Sectorseven
Member
Make sure all your jumpers are correct and you have the molex and cpu connectors inserted properly. Also, you should boot the first time without a graphics card as that just makes diagnosis more complicated if there's a problem.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Make sure all your jumpers are correct and you have the molex and cpu connectors inserted properly. Also, you should boot the first time without a graphics card as that just makes diagnosis more complicated if there's a problem.
Ah ok. Yeah me and a guy on here looked at quite a few benchmarks only showing 1-2fps over 3000 and even 2400 memory. I could find them but it'll take me awhile.
Yeah then drop the spinny one. I would definitely recommend the M.2 over the SATA SSD though. It's a marked improvement in hard drive performance. You plug it in once and forget it, so it doesn't really matter where it goes. You're looking at a 150% increase in speeds over an 850 evo...
Source
The TridentZ (I have the kit) should do 3000Mhz CL14, that will be faster than most 3200Mhz kits that are CL15/16.
M2 will make the build cleaner, so I would consider it.
Hey guys, i'm starting to buy parts for my build. The build itself is a long ways off, but i just wanted to ask what case sales should i be on the lookout for.
Ideally i want a case that is mostly steel and has magnetic filters for it's fans. Should also come with at least 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan and have relatively easy cable management. My absolute budget for the case is <75$, but with sales/rebates i'd ideally like to hit <50$.
So far i have found two cases i'm already watching:
Phanteks P400
Fractal Define S
Ideally i want a case that is mostly steel and has magnetic filters for it's fans. Should also come with at least 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan and have relatively easy cable management. My absolute budget for the case is <75$, but with sales/rebates i'd ideally like to hit <50$.
So far i have found two cases i'm already watching:
Phanteks P400
Fractal Define S
Pagusas
Elden Member
True enough, you two have convinced me (though all the hard drives are mounted behind the motherboard brackets on the otherside of the case, so there isnt much to gain from no having them except one less SATA cable. Still, that speed increase is worht it.
opticalmace
Member
That's a 1440p monitor, not 4k. What's your current system like? You may want to go 1440p instead of 4k, as the latter is pretty hard to drive.
I edit my post to compare to the EVO. And yes, totally worth it. I have an M.2 and it's a screamer, especially if you're doing any large file transfers for video editing.
My Gigabyte mobo mounts the M.2 on the front of the board. GA-Z170X-UD5 TH
SATA and SATA power
Speed increase imo isn't worth it. Normal SSDs are already so fast, that going to an M2 is just a bit faster.
Depends on what operations youll do, if just gaming and boot time, not a real reason to spend more imo.
But I would spend more for less cables - that's just me though.
i-7 4960 @3.6ghz
16gb ram
sli gtx 980
I am thinking about going all in and buy a Titan X Pascal to go along with a new 4k monitor.
Not that I know, I've done 2 skylake builds with Gigabyte boards using the official ISO from MS and using Rufus to make the bootable USB.
So the GPD WIN has got me interested in building my own portable PC/modifying a mini PC to be able to play through my ever-growing Steam backlog in 720p at a reasonable framerate (30 minimum, 60 would be ideal, most demanding game would be Valkyria Chronicles). One that I was looking at was the InFocus Kangaroo due to its relatively cheap price and internal battery, though i'm willing to go up to $350 for the mini PC alone (i.e. the touch screen, controls although I have salvageable parts from a Vita which I could for the controller parts, speakers, adapter, better RAM, etc.).
EDIT: I also found this miniPC for around the same price but with a better CPU. No battery though so that would need to be added.
EDIT: I also found this miniPC for around the same price but with a better CPU. No battery though so that would need to be added.
Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
V1LÆM
Gold Member
Gpu isn't connected to the psu....
Pagusas
Elden Member
This is the room this setup will be going in:
The white should go good against the stand, grey wall and the light effects already going on.
As far as I know, only USB.
opticalmace
Member
I don't think the 750 Ti needs any power other than the PCIe slot.
This is the room this setup will be going in:
The white should go good against the stand, grey wall and the light effects already going on.
Very nice, will be great to see the final build.
I would look at delidding that CPU too. Will make everything cooler and quieter. I doubt you'll hit over 4.5Ghz otherwise.
888
Member
Looking at selling my Asus VN247H-P triple monitor setup with Stand. Since I am not working at home anymore looking to go to just one nice monitor. Trying to decide between Asus ROG PG279Q and 8Q or going 4k Gsync ROG monitor. Currently have a 970 that will be upgraded shortly. I know 4k isn't really ready for mass use for gaming, I wouldn't mind buying one but I don't really want to run 1440p on a 4k monitor.
I am up for suggestions even on other brands. My biggest up in the air thoughts are the following.
16:9 vs 21:9
1440p vs 4k
Gsync vs No Gsync
I am kinda leaning towards a nice 1440p 144hz monitor but I am open to other suggestions.
I am up for suggestions even on other brands. My biggest up in the air thoughts are the following.
16:9 vs 21:9
1440p vs 4k
Gsync vs No Gsync
I am kinda leaning towards a nice 1440p 144hz monitor but I am open to other suggestions.
Avenger54321
Member
Hey guys, I'm going to be building my PC in about a month now, if not mid November, but I'm going to be buying one to three pieces at a time (yes I'm that excited that I want to order my parts asap as I get the money together). I wanted to ask if the GIGABYTE brand is reliable for their GPUs, and how good is their customer service is? I saw that the Gigabyte Radeon Rx 480 G1 Gaming 8GB is in stock on Amazon, and one guy says his didn't work right out the box. This made me nervous since I won't be able to check to see if it works til I get the rest of the parts. Do they make good and reliable cards? Also what's a good gaming monitor for $200-$250?
If it matters my specs will be:
i5-6500 3.2 GHz
8GB of RAM (will add more each month)
Gigabyte RX480 8GB
520W 80+ Bronze
If it matters my specs will be:
i5-6500 3.2 GHz
8GB of RAM (will add more each month)
Gigabyte RX480 8GB
520W 80+ Bronze
Ok, update time (click here for a recap: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=217419977&postcount=10129)
So, when I got home I tried unplugging my front audio port from the motherboard and used my PC for 10 mins. Everything seemed fine. I plugged the front audio port in, and at first everything was working normally (this was surprising). However, after half an hour, it turned to shit again and my PC kept detecting non-existent audio devices being plugged in and removed from the front ports.
Now, as a last ditch effort I tried to uninstall my realtek drivers. But the problem still persists (it's just slightly less visible) because when I click volume control I can intermittently see "Headphones" as an option.
I will re-install the realtek drivers and use my pc with the front audio port disconnected for a while. If the problem is totally gone after hours of use, it seems like I am left with no option but to contact the manufacturer of the case.
It's going to suck having to disassemble and reconstruct my entire PC, just to deal with this audio issue. If I didn't spend a lot of money on this build I wouldn't be so obsessive over something this minor. But everything should just work (and I pray to all gods of every religion that I don't end up re-assembling my entire PC just to find out it was the mobo that is causing headache).
I did such a good job with wire management as well...
If the front panel can be disassembled from the case, the manufacturer will just send the board. That will save you from a complete strip down and build.
I never use the realtek drivers, they are buggy as hell - I do use HDMI audio, so I also have no need for them, but on other builds I don't install them either way.
Its either the board or the case, getting a new front panel assembly will be the quickest way to test.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Agreed, I think every modern issue I've ever had with my builds has been because of realtek drivers. At one point I completed disabled all onboard audio and just shoved an old Xfi into the system, worked well until HDMI became a good stable audio solution via GPUs.
I thought it might be the realtek drivers so I uninstalled, but had the same problems without them.
I might be able to detach the front audio port from the case. It will probably require maneuvering the cable attached to it as well though, it seemed like the board is quite attached to it's cable.
I'll give that a look, and get in touch with the case manufacturer ASAP. That way it will give me time to talk to Gigabyte if everything is still fucked.
BRocknRolla
Member
It sounds like I have very similar problem to you. I never figured out what caused them, and it comes at goes. Sometimes it will be gone for weeks, and then I'll turn on my PC and the sound will be completely broken and crackly. I then restart my computer, sometimes 3 or 4 times, and it goes away. No idea how to fix it.
joecanada
Member
I also have the problem where it randomly detects something plugged and unplugged from realtek drivers.... But I just completely switched PCs so I can't imagine it's hardware ? I was sure it was the drivers
UpsideDownAce
Member
Recently got a CableMod lighting kit for my pc, and I think it turned out great! They're magnetic and super easy to install
Bloodember
Member
Phanteks should just replace that part. I had the front panel of a case broke in shipping and they replaced the panel without issue.
Barrow Roll
Member
Thanks, I guess I'll hold off on adding more RAM until my new mobo/CPU/DDR4 build next year or so.
lostsupper
Banned
Seconded. Everyone should be delidding Skylake, especially in small cases. This tool makes doing so a trivial operation:
http://rockitcool.myshopify.com
Then a little bit of liquid metal and you're golden. Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut or Coollaboratory Pro.
WetPotatoBread
Banned
Hey guys, does anyone know the name of the system monitoring tool that displays your resources on you desktop?
Most people I know use Rainmeter.
Tried using it myself but it was too complex for a simpleton like me.
Inkvoterad
Member
Jesus i have no clue what 1070 to get. Is there a "best" version or is it all just very slight differences in fans and stuff? Currently leaning towards a EVGA.
Yep. Some have a factory applied overclock, but generally they aren't anything you couldn't just do yourself.
Hey guys! Quick question:
So I'm planning to build a PC within the next year. I have a 7 year old system which I did not build myself. A friend did everything for me. This time around I wanna do everything myself, so I'm trying to pick all the parts I can use from the old system.
Does this PSU have a bright future? Or should I just get a new one?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139002&FM=1
So I'm planning to build a PC within the next year. I have a 7 year old system which I did not build myself. A friend did everything for me. This time around I wanna do everything myself, so I'm trying to pick all the parts I can use from the old system.
Does this PSU have a bright future? Or should I just get a new one?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139002&FM=1
Celcius
°Temp. member
So frustrated.
Today I bought an Asus PG27AQ monitor ($900) and had really been looking forward to it. 4K, IPS, G-sync, etc... and when I first turned it on and did some simple web browsing it looked amazing. Then I decide to load up a game and while it's loading the screen goes black... While the screen is black I see the back light bleed.
I've returned it to the store and may now be on my current 1080p 23" monitor for a long time methinks. This is actually the 2nd asus 4k monitor I've returned this year due to back light bleed. I know I'm not crazy, as at work we have tons of Dell P2715Q (4k & IPS, but no gsync) monitors and none of them have noticeable backlight bleed even on dark backgrounds and even my current ancient Asus monitor doesn't. Since 27"+ monitor boxes are so big and heavy (the box handle snapped when I first tried to pick it up lol), I don't feel like going through the hassle of trying the panel lottery again (at least for now). Is so much backlight bleed consider acceptable on gaming monitors these days? Ugh.
Today I bought an Asus PG27AQ monitor ($900) and had really been looking forward to it. 4K, IPS, G-sync, etc... and when I first turned it on and did some simple web browsing it looked amazing. Then I decide to load up a game and while it's loading the screen goes black... While the screen is black I see the back light bleed.
I've returned it to the store and may now be on my current 1080p 23" monitor for a long time methinks. This is actually the 2nd asus 4k monitor I've returned this year due to back light bleed. I know I'm not crazy, as at work we have tons of Dell P2715Q (4k & IPS, but no gsync) monitors and none of them have noticeable backlight bleed even on dark backgrounds and even my current ancient Asus monitor doesn't. Since 27"+ monitor boxes are so big and heavy (the box handle snapped when I first tried to pick it up lol), I don't feel like going through the hassle of trying the panel lottery again (at least for now). Is so much backlight bleed consider acceptable on gaming monitors these days? Ugh.
Bloodember
Member
If that's the PSU that's been in your system for 7 years, replace it when you build a new system.
Beer Monkey
Member
I'm looking to add virtual 5.1 (or 7.1) headphone surround to one of my PCs (i7-3770k and GTX 1060). HRTFs. This PC is run through a receiver and plasma via HDMI, but that doesn't give me surround (nor do I care, as this room doesn't have surround speakers nor the room for them). Is there a software only solution for this (aka virtual sound card that does Dolby Headphone or something similar)? For OpenAL? For EAX?
Or is the best route to add a sound card?
I have a 2007 X-Fi Titanium that I found in a dusty old box of parts in my closet (this one). Should I just use that? Would W10 drivers even work with it? Edit: It appears so.
I haven't used a sound card in like six years and I'm not up to speed on that scene at all, but I really want some headphone surround for hopefully, most games that can output surround.
Or is the best route to add a sound card?
I have a 2007 X-Fi Titanium that I found in a dusty old box of parts in my closet (this one). Should I just use that? Would W10 drivers even work with it? Edit: It appears so.
I haven't used a sound card in like six years and I'm not up to speed on that scene at all, but I really want some headphone surround for hopefully, most games that can output surround.
fast_taker
Member
I can see that most tower suggestions are midi towers but full towers provide better air flow etc. What is your suggestion guys? Thanks
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Full towers don't have an inherent airflow benefit. If anything they are more likely to end up with hotspots with poor airflow due to their size. Airflow depends on the design of the case and the fan layout, it's entirely possible for a mITX or mATX case to have just as good or better airflow than a larger mid tower or full tower.
In all honesty, there is no true "best" version. Almost all of them are practically identical in noise, temperature, power usage and speed. Pick the one you like the look of most or has the features or warranty you like at a price point that suits you.
Just avoid the Founder's Edition really.
InquisitorAles
Member
Hi guys. I'm planing to update my GPU from GTX 770 4gb to GTX 1070 8gb. Is it worth updating if i have i5-3570K CPU? Should i change whole rig or GPU will be enough to update? I'm currently playing on 1080p screen, but also planing to buy 4K monitor next year.
After delidding, everything goes back to normal when installing the CPU cooler? Just drop the CPU into the motherboard, add some paste and put the cooler on top?
lostsupper
Banned
Steps in order:
1. Pop off IHS.
2. Remove old TIM and adhesive.
3. Apply liquid metal to die.
4. Put cpu in socket.
5. Place IHS on cpu, use socket clamp to hold in place.
Then install the cooler like normal. The whole thing takes half an hour.
Bloodember
Member
You should be fine for awhile yet. You should overclock that CPU though.
Okay, since I didn't get a response, i'll try asking a more specific question:
I'm interested in building a handheld/slightly-thicker-than-a-tablet-size PC for playing games in 720/1080 on the go (rough build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/2VCpBP) and was wondering about powering such a device with a rechargeable battery. Would this be possible and if so, what battery could be used (I found this one for about $25 but I don't know if it would be powerful enough to run such a device for 2-3 hours plus the screen)? As a follow-up, would it be possible to solder button inputs to the motherboard? Budget is $1,000 but i'm willing to spend a bit more efficient components.
I'm interested in building a handheld/slightly-thicker-than-a-tablet-size PC for playing games in 720/1080 on the go (rough build: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/2VCpBP) and was wondering about powering such a device with a rechargeable battery. Would this be possible and if so, what battery could be used (I found this one for about $25 but I don't know if it would be powerful enough to run such a device for 2-3 hours plus the screen)? As a follow-up, would it be possible to solder button inputs to the motherboard? Budget is $1,000 but i'm willing to spend a bit more efficient components.
My current setup:
HTPC (living room): i3-2100t, 4gb RAM
Desktop (Office): i5-2500k, 8gb RAM, Geforce 960 4gb
My plan is to shift my gaming to the living room and thus I already moved the 960 into the HTPC.
But obviously the CPU is way to weak for a good 1080p experience.
I had the idea to upgrade the HTPC rig to Skylake for around 500, incl. CPU, RAM, board and case. Would keep everything else.
But then I thought about it and now I am considering to buy an used i5 3570k for 100 or so, upgrade the RAM to 16gb und perhaps buy an 1060 later and it would also sum up to 500. (would still buy the new case)
What do you guys think?
The HTPC would be used mainly as Kodi machine + gaming, so I want it near silent for the Kodi time.
Will the lower consumption of skylake make a real difference there?
Thanks!
HTPC (living room): i3-2100t, 4gb RAM
Desktop (Office): i5-2500k, 8gb RAM, Geforce 960 4gb
My plan is to shift my gaming to the living room and thus I already moved the 960 into the HTPC.
But obviously the CPU is way to weak for a good 1080p experience.
I had the idea to upgrade the HTPC rig to Skylake for around 500, incl. CPU, RAM, board and case. Would keep everything else.
But then I thought about it and now I am considering to buy an used i5 3570k for 100 or so, upgrade the RAM to 16gb und perhaps buy an 1060 later and it would also sum up to 500. (would still buy the new case)
What do you guys think?
The HTPC would be used mainly as Kodi machine + gaming, so I want it near silent for the Kodi time.
Will the lower consumption of skylake make a real difference there?
Thanks!
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