This isn't the Laptop thread, but, the info you're looking for is here.
http://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c04349558
First hit on "Envy x360 hard drive swap"
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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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This isn't the Laptop thread, but, the info you're looking for is here.
http://support.hp.com/ca-en/document/c04349558
First hit on "Envy x360 hard drive swap"
Hey all. I have two decisions to make before buying the parts for my build that I was hoping I could get some opinions on:
First, choosing between the following microATX Z170 motherboards:
Gigabyte GA-Z170MX Gaming 5 http://www.ncix.com/detail/gigabyte-z170-mx-gaming-5-lga-1a-113390-1230.htm
ASUS Z170M-PLUS http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-z170m-plus-matx-lga1151-z170-45-111476.htm
Second, my current gaming box is going to be my new work PC. Its currently in a giant CoolerMaster HAF X case. Id like to get something a little smaller, subtle and quieter. It has an ATX mobo with a GTX 580 so it needs to fit that and a Hyper 212 EVO heatsink. Im looking at these cases:
Fractal Design R4 http://www.ncix.com/detail/fractal-design-define-r4-atx-42-75044-1230.htm
Corsair Carbide 100R http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-carbide-series-100r-black-2f-104948.htm
First, choosing between the following microATX Z170 motherboards:
Gigabyte GA-Z170MX Gaming 5 http://www.ncix.com/detail/gigabyte-z170-mx-gaming-5-lga-1a-113390-1230.htm
ASUS Z170M-PLUS http://www.ncix.com/detail/asus-z170m-plus-matx-lga1151-z170-45-111476.htm
Second, my current gaming box is going to be my new work PC. Its currently in a giant CoolerMaster HAF X case. Id like to get something a little smaller, subtle and quieter. It has an ATX mobo with a GTX 580 so it needs to fit that and a Hyper 212 EVO heatsink. Im looking at these cases:
Fractal Design R4 http://www.ncix.com/detail/fractal-design-define-r4-atx-42-75044-1230.htm
Corsair Carbide 100R http://www.ncix.com/detail/corsair-carbide-series-100r-black-2f-104948.htm
I've never had to RMA any RAM to them and I have been using them for many years and in many different configurations (DDR2 to DDR4,and my father has used them for years as well and he runs a computer shop).
Also they only produce RAM and aren't like corsair where they make many different products. Just something about them, I'd take gskill over any brand out there for RAM. I don't think I stand alone on that.
The only time I have dealt with their support was because I got RAM that didn't work with my board and I paid a lot of money for it, and they ended letting me send it in and traded me 3 kits of RAM for my one kit.(all brand new)
I also once emailed them for some swag and they sent me quite and bit of it and many others did the same thing and got similar results. Just a great enthusiast focused company.
That and their prices are usually very competitive and they have quite the following on hardware websites/forums. (like overclock.net)
Sorry for the essay, but I guess you could call me brand loyal.
Johnny Cage In The Shower
Member
Thanks guys, yeaah yikes... looks like quite the procedure and it may even void the warranty, I am not messing around with that, I wonder if I can call customer service and, and somehow try to convince them to do this for me before ordering (of course paying for the SSD) hmmm...
AlimNassor
Banned
Will i? I have a 1080p/120hz 42" LED. I've never gamed on a PC but, would 144 make a difference? Got any suggestions?
Couldn't I adjust the RPM without it because they are plugged in through a 4-pin PWM port? If not plugging them into a fan controller might not be a bad idea.
I appreciate the help btw. There aren't many specifics like this about the PPC line.
Absolutely, but it completely depends on your own tolerance for noise. My motherboard (Asus) doesn't allow the CPU fan to go below a certain threshold in PWM mode (50% iirc) regardless of temp or settings, so I was never able to get them to an acceptable volume when my PC was idle.
A fan controller would do the trick, but I just didn't want to put extra hardware in my case just for the PPC's.
Are there any other fans you would recommend with similar performance?
No you dont, trust me.
Okay so my new GTX 970 finally came, and has now replaced my GTX 670 but I'm having problems.
Problem 1) The boot up time has got really long all of a sudden. At least a minute at the bios screen instead of seconds.
Bigger Problem 2) Intensive games make the PC restart. I booted up The Witcher 3 to see how it fared, was getting 70 fps on ultra, feeling great, PC rebooted D:
I've wiped and reinstalled stable Nvidia drivers (362.00), I've checked wiring and such and I'm 90% sure it's my PSU. I had a fault in my 650W NZXT Hale82 and had a quick dirty fix done at a computer shop. I'm talkin' a PSU with no branding, and worse, no label so I can't remember the wattage.
So I'm gonna go and pick up a PSU tomorrow, I'm looking at these two. Thoughts?
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/550...y-modular-80plus-gold-atx-sli-crossfire-ready
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/500...li-crossfire-single-rail-38a-plus12v-1x120mm-
Problem 1) The boot up time has got really long all of a sudden. At least a minute at the bios screen instead of seconds.
Bigger Problem 2) Intensive games make the PC restart. I booted up The Witcher 3 to see how it fared, was getting 70 fps on ultra, feeling great, PC rebooted D:
I've wiped and reinstalled stable Nvidia drivers (362.00), I've checked wiring and such and I'm 90% sure it's my PSU. I had a fault in my 650W NZXT Hale82 and had a quick dirty fix done at a computer shop. I'm talkin' a PSU with no branding, and worse, no label so I can't remember the wattage.
So I'm gonna go and pick up a PSU tomorrow, I'm looking at these two. Thoughts?
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/550...y-modular-80plus-gold-atx-sli-crossfire-ready
https://www.scan.co.uk/products/500...li-crossfire-single-rail-38a-plus12v-1x120mm-
MisterNoisy
Member
My main gaming box is built around that Gigabyte board. I'm a fan - it OCs pretty well, allows for SLI if you're going to go that way and is super reasonably priced. My example was pretty picky about RAM and didn't like the sticks I'd bought originally, so make sure whatever you buy to go with it is on Gigabyte's QVL list.
As for the case, I'd go with the Fractal if you want quieter.
The eVGA all the way
QuantumSquid
Member
CX power supplies haven't been good in years. Go for the EVGA.
AlimNassor
Banned
MisterNoisy
Member
I mentioned it in the other thread in OT, but that seems like a lot of really cool shit to then pack into a cheap as hell $39 case. I get that it's just a box to hold the working parts, but still.
Also, either get an unlocked (-K) proc and OC or save a fair bit of money by buying a H170 motherboard instead of that RoG board.
Are there any real 120hz TVs? Most if not all are just post-process interlaced to 120hz
Username1198
Member
Guys I'm new to PCs, I've always been a console gamer. I'm computer illiterate, I'm trying to go through this thread to get a grasp on what to do but my question is this:
About How much would it cost for me to build my own PC so that I can play Skyrim in all its modded glory? I am going to hook it up to my tv and play with an Xbox controller.
I'd just like an estimate so I can start Savin money and build one in the summer. I don't need anything super fancy. Just enough to play Skyrim without all the console issues
I'm addicted to Skyrim on my PS3, but it's getting to the point where the framerate is really bad due the amount of hours I've played.
About How much would it cost for me to build my own PC so that I can play Skyrim in all its modded glory? I am going to hook it up to my tv and play with an Xbox controller.
I'd just like an estimate so I can start Savin money and build one in the summer. I don't need anything super fancy. Just enough to play Skyrim without all the console issues
I'm addicted to Skyrim on my PS3, but it's getting to the point where the framerate is really bad due the amount of hours I've played.
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
Don't listen to this. Unless you are going to show the case off, who cares what it looks like. That is a perfectly functional case.
AlimNassor
Banned
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149QBOF0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
How's this?
Ah, misread. Yes, I've always gone by that 60 is really 30 and 120 is more 60.
How's this?
Ah, misread. Yes, I've always gone by that 60 is really 30 and 120 is more 60.
i changed the core to an i5k someone reccomended a case too
I"d like a good one w/ a window so i can see the parts i guess
Uhhh no, every TV is gonna be 60hz at the very least
MisterNoisy
Member
$10 more. Quieter, nicer looking, very likely to have better build quality and intake+exhaust fans included instead of exhaust only. Not saying you need to break the bank, but you do get something for that extra $10 in this scenario.
Guys,
Can I get some recommendations for a GPU and monitors for a triple monitor setup to play some racing games. Mainly iRacing and Dirt Rally but not exclusively
Would I need a 980ti? I have a 970 at the moment but that doesn't handle triple screens well enough from what I hear.
Can I get some recommendations for a GPU and monitors for a triple monitor setup to play some racing games. Mainly iRacing and Dirt Rally but not exclusively
Would I need a 980ti? I have a 970 at the moment but that doesn't handle triple screens well enough from what I hear.
Not disagreeing with you. My TV is 59.97Hz and I can't figure out how to play anything on it without screen tearing. So frustrating.
I did figure it out, but would lose all of the perks of HDMI
lordfuzzybutt
Member
My 4670K overclocks like a piece of turd.
I can only go up to 4.3Ghz at freaking 1.265 vcore.
I spent the last 2 days, just to get my CPU to that and RAM to 11-11-11-35 at 1866mhz.
Just want to vent.
Off to work, sigh.
I can only go up to 4.3Ghz at freaking 1.265 vcore.
I spent the last 2 days, just to get my CPU to that and RAM to 11-11-11-35 at 1866mhz.
Just want to vent.
Off to work, sigh.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
You should be able to throw a bit more voltage safely on the CPU if you still have thermal headroom.
What RAM, by the way? I've noticed that RAM these days tend to be very tightly binned - usually you get the rated speed and not much more.
Any feedback on this pc I'm building?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($54.00 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $968.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 04:06 EDT-0400
First time building. Keeping it around $1,000 (I'm from USA). I don't know much about motherboards. I'm not overclocking. Looking for 1080p/60fps on current gen games. I emulate my ps2 games on pc. I'm torn between a gtx 970 and an r9 390. Computer is gonna get used a lot, beyond gaming. Shoutout to that temporary keyboard.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($54.00 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $968.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 04:06 EDT-0400
First time building. Keeping it around $1,000 (I'm from USA). I don't know much about motherboards. I'm not overclocking. Looking for 1080p/60fps on current gen games. I emulate my ps2 games on pc. I'm torn between a gtx 970 and an r9 390. Computer is gonna get used a lot, beyond gaming. Shoutout to that temporary keyboard.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Yes, I know. I still have a little headroom (it peaked at 81C, avg 74C, after 1h stress testing with ROG Realbench, cooled by an EVO 212), but I would rather not because with my current setup, the case sits too close to me and I get hot very easily. Can't wait to move out to a better place.
I already can barely withstand the heat and noise running the damn thing at 4.2@1.225V. Which never got above 70C during normal use.
What makes me sad is that I see the average ppl get is 44 at more or less 1.2V. Just my shit luck.
For RAM, I have one set 2x4 of Kingston HyperX Savage Red 1600/1.5/CL9 and another set of Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600/1.5/CL10. The latter set was just lying around before so I think why not toss them in and try to OC things a bit. 16GBs is nice, despite being 2 mismatched sets.
Eh. Better luck next build I hope.
lordfuzzybutt
Member
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($50.40 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card ($299.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $960.25
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 04:49 EDT-0400
This is my choice.
Faster CPU, cheaper RAM, cheaper and better PSU.
I went with a 390. AMD is gaining ground on NVIDIA quite a lot lately and it will only get better I think. 8GB vs 3.5GB VRAM is also good.
But honestly, I recommend waiting 1 2 months for new cards. If it is possible.
EDIT: damn double posting. Also, note that that PSU is the CX 600M, which is a better unit than the CX 600, not sure why the link name says 600.
Thanks a lot dude. I really appreciate it.
modded glory <> not anything fancy
If you just want vanilla Skyrim with some fan-bugfix-patches then you can get away fairly cheap considering it's a 2011 game, maybe something along the lines of 600$ to get a decent rig? Of course you could lowball and build the 450$ "Potato Masher" or whatever but in case you want to add some more mods (and you probably will), I'd go for something better from the get-go.
If you want to use ENB or other performance-heavy mods, the sky is the limit.
buenoblue
Member
Yes. 2500k was @4.3. 6700k is @4.5.
I used OC genie because I've got no clue what I'm doing with voltages and it says in the bios menu that it's upped the CPU from 3.2 to 3.7ghz..
When I go into afterburner or in control panel it still says 5820k @3.2 ghz. Is this normal when you OC or has it not worked properly?
When I go into afterburner or in control panel it still says 5820k @3.2 ghz. Is this normal when you OC or has it not worked properly?
Hmm. Maybe instead of a monitor I should be looking at retiring my venerable 2500k.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
I see the two lists and I think they're both equally good. However, since I'm not much of a fan of Gigabyte motherboards (mostly to do with firmware)...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI H170A PC Mate ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($79.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($50.40 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.77 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($17.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($85.49 @ OutletPC)
Keyboard: Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard ($11.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $948.36
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 07:37 EDT-0400
This motherboard is larger, so you might need some skill moving it into the case, but in return I believe this motherboard should make it a lot easier to install everything you'd need in the machine.
(Also left the 970 alone, as it's an absurd overclocker. Preferences, preferences. Depends on if you're OK with the absolute heat output the 390 has (you will never work around the perf/W) in exchange for better performance, but an OC'd 970's going to be cooler than a 390 in absolute heat output terms (heat going into your case, and, well, your room), disregarding actual GPU temps (which isn't too important if it's nowhere near overtemp...)
Personally I find the i5-6600 to not be worth it and the i5-6500 is a comfortably good position to be in, too.
The 850 EVO seems excessive if you only need a boot drive. I actually use the Fury in my desktop right now, and besides the 3-year warranty coverage and a 10 GB capacity loss, it still runs more than well enough in real-life usage. The controller might be an "old" SandForce, but I think I haven't run into any problems after I've warranty-replaced an infant-death SSD.
Probably a very good idea to wait for the new GPU generation to come out at this point, though. The cards we're recommending are based on years-old tech...
Hey guys can you review this build
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($87.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 USB3.0 ATX Mid Tower Case ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1335.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 10:50 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($87.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 USB3.0 ATX Mid Tower Case ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1335.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 10:50 EDT-0400
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Next time, use the BBCode Markup option offered in the same page as the list you've created.
DDR4-3200 is conditional and some CPUs and/or motherboards (especially motherboards that aren't as over-engineered as the top-end ones) may not work properly with it. Given than DDR4-3000 is still much faster than the baseline DDR4-2133, I strongly suggest dropping down to a DDR4-3000 kit, as it's likely it'll produce less hassle, have a very slight performance difference, and saves a little bit of cash.
I really am not feeling the Gigabyte motherboard, though mostly on a firmware basis. If you don't want to deal with Gigabyte firmware but keep a Z170 chipset, this is my choice.
We'll be taking off some cash from the SSD, too. The 850 EVO is a very nice mainstream SSD, but, really, pretty much every modern SSD that doesn't have reliability issues will do very well as a boot/app device. In the real world, they just work nicely. I've personally put in the HyperX Fury, as it should be somewhat cheaper upfront compared to the 850 EVO, and that's what I'm using right now in my desktop.
Also consider the R9 390 equivalents from the AMD aisle. What do you value more, more performance in absolute terms, or more performance per watt/heat dispensed out of the card, into the case, and by proxy, the room? I'll admit, with regard to driver quality, they're now both toss-ups. NVIDIA has never given me any trouble yet, though, and long-term support-wise (OS compatibility), NVIDIA is still supporting cards a decade old. No, really, You can find Windows 10 drivers for their DX10 cards right now.
I have heard a lot of bad things about the PSU you've picked, at least with regard to this thread. I'm not sure what kind of PSU would best fit your needs in terms of longevity (it seems like power supplies are far more likely to work well late into their lifespans if you're in a 230VAC country, but you're not), Changed it into an RM650x, which should be significantly better in quality and support.
No comment on the monitor (I don't compare them).
That mouse is probably one of the best you can buy. Keep it!
Might as well as "downgrade/upgrade" into a Corsair 200R non-windowed version. I'm not a fan of the look the CM HAF case has... it's a bit... in your face.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($90.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1285.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 10:21 EDT-0400
Here we go! Remember that some things are a matter of taste - change things as you see fit. You can certainly change the case if you prefer something more loud! (Oh, and the budget leeway affords you enough to buy the best cases around.)
Since we have managed to enable a lot of budget leeway by changing components to things that make more sense, do consider if you might benefit from features a more expensive Z170 motherboard might provide, or a 2TB HDD. (I don't think that spending too much on the SSD is worth it if you have auxiliary storage.)
I wonder if I could sell my current PC minus the gpu (because it's dying and I'm not a bastard.)
It's a 2500k but maybe selling it with the case and motherboard and everything...surely there are people somewhere willing to throw a few hundred bucks for that.
Time to upgrade is soon anyway.
It's a 2500k but maybe selling it with the case and motherboard and everything...surely there are people somewhere willing to throw a few hundred bucks for that.
Time to upgrade is soon anyway.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Yeah, selling it is an option if you don't need a secondary PC. (Make sure to clean it up as much as you can...)
Thinking of doing a whole new rig, no old parts, when Pascal and/or Polaris show up?
Yeah cleaning it will probably be the hardest part :lol:
I'm not sure what to do, someone wanted to gift me a ps4 and uncharted 4 for my birthday, but as nice and tempting an offer as it is, I feel it would be kinda wasting money since price will probably go down after e3.
After looking a bit I found that I could buy a recent cpu/motherboard and RAM for roughly the same amount of money. I could ride my old GTX 660 at least until the new card is released, it still gets the job done.
I'd just have to buy a new windows.
It's more of an opportunity to refresh everything than an immediate need, so I'm undecided and will probably just kindly refuse. After all it's an expensive gift no matter what I choose.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
I believe in spending more on the motherboard to get better features, up to and including significantly better integrated fan controls. I believe that at the $120+ price range, full DC and PWM control over CPU and case fans should be standard, so you can have your computer be exactly as loud or quiet as you want them to be. Try looking at the Asus Z170 Pro Gaming and MSI Z170A Gaming M5 for examples with robust fan controls, at least. Avoid the cheap boards, and you'll be fine in this regard.
I don't have any recommendations for cases with sound dampening, sorry! But really, with a good motherboard, CPU fan, and GPU cooler solution, pretty much every system can be quiet, unless you're very sensitive. (Make sure your GPU is decent enough to have a fans-off mode.)
Buying the retail version of Windows 10 would save a lot of hassle with licence transfers - in the future, you'll be able to reuse the same licence across different computers, just needing to make sure that only one PC is actively using the licence.
Any budget for everything?
Smooth Operator
Member
Hey fellow PC gamers, i have a question for you :
Right now i'm rocking an Intel Core I5 2500K (stock), a GTX670, 8GB of Ram and a 160$~ PC Monitor (Asus VX238H, LED)
I want to buy something new for the release of Overwatch but i'm not sure about what would be the most logical thing to get :
- A GTX970 ? Overwatch is running well on my computer, but it could be great for my other games (SFV, Dark Souls 3, Hearthstone lol)
- A new proc ? Not really sure about that, i can't OC my 2500k because i had freezes everytime i did, but it looks like it's still running fine.
- A new 144hz PC Monitor ? Right now my monitor is a 60hz one, and i'd really love to play @ 144hz (for Overwatch, UT4, Lawbreakers...), but will my GTX670 be enough for that ?
I know it's a weird question but i have a hard time to decide on what should i get...
Thanks !
Right now i'm rocking an Intel Core I5 2500K (stock), a GTX670, 8GB of Ram and a 160$~ PC Monitor (Asus VX238H, LED)
I want to buy something new for the release of Overwatch but i'm not sure about what would be the most logical thing to get :
- A GTX970 ? Overwatch is running well on my computer, but it could be great for my other games (SFV, Dark Souls 3, Hearthstone lol)
- A new proc ? Not really sure about that, i can't OC my 2500k because i had freezes everytime i did, but it looks like it's still running fine.
- A new 144hz PC Monitor ? Right now my monitor is a 60hz one, and i'd really love to play @ 144hz (for Overwatch, UT4, Lawbreakers...), but will my GTX670 be enough for that ?
I know it's a weird question but i have a hard time to decide on what should i get...
Thanks !
As someone with a 2600K (recently overclocked, mildly) who just upgraded from a GTX 770 to a 970 ... that's what my recommendation would be. The 670 won't be enough to push those games to 144hz without serious graphical compromises (if at all), so buying a 144hz monitor wouldn't do you much good. Unless it's a purchase for the future, but then why not buy a 144hz monitor after you've upgraded your graphics card further down the line, when there'll be more / newer models available, especially with DisplayPort 1.3 right behind the corner.
Imo, trade the 670 for a used (if that's your thing, it certainly is mine) 970 to minimize spending. It'll carry you for another year at least, at which point it might be time for that big upgrade (CPU + mobo + RAM + graphics card + monitor). That's my plan anyway.
Cute Dragon Here
Member
Are there any differences between a DDR3-1866 CL9 kit pushed up via manual overclocking to the equivalent of a DDR3-2400 CL11 kit that is of the same line (Kingston HyperX Savage), with identical, or tighter primary sub-timings?
I've managed to take the 2x8GB DDR3-1866 CL9 kit I've bought, tweaked settings, and threw in more voltage, and have it successfully boot at DDR3-2400 11-13-13-32 at 1.65V (compared to the "official" version's 1.6V), and preliminary testing appears to indicate that the RAM modules are perfectly happy at such frequency and latencies with IntelBurnTest and one pass of Memtest86 (I intend to let the other three passes continue on - I'm still watching the test run at the moment.)
The RAM passed all four default passes of Memtest86 with flying colours at the default XMP profile of DDR3-1866 CL9, and has no Rowhammer issue, if that's worth anything.
Also, is it safe to maintain an elevated voltage? Setting the voltage to 1.65V turned the voltage indicator option in my motherboard firmware settings (Asus Z97-Pro Gamer) to yellow. Voltages beyond 1.57 turn it yellow, beyond 1.67V turn it purple, and beyond 1.72 red, for information - seems like it's my board's way of telling me how "unsafe" the voltage is.
I've managed to take the 2x8GB DDR3-1866 CL9 kit I've bought, tweaked settings, and threw in more voltage, and have it successfully boot at DDR3-2400 11-13-13-32 at 1.65V (compared to the "official" version's 1.6V), and preliminary testing appears to indicate that the RAM modules are perfectly happy at such frequency and latencies with IntelBurnTest and one pass of Memtest86 (I intend to let the other three passes continue on - I'm still watching the test run at the moment.)
The RAM passed all four default passes of Memtest86 with flying colours at the default XMP profile of DDR3-1866 CL9, and has no Rowhammer issue, if that's worth anything.
Also, is it safe to maintain an elevated voltage? Setting the voltage to 1.65V turned the voltage indicator option in my motherboard firmware settings (Asus Z97-Pro Gamer) to yellow. Voltages beyond 1.57 turn it yellow, beyond 1.67V turn it purple, and beyond 1.72 red, for information - seems like it's my board's way of telling me how "unsafe" the voltage is.
new and hopefully final build thanks to you seems perfect
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-E ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($104.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($69.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Kingston FURY 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($304.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($269.00 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($49.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1303.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-22 14:22 EDT-0400
TheCanisDirus
Member
The motherboard i was going to get doesn't explicitly say it supports the DDR4 3000 ram i'm interested in. The board in question is the Asus Sabertooth Z710S http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-sabertoothz170s
It doesn't make sense to me and i'm pretty sure the site is wrong because why would a Skylake mid-level gaming board that features all the other current speedy connections and pathways not work with DDR4 3000 ram?
Anyone have any idea regarding this? I apologize in advance... PC noob here.
It doesn't make sense to me and i'm pretty sure the site is wrong because why would a Skylake mid-level gaming board that features all the other current speedy connections and pathways not work with DDR4 3000 ram?
Anyone have any idea regarding this? I apologize in advance... PC noob here.
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