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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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vanguardian1

poor, homeless and tasteless
Woohoo! Just ordered an XFX Radeon 470 4gb for $179 (before shipping), had to go through amazon because of gift cards, and now I can finally retire my aged Sapphire Radeon 260x. I wonder how well my i5-4690K will work now.... :)
 

Bloodember

Member
For real? This might be my life preserver tomorrow. Play-asia?
I've imported games from them but OS keys? Weird.

edit: okay. this is oem and won't transfer. That the catch? Still seem too good to be true. May use when I cobble back together this crap I'm replacing.
I hope my re-activation works. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Working on a plan. ;)

edit again: plan - looking for feedback.

Going to throw existing sata ssd(OS) into new mobo/proc setup
Clean install win10 and bypass keys
Login to MS account and do new hardware thing.
If that works shut down and put nvme drive and try to install win10 on that.
That borks out buy a fucking windows key ~ from playasia?!

Any holes in that? Holler PC GAF
To get it to transfer just tell Microsoft you had to do a motherboard switch. They'll reactivate the key.
 

Smokey

Member
Looking at something like this for 2017

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6900K 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($999.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($96.99 @ Jet)
Motherboard: Asus X99-DELUXE II ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($396.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($215.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($478.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($599.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)*
Total: $2877.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 04:07 EST-0500

Placeholders for Skylake-X and 1080ti or next Titan variant.

Would reuse my current Air 540 and its fans, RoG Swift, PSU, and some storage. I've 3 hard drives. 1 is HDD and the other 2 are SSDs, one 160GB (from 2011) and the other 750GB (850 evo). Want to completely get rid of mechanical HDD in the next build. Would bring over the 850 evo just for some extra space, and retire the other two drives.

At least this gives me a ball park figure of what to expect, and is an early template. May even go mATX since I don't plan to SLI anymore, but that would also require a new case. Can probably offset some of it by selling off the X79/4930k.

Are there many mATX options for a X99 build, or is the Asus X99-m the "default"?
 

Mahnmut

Member
Hello Gaf,

I got a 27" Iiyama display for Christmas. it's a 1080p Freesync screen. I'll use it for work mostly (I'm a web designer/ dev) since my PC is hooked up to my TV upstairs where I usually play games. I'm thinking about returning it for a 1440p screen of the same brand. What do you think ? Is it still relevant to buy a 1080p screen nowadays ? Thanks in advance
 
Hello Gaf,

I got a 27" Iiyama display for Christmas. it's a 1080p Freesync screen. I'll use it for work mostly (I'm a web designer/ dev) since my PC is hooked up to my TV upstairs where I usually play games. I'm thinking about returning it for a 1440p screen of the same brand. What do you think ? Is it still relevant to buy a 1080p screen nowadays ? Thanks in advance

1080p is still fine. i have one. my PC can mostly handle 1440p 60fps no problem so i just downsample. i did buy two dell u2515h's but the quality was really poor so i returned them. i'm happy to stick with my 1080p monitor for now and until i get a 4K 60hz monitor when i build my next PC and i don't plan on doing that until towards the end of 2018 or maybe early 2019.
 

Mahnmut

Member
1080p is still fine. i have one. my PC can mostly handle 1440p 60fps no problem so i just downsample. i did buy two dell u2515h's but the quality was really poor so i returned them. i'm happy to stick with my 1080p monitor for now and until i get a 4K 60hz monitor when i build my next PC and i don't plan on doing that until towards the end of 2018 or maybe early 2019.

Don't forget it's not meant for gaming. But maybe I could use higher resolution to work with Photoshop and Sketch. Another question : I already have a 27", the goal is to have a dual screen setup. The two screens are hooked to a Macbook Pro, will it be possible to set 2 different resolution (1 screen at 1080p and the other at 1440p) ?
 
Don't forget it's not meant for gaming. But maybe I could use higher resolution to work with Photoshop and Sketch. Another question : I already have a 27", the goal is to have a dual screen setup. The two screens are hooked to a Macbook Pro, will it be possible to set 2 different resolution (1 screen at 1080p and the other at 1440p) ?

1440p would be much better then. 1080p can feel a bit cramped but with 1440p there is so much more room. I actually miss that about the 1440p monitor. the higher pixel density is so nice too.

yeah you should be able to set a separate resolution for each monitor.
 

Enzo_Ferrari

Neo Member
Does anyone recommend the BenQ XL2730? It's about the most I want to spend on a monitor and it is 144hz and 1440p. Mind you I live in Australia where the range isn't quite as good as other countries.
 

Ganondolf

Member
It depends on cooling, the danger zone is at 90°
My sweetspot is 60-65 with liquid aio.

I only have a slimline Noctua cooler as its in a htpc case. On Intel tuning utility when benchmarking it reaches into the 70s which seems high. I silly did a Asus auto tune and now putting everything back to stock to see the temps. If it's still high I will look at changing the fan curve.
 

Deathknell

Member
I only have a slimline Noctua cooler as its in a htpc case. On Intel tuning utility when benchmarking it reaches into the 70s which seems high. I silly did a Asus auto tune and now putting everything back to stock to see the temps. If it's still high I will look at changing the fan curve.

70s on air is perfectly fine don't worry.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Looking at something like this for 2017

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6900K 3.2GHz 8-Core Processor ($999.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($96.99 @ Jet)
Motherboard: Asus X99-DELUXE II ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($396.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($215.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($478.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($599.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($88.58 @ OutletPC)*
Total: $2877.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 04:07 EST-0500

Placeholders for Skylake-X and 1080ti or next Titan variant.

Would reuse my current Air 540 and its fans, RoG Swift, PSU, and some storage. I've 3 hard drives. 1 is HDD and the other 2 are SSDs, one 160GB (from 2011) and the other 750GB (850 evo). Want to completely get rid of mechanical HDD in the next build. Would bring over the 850 evo just for some extra space, and retire the other two drives.

At least this gives me a ball park figure of what to expect, and is an early template. May even go mATX since I don't plan to SLI anymore, but that would also require a new case. Can probably offset some of it by selling off the X79/4930k.

Are there many mATX options for a X99 build, or is the Asus X99-m the "default"?

Sup Smokey
The Samsung 960 Evo 1TB is currently in stock at newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=samsung_960_evo-_-20-147-595-_-Product.
Fyi CES is next week and lots of stuff is rumored to get announced like the GTX 1080 Ti, Kaby Lake CPUs, and Z270 chipset. The founders edition Ti will probably be closer to $1k since the Titan X is $1.2k (we'll see though)
 
I only have a slimline Noctua cooler as its in a htpc case. On Intel tuning utility when benchmarking it reaches into the 70s which seems high. I silly did a Asus auto tune and now putting everything back to stock to see the temps. If it's still high I will look at changing the fan curve.

my i7-6700K hit 75C after about an hour of Prime95 while overclocked to 4.5GHz with my Coolermaster 212X. you'll get higher temps during benchmarks/stress testing. play some games and it should run a lot cooler.

it will of course also depend on your case/amount of fans. i have a fractal design define s with 4x140mm fans.
 

Gandie

Member
Hey guys,

turns out not building a PC for 6 years really makes you fall behind on current technology. I'm looking for a substantial upgrade to my old build in terms of games performance. I'm not reusing any parts of my old build, since I'll be giving it away to a friend of mine. I will keep all peripherals though.


Your Current Specs: 2500k w/o overclock, 750ti, 8 GB of RAM
Budget: 1000-1500 €, Germany
Main Use: Medium to heavy gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p, I want to keep the door open for an upgrade to a higher resolution and VR in a few years.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Battlefield 1, F1 2016, Rocket League :lol, any new games coming out in the future.
Looking to reuse any parts? No internals
Do you have a deadline? No
Will you be overclocking?: Probably not.


Hardest parts for me right now is figuring out which socket to use (Would much prefer intel) and what to look for in a case except for visuals.

CASE: ??? something basic, no windows or flashy lights needed.
CPU: Intel Core i5 6600 4x 3.30GHz So.1151 220 €
CPU COOLER: Coolermaster Hyper 212 30 € (really happy with this one in my old build)
MOTHERBOARD: ??? was happy with the Gigabyte I had.
MEMORY: 16 GB probably?
STORAGE: 250 GB SSD 100 € and a big HDD 70 €
VIDEO CARD: 1060 for 270-350 €
POWER ADAPTER
: ??

Any help is appreciated :)
 

Smokey

Member
Sup Smokey
The Samsung 960 Evo 1TB is currently in stock at newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=samsung_960_evo-_-20-147-595-_-Product.
Fyi CES is next week and lots of stuff is rumored to get announced like the GTX 1080 Ti, Kaby Lake CPUs, and Z270 chipset. The founders edition Ti will probably be closer to $1k since the Titan X is $1.2k (we'll see though)

Hyped for CES. Not buying anything until Skylake-X gets released, this was more to get a rough neighborhood of where I'd be price wise.

Still lurk the thread from time to time, saw that you're getting the 960 Pro from Amazon. What's the rest of your rig?
 

rrs

Member
anyone who has the Zotac GTX1080 Amp that has this problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2P4yDLoeeSo

Not my video but this happened to my GPU on the same right fan. It actually snapped and now I'm left with a broken graphics card which might not be replaced in the warranty.
my Zotac 970 fans used to do that before it stopped working. Anyways, by snapped you mean the card won't work period or just the fan doesn't work? Right now my card is only cooled by a puller case fan about a few inches away from it
 
Today Newegg has the 4 GB R9 380 for $100, after rebate. I was thinking about grabbing it. I've currently got a 3GB 7950 paired with a FX-6300 (it's budget-level, I know).

Would that be worth it? I was reading this reddit post and it almost convinced me it would be.

It wouldn't be the most substantial upgrade from what you've got at the moment, but given the 1050 Ti is forty dollars more at a minimum, it'd be a decent, incremental step.
 

LilJoka

Member
Cheers it worked, pain to fit.

First time build question mark 3:
Have I fucked up?
Are my fan and gpu facing the right way please? http://imgur.com/a/bkymE

Looks fine.
I would get rid of the 2 fans at the top of the case. The one on the top right especially since it will steal cold air for the CPU heatsink.

All you need is 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan here. The other case fans are going to do nothing for cooling, just extra noise.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Hyped for CES. Not buying anything until Skylake-X gets released, this was more to get a rough neighborhood of where I'd be price wise.

Still lurk the thread from time to time, saw that you're getting the 960 Pro from Amazon. What's the rest of your rig?

Currently I've got:
Intel 2600k @ 4.6ghz | Noctua NH-D14 | Asus P8Z68V-Pro GEN3 | 16GB G.Skill RipjawsX 2133mhz DDR3 10-12-12-31 2T 1.6v | 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD | 160GB Intel 320 Series SSD | EVGA 3GB GTX 780 Ti + hi-flow bracket | Seasonic X750 | CaseLabs Merlin SM8 | X-Fi Titanium HD | Samsung SH-222BB | Win 10 Pro 64-bit | Asus VH236H | Creative T40 | 2013 Corsair K70 w/ Cherry MX brown switches | Logitech G400s | Audio Technica AD700

My rig still maxes all my games on my 1080p monitor just fine but as an enthusiast I've got the itch to upgrade and have gotten tired of waiting for the next best thing right around the corner. I'm planning to upgrade my current rig in January and then use my old parts to upgrade my parents' PC (I built it back in the Athlon 64 X2 days lol).

I've already bought another copy of Windows 10 Pro (I like the fact that Pro lets me defer and have more control over updates instead of doing it automatically) and I have a 1TB Samsung 960 Pro pre-ordered on Amazon (hopefully releases Saturday). Then in January I'm planning to grab a 7700k cpu + Asus z270 motherboard + 16GB DDR4.

I may grab a GTX 1080 Ti as soon as they launch but I'm thinking that HDR monitors will get announced at CES and so I don't want to spend a lot now on a 4K IPS Gsync monitor only to have HDR monitors or newer models come out relatively soon after. Additional gpu power would kind of be wasted on my old 1080p 60 hz monitor so I'm putting off the gpu/monitor upgrade until after doing the cpu/motherboard/ram upgrade. Traditionally I always go with a standard blower-style cooler on my GPUs so I've also been thinking about trying a non-blower card this time around to see if it's quieter. (I haven't done SLI since the 8800 GTX and have no plans to do it again so the heat inside the case should be fine)

I considered Broadwell-E but at this point the architecture is too old for my liking (kaby lake is only 4-core but has higher IPC, much higher clocks, and new mobo features). Looking forward to 2017!
 

Gandie

Member
dbKCjBi.png

This is what I came up with so far.
 

Pyrokai

Member
What would you guys recommend for a pre-built PC that meets somewhere between a PS3 and a PS4?

I have no desire to build a PC, and I haven't bought a new PC for over 10 years. I just want a new one that can play PS3-level games at 60fps, pretty much. Who is the best manufacturer out there for this?

What I'm looking for:

  • Can play PS3-level games at 60fps easily
  • Is pre-built
  • Can be expanded to some degree (memory, HDD/SSD...possibly GPU too?)
  • Is a fair price....I'm looking for around $300 unless this just isn't possible

I think that's all. Sorry for being so dumb :(
 

Bloodember

Member
What would you guys recommend for a pre-built PC that meets somewhere between a PS3 and a PS4?

I have no desire to build a PC, and I haven't bought a new PC for over 10 years. I just want a new one that can play PS3-level games at 60fps, pretty much. Who is the best manufacturer out there for this?

What I'm looking for:

  • Can play PS3-level games at 60fps easily
  • Is pre-built
  • Can be expanded to some degree (memory, HDD/SSD...possibly GPU too?)
  • Is a fair price....I'm looking for around $300 unless this just isn't possible

I think that's all. Sorry for being so dumb :(

Your not going to find a computer that can play ps3 level games for $300.
 

Pyrokai

Member
Your not going to find a computer that can play ps3 level games for $300.

O---Oh. Well damn. I guess I'll be a console pleb then, lol. I just want Steam, but I guess I could go PS4 for $250, lol.

But out of curiosity....what about $500? What would that get me? I'm also no including the price of monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc. This would just be for the tower (is that still a term? lol)

Edit: Also, what IF I decided to build instead of buying prebuilt? Would it then be possible to do for $300-$400? Is the reason it's not possible to play 10+ games on a $300 computer simply because I prefaced by saying it needed to be prebuilt?
 

Bloodember

Member
O---Oh. Well damn. I guess I'll be a console pleb then, lol. I just want Steam, but I guess I could go PS4 for $250, lol.

But out of curiosity....what about $500? What would that get me? I'm also no including the price of monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc. This would just be for the tower (is that still a term? lol)

Edit: Also, what IF I decided to build instead of buying prebuilt? Would it then be possible to do for $300-$400? Is the reason it's not possible to play 10+ games on a $300 computer simply because I prefaced by saying it needed to be prebuilt?

Even building $300 won't get you a computer that you want. To build your looking at $500-600 without Keyboard, mouse and Monitor. You could get close to the $500 mark with sales if you can find some.

Edit: You will need at least 8-16GB of RAM.

[url=https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7B84Ps]PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock B150M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($59.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($41.99 @ Jet)
Storage: Mushkin TRIACTOR 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.50 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Video Card ($139.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($25.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $572.43
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 16:52 EST-0500[/URL]

Get your windows key here for $25

You can go a little cheaper, this is just what I would use, case can be anything, I just picked one from a few manufactures I use.

If you go prebuilt you don't know what your getting, and if it can handle a better graphics card without a PSU upgrade. Building a PC isn't hard, everything has it's own slot and can't be put in backwards. The CPU is the only one that needs to be placed right, the manual has that covered, just read the damn thing.
 

luoapp

Member
O---Oh. Well damn. I guess I'll be a console pleb then, lol. I just want Steam, but I guess I could go PS4 for $250, lol.

But out of curiosity....what about $500? What would that get me? I'm also no including the price of monitor, keyboard, mouse, etc. This would just be for the tower (is that still a term? lol)

Edit: Also, what IF I decided to build instead of buying prebuilt? Would it then be possible to do for $300-$400? Is the reason it's not possible to play 10+ games on a $300 computer simply because I prefaced by saying it needed to be prebuilt?

Realistically, you're looking at this guy for $339
http://www.adorama.com/le10ky002bus.html?sdtid=9609592&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62905
Code:
Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz CPU
4GB DDR4 Memory
500GB Hard Drive
Intel HD Graphics 530
4x USB 3.0
2x USB 2.0
1x VGA
1x Display Port
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
+Radeon R9 380 4GB for 100

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16814131703&cm_sp=

Disclaimer: I didn't check their compatibility, and no, self-built won't be better.
 

kennah

Member
Realistically, you're looking at this guy for $339
http://www.adorama.com/le10ky002bus.html?sdtid=9609592&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62905
Code:
Intel Core i5-6400 2.7GHz CPU
4GB DDR4 Memory
500GB Hard Drive
Intel HD Graphics 530
4x USB 3.0
2x USB 2.0
1x VGA
1x Display Port
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
+Radeon R9 380 4GB for 100

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16814131703&cm_sp=

Disclaimer: I didn't check their compatibility, and no, self-built won't be better.
Real hard to fit any video card in that case. It only accepts half height cards.
Never mind the 180w power supply.

If you aren't going to be actually helpful, don't bother cluttering the thread.
 

Smokey

Member
Currently I've got:
Intel 2600k @ 4.6ghz | Noctua NH-D14 | Asus P8Z68V-Pro GEN3 | 16GB G.Skill RipjawsX 2133mhz DDR3 10-12-12-31 2T 1.6v | 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD | 160GB Intel 320 Series SSD | EVGA 3GB GTX 780 Ti + hi-flow bracket | Seasonic X750 | CaseLabs Merlin SM8 | X-Fi Titanium HD | Samsung SH-222BB | Win 10 Pro 64-bit | Asus VH236H | Creative T40 | 2013 Corsair K70 w/ Cherry MX brown switches | Logitech G400s | Audio Technica AD700

My rig still maxes all my games on my 1080p monitor just fine but as an enthusiast I've got the itch to upgrade and have gotten tired of waiting for the next best thing right around the corner. I'm planning to upgrade my current rig in January and then use my old parts to upgrade my parents' PC (I built it back in the Athlon 64 X2 days lol).

I've already bought another copy of Windows 10 Pro (I like the fact that Pro lets me defer and have more control over updates instead of doing it automatically) and I have a 1TB Samsung 960 Pro pre-ordered on Amazon (hopefully releases Saturday). Then in January I'm planning to grab a 7700k cpu + Asus z270 motherboard + 16GB DDR4.

I may grab a GTX 1080 Ti as soon as they launch but I'm thinking that HDR monitors will get announced at CES and so I don't want to spend a lot now on a 4K IPS Gsync monitor only to have HDR monitors or newer models come out relatively soon after. Additional gpu power would kind of be wasted on my old 1080p 60 hz monitor so I'm putting off the gpu/monitor upgrade until after doing the cpu/motherboard/ram upgrade. Traditionally I always go with a standard blower-style cooler on my GPUs so I've also been thinking about trying a non-blower card this time around to see if it's quieter. (I haven't done SLI since the 8800 GTX and have no plans to do it again so the heat inside the case should be fine)

I considered Broadwell-E but at this point the architecture is too old for my liking (kaby lake is only 4-core but has higher IPC, much higher clocks, and new mobo features). Looking forward to 2017!

Good stuff.

I agree about Broadwell-E. It's why I'm not going to build until the next HEDT socket. We're on the backend of X99. When I built my X79 rig, that platform was in the same transitional phase. Don't want to get caught in that again.

But if I'm being honest, my 4930k 6 core @ 4.5ghz is still more than fine. I just want some of the newer mobo features, and if I upgrade I'm not going to make a lateral move to another 6 core.
 

Xyber

Member
Your not going to find a computer that can play ps3 level games for $300.

Not new, no. But if going used isn't off the table, it is certainly possible to find something pretty good for that price with some luck. I got a PC that played PS3/360 games at 60fps (for the most part) for 90€ at the end of 2010 when I just needed something that could run Killing Floor. :p

Sure, while it did come with a Pentium 4, I replaced the motherboard, RAM and CPU for a Q8600 fairly cheaply. The GPU was an ATI 4850, so all-in-all it was a really good price at the time and I had no problems playing newer games back then.

Edit: Just had a quick look at a Swedish site and I found this PC for 400€ within a minute. And it's way above what would be needed for playing last gen games at 60fps.
Intel Core i7 4790K
MSI B85I GAMING
Kingston HyperX Fury 240GB SSD
Corsair Vengeance Blue DDR3 1600MHz CL9 2x4GB
Sapphire Radeon R9 290
Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Cooler Master G650M
 
Question regarding cases and airflow:

I'm getting this case: Dark Base Pro 900 and I've some questions regarding SP an AF fans. So I know that SP fans are more for hooking up to radiators, etc.....but I'm trying to a green theme (LED) and I can only find these LED fans from Thermaltake that are Green: Thermaltake Green LED SP 120...I planned to add 1 on the bottom blowing air up, and then 3 120mm up top blowing air out. Would the SP's really hinder me that much? Or would I be okay? FYI I'm going to be using the Noctua NH-D15 which is humongous as my CPU cooler.
 

Parham

Banned
Looks like my GTX 570 is about to kick the bucket. I'm probably a couple months to a year away from building a new PC, so I'd like to buy a stopgap replacement in the mean time for less than $150. My only requirement is that it run Civ VI and Overwatch as well as the GTX 570 did. It would also be ideal if the card had some combination of 3 DVI and HDMI ports. So far, I've found this card. Are there any better or cheaper alternatives I might be missing?
 

Vipu

Banned
How hard would it be to make G403 wireless more light or would it be even possible?
Like removing some useless things inside it or something (leds etc)
 
Looking to upgrade my PC with an SSD. Seems the Crucial MX300 is offering the best value, I think. What resource do you guys typically use to determine what SSDs to shoot for?
 
my Zotac 970 fans used to do that before it stopped working. Anyways, by snapped you mean the card won't work period or just the fan doesn't work? Right now my card is only cooled by a puller case fan about a few inches away from it

The defective right fan snapped in half like with a couple of fanblades. The card itself still works but it makes this awful noise and vibration when the GPU is under stress.

I guess my only option is to pray the warrantry gets covered.
 
Hey GAF, what are some reliable pci extension cables? and if they exists, that can fit under a GPU

In my Octane rendering Rig I have two non reference GTX 970 packed together with one FE GTX 1070, and I feel the one 970 sandwiched in the middle is too covered and reaches 80° C at full load that it never did before. So I wanted to lower the one under it it in the case ( the reason I can't use the PCIe that is already down there is that my mobo can't with a i7 5820K with only 28 lanes)

So I wanted to do one of these, the third one only if possible.
alghZsG.png

thftH9N.png
 

naib

Member
Was able to use the hardware change option and reactivate win10 on new build. Went super smooth. Never had to interact w/ a human.

Just finished installing new mobo/proc/ram/m2ssd and formatting old ssd now that I'm legit again.
Whew.

Thanks for all the help y'all.

Already did the ninite thing. Now re-downloading all the games I'm eager to test.
Super excited.

Gonna start with Cities Skylines and Crysis. Then do the RB:S benchmarks.

Update: Skylines still runs like shit. But I didn't dick around much.

Monitoring temps and stuff now. I think this cooler and my case need an upgrade..

Prime95 is supposed to peg everything, right? Using open hw monitor and rockets up to 100c pretty fast if I'm reading right. Then throttles?.
idle and d/ling shit about 50.
I need to play a game for awhile I guess.

It was also about 28c ~80f here in ATX today. WTF? We've been running the AC..
 

alazz

Member
Hi, I've got a couple questions regarding a build I'm going to buy at the beginning of January.

CPU: i5-6500
RAM: G.SKILL NT Series 8GB 2133 DDR4
GPU: ?
Motherboard: MSI H110M-Pro-VD
Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB SSD + WD Black 1TB
PSU: Rosewill Capstone G 650W 80+ Gold
Case: Cooler Master N200

First question: I read a while back that some motherboards don't support just a single RAM module, and the motherboard specs say "Dual Channel memory." Is this actually an issue? Or can any modern Dual Channel system also run in single? I'll be buying a second identical stick of RAM in a month or so to hit 16GB as this motherboard only has 2 ram slots. A single module should work without a problem or does that spec mean only Dual Channel mode is functional?

Second: I'll be using a friend's old 650 Ti for the time being but I plan on spending $200-250 for a new GPU soon. Any recommendations between a 480, 1060 and a B-stock EVGA 970? I previously had one of the better b stock 970s with my 2500K and was really pleased with it but I'd guess those newer architecture cards will age better? My goal is 1080 and maybe 120hz down the line for multiplayer games which I'm usually not playing on high any way for a couple years.

I'd appreciate any advice thrown my way :)
 
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