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[Bloodember]

Will do thanks again.

Also, is there a discernible different between Western Digital Blue and Black HDDs? Are the Black models worth the extra cash?

Yes, blues are 5400rpm and the blacks are 7200rpm. Plus you get more cache. Imo the blacks are worth every penny, they are the fastest platter drive on the market. I use a 4tb black for games that I don't put on a ssd.

Edit: looks like some blues are 7200rpm so the only difference is the cache size, I believe.

 

[J_Viper]

Yes, blues are 5400rpm and the blacks are 7200rpm. Plus you get more cache. Imo the blacks are worth every penny, they are the fastest platter drive on the market. I use a 4tb black for games that I don't put on a ssd.

Edit: looks like some blues are 7200rpm so the only difference is the cache size, I believe.

Thanks!

 

[LilJoka]

Thanks!

Both Blue and Blacks are available in 7200rpm.
The black drives just have a bit more performance, slightly louder too.
Its WD Green you want to avoid.

Id be looking at the Toshiba ACA drives.

 

[ParityBit]

I have a windows 10 question. I logged in with my MS account to get windows activated, but I do not want to have to put in my stupid password everytime on my machine. How do I make it so I either unlink my account to my machine (I would rather do, with admin rights) or change my local password without screwing with my MS account?

 

[paperspace]

Its WD Green you want to avoid.

How come? What about WD Red?

 

[z3phon]

For those of you using M.2 drives like a Samsung 950/960 Pro, has heat been an issue? (the ssd throttling if it gets too hot)
Would you be better off with a Sata3 drive instead of an M.2 drive if you plan on using a videocard with a non-reference cooler that dumps heat into the case?

My 950 M.2 sits around 40c most of the time. Haven't really had any issues with throttling so far.

 

[Afrodium]

I'm putting together my first build today and when I try to boot it up it turns on for 5-10 seconds (fans spin, Mobo and power LED light up) without going to BIOS and then it shuts off. It will then attempt to boot again and cycle between posting on and off until I shut off the PSU. I've take it apart and have the motherboard, CPU, power supply, and power switch for the case connected and it's still doing it. I've done a paperclip test on the PSU and it works. Is there anything else I can try? Does it sound like the Mobo or CPU is the issue?

 

[LilJoka]

How come? What about WD Red?

Because Green is 5400rpm and that will have noticeable impact on loading times. Plus Greens die from excessive head parking as they are power conservative.
Red is fine also. Red is basically Blue-Black with an extra RAID function enabled in the firmware, plus better QA and warranty.

I'm putting together my first build today and when I try to boot it up it turns on for 5-10 seconds (fans spin, Mobo and power LED light up) without going to BIOS and then it shuts off. It will then attempt to boot again and cycle between posting on and off until I shut off the PSU. I've take it apart and have the motherboard, CPU, power supply, and power switch for the case connected and it's still doing it. I've done a paperclip test on the PSU and it works. Is there anything else I can try? Does it sound like the Mobo or CPU is the issue?

Sounds like RAM. Use 1 stick of RAM only to test.

 

[Afrodium]

Sounds like RAM. Use 1 stick of RAM only to test.

I've tried that. I'm currently testing with just CPU, Motherboard, and PSU and the issue remains.

 

[knitoe]

I've tried that. I'm currently testing with just CPU, Motherboard, and PSU and the issue remains.

Try clearing the CMOS. If that fails, it's probably a bad MB.

 

[Bloodember]

I've tried that. I'm currently testing with just CPU, Motherboard, and PSU and the issue remains.

What motherboard is it? If its an asrock they will reboot three of four times on first boot.

 

[Afrodium]

I fixed it my problem but I'm really not sure how. As I was cleaning up I figured the best place to store my Mobo, CPU, and heat sink was the case, so I reinstalled it and then hooked up the PSU for I've final test and it stayed on! I hooked up the GPU and got to the BIOS and now I'm about to install Windows.

 

[chaosblade]

How come? What about WD Red?

WD drives:

Blue - standard drive. All-around fine.
Black - high end drive. Noisier, warmer, but performs best.
Red - array focused drive. Fine for normal use.
Green - aggressively low power drive. Only use for things like backups.
Purple - surveillance drive. Specialty drive that sacrifices error correction for faster, continuous writing.

 

[CazTGG]

WD drives:

Blue - standard drive. All-around fine.
Black - high end drive. Noisier, warmer, but performs best.
Red - array focused drive. Fine for normal use.
Green - aggressively low power drive. Only use for things like backups.
Purple - surveillance drive. Specialty drive that sacrifices error correction for faster, continuous writing.

What about WD Gold?

 

[BraXzy]

I'm getting some weird issues in Battlefield 1 on my new rig. I've got a GTX 1080 and my FPS at 1080p Ultra is dipping (frequently) to sub 60 fps...

I'm definitely on the latest drivers and all that jazz. What should I be doing to troubleshoot? Because that's not right... right?

 

[knitoe]

I'm getting some weird issues in Battlefield 1 on my new rig. I've got a GTX 1080 and my FPS at 1080p Ultra is dipping (frequently) to sub 60 fps...

I'm definitely on the latest drivers and all that jazz. What should I be doing to troubleshoot? Because that's not right... right?

Could be CPU bottleneck. Use a ingame monitoring software, like MSI afterburner, and see what your CPU / GPU usages are when your fps drops.

 

[Zeyphersan]

Reposting my question from the Steam thread:

Figured some of you might know: the official Microsoft support page for the Xbox one controllers with Bluetooth says that only one at a time is supported, but you can connect more and they may work. That seems super vague to me, can I use two or more at once through Bluetooth or do I really need that wireless adapter thing?

 

[Joco]

So I got the Asus PG248Q, but right away something felt off about the monitor. The image quality looked more pixelated than my BenQ, even though they both are the same resolution. Not sure if I got a lemon but I decided I'll just return it tomorrow and stick with my current monitor for longer.

 

[Sickbean]

Guys, can anyone help me with this infuriating problem - originally this was only happening with Dirt Rally but now it seems to be happening in Project Cars too so I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my setup -

I'm running the games on an i5-6600 and 1070 on a G Sync monitor at 1440p and getting around 120fps mostly.

The problem is that occasionally (especially in corners for some reason) the frame rate drops to below 20fps for a second, which obviously causes me to crash and ruins my run.

Any suggestions? I've tried capping to 100fps with RTSS and this seems to help a bit, but doesn't eradicate it.

I've tried running the games from 2 separate SSDs - one Samsung 950 pro M.2 and one Corsair MX300, same issue.

Help much appreciated!

 

[Joco]

So roughly six months since I had to practically rebuild my entire PC trying to fix blue screen of death errors, for the past few weeks now I've had an issue with some kind of stuttering (or at least I think that's the word for it). I mostly play League of Legends, which isn't a very demanding game, but the problem is driving me crazy as it really negatively impacts the experience playing League and any game for that matter. The only time I really don't notice it is on the desktop or browsing the web. I included a short video of the issue. Keep an eye around the text, especially after the 20s mark. The whole game feels choppy, but it's most obvious by looking at my username.

Video of the problem

I'm not entirely sure if it's a hardware or software issue, but all of my drivers are up to date. Things I've done with no success in fixing the problem include:

-Replacing my EVGA 970 with an Asus 1070.
-Trying a different monitor to see if that was the issue (it wasn't)
-Doing a completely fresh install of Windows 10 on a new SSD
-Replaced the DVI cable connecting the graphics card to the monitor
-Messed around with multiple configurations in the League of Legends settings - with vsync on and off, framerate capped and uncapped, etc... nothing seems to make a difference
-Ran memtest to check if the RAM was throwing errors (it wasn't)

Things I am considering doing (although am unsure which of these would be worth trying, please help me here):
-Buying new RAM anyway to see if that helps anything
-Replace the power supply? I've read failing PSUs can be a source of microstutter
-Replace the motherboard? (although I don't know how likely this would be the cause of the problem, I feel I would be seeing a lot more problems if there was an issue with this)
-Replace the case? Maybe a connection somewhere has gone bad?
-Replace the CPU? Again, I don't feel like this is a likely cause, but I've read in rare causes it can be. Temps and everything seem good while running though.

I would much appreciate any help with this.

My build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($220.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.95 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.78 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($325.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1513.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-04 02:50 EST-0500

 

[LilJoka]

I've tried that. I'm currently testing with just CPU, Motherboard, and PSU and the issue remains.

You cannot boot the PC without RAM.
Test different slots with different modules.

Make sure 8 pin CPU power and 24 pin ATX power are plugged into the board.

Check your case or motherboard accessories for a speaker. If you find one, connect to the motherboard and a beep code will help diagnose.

Check the motherboard manual for motherboard LED status to help diagnose.

 

[Systolique]

Hello guys, I'm looking to know if a 300 to 500€ PC build is feasible including buying a monitor (I have an old LE26R51B Samsung but I have no idea if it can be used or would be a good idea to use at all) !

• Your Current Specs: None, starting from scratch (I have a macbook pro for work, and a PS4 for gaming)
• Budget: from 300 to 500€, France
• Main Use + specific games: Main use and specific games would be to play Overwatch - and maybe some older games like Dark Souls -, I wouldn't mind playing on medium or low specs at all, as long as it runs at locked 60fps.
• Monitor Resolution: In need of buying a monitor
• When will you build?: Not urgent
• Will you be overclocking?: I have zero knowledge on overclocking

If someone knows if a build like that is doable please tell me,

Thanks for your time !

Edit : I already have a mouse, but would be in need of a flat keyboard !

 

[LilJoka]

I have a windows 10 question. I logged in with my MS account to get windows activated, but I do not want to have to put in my stupid password everytime on my machine. How do I make it so I either unlink my account to my machine (I would rather do, with admin rights) or change my local password without screwing with my MS account?

Settings
Accounts
Choose to remove your personal account
It'll revert to local account
Then you can login to apps on a per app basis

 

[Systolique]

Alright I tried to make a build myself, but I'm not very into PC components so I don't know if it could be a good build or not : https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/qmZD7h

As mentioned above, I'd only be trying to play Overwatch and some older games at locked 60fps, wouldn't matter if game settings were set to medium or low.

 

[opticalmace]

Guys, can anyone help me with this infuriating problem - originally this was only happening with Dirt Rally but now it seems to be happening in Project Cars too so I'm wondering if there's something wrong with my setup -

I'm running the games on an i5-6600 and 1070 on a G Sync monitor at 1440p and getting around 120fps mostly.

The problem is that occasionally (especially in corners for some reason) the frame rate drops to below 20fps for a second, which obviously causes me to crash and ruins my run.

Any suggestions? I've tried capping to 100fps with RTSS and this seems to help a bit, but doesn't eradicate it.

I've tried running the games from 2 separate SSDs - one Samsung 950 pro M.2 and one Corsair MX300, same issue.

Help much appreciated!

Try changing your graphics driver. Also I would install msi afterburner and look at the logs to see if something is misbehaving (overheating, dropping in clock speed, etc.).

 

[ParityBit]

Try changing your graphics driver. Also I would install msi afterburner and look at the logs to see if something is misbehaving (overheating, dropping in clock speed, etc.).

I just picked up a MSI card. I did not install anything except the normal nVidia Experience thing. Should I install the MSI apps from the disc that came with it? Do I want both nVidia exp and the MSI stuff? I hate cruft!

 

[Sword Of Doom]

All SSD system is a beautiful thing. Feel like there's finally peace and quiet

 

[iamblades]

Alright I tried to make a build myself, but I'm not very into PC components so I don't know if it could be a good build or not : https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/qmZD7h

As mentioned above, I'd only be trying to play Overwatch and some older games at locked 60fps, wouldn't matter if game settings were set to medium or low.

That is plenty for Overwatch. 120 GB isn't enough storage at all, but maybe you aren't including a storage drive that you already have.

Depending on the price difference where you are maybe step up to the 1050 ti. If it's 20+ euros more, then the 460 is fine, but if they are similarly priced, I'd get the 1050 ti.

 

[iamblades]

So roughly six months since I had to practically rebuild my entire PC trying to fix blue screen of death errors, for the past few weeks now I've had an issue with some kind of stuttering (or at least I think that's the word for it). I mostly play League of Legends, which isn't a very demanding game, but the problem is driving me crazy as it really negatively impacts the experience playing League and any game for that matter. The only time I really don't notice it is on the desktop or browsing the web. I included a short video of the issue. Keep an eye around the text, especially after the 20s mark. The whole game feels choppy, but it's most obvious by looking at my username.

Video of the problem

I'm not entirely sure if it's a hardware or software issue, but all of my drivers are up to date. Things I've done with no success in fixing the problem include:

-Replacing my EVGA 970 with an Asus 1070.
-Trying a different monitor to see if that was the issue (it wasn't)
-Doing a completely fresh install of Windows 10 on a new SSD
-Replaced the DVI cable connecting the graphics card to the monitor
-Messed around with multiple configurations in the League of Legends settings - with vsync on and off, framerate capped and uncapped, etc... nothing seems to make a difference
-Ran memtest to check if the RAM was throwing errors (it wasn't)

Things I am considering doing (although am unsure which of these would be worth trying, please help me here):
-Buying new RAM anyway to see if that helps anything
-Replace the power supply? I've read failing PSUs can be a source of microstutter
-Replace the motherboard? (although I don't know how likely this would be the cause of the problem, I feel I would be seeing a lot more problems if there was an issue with this)
-Replace the case? Maybe a connection somewhere has gone bad?
-Replace the CPU? Again, I don't feel like this is a likely cause, but I've read in rare causes it can be. Temps and everything seem good while running though.

I would much appreciate any help with this.

My build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($220.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.95 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.78 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($325.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1513.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-04 02:50 EST-0500

Odd issue. It shouldn't be a hardware issue given what you've listed(though it's worth loading up HWmonitor or something and verifying your voltages are good coming from the PSU, just in case.

Background programs like f.lux have been known to cause similar issues, but considering you mentioned a clean reinstall, I don't think that's the issue.

Last option:

Open Nvidia control panel, go to manage 3d settings. Find the 'maximum prerendered frames' option and set it to 1.

 

[Systolique]

That is plenty for Overwatch. 120 GB isn't enough storage at all, but maybe you aren't including a storage drive that you already have.

Depending on the price difference where you are maybe step up to the 1050 ti. If it's 20+ euros more, then the 460 is fine, but if they are similarly priced, I'd get the 1050 ti.

Thank you for the feedback !

I've realised I've had a lot more room to push prices a bit so I've made another run at it :
(french website)

Intel Core i3-4170 (3.7 GHz): 127.50 €
MSI H81M-E34: 54.90 €
Kingston ValueRAM, 8 Go, 1333 MHz, CAS 9: 54.90 €
iSapphire Radeon RX 460 OC (UEFI), 2 Go: 104.90 €
Western Digital Caviar Blue, 1 To: 56.90 €
Zalman Z11 Plus : 69.90 €
Corsair VS550, 550W: 52.80 €

This would bring me at 521,80€, do you see anything I should change up?
I've switched the 120go SSD for a regular 1To drive, but as for the GPU the first 1050ti is already at 35€ more, what I've been told is that they pretty much do the same so I think I won't mind sticking to the lower priced RX 460

Edit : one thing I have no clue about is the power supply ; is it enough, is it too much?

 

[LilJoka]

So roughly six months since I had to practically rebuild my entire PC trying to fix blue screen of death errors, for the past few weeks now I've had an issue with some kind of stuttering (or at least I think that's the word for it). I mostly play League of Legends, which isn't a very demanding game, but the problem is driving me crazy as it really negatively impacts the experience playing League and any game for that matter. The only time I really don't notice it is on the desktop or browsing the web. I included a short video of the issue. Keep an eye around the text, especially after the 20s mark. The whole game feels choppy, but it's most obvious by looking at my username.

Video of the problem

I'm not entirely sure if it's a hardware or software issue, but all of my drivers are up to date. Things I've done with no success in fixing the problem include:

-Replacing my EVGA 970 with an Asus 1070.
-Trying a different monitor to see if that was the issue (it wasn't)
-Doing a completely fresh install of Windows 10 on a new SSD
-Replaced the DVI cable connecting the graphics card to the monitor
-Messed around with multiple configurations in the League of Legends settings - with vsync on and off, framerate capped and uncapped, etc... nothing seems to make a difference
-Ran memtest to check if the RAM was throwing errors (it wasn't)

Things I am considering doing (although am unsure which of these would be worth trying, please help me here):
-Buying new RAM anyway to see if that helps anything
-Replace the power supply? I've read failing PSUs can be a source of microstutter
-Replace the motherboard? (although I don't know how likely this would be the cause of the problem, I feel I would be seeing a lot more problems if there was an issue with this)
-Replace the case? Maybe a connection somewhere has gone bad?
-Replace the CPU? Again, I don't feel like this is a likely cause, but I've read in rare causes it can be. Temps and everything seem good while running though.

I would much appreciate any help with this.

My build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($220.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.95 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($94.78 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($325.00 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1513.03
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-04 02:50 EST-0500

Id like to get an MSI Afberburner trace of this.
In MSI AB select to record GPU core freq, GPU mem freq, CPU freq, FPS, Frametimes, GPU temp, CPU temp, CPU usage. Log at 100ms interval. Enable log to file.

Record some footage where the issue occurs and share the log file here.

Drop the RAM Freq to stock 2133Mhz - disable XMP. Memtest will show dead ram, not incorrectly configured ram.

I do not suspect the PSU/CPU/Mobo.

Video looks like some weird vsync bug.

Do you have weird behavior in other games?

 

[iamblades]

Thank you for the feedback !

I've realised I've had a lot more room to push prices a bit so I've made another run at it :
(french website)

Intel Core i3-4170 (3.7 GHz): 127.50 €
MSI H81M-E34: 54.90 €
Kingston ValueRAM, 8 Go, 1333 MHz, CAS 9: 54.90 €
iSapphire Radeon RX 460 OC (UEFI), 2 Go: 104.90 €
Western Digital Caviar Blue, 1 To: 56.90 €
Zalman Z11 Plus : 69.90 €
Corsair VS550, 550W: 52.80 €

This would bring me at 521,80€, do you see anything I should change up?
I've switched the 120go SSD for a regular 1To drive, but as for the GPU the first 1050ti is already at 35€ more, what I've been told is that they pretty much do the same so I think I won't mind sticking to the lower priced RX 460

Edit : one thing I have no clue about is the power supply ; is it enough, is it too much?

550 W is way more than you would need for that hardware certainly. I'd probably see if I could get a 400-450W semi modular PSU instead, just to make cable management a bit neater.

There are way better case options than that Zalman case in that price range also. I'd look at NZXT S340, Corsair R200, Fractal Design Define S, Deepcool Dukase, etc. NZXT source 210 if you must go ultra budget.

Like I said, if the 460 is more than 10-20 cheaper, get it every time. the 1050 is definitely not a great value if its a 35 euro premium.

 

[Slayven]

Is there a software tool you can run that will let you know if your motherboard and power supply are compatible with a new card?

 

[opticalmace]

Is there a software tool you can run that will let you know if your motherboard and power supply are compatible with a new card?

Post up here and we'll tell you.

 

[rtcn63]

I've got a 1060, core i5 at 4GHZ, two 2 SSD's and 1 HDD being powered by a 430w Seasonic, no problems yet. The PSU had been trucking with the previous 670 for close to five years.

 

[faint.]

Does anyone have that graph showing raw performance of lots of GPUs from the last few years? I believe it's from Tom's Hardware. Not sure how else to describe it...

 

[Slayven]

Post up here and we'll tell you.

Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8320 Eight-Core Processor (8 CPUs), ~3.5GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM
Card name: AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 (MS-7693)

I want to get one of those new AMD budget cards

 

[iamblades]

Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8320 Eight-Core Processor (8 CPUs), ~3.5GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM
Card name: AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 (MS-7693)

I want to get one of those new AMD budget cards

The 460 I presume?

You will be fine assuming your PSU has a 6 pin PCI-E power connector, which if your current card is the 7770, it does. If it's a lower tier 7700, it probably still does, but I can't tell from the information you've given.

There are 460s that are under 75 W TDP, so they don't require PCI-E power as well. Those will work 100%.

 

[Nostremitus]

Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8320 Eight-Core Processor (8 CPUs), ~3.5GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM
Card name: AMD Radeon HD 7700 Series
Motherboard: MSI 970A-G46 (MS-7693)

I want to get one of those new AMD budget cards

What is your power supply? and by budget, are we talking RX 480/470 or RX 460?

 

[Raw64life]

Finally put together my new build.

Some minor issues while building it (this was only my 3rd time building a PC ever) but everything turned out ok. Freaked out when I first turned it on as it started for 5 seconds and then shut down, but it just turned out that my RAM wasn't pushed in all the way.

Also, I had an SSD and an HDD in there, and for whatever reason Windows turned my 4TB HDD into a 500MB partition so I ended up having to unplug the HDD and reinstalling. Then after that my 4TB was still chopped up and I don't even remember exactly what I fiddled with to get it to work but it's all good now.

Everything runs great so far. And 1440p G-sync is no fucking joke. What an improvement.

 

[Little Old Man]

Can anyone tell me of any flat headed rubber anti vibration fan mounts? I've used noctua ones on the exhaust fan, but those won't work on the intake fans as there's not enough room behind the dust filter (fractal design s).

 

[iamblades]

What is your power supply? and by budget, are we talking RX 480/470 or RX 460?

470/480 are solidly mid-range cards, I wouldn't consider them budget by any definition of the word.

 

[Nostremitus]

470/480 are solidly mid-range cards, I wouldn't consider them budget by any definition of the word.

I agree. I wouldn't either, but there are people who consider them budget cards since they aren't 1070 or 1080 level cards. So, it's always worth asking.

 

[Goroh]

Can you transfer the windows 10 license to a new machine if you upgraded for free from windows 7? Or do you need a new license?

 

[opticalmace]

Can you transfer the windows 10 license to a new machine if you upgraded for free from windows 7? Or do you need a new license?

Pretty sure you can, though you may need to call MS.

 

[Shifty Capone1]

Alright PCGaf, quick question.

Are their any PC Monitors that support HDR10? I have an x34, but would like another monitor to use while playing console exclusives. If I am going to buy another one I figure I need HDR10. Are their any current ones? Is waiting the best thing to do? Thanks!

 

[Celcius]

Some of the best looking RAM I've ever seen: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/domina...z-c14-memory-kit-blackout-cmd32gx4m2c3200c14m
Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition, available in blackout or chrome, limited edition 500 of each will be made, 32GB 3200mhz overclockable to 3600mhz.
$300 though. Plus I use a Noctua NH-D14 so it would interfere with my cooler. But still, dat look!

 

[iamblades]

Some of the best looking RAM I've ever seen: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/domina...z-c14-memory-kit-blackout-cmd32gx4m2c3200c14m
Corsair Dominator Platinum Special Edition, available in blackout or chrome, limited edition 500 of each will be made, 32GB 3200mhz overclockable to 3600mhz.
$300 though. Plus I use a Noctua NH-D14 so it would interfere with my cooler.

I was tempted to get the dominator special edition for my build since it went with the silver motherboard, but I ended up just going with the silver tridentz because it was a third less money for the same performance.

They are shiny though.

 

[QuantumSquid]

That RAM is disgustingly overpriced, they must make a killing on each sale because there's no way it costs anywhere near that much to manufacture.

 

[iamblades]

That RAM is disgustingly overpriced, they must make a killing on each sale because there's no way it costs anywhere near that much to manufacture.

What you mean it doesn't actually cost $100 to polish the heat spreaders?