish there was a way to set minimum and maximums for Speedstep.
Edit2: fixed it by turning off the C3 and C6 states.
Elitist1945
Member
Went and replaced my 'defective' RAM and as feared, its the motherboard and not the RAM. Not too pleased right now.
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
Turn your case around.
Hey Im Patrick
Member
Buy an extension cable for the 3.5 mm port. If you want to go the expensive way, then go for an external DAC or AMP.
VlaudTheImpaler
tl;dr
Racking my brain trying to figure out why my PC only recognizes 16 of my 32 GBs of RAM. I cleaned my PC and reseated my sticks and it's still the same. I also can't access my BIOS now even by pressing delete on start up. It just starts too fast and all I see is the GIGABYTE logo (but no button prompts underneath it) for like 2 seconds maybe and then it gives me my lock screen. Even if I keep pressing the delete key from the moment I turn on the PC it doesn't do anything.
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